This is what is righteous about RUclips. Thank bro. Broke another rod end today. Came back and ordered these parts straight away. Pivot balls no problem in UK
Another option (alot more expensive) but I got the MIP CVD axles and 2 packs of the TRA8684 (need the 2 short shaft gears) to replaced the output shafts in the rear diff. Then got TRA5353X 17mm splined wheel hubs. Stronger axles (no more cup replacement) and fits right in the true track. Using stock pivot balls screwed all the way in with crazy camber until the ASC25566 I ordered from Visalia Hobby come in. Also found them at Hobby Wholesale and EBay UK.
I've already talked to RPM about this and they said there are no plans on manufacturing the trutrac for the 2.0. They said there wasn't enough of a demand for the trutrac on the original revo to justify a 2.0 version. Unfortunately we are stuck modding to fit the 2.0.
@@lcs816us Yeah, which is crazy... can't believe people didn't have this much of an issue in the v1 and nitro revo's. I know I ran truetrack on all 3 of my revos (2 nitro and v1 electric) just because of constantly breaking the carrier or the rod ends.
I can't that Associated pivot balls anywhere in Europe.....actually not even anywhere in the world. Are there other, longer ones that would work...maybe from Arrma or so?
Perfect video. Subscribed! I’m definitely gonna try this in my 2.0. Those rear push rods keeps breaking all the time. Eliminate them will be a pleasure.
Did you get the updated ones? I’ve heard really good things about them. Also the chassis brace and limiting straps are a must. Only 10$ each look it up on RUclips for a guide
@@jarrettmaltry6305 They aren't much better... I have those and the updated pushrods. The pushrods are fine (I made limiting cables that connect to the arms), but the tie rods on the rear still snap ends. Seems I break one end off every time I take the truck out.
Yeah how did that work out for you borg, Better off buying yourself a drill press and a drill press device and using that instead of guesstimating with Dremel that’s just too many F up variables
@continuecrushingrc please do an update after a few drive/bash sessions as to how this mod is holding up. It going to be a pretty expensive mod from what I can find 40$ for the true track and 20-40 for the pivot ball "can only find in Europe". Would really like to see how it's holding up. Thanks for the great content.
@@SebastianLong WOuld have to be some heavy duty (bulky) plastic that would allow some flex. The issue with the tierods for this part is there is zero flex. They either break the axle carrier, the ends or the rods themselves. One of those things that would have been nice if traxxas just made them fixed like true-track to eliminate the problem. The stock arms can flex some.
Maybe? Although RPM makes a lot for the e and t Maxx, not sure on which version you have though. This does the same thing, we had to “modify” this kit because rpm doesn’t (and won’t) make a true track for the revo 2.0. Rpm has a disclaimer for the the Remax that if you don’t have a certain version e/t-Maxx, you’ll have to swap some other parts too. “Tech Notes: This rear end kit works on all T-Maxx 2.5R, T-Maxx 3.3 & E-Maxx 16.8 versions. It can be adapted to work on earlier versions of the T/E-Maxx such as the T-Maxx 1.5, T-Maxx 2.5 & earlier E-Maxx versions simply by upgrading the axles & bulkheads to T-Maxx 3.3 versions. One kit will complete the entire rear end of your truck.” amzn.to/3OWYk87
Same issue here... I'm not finding these pivot balls anywhere... gee, I was already buying these pieces from RPM, they would be a great solution. if anyone gets an alternative please share it with us.
I’ve literally looked everywhere within the depth of the Interweb I am so ready to buy this equipment but I cannot find these pivot balls anywhere somebody anybody leave me in the right direction please I’m tired of these till links and have no worry about them they bend and break and pop off constantly
Did you figure out the reason why it was running tight I’m asking cause I finally finished building my erevo and it’s running tight and causing my motor and esc to run hot I’ve checked everything and can’t find anything...do you or anyone else have any suggestions
I find it very strange everyone has a problem with the rods on the rear of the E-Revo 2.0 I have had my E-Revo 2.0 since 2018 probably run 5,000 milliamp 3s through it 2 to 4 times a month I have never broken one single rod end and I do jump at 20 to 25 ft in the air do a backflips in front flips I swear on everything I have never had an issue with the rear rods they are starting to get worn out over time but I have never broke one never popped ones off the end of the rod I feel like the people that are having problems do not know how to set the suspension up properly I don't know what it is but I have never had an issue not one I have stripped out spur years I have worn out multiple sets of bearings I have broken the screws off the motor and had the motor bouncing around inside I have never had one issue with the rod ends
I have even ripped the rod ends off the shocks multiple times never had a problem with any turnbuckles but haven't ripped the rod ends off the shocks since putting limiter straps on never once have had a problem with any of the turnbuckles and I am not easy on my stuff it's very weird everyone has an issue with them turned off except for me
5:30 of course you'll feel resistance. What a teribble idea to use a dremel. It's impossible to mill it even on every side, so while you seat the inner bearing it's no more in the line with the outer one.
6:53 whoa, those holes between bearing and carriers... it won't last single ride. Please, just delete this video and prevent people from wasting their money.
This is what is righteous about RUclips. Thank bro. Broke another rod end today. Came back and ordered these parts straight away. Pivot balls no problem in UK
Another option (alot more expensive) but I got the MIP CVD axles and 2 packs of the TRA8684 (need the 2 short shaft gears) to replaced the output shafts in the rear diff. Then got TRA5353X 17mm splined wheel hubs. Stronger axles (no more cup replacement) and fits right in the true track. Using stock pivot balls screwed all the way in with crazy camber until the ASC25566 I ordered from Visalia Hobby come in. Also found them at Hobby Wholesale and EBay UK.
Rpm need to make this but already modded for the 2.0. But I gotta say this is pretty clever. Awesome vid!
Seriously. All we need is the bearing carrier machines out a little bit.
I've already talked to RPM about this and they said there are no plans on manufacturing the trutrac for the 2.0. They said there wasn't enough of a demand for the trutrac on the original revo to justify a 2.0 version. Unfortunately we are stuck modding to fit the 2.0.
@@lcs816us that's lame. They made a 2.0 for a reason, parts should follow
@@jcallesano they would have to modify the carrier for larger bearings.
@@lcs816us Yeah, which is crazy... can't believe people didn't have this much of an issue in the v1 and nitro revo's. I know I ran truetrack on all 3 of my revos (2 nitro and v1 electric) just because of constantly breaking the carrier or the rod ends.
If you have an e revo 2.0 it needs the chassis brace and limiting straps. They also sell better tie rods now for the updated version of the e revo
I have all that. And this still looks better tbh
I can't that Associated pivot balls anywhere in Europe.....actually not even anywhere in the world. Are there other, longer ones that would work...maybe from Arrma or so?
Any chance you have the specs on the pillow balls, Such as length by chance. The ae ones are unavailable. Thanks in advance, Great video!
Looking for a replacement for the AE ones currently did you ever figure it out?
Great Video man.. as a admin of Revo groups on Facebook I'll definitely be using this video for reference to the community
Great video! very clear and informative 👍🏻
Thanks!
I wish RPM would make a proper bolt on kit
Perfect video. Subscribed!
I’m definitely gonna try this in my 2.0.
Those rear push rods keeps breaking all the time.
Eliminate them will be a pleasure.
Did you get the updated ones? I’ve heard really good things about them. Also the chassis brace and limiting straps are a must. Only 10$ each look it up on RUclips for a guide
@@jarrettmaltry6305 They aren't much better... I have those and the updated pushrods. The pushrods are fine (I made limiting cables that connect to the arms), but the tie rods on the rear still snap ends. Seems I break one end off every time I take the truck out.
Yeah how did that work out for you borg, Better off buying yourself a drill press and a drill press device and using that instead of guesstimating with Dremel that’s just too many F up variables
My tmaxx 3.3 needs new toe links cuz Iv out the rpm arms have got rpm bulk heads aswell just the toe link that come with it are to long now
For the pivot ball what do I need to do now because now there discontinued and out of stock what's another choice????
Do you have found other pivot balls that fit?
any update on other pivot balls?
@continuecrushingrc please do an update after a few drive/bash sessions as to how this mod is holding up. It going to be a pretty expensive mod from what I can find 40$ for the true track and 20-40 for the pivot ball "can only find in Europe". Would really like to see how it's holding up. Thanks for the great content.
Will do!
@@continuecrushingrc3653 10 months later how is it
What about heating up the plastic with a heat gun or lighter and pressing the bearings in instead of drilling?
If Traxxas made the stock tie rods telescope with a stiff spring in the middle I bet they wouldn't have any issues with these rods bending.
How about a solid link like what's found on the 1/16th models of E-Revo, Slash, and Summit.
@@SebastianLong WOuld have to be some heavy duty (bulky) plastic that would allow some flex. The issue with the tierods for this part is there is zero flex. They either break the axle carrier, the ends or the rods themselves. One of those things that would have been nice if traxxas just made them fixed like true-track to eliminate the problem. The stock arms can flex some.
great job! do you think it's possible installing 120 rocker arms onto the e-revo 2.0? chhers
Same for the E maxx?
Maybe? Although RPM makes a lot for the e and t Maxx, not sure on which version you have though. This does the same thing, we had to “modify” this kit because rpm doesn’t (and won’t) make a true track for the revo 2.0.
Rpm has a disclaimer for the the Remax that if you don’t have a certain version e/t-Maxx, you’ll have to swap some other parts too.
“Tech Notes: This rear end kit works on all T-Maxx 2.5R, T-Maxx 3.3 & E-Maxx 16.8 versions. It can be adapted to work on earlier versions of the T/E-Maxx such as the T-Maxx 1.5, T-Maxx 2.5 & earlier E-Maxx versions simply by upgrading the axles & bulkheads to T-Maxx 3.3 versions. One kit will complete the entire rear end of your truck.”
amzn.to/3OWYk87
Are those pivot balls discontinued? Every link I’ve found leads to discontinued😫
Nick Schultz same here. There’s gotta be another set of balls out there that work.
@@markr9917 noooo :( this was my last hope for the car :( if anyone finds them please post link :)
Yeah I saw that someone apparently bought all of them. I'm trying to find an alternative now.
Maybe Arrma might have something that works. I know they use pivot balls on the Kraton and some other various models.
Same issue here...
I'm not finding these pivot balls anywhere... gee, I was already buying these pieces from RPM, they would be a great solution.
if anyone gets an alternative please share it with us.
Excellent video and tips! Subbed #377
Nice meeting you guys👍👍
I’ve literally looked everywhere within the depth of the Interweb I am so ready to buy this equipment but I cannot find these pivot balls anywhere somebody anybody leave me in the right direction please I’m tired of these till links and have no worry about them they bend and break and pop off constantly
So this part does fit on the erevo 2.0 or is it only for the first version?
It’s meant for the 1.0 revo, but this mod makes it work on the 2.0
When you use the stepped drill bit on the outside. Do you also drill away the little edge in the inside the bearing rest on?
No, you want to keep that there!
have they held up til now?
Seems like it’s running a lil tight
Yeah I still went back and trimmed a little more
Did you figure out the reason why it was running tight I’m asking cause I finally finished building my erevo and it’s running tight and causing my motor and esc to run hot I’ve checked everything and can’t find anything...do you or anyone else have any suggestions
@@wraithfpv9210, if you used dremel like him you already ruined it.
I find it very strange everyone has a problem with the rods on the rear of the E-Revo 2.0 I have had my E-Revo 2.0 since 2018 probably run 5,000 milliamp 3s through it 2 to 4 times a month I have never broken one single rod end and I do jump at 20 to 25 ft in the air do a backflips in front flips I swear on everything I have never had an issue with the rear rods they are starting to get worn out over time but I have never broke one never popped ones off the end of the rod I feel like the people that are having problems do not know how to set the suspension up properly I don't know what it is but I have never had an issue not one I have stripped out spur years I have worn out multiple sets of bearings I have broken the screws off the motor and had the motor bouncing around inside I have never had one issue with the rod ends
I have even ripped the rod ends off the shocks multiple times never had a problem with any turnbuckles but haven't ripped the rod ends off the shocks since putting limiter straps on never once have had a problem with any of the turnbuckles and I am not easy on my stuff it's very weird everyone has an issue with them turned off except for me
Hey what size step bit did you use for the smaller bearing?
5:30 of course you'll feel resistance. What a teribble idea to use a dremel. It's impossible to mill it even on every side, so while you seat the inner bearing it's no more in the line with the outer one.
6:53 whoa, those holes between bearing and carriers... it won't last single ride. Please, just delete this video and prevent people from wasting their money.
@@TheMrKarolus I did the same upgrade to my 2.0. Been beating the craps out of it for two months. Not one isssue!
@@TheMrKarolus lol yes Karin
You need to learn driving :D