Thank you very much for making this video in details. My customer just pointed at us and said our threads had problem. You know it's not easy to explain to them with such detailed information, especially when English is not our native language. You've saved me out from a disaster! You're my hero! Thank you Sir!!!!!!! (I've suggested your products to my customer in the USA.)
I watched this to learn how to fix the handle on my snowblower. I will NEVER use a whole can of the anti-seize stuff. So I got some wax out of my craft closet and rubbed it lightly on the bolt. It worked! They’re calling for 10 to 14 inches of snow here in the next two days. Thanks so much for your help!
My question is : is a Lock-nut or a Waxed Lock-nut a good use for the four nuts on the drive shaft joined to the transmission, and, on the DIFF end, same question. The issue is: GETTING THEM OFF. When I need to remove those eight nuts to, say, change the center support bearing or service a U-joint on the drive shaft, is a nylon lock-nut going to be overly difficult to remove? I like having them on tight, and particularly like the no-galling effect of the waxed nut, but I don't want to use a torch to remove them. What's the reality here? Should I avoid nylon nuts for the drive shaft or any application where i want to remove them also; and similarly, is Waxed better for removal? Thanks, Doug Day working on vintage Volvo 240
So...is the nylon really helping against the assembly coming loose due to vibration? I have trouble wrapping my head around this. So the thread of the nut stretches the bolt and creates preload force, which causes pretty massive forces on the walls of the thread. And apparently the nylon adds a tiny bit of friction in the mix. If we now assume vibrations and time working on the connection, the bolt stretches and gets lengthened, loosening up the connection. How should this tiny piece of plastic prevent this? It might prevent the nut from coming off completely, but it surely can't retain the existing preload force in the bolt from dropping due to stretching of the bolt? I would be very interested in your opinion, thanks.
My experience with the use of the nuts with nylon inserts relates to the resistance they offer to counter vibration. How does the anti seize impact that resistance to the nut backing off the bolt where vibration is part of the scenario? WIth the anti seize in place, does the nut still need to be acted on by the force of a wrench, or is it possible for vibration to back the nut off?
With how tight the nylon grips the screw, most of the anti-seize will be squeezed out, and what's left won't affect the nylon's ability to grasp the bolt. So using anti-seize to install nylock nuts on bolts, while seemingly contradictory, is perfectly fine with negligible effects to the assembly's vibration resistance.
Wish I would have seen this video before I locked up 3 of 4 nylon nuts. What a huge pain. Now I can’t get them off. What a waste of time. Ummmffff. Thanks for your vid.
Great general purpose explanations. Be careful applying these techniques on more precise needs, aircraft, seismic, etc. The law of friction for solid objects is the opposite of how this was explained. The faster two solid objects move across each other, the LESS friction is created. Yes, friction creates heat. Ratcheting will create more friction and heat than continuous rotation because of the stopping and starting. Every time you start again, the friction of the nut on the bolt shaft will cause a torsional force on the shaft until it either breaks or it releases and begins spinning. Every bolt has a max amount of heat and torsion it can withstand before it galls, so it’s not the speed of turning the nut that causes the galling. Faster = less friction = less heat. Each time you reuse a locknut of any kind, it’s loses its holding ability just a little bit less. Use your own judgement on the importance of the fastener, (ie. something that if a single component fails it could cause death or injury or catastrophic failure vs. a bracket coming lose being held by 3 other fasteners). If it is important, change it out each time. They are cheap. It could be years before removing the nut is even considered again.
I only agree with you halfway. The point you made about stopping and starting seems valid to me, because static friction is greater than moving friction, however, when you say slow speeds have less friction than high speeds, that is counter to what I know of the topic. The friction coefficient is independent of speed as long as the surface is moving. That is, friction is high when the surface is stationary and then suddenly drops when the surface starts moving.
Wish I saw this video first. I literally used an impact driver the exact same one, high speed and now the nut is stuck halfway and I don’t know what to do. It won’t come off, frustrating.
Should not use an impact gun. High speed and pounding will gall the threads. That nut will not back off which is crossed threaded. You will need to cut if off with a hacksaw or bolt cutter.
my hex nut won't lock just keeps turning and won't come off either. Do you have any idea how to come off, it's on a major part on my car, trying to hold some cables down.
I have a bench press and need a socket wrench to install these nylon lock nuts onto the bench, can you please link me a socket wrench on Amazon that works on fitness lock nuts
How could I remove a stripped nylon lock nut. It was torqued to 120 ft lbs. Its size 22mm. BMW. any suggestions would help and save me some trbl. Thanks alot. James.
I can think of two ways: try to wedge a flat-bladed screw driver behind the nut to hold pressure against it while backing it off cut the nut lengthwise with a hacksaw..then wedge it open a little.
Can the thread on a nut be 'formed' instead of 'cut' ? And are finer thread pitch ss bolts more likely to gall and seize compared to coarse threads .....?????????
To your first question, Nuts are always cut thread. It's just the way they are manufactured en masse. To your second question, yes, fine thread bolts are much more likely to gall than coarse thread bolts. There's a lot more surface area on fine thread bolts for galling to occur.
Thank you very much for making this video in details. My customer just pointed at us and said our threads had problem. You know it's not easy to explain to them with such detailed information, especially when English is not our native language. You've saved me out from a disaster! You're my hero! Thank you Sir!!!!!!! (I've suggested your products to my customer in the USA.)
Thank you and happy we could help!
I watched this to learn how to fix the handle on my snowblower. I will NEVER use a whole can of the anti-seize stuff. So I got some wax out of my craft closet and rubbed it lightly on the bolt. It worked! They’re calling for 10 to 14 inches of snow here in the next two days. Thanks so much for your help!
Thanks so much, this helped with my gym equipment assembly!
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Derek Zimmer - Thank you. Found your video quite informative. Had no idea of galling until I watched your presentation. Well done. Well presented.
Glad we teach you something new! Thank you for your feedback.
My question is : is a Lock-nut or a Waxed Lock-nut a good use for the four nuts on the drive shaft joined to the transmission, and, on the DIFF end, same question. The issue is: GETTING THEM OFF. When I need to remove those eight nuts to, say, change the center support bearing or service a U-joint on the drive shaft, is a nylon lock-nut going to be overly difficult to remove? I like having them on tight, and particularly like the no-galling effect of the waxed nut, but I don't want to use a torch to remove them. What's the reality here? Should I avoid nylon nuts for the drive shaft or any application where i want to remove them also; and similarly, is Waxed better for removal? Thanks, Doug Day working on vintage Volvo 240
this is what I was really looking for,thank u sir
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Thank you so much! I think this is going to help a LOT!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
So...is the nylon really helping against the assembly coming loose due to vibration? I have trouble wrapping my head around this. So the thread of the nut stretches the bolt and creates preload force, which causes pretty massive forces on the walls of the thread. And apparently the nylon adds a tiny bit of friction in the mix.
If we now assume vibrations and time working on the connection, the bolt stretches and gets lengthened, loosening up the connection. How should this tiny piece of plastic prevent this? It might prevent the nut from coming off completely, but it surely can't retain the existing preload force in the bolt from dropping due to stretching of the bolt?
I would be very interested in your opinion, thanks.
My experience with the use of the nuts with nylon inserts relates to the resistance they offer to counter vibration. How does the anti seize impact that resistance to the nut backing off the bolt where vibration is part of the scenario? WIth the anti seize in place, does the nut still need to be acted on by the force of a wrench, or is it possible for vibration to back the nut off?
With how tight the nylon grips the screw, most of the anti-seize will be squeezed out, and what's left won't affect the nylon's ability to grasp the bolt. So using anti-seize to install nylock nuts on bolts, while seemingly contradictory, is perfectly fine with negligible effects to the assembly's vibration resistance.
Wish I would have seen this video before I locked up 3 of 4 nylon nuts. What a huge pain. Now I can’t get them off. What a waste of time. Ummmffff. Thanks for your vid.
You're welcome. Thank you for your feedback.
Great general purpose explanations. Be careful applying these techniques on more precise needs, aircraft, seismic, etc. The law of friction for solid objects is the opposite of how this was explained. The faster two solid objects move across each other, the LESS friction is created. Yes, friction creates heat. Ratcheting will create more friction and heat than continuous rotation because of the stopping and starting. Every time you start again, the friction of the nut on the bolt shaft will cause a torsional force on the shaft until it either breaks or it releases and begins spinning. Every bolt has a max amount of heat and torsion it can withstand before it galls, so it’s not the speed of turning the nut that causes the galling. Faster = less friction = less heat.
Each time you reuse a locknut of any kind, it’s loses its holding ability just a little bit less. Use your own judgement on the importance of the fastener, (ie. something that if a single component fails it could cause death or injury or catastrophic failure vs. a bracket coming lose being held by 3 other fasteners). If it is important, change it out each time. They are cheap. It could be years before removing the nut is even considered again.
I only agree with you halfway. The point you made about stopping and starting seems valid to me, because static friction is greater than moving friction, however, when you say slow speeds have less friction than high speeds, that is counter to what I know of the topic. The friction coefficient is independent of speed as long as the surface is moving. That is, friction is high when the surface is stationary and then suddenly drops when the surface starts moving.
Very clear video
Thank you for your feedback!
Wish I saw this video first.
I literally used an impact driver the exact same one, high speed and now the nut is stuck halfway and I don’t know what to do.
It won’t come off, frustrating.
Should not use an impact gun. High speed and pounding will gall the threads. That nut will not back off which is crossed threaded. You will need to cut if off with a hacksaw or bolt cutter.
my hex nut won't lock just keeps turning and won't come off either. Do you have any idea how to come off, it's on a major part on my car, trying to hold some cables down.
Not sure
I use nylon nuts a lot and they still come loose, can I use anti-seize on the start of the bolt and lock tight on the base?
I have a bench press and need a socket wrench to install these nylon lock nuts onto the bench, can you please link me a socket wrench on Amazon that works on fitness lock nuts
Wish I knew this before my nylon lock nut got seized up. How do you remove a nylon lock nut that is seized up on a bolt without damaging the bolt?
How could I remove a stripped nylon lock nut. It was torqued to 120 ft lbs. Its size 22mm. BMW. any suggestions would help and save me some trbl. Thanks alot.
James.
how does Ny lock nut works during the movement of
work piece.
As the workpiece vibrates, the nylon of the hex nut uses friction against the threading of the bolt to prevent the nut from losing its grip.
thank you for your reply. it is now well understood the the function of the Ny-lock nut.
How do you remove a nylon lock nut with never seez that keeps spinning
I can think of two ways:
try to wedge a flat-bladed screw driver behind the nut to hold pressure against it while backing it off
cut the nut lengthwise with a hacksaw..then wedge it open a little.
Can the thread on a nut be 'formed' instead of 'cut' ?
And are finer thread pitch ss bolts more likely to gall and seize compared to coarse threads .....?????????
To your first question, Nuts are always cut thread. It's just the way they are manufactured en masse.
To your second question, yes, fine thread bolts are much more likely to gall than coarse thread bolts. There's a lot more surface area on fine thread bolts for galling to occur.
Thanks ! This is the first time I have ever noticed this and I have used them before.
The mfrs must have gotten cheeper
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
11:27 alot of. vibration turning the rims and shaking it up and down 11:34
Thank you for your feedback.