I have been doing mechanic work for 40+ years and that is the best video on this topic I have ever seen! I think all the "thumb downs" are because this video was not what they were looking for. Thanks for a great and thorough job on the video!!
I generally find the thumbs down counter on my videos is useful in letting me know how many idiots viewed the video. It's like.... useless but fascinating trivia
I have done this install incorrectly so many times I feel like an expert. Even multiple auto shops with so called experts have not done this correctly on my truck I finally figured it out with a combination of elbow grease, baking my noodle, and listening to this fantastic video. The oil shaft slot was what perplexed me. I assumed you couldn't turn that slot thinking it was solid to the timing of the motor. AMATEUR TIP: if you are doing this in a full size 1500 truck: You will not be able to feel the slot with a screwdriver easily or even wedge one in there due to lack of space. Instead, take apart the old distributor and use just the long rod with the rotor wheel on it. USE THAT AS THE SCREWDRIVER. It's must easier to find the slot since it's the rod is machined to be a perfect fit. Also, draw a line on the rotor to show you where the slot is pointed.
Not only is this a good video, your heart is in what you do and you can feel it. What is so interesting is the Tonka toy like simplicity of the design. It ain't so simple with other distributors, and I know that from experience. The oil pump slot would get to me. The explanation of orientation is absolutely the most efficient and intuitive aspect of this video. You did a splendid job.
Great video, my buddy bought a new distributor and put it in hisself and got it out of time, I watched the video whilst re-installing new distributor and worked like a charm......thanks, keep up the good work
Hands down the best video on this, on the internet. A genuine thank you for making this for us all, and if you need further explanation after watching this, you probably should pay someone else to do this for you. Because you couldn’t ask for an easier to understand explanation on this.
Joshua Curiale It is one of my first videos and still my most popular. You would think with a common engine as this, there would many videos on this subject. Glad it helped.
Thanks for the video. It solved a problem for this 67 year old mechanic. I placed the pointer where the #1 was marked on the cap and it would not start after I rebuilt the engine. Now I know why. I have built many chevy engines in times past with the old distributor but this is my first new type.
This video is very detailed and helpful. my 99 4.3 was missing and backfiring for awhile. I put new plug wires, new cap and rotor. still no help. wasn't until I replaced the whole distributor did my problems go away! I ordered one from EBay for $44. this video made the install a breeze! if your having misfire issues I recommend replacement. take an hour of your time and do this simple repair. thanks so much! BTW, I'm no mechanic but by following this procedure it was simple! watch this a few times and good luck!!
I will say, that my new distributor did not have the factory line on it to align it before I installed it. so when I removed the old one, I simply used it as a pattern to make my own mark. simple idea
This is without doubt the very best video of installing a distributor in a Vortec. While I have been working on cars for going on 50 years I messed up in working on my Vortec 5.7 and watched at least 25 confusing videos before finding this one - Clear, knowledgeable and full of information not otherwise known or seen on any other videos -- saved me hours of wasted work and was clear and concise-- Thank you for this excellent and very professional instructional video
Hey sir. Appreciate all that you do. Have become a better technician thanks to your teaching videos. Have some learning problems so I have no formal training. You have helped me a long way. That being said. I recently fought a vortec distributor install. As in your scenario. It was out of time when towed in to me. I spent way to much time trying to drop it in. Changed my way of thinking. You know outside the box. Brought it up to number one. Went underneath rotated to next mark on crank pulley in relation to crank sensor. Dropped distributor in at number six. Had wife bump it over until oil pump shaft lined up. Bolted everything up and done. Without your previous teaching methods. My tunnel vision would most likely have continued. Again. Thank you for what you do.
THANKS!! Backyard mechanic that would have struggled with the oil pump shaft without your explicit directions. Bought it and had it in in one hour, 15 minutes which was lining up the shaft. Thanks again!!!
no need to fight with the oil pump shaft. simply drop it in place, hold the distributor down with your hand, or loosely install the hold down bolt. then turn the engine over by hand, and eventually it will fall right into place. even with the shaft not engaged on the oil pump, the drive gear engages the cam gear enough where they rotate in harmony. you won't lose timing. good vid
Robert Perez Do exactly as I stated in my post above. Drop the distributor in, and when it falls as far down as it will go, turn the engine over at the crank pulley, after a couple of spins, it will fall right in.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) thx gabe I'm going t o have to do that after dropping I realized I'm off due to the fact of having code p0016 correlation of crank and can so I must be off. Also my distributor didnt come with any scribe or paint mark indicating the set back from cylinder 6 on distributor do you know what the set back is supposed to be because right now I'm just guessing and if I knew the set back I could do it the way you described above thank you for your help
@Dungorm-Couple things come to mind- with bad bearings in the distributor coming first as you suspect- removal of dist and inspection should reveal that. worn teeth either on dist gear or cam gear could also explain. Also, the body of the dist is a snug fit in the intake hole- on either side of the intake hole are small oil holes-dist body not fitting snug will lower pressure here, although this hole also feeds the upper cylinder heads- if you have some valve chatter too I'd suspect this.
Schrodingers Box hello I have a 97 blazer 4.3 and after finding tdc and setting distributer the rotor prong was facing to the number 1 spark plug. It cranks and runs fine.
I graduated from Wyoming Tech some years back.Very good explanation. I just happen to be going in with a vortec and need to install that distributor after replacing crank. Thank you for this vid, saved me a pain, very well explained and put together.
Great Video, helped a lot... I had to remove mine for the first time in 2008 to change the intake gaskets for leaking coolant. It took me two attempts to get it seated. TJ
Ive looked all over youtube and ive seen multiple vids on the topic. This is by far the best explained. No shaking the camara, everythings clear. Only thing is would have been cool to see #1 piston being set to top center. Still a great vid. Ill be trying this myself when this new distributor comes in. Thanks, im subscribing.
Sir, I was at the brink of desperation until I found your video and gave it "just one last try". Well, I am glad to say that I was able to finally fix this darn issue haha. Thanks a lot! Who would have thought such an old truck had such a distinct way of installing the distributor.
Thanks for the comment and hopefully the new cap fixed it, Chris. If not, On a P0300 it is very possible a fuel delivery problem could be the issue as well as many other things. Unfortunately without seeing on a scantool which cylinders are misfiring it can be very difficult to diagnose. For example, if it turns out all the cylinders on just one bank are mifiring you can rule out many more possibilities than if the misifires are random through the whole engine. Good luck!
I found a way easier method to install. Once you get TDC., take a picture with your phone to see where the top of the gear then just match the distributor up with the picture. Drops right in and lines up on the number 6
@Randy- This video assumes that the timing is off to start with so there are no additional steps. Just make sure you are on TDC compression stroke #1 (i.e. you feel air coming out of #1 spark plug hole when turning engine over by hand and bring piston to highest point) and follow the video and you're good to go. If you still have a timing problem it won't be from distributer installation, it would be from cam/crank misalignment ( timing chain problem ).
Hey Matt. On the vortex v6, there are 13 teeth on the distributor gear. Thus, 360 degrees / 13 teeth = 27.7 degrees per tooth. If you are at TDC, any misalignment should be blatantly obvious if you are off even a single tooth. On my 2000 Vortec v6, I am somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees off on the distributor mark while at TDC (verified absolute top on #1 with horoscope). This is the closest I can get, any other tooth alignment will be ~28 degrees away. Now, maybe I have something else going on (timing chain)? Also, on some vehicles, it is almost impossible to line up a screwdriver head with the slot the oil pump shaft through a blind hole (abyss) in the rear of the engine, underneath hvac lines and wiring. Once you get first distributor engagement with the cam teeth, but before the oil pump shaft is aligned, you can manually turn the crank until the distributor aligns itself with the oil pump shaft - gravity will cause the distributor to set in place, then you can bolt it down.
Excellent deductions! Yes even off one tooth it is indeed blatantly obvious for the reason you stated. If you continually find it is impossible to line up when doing this correctly, I agree you may need to chaeck your crank and cam timing relationship. Also yes, it takes "feel" to adjust the oil pump shaft- on this model you cannot see it. A strategically placed mirror can be used to help but it's tricky working with a mirror image!
My 2000 silverado vortec 6 cylinder has an o-ring on the distrubutor, but it is intended to seal the distributor housing to the engine (hole is in the Intake manifold as i recall). There is no Oring between the distributor and the cap, nor would i want one in my engine.
exactly, the drive gear is very coarse so if you're off, you'll easily see it... just pull out the distributor but first mark where the rotor is pointing first... Then just put it back in the way it was pointing. Now this doesn't check the timing, but just gets you back where it was.
@@SchrodingersBox there was no room under my cowl for even a mirror, I ended upusing my iphone held over top so I could see the driveand then adjusted with a screwdriver inside a lenth of conduit
Hey man just wanted to say thanks.. This is about the best vid I have seen that is the most correct and with the most info.. Just wanted to say thanks again.. GOOD JOB!!!!
I took apart a carpenters square. Because the ruler is long enough and it will fit into the slot on the oil pump drive slot. Having the ruler in place I was able to see which way to turn it. You first have to look at the bottom of the distributor shaft after you line up the rotor tip to the 6 marking on the distributor housing.
@Eric- Thanks for the comment. My guess is you probably forgot to plug in the electrical connector at the distributer when you re-installed. If that's not the case, then most certainly the distributer was not installed properly. Make certain you are at TDC Cyl#1 on COMPRESSION stroke and verify the pointers on the distributer line up as shown. Other than that you must have disturbed some other electrical connection. In particular check the large plug at top of engine for the fuel injectors.
Deric, indeed this is exactly why I like to "start fresh" with installing the distributer at TDC every time. Even if you do mark the distributer's original position accurately AND reinstall it exactly, this assumes the distributer was in correct position to begin with (maybe not as much an issue if it's your own car, but I usually get cars from people who gave up trying on their own and who knows what they've done!!!). I hope this video helped you. I do hate inaccurate repair manuals lol!!!
Marylanduman, if you're certain the old distributer was properly installed then you won't have to set the motor to TDC- just make marks where the old rotor lined up before you removed it and as long as the new distributer lines up the same way you are good. Remember the paintmark and dimple I show on the shaft/drivegear are used if motor is at TDC. I would recommend scribing a mark on the old distributer showing its orientation when you removed it so this can be used as an intsall reference.
I just set my distributor and it was backfiring through the exhaust. I completely forgot that fact about the vortec distributor cap. Thank you now I can get it running again.
Great write up. It helped me organize my thoughts to reassemble the motor. I used a compression gauge to cylinder number one along with chalk marks on harmonic balancer. Aligning the oil pump shaft proved a little tricky for me. I couldn't get the screw driver head into the slot. So I took a piece of 1/2 inch electrical conduit about 8.5" long and dropped it over the shaft. The screw driver could pick it up real easy then.
Thank you for a great video tutorial that helped me install my distributor which ended up helping me get 2 more years of service from my 2004 Chevy Blazer X engine code, I wish I was smart enough to follow you more regularly I believe my truck would be RUNNING WELL instead of being on blocks. I got it running but didn't correct the check engine situation. I didn't know how, cuz I have been a parts changer. I really appreciate your approach to a scientific step by step / logic process, intuitive approach. I'm learning a lot from you, but there is a lot to learn, and a few tools I'll need.
Anyone that is wondering about this video, Matt is dead on with his info. If and when you use this info, follow it to the letter and when you go to start your motor it will fire and run on the first try as long as there is no other problems. Good job Matt, thank you for honest advice.
@Vee Em, sorry for the late reply- I was busy for a couple weeks and thanks so much for subscribing. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the 94 Vortec which indeed has several fundamental differences from the 2001 model in the video. Therefore, I'm afraid I can't confidently advise on your installation. Hopefully someone will make a similar video on your model but it won't be me as I really only work on 96-up (OBD-2) models due to my scan tool's limitations to those models. Good luck!
your attention to detail is second to none, and that is needed when working with this unconventional cap/firing orientation. You made it idiot proof! Thank You!
I just got done swapping an engine on a 99 express van with the 5.0 vortec and I had to remove the distributor for clearance and I thought I marked everything I had to put it back on, but after watching this video, I think this is why the won't fire up, I get spark but it's not consistent it pauses. I'm going to try to set the engine to TDC for cylinder 1 and install the distributor the way you showed hopefully she fires up thank your videos they are very helpful
...my number 1 way off. Thanks to this video it was a breeze. This was my first time working on something this new. Just wanted to say thanks and keep up the good work. Your correct terminology really makes it easier.
@NewECus-Thanks for the comment. I think you are right on with the timing light idea, it's a reasonable start but I'm thinking you won't find it as definitive as the distributer pointer method shown in the video. With car warmed up you should be at about 12deg at idle so make a paint mark on the timing plate there and see if you're in the ballpark. The timing is adjusted by computer. If distributer has ever been replaced, I’d reinstall it as shown first. These cars have timing chains, btw.
Another thing that can cause spark ignition issues is the cap and rotor check the cap for corrosion and arcing. This video did help me a lot the with Alignment of the ignition timing. Thank you!
Wow, Im astonished. I have a 4.3 apart for an intake gasket right now, didnt notice a thing about the dist. Watched this video for the hell of it. My only thoughts up to this point was "I need to find my old timing light when I go back together". Thnx, great info!!!
great video had a mis fire problem changed spider injection new ignition coil and distributor rotor and cap thanks to your videos i fixed the problem myself saved me alot of time and money. thank you.
Thank you so much for posting this video, I was stuck on how to install my distributor I was searching for help on youtube but not body was very clear as you explained so clearly.
@Moises- Not sure what to say about that- it should turn very easily. In fact it's common practice to spin this shaft with an electric drill to build pressure after a rebuild- there should be no resistance with the screwdriver. Possibly you are missing the actual oil pump shaft and getting the screwdriver stuck in the camshaft? Otherwise, you have some problems with the oil pump I would say!! It should even turn easily in the "wrong" direction in fact!
@bjmmckinney- Thanks for the comment. I am sure there are probably some aftermarket distributers that won't have the "6" or "8" marked but I find it impossible that they wouldn't have the arrow. If it didn't have the arrow that would make things more challenging but not impossible. If it doesn't have the arrow let me know and I'll tell you how to verify you have correct positioning.
Matt, This video helped tremendously with my Chevy 4.3 but I did mine just a bit different. Since I had a hard A/C line directly above the distributor, I didn't want to be removing and replacing the distributor in order to line up the oil pump drive. My solution. I noticed that each time I lifted the distributor and replaced it the oil pump drive would move just a few degrees. So with the engine at known TDC on the compression stroke I realized that if I lifted and replaced the distributor enough times eventually it would settle in with the rotor pointed at the 6 mark. Took maybe 7 or 8 times but it finally worked out perfectly with the rotor pointing directly at the 6. As a check I rolled the engine over twice and each time I reached TDC the rotor was perfectly aligned with the 6! Engine fired right up with no codes or miss fires. Again I want to thank you for giving me the basic idea for getting the timing correct!
It's a great strategy and in fact a validated one. Indeed there is an established technique which I call "walking" and it basically is as you said- eventually the distributer will have to end up in its correct position eventually but it may take as many times as there are teeth! You can speed up the walking by setting the distributer exactly 180 degrees off after each walk. In other words, when you lift the distributer and it turns slightly as you described, turn it 180 degrees from where it is and insert it. Then lift again and set it 180 degrees again. This gets you in the final position in half the time.
Interesting. That thought did occur to me after I was done. Honestly while I was doing it I wasn't even sure it would work, so I just took the slow and steady approach. I want to thank you again for the basic idea and knowledge. You got me "pointed" in the right direction!
@Mike- I'm you sure you meant Escalade- never been in an Escapade though I recall Janet Jackson inviting me on one about 15 years ago. Nonetheless, to the best of my knowledge, unlike most engines with adjustable distributers, the Cadillac 5.7 does not have timing marks over the crankshaft pulley and thus a timing light will be next to useless. On such models the "proper" way to time is to look at camshaft timing with a scantool as the distributer is adjusted.
The rotor can be installed in only one position to the distributor , due to the locating tabs underneath the rotor next to the mounting screws holes. The locating tabs are offset from the mounting screws holes.great vid 👍
Yes that is true for any rotor on any distributor. . The point is the position of the rotor RELATIVE TO FIRING POSITION varies upon engagement with the cam.
I followed the hanes book , which did not give the v notch and harmonics. I had noticed the slot in the bottom which is not mentioned and figured what u showed was what was happening with the time. thanks for the proof...
I have a 2000 Blazer 4.3L I had to to replace the intake gasket 3 years ago. I wasn't that comfortable tackling this job at home but my mechanic neighbour needed cash and said he would do it. We had the intake off so we decided to replace the original rocker cover gaskets and OEM distributor where the insert moulded screw knuckles had cracked the distributor base plate and we opted for the after market distributor with a solid metal base plate to avoid future failure. My neighbour and I messed with that distributor for a few hours reverting to TDC alignment and could not get rid of a code it was setting. We finally recruited another neighbour who worked at the local GM dealer. He got the code cleared with my Tech2 stating we had to initialize the new distributor / sensor. I guess in your video this was not applicable if you were using the same distributor but I thought it may be a helpful hint if someone was replacing their distributor. BTW: your videos are awesome.
Seems most comments are about confusion on TDC, marks aligned and #1 comp. vs. exhaust.When you pull out your dist. (if it hasn't stripped inside somewhere) just take off your cap. align the 6 to the rotor and put the new one in the same. If your wanting second confirm the marks should line up the fist balancer mark underneath to the mark on the timing cover (that's seen easily from underneath) and the second mark lining up to the mark from above (also on the timing cover, harder to see).....there are two marks and two lines on the balancer.Also..lots of reman. dist. have the dimples installed wrong, you're just going to have to play them as dealt or return for another. Matt, your vids are great for us backyard mech. I thought I'd have to give up working on cars years ago because of all the library research it involved but the interwebs and guys like you saved the day.
I greatly appreciate your thorough, orderly instructions. I successfully replaced the distributor in my '05 Silverado 4.3 Vortec with 97K. The symptom was intermittent spark on #4 cylinder - which was challenging to diagnose. What I found was a significantly worn gear on distributor shaft. I used a Delco OEM distributor with all necessary markings. Thank you Matt !!!!!
Hey Eric if your still having problems, I found out why so many people go insane working on this project. If your at tdc, mark one on the crank as explained here, but your not lining up on the six, the rotors just before it or just after it, that is the exhaust stroke, so just turn the crank another 360 degrees, pick the distributor up and move it back half way between two full drop down spots until your (screwdriver not needed then). once to the other side, viola you just need starting fluid.
@Juarezvivo- Wow you got me on that one. Are you sure the mark on the distributer doesn't say 8 but maybe part of it is rubbed off? Either way... as long as you have 8 posts on the distributer cap (well, 9 including the coil post) then I wouldn't worry about it at all.
The mounting tabs on mine were broken, so my cap was just sitting on there, Surprises it still ran, I'm doing this tommorrow with a new distributor, thanks for the vid!
Hey Matt, first off thanks for the video. I found it to be very helpful and had more information then my repair manual. so people know why their engines not starting. If your tdc on the balancer, but your not lining up on the six, your just before it or just after it that is the exhaust stroke, so just turn the crank another 360 degrees and line it up until it's lined up with the "6". 95-97 has no white line so line this up right before the screw hole before the six and your rotor will line up.
Very awesome video and explanation of this...I was in the "old school" method and tried about 6 times until fully watching this...Thanks a million!!!!!!!!
great video very informative but you did not show how to set #1 to t.d.c. but once i got that issue resolved this video was a great help thank you. im only pulling the distributor because i had low oil pressure and knew that the oil pump could not be the problem. I found that the old distributor was wearing from rubbing the intake and leaning to one side causing low oil pressure.
I have watched this video, a few times, and your explanation, is the best, I have an 01, express conversion van, with a 4.3, and I have to replace, the intake manifold gasket, so I know, I will be watching it again, a few more times, thank for sharing your knowledge, I'm not looking forward to this, but it has to be done, great job, thank you!!!!!!!!
Sir, I cant thank you enough!!! I watched another video months ago in regard to the intake manifold gasket replacement (common with this engine) and I started doing the work, and completely forgot to mark my distributor before taking it off. Idiot move on my part for sure. So I then had to look up a video on how to TDC cylinder 1, and reset the distributor. Well when I watched his video he never mentioned that oil drive gear. So on install I was fighting with it to get it in. I got it in but it was just slightly off. The truck still ran, but has a misfire. So I started looking up new videos and came upon yours. Rewatched the install and did the work. Runs fine now. Great video! You helped me out on this flaw for sure!!! I cant thank you enough.
Yes the infamous corrected cap that is notorious for cross firing from one cyl to another and causing havoc with these particular engines anytime I have any issues w bad running if at all or any misfire issues it's the first thing I try I have on hand what I know to be a good one just for this I remove the old one replace w the one I know to be good if the problem goes away bingo I go. And buy a new cap and rotor for the engine and in at least 75 % of the cases it's a wrap and off we go for another idk how many thousand miles but yes this is the most informative video I've seen on this subject by far and the very best explanation of how to do it follow his recommendation to the letter exactly and you will have success if not to the letter and its even the slightest bit off one tooth it will not run now you have to start all over again as well, finding tdc on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke of no 1 cyl just remember the distributor only turns at half. The speed of the crankshaft it takes two complete revolutions of the crank to get one revolution of the distributor that is where most people get very confused and end up having all kinds of problems wrenches being thrown cussing and often. Times maybe some bleeding from skinned knuckles it happens dont laugh it is a true story lol no one compression stroke if it's the exhaust stroke and you line all this up it will not run and may even do some crazy popping and huffing and jumping around its. Not good for it. At all so do it right guys do it once take your time dont get in a hurry or flustered the oil pump can be a pain but again take your time and make sure its lined up correctly and whatever you do make sure the bolt is in to hold down the distributor before you try to start it again dont laugh I've seen this happen the distributor will want to be pushed up once it does start if you even Get that far and bad things happen very quickly to gears and oil pump shafts if this step is missed just be thorough and take your time guys it's not that hard to do really honest I've done hundreds on old school small blocks and this Is the very same exact thing except the cap is different and no 1 is in a different place gone is the having to refer to the firing order of 18436572 that Is a thing of the past on the vortec the cap takes care of that for you with that crazy looking cap that gives us so many problems lol sorry rambling smoke another one eh lmao have fun and stay dirty and no I'm not Eric the car guy
This guy matt knows his shit.I had changed my stock Distributor with an alum. base.Distributor.This distributor is a lot harder to install compared to the Hei distributor.It took me awhile on how to changed it.But got it done.
Working on a distributer like this (I have a Blazer with a 4.3) is a new experience for me. I'm used to the ones that can be adjusted. Thanks for the tips! It'll be a snap now.
Ii know u got me out of my fear afew years ago when i replaced head gaskets on my 2000 chevy blazer 4.3 scared to death id never get it right myself i give u a vary vary big thums way up and bless u and a happy 2020 thanksgiving
Hahaha, man the first time i ever replaced head gaskets I had to do it 3 times before I finally figured out the head was warped. Sounds like you are on a way better track than I was!!!
Thank you sir for the excellent video, and special thanks to commentor Gabriel Velazquez who saved my bacon when I was fighting with the oil pump engagement. I could not see into that hole and I fought it for several hours trying to get a screwdriver in there and adjust it by feel, with no success. I then remembered a comment on here about a different approach (Gabriel V's) which I re-read, and using his method (install the distributor in the correct position and then rotate the engine manually until it seats on the oil pump) I had the new distributor correctly seated and fastened down in about 15 minutes. Cranked right up, no codes, runs great.
Thank You so much for this video! I pulled my distributor out of my 1999 suburban, and forgot to mark it, when I was doing a head job on the engine. Anyway I was in a panic until I saw your video, and I followed your steps exactly, and the engine fired up perfectly, you saved me a lot of time, thank you so much for your instruction!!! Great Job!!
Dude, that was an awesome video, you anticipated all of my questions including the appearance of the rotor not pointing towards the number one spark plug wire connection.
Ok watched your video ( twice to make sure ) and sure enough the rotor lined up just like you're in your video. started right up !!!! You Exsplained it perfectly ..Ty Godspeed
Good vid-Do your self a favor and use the old distributor shaft and just grind off the gear on the distributor. Makes getting a hold of the oil pump drive and getting it lined up with new distributor much easier. I just had a hard time getting a screwdriver engaged and trying to move the oil pump drive shaft just a small amount with engine in Sonoma. My Chinese distributor didn't have paint mark so I just used a piece of string to measure from paint mark reference on old distributor to arrow reference on old distributor and transferred the dimension to China distributor. One final note-if you get the distributor 180 degrees out of phase(you're on the exhaust stroke) you wont get any spark. You could also buy an engine priming tool.
You can make a tool to align the oil pump tang with the slot in the distributor that wiorks better than a scredriver. Take a piece of hardwood dowel, cut a slot in the end, and slip it down into the hole. Wiggle it around until the oil pump tang goes into the slot in the dowel. You may have to remove and reinstall the distributer a few times to get both the oil pump slot and the rotor to both align properly.
Great video I'm going out right now and give it a shot ive got a 2001olds bravada v6 there is a small single wire tan with a white stripe and I can't find where it goes just wondering if it's some kind of accessorie plug or not if someone else is reading comments I'd really appreciate it
Explaining that the rotor does not point to where the number one wire is located, that is awesome! The other videos pass right over that little detail. Most other videos go off on a tangent. Too many try to be cute and funny and way too much talk. We don't care why they are replacing the distributor.
I done a upper intake gasket on a Chevy blazer it ran fine before but after the gasket install the engine has a knock I'm not the only one that has run into this prob nothing fell into the intake rags we're covered the whole plenum double checked before the intake went back oil was and antifreeze was drained before disassembly. Plus there is a catch in the engine when hand rotation but not with turning it over it runs fine no misses just that knock. Like I said I've read there has been others on other forums ran into same prob
The second mark, or the one further advanced clockwise is for lining up from underneath the truck, in my ‘99 full size pickup the engine practically sits under the cab and the front is covered with so much stuff you can’t see the upper mark and the timing cover, so reaching up from underneath with a wrench is an option for doing this - I did not put my truck on high enough ramps to comfortably do it from below so I got frustrated and just removed all the fan and housing/ belt etc to use the top mark, but the other mark lines up on the bottom to another point - I slapped some white touch up paint into the top mark so it will never be difficult to locate again
Matt, THANK YOU SO MUCH for the video!!!!!! It helped my ignorant ass tremendously. Is it possible to add a few comments......? I hope so, and please do not take this wrong. 1) As for people like myself, might wanna include to put the vehicle in neutral (DAMN, THAT MOTOR WAS EASIER TO TURN OVER!!!!), 2) I used the alternator to turn the engine instead of the flywheel, 3) To fit the screwdriver into the slot for the oil pump, I used instead the lever bar on a small mechanical/hydraulic floor jack. The slots are identical, and there is THE PIN used to relieve the pressure to lower the bar....? Can be your guide to "line up" the slot correctly. Got my 2000 Chevy S10 on TDC. Thanks again Matt.........
I will add to that to just go ahead and pull out all the sparkplugs to begin with, I too had left my manual in low gear (habit) and wondered wtf trying to spin it over lol; but I also learned that turning the crank bolt with a ratched not so easy while fighting the other 5 cycles of compression - because of this I realized also that the spark plugs I replaced maybe 30000 miles ago are shot already, the centrepins melted down the gap is approx 67 thou ! The factory set I changed around 100000 miles didn’t look near as bad. The factory used double platinum and the centre pins were large, when I changed them it was recommended to me to “upgrade” them to irridium plugs with a finer centre wire - needless to say I will be going back to the double platinum this time around.
update: i installed my dizzy this am and shes running great so far, thanks for the video. I never had to mess with tdc, i just used my old roter with my marks,i will prob eventually get a new roter.
I have been doing mechanic work for 40+ years and that is the best video on this topic I have ever seen! I think all the "thumb downs" are because this video was not what they were looking for.
Thanks for a great and thorough job on the video!!
I generally find the thumbs down counter on my videos is useful in letting me know how many idiots viewed the video. It's like.... useless but fascinating trivia
@@SchrodingersBoxROBBIE
I have done this install incorrectly so many times I feel like an expert. Even multiple auto shops with so called experts have not done this correctly on my truck I finally figured it out with a combination of elbow grease, baking my noodle, and listening to this fantastic video. The oil shaft slot was what perplexed me. I assumed you couldn't turn that slot thinking it was solid to the timing of the motor.
AMATEUR TIP: if you are doing this in a full size 1500 truck: You will not be able to feel the slot with a screwdriver easily or even wedge one in there due to lack of space. Instead, take apart the old distributor and use just the long rod with the rotor wheel on it. USE THAT AS THE SCREWDRIVER. It's must easier to find the slot since it's the rod is machined to be a perfect fit. Also, draw a line on the rotor to show you where the slot is pointed.
Not only is this a good video, your heart is in what you do and you can feel it. What is so interesting is the Tonka toy like simplicity of the design. It ain't so simple with other distributors, and I know that from experience. The oil pump slot would get to me. The explanation of orientation is absolutely the most efficient and intuitive aspect of this video. You did a splendid job.
Thank you so much!
Great video, my buddy bought a new distributor and put it in hisself and got it out of time, I watched the video whilst re-installing new distributor and worked like a charm......thanks, keep up the good work
Ya guy don’t no what he’s doing it’s cyl 4 to set tdc and ya 45 def install hate this shit I’m lucky I pulled the manual
This was the best information I could have found. I felt nervous starting this project, but now I feel confident!
Hands down the best video on this, on the internet. A genuine thank you for making this for us all, and if you need further explanation after watching this, you probably should pay someone else to do this for you.
Because you couldn’t ask for an easier to understand explanation on this.
Thank you for posting, I've been trying to set the timing on my Express and this is the only clear, concise video on here.
Joshua Curiale It is one of my first videos and still my most popular. You would think with a common engine as this, there would many videos on this subject. Glad it helped.
I did my distributor the other night, it fired up and ran without throwing a code, this is a great resource.
This is how you do a instructional video!!!! I feel like I am watching the GMC engineer who designed this thing . Thanks.
Amen right that was pretty good wow best I've seen in a while wow
Lol
If this were a GM engineer, it wouldn't make any sense. The video does make sense though, so I know it's just a really smart guy here to help me.
Thanks for the video. It solved a problem for this 67 year old mechanic. I placed the pointer where the #1 was marked on the cap and it would not start after I rebuilt the engine. Now I know why. I have built many chevy engines in times past with the old distributor but this is my first new type.
GREAT EXPLANATION! I CAN NOW TACKLE THE WORK MYSELF! THANKS ALOT!
This video is very detailed and helpful. my 99 4.3 was missing and backfiring for awhile. I put new plug wires, new cap and rotor. still no help. wasn't until I replaced the whole distributor did my problems go away! I ordered one from EBay for $44. this video made the install a breeze! if your having misfire issues I recommend replacement. take an hour of your time and do this simple repair. thanks so much! BTW, I'm no mechanic but by following this procedure it was simple! watch this a few times and good luck!!
I will say, that my new distributor did not have the factory line on it to align it before I installed it. so when I removed the old one, I simply used it as a pattern to make my own mark. simple idea
Kudos for your speaking ability and proper terminology. Right on.
Thxx v much sir
This is without doubt the very best video of installing a distributor in a Vortec. While I have been working on cars for going on 50 years I messed up in working on my Vortec 5.7 and watched at least 25 confusing videos before finding this one - Clear, knowledgeable and full of information not otherwise known or seen on any other videos -- saved me hours of wasted work and was clear and concise-- Thank you for this excellent and very professional instructional video
Hey sir. Appreciate all that you do. Have become a better technician thanks to your teaching videos. Have some learning problems so I have no formal training. You have helped me a long way. That being said. I recently fought a vortec distributor install. As in your scenario. It was out of time when towed in to me. I spent way to much time trying to drop it in. Changed my way of thinking. You know outside the box. Brought it up to number one. Went underneath rotated to next mark on crank pulley in relation to crank sensor. Dropped distributor in at number six. Had wife bump it over until oil pump shaft lined up. Bolted everything up and done. Without your previous teaching methods. My tunnel vision would most likely have continued. Again. Thank you for what you do.
THANKS!! Backyard mechanic that would have struggled with the oil pump shaft without your explicit directions. Bought it and had it in in one hour, 15 minutes which was lining up the shaft. Thanks again!!!
+Ostobers Even after doing over a dozen of these it still takes me quite a few tries to line it up! Matter of Trial and Error.... mostly error lol.
no need to fight with the oil pump shaft. simply drop it in place, hold the distributor down with your hand, or loosely install the hold down bolt. then turn the engine over by hand, and eventually it will fall right into place. even with the shaft not engaged on the oil pump, the drive gear engages the cam gear enough where they rotate in harmony. you won't lose timing.
good vid
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) Sounds like a good strategy- I'll try that next chance I get
+Schrodingers Box I'm having trouble aligning oil shaft with drive shaft any suggestion to help me align
Robert Perez Do exactly as I stated in my post above. Drop the distributor in, and when it falls as far down as it will go, turn the engine over at the crank pulley, after a couple of spins, it will fall right in.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) thx gabe I'm going t o have to do that after dropping I realized I'm off due to the fact of having code p0016 correlation of crank and can so I must be off. Also my distributor didnt come with any scribe or paint mark indicating the set back from cylinder 6 on distributor do you know what the set back is supposed to be because right now I'm just guessing and if I knew the set back I could do it the way you described above thank you for your help
I do It like this and it works
@Dungorm-Couple things come to mind- with bad bearings in the distributor coming first as you suspect- removal of dist and inspection should reveal that. worn teeth either on dist gear or cam gear could also explain. Also, the body of the dist is a snug fit in the intake hole- on either side of the intake hole are small oil holes-dist body not fitting snug will lower pressure here, although this hole also feeds the upper cylinder heads- if you have some valve chatter too I'd suspect this.
Schrodingers Box hello I have a 97 blazer 4.3 and after finding tdc and setting distributer the rotor prong was facing to the number 1 spark plug. It cranks and runs fine.
the info about the dizzy cap i never knew thank u very much sir hoping to get my yukon back up now with ur video
I graduated from Wyoming Tech some years back.Very good explanation. I just happen to be going in with a vortec and need to install that distributor after replacing crank. Thank you for this vid, saved me a pain, very well explained and put together.
Great Video, helped a lot... I had to remove mine for the first time in 2008 to change the intake gaskets for leaking coolant. It took me two attempts to get it seated.
TJ
el
Best explanation i have found. Others dont mention the correct oil pump mark below the distributor and is the key.
I’ve been watching distributor installs on RUclips all week. This is by far the best one for the 4.3. Thanks for good info.
Ive looked all over youtube and ive seen multiple vids on the topic. This is by far the best explained. No shaking the camara, everythings clear. Only thing is would have been cool to see #1 piston being set to top center. Still a great vid. Ill be trying this myself when this new distributor comes in. Thanks, im subscribing.
Sir, I was at the brink of desperation until I found your video and gave it "just one last try". Well, I am glad to say that I was able to finally fix this darn issue haha. Thanks a lot! Who would have thought such an old truck had such a distinct way of installing the distributor.
Thanks for the comment and hopefully the new cap fixed it, Chris. If not, On a P0300 it is very possible a fuel delivery problem could be the issue as well as many other things. Unfortunately without seeing on a scantool which cylinders are misfiring it can be very difficult to diagnose. For example, if it turns out all the cylinders on just one bank are mifiring you can rule out many more possibilities than if the misifires are random through the whole engine. Good luck!
I found a way easier method to install. Once you get TDC., take a picture with your phone to see where the top of the gear then just match the distributor up with the picture. Drops right in and lines up on the number 6
This worked for me. 👍
Thanks Matt I appreciate Your knowledge and method . ✓
Anytime!
Does this work for a o7 Silverado classic è⁰
@Randy- This video assumes that the timing is off to start with so there are no additional steps. Just make sure you are on TDC compression stroke #1 (i.e. you feel air coming out of #1 spark plug hole when turning engine over by hand and bring piston to highest point) and follow the video and you're good to go. If you still have a timing problem it won't be from distributer installation, it would be from cam/crank misalignment ( timing chain problem ).
Hey Matt. On the vortex v6, there are 13 teeth on the distributor gear. Thus, 360 degrees / 13 teeth = 27.7 degrees per tooth. If you are at TDC, any misalignment should be blatantly obvious if you are off even a single tooth.
On my 2000 Vortec v6, I am somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees off on the distributor mark while at TDC (verified absolute top on #1 with horoscope). This is the closest I can get, any other tooth alignment will be ~28 degrees away. Now, maybe I have something else going on (timing chain)?
Also, on some vehicles, it is almost impossible to line up a screwdriver head with the slot the oil pump shaft through a blind hole (abyss) in the rear of the engine, underneath hvac lines and wiring. Once you get first distributor engagement with the cam teeth, but before the oil pump shaft is aligned, you can manually turn the crank until the distributor aligns itself with the oil pump shaft - gravity will cause the distributor to set in place, then you can bolt it down.
Excellent deductions! Yes even off one tooth it is indeed blatantly obvious for the reason you stated. If you continually find it is impossible to line up when doing this correctly, I agree you may need to chaeck your crank and cam timing relationship.
Also yes, it takes "feel" to adjust the oil pump shaft- on this model you cannot see it. A strategically placed mirror can be used to help but it's tricky working with a mirror image!
My 2000 silverado vortec 6 cylinder has an o-ring on the distrubutor, but it is intended to seal the distributor housing to the engine (hole is in the Intake manifold as i recall). There is no Oring between the distributor and the cap, nor would i want one in my engine.
exactly, the drive gear is very coarse so if you're off, you'll easily see it... just pull out the distributor but first mark where the rotor is pointing first... Then just put it back in the way it was pointing. Now this doesn't check the timing, but just gets you back where it was.
Bob's Barn Workshop So I mark where the distributor rotor is pointing, pull it out and install the new one in the same orientation?
@@SchrodingersBox there was no room under my cowl for even a mirror, I ended upusing my iphone held over top so I could see the driveand then adjusted with a screwdriver inside a lenth of conduit
Hey man just wanted to say thanks.. This is about the best vid I have seen that is the most correct and with the most info.. Just wanted to say thanks again.. GOOD JOB!!!!
awesome video matt..i was lost for hours trying to put mine on time until i watched your video...very comprehensive and thourough..thank you very much
I took apart a carpenters square. Because the ruler is long enough and it will fit into the slot on the oil pump drive slot. Having the ruler in place I was able to see which way to turn it. You first have to look at the bottom of the distributor shaft after you line up the rotor tip to the 6 marking on the distributor housing.
Great idea, I have one of those as well I am going to install one of these tomorrow. 👍
Great video, thank you Sir, you are and gentleman and a scholar.
Thank you for the detailed video. You made my first distributor replacement easy. I had no problems and my truck is running much better now.
Thank you that last part helps so much I was all what the hell. So I looked it up and found your video thank you again.
como pongo escobetilla y cables
Tyler Ballard saidchevyblazerwontstamrt
How can u swap it back to the old type
@Eric- Thanks for the comment. My guess is you probably forgot to plug in the electrical connector at the distributer when you re-installed. If that's not the case, then most certainly the distributer was not installed properly. Make certain you are at TDC Cyl#1 on COMPRESSION stroke and verify the pointers on the distributer line up as shown. Other than that you must have disturbed some other electrical connection. In particular check the large plug at top of engine for the fuel injectors.
Very good video. What 5.3 motors are you talking about? The Vortec motors that use a distributor are the 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, and 7.4.
so is this video good for the 5.7 engine?
John Black yes it is.
Deric, indeed this is exactly why I like to "start fresh" with installing the distributer at TDC every time. Even if you do mark the distributer's original position accurately AND reinstall it exactly, this assumes the distributer was in correct position to begin with (maybe not as much an issue if it's your own car, but I usually get cars from people who gave up trying on their own and who knows what they've done!!!). I hope this video helped you. I do hate inaccurate repair manuals lol!!!
excellent video my friend, very thorough and spot on for the novice mechanic... Distributor install for dummies... thx
Marylanduman, if you're certain the old distributer was properly installed then you won't have to set the motor to TDC- just make marks where the old rotor lined up before you removed it and as long as the new distributer lines up the same way you are good. Remember the paintmark and dimple I show on the shaft/drivegear are used if motor is at TDC. I would recommend scribing a mark on the old distributer showing its orientation when you removed it so this can be used as an intsall reference.
the title is misinformation 5.3s dont have distributors only old vortecs 4.3 ,5.0 , 5.7
I just set my distributor and it was backfiring through the exhaust. I completely forgot that fact about the vortec distributor cap. Thank you now I can get it running again.
Great write up. It helped me organize my thoughts to reassemble the motor.
I used a compression gauge to cylinder number one along with chalk marks on harmonic balancer.
Aligning the oil pump shaft proved a little tricky for me. I couldn't get the screw driver head into the slot. So I took a piece of 1/2 inch electrical conduit about 8.5" long and dropped it over the shaft. The screw driver could pick it up real easy then.
Well she started right up after install. Idle is about 1500 and getting code P0016.
Thank you for a great video tutorial that helped me install my distributor which ended up helping me get 2 more years of service from my 2004 Chevy Blazer X engine code, I wish I was smart enough to follow you more regularly I believe my truck would be RUNNING WELL instead of being on blocks. I got it running but didn't correct the check engine situation. I didn't know how, cuz I have been a parts changer. I really appreciate your approach to a scientific step by step / logic process, intuitive approach. I'm learning a lot from you, but there is a lot to learn, and a few tools I'll need.
It's all about your dedication. It take me many times before I learn something!
Hard to believe you can find this great information for free. I was so used to the older dist caps I was setting
Anyone that is wondering about this video, Matt is dead on with his info. If and when you use this info, follow it to the letter and when you go to start your motor it will fire and run on the first try as long as there is no other problems. Good job Matt, thank you for honest advice.
@Vee Em, sorry for the late reply- I was busy for a couple weeks and thanks so much for subscribing.
Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the 94 Vortec which indeed has several fundamental differences from the 2001 model in the video. Therefore, I'm afraid I can't confidently advise on your installation. Hopefully someone will make a similar video on your model but it won't be me as I really only work on 96-up (OBD-2) models due to my scan tool's limitations to those models. Good luck!
your attention to detail is second to none, and that is needed when working with this unconventional cap/firing orientation. You made it idiot proof! Thank You!
I just got done swapping an engine on a 99 express van with the 5.0 vortec and I had to remove the distributor for clearance and I thought I marked everything I had to put it back on, but after watching this video, I think this is why the won't fire up, I get spark but it's not consistent it pauses.
I'm going to try to set the engine to TDC for cylinder 1 and install the distributor the way you showed hopefully she fires up thank your videos they are very helpful
...my number 1 way off. Thanks to this video it was a breeze. This was my first time working on something this new. Just wanted to say thanks and keep up the good work. Your correct terminology really makes it easier.
@NewECus-Thanks for the comment. I think you are right on with the timing light idea, it's a reasonable start but I'm thinking you won't find it as definitive as the distributer pointer method shown in the video. With car warmed up you should be at about 12deg at idle so make a paint mark on the timing plate there and see if you're in the ballpark. The timing is adjusted by computer. If distributer has ever been replaced, I’d reinstall it as shown first. These cars have timing chains, btw.
Another thing that can cause spark ignition issues is the cap and rotor check the cap for corrosion and arcing. This video did help me a lot the with Alignment of the ignition timing. Thank you!
Wow, Im astonished. I have a 4.3 apart for an intake gasket right now, didnt notice a thing about the dist. Watched this video for the hell of it.
My only thoughts up to this point was "I need to find my old timing light when I go back together". Thnx, great info!!!
great video had a mis fire problem changed spider injection new ignition coil and distributor rotor and cap thanks to your videos i fixed the problem myself saved me alot of time and money. thank you.
Thank you so much for posting this video, I was stuck on how to install my distributor I was searching for help on youtube but not body was very clear as you explained so clearly.
You are welcome!
I have been a mechanic for a long time.Some have it some don't.Your the real thing
@Moises- Not sure what to say about that- it should turn very easily. In fact it's common practice to spin this shaft with an electric drill to build pressure after a rebuild- there should be no resistance with the screwdriver. Possibly you are missing the actual oil pump shaft and getting the screwdriver stuck in the camshaft? Otherwise, you have some problems with the oil pump I would say!! It should even turn easily in the "wrong" direction in fact!
@bjmmckinney- Thanks for the comment. I am sure there are probably some aftermarket distributers that won't have the "6" or "8" marked but I find it impossible that they wouldn't have the arrow. If it didn't have the arrow that would make things more challenging but not impossible. If it doesn't have the arrow let me know and I'll tell you how to verify you have correct positioning.
Matt,
This video helped tremendously with my Chevy 4.3 but I did mine just a bit different. Since I had a hard A/C line directly above the distributor, I didn't want to be removing and replacing the distributor in order to line up the oil pump drive. My solution. I noticed that each time I lifted the distributor and replaced it the oil pump drive would move just a few degrees. So with the engine at known TDC on the compression stroke I realized that if I lifted and replaced the distributor enough times eventually it would settle in with the rotor pointed at the 6 mark. Took maybe 7 or 8 times but it finally worked out perfectly with the rotor pointing directly at the 6. As a check I rolled the engine over twice and each time I reached TDC the rotor was perfectly aligned with the 6! Engine fired right up with no codes or miss fires. Again I want to thank you for giving me the basic idea for getting the timing correct!
It's a great strategy and in fact a validated one. Indeed there is an established technique which I call "walking" and it basically is as you said- eventually the distributer will have to end up in its correct position eventually but it may take as many times as there are teeth!
You can speed up the walking by setting the distributer exactly 180 degrees off after each walk. In other words, when you lift the distributer and it turns slightly as you described, turn it 180 degrees from where it is and insert it. Then lift again and set it 180 degrees again. This gets you in the final position in half the time.
Interesting. That thought did occur to me after I was done. Honestly while I was doing it I wasn't even sure it would work, so I just took the slow and steady approach. I want to thank you again for the basic idea and knowledge. You got me "pointed" in the right direction!
beninchesapeake Ha! Ba dum dum!! Nice pun
@Mike- I'm you sure you meant Escalade- never been in an Escapade though I recall Janet Jackson inviting me on one about 15 years ago. Nonetheless, to the best of my knowledge, unlike most engines with adjustable distributers, the Cadillac 5.7 does not have timing marks over the crankshaft pulley and thus a timing light will be next to useless. On such models the "proper" way to time is to look at camshaft timing with a scantool as the distributer is adjusted.
@@÷7
Thank you for this video. It saved my butt when I forgot to mark the distributor before it got moved.
The rotor can be installed in only one position to the distributor , due to the locating tabs underneath the rotor next to the mounting screws holes. The locating tabs are offset from the mounting screws holes.great vid 👍
Yes that is true for any rotor on any distributor. . The point is the position of the rotor RELATIVE TO FIRING POSITION varies upon engagement with the cam.
I followed the hanes book , which did not give the v notch and harmonics. I had noticed the slot in the bottom which is not mentioned and figured what u showed was what was happening with the time. thanks for the proof...
I have a 2000 Blazer 4.3L I had to to replace the intake gasket 3 years ago. I wasn't that comfortable tackling this job at home but my mechanic neighbour needed cash and said he would do it. We had the intake off so we decided to replace the original rocker cover gaskets and OEM distributor where the insert moulded screw knuckles had cracked the distributor base plate and we opted for the after market distributor with a solid metal base plate to avoid future failure. My neighbour and I messed with that distributor for a few hours reverting to TDC alignment and could not get rid of a code it was setting. We finally recruited another neighbour who worked at the local GM dealer. He got the code cleared with my Tech2 stating we had to initialize the new distributor / sensor. I guess in your video this was not applicable if you were using the same distributor but I thought it may be a helpful hint if someone was replacing their distributor. BTW: your videos are awesome.
Seems most comments are about confusion on TDC, marks aligned and #1 comp. vs. exhaust.When you pull out your dist. (if it hasn't stripped inside somewhere) just take off your cap. align the 6 to the rotor and put the new one in the same. If your wanting second confirm the marks should line up the fist balancer mark underneath to the mark on the timing cover (that's seen easily from underneath) and the second mark lining up to the mark from above (also on the timing cover, harder to see).....there are two marks and two lines on the balancer.Also..lots of reman. dist. have the dimples installed wrong, you're just going to have to play them as dealt or return for another. Matt, your vids are great for us backyard mech. I thought I'd have to give up working on cars years ago because of all the library research it involved but the interwebs and guys like you saved the day.
This video seriously made so much sense
Everything else online jumps around and is confusing. This walked through perfectly
I greatly appreciate your thorough, orderly instructions. I successfully replaced the distributor in my '05 Silverado 4.3 Vortec with 97K. The symptom was intermittent spark on #4 cylinder - which was challenging to diagnose. What I found was a significantly worn gear on distributor shaft. I used a Delco OEM distributor with all necessary markings. Thank you Matt !!!!!
Hey Eric if your still having problems, I found out why so many people go insane working on this project. If your at tdc, mark one on the crank as explained here, but your not lining up on the six, the rotors just before it or just after it, that is the exhaust stroke, so just turn the crank another 360 degrees, pick the distributor up and move it back half way between two full drop down spots until your (screwdriver not needed then). once to the other side, viola you just need starting fluid.
@Juarezvivo- Wow you got me on that one. Are you sure the mark on the distributer doesn't say 8 but maybe part of it is rubbed off? Either way... as long as you have 8 posts on the distributer cap (well, 9 including the coil post) then I wouldn't worry about it at all.
The mounting tabs on mine were broken, so my cap was just sitting on there, Surprises it still ran,
I'm doing this tommorrow with a new distributor, thanks for the vid!
Hey Matt, first off thanks for the video. I found it to be very helpful and had more information then my repair manual. so people know why their engines not starting. If your tdc on the balancer, but your not lining up on the six, your just before it or just after it that is the exhaust stroke, so just turn the crank another 360 degrees and line it up until it's lined up with the "6". 95-97 has no white line so line this up right before the screw hole before the six and your rotor will line up.
i spent hours today trying to time a s10 after a head gasket job. untill i watched your video! good job and thank you tons!
+jon malveiro Same with me lol... its why I filmed this
Very awesome video and explanation of this...I was in the "old school" method and tried about 6 times until fully watching this...Thanks a million!!!!!!!!
great video very informative but you did not show how to set #1 to t.d.c. but once i got that issue resolved this video was a great help thank you. im only pulling the distributor because i had low oil pressure and knew that the oil pump could not be the problem. I found that the old distributor was wearing from rubbing the intake and leaning to one side causing low oil pressure.
I have watched this video, a few times, and your explanation, is the best, I have an 01, express conversion van, with a 4.3, and I have to replace, the intake manifold gasket, so I know, I will be watching it again, a few more times, thank for sharing your knowledge, I'm not looking forward to this, but it has to be done, great job, thank you!!!!!!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Sir, I cant thank you enough!!! I watched another video months ago in regard to the intake manifold gasket replacement (common with this engine) and I started doing the work, and completely forgot to mark my distributor before taking it off. Idiot move on my part for sure. So I then had to look up a video on how to TDC cylinder 1, and reset the distributor. Well when I watched his video he never mentioned that oil drive gear. So on install I was fighting with it to get it in. I got it in but it was just slightly off. The truck still ran, but has a misfire. So I started looking up new videos and came upon yours. Rewatched the install and did the work. Runs fine now. Great video! You helped me out on this flaw for sure!!! I cant thank you enough.
Glad to hear it!!
I want to thank you for a very excellent job in explaining everything I wished everyone was as clear at explaining thanks have a great day
Yes the infamous corrected cap that is notorious for cross firing from one cyl to another and causing havoc with these particular engines anytime I have any issues w bad running if at all or any misfire issues it's the first thing I try I have on hand what I know to be a good one just for this I remove the old one replace w the one I know to be good if the problem goes away bingo I go. And buy a new cap and rotor for the engine and in at least 75 % of the cases it's a wrap and off we go for another idk how many thousand miles but yes this is the most informative video I've seen on this subject by far and the very best explanation of how to do it follow his recommendation to the letter exactly and you will have success if not to the letter and its even the slightest bit off one tooth it will not run now you have to start all over again as well, finding tdc on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke of no 1 cyl just remember the distributor only turns at half. The speed of the crankshaft it takes two complete revolutions of the crank to get one revolution of the distributor that is where most people get very confused and end up having all kinds of problems wrenches being thrown cussing and often. Times maybe some bleeding from skinned knuckles it happens dont laugh it is a true story lol no one compression stroke if it's the exhaust stroke and you line all this up it will not run and may even do some crazy popping and huffing and jumping around its. Not good for it. At all so do it right guys do it once take your time dont get in a hurry or flustered the oil pump can be a pain but again take your time and make sure its lined up correctly and whatever you do make sure the bolt is in to hold down the distributor before you try to start it again dont laugh I've seen this happen the distributor will want to be pushed up once it does start if you even
Get that far and bad things happen very quickly to gears and oil pump shafts if this step is missed just be thorough and take your time guys it's not that hard to do really honest I've done hundreds on old school small blocks and this Is the very same exact thing except the cap is different and no 1 is in a different place gone is the having to refer to the firing order of 18436572 that Is a thing of the past on the vortec the cap takes care of that for you with that crazy looking cap that gives us so many problems lol sorry rambling smoke another one eh lmao have fun and stay dirty and no I'm not Eric the car guy
This guy matt knows his shit.I had changed my stock Distributor with an alum. base.Distributor.This distributor is a lot harder to install compared to the Hei distributor.It took me awhile on how to changed it.But got it done.
Working on a distributer like this (I have a Blazer with a 4.3) is a new experience for me. I'm used to the ones that can be adjusted. Thanks for the tips! It'll be a snap now.
This dude knows what he`s talking about.I did everything he said.No problems at all.
Ii know u got me out of my fear afew years ago when i replaced head gaskets on my 2000 chevy blazer 4.3 scared to death id never get it right myself i give u a vary vary big thums way up and bless u and a happy 2020 thanksgiving
Hahaha, man the first time i ever replaced head gaskets I had to do it 3 times before I finally figured out the head was warped. Sounds like you are on a way better track than I was!!!
@@SchrodingersBox i got rid of the blazer
Thank you sir for the excellent video, and special thanks to commentor Gabriel Velazquez who saved my bacon when I was fighting with the oil pump engagement. I could not see into that hole and I fought it for several hours trying to get a screwdriver in there and adjust it by feel, with no success. I then remembered a comment on here about a different approach (Gabriel V's) which I re-read, and using his method (install the distributor in the correct position and then rotate the engine manually until it seats on the oil pump) I had the new distributor correctly seated and fastened down in about 15 minutes. Cranked right up, no codes, runs great.
Saved me some cash... i was about to call a mechanic for this. Thank you sir.
Thank You so much for this video! I pulled my distributor out of my 1999 suburban, and forgot to mark it, when I was doing a head job on the engine. Anyway I was in a panic until I saw your video, and I followed your steps exactly, and the engine fired up perfectly, you saved me a lot of time, thank you so much for your instruction!!! Great Job!!
dude this gives away two days of my book interpretation and includes information they didn't include intentionally
Great information that has corrected an old time mechanics error. My things have changed. Thank you for sharing.
Dude, that was an awesome video, you anticipated all of my questions including the appearance of the rotor not pointing towards the number one spark plug wire connection.
If you look at the inside of the distributor cap, you'll find that, indeed, it is pointing to #1.
Ok watched your video ( twice to make sure ) and sure enough the rotor lined up just like you're in your video. started right up !!!! You Exsplained it perfectly ..Ty Godspeed
Good vid-Do your self a favor and use the old distributor shaft and just grind off the gear on the distributor. Makes getting a hold of the oil pump drive and getting it lined up with new distributor much easier. I just had a hard time getting a screwdriver engaged and trying to move the oil pump drive shaft just a small amount with engine in Sonoma. My Chinese distributor didn't have paint mark so I just used a piece of string to measure from paint mark reference on old distributor to arrow reference on old distributor and transferred the dimension to China distributor. One final note-if you get the distributor 180 degrees out of phase(you're on the exhaust stroke) you wont get any spark. You could also buy an engine priming tool.
You can make a tool to align the oil pump tang with the slot in the distributor that wiorks better than a scredriver. Take a piece of hardwood dowel, cut a slot in the end, and slip it down into the hole. Wiggle it around until the oil pump tang goes into the slot in the dowel. You may have to remove and reinstall the distributer a few times to get both the oil pump slot and the rotor to both align properly.
Great video I'm going out right now and give it a shot ive got a 2001olds bravada v6 there is a small single wire tan with a white stripe and I can't find where it goes just wondering if it's some kind of accessorie plug or not if someone else is reading comments I'd really appreciate it
Explaining that the rotor does not point to where the number one wire is located, that is awesome! The other videos pass right over that little detail. Most other videos go off on a tangent. Too many try to be cute and funny and way too much talk. We don't care why they are replacing the distributor.
In the 5.7 it lines up with #1
+Jables bcartman123 are you sure because
I'm about to do this job and this is what I'm going off of
Jables bcartman123 i have a 5.7 as well. so it needs to line up with the 1? and the 8 mark needs to be pointed on the other end?
thesmoothone 2004trailblazerstartsaindcutsoff
thesmoothone.
I done a upper intake gasket on a Chevy blazer it ran fine before but after the gasket install the engine has a knock I'm not the only one that has run into this prob nothing fell into the intake rags we're covered the whole plenum double checked before the intake went back oil was and antifreeze was drained before disassembly. Plus there is a catch in the engine when hand rotation but not with turning it over it runs fine no misses just that knock. Like I said I've read there has been others on other forums ran into same prob
this is the best vortec distributor install video out there..dead on..thanks man..
The second mark, or the one further advanced clockwise is for lining up from underneath the truck, in my ‘99 full size pickup the engine practically sits under the cab and the front is covered with so much stuff you can’t see the upper mark and the timing cover, so reaching up from underneath with a wrench is an option for doing this - I did not put my truck on high enough ramps to comfortably do it from below so I got frustrated and just removed all the fan and housing/ belt etc to use the top mark, but the other mark lines up on the bottom to another point - I slapped some white touch up paint into the top mark so it will never be difficult to locate again
You're the man brotha. I am super confident I can do this job now. Thank you
Matt, THANK YOU SO MUCH for the video!!!!!! It helped my ignorant ass tremendously. Is it possible to add a few comments......? I hope so, and please do not take this wrong. 1) As for people like myself, might wanna include to put the vehicle in neutral (DAMN, THAT MOTOR WAS EASIER TO TURN OVER!!!!), 2) I used the alternator to turn the engine instead of the flywheel, 3) To fit the screwdriver into the slot for the oil pump, I used instead the lever bar on a small mechanical/hydraulic floor jack. The slots are identical, and there is THE PIN used to relieve the pressure to lower the bar....? Can be your guide to "line up" the slot correctly. Got my 2000 Chevy S10 on TDC. Thanks again Matt.........
I will add to that to just go ahead and pull out all the sparkplugs to begin with, I too had left my manual in low gear (habit) and wondered wtf trying to spin it over lol; but I also learned that turning the crank bolt with a ratched not so easy while fighting the other 5 cycles of compression - because of this I realized also that the spark plugs I replaced maybe 30000 miles ago are shot already, the centrepins melted down the gap is approx 67 thou ! The factory set I changed around 100000 miles didn’t look near as bad.
The factory used double platinum and the centre pins were large, when I changed them it was recommended to me to “upgrade” them to irridium plugs with a finer centre wire - needless to say I will be going back to the double platinum this time around.
@Wrothacker- Help is available for your condition, but you really have to want to change for it to work.
update: i installed my dizzy this am and shes running great so far, thanks for the video. I never had to mess with tdc, i just used my old roter with my marks,i will prob eventually get a new roter.