I just did this with help from your video. Thank you. As a contribution to the subject matter, I will say that I did not need to remove my headliner ( I just folded it down near the three bolts up top. I did need to pop the side panels and unbolt my seatbelt attachment to do so. Did not need to remove the seats. Cleaning off all the old butyl mastic from both the window and the cab took me ~4 hours because I wanted to make sure the contact was spotless for the butyl tape to adhere. Anyways, thanks for the helpful video!
The rust, spot welds & silicone looked absolutely horrific. I’m glad you took care of everything before it got worse. I’m gonna replace my back window on my ‘99 Ranger.
I’m not sure it’s been a while since I had my slider, I swapped it out for a one piece due to my cap on the back. Mine was leaking a bit but I think maybe the drain holes were plugged I’m not really sure.
Good point. I guess it all depends on your climate. If it’s smoking hot outside that’s a great idea. If it’s a bit cold I’ll actually warm it up so the bolts pull the window in nice and tight.
Great Video! I unfortunately ended up doing it twice. The first time used 1/8 in. tape which obviously didn’t work. The second time got 5/16 in. and it just started raining and leaking from right underneath the 3rd brake light. Followed your instructions to a tee making sure it was flush to the body. Any thoughts of what it might be? I’ve exhausted almost all options and dont want to silicone the top of the window or over tighten and strip out the top studs. Thank for your help :)
My guess is If you are seeing the water up top it’s not the window, when the window leaks it runs around the window and drips inside. Was the window and tape warm… almost hot. The warmer it is the better it compresses and seals. From the way your description I’d suspect the 3rd brake light up top is leaking. Use some butyl tape on it. Check for cracks… To test grab a hose have someone inside and slowly work your way up the window… letting the hose run on each area for quite a bit before moving on. At the very end run the water around that brake light. Hope you get it sorted out. Once you’re done it’s good for another 15years 😁
@@RangerShop1 I appreciate the response! I wish I could post pictures on here. That is correct! The water is coming from around the top 3, 9mm nuts that hold the window in place; one from just right of the top center nut and the other from the far top passenger side. I can visually seeing it come through when it sits over night and these California rains have certainly been "record breaking". It's not the third brakelight because of the baffle behind the third brake light is dry(plus ive been driving around without my headliner so I can see when it starts to drip). It's not "gushing in" just enough drops to irritate me since it's not right. As for the installation, there was no sun out the day I did it on so I used a torch to get it tacky enough but didn't want to melt the windows rubber seal. My next option is either A. take the window back out and reset the butly tape which I dont think will work without completely redoing it or I put a small bead of silicone on the outside of the window to prevent water from getting in in the first place. Appreciate the help! If the butly tape gets hot during the summer, do you think it's possible for it to seal then. I dont think the tape was warm enough when I put it in...
@@strikerherb8002 I’m sorry that stinks! Ok half the battle is finding the source of the leak! So here is my two cents. Skip the silicone it’s useless it will leak again. Do you remember if you definitely put the butyl tape on the outside of those bolt holes? If so you’re right once the sun gets on it you should be able to tighten those bolts down a bit more and it should fix your leak. Just be careful not to over tighten them…. It will pull them out or deform the window. Hope it all works out!!!
@@RangerShop1 I seem to have the same issue; water slowly dripping in from the top of the window inside the cabin. Inspecting the exterior, I can see just the slightest gap in between the top brake light and the body. Got some butyl tape in the mail and will be making my attempt tomorrow. FINGERS CROSSED.
The window frame is a plastic rubber material so no rust there. I don’t remember if I had any rust on the cab… if I did I like to treat it with por-15.
I had mine put in by a glass company and leaked during winter, i think besides no gasket, the bottom seal the whole window bottom is bent and never sealed. I take out window will it bend back, Cheap O glass place CA. ?
An that really stinks. I’d recommend doing it yourself go to a wrecker and grab a back glass get the sealer and then go to town. At least you will know it was done right. Also check that high mount brake for leaks.
You did it wrong. The tape is supposed to go on the cab, and then slap the window in and tighten it down. When you said the tape is not supposed to go back here only on the outer lip. YOUR WRONG. Its can go anywhere on there hi low whatever because of how plyable the tape is. It will all squeeze togeather good no matter what
We got trained on this when I was a mechanic at ford, worked there 15 years. It has to go on the outer lip because otherwise your stud holes will leak. The window is moulded with a track for the tape to go in. Don’t comment on what you don’t know or you will mess someone up and they will have to do it twice.
Here’s a link - 15ft Butyl Sealant Tape, 3/8'x3/8'x15ft Automotive Headlight Sealant, Black Butyl Seal Rubbber Tape for Car/RV Headlamps, Taillights, Windshields, Windows and Doors (2PCS) a.co/d/3XBNcQd
I just did this with help from your video. Thank you. As a contribution to the subject matter, I will say that I did not need to remove my headliner ( I just folded it down near the three bolts up top. I did need to pop the side panels and unbolt my seatbelt attachment to do so. Did not need to remove the seats. Cleaning off all the old butyl mastic from both the window and the cab took me ~4 hours because I wanted to make sure the contact was spotless for the butyl tape to adhere. Anyways, thanks for the helpful video!
Beautiful thanks for the extra info!
The rust, spot welds & silicone looked absolutely horrific. I’m glad you took care of everything before it got worse. I’m gonna replace my back window on my ‘99 Ranger.
Yeah it was terrible! It’s all good now, no more leaks!
So happy I found your RUclips channel! Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it helped a bit 👍
Very nice video, just what I was looking for! regards from Brazil!
Glad it helped! Thanks
Do you need or recommend primer before applying butyl tape??
Nope just super clean. I use a bit of Acetone to make sure there is no residue left
What size Butyl tape did you use ?
5/16th of an inch- made by 3m
Thank you for posting this.
Do you know if the slider window leaks as well and if the rail it sits in has drain holes?
I’m not sure it’s been a while since I had my slider, I swapped it out for a one piece due to my cap on the back. Mine was leaking a bit but I think maybe the drain holes were plugged I’m not really sure.
You need to keep it in the fridge first?
Good point.
I guess it all depends on your climate. If it’s smoking hot outside that’s a great idea. If it’s a bit cold I’ll actually warm it up so the bolts pull the window in nice and tight.
Great Video! I unfortunately ended up doing it twice. The first time used 1/8 in. tape which obviously didn’t work. The second time got 5/16 in. and it just started raining and leaking from right underneath the 3rd brake light. Followed your instructions to a tee making sure it was flush to the body. Any thoughts of what it might be? I’ve exhausted almost all options and dont want to silicone the top of the window or over tighten and strip out the top studs. Thank for your help :)
My guess is If you are seeing the water up top it’s not the window, when the window leaks it runs around the window and drips inside.
Was the window and tape warm… almost hot. The warmer it is the better it compresses and seals.
From the way your description I’d suspect the 3rd brake light up top is leaking. Use some butyl tape on it. Check for cracks…
To test grab a hose have someone inside and slowly work your way up the window… letting the hose run on each area for quite a bit before moving on. At the very end run the water around that brake light.
Hope you get it sorted out. Once you’re done it’s good for another 15years 😁
@@RangerShop1 I appreciate the response! I wish I could post pictures on here. That is correct! The water is coming from around the top 3, 9mm nuts that hold the window in place; one from just right of the top center nut and the other from the far top passenger side. I can visually seeing it come through when it sits over night and these California rains have certainly been "record breaking". It's not the third brakelight because of the baffle behind the third brake light is dry(plus ive been driving around without my headliner so I can see when it starts to drip). It's not "gushing in" just enough drops to irritate me since it's not right. As for the installation, there was no sun out the day I did it on so I used a torch to get it tacky enough but didn't want to melt the windows rubber seal. My next option is either A. take the window back out and reset the butly tape which I dont think will work without completely redoing it or I put a small bead of silicone on the outside of the window to prevent water from getting in in the first place. Appreciate the help! If the butly tape gets hot during the summer, do you think it's possible for it to seal then. I dont think the tape was warm enough when I put it in...
@@strikerherb8002 I’m sorry that stinks!
Ok half the battle is finding the source of the leak! So here is my two cents. Skip the silicone it’s useless it will leak again. Do you remember if you definitely put the butyl tape on the outside of those bolt holes? If so you’re right once the sun gets on it you should be able to tighten those bolts down a bit more and it should fix your leak. Just be careful not to over tighten them…. It will pull them out or deform the window. Hope it all works out!!!
@@RangerShop1 I seem to have the same issue; water slowly dripping in from the top of the window inside the cabin. Inspecting the exterior, I can see just the slightest gap in between the top brake light and the body. Got some butyl tape in the mail and will be making my attempt tomorrow. FINGERS CROSSED.
Did you sand away the rust and repaint before installing the new tape?
The window frame is a plastic rubber material so no rust there. I don’t remember if I had any rust on the cab… if I did I like to treat it with por-15.
My trim cap push pin whatever you wanna call it won’t pop out so I can access the bolts, any idea of how to get them loose?
Sorry missed your question. If you spin them as you pry they should pop off.
@@RangerShop1 thanks!
I had mine put in by a glass company and leaked during winter, i think besides no gasket, the bottom seal the whole window bottom is bent and never sealed. I take out window will it bend back, Cheap O glass place CA. ?
An that really stinks. I’d recommend doing it yourself go to a wrecker and grab a back glass get the sealer and then go to town. At least you will know it was done right. Also check that high mount brake for leaks.
where can i buy that part?
ooops tape
Here’s a link to what I used - www.amazon.ca/Headlight-Sealant-Headlamps-Taillights-Windshields/dp/B08NC7BQ96
You know what I would do with the ends is cut them in a way where they overlap even a bit more
Good idea!
You did it wrong. The tape is supposed to go on the cab, and then slap the window in and tighten it down. When you said the tape is not supposed to go back here only on the outer lip. YOUR WRONG. Its can go anywhere on there hi low whatever because of how plyable the tape is. It will all squeeze togeather good no matter what
We got trained on this when I was a mechanic at ford, worked there 15 years. It has to go on the outer lip because otherwise your stud holes will leak. The window is moulded with a track for the tape to go in. Don’t comment on what you don’t know or you will mess someone up and they will have to do it twice.
Yes sir, you are absolutely correct!@@RangerShop1
What size butyl tape do you recommend to seal the backglass?
What size butyl tape do you recommend to seal the Ranger backglass assembly?
His Amazon link above shows 3/8" butyl tape.
What size butyl tape did you use?
3/8”
Here’s a link - 15ft Butyl Sealant Tape, 3/8'x3/8'x15ft Automotive Headlight Sealant, Black Butyl Seal Rubbber Tape for Car/RV Headlamps, Taillights, Windshields, Windows and Doors (2PCS) a.co/d/3XBNcQd
What size of the butyl tape do you recommend?
I used 3/8”