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$578 Hyper E-Ride Mountain 20mph 36v 250w Budget eBike from Walmart
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2021
- The Hyper E-Ride Mountain is the second bike from the E-Ride Ebike series. It is closely related to the E-Ride City, but features MTB styling and 26" wheels. The core components are identical to the E-Ride City ebike: 36v 250w rear hub motor, 36v 7.8 aH battery, front suspension and cadence sensor. It is amazing how quickly budget eBikes are improving. For under $600 this is the most affordable eMTB I have encountered, even though it is more mountain-style that actual trail bike.
See the original E-Ride City review: • Hyper E-Ride City Step...
Hyper E-Ride Mountain at Walmart: goto.walmart.com/c/2241907/56...
Hyper E-Ride City at Walmart: goto.walmart.com/c/2241907/56...
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This video is not sponsored. Hyper provided a bike to use for this review, but the content is mine and based on my experience with the product.
This bike looks like it would be a good prospect for a budget upgrade. Looks like a pretty fun bike!
Oh, and I personally like chartreuse!
Great review! I reviewed this bike last November when it was on sale for $398! Be careful with the chain falling off inboard towards the frame, because that happened on mine, and it cut the cadence sensor wire in half. I took it mountain biking and it was pretty terrifying. Roads and light trails only like you said.
The fork surely makes it more scary to go on. Swipe that and it'll be smooth to ride on. And swipe the derailuer for something better to remove the chain drops. Other then that it's nice. Buff and strong bike.
I have the same bike and fixed it having a local bike shop install a ProWheel 44t crankset. You can go up to a 46 tooth but might require notching the frame a bit.
The price of this ridiculous bike has almost doubled
Just got the same deal
Looking forward to this trail's review,Kev!
That tourney derailleur didn't disappoint: 5 chain drops 😜
I would love to see this as the next project bike, it feels like it has so much potential.
You can look at my channel then. I seem to be the only one currently doing a huge attempt at the Hyper E-ride mountain by transforming it into a Dual motored/dual battery beast. And i got a rear rack on it that can supposedly support up to 300pounds on the rack itself since it mounts in 3 places. Seat post, top rear frame, bottom frame near axles.
Currently it's a weight beast at about 100pounds with a 36volt 30ah lifepo4 battery beast sitting a cargo bag on the rack. Still rocking V-brakes and i can easily lock up the rear wheels with them.
250w hub motor? wouldn't get your hopes up to much.
@@LordHolley converting to dual 500s. Front hub and mid drive.
Ive had one of these for a little over a year. It is a decent ride for sure, but as stated, I would not take it on any challenging trails. I am 5'9" and this frame feel tiny to me, ultra compact feel. I have a little over 200 miles on it (I have other bikes I like riding more), and for the money it isnt a bad purchase. My Wife who is 5'4" likes the sizing and enjoys any seat time she has on it. I recommend changing out that fork for anything else. ANYTHING else, as well as changing the tires. If I thought I'd ride it more, I would definitely invest in a few upgrades, but I have other Ebikes as well as other more capable bikes that I like to ride more and prefer to spend the money on those.
The bike even though tiny. Has thicker gauge metal tubing then high end bikes do. That's why these are heavier, Because their smaller. So to have better strength. They have thicker tube gauge inside. While high end bikes are 'Bigger' in design. They apparently are thinner gauged metal tubing. So the bigger more pricy bikes are stiffer and lighter. But they aren't well in taking the pain in crashes. These being smaller and having thicker gauge metal means they can take more bash and thrash. It's the same concept that they went over when they changed out handlebars/stems from 25.4 to 31.8. The part where the handlebars get gripped by the stem, Is apparently Thinner on the 31.8 versions then they are with 25.4. But they both have the same ability. Just that 31.8 can be lighter due to the thinning of the gauge metal, from the wider grasp. But strength wise the 25.4 will easily withstand more ambuse then the 31.8's or even the newer 35 versions.
So this can do same as a high end bike and tones of older bikes have been doing that also with smaller frames, But since they were small their tube gauge were thicker designed. Even then the older bikes did also use chromo steel, while some others used High carbon steel.
But the thing is now. Most high end bikes and even cheap bikes now use basically the same metal of alum 6061-t6 alum. While some might use the stiffer 7075. But like Giant their using 6000series alum on their bikes, and other companies of higher end and they get praized. So why don't these that use the exact same alloy? Cause like you. People think because their small and cheap. The frame isn't gonna be the same in taking the amount of ambuse as higher end ones.
But that isn't true since BOTH pricey and cheap bikes use the exact same metals now. The difference is that one focus on weight saving and stiffness. While the other focus on thickness for ambuse taking, while also keeping it rigid.
I like to refer to that color as neon grellow.
Another surprisingly good ebike, but I prefer the styling of the city commuter. This is definitely a good platform for an upgrade project though!
Yup. As i told before since i was the first to start one on this mountain. I'm still working on it. Gonna be putting dual motors (Front hub/Mid-drive.) and dual batteries. (36volt systems, Internal for mid-drive, and external for front.). With cargo rack/bag/front frame bags. and hybrid road/off-road tires. Cruiser seat stance. Full night vision/night riding performance. And motor-cycle light braking/turning functions.
Still using the V-brakes with upgraded rear calipers and promax pads. Can easily lock the rear wheel up with them.
These would be something i would be willing to recommend in my bike shop for budget riders
"Moutain bike" style is 100% correct. It's a great rail-trail bike but definitely not up for anything rougher then that. Fantastic budget ebike!
With the stock fork and derailleur I would agree. However, an air fork and derailleur upgrade make it just as capable as any other worthy hard tail. Also discs are a must, I run MT200 hydraulic on mine. Check my latest vid, long term review of the 29er version of this bike 👍
Kev and amazing review the funny thing is this was my first e-bike purchase enjoyed it for two years then I upgraded to my av level
Would you advise me to buy this bike?
Great review for someone like myself looking for a commuter bike on paved, and dirt trails mostly flat. 👍🏼
Hi! How are you liking it? This bike is on sale for $400 and I'm needing a commuter bike! I ride 12mi one way and can chatge at work :>
Would love to hear back about your experience
Thank you so much for your video :) I just got the black and blue one.
My wife bought this bike this spring and she loves it. We ride mostly light trails and road and the bike has performed great so far. The only update I have done to it so far is add a suspension seatpost to it for her.
How tall is she? I'm looking for 5'1 and change
@@NotTrav She is 5'3''
Cool review....enjoyed it!
Good to see you finally nabbed this. I wonder though if you'll attempt a 2et buy to get the 29ner version.
It'll be interesting to see if you do, do some upgrades and take this on a downhill test ride.
Just picked this up yesterday. Got a cousin that has a few and he gifted me one. Thanks for insight. 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
are the chain drops bad?
Great video thank you for the honest review I can’t wait to get mine
Congrats on the new bike
Going to get one for my wife. Thanks for the review.
Excellent review! Subscribed
YesSiRr!! Very Nice Kev!! I like!! Lol! Looks cool and the colours not bad either. Thankz for sharing Mate.. alwayz Appreciated the reviews.. uR Awesome Bloke Mate Stay Bless and Stay Safe out there!!
Seems like a good casual riding bike, especially for those who want an e-bike to use around town and gravel roads.
It is a great bike for city and around town riding.
I love it.
@@acerkrt can you ride this bike after the battery dies?
@@goddaniel9478 yes Sir you can . It's a pretty light bike as far as Ebikes go . Half the rides I do on this bike is without the motor . I just get upto a good pace using the motor and shut the bike of and ride until I feel I need a boost and turn the bike back on and repeat. Also it's possible to buy a spare battery from the hyper website for 200 bucks and just get a cheap seat post bike rack and bungy it on so you can swap out and have a full battery on stand by.
@@acerkrt thanks for your help broski. So it’s not harder to pedal when the motor isn’t on?
Please turn this into a project with a better tyres, derailleur and budget fork. See if it can take propper trails.
That would actually be so cool,
I'm thinking 140mm sr suntour airfork
@@nonameuser9664 might be a bit overkill on that bike and feel weird when pedalling, 120 or 130mm would be more suitable i think 🤔, but yes, better tire (continetal trail king), airfork with rebond, and hydro disk brakes. Might be a pain to deal with the derailleur/gearing as it's a a freewheel, so hard to change anything probably.
edit : time for a pro rush derailleur and feewheel cassette of one of the schwinns ?!
Budget triple clamp fork 😉!
Also Sunrace makes a 10 speed freewheel for E bikes that converts it to a cassette - Sort of 😉. E Bike hubs are different, and the Sunrace kit makes it a very easy conversion.
Prices are up for bikes at Walmart...when they have them in stock. thanks for the review...
That real calliper mount is a nice opening for upgraded brakes once you change the front forks
Front CORKS, indeed! Perfect!
@@iBike2Live yes Corks 🤣🤣
Thanks for the info. Buying one now for work
Omg I just bought that same ebike yesterday. I love it
How is it holding up?
Nice video Kev! I saw a Hyper 700C Gravel road bike at Walmart the other day for $398 CAD. Had the SNAFU seat. Maybe I might see it ono e of your videos? 😁You videos taught me a lot about big box bikes! Thank you!
Edit: I’m flabbergasted with the speed on the trails though!
I think I all the prices are up I can't find it for 398
@@SeriouSXXFireworks Yeah, it’s the Canadian dollar.
The biggest promble I had with my hyper ebike was the constant chain drops. And it broke the Kaden sensor disc in peices rendering the bike useless. They need to move the cadence sensor on the other side away from the chain.
I'm sorry it has been years since I have ridden a bike, and never an E-bike. But if the chain falls off can't you just tighten it more? Or does it come off while changing gears? I got my drivers license late, and road a 10 speed. Thinking of the last time I dumped one, I'm not to sure about getting any bike now that I'm 60. I could use the exercise, and the fresh air.
@@lonelyp1 I ended up buying the other hyper 29 inch bike with only one sprocket on the crank. And the deralier could use a stiffer retention spring to keep the chain from comming off. My 27 inch hyper was a little bit faster. But at least the chain stays on most of the time with the plastic guide on top of the sprocket. And I only have to carry a backpack full of tools and interludes and a pump to keep it going. So yeah nothing is perfect. And it is time for me to order new breaks on Amazon and put new breaks on it.
I was hoping you would get the 29 version. I took delivery Christmas Eve of the 29 version and it has the same battery. I commute almost 11 miles and charge every day, I’m well into the 500 miles traveled. Great review
What is range and charge time for your bike sir?
How many miles until you have to charge it? & can you lift it onto a train
The chain drops are a deal breaker. You kept saying it's no big deal, but as you demonstrated, it dropped 9x in under 20 miles of a relatively easy trail. Will a more expensive bike resolve this? I'm curious if you have a recommendation.
I have a question I buy it two days ago but now you don’t feel the pushing electric motor
First mod would be mechanical disk brakes. Second would be a KT controller and display. Then a throttle.
Owned this bike for 6 months and put 1250 miles on it before selling for $380.00. The wheels were way out of true when I got it and the brakes were set too loose, but I bought a spoke wrench and did it myself. Learned how to adjust and replace the brake pads as well. Tires and brakes lasted about 500 miles, I live in a hilly area and weight 220lbs. A lighter rider would have a great time on this bike I believe. The chain drop would happen if I tried to downshift too quickly. Bike actually looks great even compared to much more expensive bikes. For the price, it’s quite good but you must learn about bike maintenance to enjoy it otherwise a good deal will go away from visits to the LBS
Thanks for sharing
Can it go up hills easy? And how hard do you have to pedal and how often?
@@bradyswank3936 depends on your weight mostly, but I’m 220 and could climb every hill, including 15 degrees incline. If you use highest assist level you might get 12 miles range. If lowest assist 25 miles is doable. You must peddle the whole time for peddle assist, there is no throttle. Also, at 1250 miles, the battery was losing capacity, maybe 10%. At $698 it’s not a good buy. It was on sales from December last year till about 2 weeks ago for $398.00.
@@victorkan7288 If you're using the bike just on the road (no off road bumps), would that eliminate/stop the chain from coming off?
Maybe split the difference and that color is neon lime? And thanks, Kev, for your look at this and it would helpful if you could do some rides at all assist rates on asphalt so we could know the actual/realistic range. And maybe also with the bald 1.25 road/commuter tires. And for sure get a cup holder for a Big Gulp to stay hydrated and cool. :)
I think we are all having the same thoughts, next project bike!!!! Really want to see how disc brakes will mount with that frame, as well as a budget air fork to get front disc brakes. Wider bars, better tires as well, I feel like this has a lot of potential to be a solid sub $1k eMTB!
I already did most of that. Though i'm staying with V-brakes. But i do have a rotor disc/caliper placed on my front wheel. Plan to do same on the back and mount a form of 'parking brake' system for the rear via the disc brake system.
I got a RST Omega 26inch V-brake/Disc brake fork coil. I had a Rockshox Recon TK silver 32 26inch forks before. but i kinda messed up cracking the crown when putting it on with a front hub motor. but the RST omega's fit prefectly with the hub motor without any real modifying to the axle drops. Alum handlebars i think about 680mm or 660 (Stocks i think are 600/620mm and steel). and schwinn nobs all terrian treads. using super thick inner tube slime.
If you stick with cable pull discs you can stick with the stock cutoff switches levers. but if you go hydrualic, Then you'd have to find a conversion ekit for the levers. And you'll have to rebleed the system due to you'll have to make the cables run inside the frame.
Quick question, can you change the bike gear after the battery die? or how much function of the bike left once its battery is dead? thx!
Yet another great review im amazed that 250 w entry level was enough my experience is a 350 w is entry level and forget the 250 w version thank you Kev always great reviews from you.
Well you would be correct.
250 is only sufficient for a woman or a very small man.
Do you plan on reviewing the new hyper electric mountain bike from target? I just bought one yesterday. Going on first ride today
i had this for about a week and returned it because the tire popped and the brakes were so bad. i pulled the wire and tightened the nuts on the brakes and they still were bad.
I believe that the color is correctly called 'chartreuse'. 😜
I rode this bike for its first ride, 9 miles on a city bike trail, and the assist worked well. After, I put the battery on a the charger, and when I went to ride for a second time, assist would not engage. There is no helpful troubleshooting tips out there that worked, feeling like a waste of money and time at this point.
Weather aside this would make bicycle commuting so much more accessible.👍
Nicely said glenpetter
Can you lower the seat on this model?
what should i do if i lost the key? Where can i get a new one??
Wow seems like a good city bike
5 chain drops in one ride out of the box? Sounds like limit adjustments
I am looking at a Retrospec Joe Rev BMX cruiser/fat bike from Best Buy and can't find any reviews out there. Any chance you'd review one? The Hyper Jet Fuel E-BMX from Wal Mart is very similar, but I am really not liking the 20 mile max range. The Retrospec has more than double the range. What do you think?
This is an excellent entry into e-bikes at an affordable "dip your toe in" price.
As a project e-bike it's pretty pointless. To get it anywhere near a proper trail bike you'd have to replace almost everything. That includes both bike parts and electronic & motor parts. I'm still hoping you do a project e-bike with a Bafang mid-drive. The Axum would make for a top notch trail worthy e-bike project. The Boundary or Al Comp would make for excellent budget e-bike builds. The Mongoose Dolomite ALX would be an awesome fat e-bike project (would require the more expensive BBSHD for the larger bottom bracket).
idk, even a decent budget fork probably makes it worlds better.
if someone wants a smaller motor and stealthyish bike for cheap, 400 leaves room to add a few parts, especially for those who already have spares.
How is the Cruiser version of this?
Can you turn it on and it just rides by it’s self or is it only assist
This bike is a monster, been riding it for a year, I hope they sell upgraded battery in the future.
This is great, does it malfunction when heavy use on off-road and how long batteries last?
I got the same bike
I got the same bike. We will see if it holds up.
Just put some 26er Panaracer GravelKings on there and now you have a bike for bad roads, xc smooth trails and comfortable on the road.
I got the 20, lied it for the first day !! But so depressed lost charger first day i got it, i have a bunch of other ebike chargers but no idea if i should try charging with one
The real question... are you going to upgrade it?
Where is the motor cut off switch? Our bike isn’t working
Aren't these closer to 281w because 36*7.8.
I just bought one tonight only its orange and black and it has a different frame style than this one. Also has disc brakes. Was only $598 CAD on sale.
I recently purchased this bike, can any of the owners of this bike tell me if this bike has like a button to increase the speed or do I need to pedal to make it work?, I've seen other ebikes online that you don't need to pedal as the motor works by the settings increase.
can u ride it in the rain? i got it n i just wanna know cause it rains alot here
I just bought this hike used and I was wondering how stupid would it be to ride in the rain/wet outside?
Hi, how many km can go by bettry with full charge.
It's a gravel bike in mountain bike clothing, which for it's price, is perfect for my use in my city, where most of the bike trails are gravel. It's still more capable than a road bike for sure.
5 chain drops in 9 miles dang.
Looks good and its a great price. Thanks for the great review looking forward to the follow up video. How long do the batteries last (cycles)? Can you get spare batteries for these bikes and how much are they?
You call walmart's support line, and they'll send you one. 200$ for a battery. And their supposedly using internal 18650cells. Which i believe would likely be the NMC versions that have a life span of 500cycles from full discharge to full charge.
but if you're tech savy you can easily remove the old 18650cells and replace them with new ones of you're own. And since their using a lower mah you'd might even beable to increase it from 7.8ah to 10.5ah if you slap it with some good 3400/3500mah cells.
@@KillerRaptorr Thank you:)
how long does the battery last
Nice look, and looks fun....
How wide tires can you put on this bike?
Can someone who’s actually owned and used this ebike answer my question:
Being that this is a pedal assist bike, in Low, medium and high mode, is the motor supposed to keep running until you stop peddling? Obviously after it’s been activated while you pedal.
Mine in Low and Medium mode will give me a good push upon peddling but after 3 seconds, the motor turns off but the control interface stays lit. Yes, on a full battery. on High mode, the motor continues running but sometimes it’ll turn off while at a decent speed, and then back in seconds later (I don’t know if it’s because it shuts off after a certain speed to protect the battery/motor from being overloaded)
Also: when I’m using Low or Medium mode, I’m in 3rd or 4th gear.
There are 2 reasons the motor will "drop out"
1. you've reached max rated speed (15mph)
2.You've given the brake lever a squeeze activating the motor kill switch (it took me a long time to realise I was doing this, and wondering why I was getting the motor cutting out so often. 🤔
Hope this helps.
Hmmmmm So if I bought a Walmart Electric mountain bike and just used it on a flat trail (the NCR in Baltimore Co, MD and the C & O Canal Trail) I would be okay?
Please please please change that stem I had the same stem on my bike and it broke when I jumped off a parking lot slab .
Interesting. Battery is still to small IMO and I wonder what cells are in there.
I got a 36v wheel kit and 12ah battery from Unit Power pack for $350 a few years ago and think that the battery is the week link in that setup. (It goes 26mph and will go over 20 miles if I take it easy on the throttle. This might be a good "donner" frame for those with better parts laying about but I would not buy one and spend $ to upgrade it because of the small proprietary battery.
It also factors down to hills and the power of the hub motor itself. Going higher can also put more juice required from the battery. Not just the voltage difference. So for 20miles of range and 20mph of power on a 7.8ah battery is apparently rather good. But if you're truly tech savy you can easily upgrade the internal cells from their lower mah to the high end mah of 3400/3500mah cells and pack it up to 10.5ah for the internal battery.
Would this be a good commute bike?
Nice bike. excellent review. As always.
I wonder if this bike work as a single speed. Might eliminate chain drops and reduce weight.
It's the derailuer that drops the chain due to crappy spring that tourny derailuers have.
But the stock rear wheel uses freewheel hubs. So you could easily unscrew the stock 6speed freewheel and slap a 1speeder on it without any modifying of the axle.
@@KillerRaptorr I know. Basically my comment was on how usable this bike will be as a single speed.
can a throttle be added ?
I think that a RockShox Judy (air) fork (~$170), decent hydraulic disk brakes, and a Microshift Advent (the 9 speed, not the Advent X 10 speed) group set would make this bike AWESoME to ride!! I bet it would shred, and you wouldn't have any of the issues you have right now (minus the slick tired)!
You'll have to replace the hub motor with a new one that has a DC/Cassette system. But most time when you do with this size of wheel mm (135). You can go from low of 1-5-6-7-8-9 to 10speed if you wanted to. Any higher and you need a thru-axle bike that ranges 142/145 to fit 11/12/13+ speeds.
I got a Microshift advent 8speed system on it. The advent deraileur can work on ether 8 or the 9speed shifters/cassette systems. So no need to find a 8speed advent since the 9speed works on ether.
These are really limited by not using a cassette. Finding a 9 speed freewheel with off road gearing is a unicorn. I have an NCM Prague and had thoights of doing this exact thing. Took the rear off once for a flat tire and lets just say never again if I can help it!
@@brianwalker9793 The rear wheel stock can only use 6speed. 7 would be pushing it due to the length it extends. But if you do swipe to a standard Non hub wheel. you can go up to 10speed cassette. I got one already on mine that's quick release system. Using a 8speed right now.
Just put a motor hub for the front or convert the rear wheel for mid-drive ride.
@@KillerRaptorr absolutely agree! Anything can be done to these bikes ... For a price and with effort and tools. I personally don't see the value of doung much to this particular bike as the most important parts - motor, battery, shifters and controller are just MEH. Upgrade them all and you might as well have bought a better bike to begin with. Plus not sure you can upgrade that battery. Probably worth putting an Altus on to get rid of chain drops and thats about it IMHO
@@brianwalker9793 I got a microshift advent derailuer on mine right now. I had a deore before. but i wanted the clutch and they didn't make 8-9speed clutch systems. So microshift was the best choice since their advent derailuer can use ether 8 speed cassette/shifters or 9speed, Without having to change it's derailuer.
The battery i think you 'could' upgrade it to maybe 10ah 36volt. because it's just 18650cells housed inside the shell, and their not using high mah cells. So if you used 3400/3500mah 18650cells instead you could increase that battery pack to 10.5ah. Just gotta pull out the old cells and resolder the new ones on. Keep the same BMS in etc, and you're good.
so you have to pedal for it to go faster?
Now that its 2024 I need to see this with Cues thrown on it and a decent fork
I have one but I enjoy it on a normal light use
Flawless review
Is there a concern that water would leak into the frame compartment for the battery?
I at first thought so to. But even if it does. The battery is raised in the middle, while the inside edges are lower. So the water would just drip down to the bikes cranks, Which has a hole open at the bottom for the motor cable to come out and the water would drip from there. So no it won't get water/effect the battery. But it's not suggested to ride into a blazing puddle and dunking the bike in it. It's water resistant, But not water proof that you can ride into a river.
Can you use the bike normally after the battery dies ?
Project-E new fork and disc brakes!
They have these clearance at my local walmart for 200 some dollars right now.
This is an interesting project base. Those rim brakes have GOT to go!
What's wrong with rim brakes? I'm using deore rim calipers on my rear with promax pads and i can lock the rear wheel up on my 100pound monster hyper e-ride mountain.
If for downhilling sure discs would be better. But for normal flat to slight hills. V-brakes work fine. And are silent.
@@KillerRaptorr great points great insights thank you
My question is can you ride it like a regular bike, and use the electric to clime hills? Or if you are just feeling lazy. Or is it basically impossible to peddle around even on the flat? I have thought about getting an E-bike for exercise but I'm 60 now and not willing to peddle my fat butt up hills. Especially hills I would have walked up when still a kid.
It is possible to ride it without assist, but eBikes are heavy, so that’s something to factor
@@KevCentral So peddling on the flat would give me more exercise than a regular non e-bike, and I shouldn't have to OVER DO to clime a hill. There is a bike shop down town. Maybe I will stop in and see if I can rent one, or take one for a test drive, before buying anything.
Hi it looks like the rear bolt on wheels have a rubber protector on the bolts now am i correct.
On the end parts of the bolts. Yes this is just so it doesn't scratch the bolts when the bike falls. And the other one where the motor wire comes out, Since the motor wire cable comes out along the axle bolt vs on the hub piece itself.
There not required. But if you wanna keep them on their fine.
I don’t think I’ve ever had an eBike that didn’t. Yes. There are rubber boots on the axel bolts
My 29er has a tapered tube, it had one of those adapter type races on bottom to work with the stock 1 1/8 fork. Wonder why they would change that??
I have a long term review posted a few days ago on my channel Great vid Kev!
Looking at the images it looks like the same headtube, which means it isn’t an actual tapered headtube or adaptable to have a tapered fork inside the actual headtube. Good sealed bearings though!
@@KevCentral Yea that's the odd thing LOL, My 29er is a 2019 model and has the same head tube that your full suspension E MTB review has. It also may be just a difference between the 29 and 26 frames?? My lower bearing cup is 56mm and upper is 44mm. It is a very reliable ride regardless, and I posted a long term review last week. Check it out on my channel when you have free time 👍
Would love a comparison. Or at least what this should be compared to. Love the effort! Keep it up!
HELP! I bought one of these hyper e-ride mountain bikes, but cannot figure out how to get it to work. Can someone please HELP?!?
What doesn’t work?
I'm 6ft 2 inches so what do we do if we want this bike? Weld more metal under the seat?
Sorry correction. The 29er will probably be better. 26inch is smaller. Unless you get a extension for the handlebar stem to rise it up and likely a extension post to lift the seat post up. But it'll look a bit bunky on the smaller wheels. So 29inch version would be better.
29 inch air fork on the front. Ultimullet. (Ultimate mullet) Disc brakes! And better tires. See how it goes! 😇😎😀
Ha!
You should review the 29er variant of this ebike I just ordered one, disc brakes on that one
Working on getting one. Thanks
It’s easy to get any budget disc brakes on the rear. To get disc brakes on front you’ll need new wheels and fork, it’s better not to get those adapters to make the fork disk brake capable, most are garbage and very fiddly. Note if you don’t upgrade to hydros then I’d recommend changing the cable housing to compressionless, it will improve braking and get rid of a lot of the mushiness. But it may be more cost effective to go hydro.
Totally agree it is a mtb Style bike, not a real mountain bike capable. It’s more a light trail bike or gravel bike with flat bars.
I got one for the wife to keep up with me on my gravel bike.
Well funny thing about how peoples point of view of 'Mountain bikes' is really off. Because now 90% of people do Downhill riding and not really 'Mountain biking'. So generally people idea of 'mountain biking' isn't the same anymore. So i'd say, Yes this is a 'mountain bike' But not a 'downhiller' as most people's views are looked at when thinking of 'mountain bikes'.
It'll do mountain riding well. But course for those harsh downhill hits that everyone looks at now, I'd say it'd need a lot of upgrading done for it to be near compatible for such thrash. But i wouldn't truly say it's not compatible, due to that fact the frame is made exactly same alum alloy of t6 6000 series metal as most higher end bikes are made of. Just that the smaller frame is made thicker gauge tubing then higher end bikes that are made wider, with thinner gauge system to get weight loss but same stiffness. But the smaller frame the hyper has is still rigid and strong as a high end would be.
It's same concept as people who don't know that 25.4 handlebars are built thicker where the stem clamps on, then on 31.8 that are thinner where the stem clamps. and even newer 35 bars are even thinner. But they have stiffness there, Just not as much strength of bash resistance as the smaller handlebars are. So crashes, The hyper can take better then a lighter/thinner/higher priced bike. Kinda why walmart bikes last pretty darn well under the amount of ambuse they get put on from being dropped, thrown around, jumped.
Yup this is true. Unfortunately there are a bunch of channels that trash this bike. I think it's a good bike for the price point when it's on sale. 80's mtb is basically a flatbar 650b gravel bike. Well kind of 26" wheels. As for me it was a cheap bike that allows my non biking wife to ride with me and have a good time. Cheap disc brakes and it was good to go.
Can the PAS sensor be moved over to the non-drive side of the bottom bracket?
Likely yes with the stock bottombracket. But the stock bottombracket is a half sealed system. So if you unscrew the left lock cap. Be aware, That you won't wanna mess with the bottombracket's screw in frame cup. Because the left side runs on bearing balls. While the right is sealed. That's why there is alittle nip sticking out on the left side. The little ring you unscrew is to keep that cup inplace because you cannot tighten the cup in the frame all the way or else your pedals won't spin correctly/freely.
This bike is sweet!
Planning to buy this ebike. But did you find any replacement for the battery
There is a number you call to get a replacement if it's defective of the stock. Or you wish to put 200$ for another cell. Though normally you can fork similar price for a true extra battery that will hang on the bike's frame or in a pannier bag on amazon for a 10ah or similar power.
Does it have a trigger throttle?
I have a lectric XP and a Hyper ERide and I like the Hyper better.
This bike runs really great and is sturdy and strong.
The only thing I can say is that in the back it should be a disc break because it has alot of power you will use alot of the breaks wearing the wire out alot.
For off roading yes likely a good upgrade to do. But if you keep it to mainly flat slow trails and roads. V-brakes will work more then fine. I upgraded my rear v-brake to deores for the caliper arms with promax 3-1pads. And i can lock the rear wheel. And this running on a 100pound for my Hyper E-ride. With a huge 21pound battery on the rack. So it's no light boy anymore.
@@KillerRaptorr I ride street with mine and find my brakes lose alot after the stop and goes due to so much Traffic and lights. I am in NYC so breaking is constant.
I have to constantly mess with the back break wire at the break on the handle bar and when I get it right enough to stop well the break pad rubs the tires.
I really like this bike but the break problem has had me in a few almost fatal encounters. I also have an extra battery from hyper strapped onto the bike to put in when the battery goes red
@@acerkrt The brake pads need to be slightly below the rim surface. And you need to angle it to bend with the curve.
The best way to adjust them, is undo the brake wire cable from attaching to both calipers. unscrew the pad just abit to get it wiggling and angling around. Push the rod with your thumb so the pad is pushing up to the rim of the wheel. Angle the pad enough to the rim just so you see the rim surface from the rubber of the tread. Angle with the wheel curve. Push slightly harder, Then tighten the bolt enough. Let the rod bend relax from your thumb, hold the pad, and tighten the pad down, Make sure to hold it firmly when tighten because it'll like to slightly tilt down when you tighten the pad bolt down. Then just do same on the other side. After that. put the wire back onto the both. press the brake handle, And unscrew/screw the tightening bolts on the edges of the brake caliper rods. Loose makes them swing easier, tighten makes them get pushed out. So when both are balanced in closing together with same timing. Then just tighten the screw nob on the handlebar abit to tighten the grouping together.
There's a video from shimano that mentions how to adjust V-brakes you can find if you want to.
This also makes them not squeak when their in full contact with the rim surface.
@@KillerRaptorr I wish I knew cause I am kind of hesitant to do it .lol bit I will try . I just ordered Kool stop pads . They are longer pads and I've heard good things about them on the hyper.
Sounds like it would work well on suburban bike paths
Can you please review the Hyper Radster 🙏
Does this bike come already assembled if ordered online??
You should be able to have it delivered to the local WM store for assembly