The Truth About My Traxxas ERevo 2.0
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
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get some hot racing limiting straps. I run 2 x 80 or 90 mm (I forget) straps, one for each rear corner, and loop them in half thru the metal chassis brace I added. I have yet to break any of the stock camber links or shock ends. you can find examples of how to mount them on the traxxas forums or youtube with a little searching. it keeps the rear end from completely unloading in the air, which is what breaks them.
I bought this new when it came out. I now the ins and outs of this thing. It’s bulletproof now after years of breaking and testing. You need to know something about this car, I’m your guy. Servos are thrown in in adjusted and fight each other from out of the box. You have to center them and adjust the arm so the sevos are in a relaxed position. I still I’ll jump houses with original servos from when 2.0 first came out lol. Suspension that’s a whole bother ball game. Lots of mods and inventive mods. Tank tank thank!!! Double standing backflips no more shocks popping out or axles popping out. Years of experimentation! One of my favs for sure now! Love your channel mark!!!!
What’s up man you have an Instagram I can dm you at and ask you some questions on the pushrods coming out and how you fixed it entirely
The servos are not bad it is just that they are fighting against each other so you need to adjust them right. Also to fix the shock rod ends you need to put limiting straps or a bump stop inside the shock.
I don't know man, I haven't had any of the issues at all. Of, course I bought the metal chassis brace and limit straps like everyone else on the internet with this truck. Like 20 bucks in upgrades and the car is fine. I love the erevo 2.0. Probably one of the most fun cars to drive if you take the time to look up the weak spots.
For someone who is buying the E revo 2.0, pretty much every big rc car youtuber who has one says that the servos go out really quickly. Its not that the servos are bad, its that since there are two or them, sometimes the alignment when you get it is not straight. When I first got my E revo 2.0, the servo were not lined up properly, but its is a really easy fix. After you line them up they work perfectly.
What line of work are you in? These hobbies get expensive quick. Hopefully RUclips is helping out. Keep up the good content.
Also the Revo platform came out almost 15 years ago, it was designed with racing in mind, hence the inboard suspension, and it was never meant to handle 6S power. The original E-Revo was a brushed setup that had a whopping top speed of 25mph if you were driving downhill with the wind behind you. And correct me if I'm wrong, but with the original 2.0 it came with plastic driveshafts, then Traxxas added metal driveshafts and increased the price by $50.
Aluminum shock ends + loctite fixes that, for rods bending get aluminum, for extra protection from shock ends use limiting straps
Your going to put all of the weight of the rear wheels on the shocks the shocks are what hold the suspension togueter and thats why the plastic rod end breaks there is a simple fix by limiting the travel of the rear suspension without putting all the load on the shocks instead the load goes into the limiting straps attached to the suspension. Might work for a while the alluminum rod ends but if you get into a serious crash you could completly destroy your shock and that is expensive to fix
Surchaufeur if I wouldn’t have caused enough stress to break or bend the stocks I would have broken them already. It’s held up just fine for the nasty landings it’s had
True
@@EXTREMERC416 what kind of jumps you making? Outsourced RC has excellent traxxas videos. Look for Erevo or 4x4 rustler. This guy goes over several Traxxas models, has excellent explanatory videos.
@@timsgta i dont use homemade ramps i use actual real hills and jump full speed thats how we put the rc to the real test imo
Like others have said suspension limiting straps are a must. I made custom adjustable ones so length can be set just right - Only seems necessary on the rear though. I also had suspension pivot balls ripping out out the wishbones so helicoiled them all and so far that worked. Steering servos out of the factory are not properly adjusted so they fight one another - I balanced mine straight away and have had no problems after 6 months bashing. Rear drive shafts would always pop out at the bmx track. It puzzled me how they managed to come out as there is no getting them back in without disassembly - must be some serious bending going on! Managed to shear a rear drive cup while popping a shaft out with a bad landing on the throttle (yeah driver error) so upgraded rear shafts to GPM and so far so good. Haven't broke a centre drive shaft yet but these are pretty cheap so I just Carry a spare, and probably good as a 'fuse' to preserve the diffs. Also just had the ESC die and replaced on warranty. To summarise the E-Revo 2.0 definitely has weak spots, but this thing is also an absolute weapon that with the right upgrades and adjustments can take a real beating!
Yup that’s the same reason why I just run one servo on revo. I think I’m enjoying the Maxx much more, the truck is a animal!!
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Even though I've heavily upgraded my Revo 3.3 im glad I haven't broke anything since all the upgrades.
Lol I was fooled for a sec , I thought you bought the limited body Erevo 2.0 , but I just noticed that the intro screenshot is black and white!! Good vid, Keep up the Great Work !! 👍✌️
I have the nitro variant Revo. I love that thing, but every problem the electric version has, I have, with one exception. The shock rod end. I've blown the servos, and the rod ends more times than I care to count. I replaced the servos with some aftermarket options and the tie rods I replaced with the upgraded 7075 aluminum rods. To date, I haven't pulled another rod end and the servos are working great. I've got a buddy who has the erevo 2.0 and he also likes it. Other than the few, not many but very annoying problems that you've had, they are great RCs. They are fast, nimble, and can take a pounding once you get the factory built in bugs worked out of it.
Heard this a number of times. So I got the kraton. Very happy.
Almost out the box my servo was gone, called up traxxas and they made it right within a day. So yeah very good with making it right.
I’m pretty sure they’ve fixed this rod end issue. I’ve had much worse crashes than that and never broke them. I did have a servo go out on mine, they shipped new ones out real fast and easy and then i replaced the servos with one ecopower 120t and she’s just a crazy powerful bastard.
3 to 6 major upgrade makes that car unbreakable:
Most important
1. 85mm limiting straps-mod to avoid ripped out shock ends
2. Alu centerbrace in the back
3. RPM body mounts-reinforcements to avoid ripped out body mounts
4. Pro-Line belted Badlands (gives tons of grip and do not explode no matter what abuse)
5. Steel center-driveshafts
6. E-Revo 1 True-Track-rear-suspension from RPM with modified knuckles to work with the 2.0
as an extra
7. GTR-Shocks from Traxxas
and
8. Max 6 ESC
9. Dual JX 36KG-Servos with the Max 6's BEC set to 7.4 Volts.
Absolutely hated the stock dual servo setup in the 6S E-Maxx I had back in 2009...besides that the truck was a beast!
But the dual servo setup almost drove me crazy...turned me off so much I sold the entire truck along with everything I had for it...
Since then I prayed, hoped, wished and dreamed that Traxxas would release a new E-Maxx with a single servo setup...haven't come to date...recently came back to the hobby after some 10 yrs and got the Revo 2.0 since I always secretly wanted one...went in with the mindset of converting it to a single servo setup right off the bat....ordered the 2255 at the same time...essentially doing what Traxxas should've done ages ago as its well known that the 2075's are junk...and dual servos in general are a pain the ass when they start fighting each other.
-
But yea, love my Revo! You do enough research on the Internet and you find out its weak spots and do the necessary fixes.
Upgraded Rear chassis brace, HR limiting straps, single servo setup and you're good to go! Just don't get unlucky and crash wrong....😌🤘🏾
Ehh I'm having the same problems with the arrma outcast 4s. The thing breaks every time I take it out almost. I had a few runs where everything went fine. But 3 out of 5 runs the thing broke something and I'm not sending it or jumping 10 foot ramps or anything. Just driving it around the house. I put rpm arms on it now and a new wing mount with some hot glue to help give it more support. But the thing was broke more than not for the first few weeks I owned it. Lost the drive pin when a wheel fell off and the wheel kept coming off until I realized what was going on and ordered the new drive pin. Cranked the wheel nuts down to much trying to prevent the wheels coming off and broke 3 out of the 4 aluminum wheel hex's and had to order more of those as well. Went and ordered more of the wheel nuts because they are proprietary and do not want to ever loose one and be screwed. Ordered extra drive pins in case I loose one again if the wheel comes off again. Been painful honestly. But now I have got the thing going and have some spares and got my newby mistakes out of the way the truck is a ton of fun. I have been just running 3s instead of the 4s in it because it is plenty of power in that thing. Oh I changed the servo saver in it as its weak as hell and the truck drove through corners like I had lost half my stearing with the saver being so weak. Gonna get a savox for it once the stock one dies because it is better but still a bit weak stearing wise. So all in all these ready to runs seem to all need some upgrades to get them to where you want them. Prolly gonna have to replace the shocks soon as well if the internet is anything to go by because they seem to leak from what everyone is saying. But mine have held up so far. The radio was replaced by my flysky fs-gt3b as soon as I got it because it's much better than the one that came with the truck. Gave it expo's and anti lock brakes but lost the avc it came with. But that's not a great loss for the better feel and computer radio controls. Hope you get some fun out of the erevo now that it's back up and running. It's a great truck it just has some problems just like my outcast. My 4x4 slash's have been tanks compared because of the design and how light they are. And my tlr 22 5.0 has held up well. But the outcast has had some bad luck I guess and brittle plastics compared to the rpm arms coupled with the weight of the big truggy and tires.
I parted with my 2.0. I absolutely love my gen 1 EREVO though. It’s lighter and performs much better. Diffs are garbage but with select upgrades it still gave me a more enjoyable driving experience
You need the limiting straps
Leaning toward getting one of these. On the ProTek RC 155T, are you running 1 or 2 of them in your e-revo 2.0?
Yeah I like the revo, and even almost bought one a few years ago, but nearly every review, they'd break the same parts as another youtuber, I ended up going with the Maxx and I'm happy with it. More my style of RC anyway. I had the 1/16 revo, it was fun, but I just lost interest in that one, not sure if it was because of the size or something else. I also hated the side battery trays, definitely wasn't good with many kinds of batteries.
Can the MAXX hill climb as well as the E revo? I’m not looking to do huge jumps, only natural terrain
I cannot agree enough , all you speak is the truth. It’s quite expensive honestly and things can go bad very quickly but it’s okay! Jus like every rc it needs upgrades to be built tough and it’s jus a matter of time until they are !!
I've literally NEVER had any of these issues with my original, Just freshen up your old original e revo brushless edition. And call it good. I had the 2.0 and sold it. Ive been running my original for years still going strong.
Mark I have a question, I have nitro revo can it be converted to electronic?
No this is NOT the fix the shock ends are what HOLDS THE DROP OF THE REAR WHEELS. No matter how much you remplace the rod ends of the shocks they are going to stretch or pull off each time there is a hit who pushes the wheel further down. The simple fix is the limiting straps from hot racing there is a lot of videos about this fix. And breaking because its a big truck is not really a reason in a crash yes but in a simple tumble thats called weak. I domt want to sound like a jerk but im telling you what is the truth. And traxxas will remplace your servo no matter what you tell them to what happened to the original one but when it comes to motor or electronics oof no man they bassicly gave me the middle finger because the warranty of 30days after pushase expired. I had electronic issues with other brands and they send me the remplacement motor or esc without making a mess about aending the whole car for 3-4 weeks before i get it back. And the warranty is over 1 year. The e revo is a great truck but needs the limiting strap mod and the chassi brace from traxxas to eliminate the shock end issue and the rear links thats another massive weak point but unfortunatly i dont have any answer to that. You have to start to see new stuff from differant brands i was like you and just wanted one brand and it just ate me alive you have to know there is sometimes better trucks than a traxxas truck for the same price or less
Bravo👎at least it doesn't have a chassis made from a pack of Twitters with a dollar store transmitter like some other cars we all know. I don't even have to say the name. But we all know. Its the one If you double your money upgrading you might have something then.
Cut a little bit of 3mm cable tie the length of the hole, fidaddle it to start treading and suddenly it's stuck but still can be unscrewed as normal.
You can fix the problem with a single 3-4mm cable tie. Works on all ruined holes in the plastic for RC,
But it would be best if you had some practical understanding, a hair-thin tie won't help you etc.
Hope someone finds that helpful, saving time and bogus fixes like ca glue on polypropylene etc.
??? Been running the erevo stock for over a year now. No problems.
What is the best car in your opinion?, you didn't elaborate much on that,
I had a mini e revo that kept blowing the front and rear diffs out. Let’s just say the only Traxxas I don’t like is a e revo. Sounds like the big ones have just as many problems. I really like the rest of the Traxxas lineup.
No problems here the 2.0 is awsome if you know what up.
Is the 2.0 and VXL the same thing?
The newer uprgaded servo has the red dot on the name plate or the older, bad one has?
I haven’t had the servo problem but I have had the links break every time out to where I carry extra one now I have two Erevo 2.0 me and my daughter use it’s definitely a weak link to the rc car thanks for sharing 🐢🐢👍👍🔥🔥
Do you have limiting straps? I'v haven't broke any. If i do i have stronger ones in a parts bag. They've been there for a year.
spike I don’t have limiting straps on mine it’s all stock 👍👍🔥🔥🔥
@@earlmoorhead5555 $20 brace and straps will save alot of your problems. Mine don't pull out.
You should get arrma kraton 6s if you don’t have it yet, I had the e revo 2.0 and I was having the same issues so I sold it and I got a Kraton and that was the best decision I’ve ever made
🤣
Buy the updated 7075 toe links problem solved! And limiter straps On the back,since I’ve done those two little mods trucks been super reliable
you've had some really bad luck with your ERevo 2.0. Ive been bashing mine like crazy and 0 problems so far.
Thanks for your insight and vids Mark! About the stock servos and the red dot on the newer version...While on chat with traxxas guy John, i asked him about the red dot, asked if these were upgraded or newer and he said the red dot means nothing. Maybe John dont know $#!+ though. Anyway, thanks again for everything. P.S. Do you plan on doin a Kraton Roller EXB review???
The 7075 rods from the revo and v1 e revo will fit and they have a standard aluminum code on them.. and they should be on your revo platinum. They are so worth it I have bash the crap out of it and they did give me any more issue..
Good luck with your e revo 2
LOL MY E REVO WILL BE HERE TUESDAY. BUT ITS ALREDY UPGRADED 😉. SMASHED!!!!!!!! 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
I dont understand how everyone breaks the Erevo mines been 100% bulletproof, I did add some bump stops internally in the shock to limit the travel and that probably helps.
That’s what I was thinking I’ve had mine since they came out and I run it hard , I finally stripped a rod end on the rear link as I hit a tree.
Same here, I’ve run my 2.0 hard since i got it. No limiting straps & NO failures whatsoever.
spend the 20 bucks put metal gears in em. i had the grey servo top on my summit they cracked first time out
the news body is so crazy good job bro ✌🏿🦅
Who else likes before they watch? 👍
Me lol
ervery time
I thought you were gunna say the central driveshaft because I run mine on 3s and constantly break it
Why none buys the titanium shock ends like I did to my Revo 3.3 25 years ago
Limiting strap help prevent the bottoms from coming out?
Yup the load is on the limiting straps and no more on the shocks
I super glue my ends as well it it took me awhile to figure out my driving style to breaking parts. An i use zip ties for now for limiting straps. It pulls the rod ends from when it flips an the arms are slammed the oppsite way. An from rebound on jumps.
Ronnie Williz aluminum shock rod ends + loctite, haven’t had one pull out since and I’m running duratrax six packs which are bigger and heavier than stock tires
The main issue is the load is all into the small shocks putting alluminum ends doesnt solve the issue of the load distribution its going to make your shock life at risk
Surchaufeur if it truly did then my shocks would have been toast a long time ago
Isk but it is not right to put all of the rear wheel and suspension weight on those poor F1 suspension shocks shocks are made to absorb impact and not to be pulled the other way
@@EXTREMERC416 why are you trying to tell us about the cars we own. We fixed the issues our cars HAD. Maybe you can't figure it out. Thats your problem not ours. Now you found something else that works for you. Be happy with your shit.
I love mine. Nobody need you trash stuff that works for them. I see you bad mouthing this car all the time. You're probably a shit rc mechanic 🖕you dick
MARK! Please try Arrma! Just once! KRETON TYPHON OUTCAST TALION any of them. I have a e-revo and I can’t push it like my KRETON ! Love my revo I just know the limits of what it can do😎
Idk man i converted my revo 3.3 to electric and i bash reallyyy hard and have broken some things but never an arm end
GET THE SOLID LINKS Kevin Talbot has a video on it
Traded mine they broke almost every run traded it for a slash 4x4
Hey Mark I know that this is off the subject of this video but I just put an order into RC superstore.com for my second RC ever “Traxxas Rustler VXL 4X4 “ was going to eventually get aftermarket parts and was wondering where to buy them at? I ordered the green bodied one so was gonna bye all green stuff or blue. Would really like to talk to you so please hit be up.
Well ussualy you can order what ever traxxas part you wnat from a traxxas dealer store
we need a traxxas store her in Oahu, Hawaii!!! NOW!!!
That's my dream RC car I might be getting "the little brother' of it the 1/16 scale version
I have the 1/16 version and it’s super fun and durable other than the servo
@@tannergobble7743 thanks
The bigger the rc truck the more likely it is to break but who cares. The thrill and exhilaration of sending these things are addicting. Plus Traxxas has parts availability for days everywhere. I have the erevo and I’m getting a kraton 4-s soon. Cmon Mark send some proper jumps. Find a good BMX jump park and send em!!
Outsourcedrc had a good video about the servos " not in sync " it made sense.
Mine where synced and i still jacked them. Stripped the gears lawn darting.
When I got my replacement servos I just sold them on ebay and bought cheap metal gear servos from amazon...
You got a lemon .never have a problem with my 3.3
which protek you running?
the 90mm limiting straps will help the shock ends from coming out...
☝🏻☝🏻
I have the 85mm.🍻
Even better
It's a nice looking car but everything brakes on the e revo also the center diff go out and I heard you can run off one good servo they go out because there both puting stress on each other great video mark next get the arma kraton hahaha
Arrma kraton looks like shit and everything breaks. Better stay with the e-revo.
And buy 200$ traxxas lipos because no lipo fix in the dam tray
@@EXTREMERC416 i don't have traxxas lipos. I don't have lipo problems. A little over $200 is 4 lipos. 🤦♂️
I did not say you had traxxas lipos is how the they designed the baterry trays pushes a lot of users to buy traxxas lipos because they are guaranted a direct fit traxxas lipos are expensive and can easily cost you 200$ for 2 3s lipos of traxxas. Heard a lot of horror stories about them but hey they are lipos theres going to be dumb people blowing the lipos up even if they are idiot proof with the ID system chargers. If you want to get better lipos you will have to again buy those weird long packs who might only work on the e revo. When someone buys a baterry he will want* to have the ability to put the lipo he bought on any rc car who is compatible with that voltage
*when i had my rustler 4x4 traxxas lipos for me were almost 100$ idk if it was my hobbyshop who tried to rob me or the price went down. But traxxas lipos are nit super powerful for the price you pay 25C is under what most manufacturers recommand running.
Hey mark I got a question?? My e revo 2.0 pretty new but out of nowhere moving forward and backwards starting to sound real squeaky and I’m super anal with my stuff lol so sounds like this are driving me threw the roof brother is there any advice you can give me would be much appreciated champ thanks 🙏
Angel Fuentes the squeaking is coming from the friction between the outdrives and the driveshafts. You can grease them and it will stop. My erevo does the same thing. Hope this helps!
Mark Santa Maria thanks a lot champ much appreciated
Why does the Erevo need 2 servos? Friggin Xmaxx works with 1!
Why are you always hating on The E Revo
hi how are you thanks for the good job i like your chain continues like that thank you very much
hey mark! do you know how to get 1/10 sized disc wheels for a traxxas rustler? coming from straya! :D
What is up with the Dragon Ball Z Hair do man ole man lol ! Yee boi get it
🔥
Yeah blowed 3 sets of servos before I started to only use one now lol
"Welcome back to Mark Santa Maria..." WHAT?!?
I called this on your previous video, it seems like a common occurrence
I love people that make videos about a product without researching the product first and then make stupid titles like this as if implying you and everyone else that had previous videos about the erevo were just lies and hype when in an all actuality this vehicle is no less faulty than any other RC on the market every RC on the market you have to buy upgraded parts to suit your play style. Whether its high speed or bashing, the Erevo is an Excellent rig and above average at the least!
Traxxas needs an 1/8th scale with fully independent suspension
Anything will break if you hit it with a big enough hammer. 😂😂
WHY I WILL NEVER EVER SELL MY (1.0 6S EREVO WITH FULL TSM SYSTEM!!!!
My dads did that the servos just quit on him
I like the 1st generation revo better mine still stock
Try a redcat Kaiju!!!🤠🤠🤠
Yes!!
That's why I never bought a Erevo, it's a money pit of broken parts, Traxxas community convinced me on that.
Far from a money pit. $20 fixes the main problem. Then just a servo problem which a lot of rtr cars have.
Mines a year old and its been around $100 of fixes. Not much for the frequent fligher miles it's earned.
Agh those rod ends are the worst.
Thanks for the info.......by the time i get a legit rc ill b a master lol
He's coughing......😷
Just wait till the servo goes out...plastic gears!
Just run aluminum ends
The inboard suspension is inherently a weak design, instead of the shocks taking the brunt of the force on landings, the rods take all the force then transfer it to the shocks. The dual servo design is also flawed, it does increase mechanical torque which is why Traxxas implemented it, but as soon as one servo is out of sync with the other, they're both going to burn out fast before you realize it. I also don't like the dual battery tray design, it limits what size batteries you can use, you'll always need to buy low profile average capacity packs.
This is why I bought a Kraton instead of an E-Revo, it's a conventional 1/8th truggy design, single servo, and you can fit as big of a battery as you want. It doesn't steer or handle as good as an E-Revo out of the box, but it's far more durable and you can upgrade the handling. I've crashed, cartwheeled, and had bad landings dozens of times with my Kraton and the only thing I've broken so far is the wing mount.
What broke tho
Cerco gomme
Yea man this car does nothing but break 🤦🏽♂️
COVID?
pokemon theme song
Never Drive RC high!!! Gonna break sooner than later guy.
We need daily uploads!!!
Buy an Arrma and you will not have these problems.
First comment
NRA LethalBoys I’m second
Got the rona bro?
sam smith
Dont buy overpriced junk... problem solved! Obvious...
Better reason to buy it now. Thanks.
I love the e revo look but the rear suspension is just weak one rear landing and your metal links explode
@@EXTREMERC416 I've done more than one bad rear landing with no problems. Sure eventually it will happen. Same with anything.
Check out outsourced rc I think he may have found a fix for the rod ends on the e-revo .