OK, probably the most realistic "how to repair something" video I've EVER watched - this is how s#!t REALLY goes when working on ANYTHING old!! - a car, a house, an appliance, whatever. Refreshing! Thank You!
Also, with the 3 screws that secure the latch mechanism in place, I recommend a good ratchet with a flattened (not pointy) Phillips driver, instead of a screwdriver, for greater torque. And applying PB Blaster or some other rust breaking lubricant first, is a great idea (as shown in your video). Thank you!!
Thank you! My 2004 Jazz had the same problem with the plastic part missing but it was in the bottom of the door. As it's a 20-year-old car, I simply cut a square out of the panel to access the lock mechanism. I can't see how the part could have fallen out but your video helped me to see how to put it back. The lock still didn't work because the lever wasn't going far enough to the right. (The door handle and cable were free.) So I put a large magnet on the steel plate to the right of the lever and that pulled it the final 1/8" to unlock!
Hi all, for those of you struggling with the 3 Phillips cross head screws that hold the lock onto the tailgate, answer is to use JIS screwdriver set. Any other type will turn the screw cross hairs into cheese. Japanese Industrial Standard screwdriver will do it easy, no hammer and cussing required.
So glad I found your video. I was given my mother's 2008 fit, and it has the same freaking problem. It's rust city because the car mostly sat parked in NYC since the pandemic!
My door handle stuck too, so I’ve decided to quickly disassemble the door, lube the handle and put it all back together. Boy was I wrong. The same bolt decided it’ll better break in half than gets unscrewed, rear wiper rusted so much I was unable to remove it without special puller. So - great video!
Your video helped me to bravely take care about the latch mech in my jazz. I want to let you know there is a way to remove the handle out without removing or loosing the trim cover. I bent the part of the handle that holds the cable (let's call it an arm), put the old handle away, as I removed the registration plate earlier. Then I bent the arm of the new handle, put the new handle to it's final place, un-bent the arm of the handle and that's it. Assembled everything and it works just fine, even if the arm looks not that straight now.
Instead of removing that outer trim, I cut the hole in the sheet metal bigger so that I didn"t have to rotate the handle to get it out. I used an oscillatory tool to cut the sheet metal above where the latch sticks through it. If the original latch is frozen, it's easy enough to just cut the little arm off of the old latch. It's an easy cut.
I took mine out today, didn't have to remove the rear wiper, just poped the drivers side of the outside panel up. The handle came right out when i lifted the outside trim piece. New handle coming tomorrow.
Lol this must be a common thing....I have a 2013 Fit and last yr I went to a Patriots game w my son, went to open the hatch and .......nothing 😭😭 I, of course, started to panic thinking omg our chairs and food, etc must have gotten caught in the latch stopping it from opening... I was able to pop that plastic cover off and it opened from the inside luckily. Until it didn't, lol!😂 Sometimes I'd get it open, other times I couldn't get it to flipping close! It was like something was stopping it from latching on. Ugh....I got it to close and never opened it again til I got it to my mechanic which was yesterday, it needed back brakes, lol! He said the latch needs replacing, if I wanted to save myself some cahs, I can order the part from Honda, pick it up and he'll install it. Love my mechanic, always saves me money when he can..... I'm just curious (I didn't think to ask when he was on the phone & I know he's a busy man, so I didn't want to call back & bother him)....but does it matter of its Honda or after market? 🤔
Patriots? Sounds like rust got the best of another North Eastern Honda! OEM Honda or aftermarket will be fine, but OEM should last longer. Just keep everything lubricated so it doesn't rust. I have links to both in the description.
Many thanks for making this video! I ran into all of the problems you did - It was nice to have someone go through the process before I made the repair myself. BTW, mine is also an Ohio car - actually my sister's. We are quite familiar with rust and all of the wonderfully inconvenient places in which it crops up!
I am amazed at your stick- to-it - ive- ness, I would’ve given way long ago. Looks like I’ll,be taking mine Fit to mechanic to replace my hatch handle, but your vid was informative
Hello.. I too have a 2007 Honda fit in Canada and have the exact same problem with the latch…I watched you trying to take the handle out and had to laugh as I went to through the exact same motions! I am in Canada so was pretty cold these few months and have not been able to put the new handle on yet…I managed to get the old one out without cutting the bolt off but can’t put the new one in the same way. I wanted to ask when you cut off the rusty bolt head with a dremmel did you just put a new bolt in and it worked fine? I wasn’t sure if I have to have the exact same type that was rusted to replace or did you get away with a washer and nut and bolt? You didn’t show this in the video unfortunately:(
I was so done with that trim piece, that I just left the cut bolt as-is. I figured nothing short of being rear-ended by a semi is going to cause that trim cover to ever come off. It has been fine so far, but it might not be a bad idea to put a new bolt/nut/washer on- just use stainless!
I fitted the new lock mech and all seemed great . Then after locking it . The handle seemed weak and wouldnt release again like before . I wonder if its the cable.or handle ? I then have to get into the boot and pull the lever across to get it open . After that its seems fine ?
@@portiamthombeni3736 yes, I really had to push on it really hard. I hit it with PB blaster first. However, i didnt want that happening again and I bought a replacement part and its been working great ever since.
If it won't lock, the handle is rusty and the handle does not return to the home position. PUSH the handle toward the DRIVER, then it will lock. Its stuck in the PULL position and does not return to the home position due to the rust.
Don't buy any USED car from the rust belt if you value your money! If they made the pin in the latch handle out of stainless steel, NOBODY WOULD HAVE THIS PROBLEM with this handle. Poor engineering, the replacement part should have been upgraded.
OK, probably the most realistic "how to repair something" video I've EVER watched - this is how s#!t REALLY goes when working on ANYTHING old!! - a car, a house, an appliance, whatever. Refreshing! Thank You!
100% Nothing ever goes smoothly on a vehicle when you live in Ohio!
Also, with the 3 screws that secure the latch mechanism in place, I recommend a good ratchet with a flattened (not pointy) Phillips driver, instead of a screwdriver, for greater torque. And applying PB Blaster or some other rust breaking lubricant first, is a great idea (as shown in your video). Thank you!!
Thank you! My 2004 Jazz had the same problem with the plastic part missing but it was in the bottom of the door. As it's a 20-year-old car, I simply cut a square out of the panel to access the lock mechanism. I can't see how the part could have fallen out but your video helped me to see how to put it back. The lock still didn't work because the lever wasn't going far enough to the right. (The door handle and cable were free.) So I put a large magnet on the steel plate to the right of the lever and that pulled it the final 1/8" to unlock!
Genius solution!
Just got a 2007 Fit, for a real good deal, and the back hatch won’t open, so glad I found you vid🙃
Hope yours isn’t as rusty as mine 👍
Hi all, for those of you struggling with the 3 Phillips cross head screws that hold the lock onto the tailgate, answer is to use JIS screwdriver set. Any other type will turn the screw cross hairs into cheese. Japanese Industrial Standard screwdriver will do it easy, no hammer and cussing required.
Great tip, thanks!!
So glad I found your video. I was given my mother's 2008 fit, and it has the same freaking problem. It's rust city because the car mostly sat parked in NYC since the pandemic!
These are great little cars. I'm surprised how much I like mine!
My door handle stuck too, so I’ve decided to quickly disassemble the door, lube the handle and put it all back together. Boy was I wrong. The same bolt decided it’ll better break in half than gets unscrewed, rear wiper rusted so much I was unable to remove it without special puller. So - great video!
Your video helped me to bravely take care about the latch mech in my jazz. I want to let you know there is a way to remove the handle out without removing or loosing the trim cover. I bent the part of the handle that holds the cable (let's call it an arm), put the old handle away, as I removed the registration plate earlier. Then I bent the arm of the new handle, put the new handle to it's final place, un-bent the arm of the handle and that's it. Assembled everything and it works just fine, even if the arm looks not that straight now.
Instead of removing that outer trim, I cut the hole in the sheet metal bigger so that I didn"t have to rotate the handle to get it out. I used an oscillatory tool to cut the sheet metal above where the latch sticks through it. If the original latch is frozen, it's easy enough to just cut the little arm off of the old latch. It's an easy cut.
Good idea!
I took mine out today, didn't have to remove the rear wiper, just poped the drivers side of the outside panel up. The handle came right out when i lifted the outside trim piece. New handle coming tomorrow.
Lol this must be a common thing....I have a 2013 Fit and last yr I went to a Patriots game w my son, went to open the hatch and .......nothing 😭😭 I, of course, started to panic thinking omg our chairs and food, etc must have gotten caught in the latch stopping it from opening... I was able to pop that plastic cover off and it opened from the inside luckily.
Until it didn't, lol!😂 Sometimes I'd get it open, other times I couldn't get it to flipping close! It was like something was stopping it from latching on. Ugh....I got it to close and never opened it again til I got it to my mechanic which was yesterday, it needed back brakes, lol! He said the latch needs replacing, if I wanted to save myself some cahs, I can order the part from Honda, pick it up and he'll install it. Love my mechanic, always saves me money when he can..... I'm just curious (I didn't think to ask when he was on the phone & I know he's a busy man, so I didn't want to call back & bother him)....but does it matter of its Honda or after market? 🤔
Patriots? Sounds like rust got the best of another North Eastern Honda! OEM Honda or aftermarket will be fine, but OEM should last longer. Just keep everything lubricated so it doesn't rust. I have links to both in the description.
Many thanks for making this video! I ran into all of the problems you did - It was nice to have someone go through the process before I made the repair myself.
BTW, mine is also an Ohio car - actually my sister's. We are quite familiar with rust and all of the wonderfully inconvenient places in which it crops up!
Glad it helped!
I found myself rooting for you with those latch Phillips head screws🥳🥳
I am amazed at your stick- to-it - ive- ness, I would’ve given way long ago. Looks like I’ll,be taking mine Fit to mechanic to replace my hatch handle, but your vid was informative
Oh I wanted to give up but I figured it would make for a better video if I figured it out 😁
RUclips and WD to the rescue! Thanks!😅
In California it's possible to rust free good used parts (from PYP)
This is my first part choice
Dealer is the next
I need to start buying vehicles from CA
Thanks sir. This is a very usefull video. My 2009 Jazz had the same problem with the plastic part missing. Luckily it was still in the rear door.
Hello.. I too have a 2007 Honda fit in Canada and have the exact same problem with the latch…I watched you trying to take the handle out and had to laugh as I went to through the exact same motions! I am in Canada so was pretty cold these few months and have not been able to put the new handle on yet…I managed to get the old one out without cutting the bolt off but can’t put the new one in the same way. I wanted to ask when you cut off the rusty bolt head with a dremmel did you just put a new bolt in and it worked fine? I wasn’t sure if I have to have the exact same type that was rusted to replace or did you get away with a washer and nut and bolt? You didn’t show this in the video unfortunately:(
I was so done with that trim piece, that I just left the cut bolt as-is. I figured nothing short of being rear-ended by a semi is going to cause that trim cover to ever come off. It has been fine so far, but it might not be a bad idea to put a new bolt/nut/washer on- just use stainless!
I fitted the new lock mech and all seemed great . Then after locking it . The handle seemed weak and wouldnt release again like before . I wonder if its the cable.or handle ? I then have to get into the boot and pull the lever across to get it open . After that its seems fine ?
so it only happened the one time?
Anyone got any advice on what to do if that little tab that opens the door isnt releasing even after I move it over? Thanks.
Maybe the latch itself is seized?
@@6thGearGarage That is kinda what it feels like, yeah.
Not quite sure what to do about it lol
? Hi there, i have the same problem. Did u find a solution to yours
@@portiamthombeni3736 yes, I really had to push on it really hard. I hit it with PB blaster first. However, i didnt want that happening again and I bought a replacement part and its been working great ever since.
I have the same problem with the lock, that plastic piece broke too.
Hey Honda... if you're watching this... use metal next time!
what is the part number of latch mechanism
Honda Genuine Latch Assembly: amzn.to/3WpCBbk 74801-SAA-E21.
do you know if the handle of the 2009 honda fit is the same as the 2006 honda fit?
Yes, it should be the same part.
On the base model there is only one (green) wire connector to the rear latch
Yeah, base model also has a keyhole on the rear hatch. Sport only has electronic internal lock.
Thank you so much for this 🙏
You're welcome!
My fit IS just as rusty, unfortunately. I hope this goes well.🤞
Good luck… let those bolts soak in on blaster for a couple days first 👍
My hatch won't lock.. is it supposed to?
Yes, mine locks with the doors. The sport model does not have a keyhole.
@@6thGearGarage Thanks for responding...I havethe sport model also but the hatch does not lock with the doors...don't know why..
If it won't lock, the handle is rusty and the handle does not return to the home position. PUSH the handle toward the DRIVER, then it will lock. Its stuck in the PULL position and does not return to the home position due to the rust.
Here in the UK all our cars look rusty like that.
Do they use road salt there too?
@@6thGearGarage yes all winter.
Been there, enough to make a grown man weep, never got it off in the end (handle) just soaked it in WD40, lasts a few months and repeat.
Bro mine didn’t come with the cargo cover what a ripoff
TBH, they're over rated. Mine gets in the way 90% of the time and I only use it maybe 10% of the time.
Both my fits had this problem. Really crappy design on an otherwise amazing car
Totally agree, for such an economical car it is a lot of fun to drive.
Don't buy any USED car from the rust belt if you value your money! If they made the pin in the latch handle out of stainless steel, NOBODY WOULD HAVE THIS PROBLEM with this handle. Poor engineering, the replacement part should have been upgraded.
100% I never want to do this job again!
Honda Jazz in UK. Crap name I know.
Unenthusiastic yay