This 5 year old video is much appreciated. SEL came on my 96 S10 ZR2,#2 misfire,changed the plugs and wires,still had the misfire.Yesterday, I replaced my injector harness. After reassembly I had a high idle issue and could not figure out what I screwed up while replacing the harness.I was thinking a vacuum leak.I found your video dealing with high idle issues.Going back over the reassembly in my mind I could not recall reconnecting the plug to the IAC switch.I just came in from removing the breather assembly and there it was,laying there disconnected.I plugged it in and idle is back to normal.Done for the day....thanks again
Thank you! I was afraid to be the only one noticing. Mine are way shorter and I hate grease stuck in them when fixing my truck. I was wondering: What the hell! To much work to keep them clean that long! Or break them.
thanks for the videos dude. ready to jump at this takes to replace the aic and pressure regulator. as soon as I can get the money for the parts lol. gonna clean up the plugs and egr valve while I'm in there to
Dude I had my IAC stuck all the way closed and literally I stalled while driving taking a sharp low speed corner, threw no codes nothing it was a 60 dollar Durlast part that got me for some reason ,I had to 2 foot my truck all the way home , every time I let off the gas stalled and had to threw in nertual quick and give it the beans
I also have a 97 bravada I just changed the plugs and wires and it still running a lil rough. Yes I kind of step on the pedal to accelerate and it felt like it lost power and smelled like gas. Ima replace this part now
@@ericg4915 Yes. The original style lines tend to rub together and wear through. So you lose pressure to the injection nozzles also causing a flooded out affect from the access fuel in the intake
Thanks for the video, my inside is the same as yours at 4:11 did you ever change those? or regulator? Does that cause check engine light? shitty mpg? thanks again
yes I changed the regulator shortly after this video. it will usually cause bad mpg and hard starting in the morning, and if bad enough will cause misfires. I have a video replacing the regulator. look up fuel pressure regulator repair bravada. its the same bravada in this video.
the little cup thing riveted to the throttle body blade broke off on my 97 bravada. Do you know if its OK to drive without it until my replacement arrives? it seems to run fine.
I have a 94 s10 4.3 there's a whistling noise coming from the throttle body and can't tell if it's the iac valve or throttle body gasket there's a spring I can spray wd-40 on and it'll quit. Your help would be very much appreciated thanks
***** if you talking about the throttle cable spring? then it might be the bearing and seal on the rod that the throttle blade is attached to. on both sides theres a bearing and seal. one side its the throttle linkage and the other is the tps sensor. you can just go to the junk yard and get a replacement upper intake plenum that has good bearing and seals. if you take the tps sensor and throttle linkage off, and also the throttle blade you can move the rod back and forth and get a feel for the bearings to see if they grind a bit. also right under the tps sensor there is a vacuum line. if its off or broken it could cause a hiss aswell. could be throttle body gasket.
I have a question idk what the problem is i think its fuel injectors or iac valve i took out the iac valve out taking everything apart to change the fuel injectors and seen that it looks like the wire popped once before i pulled the plug out and it was corroded I pulled the iac valve out and cleaned it and out it back in and its a little better but still the same bogs when i put the petal to the floor trouble starting stalling
240 or I think it might be the 300 piece craftsman tool set. has everything you need from 1/4 to 1/2 inch sockets/ extensions and wrenches. metric and standard. also comes with Allen keys and torx bits. amazing kit. I think it runs about 200-250 at sears. totally worth the price cause you get just about everything you need.
Hi i aint been able to run my 2000 olds bravada do to it being cold but now that its warm out i was able to start it and it runs really rough. I know its got a misfire but when i go to drive it it wants to stall n ill get on it a lil then my service engine light will start to blink when i get over 25mph plus it wont shift outta 2nd or 3rd gear. I did a computer test n it pops up the misfire and a code p0143 O2 sensor circuit low volts (bank 1 sensor 3) could you help. I think its the iac not sure. Thank you
it doesn't sound like a iac problem. if it wont shift out of 2nd or 3rd it could be the tps sensor. with scan tool check tps for smooth increase in % by pressing pedal slowly to the floor. if it drops or is erratic then replace tps. also if engine light is blinking then that means the engine is misfiring. I would start by doing a full tune up. spark plugs wires cap rotor and maby an air filter. po143 is the o2 sensor after the catalytic converter. so that means either the sensor is bad or more likely the catalytic converter is plugged and will need to be replaced. make sure you get a oem cat and not a universal one. if you want you can take the o2 sensor out before the cat and then start it up. if it runs better the cat is plugged and needs a new one. everything kinda points to a plugged cat. hope this helps. also what is the misfire code?
Would this cause my truck to bog down when I give it gas?? I’ve put new plugs,wires,cap,button,fuel pump and filter,new tps, new ignition control module, new temp sensor and wires. An it still has a rough idle and bogs down when I give it gas. Oh I also removed the cat also cause I was told it was stopped up.
I was wondering if anyone would know why my rpms on my 2002 ZR2 would be at 1,000 at idle but on a scan tool it's normal 600rpms. my mileage is of my 5 miles faster on stock size rim and tire. I do know the transmisson has been replaced with a jasper remanufactured one could that be why I need it reprogrammed?
@Apex Smith no I got rid of this pos and bought a toyota tundra. Haven't had any mechanical problems with it at all. And it's got almost 3 times the miles. My ZR2 had 175k when the motor went my tundra has close 380k
might have a vacuum leak. check all hoses for cracks and dry rot. also if its only when it shifts into 2nd and third then maby your throttle position sensor. the tps sensor controls shift points. try unplugging the tps and see if it gets better.
nope just unbolt it and put it on. if you want you could reset the computer by unplugging the negative battery cable for 30 min so the computer will relearn everything since you replaced a few different electrical parts. don't overtighten the tps screws. there very small and going into aluminum.
anywhere from 6-800 rpm. on those 4 cylinders there is a adjustment screw for the idle i think. but first check for any air leaks. like vacuum lines and a faulty idle air control valve.
I have a 2001 chevy blazer with the 4.3. It's idling really rough and stalls out. When I get on the gas when it's parks the idle smoothness out around 1500rpm and when I drive it it's smoothness out around 30-35mph. I just put in new spark plugs and my wires are fine. Do you think it could be the iac valve? Any help would be amazing.
+nathan brumitt I had the same problem and I had to replace the distributor. Actually the distributor gear was all that was wrong but the gear is nearly as expensive as the plastic fantastic distributor so just buy the whole schlamiel and it hopefully will idle smoothly again. It did for me best of luck with your car.
Agreed with the other answer. Clean the EGR valve. Do a vacuum test and a fuel pressure test also. My lean/rough running condition throwing about 5 different codes was due to a dirty MAF.
I had a similar situation with the engine idling at around 1100 RPM. For me, it was the Throttle positon sensor. That doesn'e mean that it will be the same for your car as I'm not trying to tell anyone that their diagnosis is wrong but for me it was the TPS
This 5 year old video is much appreciated. SEL came on my 96 S10 ZR2,#2 misfire,changed the plugs and wires,still had the misfire.Yesterday, I replaced my injector harness. After reassembly I had a high idle issue and could not figure out what I screwed up while replacing the harness.I was thinking a vacuum leak.I found your video dealing with high idle issues.Going back over the reassembly in my mind I could not recall reconnecting the plug to the IAC switch.I just came in from removing the breather assembly and there it was,laying there disconnected.I plugged it in and idle is back to normal.Done for the day....thanks again
Great video what's up with the long fingernails?
Drugs probably
@@user-zk6ko3kf1t ...or he plays guitar.
@@user-zk6ko3kf1t laziness nobody snorts off their nails except in the movies lol
Thank you! I was afraid to be the only one noticing. Mine are way shorter and I hate grease stuck in them when fixing my truck. I was wondering: What the hell! To much work to keep them clean that long! Or break them.
thanks for the videos dude. ready to jump at this takes to replace the aic and pressure regulator. as soon as I can get the money for the parts lol. gonna clean up the plugs and egr valve while I'm in there to
Dude I had my IAC stuck all the way closed and literally I stalled while driving taking a sharp low speed corner, threw no codes nothing it was a 60 dollar Durlast part that got me for some reason ,I had to 2 foot my truck all the way home , every time I let off the gas stalled and had to threw in nertual quick and give it the beans
I also have a 97 bravada I just changed the plugs and wires and it still running a lil rough. Yes I kind of step on the pedal to accelerate and it felt like it lost power and smelled like gas. Ima replace this part now
Having same issue like your you ever fix it?
Thank you
Thanks for the video!
Yeah that fuel spider leaking would cause idle problems. "Stumbling " Also oil consumption
Could it cause a hard start/long crank or potentially no start? Assuming fuel pressure is good
@@ericg4915 Yes. The original style lines tend to rub together and wear through. So you lose pressure to the injection nozzles also causing a flooded out affect from the access fuel in the intake
Thanks for the video, my inside is the same as yours at 4:11 did you ever change those? or regulator? Does that cause check engine light? shitty mpg? thanks again
yes I changed the regulator shortly after this video. it will usually cause bad mpg and hard starting in the morning, and if bad enough will cause misfires. I have a video replacing the regulator. look up fuel pressure regulator repair bravada. its the same bravada in this video.
Thanks... regulator.
the little cup thing riveted to the throttle body blade broke off on my 97 bravada. Do you know if its OK to drive without it until my replacement arrives? it seems to run fine.
MadMannMatt1 oh no its fine. actually it will give better performance with it off. some people cut theirs off.
I have a 94 s10 4.3 there's a whistling noise coming from the throttle body and can't tell if it's the iac valve or throttle body gasket there's a spring I can spray wd-40 on and it'll quit. Your help would be very much appreciated thanks
***** if you talking about the throttle cable spring? then it might be the bearing and seal on the rod that the throttle blade is attached to. on both sides theres a bearing and seal. one side its the throttle linkage and the other is the tps sensor. you can just go to the junk yard and get a replacement upper intake plenum that has good bearing and seals. if you take the tps sensor and throttle linkage off, and also the throttle blade you can move the rod back and forth and get a feel for the bearings to see if they grind a bit. also right under the tps sensor there is a vacuum line. if its off or broken it could cause a hiss aswell. could be throttle body gasket.
I'm not all that experienced with the 4.3L but "whistling" reminds me of a leaky EGR or EGR gasket that I've heard from other engines.
I have a question idk what the problem is i think its fuel injectors or iac valve i took out the iac valve out taking everything apart to change the fuel injectors and seen that it looks like the wire popped once before i pulled the plug out and it was corroded I pulled the iac valve out and cleaned it and out it back in and its a little better but still the same bogs when i put the petal to the floor trouble starting stalling
Its a 4.3 v6 1999 chevy silverado
Clifton Mancias you ever fix it? Same problem here with 92 s10 4.3
good job man. thanks. what tool set would you reccomend for an auto mechanic apprentice?
240 or I think it might be the 300 piece craftsman tool set. has everything you need from 1/4 to 1/2 inch sockets/ extensions and wrenches. metric and standard. also comes with Allen keys and torx bits. amazing kit. I think it runs about 200-250 at sears. totally worth the price cause you get just about everything you need.
its a 255 piece tool set from craftsman. just looked it up
Awesome, thanks that is price is doable especially for the work Ill be doing. cheers!
@@bam6972 what is sears?
Hi i aint been able to run my 2000 olds bravada do to it being cold but now that its warm out i was able to start it and it runs really rough. I know its got a misfire but when i go to drive it it wants to stall n ill get on it a lil then my service engine light will start to blink when i get over 25mph plus it wont shift outta 2nd or 3rd gear. I did a computer test n it pops up the misfire and a code p0143 O2 sensor circuit low volts (bank 1 sensor 3) could you help. I think its the iac not sure. Thank you
it doesn't sound like a iac problem. if it wont shift out of 2nd or 3rd it could be the tps sensor. with scan tool check tps for smooth increase in % by pressing pedal slowly to the floor. if it drops or is erratic then replace tps. also if engine light is blinking then that means the engine is misfiring. I would start by doing a full tune up. spark plugs wires cap rotor and maby an air filter. po143 is the o2 sensor after the catalytic converter. so that means either the sensor is bad or more likely the catalytic converter is plugged and will need to be replaced. make sure you get a oem cat and not a universal one. if you want you can take the o2 sensor out before the cat and then start it up. if it runs better the cat is plugged and needs a new one. everything kinda points to a plugged cat. hope this helps. also what is the misfire code?
Would this cause my truck to bog down when I give it gas?? I’ve put new plugs,wires,cap,button,fuel pump and filter,new tps, new ignition control module, new temp sensor and wires. An it still has a rough idle and bogs down when I give it gas. Oh I also removed the cat also cause I was told it was stopped up.
I was wondering if anyone would know why my rpms on my 2002 ZR2 would be at 1,000 at idle but on a scan tool it's normal 600rpms. my mileage is of my 5 miles faster on stock size rim and tire. I do know the transmisson has been replaced with a jasper remanufactured one could that be why I need it reprogrammed?
did you ever figure out the issue?
@Apex Smith no I got rid of this pos and bought a toyota tundra. Haven't had any mechanical problems with it at all. And it's got almost 3 times the miles. My ZR2 had 175k when the motor went my tundra has close 380k
Does my blazer have one 2002
I have a 99 jimmy, I changed my iac and the rpm is high when it gets to 2nd and 3rd gear. Would you know why
might have a vacuum leak. check all hoses for cracks and dry rot. also if its only when it shifts into 2nd and third then maby your throttle position sensor. the tps sensor controls shift points. try unplugging the tps and see if it gets better.
bam6972 I bought a tps do I gotta do anything before or after installing it
nope just unbolt it and put it on. if you want you could reset the computer by unplugging the negative battery cable for 30 min so the computer will relearn everything since you replaced a few different electrical parts. don't overtighten the tps screws. there very small and going into aluminum.
bam6972 thanks man its running better now with the new tps sensor
cool.. glad I could help
Does onyone know where this IAC valve is located on a 94 W code 4.3?? MPFI I think... maybe CPI.. Heeeelp!
top left of throttle plate
what is the normal rpms for a sonoma 96 2.2l manual transmission?.. does anyone know just bought this truck and it idles at 1500 hot or cold..
anywhere from 6-800 rpm. on those 4 cylinders there is a adjustment screw for the idle i think. but first check for any air leaks. like vacuum lines and a faulty idle air control valve.
where would i find the screw do you know?....yeah i was going to replace the iac valve next
it should be next to the throttle cable somewhere. if it has always been high when you first got it maby somebody turned it in to far.
Sorry for The Late Response but Yea It Helped And The Misfire Code Is P0300
I have a 2001 chevy blazer with the 4.3. It's idling really rough and stalls out. When I get on the gas when it's parks the idle smoothness out around 1500rpm and when I drive it it's smoothness out around 30-35mph. I just put in new spark plugs and my wires are fine. Do you think it could be the iac valve? Any help would be amazing.
i would try cleaning the egr valve. and check the tps sensor for a smooth steady sweep. just search my
youtube channel for those videos
+nathan brumitt I had the same problem and I had to replace the distributor. Actually the distributor gear was all that was wrong but the gear is nearly as expensive as the plastic fantastic distributor so just buy the whole schlamiel and it hopefully will idle smoothly again. It did for me best of luck with your car.
Agreed with the other answer. Clean the EGR valve. Do a vacuum test and a fuel pressure test also. My lean/rough running condition throwing about 5 different codes was due to a dirty MAF.
I had a similar situation with the engine idling at around 1100 RPM. For me, it was the Throttle positon sensor. That doesn'e mean that it will be the same for your car as I'm not trying to tell anyone that their diagnosis is wrong but for me it was the TPS
yea..... lol
T-20..not 220
yes no shit!
Hold the cam steady. Dont care to see your tool chest
That was a "remove and replace" job, not repair.
ok you poor ass hick