Chainsaw Repair - Replacing the Crankshaft Bearings (Poulan Part # 530056363)
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2017
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This particular crankshaft bearing and seal assembly is specific to Poulan manufactured brands. To find a crankshaft bearing and seal assembly specific to your model, visit eReplacementParts.com.
If your chainsaw is showing any of these symptoms; replacing the crankshaft bearing and seal assembly could solve your problem:
1) Excessive vibration
2) Engine not turning over (engine seized)
3) Squealing or grinding noise from engine
4) Engine not starting
5) Crankshaft wobbling
eReplacementParts.com part number: 530056363
Tools used for this repair/replacement:
1) Wrench set
2) Ratchet/socket set
3) Flat-blade screwdriver
4) Small screwdriver
5) Torx drivers
6) Phillip’s screwdriver
7) Long-nosed pliers
8) Adjustable pliers
9) Clutch removal tool (optional)
10) Impact driver (optional)
11) Hammer
12) Ignition gapping gauge
13) Gasket scraper or razor
14) Liquid gasket
15) Two-cycle engine oil
Get model-specific repair help from eReplacementParts.com. Learn how to troubleshoot, diagnose and repair your power tools and equipment with illustrated instructions, hundreds of step-by-step repair videos, and our DIY forum. If you have a power tool or appliance problem, we can help. www.ereplacementparts.com/art... 
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Very professional spoke with clarity and captured well on camera 👍
Excellent video to watch clear and up close visuals thanks for doing such a good job. Very informational for me to see.
very clear and concise video- thanks !
Great explanation and great video's as usual.
Awesome video Thank you for explaining at step-by-step I hope that the youtuber can take lesson from you how to make a good awesome video
Excellent vid. Thanks.
very easy to understand.....thanks "e"
Quality tutorial thankyou. 👍
Great Vedio,thank you!!
There are two plastic filler plates that can slide out of the cylinder block they guide the two stroke mixture from the crankcase to the cylinder and the carb mixture to the crankcase. The have to go in the right slots. the bottom tabs align with the bearings correctly so they are positional. It makes sense. I am working on McCullock 842 it exactly the same. I just wanted to know if you sealed all round on the base as shown by you. And you do thanks? Wish I found this first! Had to learn bit by bit at least I know I got strip and build right.
I need to buy some from Youll for making theses videos
Thank You’ll 😊
It's great. Thanks
Nice informative vid. What size screws, bolts is in this saw
Thanks very much youer video my chain saw same fault
exelent video i´m from mexico
I think i know why he picked a poulan🤔
I trust this process works on other Poulan Saws as well. Mine is a 2150 w/o chain break. Could this be the cause of an air/vac leak?
Can we get a video for replacing the crankshaft please.
awsome explaination . A question . when instaling the oil pump gear, does it have to be pushed all the way till it stops on the shaft. Thanks
The is a great vid for a no start condition, If
You have spark and fuel and compression but the chainsaw won't start
The underside of the two stroke engine acts like a supercharger the engine is spect-ed out with a lower compression ratio if the seals next to the crank roller berrings fail you will not start
This vid about betting replacement solves this most common problem if you substitute the berring replace for the seal replace.
If you want to prevent this from happening in a month seal outer perimeter of main shaft seals with gorilla snot ( 3m trim adhesive )
The down side of this is future dissasembly "may" need acitone as it gets hard
Additionally there is a second carb upper hose that fails for a hint on older saws I cut up a old metric heater hose from Nissan to make a perminant repair
exelent
nice
Placement of base cap, it fits with regard to bore alignment if put on either direction?
Serious rebuilder question: It looked like you just slipped those bearings right on the crankshaft. I thought that wasn't good and that you should have to freeze the crank or heat the bearings to install and they should be tight, otherwise they can spin on the crankshaft and wear it down. Are these poulan bearings different? I have like 4 of these saws I'm considering rebuilding and would like to know for sure. Thank you.
They slip on I was worried about the seal being cut going over key way. It a slightly smaller diameter. It is as easy as he shows. But as he pulls cylinder off see the two plastic guide plates for the gas flow slide out. Note which is which and slide back in during assembly
@@anthonywilson4873 They only go in one way.
I believe these to be the same as the husqvarna 235 or very similar
Does the bearing need any pre-assembly lube or grease for initial start up?
I personally would at least hit it with a little bit of some sort of oil (like Marvel's Mystery Oil or some sort of other lightweight oil) just to keep them lubricated and help keep the bearings from hopefully experiencing any sort of premature failure until the oil/fuel mixture enters the crankcase and starts doing its job of properly lubricating all the internal engine components that need it.
After that happens the bearings should be okay on their own, especially if you aren't just immediately hammering down on the trigger and going wide open throttle (W.O.T.) as soon as you start up the saw like a complete jackass.
I like
Does this also work the same way for a Stihl chainsaw?
Unfortunately we are not a Stihl dealer. I don't want to tell you that it would or wouldn't. You will need to contact a Stihl Dealer, since they are the only ones that can service their saws. We do offer a few Stihl accessories, but
they are mostly chains and bars.
No. Stihl are dropped into a heated case so the case expands to allow bearing to drop in.
Shouldn't you use locktight on bolts that hold tha crankcase together?
Can use 242
I'd probably at least use the low strength Loctite (it's color coded according to its strength) to help keep the screws from backing out, potentially just a bit of the medium strength version, but I probably wouldn't EVER use the high strength version in most cases.
Especially if you use the saw a lot and you expect to have to do some more maintenance/repairs on it in the future at some point and you want to have the ability to take it apart again.
I say that because the high strength Loctite will be all but impossible to get past and you will potentially either just end up breaking screws/bolts off or stripping them until you can't really undo them anymore.
Because with the highest strength version of Loctite you basically have to hit the bonded screws/bolts with heat from a torch to ever come close to getting it to fully release it's bond on them so they can crack loose and be removed.
Now if you were using it on tractor or motorcycle bolts/screws that were in a place that experienced really hard vibrations constantly for example, then you using the medium strength Loctite would be the minumun requirement and the high strength version might just even be warrented to keep everything from backing out and causing any issues.
Sar cranksaft beyaring .Chain saw body damage ther salition
You never said what liquid gasket brand and number.
Loctite or Permatex both carry a liquid gasket, that would be acceptable.
Hello I love working on chainsaw but when it comes to the carburetor i get lost .I do follow some steps mentioned by people in the comments but it seams it is something else that i don,t get it ! I am a pensioner and leaves in north/west of Adelaide if you could help me in giving some hints it is very much appreciated thanks Tony .
Yikes ! Never use an impact gun to remove a clutch. Unless you like replacing broken crankshafts.
I am an experienced mechanic, you will never replace a crankshaft bearing by simply pulling it off the crankshaft with your fingers! this is a false ! video but it does describe how to take a saw apart back together but it will never be as easy as he made it look !
Typical Poulan saw,having to fix it even though it's brand new.
Jesus...
This was a pretty good video but in all honesty I'm calling Poulan/Husqvarna's hand at what looks to be sketchy or inferior build quality, as the plastic looking oiling mechanism and the piston with only a single ring looks suspect AF.
It probably wouldn't hurt anything to upgrade the oiler to a sturdier version made out of metal and get a replacement piston that has at LEAST two rings on it, preferably three if it was at all possible.
That's just my personal observation and take on things though...
Do not we have a friend? I can not see his face
This is a craftsman 50cc. Lol. I'm looking at exactly what I just did with mine.
plastic junk, give me a good old homelite!