Father owns a variety of STIHL Saws from when he worked on the Mountain cutting timber. Watching their reliability as a kid I knew what brand of saw I would get. I currently own the smaller ms180 and ms250 saws. They have been very reliable and fulfill my needs for doing work around the home, cutting firewood for the stove, etc.
It's not that it beat it really. There are a ton of variables that play a big factor in the performance of a saw. How sharp the chain is, how aggressive the rakers are set, variations in the wood density. I think the block on the right had more knots in it. That little MS180 has a higher chain speed due to the oversized drive sprocket I put on it, that sure helps that little thing sing if you keep the rpm's up! I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching! 👍🏻
I've owned both the MS170 and MS250! The MS 250 has a terrible filter system and it plugged up every 15 minutes in dirty wood. The MS250 having to run the bigger chain is not in a sweet spot in my opinion. I'll take the MS170 or 180 everytime. On the MS170 I do the muffler mod and advance the flywheel 1/4" and the saw comes to life! The flywheel advance is worth more than the muffler mod IME
@@sawsonthefarm The key is cast into the flywheel as a solid piece. I removed 2/3 of the key from the flywheel with a dremel or file and advance 1/4". Removing 2/3 gives just enouph room to advance it. Make sure you remove the material from the correct side. In the end only one side of the key makes contact with the keyway on the crank. Because of the taper when you tighten the flywheel back down it will stay put and has zero problems with movement. I leave a little piece of the key on the flywheel as a guide should I ever disassemble the saw.
Father owns a variety of STIHL Saws from when he worked on the Mountain cutting timber. Watching their reliability as a kid I knew what brand of saw I would get. I currently own the smaller ms180 and ms250 saws. They have been very reliable and fulfill my needs for doing work around the home, cutting firewood for the stove, etc.
how is 32cc beat 45cc ??
It's not that it beat it really. There are a ton of variables that play a big factor in the performance of a saw. How sharp the chain is, how aggressive the rakers are set, variations in the wood density. I think the block on the right had more knots in it. That little MS180 has a higher chain speed due to the oversized drive sprocket I put on it, that sure helps that little thing sing if you keep the rpm's up! I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching! 👍🏻
I've owned both the MS170 and MS250! The MS 250 has a terrible filter system and it plugged up every 15 minutes in dirty wood. The MS250 having to run the bigger chain is not in a sweet spot in my opinion. I'll take the MS170 or 180 everytime. On the MS170 I do the muffler mod and advance the flywheel 1/4" and the saw comes to life! The flywheel advance is worth more than the muffler mod IME
Nice! How are you advancing the flywheel ,(step key)?
@@sawsonthefarm The key is cast into the flywheel as a solid piece. I removed 2/3 of the key from the flywheel with a dremel or file and advance 1/4". Removing 2/3 gives just enouph room to advance it. Make sure you remove the material from the correct side. In the end only one side of the key makes contact with the keyway on the crank. Because of the taper when you tighten the flywheel back down it will stay put and has zero problems with movement. I leave a little piece of the key on the flywheel as a guide should I ever disassemble the saw.
Wow! I can’t believe it doesn’t slip! That’s pretty cool! If you’re looking at the flywheel side you advance the flywheel counter clockwise correct?
@@sawsonthefarm you advance clockwise
Yes, that makes sense after visualizing it! Thanks I think I might Try this. Does it make the saw harder to start as in more finicky?