Hi Tim, Northern Europa ex farmer here from Sweden, the longer ones, the points, they are simply only wear items, they should always be there on the plow, if not you will wear down a expensive part of the turnboards, I guarantee you that you would not be happy to replace them every 2nd or 3rd year 🙂 We have deeper topsoils here mostly, and use them to keep weed pressure down and in the northern hemisphere, they are also made to let the ice and water crack the hard claysoils, makes it real easy to brake the clumps up in springtime with a harrow Also, this type of plow, does not leave the field residue on top at all, and if correctly set, you can draw a imaginary line from the top link, and back to the furrow in the back, and it would keep your tractor going straight and also make the plow to want to straighten out I will see if I can take some video of the annual plow days around here and put up on my channel to show, or maybe on the farmer that rents our farm when they plow in the fall for everybody to see And I had no doubht the tractor would pull it, when I was a kiddo and teenager, I used our smallest tractor, a Deutz Fahr D5207C (52hp) 2wd, with a 3 furrow plow, not a turnover one, but it worked fine even in clay and hard ground as long as the tyres could grab a hold 😁 Thats how I learned how to plow straight, different ways and my dad always told me: "you better plow straight there kid, otherwise I´ll tell the neighbors that you plowed it on the commercial side of the farm and that its your fault!" He meant the fields in the fronts and around the public roads, haha, oh man, I love ploughing, still today I cringe when watching many plowing especially in the US when it looks like something the wildboars tore up in the fields.. I could cringe for a whole season if I did not turn down all materials :)
Frankly I’m surprised. I wasn’t sure you could lift it, let alone pull it. Your explanations were spot on explaining all the nuances of the tractor and application. Actually optimal performance test given your loss of power and traction occur at the same time. Best regards to Tom and Randall. Tom’s banter is a hoot! Blessings to all.
What do you mean back in the day, dad had 1000 acres 900 tillage we always plowed every year, if you want good tillage, plantable seed bed then ya plow, we had a 5 bottom with 16 inch shears 4 bottom with 16 inch shears. T the only way to go. You want old, try pulling a rope pull trip, not hydraulic
Thanks for plowing up a prepared field and having so much fun with your family. My Grandfather would often be on top of the plow as his Horses normally 6 or 8 for a plow, would pull him and it through the soil on one of three farms he owned. He raised Morgans as work horses. RIP him.
Growing up as a kid, middle school, high school and a little in college we had a JD 4020. My favorite job on the 4020 was moldboard plowing. A semi-mounted 5 bottom plow. Thanks for sharing Tim.
Thanks Tim. Enjoyed watching the plowing demo. Impressed with the 4075R pulling that rather large plow and even though it was working hard it seemed to pull fine. The field turned over really nice.
It's great to see brothers working together to get the job done. Two in the field putting their decades of knowledge to use getting the adjustment right and the other sitting in the air-conditioned cab. Someone had to pull the short straw... Great info Tim. I'll never use it but It's nice to know that plow exists.
I remember here in south central Texas most of the peanut farmers used roll over plows, them some of them switched to the reversible plows (switch plows). Heard that the switch plows pulled easier. I've always liked the roll over plow.
The new 4075 is amazing with the hydrostatic tranny plowing. I can see it’s not perfect but for a small farm or food plots you could maximize productivity with one machine or the 4075 and a small machine. Great video
Great video Tim. Spot on with what I have seen pulling disk or other ground engaging implements with my 4066R. E-hydros are not the best at ground engaging task like that but, can and do get the job done. I was doing math on my 4066R with loaded tires loader weight yesterday, wheel weights, spacers etc. etc. Mine comes in at right at 8500 with a full tank of fuel based on all the specs added together for a ballpark total weight. I think yours as it is setup seen here in the video, would land it right at 6000 lbs give or take. That loader with HD bucket is right at 1000 pounds, plus your wheel weights.
Tim, for me that was your best video ever. 60 years ago, I spent hundreds of hours every spring pulling a three bottom from an Oliver or an Allis. And today, my brother's 5 bottom is a piece of rusty junk!
From my viewpoint, it looks like it is plowing wider when you are heading towards the waterway. It looks like it plows inside the tire track when traveling towards the middle of the field, but its on the outside traveling towards the waterway. Also, You may need to raise the three point and lower the plow gauge wheel a little. I kinda remember that its important that the plow is level when its at the depth you are wanting to plow. Ours were pull type plows 3 bottom and 2 bottom. We used a 990 David Brown and a 520 JD. They had a lot less hp than 75. It should run with that plow. The dirt looked like it would almost turn over on its own. lol
Looks like a great workout for that tractor. In normal non rotating plow setup looks like it would perform even better. Any plans to hook to hay baling equipment (round or square)?
interesting to watch this 4075R handle the Maschio plow. I'll admit it's neat to watch it in action and might convince an acquaintance of mine to check it out. Hope you all get much needed rainfall for your crops this year. We're on over two weeks here since our last rainfall.
Guys, I came for the tractors, I stay for the people! Tom and Randall are my favorite "guest stars"! There's just something about them that exudes wholesomeness and competence.
Tim would a deep fryer thermometer be long enough to reach the trans oil to get an idea as to the oil temperature? Maybe a crazy idea but maybe worth trying.
Sometimes they are but the readings can be very erratic doing it that way. I had a water temperature sensor rigged up in a short pipe or t fitting for returns and suctions.
Thanks Tim & Christi, great to see how complicated it really is to plow and how easily it strains the tractor! Tim, I'm curious, could you explain for those of us uninitiated homesteaders looking into crops, how would you'd determine perhaps number of blades and or plow length? 9not just related to tractor capability, but perhaps to most efficiently cover acreage (say 8-10 acres). The plethora of content in the wide world of Google seems to get bewildering. I've seen for instance with mowers, that deck width and blades vs acreage has a sort of correlation to determining applicable mower size, so thought its similar with the plows. I've seen mention of 6 and 12 row harvesters / combines, assume density of plants per m2 / sq ft plays in, and contributes to row widths, or number of possible rows in a field. Would that be right? Ps. would be keen to see any future video you might get to do about plows vs no-till equipment.
By experience I personally choose a underpowered tractor. I work with much larger implements and tractors and the farm has a six or seven furrow rollover plough. I have very badly damaged that plough atleast ten times due to hooking on a dead head (stuck boulder). After those costly mistakes we decided to go with a tractor that barely could lift the plough and had to use all power while ploughing. It use more fuel and wear on tractor but when a dead head comes it'll stop and not tear everything apart. This setup on the video actually looks quite useful.
We had a double rollover bottom plow that we used when I was growing up on the farm in NC. That was 60 years ago. It had a manual arm you had to reach back and shift to roll over the plow.
I don't know what world you are from but where I am from, Eastern Oregon, the roll over plow is all we use. Because of the fact that we furrow irrigate a one way plow would not work. Can not have all those high and low spots in the field.
Tim, to answer your question about sharing the same transmission: a 4044 can pull just as hard as 4075 with the same hydrostat, but it would be slower. 1 horsepower is 550 lb*ft/s. That means with 1 horsepower you can pull a 550 drawbar load at 1 foot per second. Decrease speed, and you can increase the pulling force without consumimg more power. Alternatively, it takes twice as much power to pull the same load twice as fast. The maximum drawbar pull of these tractors is going to be limited by the rated output torque of the transmission, and available traction, not engine power. A 4500 lb pull (my estimation) at your stated 3.5 mph is absorbing 42 drawbar horsepower. If you let up on the pedal and went 2 mph, the same task only requires 24 drawbar horsepower.
Good video!!; Should put 200# weight in the bucket of the loader... Rim guard in the tires would always help... Still a GREAT Video Tim.... Try the 5075 on the plow.. see if there's any difference in tractors!!!!
What do you mean by you added vitamins to the fuel tank? You cannot leave us like that. Give us specifics on how you fixed the lift capacity on the three point hitch.
Hi Tim, I was noticing that your front wheels were always pointed away from the plowed section. I'm guessing this was due to the plow pulling the tractor sideways and you were compensating. In theory a moldboard plow should not be putting a lot of side force on the tractor. I'm wondering is based on the actual row width that you were plowing that the moldboards themselves were adjusted accordingly. I occasionally plow with a John Deere model 2800 7 bottom adjustable width plow and it does not add much side force to the tractor even in heavy areas.
In South GA we always used a bottom plow (moldboard) to prepare peanut ground. It was all about burying the ground cover as deep as possible to keep white mold down and making the ground soft for the peanuts to grow in.... Now-a-days, a lot of peanuts are grown no-till or strip till. My first experience with a roll over plow was a spring loaded (2) plow. The most aggravating thing I've ever used...wouldn't flip hard enough so I would get off at the end of each through and push until it locked in place, and Heaven forbid if one plow tripped due to a stump or rock (another whole issue with these plows)!!! Now, rarely see any, most changed to a switch plow. Because farming has changed so much since "the day" hardly see any switch plows in use now.
Just for comparison and fun. A 1955 international 300, has a 45 hp gasoline engine, two wheel drive, 4400 lb tractor and it’s rated to pull 3 bottom plow.
I know Tim’s brothers are the farmers of the family but I would love to see Tim feature some old school tractors at some point. When I seen that plow the first thing I thought was he needed some old school iron like a 4020 for that job lol.
I like that tractor! My metric of measuring a tractor is can it lift a round bale with loader, normally thats around 50hp non compact. But this tractor has won me over...
Well Tim I started plowing on an old model 70@8 yo... pulled an old 3 bottom but a one way unit yes they are easier to pull but believe me that old John deere moved right along. Quite a few farmers back in those days always plowed and more than a few used the roll over, now the secret to that is plow one way one year the next year roll it the other way that way you keep a field quite level. I'll say it again if the back end doesn't want to raise i asked you about that hydraulic top link, i think that would go quite a ways towards helping the tractor do its job maybe I'm wrong but I'm kinda thinkin that might work. Don't know if you tried that theory out or not, but you've kind plenty power to pull that plow and I'm thinking that a one way plow could be stepped up to a 4 bottom. Just saying. Happy plowing!!!
15:54 pressures and swashplate angles are changed to accommodate horsepower and torque curves of the engine , also adjusted to drivetrain and tire size.
Great video. Would liked to be there for that. I’m no expert in plowing. But I use my 1951 tea 20 Ferguson with two bottom plow at our plowing match. I believe there is a centre line adjustment so you don’t have to have the front wheels turned a bit toward the landslide edge, while plowing. And I once saw a video that they wanted about 12% tire slippage. Don’t know why. Farmall A manual tells you to lower the tire pressure by 2 pounds to aid in traction on the tire not in the furrow. Of course in you case you can’t do that. Any way, have a great day. I sure love plowing.
In central New Mexico all we use are rollover plows and have been for many many many years. Made by JD, Bison and other companies. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, bottoms.
That plow looks huge behind that tractor.. here in North Carolina back when everyone was planting tobacco I remember several of the bigger farmers having roll over plows but we always had the regular ones. I remember back then it took bigger tractors to pull the roll over plows because they we so heavy
My plan is to use a rototiller once the sod is turned over. I would want a one or two bottom plow to turn the sod over to build or expand a extra large garden. Does that seem like a good plan?
My Grandfather had plow he called a hillside plow. It was a walk behind with handles. On the end you pulled a lever and lifted up off the ground and the bottom would swing to the other side. Of course he pulled it with his two mules. It was about a 12" plow.
I guess that hydro and wieght makes a big difference? I remember back in the day that we pulled a 3-14 plow in hard sod in the hills of southern indiana with a 1957 John Deere 620 with just 44 drawbar horse power. I believe that in the ground, you are plowing in the 620 could handle a 4 bottom.
From looking at John Deeres website comparing engine stats between the 4075 ad the 4066 the 4075 has nore HP but the same amount of torque, which is really interesting. HP would benefit the PTO the torque would benefit your pulling power more
Hi there Tim, Do you know whether the JD 4044R hydrostatic transmission, is the exact same as the 4066R and 4075R Thank you, look forward to your response. Cheers Jeff
Good test! Nothing works a tractor like a mold board plow. I’ve checked my hydraulic temps when plowing with my 1025R, always around 190, that’s in fall weather so different animal.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll have to rewatch your video installing the temp sensor to make sure I’m doing it the same. Ambient temperature could be the difference.
On the three point Hitch Arms are the stabilizers in a fixed position or in a slotted position? If they’re in a fixed position it’s hard to control the Tractors direction and it will also Rob more power from the tractor
Wow that surprised me. That's a really nice plow. I get you tried it as a 3 bottom just for testing but I think for someone that wanted to use that plow regularly would be better getting a 2 bottom and setting it to the wider cut and covering the same amount of ground. If you had it set at 11 inches with 3 bottoms you are plowing 33 inches. I wonder how 2 bottoms set at 18 would work? It would take care of the barely being able to lift the plow and you would be plowing 36 inches
I notice that plow doesn’t have any coulter discs. They’re likely not needed in that ground, but they would give you a cleaner furrow wall and easier plowing. Also I think you should try it with the reversible points back on it. Kverneland uses the same set up, and they’re not really for sub soiling. The break the ground on the land side for the share to flip it. Without that point the share would make the plow behave a little erratic because that share will be steering the plow to the side without the point to hold it steady
Yes, we always used coulters. As for the deep till points, we have plowed thousands of acres. Never used those. These shares are removable and replaceable.
Do those lil tractors have front wheel assist like the bigger tractors do I wonder if that would help the slipping problem it’s looks thought that u don’t need anything else just a tad more pulling power just a lil but It would do the job u need to do
And always saving the 4 wheel drive is a marks thing until u get stuck that’s when u will need it also I wonder say If u went over like parts wher the heavy grain cart was going along side the combine if the compact of the soil was less would it pull better I would think it would pull better
You can judge your power by the speed you can plow at. 3 MPH seems about right. You need to look at how the soil is being turned over. I would like to see what it looks like in a stubble field. For anything ground engaging a gear drive with a clutch provides a more "solid" drive that breaks thru hard spots. Hydrostatic, power shift, and CV transmissions tend to be softer. As tractor horsepower has gotten larger the move has been away from 3 point mounted plows to much wider drawn ones. In the West rollover plows used to be common. They were also called "one ways".
Very interesting video! It looks like you're having to oversteer a bit to keep straight. Looks like the front wheels are being steered to "climb" the furrow wall. Regarding the loader on/off quandary, I like to mow with the loader off because I don't need the front end weight and it makes the consist shorter overall, increasing maneuverability. In other words, I don't have to worry about wiping out trees of fence posts when I'm mowing.
When I helped my uncle plow in my younger years, I always felt I had to oversteer toward the wall of the furrow to keep the tractor going straight. I just assumed it was because the tractor is tilted with the furrow wheel lower than the upper wheel. You've probably noticed, that when you're going down a highway where your lane is pitched to the right for water runoff that you feel you have to put a little left steer into your steering wheel in order to keep your car from drifting right even though you know your wheel alignment is perfect. Its the same effect when plowing.
That is a moldboard plow or a bottom plow and yes we still use them down here in the south I use one every year to get ground ready to plant corn. I have a process and prepping ground to get ready for planting season and this is one of the steps I take to prepare the ground. However I think that three bottom plow is a little too much for that tracker even if it is in disked up dirt.
plough should be vertical in work and level front to back , you need to put the points back on they are wear items and usually when about 1/3 worn can be turned to wear the second side ,you will wear out a number of points before the shares wear out doing that , you are doing nice level work and seem to turning the sod over well has that tractor depth control in the hydraulics which transfers some plough to the tractor
The headset with the mic on it what is that. Can you communicate between two of those headsets? Is it Bluetooth? I’m trying to find some that are comms with Bluetooth and rechargeable.
my 50hp MF (2850m) has about 600lbs more lift on 3 point hitch, but not sure about pulling capacity of it. Since I don't have much soil, and we grow rocks where I am (😄), I would be curious if it could handle that rollover plow.
plow is out of adjustment right to left. Tractor should run straight while in the fur, you're having to keep the wheel turned to stay in the fur. Pull a string thur center of tractor and measure over to point and end of slides should be the same distance. Main frame of plow should be level in the ground engaged position, front to back and right to left. In the ground engaged position the top link should be loose, when you get all these things accomplished your putting the least load possible on the tractor. You can't plow long term with the hydro it will burn up. Was tried in the 70s just wouldn't last under these conditions. Ideal for light ground engagement and precise ground speed.
If you look at the front tires at 9:37 they are turned going left pretty hard. Seems as though they should point straight. I know the tires riding in the previous furrow but they should point straight to plow straight? Right? Seems if you have more front weight it wouldn't turn tires.. I think you need more front tire weight to help with pulling power and easier to drive..
With the loader on a tractor like that you could fill it full of dirt and lift it to max height to add more weight over the tractor but don't take turns too sharp because it will be more top heavy.
Look for the spec on the pressure relief within the transmission compared to the lower hp versions. Seems to me if the relief is set the same the extra hp won't deliver any more pull.
Hydraulic oil and engine oil temperature is really what I’m interested in. I’d also like to see how the tractor performs doing heavy loader work with liquid ballast in the rear tires. Pretty much the stuff you can’t check. I really like the extra power over my 2860M Massey. Huge disadvantage of the Deere for me is the heavily right hand controls. I’m in the process of getting myoelectric prosthetic, so hopefully I’ll be able to go with Deere in the future.
@@briansmith8405 overall it’s been pretty good. I believe it was the second one in the US, so it’s a early one. I bought it December of 20 and have almost 600 hours on it. I’ve had a few minor oil leaks but really nothing significant. I’ve had problems with the loader frame cracking but I use the hell out of doing tree work. The cab is roomy and quite, plus it was about 15k less than the Deere 4066R and I can run the pto to 600 if I want. In the owners manual there’s clear instructions how to pull codes and diagnose problems, no scan tool required! The spec for PTO horsepower around 44 but it seemed to do a little better than a 4066R when using a 74” flail mower for comparison cutting through heavy brush, we did notice the Deere had more very low end grunt just before stalling. The engine in the 2860M is normally set to 75 or 80 hp(depending on location) according to the service manual, but detuned to 60 hp for the tractor. I’m trying to figure out if it’s ECU detune or mechanical, if mechanical then it’ll probably have 80hp…because 80 hp and insurance. Overall its been good, I wish it had a MSL loader and more power available. The oil leaks probably have something to do with it being a early production. I’m guessing 95% of owners will never have a problem with the loader. I’m lifting logs, pushing trees over, digging out stumps, and all kinds of other stuff that skid steers do.
What we have found here in ireland tim is the 4 series frame is limited and the jump to the 5e is to much of a jump thats why i asked was the frame abit bigger here in ireland newholland do a t4s tractor in a nut shell in size its frame is in between the 4 and 5 series you can get it 75 hp and more its a turkish built new holland if ye do get the t4s in the states it would be worth looking at
I see that the field your in has very little trash (corn stalks) on top. The question I have is how would this plow handle large amounts of trash? If you have a field that has not been prepped it would be fun to see.
We pulled 5 16s with the 930 case and 4 16s with the 900 case. Both at around 5 mph. Plotters 500 to 600 acres every year. Before the 930 came home pulled 3 16s with the old model 70JD. Sure do miss those days
Oh, and dad always made sure we were 8"deep minimum. And once you get the shears scoured off pulls much easier as y'all will know, oh and for a good quick fast scour job find ya some real gravelly soil bout one pass on a quarter to half mile long furrow and they're shiny shiny shiny haha
I would be interested to see what the 4075 will do with a set of disc harrows. I have an old JD 12’ disc that I pull with a 100hp case; and it’s all it can do to pull it at 5mph. I’d like to see what that JD can handle with a 9-10’ 3 point disc.
Pretty impressive. My question isn't about the tractor OR implement though. I,m curious about the missing soybean seeds. Sounded like maybe they were unavailable? I'm not a farmer, so just wondered if there was some sort of shortage or lingering supply-chain issue?
Quite a fascinating story there. They plant ‘seed beans’…beans that will be grown for next years seed for other farmers. The ‘parent seed’ for this variety is being harvested in Brazil right now, and is being shipped up here. Then, Tom and Randall will plant it. It would not surprise us if the harvest of this seed is shipped back to Brazil where it will be planted again…multiplying it in time for next spring’s planting here. Using this approach, the company can grow two crops in one year.
this may be wrong to do but i like the loader on when i an mowing tall bush hog work i can use it to finf any stuff that would hurt the tractor or mower note this i do drive very slow (a ) stuff is tall and want to cut stuff up good (b) i do not want to hit any deep holes that i could get stuck in
U have that rolover plow as mounted and semimounted with wheels back for transport as well we are in findnding good rolover plow my neightboar have 2 forrow maschio unico and tractor with 155 horse are just playng with it and its at 14 and half inches set. Hello from Europe 😅😅
Hi Tim, Northern Europa ex farmer here from Sweden, the longer ones, the points, they are simply only wear items, they should always be there on the plow, if not you will wear down a expensive part of the turnboards, I guarantee you that you would not be happy to replace them every 2nd or 3rd year 🙂
We have deeper topsoils here mostly, and use them to keep weed pressure down and in the northern hemisphere, they are also made to let the ice and water crack the hard claysoils, makes it real easy to brake the clumps up in springtime with a harrow
Also, this type of plow, does not leave the field residue on top at all, and if correctly set, you can draw a imaginary line from the top link, and back to the furrow in the back, and it would keep your tractor going straight and also make the plow to want to straighten out
I will see if I can take some video of the annual plow days around here and put up on my channel to show, or maybe on the farmer that rents our farm when they plow in the fall for everybody to see
And I had no doubht the tractor would pull it, when I was a kiddo and teenager, I used our smallest tractor, a Deutz Fahr D5207C (52hp) 2wd, with a 3 furrow plow, not a turnover one, but it worked fine even in clay and hard ground as long as the tyres could grab a hold 😁
Thats how I learned how to plow straight, different ways and my dad always told me: "you better plow straight there kid, otherwise I´ll tell the neighbors that you plowed it on the commercial side of the farm and that its your fault!" He meant the fields in the fronts and around the public roads, haha, oh man, I love ploughing, still today I cringe when watching many plowing especially in the US when it looks like something the wildboars tore up in the fields.. I could cringe for a whole season if I did not turn down all materials :)
Frankly I’m surprised. I wasn’t sure you could lift it, let alone pull it. Your explanations were spot on explaining all the nuances of the tractor and application. Actually optimal performance test given your loss of power and traction occur at the same time. Best regards to Tom and Randall. Tom’s banter is a hoot! Blessings to all.
What do you mean back in the day, dad had 1000 acres 900 tillage we always plowed every year, if you want good tillage, plantable seed bed then ya plow, we had a 5 bottom with 16 inch shears 4 bottom with 16 inch shears. T the only way to go. You want old, try pulling a rope pull trip, not hydraulic
Thanks for plowing up a prepared field and having so much fun with your family. My Grandfather would often be on top of the plow as his Horses normally 6 or 8 for a plow, would pull him and it through the soil on one of three farms he owned. He raised Morgans as work horses. RIP him.
They were used heavily out west up through the 90’s. My grandfather had one and many farmers had them. They were compact and sped up field time.
Growing up as a kid, middle school, high school and a little in college we had a JD 4020. My favorite job on the 4020 was moldboard plowing. A semi-mounted 5 bottom plow. Thanks for sharing Tim.
Thanks Tim. Enjoyed watching the plowing demo. Impressed with the 4075R pulling that rather large plow and even though it was working hard it seemed to pull fine. The field turned over really nice.
It's great to see brothers working together to get the job done. Two in the field putting their decades of knowledge to use getting the adjustment right and the other sitting in the air-conditioned cab. Someone had to pull the short straw... Great info Tim. I'll never use it but It's nice to know that plow exists.
I remember here in south central Texas most of the peanut farmers used roll over plows, them some of them switched to the reversible plows (switch plows). Heard that the switch plows pulled easier. I've always liked the roll over plow.
Are you saving it for tomorrow?
I didn't want to use it all up!
I laughed so hard at those parting shots! Thanks everyone!
Looplp
Would like to see you put your 5075E on that plow for comparison
Testing RUclips’s algorithm with a comment to boost this channel . Let’s get started !
The new 4075 is amazing with the hydrostatic tranny plowing. I can see it’s not perfect but for a small farm or food plots you could maximize productivity with one machine or the 4075 and a small machine. Great video
Great video Tim. Spot on with what I have seen pulling disk or other ground engaging implements with my 4066R. E-hydros are not the best at ground engaging task like that but, can and do get the job done.
I was doing math on my 4066R with loaded tires loader weight yesterday, wheel weights, spacers etc. etc.
Mine comes in at right at 8500 with a full tank of fuel based on all the specs added together for a ballpark total weight.
I think yours as it is setup seen here in the video, would land it right at 6000 lbs give or take.
That loader with HD bucket is right at 1000 pounds, plus your wheel weights.
Tim, for me that was your best video ever. 60 years ago, I spent hundreds of hours every spring pulling a three bottom from an Oliver or an Allis.
And today, my brother's 5 bottom is a piece of rusty junk!
From my viewpoint, it looks like it is plowing wider when you are heading towards the waterway. It looks like it plows inside the tire track when traveling towards the middle of the field, but its on the outside traveling towards the waterway. Also, You may need to raise the three point and lower the plow gauge wheel a little. I kinda remember that its important that the plow is level when its at the depth you are wanting to plow. Ours were pull type plows 3 bottom and 2 bottom. We used a 990 David Brown and a 520 JD. They had a lot less hp than 75. It should run with that plow. The dirt looked like it would almost turn over on its own. lol
Looks like a great workout for that tractor. In normal non rotating plow setup looks like it would perform even better. Any plans to hook to hay baling equipment (round or square)?
My Dad always said that plowing would give you the best look at the overall condition/strength of your tractor.
Yep. Pulls it hard!
interesting to watch this 4075R handle the Maschio plow. I'll admit it's neat to watch it in action and might convince an acquaintance of mine to check it out. Hope you all get much needed rainfall for your crops this year. We're on over two weeks here since our last rainfall.
Guys, I came for the tractors, I stay for the people! Tom and Randall are my favorite "guest stars"! There's just something about them that exudes wholesomeness and competence.
Did you watch the end…Tom is lettin me have it for not having the 4wd engaged at first.
@@TractorTimewithTim I blew a snot bubble I laughed so hard. Y'all got me right in my funny bone!
Tim would a deep fryer thermometer be long enough to reach the trans oil to get an idea as to the oil temperature? Maybe a crazy idea but maybe worth trying.
Sometimes they are but the readings can be very erratic doing it that way. I had a water temperature sensor rigged up in a short pipe or t fitting for returns and suctions.
Thanks Tim & Christi, great to see how complicated it really is to plow and how easily it strains the tractor!
Tim, I'm curious, could you explain for those of us uninitiated homesteaders looking into crops, how would you'd determine perhaps number of blades and or plow length? 9not just related to tractor capability, but perhaps to most efficiently cover acreage (say 8-10 acres).
The plethora of content in the wide world of Google seems to get bewildering.
I've seen for instance with mowers, that deck width and blades vs acreage has a sort of correlation to determining applicable mower size, so thought its similar with the plows.
I've seen mention of 6 and 12 row harvesters / combines, assume density of plants per m2 / sq ft plays in, and contributes to row widths, or number of possible rows in a field. Would that be right?
Ps. would be keen to see any future video you might get to do about plows vs no-till equipment.
This past spring I used my Grandpa's three bottom J I Case plow on our Ford 3000. It plowed like a dream
By experience I personally choose a underpowered tractor. I work with much larger implements and tractors and the farm has a six or seven furrow rollover plough. I have very badly damaged that plough atleast ten times due to hooking on a dead head (stuck boulder). After those costly mistakes we decided to go with a tractor that barely could lift the plough and had to use all power while ploughing. It use more fuel and wear on tractor but when a dead head comes it'll stop and not tear everything apart.
This setup on the video actually looks quite useful.
We had a double rollover bottom plow that we used when I was growing up on the farm in NC. That was 60 years ago. It had a manual arm you had to reach back and shift to roll over the plow.
I don't know what world you are from but where I am from, Eastern Oregon, the roll over plow is all we use. Because of the fact that we furrow irrigate a one way plow would not work. Can not have all those high and low spots in the field.
Tim, to answer your question about sharing the same transmission: a 4044 can pull just as hard as 4075 with the same hydrostat, but it would be slower.
1 horsepower is 550 lb*ft/s. That means with 1 horsepower you can pull a 550 drawbar load at 1 foot per second. Decrease speed, and you can increase the pulling force without consumimg more power.
Alternatively, it takes twice as much power to pull the same load twice as fast.
The maximum drawbar pull of these tractors is going to be limited by the rated output torque of the transmission, and available traction, not engine power.
A 4500 lb pull (my estimation) at your stated 3.5 mph is absorbing 42 drawbar horsepower.
If you let up on the pedal and went 2 mph, the same task only requires 24 drawbar horsepower.
Good video!!; Should put 200# weight in the bucket of the loader... Rim guard in the tires would always help... Still a GREAT Video Tim.... Try the 5075 on the plow.. see if there's any difference in tractors!!!!
Yep, I wanted to see a big bucket full too and would he have better steering ? Just cool to see Tim doing these tests.
Thanks Tim, it was enjoyable and learned a lot.
I don't know what everyone else watches for but watching a tractor in action is the most thing I want to see and then how to make my john deere better
What do you mean by you added vitamins to the fuel tank? You cannot leave us like that. Give us specifics on how you fixed the lift capacity on the three point hitch.
Nice to see family together
We always deep broke in the Fall, and let Winter moisture collect for the Spring. South Texas standard was "turn it black" at least every other year.
Hi Tim,
I was noticing that your front wheels were always pointed away from the plowed section. I'm guessing this was due to the plow pulling the tractor sideways and you were compensating. In theory a moldboard plow should not be putting a lot of side force on the tractor. I'm wondering is based on the actual row width that you were plowing that the moldboards themselves were adjusted accordingly. I occasionally plow with a John Deere model 2800 7 bottom adjustable width plow and it does not add much side force to the tractor even in heavy areas.
In South GA we always used a bottom plow (moldboard) to prepare peanut ground. It was all about burying the ground cover as deep as possible to keep white mold down and making the ground soft for the peanuts to grow in.... Now-a-days, a lot of peanuts are grown no-till or strip till. My first experience with a roll over plow was a spring loaded (2) plow. The most aggravating thing I've ever used...wouldn't flip hard enough so I would get off at the end of each through and push until it locked in place, and Heaven forbid if one plow tripped due to a stump or rock (another whole issue with these plows)!!! Now, rarely see any, most changed to a switch plow. Because farming has changed so much since "the day" hardly see any switch plows in use now.
Just for comparison and fun. A 1955 international 300, has a 45 hp gasoline engine, two wheel drive, 4400 lb tractor and it’s rated to pull 3 bottom plow.
Yeppp Tim, I always save my 4 wheel drive for Friday!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂 Great video!!! #familyLove
Looks like it could benefit from a wider front axle in this application!
Curious what you put in the fuel tank.
I assumed it was a joke. What was it? Lol
I know Tim’s brothers are the farmers of the family but I would love to see Tim feature some old school tractors at some point. When I seen that plow the first thing I thought was he needed some old school iron like a 4020 for that job lol.
I like that tractor! My metric of measuring a tractor is can it lift a round bale with loader, normally thats around 50hp non compact. But this tractor has won me over...
I have a 2006 4320 with 400x loader, I don’t have any problem lifting Alfalfa 4x5 bales.
Well Tim I started plowing on an old model 70@8 yo... pulled an old 3 bottom but a one way unit yes they are easier to pull but believe me that old John deere moved right along. Quite a few farmers back in those days always plowed and more than a few used the roll over, now the secret to that is plow one way one year the next year roll it the other way that way you keep a field quite level. I'll say it again if the back end doesn't want to raise i asked you about that hydraulic top link, i think that would go quite a ways towards helping the tractor do its job maybe I'm wrong but I'm kinda thinkin that might work. Don't know if you tried that theory out or not, but you've kind plenty power to pull that plow and I'm thinking that a one way plow could be stepped up to a 4 bottom. Just saying. Happy plowing!!!
15:54 pressures and swashplate angles are changed to accommodate horsepower and torque curves of the engine , also adjusted to drivetrain and tire size.
It is impressive how it was able to pull it, 3 is a 80+hp tractor job
Great video. Would liked to be there for that. I’m no expert in plowing. But I use my 1951 tea 20 Ferguson with two bottom plow at our plowing match.
I believe there is a centre line adjustment so you don’t have to have the front wheels turned a bit toward the landslide edge, while plowing.
And I once saw a video that they wanted about 12% tire slippage. Don’t know why.
Farmall A manual tells you to lower the tire pressure by 2 pounds to aid in traction on the tire not in the furrow. Of course in you case you can’t do that.
Any way, have a great day. I sure love plowing.
Put that rig on the 5075 ……. Or better yet trade all your stuff in on a “late model” 4020 …. Thanks for all of your great videos Tim !
In central New Mexico all we use are rollover plows and have been for many many many years. Made by JD, Bison and other companies. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, bottoms.
That plow looks huge behind that tractor.. here in North Carolina back when everyone was planting tobacco I remember several of the bigger farmers having roll over plows but we always had the regular ones. I remember back then it took bigger tractors to pull the roll over plows because they we so heavy
My plan is to use a rototiller once the sod is turned over. I would want a one or two bottom plow to turn the sod over to build or expand a extra large garden. Does that seem like a good plan?
If you kill the sod first with weed killer, wait 3 weeks, then you can till nicely. Skip the plow. It only makes things difficult.
My Grandfather had plow he called a hillside plow. It was a walk behind with handles. On the end you pulled a lever and lifted up off the ground and the bottom would swing to the other side. Of course he pulled it with his two mules. It was about a 12" plow.
I love it saving the 4wd for tomorrow 😂
I guess that hydro and wieght makes a big difference? I remember back in the day that we pulled a 3-14 plow in hard sod in the hills of southern indiana with a 1957 John Deere 620 with just 44 drawbar horse power. I believe that in the ground, you are plowing in the 620 could handle a 4 bottom.
This tractor probably doesn't have much if any more than 44 drawbar horsepower.
You should put one of smart connectors in there so you can see temps and fuel consumption.
Very informative
From looking at John Deeres website comparing engine stats between the 4075 ad the 4066 the 4075 has nore HP but the same amount of torque, which is really interesting. HP would benefit the PTO the torque would benefit your pulling power more
Hi there Tim, Do you know whether the JD 4044R hydrostatic transmission, is the exact same as the 4066R and 4075R
Thank you, look forward to your response. Cheers Jeff
Yes, it is.
Good test! Nothing works a tractor like a mold board plow. I’ve checked my hydraulic temps when plowing with my 1025R, always around 190, that’s in fall weather so different animal.
Interesting. We got over 240 degrees with our pull type box blade last summer with 1025r.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll have to rewatch your video installing the temp sensor to make sure I’m doing it the same. Ambient temperature could be the difference.
On the three point Hitch Arms are the stabilizers in a fixed position or in a slotted position? If they’re in a fixed position it’s hard to control the Tractors direction and it will also Rob more power from the tractor
Wow that surprised me. That's a really nice plow. I get you tried it as a 3 bottom just for testing but I think for someone that wanted to use that plow regularly would be better getting a 2 bottom and setting it to the wider cut and covering the same amount of ground. If you had it set at 11 inches with 3 bottoms you are plowing 33 inches. I wonder how 2 bottoms set at 18 would work? It would take care of the barely being able to lift the plow and you would be plowing 36 inches
Yep.
@Tractor Time with Tim I didn't realize that was a 75 hp tractor until this episode. For some reason I was thinking it was only 45ish.
Good video. To us non farmers from Indiana why do you know longer plow your fields like that?
Great video!
You also have a lot of adjustment in your lift arm turnbuckle and your top link the top link is we’re you get the plow level
Interesting out here in Idaho in potato country a 4 bottom roll over plow was the normal tillage method back in the day
In California we used roll over plows all the time we had older ones called tumble bugs
I love the comment "are you saving it for tomorrow? Ya, I didn't want to use it all." when discussing why you didn't have it four-wheel drive.
Yep. We always rib each other.
It’s always fun to hear Tom’s friendly jabs and banter that brings a smile and laughter.
I notice that plow doesn’t have any coulter discs. They’re likely not needed in that ground, but they would give you a cleaner furrow wall and easier plowing. Also I think you should try it with the reversible points back on it. Kverneland uses the same set up, and they’re not really for sub soiling. The break the ground on the land side for the share to flip it. Without that point the share would make the plow behave a little erratic because that share will be steering the plow to the side without the point to hold it steady
Yes, we always used coulters.
As for the deep till points, we have plowed thousands of acres. Never used those.
These shares are removable and replaceable.
Do those lil tractors have front wheel assist like the bigger tractors do I wonder if that would help the slipping problem it’s looks thought that u don’t need anything else just a tad more pulling power just a lil but It would do the job u need to do
And always saving the 4 wheel drive is a marks thing until u get stuck that’s when u will need it also I wonder say If u went over like parts wher the heavy grain cart was going along side the combine if the compact of the soil was less would it pull better I would think it would pull better
You can judge your power by the speed you can plow at. 3 MPH seems about right. You need to look at how the soil is being turned over. I would like to see what it looks like in a stubble field.
For anything ground engaging a gear drive with a clutch provides a more "solid" drive that breaks thru hard spots. Hydrostatic, power shift, and CV transmissions tend to be softer.
As tractor horsepower has gotten larger the move has been away from 3 point mounted plows to much wider drawn ones.
In the West rollover plows used to be common. They were also called "one ways".
Very interesting video! It looks like you're having to oversteer a bit to keep straight. Looks like the front wheels are being steered to "climb" the furrow wall. Regarding the loader on/off quandary, I like to mow with the loader off because I don't need the front end weight and it makes the consist shorter overall, increasing maneuverability. In other words, I don't have to worry about wiping out trees of fence posts when I'm mowing.
Yep. We improved it some, but never figured out how to totally fix.
@@TractorTimewithTim did you have the 3 point sway bars loose so it could move side to side?
When I helped my uncle plow in my younger years, I always felt I had to oversteer toward the wall of the furrow to keep the tractor going straight. I just assumed it was because the tractor is tilted with the furrow wheel lower than the upper wheel. You've probably noticed, that when you're going down a highway where your lane is pitched to the right for water runoff that you feel you have to put a little left steer into your steering wheel in order to keep your car from drifting right even though you know your wheel alignment is perfect. Its the same effect when plowing.
Thank you, Great video!!
Question, does anyone makes a 3 bottom plow with rock 🪨 resetter. Authentic reset
I didn’t even know this type of plow was made. I could smell the fresh broke ground.
I've seen them on euro farming videos. Neat stuff . Your right about that soil smell👍
That is a moldboard plow or a bottom plow and yes we still use them down here in the south I use one every year to get ground ready to plant corn. I have a process and prepping ground to get ready for planting season and this is one of the steps I take to prepare the ground. However I think that three bottom plow is a little too much for that tracker even if it is in disked up dirt.
They used this type of plow on Long Island. They had 3,4,5 bottom plows while I was growing up
Great information
What else will you do to the field to re-prep for soy beans?
plough should be vertical in work and level front to back , you need to put the points back on they are wear items and usually when about 1/3 worn can be turned to wear the second side ,you will wear out a number of points before the shares wear out doing that , you are doing nice level work and seem to turning the sod over well has that tractor depth control in the hydraulics which transfers some plough to the tractor
Its hard to plow with the industrial tires. Ag. tires are a must.
I was surprised I bought a 7' 853lb box blade and with the rippers all the way down it seems like it uses a lot of my 5065E
I haven't seen a farmer use a plow in our area in years. The only area I see it is in the tobacco farming towns and they are an hour north of us.
Nice video
The headset with the mic on it what is that. Can you communicate between two of those headsets? Is it Bluetooth? I’m trying to find some that are comms with Bluetooth and rechargeable.
Stihl Advance Procom
Did you have LoadMatch on or off while plowing?
Off.
my 50hp MF (2850m) has about 600lbs more lift on 3 point hitch, but not sure about pulling capacity of it. Since I don't have much soil, and we grow rocks where I am (😄), I would be curious if it could handle that rollover plow.
plow is out of adjustment right to left. Tractor should run straight while in the fur, you're having to keep the wheel turned to stay in the fur. Pull a string thur center of tractor and measure over to point and end of slides should be the same distance. Main frame of plow should be level in the ground engaged position, front to back and right to left. In the ground engaged position the top link should be loose, when you get all these things accomplished your putting the least load possible on the tractor. You can't plow long term with the hydro it will burn up. Was tried in the 70s just wouldn't last under these conditions. Ideal for light ground engagement and precise ground speed.
If you look at the front tires at 9:37 they are turned going left pretty hard. Seems as though they should point straight. I know the tires riding in the previous furrow but they should point straight to plow straight? Right? Seems if you have more front weight it wouldn't turn tires.. I think you need more front tire weight to help with pulling power and easier to drive..
With the loader on a tractor like that you could fill it full of dirt and lift it to max height to add more weight over the tractor but don't take turns too sharp because it will be more top heavy.
Tim,
Can you explain the differences between 46 backhoe vs 260 backhoe?
Look for the spec on the pressure relief within the transmission compared to the lower hp versions. Seems to me if the relief is set the same the extra hp won't deliver any more pull.
Discussed in the video. In practice we ARE seeing more pulling power. Why??? We don't really understand.
Hydraulic oil and engine oil temperature is really what I’m interested in. I’d also like to see how the tractor performs doing heavy loader work with liquid ballast in the rear tires. Pretty much the stuff you can’t check.
I really like the extra power over my 2860M Massey. Huge disadvantage of the Deere for me is the heavily right hand controls. I’m in the process of getting myoelectric prosthetic, so hopefully I’ll be able to go with Deere in the future.
How do you like your Massey 2860? I have it narrowed down to a 2860 and a 4066r. Just curious what your experience has been with it? Thanks
@@briansmith8405 overall it’s been pretty good. I believe it was the second one in the US, so it’s a early one. I bought it December of 20 and have almost 600 hours on it. I’ve had a few minor oil leaks but really nothing significant. I’ve had problems with the loader frame cracking but I use the hell out of doing tree work. The cab is roomy and quite, plus it was about 15k less than the Deere 4066R and I can run the pto to 600 if I want. In the owners manual there’s clear instructions how to pull codes and diagnose problems, no scan tool required! The spec for PTO horsepower around 44 but it seemed to do a little better than a 4066R when using a 74” flail mower for comparison cutting through heavy brush, we did notice the Deere had more very low end grunt just before stalling. The engine in the 2860M is normally set to 75 or 80 hp(depending on location) according to the service manual, but detuned to 60 hp for the tractor. I’m trying to figure out if it’s ECU detune or mechanical, if mechanical then it’ll probably have 80hp…because 80 hp and insurance. Overall its been good, I wish it had a MSL loader and more power available. The oil leaks probably have something to do with it being a early production. I’m guessing 95% of owners will never have a problem with the loader. I’m lifting logs, pushing trees over, digging out stumps, and all kinds of other stuff that skid steers do.
why we plow with industrial tires? :)
Run what you brung. That’s what we used to say at the drag strip.
What we have found here in ireland tim is the 4 series frame is limited and the jump to the 5e is to much of a jump thats why i asked was the frame abit bigger here in ireland newholland do a t4s tractor in a nut shell in size its frame is in between the 4 and 5 series you can get it 75 hp and more its a turkish built new holland if ye do get the t4s in the states it would be worth looking at
Hope to see some hay baling work with it !
I see that the field your in has very little trash (corn stalks) on top. The question I have is how would this plow handle large amounts of trash?
If you have a field that has not been prepped it would be fun to see.
Last video that tractor wouldn't pick the plow up completely without Tim's help on the back, curious how you solved that issue ?
Vitamins! :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim Enlighten us on what these so called vitiams are you speak of!?
I figured he fitted that hydraulic top link for extra lift🤔. I guess we shall 🙈 next time on tractor time with Tim.
We pulled 5 16s with the 930 case and 4 16s with the 900 case. Both at around 5 mph. Plotters 500 to 600 acres every year. Before the 930 came home pulled 3 16s with the old model 70JD. Sure do miss those days
Oh, and dad always made sure we were 8"deep minimum. And once you get the shears scoured off pulls much easier as y'all will know, oh and for a good quick fast scour job find ya some real gravelly soil bout one pass on a quarter to half mile long furrow and they're shiny shiny shiny haha
I would be interested to see what the 4075 will do with a set of disc harrows. I have an old JD 12’ disc that I pull with a 100hp case; and it’s all it can do to pull it at 5mph. I’d like to see what that JD can handle with a 9-10’ 3 point disc.
I had it on my 8 ft Monroe Tufline pull type disk. It handled it pretty well.
I would not want a wider disk.
Pretty impressive. My question isn't about the tractor OR implement though. I,m curious about the missing soybean seeds. Sounded like maybe they were unavailable? I'm not a farmer, so just wondered if there was some sort of shortage or lingering supply-chain issue?
Quite a fascinating story there. They plant ‘seed beans’…beans that will be grown for next years seed for other farmers.
The ‘parent seed’ for this variety is being harvested in Brazil right now, and is being shipped up here.
Then, Tom and Randall will plant it.
It would not surprise us if the harvest of this seed is shipped back to Brazil where it will be planted again…multiplying it in time for next spring’s planting here.
Using this approach, the company can grow two crops in one year.
Well we certainly live and learn! That's pretty fascinating. Thanks for sharing! 👍🚜
I like that green tractor
this may be wrong to do but i like the loader on when i an mowing tall bush hog work i can use it to finf any stuff that would hurt the tractor or mower note this i do drive very slow (a ) stuff is tall and want to cut stuff up good (b) i do not want to hit any deep holes that i could get stuck in
U have that rolover plow as mounted and semimounted with wheels back for transport as well we are in findnding good rolover plow my neightboar have 2 forrow maschio unico and tractor with 155 horse are just playng with it and its at 14 and half inches set. Hello from Europe 😅😅
The hydrostat wont get old this way.
here in germany we plow usually at around 12inches.