How to Hand Plane Board Edges Square
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- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2023
- In this video, we'll show you how to hand plane a board square using a blade with and without a camber (Note: Best results are achieved without a camber). This is a beginner-friendly approach that is perfect for anyone looking to dress timber by hand!
If you're willing to learn to edge joint a board square, without any difficulties then this video is for you! We'll walk you through the process, step-by-step, and teach you how to plane a board square using basic hand tools. This is a great approach for beginners, and it's perfect for anyone who wants to dress their timber without the aid of power tools!
Hope you enjoy!!
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Relevant Links:
+ How to Square a Hand Plane Blade to the Sole - • How to Square a Hand P...
+ How to Edge Join 2 Boards Using 1 Clamp - Spring Joint - • How to Edge Join 2 Boa...
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All the tools and equipment listed i have personally used or have recommended a similar product. I also recommend new products similar to vintage tools i use as i cannot give a link to vintage tools. I may gain a small commission when you use my links (It costs you nothing), however, the links are still here to help everyone out with tools that will get the job done.
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Excellent & timely video. Thanks!
@@paulleary1775 thankyou
I don't have a dedicated scrub plane, but I do have an iron honed to be used as one, and I'm probably 95% hand tools now. Goof tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure, glad to hear you liked the video
I love this channel. It kind of just feels like your knowledgeable mate is teaching you useful stuff in his shed. And the info doesn't come as loud and fast as a lot of other channels, so it's just so relaxing to watch.
Thanks for your kind words and feedback. Glad you like the content
I kind of always thought that the camber was more useful for rough planing, and smoothing would best be done without camber. Jointing somewhere in the middle. Cool to see that it can be done anyway you like!
Yes, generally i only use a camber on a roughing plane. I have a straight bevel and just roll the corners of all my other plane blades to prevent 'plane tracks'. However there are lots of people that put a small camber on all their blades, so i just wanted to show both ways.
Great tip. Thanks for the reply!!
I've just started woodworking and I find these videos very helpful. Great work, keep it up.
Thanks, glad to hear these videos are helpful
Another hint that I have found useful in my case is try to keep elbow in to prevent going off in the first place..Sometimes I find myself bring my elbow in and out in a single stroke. At time its creates edges off at opposite angles from front to back. Also slow and steady stroke is better control.
Thanks for sharing your tips to help others out, much appreciated.
Thanks. since you are receptive to tips I will add another I like. When planing edges of narrow boards you must remove from vice because even small square is too big. However when planing the other side to size and square I will rest board on edge perpendicular against stop.The benefit being ate square edge is holding board in near perfect perpendicular plane and you can judge square off bench and board at same time. another benefit it is faster the removing from vise to check line and square. works good on narrower boards that wont tip, but if you feel tipping you know you are going out of square.@@AussieWoodshed
I started my hand plane addiction with, other than the scrub, a very mild camber. The difference between the methods is not that significant IMO. I find it satisfying to get boards square using hand planes, not a bad workout either. I enjoyed the video.
Thanks. I agree it's definitely satisfying squaring the boards with a hand plane. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for sharing , like the videos are very informative for me as a beginner 😊 , keep it up.
Thanks, glad to hear these videos are useful, thanks for the feedback
More edgy content. That piece of Jarrah demonstrated the technique well between planed and unplaned sections of the edge.
Definitely edgy, i chose that piece of Jarrah for that reason and I'm glad it showed up well.
Nice work dude. Thank you for sharing
My pleasure, glad you liked it
Good advice showing the two alternatives of plane set up. I also only use a camber on my scrub plane and a straight edge with slight turns (just enough to eliminate obvious tracking) on my other planes. I can see an advantage in having a slight camber on other planes but I prefer to avoid the slight hollow it creates.
Thanks Pete. I think everyone has their own process and if it works that's fine, there's no wrong way if the results are the same.
@@AussieWoodshed Another advantage of having straight edges with slightly rolled corners for most planes is they are quicker and easier to sharpen; no faffing to get a slight camber equalised from one corner to the other. A large camber on a scrub plane is much more pronounced and visible - and therefore easier to gauge by eye than a tiny camber. Finally, not always but frequently I like to use a guide these days because as I get older my eyesight (and therefore accuracy) when sharpening is not what it was 40-odd years ago. There's no shame in reverting back to guides when you need to!
@@PeteLewisWoodwork yes, it's definitely less faffing around and quicker to sharpen, which is why i started rolling the corners.
Just trying to figure out the use of the camber blade, does it mean the EDGES of the camber do not cut the wood? That the only part of a camber blade that takes a shaving is the middle section. Or, do the edges of a camber blade take less of a depth cut than the centre of a camber blade? Why have a camber blade at all if you can't get a full width cut? I'm confused.
Sorry for the late reply.
The whole purpose of a camber is to prevent the corners of the blade digging into the surface when hand planning the face of a board. The idea is a small curve is added to the blade meaning the corners don’t make contact with the board when in use meaning the curve is slightly more than the thickness of the shaving. When edge jointing you need to make sure the center of the blade is doing the cutting, and if squaring the high spot the center cuts the high spot but not the rest of the board due to this slight curve on the blade.
I don’t use cambers on anything other than a rough remove board. What I do it roll the corner of the blade so the rest of the blade stays flat (I have a video coming out hopefully next week showing this process). When using a blade without a camber the process is much easier for jointing the side of the board, and the offset of the sole of the plane is used when cutting the high point. This means you don’t have to worry about where the camber is on the blade. Traditionally cambers were hardly used except on rough removal planes from what I can find from my research. So you are correct on a dedicated jointer plane there is no need to worry about the corners digging in as this only really occurs on the faces of the board wider than your blade.
Really I see cambers as unnecessary unless on a rough removal plane such as a scrub or fore plane. They are talked about a lot of RUclips as some saving grace, but I believe they cause more confusion than they help.
If you have any more questions please ask.
What are your favourite Aussie woods?
The woods I've used the most are Tasmania Oak and Jarrah, which i guess makes them my favourite. They are both great looking timber.