I'm puzzled . Should I do this??? Don't want to ruin model i was working on so long . How long do you wait to rip the foil off?? I've heard that it's good to wait one day to let the decal properly soak in and settle. Any thoughts???
@@Foksipanter Totally up to you, though if you wait a day, and use decal softeners and setting chemicals then the chance of ripping up decals should be very low - as I said though, completely up to you
Your video was very clear and concise, and also well produced. That said, I don’t like this new process at all. It doesn’t simplify anything, and in fact makes an already delicate task even harder. Piss off, Eduard.
Thanks - very helpful. However, I still don't think we should be left to deal with ANY glitches with something as straightforward as a decals. Not convinced that this is a forward step from Eduard. I've seen another method displayed using masking tape to lift the film. Have you tried that?
I'd completely agree. They sort of semi get away with the glitches, as they don't directly market the decals as having removable cover film - only subtly hint towards it as an option. They're sort of covering themselves here in a way. But despite this, I definitely think it could be refined a lot more, and as you say, you'd expect it for something as simple as decals! Edit: forgot to mention, yeah I did come across some other methods to remove the cover film, like the masking tape as you say, along with another way which is using mineral spirits to dissolve it off. Both of which I've seen to work pretty well, though I decided the knife peel method was the most reliable from my experience. Hope this all helps 👍👍
Great video . My question is how do I know I've got new style decals ? I've just discovered that I have by accident when the film pulled away when I did a bit of extra masking . There is nothing in the instruction booklet by the way . 2021 1:72 Fokker DVII .
Yeah they aren't explicit with it - you can however tell by holding the sheet up to the light, and if the cover film looks speckled then it's the new type
Anything after 6/20/20 is going to be "new style" and you can hold up to the light to see the film. Plus they have a "spotty" look to them that normal ones don't. Eduard puts the copyright date on the sheet so if it's 2021 or later, they're new. 2020 dates you need to investigate.
Very nice video, thanks. I've tried sticking masking tape over the decal and it peels the protective layer right off. That way there is less chance of damaging the decal.
Heya, totally valid opinion! I would highly recommend checking out my updated version of this video, however, as it proposes a much more effective method :) link the description :)
Ok, so I would say a gloss coat is a nessesity, I found that an actual satin coat is better for removing the film if you press the decals down firmly. Very useful is to use the GSI softing and setting stuff NEO. Crusual is to leave the decal with the film to sit for a day at least so it has time to set. (but of course gloss coat isn't something bad..)
If you're uncomfortable using the blade you can also carefully remove the film with white spirit and a brush - this however comes with its own challenges, as using too much white spirit could damage the decal. Alternatively, you don't have to remove the film if you don't feel comfortable with it
So the Micro Sol goes through the carrier film? Very interesting. But honestly, I don't see the benefit over traditional decals. Removing the film seems like a PITA.
Yeah it is an annoying process - there is however a much safer and easier process using white spirit instead, which I'm planning on making an updated video about Pretty sure the micro sol doesn't go through the film, just melts it (I may have phrased that badly in the video)
@@ModellingWeekly I always thought that it didn't really penetrate the film which is why some love the new top film because they can remove it and it doesn't mess up bare metal skin aircraft.
I believe they're the 2021 releases or sooner, but the sure-fire way to tell is if you hold them up to a light and tilt them around so they glint, the surface will appear patchy/speckly instead of smooth
Well done mate. The amount of people who moan about them without putting in the effort to see how they work is crazy. One thing I'm going to try is setting solution under and not over. And then mineral spirits to release the film. I heads good things about that too. The big letdown with these decals are the obvious digital printmarks instead of the usual screen printing that leaves a solid colour. Great video once again !
@@ModellingWeekly from what I gather the spirits dissolve the clear film reducing the need to peel and thus lift what’s underneath. This work even better for working over recessed rivets etc.
If you still have any of these decals left try this again and use Tamiya X-20 Enamel thinners on a brush it is what i do the film will melt and lift away from the colour underneath leaving a perfect decal hope it works for others
Thanks for the helpful video. One problem with these new decals is that they are not true wet transfers. Although you can most of the time peel off the film, it's not guaranteed that the layer underneath stays intact. I have found that especially small decals and stencils will break and peel off with the film when you remove it. With stencils there's so little to stick to surface, it's maybe the same phenomenon why very thin strips of tape don't stick well and move around. I haven't used real wet transfer stencils from HGW, but I bet they're not like this.
Glad you found it helpful! You're entirely correct, the way Eduard have gone about this feature is very unrefined and pretty lackluster, especially compared with the likes of hgw
@@ModellingWeekly the only reason for this change must be that they can reduce the costs considerably. In other words they can make more profit. At least for the limited editions they should provide cartograf decals, like they use to. I paid 56€ for the recent B-25j, and I think I'm not willing to take the risk of peeling off the nose art decals. How do you touch up a complicated picture like that? Insignia probably, but not a pin up with hair etc.
Special Hobby newer Bf 109 E kits have that kind of decals too. I don't like them, because it's easy to damage the printed colors. They peels off with the clear film or you may damage with the tweezers or hobby knife. To me, these new decals are way too delicate and fiddly to bring on. In the end i bought a common aftermarket decal sheet to finish my 109 model. 😕
@@ModellingWeekly you have earned both tips. That just opened up a whole bunch of kits that I won't need to get aftermarket decals for now (but I can still get at a lower price 😜) Your explanation and demonstration was top shelf, clear and concise. Including the tips for how most of us make simple mistakes and how to deal with them was worth the second tip there (first one crashed the YT app in the premier)
@@crazylocha2515 I'm so glad I could help you out mate, and thanks so much again for the tips, they will help the channel out massively :) My goal with these sorts of videos is enriching the modelling experience of others, and I'm so happy you could benefit from it! Thanks again, and model on 👍👍
OK that was interesting however I am struggling to see any benefits in the finished look?? In the case of the RAF Roundrel it appears very poor in colour terms? Bob England
I wonder whether Eduard marks this new type of decals somehow in their kits? I was restoring a P-51 that I assembled 2 years ago or so and noticed that some markings have rather thick over them and back then I didn't have a glue that this film had to be peeled... I treated them back then as any regular decals and no special instructions were in the manual... The decals have been on the model for two years with all the weathering and satin varnish on top, so I better leave them as they are... But to hell with Eduard for introducing new technology without proper info in the mental.
Yeah, it's annoying that they don't outwardly say which are which. If you have the original sheet then it's fairly easy to tell as I showed into rh video, but still it's not great
N8ce video. In your opinion though, how would you rate the Eduard decals vs "aftermarket" decals like HGW and others. Personally, I have not been too impressed by Eduards decals even though I prefer their kits and resin parts
Thanks mate :) Being completely honest, I definitely feel as though Eduard's decals are far from being at the top of the range. Especially in comparison to their other products as you mentioned, the decals are definitely lacking. Print quality isn't great, and they're still fairly thick even after the cover film is removed. Then again, they're not the worst I've come across, and definitely could have gone much worse than they are lol
I'm finishing with Eduard's repack of Arma's Hurricane in 1/72 scale - there's such decals included in the kit. I found print quality somewhat poor. Solid colors (roundels for instance) are somewhat fine, however text (squadron codes, for instance) is very 'pixelated' - I can clearly see 'ladder' of pixels on letters like "A" and so. Gray letters actually seems to be mix of gray and lighter grayish pixels. Even within same sheet quality is inconsistent: tiny stencils are very clear being printed in one color, however small nose art is very blurry. Very mixed feelings in overall: had no problems peeling film off, painted on look of decals is very nice, however quality of print is ranged from okayish to bad. Weathering and varnish layer slightly smoothes this effect though.
It's mainly just a side effect of the new printing process Eduard uses, however it does also make the film easier to remove so that's a bonus if you're up for doing that (I'd recommend following the steps in my latest video if you do choose to remove it however, as it outlines a much easier method- link in description:) )
My question is more along the lines. What happens to the decal if I don't build the kit for like, let's say, 10 months? Not all of us build them right away. I've learned to make decals from the 60's kits usable, its a process, but it works. Now with those, hmm? Looks like extra step, and no real benefit, however opens up some ways for things going wrong. Just thinking out loud. Thank you for reply.👍
@@wojciechkoska3515 can't be sure what they'll be like in 5 to 10 years time as they haven't been out long enough yet, however I have 2020 Eduard kits in my stash with these decals and they're still fine so it's looking good so far
Is it possible to simplify the process of removing the clear film by pressing a piece of adhesive tape on the decal and then pull it off, together with the film?
Really great video, thanks for your efforts. However, Eduard what are you doing? They had the best decals out there and then this! This step is just unnecessary faff at a crucial stage. I had several tear on my models, even being super careful. It seems very hit and miss and simply not worth the risk at a stage where it's too late to repaint to another scheme. And seeing as Eduard themselves deny that this is even a method we should employ, says how much faith they have in their product. Proper painted markings would be easier at this stage and less risky. Thanks again for the video. Dan
Hit and miss sums it nicely. First Eduard claimed that there was nothing different with their decals, but later they said that you can peel them, or treat as normal decals. These decals are a bad compromise, not real wet transfers, neither good decals.
Thanks a lot for taking your time for this video. I found it very useful. I know Eduard says that these kind of decals are meant to be pealed off, they claim they' re " ordinary ones". I have 3 or 4 kits with these new decals and I am not sure I will peel them off. Have you tried to set them in the regular way?. I mean, as other ordinary decals?. If you don"t peal them off is there any diffeence with other conventional decals?. Thanks in advance.
I have in fact used them as normal decals on occasion. They seemingly work pretty well, though the cover film is slightly more noticeable than with your bog standard cartograf variety. Not a huge issue though. Hope this helps!
@@ModellingWeekly thanks a lot mate for the answer. Helped me a lot. I think I'll use them as usual decals, as my modelling skills are not to high. Thanks again!.
Probably a silly question but how do you know if an Eduard kit has the old or new decals? I have not built an Eduardo kit yet but have a couple in my stash.
Very good question! The telltale sign is if they have patchy/mottled cover film. It sort of shows it off in the video's intro - on the decal sheet, the cover varnish looks somewhat patchy. This is the new type 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips. The other alternative is use aftermarket decals, as what I do instead of these decals. I don't see the benefit of the film and to me it's just a downgrade.
How do you know which Eduard decals are “new” and applicable with this technique? Only Eduard? I can see picking at decals in this manner only to ruin the colour layer 😢
Eduard have a detailed guide to applying the new decals on pages 52-61 of Eduard Info from May 2021 (Issue 135). They state that "The new generation of Eduard decals has been developed since 2018. In all kits of all Eduard series, these decals have been standard since September 2019. Another type of decals is not used for Eduard kits after this date, the same applies to Eduard Decals sets."
I assume that Eduard created this kind of decal to protect the surface when applying and handling them. Any other reason? Do you think that this is superior to ordinary decals?
Were this style of decal made by mistake, or design ? Information on removing the carrier film is no where to be seen on any kits, or the Eduard web site ( as far as I am aware ). It would seem that someone discovered it by picking away at it, & others have perfected the method i.e. using mineral spirits.
Originally by accident, though the cover film was modified at a point by Eduard to make it easier to remove - they don't openly promote it, as it's far from refined
As if applying decals wasn't delicate or time consuming enough, Eduard went and increased the work required to finish the model and the steps where something can go wrong. Remind me not to buy a modern military jet from them where applying as many of the hundreds of decals as possible becomes an exercise in patience, now have to remove the carrier film as well. Pretty sure some people just leave it on.
You can leave it on if you want, you don't have to remove it. You can also use white spirit to dissolve the cover film instead of peeling it off. Again though, if you don't want to do it, nobody is forcing you to
Why doesn't Eduard advertise these decals, at least in kit instructions, or on the kit boxing itself? It would be very helpful to all of us in the hobby.
Good question, and I believe it's to cover themselves from any negative response - as they're far from perfect when removing the film, Eduard would receive a bad rep if the specifically marketed them as removable cover film decals if you get what I mean
Why don't they allow more room between decals to give you more ckear film edging to get up and start peeling further away from the decal making less chance if damaging it with a scalpel
I'm an Eduard fan, but feel that these decals are a backwards step, very hit and miss on the results (had an absolute nightmare with the 1:72 Mig 21 Polish swordfish decals, one side was perfect, the other lifted in multiple places 🤬
I don't see the point of applying Mircosol over the decal film when you intend to remove it. Ive used these decals on an Eduard Spitfire and they worked great. Workflow was... Paint, sand/polish the paint (no gloss). Apply Microsol (not Microset) Apply decal, remove excess fluids and hammer decal into surface detail with a cotton bud. Leave for 24 hours and remove film, which come off very easily with no damage to markings.
Japanese company MYK produce after-market decals that work in much the same way although I haven't tried using them yet. To be honest the added complexity - and risk of mucking up the model - have put me off the idea. Particularly as you get perfectly good results from applying regular decals over a gloss finish, treating with MicroSol and MicroSet and then finishing with a top coat of varnish.
@@DarrellThompson47 Regarding the new decals - they can be recognized by having a production date on them - 23.06.2020 and forward. Its true the coat can be removed once dried, but it requires some skills and experience. We do not suggest to our customers they should or need to do this. The decals can be worked with the same way as before- with the older once. So using the method of removing the top layer is up to the customer - at their own risk."
I just don't see the point with this process. The regular wet slide decals suits me fine. The only thing I agree with is the microset and microsol. One mans medicine is another mans poison.
@@brucekellett2269 yeah I don't see the point in it either, it's just an educational video for people who are facing the new Eduard decals :) i have a newer video on this with an easier solution as well 👍
Sorry, but NO WAY would I go through that palaver. Just the thought of going through that process for all the tiny stencils on a modern aircraft gives me the screaming heebie-jeebies. See Peter Oxley's two videos of trying Eduard decals. I will never buy another Eduard kit again whilst they persist on these disastrous decals. I now have to find after-market replacement decals for the one Eduard kit I currently have in my stash.
I agree, the recommended technique is sub optimal. I have an updated video on the topic coming out tomorrow evening that showcases a much easier and effective way of dealing with them
To me this is the worst idea Eduard ever had. Their decals weren't great already, but this? It's like they messed up and then tried to make it look like it was intentional... Aftermarket decals are always the best option when it comes to Eduard kits.
Removing the carrier film is not necessary. Just use som varnish and it blends in! Modellers invent so much nonsense like preshading etc that makes no difference in the end!
In some cases the cover film does protrude and it does make a difference to remove it (I know this from experience) however if you wish to keep it on that is completely fine! It's your model after all. With respect to things like preshading, its again fine to not use these methods but don't knock other modellers for using them - they do work, and preshading especially can add a lot of dynamic range to a paint job if done correctly (see my recent 1/144 mig-17 as an example of where it really shows!)
There is no correct way to pronounce it :) but as we're being pedantic, here's the Cambridge dictionary saying that it's pronounced dee-cal: dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/decal
I hope you guys found this useful! :D
I'm puzzled . Should I do this??? Don't want to ruin model i was working on so long . How long do you wait to rip the foil off?? I've heard that it's good to wait one day to let the decal properly soak in and settle. Any thoughts???
@@Foksipanter Totally up to you, though if you wait a day, and use decal softeners and setting chemicals then the chance of ripping up decals should be very low - as I said though, completely up to you
Your video was very clear and concise, and also well produced. That said, I don’t like this new process at all. It doesn’t simplify anything, and in fact makes an already delicate task even harder. Piss off, Eduard.
Thanks for the video. Everyone should know that you do not need a gloss coat for this process or applying any other decal for that matter.
very helpful and its the first time i have seen someone do these decals
will try them myself now with confidence i wont ruin them too much
Glad the video could help!
oh my gosh this is completely game changing for instrument panels!
Thanks for the clear explanations. Already longtime, I wondered how to deal with Eduard's new decals.
No problem :)
These seem very impressive!
Thanks. For showing this new kind of decal.
I didn't know that you could do that with decals....
I guess that I learned something today...
Thank you 👍👍👍
Apparently only the new Eduard decals.
Thanks - very helpful. However, I still don't think we should be left to deal with ANY glitches with something as straightforward as a decals. Not convinced that this is a forward step from Eduard. I've seen another method displayed using masking tape to lift the film. Have you tried that?
I'd completely agree. They sort of semi get away with the glitches, as they don't directly market the decals as having removable cover film - only subtly hint towards it as an option. They're sort of covering themselves here in a way. But despite this, I definitely think it could be refined a lot more, and as you say, you'd expect it for something as simple as decals! Edit: forgot to mention, yeah I did come across some other methods to remove the cover film, like the masking tape as you say, along with another way which is using mineral spirits to dissolve it off. Both of which I've seen to work pretty well, though I decided the knife peel method was the most reliable from my experience. Hope this all helps 👍👍
Great video . My question is how do I know I've got new style decals ? I've just discovered that I have by accident when the film pulled away when I did a bit of extra masking . There is nothing in the instruction booklet by the way . 2021 1:72 Fokker DVII .
Yeah they aren't explicit with it - you can however tell by holding the sheet up to the light, and if the cover film looks speckled then it's the new type
Anything after 6/20/20 is going to be "new style" and you can hold up to the light to see the film. Plus they have a "spotty" look to them that normal ones don't. Eduard puts the copyright date on the sheet so if it's 2021 or later, they're new. 2020 dates you need to investigate.
Very nice video, thanks. I've tried sticking masking tape over the decal and it peels the protective layer right off. That way there is less chance of damaging the decal.
great video. Explains a lot. Now I know for sure that I will not use these decals, but will buy others.
Heya, totally valid opinion! I would highly recommend checking out my updated version of this video, however, as it proposes a much more effective method :) link the description :)
I'm already watching. super. But I will still buy decals separately. Thank you for the video.@@ModellingWeekly
Ok, now when the wildcat video, looks like a neat model
Just a test I'm afraid! Though I can build one up in the future if you'd like 👀
@@ModellingWeekly damn
Just like when using mission paints lotsa extra steps!😳
Jman
Ok, so I would say a gloss coat is a nessesity, I found that an actual satin coat is better for removing the film if you press the decals down firmly. Very useful is to use the GSI softing and setting stuff NEO. Crusual is to leave the decal with the film to sit for a day at least so it has time to set. (but of course gloss coat isn't something bad..)
One year later and I still hear about issues with these... Let's be honest it's very difficult to beat any Cartograph decals
Wow. Better and easier than expected. Thanks 👍
No problem! Glad to help
Nothing I enjoy more than after careful paint work and decaling is going at the model with a fresh razor blade.🫤
If you're uncomfortable using the blade you can also carefully remove the film with white spirit and a brush - this however comes with its own challenges, as using too much white spirit could damage the decal. Alternatively, you don't have to remove the film if you don't feel comfortable with it
So the Micro Sol goes through the carrier film? Very interesting.
But honestly, I don't see the benefit over traditional decals. Removing the film seems like a PITA.
Yeah it is an annoying process - there is however a much safer and easier process using white spirit instead, which I'm planning on making an updated video about
Pretty sure the micro sol doesn't go through the film, just melts it (I may have phrased that badly in the video)
@@ModellingWeekly I always thought that it didn't really penetrate the film which is why some love the new top film because they can remove it and it doesn't mess up bare metal skin aircraft.
How do you know which Eduard kits have these new decals and how can you tell them from the old ones?
I believe they're the 2021 releases or sooner, but the sure-fire way to tell is if you hold them up to a light and tilt them around so they glint, the surface will appear patchy/speckly instead of smooth
Another great video. Thank you for sharing
Many thanks mate, my pleasure
Well done mate. The amount of people who moan about them without putting in the effort to see how they work is crazy.
One thing I'm going to try is setting solution under and not over. And then mineral spirits to release the film. I heads good things about that too.
The big letdown with these decals are the obvious digital printmarks instead of the usual screen printing that leaves a solid colour.
Great video once again !
Thanks mate! Indeed...it's crazy lol. I heard about that mineral spirits thing, I shall give it a go as well!
@@ModellingWeekly from what I gather the spirits dissolve the clear film reducing the need to peel and thus lift what’s underneath. This work even better for working over recessed rivets etc.
If you still have any of these decals left try this again and use Tamiya X-20 Enamel thinners on a brush it is what i do the film will melt and lift away from the colour underneath leaving a perfect decal hope it works for others
Have heard of this before, would love to try it out! Glad to hear it went well with you, gives me more hope 👍
Thank you 🙏 very useful information
My pleasure! Many thanks :)
How do I know if my Eduard Profikit as the new style decals? Perhaps the 1/48 Mustang P51D Profipac has the older ones?
Guide on how to recognise them is in the video description :)
Thanks for the helpful video. One problem with these new decals is that they are not true wet transfers. Although you can most of the time peel off the film, it's not guaranteed that the layer underneath stays intact. I have found that especially small decals and stencils will break and peel off with the film when you remove it. With stencils there's so little to stick to surface, it's maybe the same phenomenon why very thin strips of tape don't stick well and move around. I haven't used real wet transfer stencils from HGW, but I bet they're not like this.
Glad you found it helpful! You're entirely correct, the way Eduard have gone about this feature is very unrefined and pretty lackluster, especially compared with the likes of hgw
@@ModellingWeekly the only reason for this change must be that they can reduce the costs considerably. In other words they can make more profit. At least for the limited editions they should provide cartograf decals, like they use to. I paid 56€ for the recent B-25j, and I think I'm not willing to take the risk of peeling off the nose art decals. How do you touch up a complicated picture like that? Insignia probably, but not a pin up with hair etc.
@@thekinksfan5102 oh totally, I agree completely
Great tutorial, i suppose that you can also use them with tamiya mark fit stuff?
Yup, no issues there at all 👍
Special Hobby newer Bf 109 E kits have that kind of decals too. I don't like them, because it's easy to damage the printed colors. They peels off with the clear film or you may damage with the tweezers or hobby knife. To me, these new decals are way too delicate and fiddly to bring on. In the end i bought a common aftermarket decal sheet to finish my 109 model. 😕
Wow!!! Eduard created an amazing look with this improved decal…
That saved Soo much pain and heartache.
Very glad!
Apologies with the previous reply, the tip hadn't loaded! Thank you so much my friend for your generosity, it means so much!
@@ModellingWeekly you have earned both tips. That just opened up a whole bunch of kits that I won't need to get aftermarket decals for now (but I can still get at a lower price 😜)
Your explanation and demonstration was top shelf, clear and concise. Including the tips for how most of us make simple mistakes and how to deal with them was worth the second tip there (first one crashed the YT app in the premier)
@@crazylocha2515 I'm so glad I could help you out mate, and thanks so much again for the tips, they will help the channel out massively :) My goal with these sorts of videos is enriching the modelling experience of others, and I'm so happy you could benefit from it! Thanks again, and model on 👍👍
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
No problem! Glad you like it!
So the decal softening solution goes through this membrane without affecting it?
It sorta affects the entire decal as one, so the membrane forms along with the print simultaneously :)
Looking forward to this! :)
Very glad! :)
Very helpful.
OK that was interesting however I am struggling to see any benefits in the finished look?? In the case of the RAF Roundrel it appears very poor in colour terms?
Bob
England
I wonder whether Eduard marks this new type of decals somehow in their kits? I was restoring a P-51 that I assembled 2 years ago or so and noticed that some markings have rather thick over them and back then I didn't have a glue that this film had to be peeled... I treated them back then as any regular decals and no special instructions were in the manual... The decals have been on the model for two years with all the weathering and satin varnish on top, so I better leave them as they are... But to hell with Eduard for introducing new technology without proper info in the mental.
Yeah, it's annoying that they don't outwardly say which are which. If you have the original sheet then it's fairly easy to tell as I showed into rh video, but still it's not great
N8ce video. In your opinion though, how would you rate the Eduard decals vs "aftermarket" decals like HGW and others. Personally, I have not been too impressed by Eduards decals even though I prefer their kits and resin parts
Thanks mate :) Being completely honest, I definitely feel as though Eduard's decals are far from being at the top of the range. Especially in comparison to their other products as you mentioned, the decals are definitely lacking. Print quality isn't great, and they're still fairly thick even after the cover film is removed. Then again, they're not the worst I've come across, and definitely could have gone much worse than they are lol
I'm finishing with Eduard's repack of Arma's Hurricane in 1/72 scale - there's such decals included in the kit. I found print quality somewhat poor. Solid colors (roundels for instance) are somewhat fine, however text (squadron codes, for instance) is very 'pixelated' - I can clearly see 'ladder' of pixels on letters like "A" and so. Gray letters actually seems to be mix of gray and lighter grayish pixels. Even within same sheet quality is inconsistent: tiny stencils are very clear being printed in one color, however small nose art is very blurry.
Very mixed feelings in overall: had no problems peeling film off, painted on look of decals is very nice, however quality of print is ranged from okayish to bad. Weathering and varnish layer slightly smoothes this effect though.
What is the benefit of extra film on top of decal? Is it protecting something?
It's mainly just a side effect of the new printing process Eduard uses, however it does also make the film easier to remove so that's a bonus if you're up for doing that (I'd recommend following the steps in my latest video if you do choose to remove it however, as it outlines a much easier method- link in description:) )
My question is more along the lines. What happens to the decal if I don't build the kit for like, let's say, 10 months? Not all of us build them right away. I've learned to make decals from the 60's kits usable, its a process, but it works. Now with those, hmm? Looks like extra step, and no real benefit, however opens up some ways for things going wrong. Just thinking out loud. Thank you for reply.👍
@@wojciechkoska3515 can't be sure what they'll be like in 5 to 10 years time as they haven't been out long enough yet, however I have 2020 Eduard kits in my stash with these decals and they're still fine so it's looking good so far
@ModellingWeekly Thank you. I heard some Japanese kits have them also, but can't confirm.
Looks fantastic.
But I would mess this up for sure 🙈
Thanks! I'm sure you'd be fine :)
so would I !
Is it possible to simplify the process of removing the clear film by pressing a piece of adhesive tape on the decal and then pull it off, together with the film?
Very informative!
Glad it could help!
Really great video, thanks for your efforts. However, Eduard what are you doing? They had the best decals out there and then this! This step is just unnecessary faff at a crucial stage. I had several tear on my models, even being super careful. It seems very hit and miss and simply not worth the risk at a stage where it's too late to repaint to another scheme. And seeing as Eduard themselves deny that this is even a method we should employ, says how much faith they have in their product. Proper painted markings would be easier at this stage and less risky. Thanks again for the video. Dan
Hit and miss sums it nicely. First Eduard claimed that there was nothing different with their decals, but later they said that you can peel them, or treat as normal decals. These decals are a bad compromise, not real wet transfers, neither good decals.
@@thekinksfan5102 Absolutely, and the colour printing is way worse too. All in all, a real shame.
You've hit the nail on the head mate! Really badly executed by Eduard overall, and the sad thing is they know it!
They should just go back to cartograph decals...their new set up is complete rubbish
Thanks a lot for taking your time for this video. I found it very useful. I know Eduard says that these kind of decals are meant to be pealed off, they claim they' re " ordinary ones". I have 3 or 4 kits with these new decals and I am not sure I will peel them off. Have you tried to set them in the regular way?. I mean, as other ordinary decals?. If you don"t peal them off is there any diffeence with other conventional decals?. Thanks in advance.
I have in fact used them as normal decals on occasion. They seemingly work pretty well, though the cover film is slightly more noticeable than with your bog standard cartograf variety. Not a huge issue though. Hope this helps!
@@ModellingWeekly thanks a lot mate for the answer. Helped me a lot. I think I'll use them as usual decals, as my modelling skills are not to high. Thanks again!.
Thanks very helpful.
No problem! I'm glad
Probably a silly question but how do you know if an Eduard kit has the old or new decals? I have not built an Eduardo kit yet but have a couple in my stash.
Very good question! The telltale sign is if they have patchy/mottled cover film. It sort of shows it off in the video's intro - on the decal sheet, the cover varnish looks somewhat patchy. This is the new type 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips. The other alternative is use aftermarket decals, as what I do instead of these decals. I don't see the benefit of the film and to me it's just a downgrade.
How do you know which Eduard decals are “new” and applicable with this technique? Only Eduard? I can see picking at decals in this manner only to ruin the colour layer 😢
Eduard and HGW both do them - description has a guide on how to see if they're the new type 👍
Excellent 👍
Thanks :)
The big question - how do you know if you have the old or the new style decals.
@@1337flite the new style decals have a visible fillm that looks slightly marbled, you can see it easiest under direct light :)
So whats the purpose of this film compared with non film decals?
So that It can be easily removed, leaving only the colour behind to give a stencil like effect
Cinematic
thank you 😎
does anyone know if this works with tamiya mark fit strong?
What a massive pain to all do that ? Imagine if you've tens of decals to do no way replacement decals for sure
It's a difficult method, funnily enough I have an updated and much better video coming out on Sunday so that might be handy
great video matey.. as its been reported they are not perfect but do a job indeed
Thanks mate. Yeah, they are definitely not a 100% reliable feature, though as you say they serve a purpose for some people! 👍🏻
How do you know if they are normal or these ones . Got a kit but can’t establish what kind I have
Should have mentioned it in the video but forgot! There's an explanation in the video description :)
Eduard have a detailed guide to applying the new decals on pages 52-61 of Eduard Info from May 2021 (Issue 135). They state that "The new generation of Eduard decals has been developed since 2018. In all kits of all Eduard series, these decals have been standard since September 2019. Another type of decals is not used for Eduard kits after this date, the same applies to Eduard Decals sets."
I assume that Eduard created this kind of decal to protect the surface when applying and handling them. Any other reason? Do you think that this is superior to ordinary decals?
No i don't think so, because it's very easy to damage the printed colors. To me, best decals are by Cartograf or some of the aftermarket brands.
Wow!!
A Tuber removes the cover film with the tackiness of masking tape. What do you think?
Seems simple enough, bit of patience is essential.
Indeed, not too difficult with a bit of patience 👍🏻
Were this style of decal made by mistake, or design ? Information on removing the carrier film is no where to be seen on any kits, or the Eduard web site ( as far as I am aware ). It would seem that someone discovered it by picking away at it, & others have perfected the method i.e. using mineral spirits.
Originally by accident, though the cover film was modified at a point by Eduard to make it easier to remove - they don't openly promote it, as it's far from refined
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks - nice accident to make :)
Eduard have a detailed guide to applying the new decals on pages 52-61 of Eduard Info from May 2021 (Issue 135).
good vid! thanks --- but imagine doing it for all the stencils on a modern jet
Nightmare haha!
That seems a proper faff, why not use conventional decals
Is this on purpose by eduard or a side effect of their process
Kind of a bit of both, it began as a side effect though they later modified them to make it easier to pull off, so yeah a bit of both
As if applying decals wasn't delicate or time consuming enough, Eduard went and increased the work required to finish the model and the steps where something can go wrong.
Remind me not to buy a modern military jet from them where applying as many of the hundreds of decals as possible becomes an exercise in patience, now have to remove the carrier film as well.
Pretty sure some people just leave it on.
You can leave it on if you want, you don't have to remove it. You can also use white spirit to dissolve the cover film instead of peeling it off. Again though, if you don't want to do it, nobody is forcing you to
Why doesn't Eduard advertise these decals, at least in kit instructions, or on the kit boxing itself? It would be very helpful to all of us in the hobby.
Good question, and I believe it's to cover themselves from any negative response - as they're far from perfect when removing the film, Eduard would receive a bad rep if the specifically marketed them as removable cover film decals if you get what I mean
Why don't they allow more room between decals to give you more ckear film edging to get up and start peeling further away from the decal making less chance if damaging it with a scalpel
Wish I could tell you, but that's definitely something they should do!
thnks from ALGERIA
No problem :D
I'm an Eduard fan, but feel that these decals are a backwards step, very hit and miss on the results (had an absolute nightmare with the 1:72 Mig 21 Polish swordfish decals, one side was perfect, the other lifted in multiple places 🤬
Definitely seems like the general consensus!
I don't see the point of applying Mircosol over the decal film when you intend to remove it. Ive used these decals on an Eduard Spitfire and they worked great. Workflow was... Paint, sand/polish the paint (no gloss). Apply Microsol (not Microset) Apply decal, remove excess fluids and hammer decal into surface detail with a cotton bud. Leave for 24 hours and remove film, which come off very easily with no damage to markings.
Fair enough, another valid process :) never said the one I demonstrated was the only viable option
Japanese company MYK produce after-market decals that work in much the same way although I haven't tried using them yet. To be honest the added complexity - and risk of mucking up the model - have put me off the idea. Particularly as you get perfectly good results from applying regular decals over a gloss finish, treating with MicroSol and MicroSet and then finishing with a top coat of varnish.
Very reasonable points!
The beauty of Eduard decals is they work both ways. I think the peeling is a must for metal finishes only.
Thanks for the video. Will avoid these if possible. Seems like all the normal stages PLUS a bonus hair raising nail biting stage...? No thanks.
😯
Myyy gaddd what a nightmare :(
Except..eduard has stated many times that there decals are not this type.
yet they've printed a guide themselves on how to remove the film.
@@DarrellThompson47 Regarding the new decals - they can be recognized by having a production date on them - 23.06.2020 and forward.
Its true the coat can be removed once dried, but it requires some skills and experience. We do not suggest to our customers they should or need to do this. The decals can be worked with the same way as before- with the older once.
So using the method of removing the top layer is up to the customer - at their own risk."
I just don't see the point with this process. The regular wet slide decals suits me fine. The only thing I agree with is the microset and microsol. One mans medicine is another mans poison.
@@brucekellett2269 yeah I don't see the point in it either, it's just an educational video for people who are facing the new Eduard decals :) i have a newer video on this with an easier solution as well 👍
This wouldve been useful three weeks ago 😂
Damn! 😂
Sorry, but NO WAY would I go through that palaver. Just the thought of going through that process for all the tiny stencils on a modern aircraft gives me the screaming heebie-jeebies. See Peter Oxley's two videos of trying Eduard decals. I will never buy another Eduard kit again whilst they persist on these disastrous decals. I now have to find after-market replacement decals for the one Eduard kit I currently have in my stash.
I agree, the recommended technique is sub optimal. I have an updated video on the topic coming out tomorrow evening that showcases a much easier and effective way of dealing with them
@@ModellingWeekly I love that. "Sub-Optimal". That's like saying the Atlantic is "a bit damp"..... LOL. ;-)
@@1965GJS13 haha yeah, I often inject a bit of irony subconsciously into text here and there, It's the English in me...
Nice vid to look at these new decals, but for me , I am not sure the work is worth the money.
Just don't see the point of them.
Another silly thing from scale modellers. A light spray of any clear varnish would give the same effect.
Same sealing effect, for sure - I do that all the time! But the same smoothness, nope.
To me this is the worst idea Eduard ever had. Their decals weren't great already, but this? It's like they messed up and then tried to make it look like it was intentional...
Aftermarket decals are always the best option when it comes to Eduard kits.
Definitely a valid point of view, and I'd be inclined to agree! But it's there, so might as well have a crack at it once or twice
What an absolute gimmick.
Removing the carrier film is not necessary. Just use som varnish and it blends in! Modellers invent so much nonsense like preshading etc that makes no difference in the end!
In some cases the cover film does protrude and it does make a difference to remove it (I know this from experience) however if you wish to keep it on that is completely fine! It's your model after all. With respect to things like preshading, its again fine to not use these methods but don't knock other modellers for using them - they do work, and preshading especially can add a lot of dynamic range to a paint job if done correctly (see my recent 1/144 mig-17 as an example of where it really shows!)
...ииидеально,и маски не нужны...
Precisely!
deh kals not deeecal you aren't american and this is a British subject for crying out loud
There is no correct way to pronounce it :) but as we're being pedantic, here's the Cambridge dictionary saying that it's pronounced dee-cal: dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/decal
It's pronounced, Transfers! 😉
@@johnnoble01 water stickers haha