oh wow I have been using my scrub plane all wrong! That tip about taking off the 6mm from the edge by doing both sides first is great! Thanks Paul. As always, I feel so lucky to have access to such hard-won knowledge
@@timothygrupp if you cant draw a straight line with a square consider doing jigsaw puzzles instead of woodwork! But you're right its never the tool its always the man behind it. Hence the saying, a bad workman blames his tools!
Always an inspiration. Many years ago I got an old plane that had a lot of camber in the iron. I was so proud of myself after I worked for hours on a stone to make that iron straight. Now I know better and look back and laugh.
Older transitional planes (wooden/iron hybrids) work well for converting to scrub planes. They are fairly plentiful in the US. They usually have a worn wooden sole that also means the throat has opened up, and the wood on wood friction is significantly less than iron on wood so they really glide over the work.
This is why Paul is the best at teaching this. Honestly, never really knew how the "old timers" made a raised panel until I watched this. I always assumed was done with a chisel and sandpaper. In my opinion, Paul IS the best teacher/woodworker, I still have respect to Rob Cosman and Frank Klaus but, neither really go into this type of detail. Thank you kind sir. Excellent video as always, cheers :)
I use a reconditioned Stanley #5 with a cambered blade as a scrub plane. I use it for the purposes Paul has described here and also for flattening one side of a plank before I sent it through my thickness planer. It works very well. Thanks for the idea, Paul.
Fascinating. My wife's uncle, a retired carpenter, gave me a 19-inch Millers Falls foreplane when he moved to Connecticut. He gave me two irons for it, one with a pronounced camber. You've explained that. Thanks for the information.
Thank you very much Paul for sharing your knowledge and know-how. Watching your videos and practicing by myself, my woodworking skills skyrocketed in just a few months(from almost zero to a little, but that makes me a very happy person and I think this will last). It's always a pleasure discovering new techniques and designs with crystal clear explanations and demonstrations. I can't thank you enough for that. On the subject of scrub planes, here's a small trick I found for those noobies like me without a plane or spare iron dedicated to the task. Trying to take an inch thick, irregular and rock hard piece of beech down to less than 1/2", I tilted the blade of my no4 all the way to the right and then started scrubing across the grain with the (slightly) rounded corner of the blade. It hogs a lot of material and you have to be very careful not to tear off the opposite edge, but it gets the job done. I suppose it is most certainly bad practice, awkward and hard on the plane in the long run, but when in a tight spot, without the proper equipment, you gotta make do with what's at hand. Happy if it helps someone and glad to be corrected if anybody knows of a more "proper" way to do that kind of makeshift job :)
Paul.... Thank you so much for giving us instruction like this with details often absent from any other's posts. I'm serious when I say the joy of woodworking is many fold by your generous sharing. Again.. Thank you. You are much appreciated!
I have a coffin plane , you showed me how to use in Willow City. Keep it tuned and works great. Thanks for your craftsmanship and your teaching skills!
bonjour Paul, thanks you i have discovered the scrub plane et even better thanks to you again i succeeded to hand free sharpen the blade, what a pleasure ... fast efficient
I have a Number 4 languishing in my workroom dusty and unloved... not for long! I’m going to get scrubbing before you know it (after watching your vid on converting a blade again)! Thanks as ever Paul
I have 4...a wooden European style one with a heavy and rather narrow iron, 2 vintage Stanleys (#40 and 40-1/2) and a #4 converted into a scrub. The European one and both Stanleys are hammer adjust. The #4 has a very mild camber. All 4 are amongst the most used planes in my shop.
I’ve been trying some green woodworking as of late. I noticed my scrub/fore seems to work green wood better than my smoother or jack. The green seems to clog up the regular planes but the fat scrub shavings seem to go thru better without clogging
Hey paul, can you make a video about planing through knotty wood. Alot of free wood out here in NYC, some of it very beautiful, but alot of it is Pine with alot of very hard dry knots. I'm not sure if my plane iron is too soft but it's very frustrating, sometimes I have to stop and re-sharpen planing a single side of a 2 by 4.
Paul, a couple questions if you don't mind: 1. Do you specifically recommend a no. 4 size for a scrubber, or is it just preference? 2. When scrubbing for fast thicknessing, is there a process? Against the grain or with for speed and efficiency, or does it just depend on the piece of wood?
HI could you ask Paul if he can do a tutorial on drilling coach bolt holes in wood and using counter bore and counter sink drill bits please and the different types of wood drill bits for electric hand drill and also for boring brace and different bits.. many thanks!
As a tree climber in ironwood and mesquite country my best friends are a 3' rip and an old wallered out coffin "smoother" with a 5" camber. I've meant to get a slick for a couple of years but they cost more than I care to pay
I have a plane which has really quite a bit of play in the adjustment wheel, takes 6+ turns of it before it engages either back or fore. Anyway to make it less so?
Where the screw operated lever engages the hole in the chip breaker, I saw somebody who bent a small metal shim, hooked over the top of the iron, to insert in that gap, and clipped in place underneath the cap iron. Sorry, can’t remember who it was.
@@georgehyker Well, it’s either a case of reducing the play of the yoke inside the thumb wheel, or reducing the gap in the chip breaker. I tried the shim method, cutting a piece out of a bean can, and it worked for me.
Brilliant thank you. I've been doing some work that this will work wonders on. If you don't mind I have two questions. Could a lesser quality Jack Plane be converted to a scrub plane? And do you have any experience or tips for working with green timber? It seems a shame that so much UK wood is wasted as we lack space and infrastructure to process it efficiently, so end up burning hundreds and thousands of tonnes of beautiful oak and yew etc
Leonard Bailey intended for the #5 & #6 to be used for rough stock removal. Stanley didn't add the #40 scrub plane until a few years after they bought Bailey's patents. I have a cheap #4 set up for scrub work, but I haven't used it since getting a #5 a few years ago (now I use a #5½).
@@DavesRabbitHole Thanks David. I have a naff Whitmore I was thinking of selling. But I reckon it will probably be worth more to me if I convert it to scrub. I've been doing more reading on working green wood. The general answer i'm seeing is "don't" but surely people used to. It will just take more thinking about how things are going to shrink. It could probably even be turned into an advantage. Joints locking on to each other without glue etc. Though I guess it won't fit most ideas of 'fine' because of warps
Great video as always. Wanted to ask you about your vise offset from the bench surface. Is that for additional clearance? One opinion I heard was there should be no offset so that you can clamp a long board in contact with the bench instead of it just hanging off the vise.
That's simply how that type of vise is designed to be mounted. In order to flush mount it, you need to remove enough material from your bench top to accommodate both the metal jaw and the wooden jaw pad that you'll attach to it.
Hello Liviu, Paul addresses this question in some of his videos and blog posts but I can't find the exact one. But essentially, he leaves the offset so that he can grip his work with an overhand grip, which he finds much stronger and more comfortable. If the vise is flush to the bench, you have to grip the piece from underneath otherwise your fingers get pinched. Ah, here is one blog post where he mentions this: paulsellers.com/2016/06/on-vises-part-i/ "Many people seem disposed to recess the face of the rear vise jaw flush with the corner of the bench and then add a 1 x 4 the full length of the workbench to have a flush-to-the-corner straightedge along the length of the workbench. For some unknown reason of substance it’s “so they can clamp work flush to the bench for maximising support.” Whereas I don’t deny some may find good reason for this, I have yet to find a reason of real value, even for edge jointing work, so perhaps for me it is more the rarity than the norm because we generally edge joint much of our work in short lengths relying only on the vise and not longer than say three or so feet long. If we do need to we simply add a packer and clamp away without hindrance. Much better to have the vise jaw lining the width of the vise plus say an inch each end and have the real benefit of being able to grip your work throughout any process you care to name be that overhanded or underhanded. "
It's probably the silliest reason for having the back vise jaw flush with the bench edge `i have ever heard but you're right, everyone says it. I have never need to do such a thing in 56 years of daily working with wood. On the other hand, I put smaller sections into the vise a hundred times a day and the overhand grip is by far the faster and easiest way to do it. That said, if I do ever need to I will just insert a section of wood at one end and clamp it that way.
Because a scrub plane doesn't have to be as precise as a smoothing plane, you can get a cheap newly manufactured plane and grind a camber into the iron to make a scrub! The large mouths typical of cheap new planes is a liability for smoothing but works well for taking big shavings when scrubbing. Of course, you'll always want a nice old No. 4 to follow up with, hope you find yours some time!
@@HugoEckener127😀 I just ordered a cheap No 5 at Amazon (under 40€) and will give it a try. I expect a No 5 to be a bit better suited due to mass and length compared to No 4.
@@doedeldidoedelda Awesome! That sounds like a great choice. Having that extra weight to throw behind the plane will be nice when taking big bites out of stock.
Paul, do you still use the #78 scrub plane conversion you made a video about several years ago, or do you find the #4 scrub plane conversion is sufficient?
To translate loosely, " same as pine, just don't take off a big cut." If you think about it, a harder, denser wood will have you backing off versus a soft wood. For scrubbing, grain is less critical because you're hogging out instead of leveling and smoothing. Still don't want to rip out chunks, so keep an eye out
Mahogany is far from a tough wood. I use my plane on all woods with no issues. I do steer clear of exotic woods in general so most woods like oak, maple, cherry, ash and many more are not a problem at all.
A wide, shallow shaving is what a smoothing plane does. now if you mean a concave cutting tip? - that would make the corners of the plane iron did into the wood and leave lines when planing or you are going the route of molding planes.
You can set up a no. 4 like he has to do either task. The scrub plane setup has a heavy curve/camber on the edge of the blade, usually 8”-10” radius, a wide open mouth and the chip breaker set a little farther back, so that it takes heavy cuts and removes material quickly. A smoothing plane is set up with a very low curve/camber, a tight mouth and the chip breaker
Paul takes a smoothing plane, and converts it to work like a scrub plane. A true scrub plane is narrower, with a thicker iron, and large mouth opening.
I did on mine. I had an old Stanley #4 that was my very first plane, it was a cheap model with plastic tote and knob. after years of not using it once I got a good jack plane, I followed some on-line instructions to turn it into a scrub plane. replaced the plastic tote and knob with wooden ones, filed the mouth open more, got a new Hock plane iron and rounded the cutting end, leveled the sole with glass and wet-dry sandpaper until I ended up with a decent scrub plane. it was a cheap version to start with so still has a horrible amount of play in the adjustment wheel.
@@paulsellers7953 You are right. I tried it on two No.4s. It limited out with about 0.04" of clearance. On my Sweetheart 40 scrub plane, the mouth to blade gap is 0.20" (five times more!). That mouth also has a convex shape, which increases the gap. Thanks!
I sharpened my newly formed cambered iron till it was hair shaving sharp. Cut my skin too. But still I get tear out, shudder and the best shaving I can get is 1/20 of yours. Why?
How about keeping the politics out of this hobby? Not everything needs to be polarised. You can come here and watch Paul's content any time you wish. Nobody will care.
I think my intent was missed. More and more people are leaving the RUclips/Google/et.al. platforms due to their monitoring, censoring, blocking, deplatforming, “fact checking”, etc. based on political leanings. This impacts publishers like Paul as their audiences migrate away. Sharing his art on other platforms will benefit him with better monetization and visibility.
![Natanael Cano x Nueva H - Amapola [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6Q4mnRD5jCw/mqdefault.jpg)
1.3k likes, 0 dislikes. Everybody loves Paul!
oh wow I have been using my scrub plane all wrong! That tip about taking off the 6mm from the edge by doing both sides first is great! Thanks Paul. As always, I feel so lucky to have access to such hard-won knowledge
Absolutely love that raised panel.
Our power tool friends are still setting up their jigs for the table saw or router bit and router table.
Paul’s so good he doesn’t even need a ruler
Neither would you! Use your second finger as the fence on the board. 6mm (1/4") is easy to eyeball.
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 I can't even draw a straight line with a square! I think Paul's eyes are calibrated to a 32nd of an inch at least!
It's a calibrated pencil...
@@googies12a believe me, it's not the tool--it's the craftsman.
@@timothygrupp if you cant draw a straight line with a square consider doing jigsaw puzzles instead of woodwork! But you're right its never the tool its always the man behind it. Hence the saying, a bad workman blames his tools!
Always an inspiration. Many years ago I got an old plane that had a lot of camber in the iron. I was so proud of myself after I worked for hours on a stone to make that iron straight. Now I know better and look back and laugh.
Older transitional planes (wooden/iron hybrids) work well for converting to scrub planes. They are fairly plentiful in the US. They usually have a worn wooden sole that also means the throat has opened up, and the wood on wood friction is significantly less than iron on wood so they really glide over the work.
This is why Paul is the best at teaching this. Honestly, never really knew how the "old timers" made a raised panel until I watched this. I always assumed was done with a chisel and sandpaper. In my opinion, Paul IS the best teacher/woodworker, I still have respect to Rob Cosman and Frank Klaus but, neither really go into this type of detail. Thank you kind sir. Excellent video as always, cheers :)
I use a reconditioned Stanley #5 with a cambered blade as a scrub plane. I use it for the purposes Paul has described here and also for flattening one side of a plank before I sent it through my thickness planer. It works very well.
Thanks for the idea, Paul.
Is "amazing" too strong a word? Wow. Thank you Mr. Sellers.
Paul your videos are not just a lot of learning and inspiration, looking at you work is a meditative experience in itself ❤️
Fascinating. My wife's uncle, a retired carpenter, gave me a 19-inch Millers Falls foreplane when he moved to Connecticut. He gave me two irons for it, one with a pronounced camber. You've explained that. Thanks for the information.
Thank you very much Paul for sharing your knowledge and know-how. Watching your videos and practicing by myself, my woodworking skills skyrocketed in just a few months(from almost zero to a little, but that makes me a very happy person and I think this will last). It's always a pleasure discovering new techniques and designs with crystal clear explanations and demonstrations. I can't thank you enough for that.
On the subject of scrub planes, here's a small trick I found for those noobies like me without a plane or spare iron dedicated to the task. Trying to take an inch thick, irregular and rock hard piece of beech down to less than 1/2", I tilted the blade of my no4 all the way to the right and then started scrubing across the grain with the (slightly) rounded corner of the blade. It hogs a lot of material and you have to be very careful not to tear off the opposite edge, but it gets the job done. I suppose it is most certainly bad practice, awkward and hard on the plane in the long run, but when in a tight spot, without the proper equipment, you gotta make do with what's at hand. Happy if it helps someone and glad to be corrected if anybody knows of a more "proper" way to do that kind of makeshift job :)
I love my scrub plane. I would never have had one without you Paul. Thank you 😊
Paul.... Thank you so much for giving us instruction like this with details often absent from any other's posts. I'm serious when I say the joy of woodworking is many fold by your generous sharing. Again.. Thank you. You are much appreciated!
Many thanks Paul, hope you and the team are well!
a great help - I just bought an Ulmia scrub plane - thanks
God bless you,
I'm a big fan from Saudi Arabia, and I'm learning a lot from you sir.
Glad to see you! Glad that you are O.K.!
I have a coffin plane , you showed me how to use in Willow City. Keep it tuned and works great. Thanks for your craftsmanship and your teaching skills!
The master makes it look so simple. Thanks for the video.
bonjour Paul, thanks you i have discovered the scrub plane et even better thanks to you again i succeeded to hand free sharpen the blade, what a pleasure ... fast efficient
Really good tutorial! Thanks!
I have a Number 4 languishing in my workroom dusty and unloved... not for long! I’m going to get scrubbing before you know it (after watching your vid on converting a blade again)!
Thanks as ever Paul
Really amazing tips, Paul! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for the great video Paul and team. Please stay safe and well 🙏
So good.
Thanks as always.
Great video! Thanks Paul!!!
What a satisfying Saturday Morning watch. Just off in to the garage to sharpen my planes
Thanks for sharing this video !
Such a simple demonstration and at the end I sit here thinking - why have I never raised a panel like that, so effective?
Paul you are an artist with a hand plane, it is a joy to watch what is possible when you have one or two year of practice under your belt :)
Thank you for showing us. Such great technique!
He makes it look so easy !
You are such a master....
You are and will always be A LEGEND! Thanks for sharing your invaluable knowledge 😄
I have 4...a wooden European style one with a heavy and rather narrow iron, 2 vintage Stanleys (#40 and 40-1/2) and a #4 converted into a scrub. The European one and both Stanleys are hammer adjust. The #4 has a very mild camber. All 4 are amongst the most used planes in my shop.
I learned something today, thank you
Needed to buy a scrub and didn't want the 160 odd one from us so this IS PERFECT!!! Legend
Excellent knowledge as always, Paul. Thanks for the great video.
I’ve been trying some green woodworking as of late. I noticed my scrub/fore seems to work green wood better than my smoother or jack. The green seems to clog up the regular planes but the fat scrub shavings seem to go thru better without clogging
Very helpful info.
You are the Master!
So much information in so little time thanks a lot
Thanks again Paul
Such a rich knowledge which you share with the people. Thank you. The person who gave thumb down on this video probably did some typo
Awesome! Thank you sir.
I use my scrub plane a lot, a modified no4 Stanley acorn, but i have minimal powertools.
Thank you so much! I needed this!
Excellent and informative as always.
Hey paul, can you make a video about planing through knotty wood. Alot of free wood out here in NYC, some of it very beautiful, but alot of it is Pine with alot of very hard dry knots. I'm not sure if my plane iron is too soft but it's very frustrating, sometimes I have to stop and re-sharpen planing a single side of a 2 by 4.
Thanks
Another great video Paul
Thanks for sharing that!
I made a scrub plane out of an old no. 4 I had. It is of unknown manufacture but it sure makes quick work of rouch stock.
Paul, a couple questions if you don't mind:
1. Do you specifically recommend a no. 4 size for a scrubber, or is it just preference?
2. When scrubbing for fast thicknessing, is there a process? Against the grain or with for speed and efficiency, or does it just depend on the piece of wood?
HI could you ask Paul if he can do a tutorial on drilling coach bolt holes in wood and using counter bore and counter sink drill bits please and the different types of wood drill bits for electric hand drill and also for boring brace and different bits.. many thanks!
I found an old PowerKraft smoothing plane at an "antique" store and turned it into a scrub plane. It ain't pretty but it gets the job done.
Good way to repurpose a less than desirable plane. I wouldn't use a good Stanley number 4 unless I had just had too many laying around.
It’s been two weeks. Glad I stayed up late
As a tree climber in ironwood and mesquite country my best friends are a 3' rip and an old wallered out coffin "smoother" with a 5" camber. I've meant to get a slick for a couple of years but they cost more than I care to pay
If I wanted to make a cheap scrub plane (Stanley 40s are hard to find cheap) then i think I'd grab a no 5 1/4 junior jack instead of a no 4.
Agreed 5 1/4
A magician among men/women
Hello Paul. Instead of using a number 4 Stanley, I normally use a cheap old wooden plane which serves me just as well for this rough application.
Of course, but more people have a number 4 than vintage plane.
You look really good Paul. Looking healthy and strong.
Expert advice
Should you grind the chip breaker to match the blades camber?
Always a pleasure to watch your Videos. How do i sharpen a plane Iron to be a scrub iron ?
He showed that in a previous video. I think it was about sharpening.
@@RamsesBic Paul got so many Videos, but in cant find that special one. Thats why ist am asking
@@TheHibener Look here.
ruclips.net/p/PLqyeNiM0BJuVpCpRKrPgfFAX1nciAoPJZ
@@TheHibener 14 May 2018
I have a plane which has really quite a bit of play in the adjustment wheel, takes 6+ turns of it before it engages either back or fore. Anyway to make it less so?
Where the screw operated lever engages the hole in the chip breaker, I saw somebody who bent a small metal shim, hooked over the top of the iron, to insert in that gap, and clipped in place underneath the cap iron. Sorry, can’t remember who it was.
The pin must be too small
Maybe cut a slot in a washer and stick it in the gap? I’m going to try it.
@@georgehyker Well, it’s either a case of reducing the play of the yoke inside the thumb wheel, or reducing the gap in the chip breaker. I tried the shim method, cutting a piece out of a bean can, and it worked for me.
It is so simple, now I only need 10 years to practice that to reach the same level ;)
Nah. Just do this 3 or 4 times on pine and then some test hardwood pieces after learning to sharpen and you can pick it up pretty fast
Do you have a video showing how you sharpened the no 4 iron in to the scrub plane shape? Thanks
He has an old one that shows that.
@@konstantinivanov1986 thanks
Brilliant thank you. I've been doing some work that this will work wonders on.
If you don't mind I have two questions.
Could a lesser quality Jack Plane be converted to a scrub plane?
And do you have any experience or tips for working with green timber?
It seems a shame that so much UK wood is wasted as we lack space and infrastructure to process it efficiently, so end up burning hundreds and thousands of tonnes of beautiful oak and yew etc
Leonard Bailey intended for the #5 & #6 to be used for rough stock removal. Stanley didn't add the #40 scrub plane until a few years after they bought Bailey's patents.
I have a cheap #4 set up for scrub work, but I haven't used it since getting a #5 a few years ago (now I use a #5½).
@@DavesRabbitHole Thanks David.
I have a naff Whitmore I was thinking of selling. But I reckon it will probably be worth more to me if I convert it to scrub.
I've been doing more reading on working green wood.
The general answer i'm seeing is "don't" but surely people used to. It will just take more thinking about how things are going to shrink.
It could probably even be turned into an advantage. Joints locking on to each other without glue etc.
Though I guess it won't fit most ideas of 'fine' because of warps
I turn my cheap hand plane into scrub plane, and works grate!
Thank you
Wish he would show technique for flattening edge to quarter inch.
Great video as always.
Wanted to ask you about your vise offset from the bench surface. Is that for additional clearance? One opinion I heard was there should be no offset so that you can clamp a long board in contact with the bench instead of it just hanging off the vise.
That's simply how that type of vise is designed to be mounted. In order to flush mount it, you need to remove enough material from your bench top to accommodate both the metal jaw and the wooden jaw pad that you'll attach to it.
Hello Liviu, Paul addresses this question in some of his videos and blog posts but I can't find the exact one. But essentially, he leaves the offset so that he can grip his work with an overhand grip, which he finds much stronger and more comfortable. If the vise is flush to the bench, you have to grip the piece from underneath otherwise your fingers get pinched. Ah, here is one blog post where he mentions this: paulsellers.com/2016/06/on-vises-part-i/ "Many people seem disposed to recess the face of the rear vise jaw flush with the corner of the bench and then add a 1 x 4 the full length of the workbench to have a flush-to-the-corner straightedge along the length of the workbench. For some unknown reason of substance it’s “so they can clamp work flush to the bench for maximising support.” Whereas I don’t deny some may find good reason for this, I have yet to find a reason of real value, even for edge jointing work, so perhaps for me it is more the rarity than the norm because we generally edge joint much of our work in short lengths relying only on the vise and not longer than say three or so feet long. If we do need to we simply add a packer and clamp away without hindrance. Much better to have the vise jaw lining the width of the vise plus say an inch each end and have the real benefit of being able to grip your work throughout any process you care to name be that overhanded or underhanded. "
It is easier to hold by hand the piece of wood when you have clearance.
It's probably the silliest reason for having the back vise jaw flush with the bench edge `i have ever heard but you're right, everyone says it. I have never need to do such a thing in 56 years of daily working with wood. On the other hand, I put smaller sections into the vise a hundred times a day and the overhand grip is by far the faster and easiest way to do it. That said, if I do ever need to I will just insert a section of wood at one end and clamp it that way.
Great! Now I just wish I had an old no 4 and a spare blade 🙄
Because a scrub plane doesn't have to be as precise as a smoothing plane, you can get a cheap newly manufactured plane and grind a camber into the iron to make a scrub! The large mouths typical of cheap new planes is a liability for smoothing but works well for taking big shavings when scrubbing. Of course, you'll always want a nice old No. 4 to follow up with, hope you find yours some time!
@@HugoEckener127😀 I just ordered a cheap No 5 at Amazon (under 40€) and will give it a try. I expect a No 5 to be a bit better suited due to mass and length compared to No 4.
@@doedeldidoedelda Awesome! That sounds like a great choice. Having that extra weight to throw behind the plane will be nice when taking big bites out of stock.
What radius do you sharpen the scrub plane blade?
de 3 a 7 pulgadas, segun lo agresivo que quieras el corte
And it looks sooo easy if he doing it! If I try.......😢
Paul, do you still use the #78 scrub plane conversion you made a video about several years ago, or do you find the #4 scrub plane conversion is sufficient?
I do indeed. I usually use it before the converted scrub plane. It's phenomenal!
@@paulsellers7953 thanks Paul
👍🏼
How would you use a scrub plane on tougher or wild-grain wood like mahogany or Wenge?
igual que con el pino pero sin sacar tanto la cuchilla para que no desgarre
@@renzoperezd1287
Bien dicho.
To translate loosely, " same as pine, just don't take off a big cut."
If you think about it, a harder, denser wood will have you backing off versus a soft wood. For scrubbing, grain is less critical because you're hogging out instead of leveling and smoothing. Still don't want to rip out chunks, so keep an eye out
Mahogany is far from a tough wood. I use my plane on all woods with no issues. I do steer clear of exotic woods in general so most woods like oak, maple, cherry, ash and many more are not a problem at all.
but what if a plane had a camber in the other way around ? would it take a wide shallow shaving ?
A wide, shallow shaving is what a smoothing plane does. now if you mean a concave cutting tip? - that would make the corners of the plane iron did into the wood and leave lines when planing or you are going the route of molding planes.
Thats possible with a moulding plane and it makes a roud or a bullnose.
How do you grind a blade to make a scrub plane
Im new in woodworking planes.
I wanna know what is the different between a scrup plan and a smoothing plane ?
How can you see the different?
You can set up a no. 4 like he has to do either task. The scrub plane setup has a heavy curve/camber on the edge of the blade, usually 8”-10” radius, a wide open mouth and the chip breaker set a little farther back, so that it takes heavy cuts and removes material quickly. A smoothing plane is set up with a very low curve/camber, a tight mouth and the chip breaker
Paul takes a smoothing plane, and converts it to work like a scrub plane. A true scrub plane is narrower, with a thicker iron, and large mouth opening.
Do you alter the mouth on the body of the plane?
I did on mine. I had an old Stanley #4 that was my very first plane, it was a cheap model with plastic tote and knob. after years of not using it once I got a good jack plane, I followed some on-line instructions to turn it into a scrub plane. replaced the plastic tote and knob with wooden ones, filed the mouth open more, got a new Hock plane iron and rounded the cutting end, leveled the sole with glass and wet-dry sandpaper until I ended up with a decent scrub plane. it was a cheap version to start with so still has a horrible amount of play in the adjustment wheel.
@@ugaladh Did you also find a way to lessen the amount of play in the adjustment wheel?
Just adjust the frog to sit further back.
@@randybartlett3042 That doesn't work much at all. The bevel of the iron hits the rear sole edge in the mouth before any value can be attained there.
@@paulsellers7953 You are right. I tried it on two No.4s. It limited out with about 0.04" of clearance. On my Sweetheart 40 scrub plane, the mouth to blade gap is 0.20" (five times more!). That mouth also has a convex shape, which increases the gap. Thanks!
Hej, Claes Hulthe!
So is it Scrub Plane, Jointer Plane, Smoothing Plane? Or Scrub Plane, Smoothing Plane, Jointer Plane, Smoothing Plane again?
I sharpened my newly formed cambered iron till it was hair shaving sharp. Cut my skin too. But still I get tear out, shudder and the best shaving I can get is 1/20 of yours. Why?
Is there a close up of a scrub plane blade for reference? Or a video on how to camber it effectively? #StillANoob
Paul, I love your videos. Can you please start posting on Rumble? I am leaving RUclips due to their political activism through censorship. Thank you.
How about keeping the politics out of this hobby? Not everything needs to be polarised. You can come here and watch Paul's content any time you wish. Nobody will care.
I think my intent was missed. More and more people are leaving the RUclips/Google/et.al. platforms due to their monitoring, censoring, blocking, deplatforming, “fact checking”, etc. based on political leanings. This impacts publishers like Paul as their audiences migrate away. Sharing his art on other platforms will benefit him with better monetization and visibility.
thank you