Adjusting the OHV valves on a Briggs 17.5 Intek
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- goo.gl/jf53lt Click link to pick up B&S parts.
I bought a Briggs and Stratton 17.5 HP Intek engine with a broken head, and in this video I show you how to attach the new cylinder head and valves. Part 1 of this series shows how to remove the engine from the tractor. Disclaimer:
Doublewide6 has a Master’s Degree in industrial technology with a specialization in Manufacturing, due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 and anyone featured in his videos, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Doublewide6 assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of Doublewide6’s videos. Use this information at your own risk. Doublewide6 recommends safe practices when working on equipment, power tools, chemicals, electronics, electrical systems, vehicles, and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Doublewide6. Please support Doublewide6 by donating to his Patreon Account / doublewide6
doublewide6... Thanks for the help. I knew the valves were out of time on my B&S 18.5 HP. But wasn't for sure how to go about re-timing them. My owners manual says intake setting is 3-5 thousandths and exhaust is 5-7. I wasn't having any luck. I came across your video and you suggested 6 thousandths on both intake and exhaust. That was the trick! She's purring like a kitten now.
Yeah, that is going to be one of my best video series. I put the parts in tonight and filmed it. I am going to put it in the tractor and try it out tomorrow. I feel bad for my neighbor he gave me the tractor and a week later I'm going to be cruising around the yard with this thing. I wish he would have asked me to fix it and not just buy a new one.
Note that the valve adjustment distances are incorrectly quoted. They should be; intake (aluminum push rod) 0.003" to 0.005", exhaust (steel push rod) 0.005" to 0.007"
that is correct
by any chance do you know if the engine has been updated? i have the same engine but mine has a black shroud where yours is red and has been used for a few years. i bought it used and runs pretty good. i guess i have to check valve clearance.
Nice job sir, you explained the job well, that’s the 4th feeler gauge setting I’ve seen for the same engine, I guess I need to get the model number off of mine to get the right setting. You did a good job though .
I always tighten the nut to hold the set screw in place, takes a little patience to get it right, and tight. Otherwise you end up with bent or broken push rods.
great video thanks. I have Craftsmann lt1000 with B&S 18hp OHV that looks very similar. It is a 2003. For the past 2 seasons I have had very intermittent operation. It will cold start easily as long as I have a fully charged battery. It runs well at both low and high rpms for about an hour. Then it sputters when I slow it down to empty the bagger. Eventually it stalls and wont start again. Sometimes it will start again and run well if I let it sit for an hour or so.
I have changed the gas cap thinking it could be clogged and slowing flow after a while. The fuel system does not appear to have a fuel pump. the gas tank is just to the rear and a bit higher than the engine and I don't see a fuel pump. Lines appear to go from tank to filter (which I have changed) to side of carb.
I had to replace a battery that was only 2 years old which makes me wonder about the battery charging. Unfortunately the ammeter is inoperative; but I did check voltage on the battery terminals while engine was running at operating speed. It was only about 12.6 volts. I know car chargers run 13.5 to 15 or so. Is that what I should see for this engine?
Any ideas or helpful suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
anniversary4 It could be the low idle circuit of the carb. The battery should be charging at 13.5V. Perhaps the regulator if the engine has one or the ACDC stator under the flywheel not producing the right voltage. Clean the carb first if the engine does not idle. If it will idle with choke on it is most likely the carb. When coils modules go bad they get hot and you lose spark. Check for spark when it will not start. Good luck.
doublewide6 Thank you.
+anniversary4
Before doing anything drastic take off the top of the motor to expose the cooling fins. It maybe a mouse nest blocking air flow. Your symptoms are exactly what I experienced on my air cooled engine some years ago. I had to swallow my pride and take my mother-in-law's advice to investigate this possibility after all my other efforts failed. After removing the obstruction and the dried remains of a mouse it ran just fine. It was a tough old Simplicity.
You adjust valves on an automotive engine at TDC compression stroke. They don't have a compression release. On lawnmower engines, you should rotate past TDC on the compression stroke a 1/4 turn on the flywheel to make sure you're not adjusting against the compression release actuator on the cam lobe. .03 to .05 on the intake (aluminum push rod) .05 to .07 on the exhaust (steel push rod) for this engine.
Lets zero in on this 1/4" past TDC. My Briggs Manual says using a rod (i.e. screwdriver) against the top of the cylinder, rotate past TDC to measuring rod on cylinder goes down 1/4". Thus would be the cylinder moving 1/4" in past TDC.
BOB Driver: .03 to .05 is 30 thousands and 50 thousands of an inch. The spec is 3 to 5 thousands of an inch. Huge difference. You are missing a zero in each of your distances quoted.
So does the piston have to be all the way to the top?? Are until u feel it with the screw driver and then see if both rockers are loose??
1/4" PAST top dead center is proper way to adjust
Hey thanks for this video! You helped me out a million!
I have same 17.5HP as in video. checking compression I have exhaust but no pressure on intake. broke valve? possibly stuck valve?? your guess???
If I ever get a hold of another 19.5 hp twin cylinder engine for mine I'm going to snap it up because that motor on my husquavana ride on mower keeps blowing the head gasgets. I have never had any troubles with my twin cylinder engine on my craftsman ride on mower but lots with the single cylinder one on my husky.
What would make it take a huge gulp of oil and blow heavy blue oil smoke ONLY when the tractor is leaning heavily to the left or right? Flat ground, never smokes. Starts easly and runs great otherwise.
sounds like a broken ring
Great video fellow youtuber [But I wonted to tell you that both valves shouldn't be set at 6 thousands /intake should be 3 to 5 and exhaust should be 5 to 7] even though the engine will run you could float a valve at high rpm causing the push rod to bend. iam a master service tec for Briggs and Stratton. [Just wonted to help.] once again great video.
My manual says 004 and 006, B&S intel ohc
Great video. Thank you. What did you use to clean the head and piston? Thank you!
Why are the rods made from different metals, and why are they installed the way they are? Thank you for your vids!
Stan
The exhaust valve gets hot, and requires a steel rod to the best of my knowledge.
because briggs and stratton engine designers for the intec series smoked lots of crack...seriously..there is not good reason to so that other than save a few pennies for each engine. Apparently, it was enough to convince the bean counters it could save/make more money. But to the owner, who maintains these engines, having different materials is just asking for headaches. and yes, it happens often.
this is the reality of small air cooled engine design that happened in the 80's and hasn't changed much since. Briggs is notoriious with lots of reliability problems with their engines.
Thank you for the video. I just picked up a lts1500 with the same motor for free. I am in the process of rebuilding it. I do have it running but want to adjust the valves and replace the the carb. But other then that I just used it a day ago on a 4 acer yard and it cut with no problem. But I want to make sure it runs perfectly and last a long time. Is there anything else I should look over on this tractor.
can anyone tell me what would cause the flywheel key to keep shearing off, assuming the valve timing is close to spec?
I was told to torque the flywheel or it will shear every time
did you check the head for warpage? what was the highest compression?
NICE JOB!
Nice Job! You could do voice overs for Tom Hanks!,i just got one of these mowers. my engine is all black. ?,how do you adjust the idle?
Thanks for the good video
What can u use in place on filler tool
So TDC center is when your balding head shows up covering up the work you are trying to explain so no one can see what you are doing?😅
HELP Same engine Intek 17.5 I did as you have shown. I got both intake and exhaust at 6 thousands. Spun it over and got it back to TDC and checked again 6 thousands. So that is OK. Put the plug back in and same shit. New battery. all cables good. Even pulled the air filter off. Any helpful suggestions most welcome.
William, (9 dos ago), did you get your engine adjusted. Im dumb, but if you have a twin cylinder engine, the firing is going to alternate between head ( cylinders), so make sure your tDC goes is on the cylinder firing, as one of them is in limbo while the other one is firing, it could be mistaken for the firing cylinder at TDC when it is the other. Adjust the firing cylinder barely past TDC. see above.
Waiting on that transaxle .....
Another Great video. Thanks very much. I enjoyed watching.
great video glad i watched had the pushrods backwards. still not running but don't think i adjusted valves at tdc going to try again tomorrow. these motors don't get very good reviews B&S aren't as good as they use to be in my opinion.
Great video
I was only able to see the TOP DEAD CENTER of your head, come on check your video before posting!
You don't have too but what causes head gasket issues overtime is people not getting the head plained at the ye ole machine shop...
No big but it should be done.
Nice saw.. lol.
What does top dead center mean??
This is the point in the piston's stroke at which the air/fuel mixture is maximally compressed. Ignition should occur at TDC. Basically the piston is all the way up..
Ya I heard you say that
Valve lash..
It would be good to keep your head out of the video!
cant see what your talking about tdc with your bald head in the way.......lol!
When I pick my nose hairs, I will save them for you to paste on top of your head. Gettin kinda thin there.
Way too much extraneous knowledge of other mechanisms interjected and far too many ads in the middle of the procedure. If you have too much time on your hands have at it.
Get to the valve lash, we don't give a crap about the broke valve .
get your fin head out of the way