Just curious, what is your spread between the supers and subs at 100 yards with a 30 yard zero? And is it the case where: - They are both hitting above the bullseye at 100 yards? Or-- - The super is hitting above at 100 but the super his hitting below? Or-- - They are both hitting below the bullseye at 100? I'm curious because I just put together a 300 Blk PDW. It'll be for home defense, so I plan to use a close zero (between ~15-25 yards), but I'm not yet sure what the effect is at further ranges.
@@jamesstacey529 Not to answer for him, but I can at least say that it has to be a pistol-length gas system because it's only a 7.5" barrel. The next shortest standard length (at least that I'm aware of) is carbine length, which would align right where this barrel ends (so it wouldn't be possible). I believe you need at least a 10" barrel for carbine-length.
@@jamesstacey529 Funny enough I also have a 7.5" 300 Blk barrel 😂 And to answer your question, it has a 1:5 twist. When I was looking into it, I noticed the head of Q said they put a 1:5 twist on the Honey Badger because it better stabilized subsonics and made them more accurate. Other online forums and videos seemed to echo this, so that's what I decided to go with. At first, I was going to buy the Faxon 1:5 300 Blk barrel, but it was sold out everywhere I looked. Eventually, I was able to find one from a company called Tactical Kinetics on pro2a-tactical. So far so good, but I literally just got it and have brought it to the range only once so far (a few days ago, in fact).
I’m running an 11 yard zero for all of my 300 blackout subsonic ars and running 100 yard zero for 110 supers. 11 yard zero with 220 subs is dead on out to 110-115 yards. Pretty nice zero. Try it out
Seems like you‘d be way high over quite s distance inbetween, but I‘d have to check the numbers. If so, it might be better to be a tad low at 100y but have a more even spread. But I don‘t know, I‘m currently zeroed for subs at 50m or 55y because either that or 25m are nearest to me and most convenient to zero for me. Maybe I‘ll try something else sometime, I could do 10y too, if it makes sense
With a 16" barrel, and 220 grain subsonic .300 BLK ammo, the 16/100 yard zero has been the best... At 60 yards, it's 3 inches high and at 117 yards, it's 3 inches low. Right inside that "CQB" range...
I always thought the eotech with the BDC was stupid but this is convincing me to buy one. At least for 300blk considering how wildly your performance changes from load to load.
If you buy an eotech the 4 dot reticle is the way to go. It basically simulates an ACOG during the day when you use a magnifier but has night vision compatibility when unmagnified at night.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kjthough the 4 dots aren’t really visible and appear as a straight line without a magnifier to many people and it seems busy. Though I‘ve only looked through it and regular practice might make me change my mind. Then again, if you need the 4 holds on a regular basis, you might be better served with an ACOG + mini red dot. I do like the 2 dot eotech though, and would like to get one for either my 300blk or a 556 gun with magnifier at some point
@@Bisley1 That is the point. You don't need the dots unless you are firing at long range that requires the magnifier for PID. The ACOG and mini red dot is workable, but the reason the EOTECH and magnifier is used is if you have night vision. EOTECH has the clearest glass due to not being a reflector design. The magnifier is not really used unless your work at night starts extending into morning and then afternoon. If one isn't using night vision then yeah there is no point in using the EOTECH as a prism or regular scope with a top mounted red dot will be much better for daytime use.
I've tried chasing this unicorn and gave up. Just way too many variables with barrel lengths and grain weights. I load my own 220gr hitek coated subs and I just do a 50yd exps 2-1 zero that way it has the same cqb hold as 5.56 that I'm used to with the bottom of the ring being 7yds. I've for the moment stopped shooting supers altogether and just keep it as a pure close range fun gun.
A friend of mine runs one 4x prism for supers and an offset red dot for subs. He’s happy with his set up. I’m still chasing the unicorn with a LPVO with a BDC reticle… I’m too stubborn for my own good.
As a CQC , running the light at 1 O-clock gives more light towards your left field of view , no shadow on the left , suggestion- moving light up for fuller 180° field of view .
I can't move it any farther forward without extending past the flash hider but if I have been thinking about moving to the left and getting a smaller light body for less interference with grip.
Thats wild, my build is super similar to yours. Mine is an 8.2" from BA, with a 300 SPS, exps 3-2 at 2.26. I also run the 110gr vmax at 50yd. My subs seems to be off compared to yours though. Its been alittle bit so I may need to check zero again between supers/subs, but my 200-220gr land above the second dot, and to the right(maybe my gun isnt level though). I love my 300blk out, it kinda snuck its way up the priority list of gun builds.
I have heard of others having windage shifts when switching between supers and subs like I had slightly, so I wouldn't be concerned. Also my 180gr are not very common for subs but the POI should be in the ballpark for most people.
@@NorthernMarksman So a couple weeks ago, we were just messing around and tried shooting the 220gr out to about, 280ish yards. The very bottom of the donut was the hold, out of the 30rd loaded, we only had 3-4 hits cause we ended up having to mortar them in. The slightest deviation would throw them off target by a foot. But the supers were basically the same as the center dot.
I run an 85 yard zero for subs. From 0-100 yards it's a 2-inch differential throughout that range. Given a 2 MOA with 300blk subs + a 2-inch differential, a 4-inch group for 0-100 yards is ideal for me.
I've been testing a 40 yard zero on my 300Blk MCX for 125gr Supers. I need to test it out on Subs, but the 40yd on the Eotech EXPS3-2 and Unity riser gives a pretty solid (theoretical) MPBR for 125gr Supers. I just need to find a more consistent round than the Frontier 125gr, it doesn't seem to play nicely with the MCX.
Zero your weapon to your round and barrel length. You can't just say 50 feet and expect 110s, 115s, 124s, 125s, 147s, and 150s to perform equally ESPECIALLY from a 5.5", 7", 8", or 9" barrel.
You might try zeroing your supers at 150. I find that this gives a good max PBR with supers and is also high enough to keep supers in the game to about 75
Great video comparing the zeroes on paper. Ive never been a fan of 300blk just because neither supers or subs gives especially good performance. The subsonics are cool, but kind of a novelty. The supers are much better, but still have the issue of a rainbow trajectory like a 7.62x39. Just cant think of a scenario where a citizen (or even a police/military) would actually need to be able to quick swap between supers and subs. And if they do, I dont see it being worth the substantially worse ballistics over the 5.56 out of a reasonable length barrel. Saw this was your first video and youre at 57 subscribers. I subbed. It looks and sounds great for a first video, and 5k views is also great. Hope you continue, looking forward to more content.
Brass Facts has a great video discussing the use case of a 300 BLK rifle. TL;DR Subs can be very quiet under certain conditions (terrain/distance) and could be useful for one guy in a squad to have quiet weapon but also switch to rifle performance if necessary. Also thanks for the comment! I am just starting out and have a few other videos in the works.
I bought a similar setup as the one in the vid. Set it up for sub. The purpose is for home defense using Sub hollow points. Quiet, small, and a big piece of lead. I would not call it a novelty, its a round for a specific purpose.
The round was designed and used that way by SOCOM so you might be missing something...to be fair it was meant to replace a H&K MP5SD for both quite work and having some better range. Not blowing your ears out inside of your own home isnt what I would call a novelty.
@@Bisley1 VA FIREARMS REGULATION Rifles and pistols using centerfire ammunition (SMALLER than .23 caliber) Deer: No Bear: No Elk: No Fall Turkey: Yes Spring Turkey: Yes
@@NorthernMarksman 36 yard zero works for all close to mid range rifles and calibers....... It's already been shown and proven the 36 yard zero has the least room for error. And is why they use it. If it's retarted then prove it wrong. It's called a 36/150.
@jojack228 a quick check on 4DOF shows my 14.5 shooting 77gr with a 36 yd zero reaches its max ordinate at 150yd and 3.8 inches. So more like a 36/250 zero
@jojack228 but the big issue because departments/services zero at that closer 25/36 yd target and then fail to confirm at distance. Being off by a few MOA up close easily goes unnoticed but can cause a complete miss at distance
interesting data, that is a similar setup to what I want to use for both a subsonic QCB weapon that has the ability to go brush range with supersonics...just as the round was designed for. So how did the suppressor work in between both round velocities? I am assuming the video sound was edited.
Good effort, thanks. COnstructive comment: It would be real helpful if you would label both the aim point, and circle the different groups each time. SOmewhat confusing the way it was presented.
Solid visual representation of the differences between subs and supers at range, good information, thank you.
I’m set at 30yd zero. Single dot, 7.5” bl. 220gr sub, 120gr super. 7” total spread from 0-100yds with both ammos. That’s a # I can live with!
Just curious, what is your spread between the supers and subs at 100 yards with a 30 yard zero? And is it the case where:
- They are both hitting above the bullseye at 100 yards? Or--
- The super is hitting above at 100 but the super his hitting below? Or--
- They are both hitting below the bullseye at 100?
I'm curious because I just put together a 300 Blk PDW. It'll be for home defense, so I plan to use a close zero (between ~15-25 yards), but I'm not yet sure what the effect is at further ranges.
Are you running a pistol gas system and no suppressor with the supers and subs?
@@jamesstacey529 Not to answer for him, but I can at least say that it has to be a pistol-length gas system because it's only a 7.5" barrel. The next shortest standard length (at least that I'm aware of) is carbine length, which would align right where this barrel ends (so it wouldn't be possible). I believe you need at least a 10" barrel for carbine-length.
@andrewnesbitt2523 I have a 7.5-inch barrel pistol gas system . What's your barrel twist ? Thanks for the reply 👍
@@jamesstacey529 Funny enough I also have a 7.5" 300 Blk barrel 😂 And to answer your question, it has a 1:5 twist. When I was looking into it, I noticed the head of Q said they put a 1:5 twist on the Honey Badger because it better stabilized subsonics and made them more accurate. Other online forums and videos seemed to echo this, so that's what I decided to go with. At first, I was going to buy the Faxon 1:5 300 Blk barrel, but it was sold out everywhere I looked. Eventually, I was able to find one from a company called Tactical Kinetics on pro2a-tactical. So far so good, but I literally just got it and have brought it to the range only once so far (a few days ago, in fact).
I’m running an 11 yard zero for all of my 300 blackout subsonic ars and running 100 yard zero for 110 supers. 11 yard zero with 220 subs is dead on out to 110-115 yards. Pretty nice zero. Try it out
Seems like you‘d be way high over quite s distance inbetween, but I‘d have to check the numbers. If so, it might be better to be a tad low at 100y but have a more even spread. But I don‘t know, I‘m currently zeroed for subs at 50m or 55y because either that or 25m are nearest to me and most convenient to zero for me. Maybe I‘ll try something else sometime, I could do 10y too, if it makes sense
@@Bisley1 ruclips.net/video/OwE1C6M77ks/видео.htmlsi=KrM2hnqUopLp7Xmn
Seeing as my 300BLK is my home defense gun, this type of zero makes the most sense to me.
I enjoyed the video. I’ve got a 9” 300BLK SBR with the 300BLK EoTech. It has the same 2 dot ring. Currently sighted in at 50 yards on 220gr subs.
300 BLK is very different from every other caliber, given the wide range of bullet weight. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
With a 16" barrel, and 220 grain subsonic .300 BLK ammo, the 16/100 yard zero has been the best... At 60 yards, it's 3 inches high and at 117 yards, it's 3 inches low. Right inside that "CQB" range...
I have this and really like it. I bought it to be able to carry and run both supers and subs. Thanks for the video!
I always thought the eotech with the BDC was stupid but this is convincing me to buy one. At least for 300blk considering how wildly your performance changes from load to load.
If you buy an eotech the 4 dot reticle is the way to go. It basically simulates an ACOG during the day when you use a magnifier but has night vision compatibility when unmagnified at night.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kjthough the 4 dots aren’t really visible and appear as a straight line without a magnifier to many people and it seems busy. Though I‘ve only looked through it and regular practice might make me change my mind. Then again, if you need the 4 holds on a regular basis, you might be better served with an ACOG + mini red dot. I do like the 2 dot eotech though, and would like to get one for either my 300blk or a 556 gun with magnifier at some point
@@Bisley1 That is the point. You don't need the dots unless you are firing at long range that requires the magnifier for PID.
The ACOG and mini red dot is workable, but the reason the EOTECH and magnifier is used is if you have night vision. EOTECH has the clearest glass due to not being a reflector design. The magnifier is not really used unless your work at night starts extending into morning and then afternoon. If one isn't using night vision then yeah there is no point in using the EOTECH as a prism or regular scope with a top mounted red dot will be much better for daytime use.
Well made vid, look forward to more content!
Didn’t know this was your first video! Great job and thanks for the info! 😃🙌🏽🙏🏽
@@josueneris1861 thanks man much appreciated!
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing.
That thing is crazy quiet!
I've tried chasing this unicorn and gave up. Just way too many variables with barrel lengths and grain weights. I load my own 220gr hitek coated subs and I just do a 50yd exps 2-1 zero that way it has the same cqb hold as 5.56 that I'm used to with the bottom of the ring being 7yds. I've for the moment stopped shooting supers altogether and just keep it as a pure close range fun gun.
A friend of mine runs one 4x prism for supers and an offset red dot for subs. He’s happy with his set up.
I’m still chasing the unicorn with a LPVO with a BDC reticle… I’m too stubborn for my own good.
Thanks for the info!
As a CQC , running the light at 1 O-clock gives more light towards your left field of view , no shadow on the left , suggestion- moving light up for fuller 180° field of view .
I can't move it any farther forward without extending past the flash hider but if I have been thinking about moving to the left and getting a smaller light body for less interference with grip.
Gonna go rezero all my .300 now. Good video
Nice video. Contemplating a 300 build
Do it
Nice video! I have a 300 BLK build (9.5” barrel) Im adding a can (AB 7.62) and will zero at 50 for subs
Thats wild, my build is super similar to yours. Mine is an 8.2" from BA, with a 300 SPS, exps 3-2 at 2.26. I also run the 110gr vmax at 50yd. My subs seems to be off compared to yours though. Its been alittle bit so I may need to check zero again between supers/subs, but my 200-220gr land above the second dot, and to the right(maybe my gun isnt level though).
I love my 300blk out, it kinda snuck its way up the priority list of gun builds.
I have heard of others having windage shifts when switching between supers and subs like I had slightly, so I wouldn't be concerned. Also my 180gr are not very common for subs but the POI should be in the ballpark for most people.
@@NorthernMarksman So a couple weeks ago, we were just messing around and tried shooting the 220gr out to about, 280ish yards. The very bottom of the donut was the hold, out of the 30rd loaded, we only had 3-4 hits cause we ended up having to mortar them in. The slightest deviation would throw them off target by a foot. But the supers were basically the same as the center dot.
Great video and content sir thank you.
I run an 85 yard zero for subs. From 0-100 yards it's a 2-inch differential throughout that range. Given a 2 MOA with 300blk subs + a 2-inch differential, a 4-inch group for 0-100 yards is ideal for me.
This is my zero for subs as well. Good choice
I've been testing a 40 yard zero on my 300Blk MCX for 125gr Supers. I need to test it out on Subs, but the 40yd on the Eotech EXPS3-2 and Unity riser gives a pretty solid (theoretical) MPBR for 125gr Supers. I just need to find a more consistent round than the Frontier 125gr, it doesn't seem to play nicely with the MCX.
Wooooooo first video!!
Zero your weapon to your round and barrel length. You can't just say 50 feet and expect 110s, 115s, 124s, 125s, 147s, and 150s to perform equally ESPECIALLY from a 5.5", 7", 8", or 9" barrel.
Great video, I do the 9" barrel 50 yard zero with super and subs also.
I use irons for unsuppressed supers and CQB mode is suppressed subs zeroed on my Aimpoint mount allows for both to be used
You might try zeroing your supers at 150. I find that this gives a good max PBR with supers and is also high enough to keep supers in the game to about 75
Great video comparing the zeroes on paper.
Ive never been a fan of 300blk just because neither supers or subs gives especially good performance. The subsonics are cool, but kind of a novelty. The supers are much better, but still have the issue of a rainbow trajectory like a 7.62x39. Just cant think of a scenario where a citizen (or even a police/military) would actually need to be able to quick swap between supers and subs. And if they do, I dont see it being worth the substantially worse ballistics over the 5.56 out of a reasonable length barrel.
Saw this was your first video and youre at 57 subscribers. I subbed. It looks and sounds great for a first video, and 5k views is also great. Hope you continue, looking forward to more content.
Brass Facts has a great video discussing the use case of a 300 BLK rifle.
TL;DR
Subs can be very quiet under certain conditions (terrain/distance) and could be useful for one guy in a squad to have quiet weapon but also switch to rifle performance if necessary.
Also thanks for the comment! I am just starting out and have a few other videos in the works.
I bought a similar setup as the one in the vid.
Set it up for sub.
The purpose is for home defense using Sub hollow points.
Quiet, small, and a big piece of lead.
I would not call it a novelty, its a round for a specific purpose.
The round was designed and used that way by SOCOM so you might be missing something...to be fair it was meant to replace a H&K MP5SD for both quite work and having some better range. Not blowing your ears out inside of your own home isnt what I would call a novelty.
300blk supers can also be good for hunting out of a shorter rifle than 223, since nobody has mentioned non tactical / defensive situations.
@@Bisley1
VA FIREARMS REGULATION
Rifles and pistols using centerfire ammunition (SMALLER than .23 caliber)
Deer: No
Bear: No
Elk: No
Fall Turkey: Yes
Spring Turkey: Yes
looking at getting an A3 Tactical triad bullpup kit with a BRN-180SH barrel.
I like my AR 8.5", but like my X95 and bullpups in general
Very informative, good video thanks!
What about aimpoint comp M5B? If I remember right it has a second zero saved so you have a super/sub combo. Or even a suppressed/unsuppressed combo.
I've never heard of that one, but I just looked into it. Seems like an effective concept, but apparently not very popular.
Shows why the 35-36 yard zero is the best. And our military and police use that zero because less room for error.
😅 this is completely separate from 556. 36 yard zero is retarded in practice for M4s
@@NorthernMarksman 36 yard zero works for all close to mid range rifles and calibers....... It's already been shown and proven the 36 yard zero has the least room for error. And is why they use it. If it's retarted then prove it wrong. It's called a 36/150.
@jojack228 a quick check on 4DOF shows my 14.5 shooting 77gr with a 36 yd zero reaches its max ordinate at 150yd and 3.8 inches. So more like a 36/250 zero
@jojack228 but the big issue because departments/services zero at that closer 25/36 yd target and then fail to confirm at distance. Being off by a few MOA up close easily goes unnoticed but can cause a complete miss at distance
So the reticle works.
thanks for sharing,it is ideal to shoot supersonic 300BLk ammo without using suppressor>
How's the crossover with a 25yd zero on your rig? I'm sure its not the same as the 5.56 (25/300ish) but as a curious cat would be interested to see.
interesting data, that is a similar setup to what I want to use for both a subsonic QCB weapon that has the ability to go brush range with supersonics...just as the round was designed for. So how did the suppressor work in between both round velocities? I am assuming the video sound was edited.
Great video!
I have a 10.5 and I use the 20yard/250yard zero
Very good kit. Very good. But this button on buffer tube don't look good)
Good effort, thanks. COnstructive comment: It would be real helpful if you would label both the aim point, and circle the different groups each time. SOmewhat confusing the way it was presented.
Not knocking you for loading your own ammo but it may have helped others more if you shot subs that were more standard grain size like off the shelf.
Since drop is mostly affected by velocity, as long as your bullet is subsonic, it should be pretty close between all 180-220gr Bullets
I just have one rifle zeroed for supers and one for subs so I don’t have to deal with 2 zeros lol
Older model EXPS3-2? What makes that an older model?
Has the older logo. It was around the time the whole "thermal shift" issue was discovered a few years ago
I do not shoot long range, I use the 10yd zero on all my pistols and rifles.
My plan is to not let my target get too close so I prefer a 500yd zero
@@NorthernMarksman That's some pretty long hallways in your house :)
I have a huey ii w a 3x. 7" Q 1:5. Bottom triangle (just the) tip = 300yds. Just angle that puppy up and lob em in.
That's bougie af!
Eye protection isn't a suggestion.
God it’s so quiet
mil spec trigger? wtf?
Don’t be a snob mil spec triggers work for some people
Dude spent 4k on other accessories but $35 on the second most important part.
Put chapter markers in your videos.
It's a basic skill who's absence indicates a lack of professionalism and respect for your audience.
Lmao, entitled much? Get a life bro
Lol it's a 10 minute video dude
😂 yet you don't know how to convey that as a polite recommendation? Crazy
Don’t be a fucking douche. How about that?
It's a free video, he is not obligated to do anything for us.
what about the TWIST RATE?
Anything under 10.3 is usually 1/7
I have a 1n 10 twist 16'' and it shoots Great and Love the 300 BK out! 110's and 190's