1000 Ways To Stop a Board All About Plane Stops
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- Опубликовано: 22 дек 2021
- Reed Planes Stop: www.woodbywright.com/shop
Wooden stop: • How to Make a Planing ...
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Black Bear forge planing stop: blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07...
A planning stop or bench stop is an almost necessary shop tool. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes.
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I saw a cool idea in am old book (about 1900), describing how to make a planing stop for a temporary bench. They suggest just driving two screws into the bench, then adjusting them to the right height.
That’s actually the method im using right now.
note on dust, you can get these little telescopic bellows for camp fires that works really well for blowing sawdust out of holes without getting it in your face
Now we know the long term fate of your bench. Eventually it’s just going to be 100% plane stops all the way across. Full Stop
I got into woodworking several years back (specifically to build a better box than just nailing stuff together). I bought some used tools and sharpened them up and wanted to get going. Because my workbench is miles from pretty and had been used exclusively for mechanical repairs for decades, I simply sank in a few wood screws as planing stops. Eventually I made a few dog holes, but I used those wood screws for quite a while
Hey, what works, works.
As a former physics teacher I have to say I love your shirt
I love plane stops. Not as much as railroad stops but pretty close.
So far in my woodworking journey I've largely only clamped down a thin board at the end of my bench for a stop. I like how fast I can move the workpiece around. I'm totally going to get one of those Reed stops from your store though, they look great.
It's plane to see you've given this a lot of thought.
Oh stop!
The method with two bench dogs was what we learned in school. We did however use the tail vise so the wood was more to the left on the workbench.
My favorite is a bench stop (any kind) on one end, and a batten (doe's foot holding to opposite corner) held with a hold fast.
Same here. It's quick and fully customizable for whatever you're working with.
Much appreciated coverage of an overlooked but important feature of the bench. Gave me a lot of ideas. Another fine video from your library.
HUGE thanks for another year of excellent content creation. Keep up the great work!
Exceptional James. Simple explaining is the best.
Nice summary of plane stops, thanks for having done this!
I really love learning from your videos, very helpful! Merry Christmas to you and your family
8:56 Lee Valley made a replica of the Millers Falls Bench Hook no. 56 and it is excellent and versatile. Especially considering the collector prices of the Millers Falls bench stop, it's the best way to . . . wait a minute.
yes I wanted to get one but... it is linked in the video though!
Merry Christmas James to you, Sarah and the kids. Thanks for this video. I’ve used the thin strip with the dowels in the dog holes and just wooden dogs. But recently I made a paring hook and it has a low stop on it and it works, too as a planing stop. I’ve been experimenting with that lately.
This is very timely for me. I recently completed making my version of the Anarchist Workbench from Christopher Schwarz. I did not build the traditional blacksmith type plane stop in as those directions indicated but I always planned on putting something in once I had the bench built. I like the one you recently showed from Reed Planes and I'm really thinking that may be the version I go with. Great Information! Thanks!
Schwartz uses the toothed planing stop but also uses a bird mouth planing stop and a holdfast
Great video! Thinking "outside of the box" is always a good thing for personal growth wether it works or not. I have made a career out of doing that and am just getting into woodworking so that is great advice for me right now! Thanks!
Very clever James. As I believe you have said, a workbench is nothing more than a large jig/fixture designed to hold a piece of wood in different ways so we can work it. My thoughts are the more ways you can do that the better off you are. You just showed me one I don't have. Now I have an afternoon project. :-)
Great video James. I use ones similar to the Veritas flat plates but I 3D printed mine. Been fine so far.
Thanks James, now I know which planing stop I want mainly, it's the two dovels+thin board
I'm addicted to the Stanley Workmate, I have 5 including two of the original type, a toolbox, a craft swivel vise, and a bench top model that is a poor man's Moxon vise.
I use the Veritas stop. As others have mentioned, the two dog hole posts are adjustable to fit differently spaced dog holes. Easy to use. I like the bird mouth fixture and will be making one for edge planing on a low seated bench I use outside. Thanks for the ideas, James.
Fun to see all the ways to accomplish the same thing.
I started with planing stops, a dog for smaller stuff or a batten that went from a dog hole to the face vise for bigger parts....... they worked but I felt there was a "better way" for me. I got some work making small boxes and found I didnt have a good way to hold thin narrow parts to plow grooves. I got a screw for a shoulder vise and I made a wagon vise out of it and added it on the back of my bench, close to the edge so I can overhang the small parts so the fence on my plow doesnt interfere. Best thing I ever did!!! I use the wagon vise for ALL face work now, milling, grooves, rebates, smoothing........ if I have a wide board I need to cut to length, that even gets pinched between dogs on the wagon vise to cut it there instead of it vibrating in the face vise. I love how secure it is and how well it holds, id be lost without it, I dont think I could ever go back to planing stops after using the wagon vise :)
Cool vid. Stay safe.
The veritas wonder dogs are really useful. Use a dog hole as the basis for a horizontal bench clamp - or turn a long bit of wood with a stop at one end into an extra clamp.
Great review! I love plane stops! Thanks...
About to build (what I hope will be) my last workbench for (again, what I hope will be) my last shop. I'll have a leg vise on left front and a wagon vise on right near end. Dogs and plane stops. I use 'plane-plane' stops, blacksmith toothed stop and a Veritas screw stop. Will also have a crochet and sliding deadman on the back (Nicholson) side. Moral of this story: I'm retired, find them all useful at times and love to dink around with different approaches. Thanks for this.
Man after my own heart.
A big brass screw countersunk into the bench makes a simple, cheap and easy plane stop. The countersunk head helps prevent any rise.
Great video James.
I use an improvised bench, so I drilled holes for dowels to use as stops
Great video. Now ya got me wanting to try my vacuum clamp for hand planing. Not traditional but my table isn't really either. I tend to clamp a board across my table or I have a small table I attach to my work bench and it has slot for 2x4s that fit flush with the top and has a screw underneath to adjust the height of the stopper.
Good video!!! You can get from point a to b in different ways and the best way is the way that is comfortable to you!!! After the build of my English joinery bench( Rex Krueger version) I have discovered few ways to hold down the wood that I worked on like using hold fast, planer planer stop 😜, crochet and later addition leg voice ,using wedges, and dowel. This are all efficient, easy to make very low cost methods that making woodworking fun and simple!!!
I am building my first bench, that dual post thin one looks great to me.
love the 'dad' jokes (whole reason i subscribed actually) came for the jokes, stayed for the content
Simple works well for me... But it is fun having a few options to choose from.
Been looking at Nicholson bench design that don't have screw videos. Very interesting.
So much fun!
I had a offset square hole above the stretcher (front to back) in my bench. I had a block with a screw on the bottom that rested on the stretcher. I take the block out, turn the screw in/out and put it back in the hole. Dust, chips could fall out when I took the block out. I tried that Lee Valley thing, and tried the wooden block you hammer up/down with teeth on top. I didn't like them as well. I'm getting the Veritas replica of the miller falls for christmas so that's next. I really like the reed prototype you have too.
Great video. I currently use a single dog with a square head. It’s works for me about 90% of the time. I think I’ll build the thin board stop for wider boards as at a certain point they try to rotate away. I think I’ll also build a vice stop for those twisted boards that try to jump around as I’m getting one flat side.
Thanks for the video and that's an awesome shirt!😁
Great tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
You know, my workbench isn't big... And the table saw stays at one end, so it's going to be out feed table as well... So I need to plan very well what I'm going to add to it. 😬
Anyway, this gave me lots to think about! Thanks!!!
Happy holidays! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love it!
Loved your T-shirt
Cool thanks for the info!
Right now, I use the Rockler inline stop in the t-track for a plane stop. Once in a while I have to put a thin piece under what I am planing to raise the surface above the top of the stop.
thanks for the vid! i’ve got the benchcrafted on an old bench, but i prefer the nailed down 1/4” x 12” strip of oak at the front of my bench. it stops just as easy and doesn’t gunk up your work. now i’m just trying to figure out the best way to traverse boards. A doe’s foot worked great with the bench crafted because of its teeth, but it slips with the bar.
really like the T shirt!!
Damn I love your shirt! May the Force be with you !
I've been known to throw a couple screws into my outdoor bench leaving them 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the surface and there you go... a plane stop.
I may even take this a little further and strategically place some wood insert nuts in my bench to accommodate "pop up" screws for this purpose.
I've been using the clamp on a workmate and a board clamped to an old table as a planing stop.
nah, smash a 9" nail though the middle, solid! lol
I really like the one with the key. Makes me want wax my mustache like Salvador Dali
I need a work bench. Currently when I need to plane something I just hammer two nails a quarter inch proud of a 2x8 and use the nail heads as a stop.
I use 2 philips head screws, 1½ inches apart.
If I need to plane something wide I put a batten in front of them and clamp it at the back of the bench so the clamp's not in the way.
Recently seen a post someone used an old oscillator blade cut teeth in the metal closer to the base
0:30 nice camio of "Mattie"
Nice!!
6mm thick plywood scrap with 2 dowels works great for me :)
I’d love to learn more about some of the older designs
The Veritas thin strip double post stops come in 3 lengths. What is most important with their strip stops Is that the posts are sliding in a track and hence are infinitely adjustable so dog holes don’t have to be bang on in terms of spacing like they do for homemade ones.
You missed the very cheapest most basic stop. Of all people it is from Paul Sellers when he is showing you how to build an English Jointers bench. He sets up a tempory table using two saw hourses and a board (actually the underside of the table top that you are bulding. As for the stop. It is just a screw not screwed in all the way. Keep up the good work!
I am a converted power tool person. I am in the process of building a proper workbench. I have a too small, againt the wall, bench with a vise that served me well in my power tool days, but it is too small for any good sized board. For larget boards I work outside and use the original Black and Deker Workmate folding bench / vise. This vise table does a good job of holding a board while planning.
You the man
I have the bench dog style and I like it, but I use a lot of just pegs and wedges in various ways to hold things I’m planing. Many ideas of which I got from the Roman workbench builds that the ‘Unplugged Woodworker’ in Ireland does.
Clamps a speed square in leg vice and use it as a think plane stop. I have used it quite often for thin stuff, like making chopsticks.
Currently, I use a thin scrap piece attached to a dowel. I will upgrade to a Lost Art Press plane stop in the next couple months.
I actually have and like a variety. I don't like clamping between stops because with thin stock that can bow it slightly and mess me up.
I do have a tall wooden square stop that I use with chisels when I am paring wedges for tenons. I use a long one that does multiple dog holes for wide stock. I also use a standard circular dog for edge planing or really narrow planing.
James on stimulants. I LIKE IT! 😆😆 Can I try to copy the reed stop for personal use? Gotta find something to make with my metal lathe so I can sleep at night telling myself it was worth it instead of rolling around the bed with buyer’s remorse.
Oh, free plans! FREE PLANS, I LIIIKE IT
You can only use it for personal use if you have fun making it and share your solution!
That first demonstration is my only method. Lol
Poor sacrificial board, I dub thee: Beaker.
This.... is my biggest issue. My bench is not a typical woodworking bench, my dad made a 4' x 3' mobile bench, (on casters), because he had limited room in his area. It has a lot of sentimental value to me, and...I have a small shop, single car garage, that has to be wood shop, as well as auto shop, (another hobby), so the bench fits....but, the big problem is it only has a 3/4" plywood top, a nice heavy frame work, but no way to add dog holes....so I'm thinking about adding a T track, so I can use clamps... my dad was 6'2", so he built it tall for him, which has sucked, since I'm only 5'7"... my son found a caster system that actually lowered the bench, but still keeps it mobile...so planeing is now doable, if I can lock the wood down....
Great video, I appreciate you spreading your knowledge.... maybe your stop with the thin wood and dowels might work, going across and through the framework....
I would really like to hear your thoughts on using a planing stop for planing really really thin pieces of wood. Like ribs for lutes, which need to be 1.4mm - 1.5mm thick. The only way I can think of to do this is to clamp the end to a flat surface and plane away from the clamp with a block plane, but it's not perfect if you have areas of tear-out and need to plane in the other direction.
On the subject of stops, I made a simple jig that I can place on a bench hook which has two different sized 90° V shaped grooves and a stop at the end of each, for planing down various sized octagonal pegs from square stock.
Forward that thin I usually use double-sided tape and stick it down to the bench
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Now that's a really good idea, thanks!
Those holes in the side of the board creep me out so much every time they show up
Fun start when U nead plane raised panel inch thik, but on ends 1/4, wich rock in all direction. My way best for me are wedge clamping.
Like they say there's always more than one way to skin a cat. I personally like using a planing stop or a dog. My next bench will have a spot for the Lee Valley miller's falls replica stop. For normal milling work I just use a stop. It does make you learn how to properly use a plane, those who say other wise haven't mastered the plane yet. I find I get a huge feed back from planing against a dog/stop. I just use a bench dog most times, I have a batton that I use for wide stuff. For heavier milling I'll add a does foot, or possibly a long stop for going across the grain. But then there are those boards that have enough cup/twist to them that clamping them in my waggon vise is the best way to stop the rocking.
I find them all to be viable options, but in the end I generally use a dog and possibly a batton. Having the ability to flip boards to get them flat enough to mill is very handy. I'm constantly flipping my
Boards to work. Milling by hand completely takes skill and understanding of the best way to get there. But most of all having fun I the most important. But I'm the least in favor of vises, ironically I'm building a new bench that will have a leg and wagon vise on it. Those I'm adding as I don't really have a big space and having them will decrease my need for different appliances. However as of now I only have a wagon vice, and my moxon vise. So working with just hold fasts and does foot has worked just fine for me.
One question, how's the hovart vise holding up? I just got there leg vise kit and wagon vise kit. Looking forward to putting them into use. I noticed one a previous video that it wasn't closing tight and you had mentioned adjusting it, is that something I'll have to watch out for or was this just a fluke?
The hobarter is great. No problems at all. It is still my favorite leg vice.
For me the feed back is the most important part of planning against a stop and as you mentioned it teaches you to plane correctly.
How do you keep planing if there is a stop in the way😂? And would you trip the wright brothers with your stop?
I bought the bencrafted toothed planing stop and even made the block. I just can’t commit to cutting out a square hole in my 18th century Schwartz bench. I’ve gone as far as doing the layout but I just could not start cutting the square hole in my bench
The research for this one must have been excruciating. Didn't you get board? ;)
Loved seeing some of those interesting vintage stop designs. Do you ever come across anything like that at MWTCA meets?
Not as often, but from time to time.
Gizmotic -- having the properties or pertaining to a gizmo.
Do you know of any disadvantages of having the planing stop before the leg vice? Just asking because there’s one before and after and I’m just curious about which you prefer to use
Usually you want it as far down the bench as you can get. The closer it is to the end the longer the board you complain. I just have several of them in the bench so that I can demonstrate several different methods.
I need some stops i currently use a bench hook
I’m new to woodworking would you say that a stop is better than a vise or not cheers
What is not better than the other. They both have their pros and cons. When you're first getting started usually having a dog vice is much easier. A stop can work very well but sometimes it gets a bit annoying.
There must be 50 ways to plane your lumber.
I personally use the board with 2 pins that goes into 2 dog holes
I use a switch. It’s hard to use hand planes from a wheelchair but on small boards I use dogs.
Would pulling the plane toward yourself like the Japanese do work better in a wheelchair?
@@reedplanes728 I should try one and see. I'll order one and see. Any suggestions on what one.
@@billboy7390 I would try a plane you have and pull it toward you to see if the ergonomics work for you.
@@reedplanes728 Is there a Japanize pull plane you would recommend?
@@billboy7390 nothing to recommend,
It really depends on what your goals are
You forgot about the cheapest, fastest, and simplest stop ever: simply put a screw in the top of your workbench. Only recommended if you don't give a damn about the surface of your workbench looking nice.
First!!!
WOW my mom for the lightning win!
If a train stop is where the trains stop, then what is a plane stop?
And by the way, why is it called a plane when it so obviously is a three dimensional object?
What number is Sarah?
What is your preferred dog hole spacing?
I noticed yours seem to be pretty far apart, and I remember you saying something about wishing you'd done them differently in another video, but can't remember what spacing you said you wanted.
For dog holes along an end device line, I like them to be 3 in apart for the first three feet and then 6 in apart after that. That's what I currently have on this bench. But then I have a second row at the back of the bench and those are all 6 in apart. There's about 16 in between the front row and the back row.
Question- you call planing the edge of a board 'jointing' - even though the operation is the same as planing (and there is no joint involved- and every dictionary definition of joint, apart from a joint of meat, requires two parts). So, it you are 'jointing', and the amount you take off means the board becomes square, are you suddenly not 'jointing' any more? Or does it happen sooner? Or later? Love to know...
To "joint an edge" is to make it flat and tried so that it can be joined to another board to make a panel. In this case the joint is just a but joint. that is why a joiner plane or a powered jointer creates a flat and tried edge.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo not an answer to the question… So a power planer, which you probably call a 'jointer'- is it still a 'jointer' when you are planing a face? 2) If you turn a portable power planer upside down, does it become a jointer? At what angle does it transform? I am fascinated by the lack of logic involved with this strange naming.
a power planer is also called a thickness planer. a jointer is a powered tool some what like a planer but the rotating blade is on the bottom and you pass the work over it. where as a planer or A Thickness planer is a tool where you incent the wood and it presses the wood (usually up) in to the rotating cutter.
See Thickness planer: www.google.com/search?q=thickness+planer&rlz=1C1ASVA_enUS826US826&oq=Thickness+pl&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggAEAAYsQMYgAQyCggAEAAYsQMYgAQyBggBEEUYOTIHCAIQABiABDIHCAMQABiABDIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABDIHCAkQABiABKgCCLACAQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
See Joiner: www.google.com/search?q=jointer&sca_esv=2d68b74fb50c3936&sca_upv=1&rlz=1C1ASVA_enUS826US826&sxsrf=ADLYWIKzIPcEYAVoDwmnTBeV8uy7JERFSg%3A1720131068151&ei=_B2HZtf0CLP90PEP6uOR2AY&ved=0ahUKEwjX4qLKs46HAxWzPjQIHepxBGsQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=jointer&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiB2pvaW50ZXIyChAjGIAEGCcYigUyDRAAGIAEGLEDGBQYhwIyChAAGIAEGBQYhwIyChAAGIAEGEMYigUyChAAGIAEGEMYigUyBRAAGIAEMgoQABiABBhDGIoFMgoQABiABBhDGIoFMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgARIuBtQ2QlYnRRwAXgBkAEAmAGhAaABngSqAQMzLjK4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgagAr8EwgIKEAAYsAMY1gQYR8ICDRAAGIAEGLADGEMYigXCAg0QABiABBixAxhGGPkBwgILEC4YgAQYxwEYrwHCAgcQABiABBgKwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgsQABiABBixAxiDAcICJxAAGIAEGLEDGEYY-QEYlwUYjAUY3QQYRhj5ARj0Axj1Axj2A9gBAcICCBAuGIAEGLEDwgINEAAYgAQYsQMYQxiKBcICDhAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGMcBmAMAiAYBkAYKugYGCAEQARgTkgcDMy4zoAf6LQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
The thing that makes a power jointer is the fence that the board rides on. it will hold the board up on its edge and at 90 degrees to the cutting head, and the flat long bed on either side will keep the board edge flat. This gives you a flat and tried edge with reference to the face.
The terms Jointer, joiner, Joint, and join can be confusing as they can be nouns referring to tools and functions as well as verbs referring to the action of using the tool or creating the item. tool names are always fun!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Once again, does not address the question- have you ever been a politician?
It is common to call something by what it does (proper noun derived from verb)-
A washer washes
a dryer dries
a router routs
a cutter cuts
a sander sands
a morticer mortices
a sharpener sharpens
a scraper scrapes
a marker marks
...
If I said I had a wamberler, you could assume that I used it to wamble.
and, of course, a planer planes.
Does a jointer joint? Well, a biscuit jointer certainly does. And a domino jointer.
Should the name of a tool change, depending on which part of a workpiece it is being used on- or what angle it is being used at?
I would love to hear a cogent argument why that should be. Please, please, if you have one, give it to me.
That others use the term incorrectly also is not an argument. Note that I am not alone- the power tool in question is called a planer in the UK, if it also thicknesses it is called a planer thicknesser. The name does not change- the top is the planer and the tool beneath is the thicknesser. So, follows the rules of dozens of other proper names derived from the verb of its function. A hand planer and a bench planer do exactly the same task in the same way- so we give them the same name. We may be edge planeing or face planeing but the action is to plane.
The name of a router does not change if we are using the fence to shape the edge. Even if that shape is part of an actual joint.
Let us not forget that the majority of workpiece sides that are flattened will never be part of a joint. So it is twice removed from being an accurate name.
Can you answer the question?
I did answer the question in the first response. To plane the edge of a board flat and tried is a joint. It is called a butt joint or a panel joint. You do that to both boards then put the two jointed edges together.
Yes, it does require skill to plane on a single stop, but no matter how good you are at it, it’s more worry - you have to worry about two things: getting the workpiece planed, and keeping the workpiece in place. I’d rather just concentrate on the planing.
Ideally I like to have a board very lightly (to prevent cupping) clamped between the jaw of a front vice and a bench dog, in addition to a stop at the end. Unclamping it to check things is only a little flick. Planing on a single stop saves time? Please - you can’t be a hand tool woodworker if you don’t have half a second to secure a board.
If I didn’t have a workbench with holes in it, I’d put together some kind of L-shaped stop, like the one I’ve seen Mike Pekovich use in a video.
Overcomplicateing a simple benchdog....
yup. That is what most of woodworking is.
this is scam, there are not 1000 ways in this video. but thanks for the existing ones, they are super useful!
thanks for the feedback.
Like a rabbit speeded on weed; you'da been smoking sometin'? (OK, my apologies, but it was a bit hard to follow occasionally...)