Actually we veterans are thanking very much dear Paul Seller for giving life to all traditional great carpentry basics for the sake of new generation to learn. If new genaration young carpenter fallows these valuble proceduers his/her carpentry will be absolutely interested. Many tks again dear Paul.
I just converted my No3 which struggled as a smoothing plane into a scrub plane, i set up the blade and the throat as per your email. I'm really annoyed with myself that i didn't do it earlier, much earlier. Its the best plane i have in the shed. Thanks Paul
Paul is the best. I’ve been using a scrub plane for a few months now, and I wish I had seen this video first. So many little tips to making the process more enjoyable.
I recently bought a plane on eBay. I wondered why the mouth seemed so very open and the blade curved. I couldn't get smooth cuts to joint an edge. Now I understand what the previous user did and will use it as it was intended. Thanks Paul.
I love that I learn something new from you in every single video. Also, that you explain things in detail. ALL of your information is extremely valuable to me. Thank you for all you do and share :-D
Exactly. I got a scrub plane like 2 months ago and it’s my first plane to reach for in 8 of 10 times. Thanks for showing uncommon usages! I appreciate. You are just great.
I made a scrub plane out of an old Stanley Handyman following Paul's instructions. It works like a charm and I use it ALL THE TIME. Thanks for opening my eyes, as always, Paul!
These videos really help me a lot. Maybe simple to some people who forgot how hard it was in the beginning, but I am a beginner, and you save me hours of learning something wrong, then having to relearn it right. Thanks.
video comes at a right time, was thinking of converting my second no4 to scrub plane and now it makes more sense. Have to thank you and some others on youtube,without you i will never started woodworking as power tools scare me. Hand tool woodworking is awesome and i'm enjoying learning it.
This method of planning wide boards leaves a really nice finish, I have just finished planing 35 Sq Mts of Oak floor bards with my Stanley 4 1/2 that I modified to a scrub plane, and now it is now it looks like it has been there 200 years, so much better looking than bland smooth machined finish. Chris B.
Paul, you are a great craftsman and even a greater teacher! Someday I would like a tour (even if it s only pictures) of your lifelong pursuits of woodworking projects. Really would be interesting.
Solid gold at 2:37 (and 6:37) for my purposes. As I've yet to set up a proper scrub plane, I've often left remnants of the sawyers' work in order to give "rustic" and "hand-made" feel and appearance to my projects. Now I know a better way. Thanks again Paul!
I’ve just made a scrub plane....no bench grinder, elbow grease and course sandpaper. It’s BRILLAINT‼️ So quick on rough wood. Great fun and a workout too‼️👍🏻😆 Thanks again Paul.
Great video Paul... I have been a joiner for about 25 years now and adapted a stanley No3 to a scrub plane many many years ago... As you said they are great for all kinds of jobs and I found that I more often grab it than any of the other planes... I also found that it is a great way to teach someone to use a plane when using a scrub plane...somehow the fact that it makes nice shavings easily gets them hooked on using it...
Great workout Paul. You are also demonstrating Runners World training tip #6- the "Talk Test". Training at a pace that you can converse with a running partner is a good measure of the level of intensity needed for aerobic running, i.e. not dipping into the anerobic reserves ( perhaps as in swinging an axe). Here on the east coast USA I get your emails abt 6 AM and watch them sometimes drinking Tea instead of coffee :)
Just got an old scrub plane similar to a stanley no 40 cheap in an antique shop. Ive been using it when i start on rough stock but never considered it for doing chamffers and textures. Thanks for the tips!
I love my scrub plane, a unavoidable compagnon of my #4. They are together on the shelf in front of the vise. I use an old wooden one with an heavy tapered blade. An easy way to get into wooden planes.
It was Paul and video they make that got me getting my first chisel some time ago. I'm just sold, didn't like woodworking as kid at all. First thing I actually made was a plane for that chisel. I thought that while I could just buy all the stuff, I try to make them by myself. I mean people have done it before and it's not like my payment is coming from my woodworking. Anyway, I'm half done with my second plane, which is full sized, the blade is from old bulky kitchen knife. It amazes o me how much we have "useless" stuff lying around that can have a second life as something useful (and more expensive, such as plane).
I modified a new production kobolt no4 plane to a scrub plane after watching your video on how to convert regular planes into scrub planes and it gets more use than the two number 6s I have combined. I really hope people watch this and get into using one, it's so frustrating to see people trying to flatten a table with low angle finishing planes
Many thanks for your diligence and effort over many years to educate us. Indeed we hand tool aspirants live in a blessed time to have your patience, insight, and wisdom available. Not from experience, but instead from watching and thinking, it seems that the "coarser" tools like the scrub plane might be more useful, or perhaps should *get more use*, than the "finer" tools like the finishing plane that usually monopolize the spotlight. Whether it's learning to sharpen across a set of stones of progressively finer grit, or learning to mill with handplanes of progressively finer set, one of the lessons I'm learning is to use the coarsest tool first and continue with it until I have the basic shape - a flat chisel back or a board of the desired thickness - then the next coarsest tool, etc, until only finishing with the finest tool. So "finest" doesn't mean best, it just means last. And as you show us here, sometimes that coarsest tool is the only tool we really need.
Here in Australia a bench plane modified that way is generally called a "grubbing" plane, distinct from a true factory made "scrub" plane.All the best.
I love my scrub plane. Sharpening the blade and getting the rounded edges on the blade is a bit tricky for me to get even on both sides so far but I'm not sure a scrub planes purpose is to be a perfect either.
After having a look at the Stanley plane I bought 20 years ago, it may be possible its a scrub plane. Its always taken a lot off and has a wider mouth than my No 5, thanks for the insight!
That's what I did. over time in my woodworking, I bought a few better planes. I turned my original Stanley plane that I didn't use anymore into a scrub plane with filing open the mouth, getting a Hock blade and putting a curve on it. now I love using it.
I might be wrong on this but I think the original No 4 are all regular planes, the scrub plane is a modification made post factory by individuals to make it a faster cutting tool.
@@Blasthoff Yes, Stanley does make one, there is a #40 scrub plane for sale on a site I go to, I didn't know what a scrub plane was, so I searched scrub plane and found this video. It's $95, about 100 years old.
Sellers is my absolute favourite woodworking teacher. But 30seconds thru my dewalt 735 and ive got flat surfaces, just dont have time to do this with a young family and limited shop time. #retirementgoals
And good luck to you but some of us don't have those tools or prefer to use hand tools. If woodworking is only about making the end product (which is perfectly fine) then do whatever is quickest. If you have the time and you want to enjoy the journey and not just the destination, use a scrub plane.
Some woods can be very hard on your tools. I have cut a 40 mm thick block of tropical azobe wood with a rip saw to end up with two planks of 18 mm. I took me hours to complete. Azobe is nearly impossible to plane by hand, it is very dense and extremely hard. The rough twirly grain makes it almost impossible to plane by hand.
Pretty sure this is the best scrub plane video I have seen thus far. . . . . . Does the length of the plane matter when building or choosing one modify/convert ?????
I find that a light scrub plane is a good scrub plane, so I would say shorter is better. The reason a light plane is better as a scrub plane is because it takes less effort to get it moving, so you can work faster and longer.
I now realise I’ve been using a scrub plane for years, with the mouth wide open and the cap iron set too far back and the blade protruding too much. Another great video. I learn somethings with every video, even though I’ve been at it for decades. Does anyone know why and when any plane should be held at an angle instead of inline with the wood. How does it work?
Jim Bo Not sure of I'll be able to articulate the mechanics of it as well as someone else might; but it can reduce tear out and splintering at the end of the piece of wood(especially when planing across the grain) by creating more of a "slicing" action when angled. For instance, when he's creating the chamfer in the video. When planing with the grain(smoothing a board for instance) a slight skew when planing can again reduce tear out, and also reduce resistance to an extent.
It can sometimes help prevent tear out if you skew the plane in favor of the grain. This can also make it slightly easier to push the plane, since you are effectively lowering the angle of the blade, but you are also effectively widening the mouth and moving the cap iron away form the cutting edge, which may some times increase tear out. If one thing does not work, try the other.
Skewing the plane actually reduces the angle of the tip of the blade to the wood so it "slices" better as said above making pushing the plane easier in some grains. With using a plane often, you begin to unconsciously notice this and do this. Well, why not do this all the time then? - because skewing the plane also effectively shortens your plane so you may not be creating as flat of a surface.
Now I know why my Dad only had one plane ( that his parents bought for him when he began his joinery apprenticeship in 1944) but lots of blades! Wish I had it now,but my brother has it.
So if I've got a smoothing plane with an adjustable mouth a good approximation for a scrub plane is to widen the mouth, set the chip breaker further back, and use a blade with a fairly aggressive camber?
Yes. I am just getting going with woodworking at the ripe old age of 62... (overipe, really!) and bought a Stanley 4 in good condition from eBay. Then saw another one in slightly worse condition going cheaply so I bought that also, with the intention of converting to a scrub plane. Depending on the condition of the blade in the second one, if it's not great, would you recommend i buy a new blade specifically for scrub planing? Given that i don't have a grinding wheel. If so would you recommend any particular blade make/type in particular?
Certainly not necessary to buy another blade as the existing blade will work just fine, either way you still have to reshape the blade. Whether you do it by hand on diamond plates, or find somebody with a grinding wheel is the only choice remaining.
Or find a friend/mentor who has a grinder. It will only take a short session to put the profile on the iron and surely someone would be willing to help. The honing could then be done on stones or diamond .
I’ve just bought a veritas scrub plane and was wondering if I really needed it. Glad I bought it after watching this. Do they work well on soft wood boards? I need to flatten some
Hi, I'm translating this video into my native language. Could someone explain to me what this phrase means: cups and divots? Paul Sellers used this phrase here 1:24 .
Maciej Moczydlowski : I hope you can translate this OK, "cups" are concave depressions in the surface of the wood caused by either tear out, or differential shrinking, the "divots" are chunks of grain that have ripped out during sawing, leaving surface holes or pits. Hope this helps.
A "cup" is a curvature across the grain. If you look at the end of the board it looks like a cup. I assume a "divot" is where there was tear-out. Cup is a product of the grain structure and drying.
I m currently in the middle of setting up my own shop and starting to build furniture out of my garage. My question is would it be better to sell the items on my own or go with consignment?
Can the scrub also be used to hog-out a contoured chair or stool seat? Or would say a 113 be a better option? Would it be possible to set up a 113 as a scrub?
A round-bottom spokeshave probably would work better on the seat. A chairmaker's scorp would probably be the best tool for roughing out the seat. A rounded cabinet scraper could be used to smooth out the gouges from the scorp.
I have a 113. It is really only suitable as a smoothing plane IMHO. Also it only makes quite large radii. It might be used on the convex surfaces of a chair, but I don't see it being useful on the concave surfaces. a scrub plane however would be excellent for hogging out the convex surfaces, so would a spoke shave. For the rest use the tools Richard Freeze described.
For just two planes I would start with a No. 4, and then either a No. 5 or an other No. 4. Set one No. 4 up as a smoother, and set the second one up for coarser work, more like what was shown in this video. A No. 6 or a No. 7 can be nice for jointing long pieces for glue ups, but I find that you I end up going back and making fine adjustments with my No. 4 anyways, so they are not essential. If you find that you can handle a plane that is harder to push, the No. 5 1/2 and No. 4 1/2 are nice to have, or if you want something lighter go with a No. 3 or No. 5 1/4. Hope that was useful.
How would a Stanley Bailey No 4 compare to a wooddriver brand $150 they sell today at Woodcraft ? from some review it appears to have too wide tolerances and that you have to spend more to get a fully satisfactory No 4, i guess that means $300 which is crazy.
Thanks Paul.. I've never won anything in my life ever.. Nothing will change with this either.. I hope the books & router go to someone who will use them.. Always love your content, Knowledge about old planes etc. Cup of Tea anyone? Gary/Hk
Paul, how do you feel about the use of wooden jack planes with a scrub grind? I have a jack which was already ground to a radius, and I stuck with it. I tend not to use it for facing panels, but often use it for reducing their width.
Paul Sellers Paul, if I follow your other video and make a scrub blade for my Stanley #4 (just got it used on ebay) and widen the mouth, would I still be able to use it as a smoothing plane with its original a straight cut blade? Excellent video and demonstration Thank You! At 67, I get winded faster than you do.
Absolutely. There is more written on the frog aspect of the plane than any other part and yet my research has shown that 99% of people never move it once they establish what they want.
Paul Sellers Paul, came across this and thought you might find it very interesting! Excellent Video about “Influence of the Cap-iron on Hand Plane”” on Vimeo: vimeo.com/158558759?ref=em-sha
Would it be a good idea to turn a no. 5 plane into a scrub plane or wouldn't that work as well as a no. 4? (I happen to have a no. 5 plane which needs restoration anyway)
Who said that ? If it's in the budget, check into wheel kits that allow raising and lowering of the bench when you need it stable or moveable. Most woodworking supply stores (or online ones) will have them available. Some are even removable and you can buy extra brackets for other heavy tools that can use the same set of wheels (one tool at a time of course).
Something I learned quickly about wood planing is that the quality of the planing tool fall on second plane when you haven´t a good, strong, dependable and flat workbench, is the most important tool in deed (even it if hasn´t a vise).
I agree with mister Pindonga here, having a strong and hard workbench is key to planing in one stroke, as one should always strive to do. And if that doesn't work, just ask here and Pindonga will provide haha
I got a record 405 multi plane in box for free and a lot of Stanley hand planes for free as well but the record 405 multi plane looks like it hardly been used but the only problem is that it doesn’t have the blades with it dose anybody know where I could get them and is it a good plane thanks
Nathan Richardson it is a very very good plane and can be used for many many jobs you can find plane blades for your plane on eBay as long as they are by the maker of the plane ie a Stanley no 50 plane blades will fit
the most impressive thing about this video was him freehanding those lines with the pencil
Actually we veterans are thanking very much dear Paul Seller for giving life to all traditional great carpentry basics for the sake of new generation to learn. If new genaration young carpenter fallows these valuble proceduers his/her carpentry will be absolutely interested. Many tks again dear Paul.
This guy should have well over a million subscribers. He is a master teacher!
Your Video where you converted a 78 Stanley into a scrubplane was so valuable for me
I just converted my No3 which struggled as a smoothing plane into a scrub plane, i set up the blade and the throat as per your email. I'm really annoyed with myself that i didn't do it earlier, much earlier. Its the best plane i have in the shed.
Thanks Paul
Paul is the best. I’ve been using a scrub plane for a few months now, and I wish I had seen this video first. So many little tips to making the process more enjoyable.
I recently bought a plane on eBay. I wondered why the mouth seemed so very open and the blade curved. I couldn't get smooth cuts to joint an edge. Now I understand what the previous user did and will use it as it was intended. Thanks Paul.
I love that I learn something new from you in every single video. Also, that you explain things in detail. ALL of your information is extremely valuable to me. Thank you for all you do and share :-D
Exactly. I got a scrub plane like 2 months ago and it’s my first plane to reach for in 8 of 10 times. Thanks for showing uncommon usages! I appreciate. You are just great.
I made a scrub plane out of an old Stanley Handyman following Paul's instructions. It works like a charm and I use it ALL THE TIME. Thanks for opening my eyes, as always, Paul!
These videos really help me a lot. Maybe simple to some people who forgot how hard it was in the beginning, but I am a beginner, and you save me hours of learning something wrong, then having to relearn it right. Thanks.
video comes at a right time, was thinking of converting my second no4 to scrub plane and now it makes more sense. Have to thank you and some others on youtube,without you i will never started woodworking as power tools scare me. Hand tool woodworking is awesome and i'm enjoying learning it.
Mr. Sellers! You are always merciful Teacher! Thank you!
This method of planning wide boards leaves a really nice finish, I have just finished planing 35 Sq Mts of Oak floor bards with my Stanley 4 1/2 that I modified to a scrub plane, and now it is now it looks like it has been there 200 years, so much better looking than bland smooth machined finish. Chris B.
It depends on how you set up the scrub plane. Some can be for a rough finish and others can be for a finer finish. It is all the eye of the craftsman.
@@bighands69how does one even set it for a finer finish?
Paul, you are a great craftsman and even a greater teacher! Someday I would like a tour (even if it s only pictures) of your lifelong pursuits of woodworking projects. Really would be interesting.
Solid gold at 2:37 (and 6:37) for my purposes. As I've yet to set up a proper scrub plane, I've often left remnants of the sawyers' work in order to give "rustic" and "hand-made" feel and appearance to my projects. Now I know a better way. Thanks again Paul!
That was 9 minutes of useful information, delivered beautifully and efficiently. Thank you.
I’ve just made a scrub plane....no bench grinder, elbow grease and course sandpaper. It’s BRILLAINT‼️ So quick on rough wood. Great fun and a workout too‼️👍🏻😆 Thanks again Paul.
Great video Paul... I have been a joiner for about 25 years now and adapted a stanley No3 to a scrub plane many many years ago... As you said they are great for all kinds of jobs and I found that I more often grab it than any of the other planes... I also found that it is a great way to teach someone to use a plane when using a scrub plane...somehow the fact that it makes nice shavings easily gets them hooked on using it...
Great workout Paul. You are also demonstrating Runners World training tip #6- the "Talk Test". Training at a pace that you can converse with a running partner is a good measure of the level of intensity needed for aerobic running, i.e. not dipping into the anerobic reserves ( perhaps as in swinging an axe). Here on the east coast USA I get your emails abt 6 AM and watch them sometimes drinking Tea instead of coffee :)
Glorious :) I never get tired of using a well tuned plane.
Excellent Paul - you make is so easy, simple to understand, with flair, finesse and of course artistic
Just got an old scrub plane similar to a stanley no 40 cheap in an antique shop. Ive been using it when i start on rough stock but never considered it for doing chamffers and textures. Thanks for the tips!
I love my scrub plane, a unavoidable compagnon of my #4. They are together on the shelf in front of the vise.
I use an old wooden one with an heavy tapered blade. An easy way to get into wooden planes.
It was Paul and video they make that got me getting my first chisel some time ago. I'm just sold, didn't like woodworking as kid at all.
First thing I actually made was a plane for that chisel. I thought that while I could just buy all the stuff, I try to make them by myself. I mean people have done it before and it's not like my payment is coming from my woodworking. Anyway, I'm half done with my second plane, which is full sized, the blade is from old bulky kitchen knife. It amazes o me how much we have "useless" stuff lying around that can have a second life as something useful (and more expensive, such as plane).
Always a good day when I see Paul and crew have a new video posted🍀
I modified a new production kobolt no4 plane to a scrub plane after watching your video on how to convert regular planes into scrub planes and it gets more use than the two number 6s I have combined.
I really hope people watch this and get into using one, it's so frustrating to see people trying to flatten a table with low angle finishing planes
Many thanks for your diligence and effort over many years to educate us. Indeed we hand tool aspirants live in a blessed time to have your patience, insight, and wisdom available.
Not from experience, but instead from watching and thinking, it seems that the "coarser" tools like the scrub plane might be more useful, or perhaps should *get more use*, than the "finer" tools like the finishing plane that usually monopolize the spotlight. Whether it's learning to sharpen across a set of stones of progressively finer grit, or learning to mill with handplanes of progressively finer set, one of the lessons I'm learning is to use the coarsest tool first and continue with it until I have the basic shape - a flat chisel back or a board of the desired thickness - then the next coarsest tool, etc, until only finishing with the finest tool. So "finest" doesn't mean best, it just means last.
And as you show us here, sometimes that coarsest tool is the only tool we really need.
Thanks Paul!! That's a brilliant idea. It'll make prepping rough stock easier and very handy for other uses.
Thank you Paul. I hope more people subscribe to this channel.
Here in Australia a bench plane modified that way is generally called a "grubbing" plane, distinct from a true factory made "scrub" plane.All the best.
Great advice in thinning a Board. Always learning from you !
It even sounds wonderful! Okay, I'm sold...
Great video! Paul, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Love your passion, Paul! Thanks!
Great info. Gotta start using a scrub. Thanks loads!!
In about a week, I'll be using a scrub plane to flatten my new work bench top! :)
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You are a treasure.
One might think Paul is getting out of breath, but no - he's just plane excited... :)
🤮
Another practical tip well demonstrated; thanks.
Thanks Paul. You're an inspiration!
Always a pleasure!
I love my scrub plane. Sharpening the blade and getting the rounded edges on the blade is a bit tricky for me to get even on both sides so far but I'm not sure a scrub planes purpose is to be a perfect either.
After having a look at the Stanley plane I bought 20 years ago, it may be possible its a scrub plane. Its always taken a lot off and has a wider mouth than my No 5, thanks for the insight!
That's what I did. over time in my woodworking, I bought a few better planes. I turned my original Stanley plane that I didn't use anymore into a scrub plane with filing open the mouth, getting a Hock blade and putting a curve on it. now I love using it.
I might be wrong on this but I think the original No 4 are all regular planes, the scrub plane is a modification made post factory by individuals to make it a faster cutting tool.
@@goognamgoognw6637 Acutually Stanley did make a scrub plane, it's a #40.
@@Blasthoff Yes, Stanley does make one, there is a #40 scrub plane for sale on a site I go to, I didn't know what a scrub plane was, so I searched scrub plane and found this video. It's $95, about 100 years old.
Thnk you sir from 🇮🇳India
Fascinating as always 👍
Thanks for another very informative video.
I have an old Acorn plane that used to be my dads set up as a scrub plane ,it’s my most used plane
Sellers is my absolute favourite woodworking teacher.
But 30seconds thru my dewalt 735 and ive got flat surfaces, just dont have time to do this with a young family and limited shop time.
#retirementgoals
And good luck to you but some of us don't have those tools or prefer to use hand tools. If woodworking is only about making the end product (which is perfectly fine) then do whatever is quickest. If you have the time and you want to enjoy the journey and not just the destination, use a scrub plane.
These days, the scrubby is my go-to plane for must jobs that don't require a fine finish.
Thank you Paul, very helpful
Some woods can be very hard on your tools. I have cut a 40 mm thick block of tropical azobe wood with a rip saw to end up with two planks of 18 mm. I took me hours to complete. Azobe is nearly impossible to plane by hand, it is very dense and extremely hard. The rough twirly grain makes it almost impossible to plane by hand.
Then find a wood that you can use easier. Make certain types of wood for certain tasks.
brilliant teaching as always, thank you :)
Thank you for sharing this video and your patience for newbies.
Such a great video.
Good morning Master Sellers :-D Now ... on to the video. :-D
Love & prayers
Great video. Thank you.
Pretty sure this is the best scrub plane video I have seen thus far. . . . . . Does the length of the plane matter when building or choosing one modify/convert ?????
I find that a light scrub plane is a good scrub plane, so I would say shorter is better. The reason a light plane is better as a scrub plane is because it takes less effort to get it moving, so you can work faster and longer.
I now realise I’ve been using a scrub plane for years, with the mouth wide open and the cap iron set too far back and the blade protruding too much. Another great video. I learn somethings with every video, even though I’ve been at it for decades.
Does anyone know why and when any plane should be held at an angle instead of inline with the wood. How does it work?
Jim Bo Not sure of I'll be able to articulate the mechanics of it as well as someone else might; but it can reduce tear out and splintering at the end of the piece of wood(especially when planing across the grain) by creating more of a "slicing" action when angled. For instance, when he's creating the chamfer in the video. When planing with the grain(smoothing a board for instance) a slight skew when planing can again reduce tear out, and also reduce resistance to an extent.
It can sometimes help prevent tear out if you skew the plane in favor of the grain. This can also make it slightly easier to push the plane, since you are effectively lowering the angle of the blade, but you are also effectively widening the mouth and moving the cap iron away form the cutting edge, which may some times increase tear out. If one thing does not work, try the other.
Skewing the plane actually reduces the angle of the tip of the blade to the wood so it "slices" better as said above making pushing the plane easier in some grains. With using a plane often, you begin to unconsciously notice this and do this. Well, why not do this all the time then? - because skewing the plane also effectively shortens your plane so you may not be creating as flat of a surface.
Thanks Paul.
Now I know why my Dad only had one plane ( that his parents bought for him when he began his joinery apprenticeship in 1944) but lots of blades! Wish I had it now,but my brother has it.
Buy your own and start your own collection.
Merci ! Thank You !
So if I've got a smoothing plane with an adjustable mouth a good approximation for a scrub plane is to widen the mouth, set the chip breaker further back, and use a blade with a fairly aggressive camber?
Exactly.
Thanks for the confirmation!
You are great!
Do we think a 4-sized or 5-sized would be better as a scrub plane?
I made a "scrub" plane from a cheap plane from Harbor Freight. It works, but not like that. Thanks Paul.
Paul sellers where do you get all your tools
I luv my PS scrub!
شكرأآ استاذ
Yes. I am just getting going with woodworking at the ripe old age of 62... (overipe, really!) and bought a Stanley 4 in good condition from eBay. Then saw another one in slightly worse condition going cheaply so I bought that also, with the intention of converting to a scrub plane. Depending on the condition of the blade in the second one, if it's not great, would you recommend i buy a new blade specifically for scrub planing? Given that i don't have a grinding wheel. If so would you recommend any particular blade make/type in particular?
Certainly not necessary to buy another blade as the existing blade will work just fine, either way you still have to reshape the blade. Whether you do it by hand on diamond plates, or find somebody with a grinding wheel is the only choice remaining.
Or find a friend/mentor who has a grinder. It will only take a short session to put the profile on the iron and surely someone would be willing to help. The honing could then be done on stones or diamond .
However, if you are looking at aftermarket plane blades for this or other planes, look up Hock blades.
I’ve just bought a veritas scrub plane and was wondering if I really needed it. Glad I bought it after watching this. Do they work well on soft wood boards? I need to flatten some
Yes, they do.
Hi, I'm translating this video into my native language. Could someone explain to me what this phrase means: cups and divots? Paul Sellers used this phrase here 1:24 .
Maciej Moczydlowski : I hope you can translate this OK, "cups" are concave depressions in the surface of the wood caused by either tear out, or differential shrinking, the "divots" are chunks of grain that have ripped out during sawing, leaving surface holes or pits. Hope this helps.
thank you
Cups and divots are indentations. Cups being larger. Hope that helps.
Maciej Moczydłowski,
He's talking about the low spots left after the sawing process.
A "cup" is a curvature across the grain. If you look at the end of the board it looks like a cup. I assume a "divot" is where there was tear-out. Cup is a product of the grain structure and drying.
I m currently in the middle of setting up my own shop and starting to build furniture out of my garage. My question is would it be better to sell the items on my own or go with consignment?
Consignment is usually a bad idea because they often take such huge percentages. Perhaps try Etsy instead, the online marketing for crafts people.
Can the scrub also be used to hog-out a contoured chair or stool seat? Or would say a 113 be a better option? Would it be possible to set up a 113 as a scrub?
A round-bottom spokeshave probably would work better on the seat. A chairmaker's scorp would probably be the best tool for roughing out the seat. A rounded cabinet scraper could be used to smooth out the gouges from the scorp.
I have a 113. It is really only suitable as a smoothing plane IMHO. Also it only makes quite large radii. It might be used on the convex surfaces of a chair, but I don't see it being useful on the concave surfaces. a scrub plane however would be excellent for hogging out the convex surfaces, so would a spoke shave. For the rest use the tools Richard Freeze described.
neistridlar thanks guys
Can u please give us your recommendation for starter planes? What 2-5 most recommended sizes would you start with?
paulsellers.com/tag/buying-good-tools-cheap/?orderby=&order=asc - on the second page of blog posts he talks about the planes he uses.
For just two planes I would start with a No. 4, and then either a No. 5 or an other No. 4. Set one No. 4 up as a smoother, and set the second one up for coarser work, more like what was shown in this video. A No. 6 or a No. 7 can be nice for jointing long pieces for glue ups, but I find that you I end up going back and making fine adjustments with my No. 4 anyways, so they are not essential. If you find that you can handle a plane that is harder to push, the No. 5 1/2 and No. 4 1/2 are nice to have, or if you want something lighter go with a No. 3 or No. 5 1/4. Hope that was useful.
the longer planes are called 'varlope' historically.
You can't go far wrong with a Stanley Bailey No. 4.
How would a Stanley Bailey No 4 compare to a wooddriver brand $150 they sell today at Woodcraft ? from some review it appears to have too wide tolerances and that you have to spend more to get a fully satisfactory No 4, i guess that means $300 which is crazy.
Been thinking about converting a keen kutter kk 4 1/2 to a scrub plane but not sure if its good to convert such a big plane, what are your thoughts?
I think that it’s much too wide. The narrower the plane, the better. A #4 or #3 will work fine.
Thanks Paul.. I've never won anything in my life ever.. Nothing will change with this either.. I hope the books & router go to someone who will use them.. Always love your content, Knowledge about old planes etc. Cup of Tea anyone? Gary/Hk
Paul, how do you feel about the use of wooden jack planes with a scrub grind? I have a jack which was already ground to a radius, and I stuck with it. I tend not to use it for facing panels, but often use it for reducing their width.
Yes, wooden ones work better than the metal ones.
Paul Sellers Paul, if I follow your other video and make a scrub blade for my Stanley #4 (just got it used on ebay) and widen the mouth, would I still be able to use it as a smoothing plane with its original a straight cut blade?
Excellent video and demonstration Thank You! At 67, I get winded faster than you do.
Absolutely. There is more written on the frog aspect of the plane than any other part and yet my research has shown that 99% of people never move it once they establish what they want.
Paul Sellers Paul, came across this and thought you might find it very interesting!
Excellent Video about “Influence of the Cap-iron on Hand Plane”” on Vimeo: vimeo.com/158558759?ref=em-sha
Scrub-adub-dub Paul!
Would it be a good idea to turn a no. 5 plane into a scrub plane or wouldn't that work as well as a no. 4? (I happen to have a no. 5 plane which needs restoration anyway)
That will work just fine.
Thanks for your reply. I'll give it a shot.
This just reminds me I need to take the wheels off my bench so it doesn’t move when planning ... so much crap to move tho lol
Who said that ? If it's in the budget, check into wheel kits that allow raising and lowering of the bench when you need it stable or moveable. Most woodworking supply stores (or online ones) will have them available. Some are even removable and you can buy extra brackets for other heavy tools that can use the same set of wheels (one tool at a time of course).
Something I learned quickly about wood planing is that the quality of the planing tool fall on second plane when you haven´t a good, strong, dependable and flat workbench, is the most important tool in deed (even it if hasn´t a vise).
I agree with mister Pindonga here, having a strong and hard workbench is key to planing in one stroke, as one should always strive to do. And if that doesn't work, just ask here and Pindonga will provide haha
You always said that the hand tools gave you a workout.
Now you have the Fitbit to prove it.
I got a record 405 multi plane in box for free and a lot of Stanley hand planes for free as well but the record 405 multi plane looks like it hardly been used but the only problem is that it doesn’t have the blades with it dose anybody know where I could get them and is it a good plane thanks
Nathan Richardson it is a very very good plane and can be used for many many jobs you can find plane blades for your plane on eBay as long as they are by the maker of the plane ie a Stanley no 50 plane blades will fit
Nathan Richardson all record plane blades will fit your record plane eBay is the place to get them
Thanks for helping
No wonder your Fitbit logs 30,000 steps each day!
I wish my smoothing plane was half as sharp as your scrub plane.