🛠️ DIY: How to adjust the valves on a Craftsman (Briggs) 17.5HP OHV Engine
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
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In this video, I show you how to adjust the valves on a Craftsman LT1000 mower with a Briggs 17.5 HP OHV Engine.
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Instructions and specifications:
The B&S 17.5HP engine is used on many models of riding lawn tractors. The mower in this video is a Craftsman LT1000, but this guide will work for all other brands and models. Here is a partial list of lawn mower brands that have this engine in one or more models:
Troy-Bilt
Husqvarna
John Deere
Poulan Pro
Ariens
This guide work for all models - except early production vertical models 110000, 120000
This video will show you step by step instructions for how to adjust the intake and exhaust valves on a Briggs & Stratton OHV motor. This video include instructions on how to determine which valves are the intake and exhaust valves, and how to find top dead center (TDC).
NOTE: Check valve clearance while the engine is cold.
1. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke. This prevents the compression release from holding the valves open.
2. Insert a narrow screwdriver or rod into the spark plug hole as a gauge, then slowly turn crankshaft counterclockwise until the piston has moved down the bore by 1/4” (6mm).
3. Using a feeler gauge (A, Figure 41), adjust rocker nut to obtain the clearance as listed on the bottom o this answer.
4. Hold rocker nut and tighten the rocker ball setscrew (B) to the torque valve of 45 lb-in. (5 Nm).
5. Check clearance again and re-adjust, if necessary.
6. Repeat for the other valve.
NOTE: On some models, the nut and setscrew are positioned above the pushrod ends.
Block Image
Vertical Models 110000, 120000 Early Production
1. Using a feeler gauge (A, Figure 42) adjust the locking hex nut (B) to obtain the
correct clearance as listed on the bottom of this answer.
2. Repeat for the other valve.
Block Image
- OR -
1. Loosen jam nut (A, Figure 43) at base of rocker arm stud. Then, using a feeler gauge (B), turn rocker arm screw (C) to obtain the correct clearance as listed on the bottom of this answer.
2. Hold the screw and tighten the jam nut to value 45 lb-in. (5 Nm).
3. Check clearance again and re-adjust, if necessary.
Block Image
MODEL 110000 HORIZONTAL SERIES
Valve Clearance - Intake .004 - .006 in. (.10 - .15 mm)
Valve Clearance - Exhaust .009 - .011 in. (.23 - .28 mm)
MODEL 120000 HORIZONTAL SERIES
Valve Clearance - Intake .004 - .006 in. (.10 - .15 mm)
Valve Clearance - Exhaust .009 - .011 in. (.23 - .28 mm)
MODEL 150000 HORIZONTAL SERIES
Valve Clearance - Intake .004 - .006 in. (.10 - .15 mm)
Valve Clearance - Exhaust .009 - .011 in. (.23 - .28 mm)
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MANUFACTURER'S DESCRIPTION:
Briggs & Stratton 31R907-0007-G1 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine
500cc, 17.5 horsepower
This genuine 500cc single cylinder engine offers dependable power for your equipment needs. With a power rating of 17.5 HP, this engine features a premium Dual Clean air filtration system, electric with recoil backup starter, and maintenance-free Magnetron electronic ignition. With a manufacturer limited warranty of 2 years consumer use/1 year commercial use, this engine includes a Dura-Bore cast iron cylinder sleeve, installed muffler, fuel pump, oil filter and 9 amp charging system.
Dura-Bore cast iron cylinder sleeve for extended life
Exhaust included
Overhead valve design (OHV) for cooler operation and long valve life
9 amp charging system
Consider These Factors :
Vanguard OHV engines are cast iron cylinder sleeve engines - for continuous heavy duty applications
Intek OHV engines run cooler and deliver more power, longer life and fuel economy - for more power
Standard engines are aluminum cylinder bore, side/overhead valve engines - for general consumer use
Horizontal and Vertical Shaft Engines
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Please Note: In the event that a product used in this video has been discontinued, the product link will be replaced with a comparable product from the same manufacturer if available.
DISCLAIMER: This video and description may contain affiliate links
Thank you for visiting the jungle explorer channel. 
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please change your identity of the valves
@@chrisjensen7140 Once a video is published, it cannot be edited. Why people that have watched youtube for years do not understand this, is a mystery. You are free to propose this ability to youtube if you like. I have pushed for it for years, but they have not listened to me. They actually had a function called "Annotations" years ago that allowed us to add text captions to a video after it was published, but this function was not compatible with mobile browsers and this is what most people watch youtube on, so YT got rid of it. If this function were still available I could go in and add a note correct my verbal error. In spite of my verbal mistake, I performed the repair correctly and I wish more people would focus on this rather than getting their tail feathers all in a bunch over a misspoke word. Talk about missing the forest for the trees.
The kind of video I like ... All the info you need, without any fluff & theatrics!
I've done many of these and the Intake is the Bottom with the Aluminum Push Rod. Top is Exhaust with Steel Push Rod. (Can always tell because one is shiny (Intake) and one is Black (Exhaust). Good rule of thumb when adjusting is TDC on compression stroke/both valves should be ready to adjust. Intake .004 and Exhaust .006. That seems to always work best.
Yep, if you pull the exhaust pipe that valve is right there. The reason briggs and crackens get fouled up is when that float sticks and the intake, angled straight down to bottom intake, lets gas right into the crank
Stevie H is right!
@@rywolf01 bottom is int its a fact
Have to agree with that
That is correct👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I am a 62 year old man and been a mechanic all my life,but don't know everything. Many how to videos talk to much and teach very little. This gentleman has hit the mark. Very good job. Please do more. The world needs a good instructor. Your it. Thank you .
You right he talks too much
@@kawika7666 I agree with @samuelromano3893. I’ve been doing this seems like forever. I rebuilt a 1974 starter today that came off of a 1250 cub cadet after completely taking it apart while at the same time dismantling a 1972 Troy built horse tiller. The reason he is talking to much is he’s trying to teach a barebones beginner. Job well done !
Do you identify the valves by which one goes down first too?
Great video, I just made some adjustments on mine and it runs great now
I have had this problem for 20+ years. The last time I checked there wasn't a clear answer online (yes, it has been a long time). You have clearly solved my problem! For that I most sincerely thank you!!
I'm sure that we have learned from 75% of the comments that you had the valves reversed. Not a big deal after reading a couple comments that made the correction.
By inadvertently making the mistake (of mislabelling the valves) you have brought in MANY more comments which is very good for your channel.
Congrats!
My pleasure. Glad the video helped you out.
As a rule of thumb and in this case, the "Intake Valve" has an aluminum push rod (bottom) ....where as the "Exhaust Valve" has a steel push rod (top). Good presentation...
correct
Lol I seen that to . he needs to get his info right before he makes a video . and there is a decompression release on the cam that maybe bad if people are getting to much compression
@SilverJustice what good is a how to video if the information given is incorrect. Fortunatly , in this case, the incorrect information didn't and in most situations wont result in considerable engine damage .
You got it BACKWARDS!
When the intake valve closes, you have a full compression stroke before it fires and the exhaust valve begins to open. In this video, as soon as the top valve closes, the bottom valve begins to open, immediately! This tells me the top is the exhaust, because on stroke 3 of the 4 stroke engine, the power stroke, as the piston begins to travel upward on the 4th stroke, the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is now opening. as it reaches the top of the stroke, the exhaust has been purged from the cylinder, as that exhaust valve is closing the intake valve is now beginning to open to allow a fresh charge of fuel/air mixture into the cylinder as we begin stroke 1, the intake stroke. The only time in the 4 stroke cycle that both valves rock at the same time is at the very beginning of the intake stroke. This dude is backwards! NEVER shove a metal object in the plug hole to feel the piston coming up. Always use a plastic ink pen or the eraser end of a wood pencil. Anytime you stick a chunk of steel against an aluminum piston you risk the chance of damaging the piston head. It may be ok for you or I to do this, but I don't recommend a novice to try it, and this video is intended to show a novice how to adjust the valves.
correct, top valve is the intake valve
@@chrisjensen7140 oops... better check your reply mate, I know you meant to say top valve is exhaust.
Thanks Mike,, you got it right,,,,
Thank you for this great information mike speece. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
I adjusted valves on my mower inlet at bottom, exhaust at botton
A thousand blessing just shot your way from Tn. Had adjusted these critters before and wondered what those torx screws were. Our riding mower was turning really slow during start up and made ignition a PIA. This fixed it
So glad it was of some hop. A double portion of blessings back to you.
Thanks for demonstration. It was extremely helpful.
Thanks for this - got my engine running on the first try after following your lead
My pleasure. Glad to be of service.
I always thought that the intake valve had the aluminum pushrod, and the exhaust valve was made of steel and you could tell by the looks of them which one was which. Very good video. I really liked it. Keep the good work up
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I've watch a couple of videos this one was solid. I got my pen out. Thanks.
Appreciate it man mower finally runs been working on it long time watched this an gapped everything to what you said an mower fired right up thanks
Glad it helped
Dear Jungle explorer. Great video. Great example and straight to the point
Thank you for commenting PureBloodAmerican🇺🇸. I am very happy to hear that you enjoyed the video.
Top valve is exhaust with the steel push rod. The push rod is the darker color and on the right side of the rocker arm it is visible in your video.
The lower is the intake with a lighter color push rod, it's aluminum with steel ends. Verify your engine for these specifications. Mine was a 18.5 HP OHV. Intake : 0.003 to 0.005 I shoot for 0.004
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Hey Kevin. Thank you for your information. Many guys say the first valve to move is the intake. Well, what if the engine stopped in a different position? Then the first valve to move would be the exhaust. Am I right? Or does the engine always stop on the exhaust stroke? I would really like to know this. Thanks.
@@AndysDogHouse Makes perfect sense to me!!
Great explanation on which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve. I thought it was odd that he didn't just say that the valve with the aluminum rod is always the intake.
@@rvalens2 If the aluminum rod is on the exhaust, the exhaust heat would eventuality soften or melt the aluminum rod!
Most aluminum melts around 1400 degrees.
I enjoyed your video. I try to do my own repairs as they're expensive, but moreover getting them to a shop or getting someone to the country where I live is next to impossible. I do maintenance so things don't need repair, but with a 20 years old mower, it comes down to other things besides oil, plugs and filters. My starting problem became clear it's compression, so valve adjustment would be necessary. Thank you Google. You took the fear out of it for me. Another video I watched didn't make me feel as comfortable as you did. Not knocking the other guy, because when he demonstrated the starting problem, it was identical to what my mower was doing. What I liked from your video was that you were more educational. Like explaining one valve is intake and the other is exhaust. Don't know why, but that sort of thing helps me to understand the mechanics more clearly. Also, getting the piston at center. You instructed the tool needed to draw back an additional 1/4" from the spark plug hole. That had not been mentioned in the other video. Lastly, appreciated how your mower looked to have been used to mow instead of nice and showroom shiny. 😊 Mine looks like yours. I wish it was nice and shiny. Anyway, I enjoyed and learned from your video. I'll def give it a thumbs up. Wish I could give it a heart also, cause women can work on things like this and still be girly. ❤
Thank you for commenting catlecat C! I am so glad the video was helpful.
As others noted, typical mower engines are called "4 stroke engines" because it takes 4 strokes of the piston to complete a single cycle. Perhaps another helpful tip for you to locate Top Dead Center of the Compression Stroke. Since you will have the spark plug removed and the coil wire pulled aside, you can use your thumb to block the spark plug hole and as you rotate the engine, you will feel the compression from the piston pushing the air past your thumb. Another way to get a visual sign of TDC, you can purchase a spark tester. Using this tester, you attach the tester to a ground on the engine and attach your spark plug wire. When you see the spark plug tester light flash quickly, you know you reached TDC( within a couple degrees of TDC) because that is when a spark plug fires the air/fuel mix in the cylinder. If you had the engine apart further and you could see where the coil mounts, you would also see where the flywheel passes the coil pickup to signal the coil to fire the spark. The point where these two items line up is where you will have both valves closed, the spark plug firing, and the valves can be adjusted as noted.
The Top rocker is your exhaust bottom is intake ! Look where your down pipe is located, The exhaust valve is right there and your intake runner goes down at an angle to your bottom valve. The intake has a aluminum push rod and the exhaust is steel ! "Top is exhaust botton is intake"
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you definitely did a better job on explaining the valve adjustment Thanks RB Michigan
My pleasure. Glad it helped
You are mistaken top valve is EXHAUST!!! Four stroke engine: intake-compression-power-exhaust!!
Yep. The exhaust valve uses a steel pushrod, and intake uses an aluminum pushrod. That is the easiest way to identify the valve on these engines.
Agreed. When rotating the engine, for about one whole rotation, the will be no valve movement. This is the compression and power stroke. After these, the exhaust valve will open and the intake will shortly follow. You can also pretty clearly tell the exhaust comes out right at that top valve
@@Skippo18Yes , I was just going to say that .
Not only that, you can see the top valve is literally next to the exhaust pipe.
Good info
we like this video it actually gave you the number setting for the valves.
Good job explained thank understand
Thanks. Glad it helped
Hey man, thanks alot. Works great now!
Thank you for your comment. I make these videos to help people. I am glad it was helpful to you.
Can I ask you a favor? Covid has hit everyone hard, including me. I would really appreciate it if you could help me too. If you found this video helpful, I would sincerely appreciate if you could share it or my channel one time with someone else that it might help. Thanks again.
On these engine I was told the top is exhaust with steel push rod, and intake is the bottom with aluminum push rod
Thank you for this great information Jabshier1980. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
3 thumbs up 👍👌 great video,thanks for being so humble and patience. CW
Kinda missed this the first time around, but kinda cool that you had this converted to a dual fuel.
Yeah. I converted it many years ago. I can run it on both gasoline and propane. I ran it an propane for over three years mowing 10 acres before getting a new carburetor for it.
Here is a video I made about it. It is one of the very first videos I made for my channel. ruclips.net/video/b06bueSIU5U/видео.html
I modified my push mower to do that but I didn't do the legit way I did it a diy way and to make it run properly I just had to adjust the flow of propane. It's really easy to do
This helped a lot. Thanks!
If you have hard starting it's normally the intake is loose. There is an internal compression release that pushes the intake down when cranking. Much over .004 on the intake will effect this feature resulting in hard cranking
Thank you for commenting sky5jump!
What to set at
You are da man worked the first time!
👍. Glad the video helped.
Thank you for giving us a good lesson
My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it
Another good rule of thumb? IF the engine doesn't want to spin over? Hard Crank? Before you go checking the valves and messing there...make sure it's not vapor locked...(you can tell because there will be gasoline in the oil from Carb flooding. Always a good idea to put shut off valve on the gas line too on older mowers.
Thanks mr! Mine has fuel in the oil cuz I cut the plunger off of the electronic fuel stopper that comes up thru the bottom of the float bowl. I'll get a shutoff valve, even if it's a pair of vice-grips!
Thank you for this great information Stevie H. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
10th
The top one is the exhaust, lined-up with the exhaust pipe.
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I have the same mower & engine ( a 2005)& the decompression mechanism on the exhaust valve linkage (internally) is suspect bad. So... gonna adjust valves first as engine only cranks to compression, then stops. New battery & starter did not solve this issue.
Thanks for the video! You da man!
Thank you for commenting Jeff Randolf! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for sharing this video
My pleasure. Glad it helped
Great video and very helpful!
Thank you. I am so happy to hear that the video helped you out.
A lot of good information but the first valve to move when you turn the engine depends completely on where the engine had stopped and which direction you turn the engine.
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Thanks for the video very informative.was the only video out of many I watched that got my power washer back up and running
Glad it helped
This helped a lot thank you.
Thank you for commenting opinion! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Great video.
Great vid, but 2 things need to be addressed...
1- The intake valve is on the bottom, notice the aluminum push rod, exhaust is on the top, steel pushrod.
2- The set screw is a T20 torx bit, not a star bit, which people might confuse for a Phillips bit.(calling it a star)
Thank you for this great information @splash5974. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
@@thejungleexplorer cheers
Still a great vid!
i understand you and my mower run smooth with power- thank you
Nice vid. I'm a bit confused by the piston cycles and how to tell that I'm on the right cycle to find TDC and then adjust the valves. I don't think that the valves can be adjusted at TDC on either cycle?
There has been a lot of informative comment made on this video by professional mechanics. Reading through them may provide an answer to your question. All I can say is that this method works for me and this mower is still running fine. I am however, not a profesisonal small engine mechanic. I am just a DIYer that tries to make helpoful videos about things I do myself.
life saver for sure
thx for your lesson
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He Adjusted the valves backwards and it still ran good. Good ol briggs and stratton. I've been mowing 7 acres in florida for 15 years with a 42 inch murray with the 17.5 briggs and it still runs good. If the engine only spins about 3/4 of a turn and then stops when cranking,and you think you have a weak battery,that's when the valves are usually out of adjustment. Or it could be a broke compression release thingy inside the engine. But it's probably the valves needing adjustment.🔩🔧😷🍺
Thank you for commenting Donald Green!
And there is a decompression release on the cam shaft so if you are getting to much compression check your cam make sure it's not broke
I don't think mine is working. I don't get the little "bump" on the intake valve :(
There is no compression release
@@thejungleexplorer it's an internal compression release on the camshaft .. it hand grenades all the time on these engines.
You made an assumption that the engine had stopped at the end of the 4th stroke and so the first valve to move was intake. In actuality the engine had stopped at the end of the 2nd stroke and so the exhaust valve opened first when you turned it. When an engine coasts to a stop it doesn’t always stop at the end of an exhaust stroke. It stops when the flywheel runs out of inertia.
Runs amazing. What else matters?
Jungle Explorer it would matter to someone replacing a valve or pushrod because they are different parts.
YOU DO A GOOD VIDEO...SUBSCRIBED
I recently bought a used YT3000 with a 21 hp
the lights do not work and the battery runs down overnight.
Also the battery my tech purchased for the tractor is only 210 CCA.
Is that too small for this engine and could the switch be bad on the tractor or could there be a current drain somewhere.?
Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. I do not believe that the 210 CCA battery is the cause of your problem. There may be a couple things going on here. 1. You may have a short in your lighting system that is preventing your lights from working, and that may also be the cause of your battery running down if it is a short to ground. It also may be that your new battery is bad. Never assume that just because something is new, it is not defective. Unfortunately, when it comes to lawn tractor batteries, they are pretty much all garbage these days. I don't think you can find one that offers longer than a 6-month warranty. They will not last a season if you do not keep them on a battery maintainer when they are not in use.
Step number one, I recommend that you take your battery in to get it tested to make sure it is still good. Most auto parts stores like Autozone and O'Rielly's will test your battery for free.
Step number two, Look for a short in the wiring system to your lights. The short may be in the switch itself, so make sure you test this. You can test a switch by using a multimeter to do a continuity test. You can also use a continuity test to test the wires from the switch to the lights to see which one may have a short.
I hope this helps.
Did it backfire before? My mother-in-laws same mower backfires while trying to crank but want crank. I put a new spark plugs in it and checked the gas filter and replaced the air filter as well. Thanks for any help.
No it did not backfire
Thanks for the video. My engine makes small cut out when running full throttle. I did the valves and rebuilt the carburetor. And changed all service parts and It still cut out. Spark looks fine. Any ideas?
Sorry, I don't know what could be causing that.
Thank you.
You're welcome. Glad to be of service.
The screw you are referring to is called a Torx screw which need Torx bits. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for commenting.
Thanks for the helpful vid! Now I believe I know how ro do it. However I was surprised you didn’t include torque specs for either the 2 torx bolts or the cover bolts. Is “tight” ok? Some other videos include them.
Great suggestion!
Thanks!
Thank you. I really appreciate the help.
I'm hoping this will fix my backfiring from the intake issue. One Of my neighbors threw away an lt 1000. So my goal is to try and get it running. Kiwi is not sheared. New spark plug new fuel. The only issue is that fuel float control valve gets stuck Open even after cleaning
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How value is the from in to millimeter exhaust vs intake
Thank you for commenting Finn Lauritsen!
Are the lifters hydraulic or solid? Thanks in advance
Solid
just watched another video and they said that the valve with the steel push rod is the top one and could be checked with a magnet, and the alum. push rod is the bottom and as i see it that exhaust pipe mounts close to the top valve that would make it the exhaust
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Your Top One Is The Exhaust Valve. Even Though Both The Exhaust And Intake Are At The Sides Of The Top Valve It Is The Exhaust Valve Because It Is The Closest To The Exhaust. So Since The Top Valve Is Closest To Where The Exhaust Pipe Bolts Up To The Engine It Is The Exhaust Valve. It Is ALWAYS The Valve Closest To The Exhaust Is The Exhaust Valve. Good Video.
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When I adjust valves I leave the feeler gauge in between so it tightens onto the gauge
Great information. Thanks for commenting.
It will be the bottom one for intake valve key is aluminum push rod
Thank you for commenting Devon Cole!
Hola. Cual es la medida para la holgadura de admisión y de escape?. En milímetros por favor.
Sorry, I do not know the answer.
Very nice video mister
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
Mike and Madman are correct top valve is exhaust
Thank you for commenting OleSkool Hunter!
Another note: Don't bother wasting time looking for TDS (Top Dead Center). With Spark plug removed rotate engine till bottom spring is compressed (Intake). Then use your feeler gauge to adjust the gap on the Exhaust. Rotate engine a few times, or back and forth to double check your adjustments.Lock your adjustment screw as in the video. NEXT rotate to compress the top Exhaust spring. From there you can adjust your gap on the intake with your feeler gauge. Again follow the video.
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thanks for your comment. almost lost a rod listening to the guy in the video. He has everything backwards. reading your comment has my mower running like new. thanks again!
Why is it not important to find TDC? Some say do it with TDC others say your way. I’m so lost.
@@TheSponge945 you don't need to do that step if you know what you are doing.
Just locate the gap on the intake, then fine tune it with the feeler gauge. Then do the same for the exhaust. Or which ever opens first.
@@kevincronin60181 appreciate your reply but it doesn’t really answer the question. So why can it be done via TDC or your way.
Actually if you use the gauge before and after you know much better where your adjustment is also the proper way for your jam bolt is torqued what is the torque specs? But you did pretty good thanks.
Thanks for commenting and adding your input.
I thought the intake valve always had the aliminum push rod and exhaust a steel push rod. If I'm correct it appears this video is incorrect? Can someone please clarify this matter and comment?
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Dam right the intake is always the aluminium rod , if you have a look at the head the intake port curves down to the intake, don’t be fooled by amateurs who think the know what they are doing they will and can damage the engine , as the aluminium rod have been known to snap at the top ,usually because of lack of oil and or the engine air filters dirty or clogged , and the plastic guide rubs through the rod and shit your engine is destroyed, a great tip keep your oil clean and make you never over fill , just do your services and your problems will be solved , and a side note do the valves cold NOT HOT .
Thanks for communicating. Great information!
The last video I watched made the same mistake. The EXHAUST valve is always the first to open! The gases from the last fire must be evacuated from the cylinder BEFORE the new fuel mixture can enter. All I need to know is what to set the backlash at. If these guys can't tell intake from exhaust, how can I trust that their set numbers are going to be correct?
Did you see the motor running at the end? Since the making of thos video, this mower has mowed over 100 acres of land. Take a step back and think about that for a second. 😉🧐
@@thejungleexplorer Goes to show that these motors will run even with the wrong settings. Probably not running optimally but running. The video would have been an A+ with the proper identification of the valves. Still decent with the disclaimer that the valves were miss-identified.
The "first "valve to move is dictated by where in the cycle the engine stopped the last time it ran
The top valve is exhaust. Aluminum push rod is intake
Thanks
Easy : 1) when piston go “in” the intake valve open 2) when piston go “up “ after power the exhaust valve open
Thank you for commenting PATOUH2!
My valves look like they're barely opening... Camshaft is new. Backfires through carb. Misses over half throttle. Any ideas?
Boy, that sounds weird. Might be time to take it to an expert.
@@thejungleexplorer I think I have bad piston rings. I feel like I'm losing compression.
Why will my intake valve, the bottom one not move? The aluminum rod is not bent or cracked. This is a Yard Machine, 13.5 hp Briggs and Stratton,38 inch cut. Thank you
I am sorry, I am not sure what the issue is with your machine.
I used your measurements and I'm still getting compression lock. What's the next setting?
Could be decompression valve. ruclips.net/video/hBuUxf8deCM/видео.html
He was mistaken on which valve was intake and which was exhaust. It's a 4 stroke engine.
He's wrong. Top is exhaust (steal rod)and bottom is intake (Aluminum rod). Exhaust (top) clearance should be .005-.007 inches. Intake (bottom) should be .003-.005 inches.
Thank you for commenting Tim Whit! I am so sorry to hear that.
Can you set both at .004 inch
Thank you for commenting HomemadeBuilds88! I am sorry, I do not know how to answer this question.
I always put steel push rods in top and bottom.. otherwise if the aluminum pushrod comes loose ti shoots it inside the motor.. steel can still go in but not as much chance
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the metal push rod is exaust the aluminum is the intake so r u wrong or me im rusty at it tho ... ???????
Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the support.
If he did it wrong how did the mower start?
I keep adjusting the lash according to about 6 of these videos , each one is a little different and now I am completely confused , the keyway was sheared to begin with , I fixed that and now it keeps backfiring through the carburetor any ideas?
Like you, I watched a dozen videos trying to figure this out. After watching them all, I made this video to try to offer all the information in a more concise manner because so many if the videos did not show the process right or had conflicting and confusing information.
You may have to readjust them. I have to do mine about once season.
William Burdon don't worry about finding top dead center and all the other BS he showed just turn your motor over until one of the valves is open and one is fully closed adjust the open 1 to 4000 rotate the motor until the opposite one opens and the other ones closed adjust down 4000 this will get your motor running if you still have compression problems check your camshaftThe decompression lift is probably not working on the camshaft
@@dirtdognunya7866 Thanks I will try that , and let you know what happens , I really
appreciate the answer!
@@dirtdognunya7866 Thanks nunya , I did as you suggested and the mower started and ran on its own fuel supply , it is still popping through the carb a bit though, should I try to set the valve lash open a little more ? What would be your next step?
Make sure push rods are straight first boys number one thing to check for adjusting
Thanks for commenting.
The top valve is the exhaust valve the botton valve is the intake
Thanks for commenting
The jam nuts lock mechanism is called MOLY-LOCK. That has been around for a long time JE.
Good info
@@thejungleexplorer Thanks for helping us all on RUclips with your how to video Sir. Peace vf
Poly Lock.
What if the flywheel on top doesn't want to turn and sticks?
If it won't turn at all, it may be froze up.
The top valve is the exhaust. You can tell when you remove the exhaust you can see the valve
Thank you for commenting.
Yes! I did the same! Top is exhaust!!!!
I just set them both at 4/5 though
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Find tdc first to to find your in and ex valves.. find tdc by using the screwdriver trick like you showed as well as the point where both in and ex valves are free floating
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How did you know you were on compression stroke and not exhaust stroke??
When the piston comes up and neither valves are opening or closing. You know it’s compression stroke going into combustion
@@jrenna07 WRONG, COULD BE EITHER STROKE.
I demonstrate this in the video, but there are about a thousand comments on this video telling how to do this as well.
I was told to set both to .004 and yes the bottom is the intake
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Need to know how to get the valve cover off
Thank you for commenting Lorna Hemminger! The video demonstrates how to do this.
Exhaust is the top valve folks.
Thanks for commenting
2 watches ? Nice video tho im gonna try this my self
1 watch. 1 Fitbit
Hey Jungle Explorer, thanks for the vid, it was very specific and informative. After the adjustments have been made and my engine still doesn't start, or starts for a sec with starting fluid, but won't stay running. While I try to start it, the engine will actually kick back the opposite direction. I have tried 3 different valve adjustments from 3 different video's and the engine does the same thing. Is TDC between the closing of intake valve and opening of exhaust valve, or between closing of exhaust valve and opening of intake valve?
Sounds like the engine may need more than just and adjustment
Your key way is sheared or compression release is broken
Likely needs a carburetor cleaning or just replace
with a new carb. Just cleaning the main jet on the bottom will probably allow it to stay running but not idle smooth until the whole unit is cleaned.
Why do most videos say to also rotate exhaust valve to TDC before adjusting it.????
Thank you for commenting
When you were rotating you were seeing the exhaust stroke and then the intake stroke there would have been a compression stroke between the intake and the exhaust stroke valves moving so you just adjusted the wrong gap for intake and exhaust.
Both adjusted to the same gap
He's got his valves mixed up. Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. After turning the engine, the Intake should move first if it is at the beginning of the cycle. He had his engine in the middle of the cycle (on the Power stroke) then the first valve to move was the exhaust. So he got it wrong. Easy to do if you are not sure where you are in the cycle. Basically if you turn the engine and nothing (with respect to the valves) happens, you are in the compression/power stroke. So.. turn the engine until you don't see any valve move for a good full turn. Then the Intake will be the first to move. So on this engine, it is the bottom valve. Or as others have said, look for the steel or darker push rod (assuming they weren't taken out and put in wrong). So.. the video is good as far as how to adjust them and the adjustment settings but you have to ignore how he tells you the top valve is the intake and use his settings in reverse.
Runs like a top and has mowed a hundred acres since this video. Funny how I got so wrong and it runs so great, isn't it?
Loop
Thanks
Hay ! Your wrong on int. Valve and exh. Just look for aluminum push rod , that's intake. It's on the bottom.
Thank you for this great information B. I appreciate it very much when viewers contribute useful information as you have here.
You have the valves identified wrong ,the one near the sump is the intake and the top one is the exhaust thanks
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Great video awesome of you taking time to upload and share. I could not get a 10 mm box end wrench on my nuts needed a 5/8. My nuts might be bigger than yours I don’t know.
Thank you for commenting eviloctober! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Yes, they do make changes over the years. My 2014 John Deere D105 has the 17.5 HP Briggs engine, and the valve adjusting nuts are 5/8 inch. Same adjustment procedure, but my specs are .005-.007 for the exhaust, (the top valve), and .003-.005 for the intake, (the lower valve). So I set them at the middle of the range, .006 exhaust and. 004 intake.
Las varillas de punterías son de la misma medida
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Top is Exhaust!!!!!!!!
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Top is exhaust
Thank you for commenting bravo2aviation!
Good video but I think the wrench tightens the jam nut while the torx is the adjuster. I could be wrong but it would explain that the clearance got tighter after tightening the torx.
Thank you for commenting @bluebelieve!