Grex Model Aircraft Airbrushing Series - Episode 6 - Multi-Color Camouflage Scheme
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- All the previous techniques and steps are once again applied, but re-visited with the process of painting a multi color scheme. The same basics steps are repeated, but a certain order is essential to producing a flawless transition between the multiple colors.
National award-winning plastic aircraft model builder and painter Bryant Dunbar, explains and shows his simple yet highly effective techniques to creating a realistic looking finish. Having traveled nationwide demonstrating for Grex, he's had the opportunity to address the most common questions and learn from fellow model builders first hand. In this video series he covers in detail the step-by-step painting process from choosing the appropriate paints to painting a multi-color camouflage scheme. Whether you're just starting to learn airbrushing or an experienced builder, we're sure you'll pick up some great tips. Thank you to Bryant for developing this video series.
An excellent tutorial on multi camo schemes, clearly explained and easy to follow, the perfect tutorial, thank you. Brian @ The Angels
Im just about to start airbrushing and building ww2 aircraft and these tutorials have taken so much of the apprehension out of it making it a lot less daunting. thank you for these
Best tutorials ive come across , back to modelling after 30 years, and this has been a God send, thankyou.
Toby, Thank you and welcome back to the hobby. A lot has changed in 30 years and hope with newer and better quality products available they will contribute to a rewarding model building experience.
Thank you for sharing. Great series of tutorials.
Thanks for the videos, I for one found them extremely helpful as I am getting back into the hobby again after many years away. Thanks again
Great tutorial ! .its also so amazing that you share your work knowing how hard it is to prepare it all...thanks..!
Nice series Bryant, thanks for sharing these useful skills in such detail.
Thanks for demonstrating this technique in such a thorough manner. :) I will try this on my 1/24 Spit when I get around to it!
Thanks for the useful tips. I'm just getting into this hobby with my oldest son and your videos will help us take them to the next level.
Great video.
Thanks, these have helped me a lot, keep em coming! Very detailed and easy to understand.
Thank you very much for those series of videos.
Thanks for the video! I'm building an inexpensive 1/48 Typhoon as my first foray into aircraft modeling after many years away, and this is exactly what I needed to help my along with painting the camo pattern. Really very helpful and straightforward.
+Gregory Rush
Thank you for the thoughtful feedback. The Typhoon, like the Spitfire is one of those iconic aircraft that looks great with a well executed camo scheme. Send us a pic if you like when you finish your project. If you send to info@grexusa.com it'll get to me. Also if you have any questions let me know and hopefully I can help.
excellent video for airbrushing, , very easy to follow
great job, it looks awesome.
Great tutorial! Thank you!
Good and informative techniques, thanks
Wow! Thank you so much. I'm looking for a new airbrush and the grex brand always caught my eye.
You are more than welcome. Please feel free to take a look at our informational website. We provide a list of dealers, both internet as well as brick and mortar businesses. If you have questions please contact us at info@grexusa.com. I don't check RUclips all the time so the address provided will ensure a timely response.
Nice meeting you at Armorcon yesterday, Bryant. I'll be thinking about upgrading to a Grex. Great series of videos ... v helpful. Phil.
+Phil Morgan
It was great meeting you at Armorcon. Thank you for the thoughtful comment regarding the video. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me through our website, www.grexairbrush.com or through my email if you have my business card.
Enjoy your tutorials
I'm new to airbrushing, and I must say I've learned quite a bit from this series. Thank you for posting.
+Thomas Jefferson
Thank you for the feedback
Likewise. Was very good. I would love to see more of these. Not a repeat. Anything at all is good for new people like us. What about a "tips and tricks" post?
Also. I'm debating buying a .2mm needle. Many say it's not necessary. Could you post a video showing what's different and what's required to move to a .2mm needle. I know enough at this point to realize that a .3mm can get very fine lines but it's lowering the psi and creating a very thin paint as well as keeping the tip very close to the surface. In other words. I would love to see a video that shows exactly how much (and in what ways) a .2mm needle can change the lines produced. There are tons of posts about how to get fine lines but one based on the exact difference between two sizes would be something great to watch.
Alan, thank you for the feedback and suggestions. I'm not sure when we will schedule more videos to be shot, they do take time to produce. However, Grex is working on some new promotional items which will help explain many of the things you are talking about which will be due out later this year.
With regard to the performance of the .2mm and .3mm needle configurations it comes down to what medium is being used in the airbrush. Low viscosity mediums such as inks or dyes will work well with the smaller .2mm configuration. Paints, such as water based acrylic will tend to struggle and potentially develop tip dry issues. This is because the molecule size is much bigger than that of inks and is a higher viscosity. There's no way to get around this as thinning of the paint can lead to over thinning and the paint ceases to perform as it should. It may not adhere to surfaces properly or loose it's color quality (become translucent).
It may sound like semantics but please keep in mind a .3mm configuration is a third larger size than that of the .2mm configuration. It does make a difference in performance when using paints through the airbrush. Also, something else to consider, what I'm suggesting is relevant to Grex Airbrushes. What another manufacturer or someone who uses a different airbrush may say something different. The reason I mention this is because no two airbrush companies make the exact same design of their needles and fluid nozzles. This isn't to say Grex is better or worse than others, just that the engineering of each companies airbrushes is going to be a little different. So don't get hung up on nomenclature. We go as small as a .2mm configuration, other manufacturers go as small as a .18mm or even a .15mm configuration. The numbers don't automatically equate to one airbrush being better than another. The only way to tell is to try each one if possible. If a friend has a particular airbrush with a small needle size, ask if you can try it out for yourself. Just be sure you clean it properly and return it to them in the same condition it was given to you.
If you have more questions you can contact me through our company email, info@grexusa.com. Just mention my name and that you saw my RUclips videos. They will forward your email to me accordingly. I'll be traveling the next few days so my responses may be a little delayed.
Bryant Dunbar thank you very much sir. I'm going to do some playing around with my brush and the .3 and .2mm needles. Still getting used to it. And I'm sure I haven't achieved the thinnest possible line with the .3mm needle
Thanks,your video really helps me a lot.
But I think this is such a PRO techniques to me,ha ha!
I've used Silly Putty too. In fact I still use the plastic "egg" to store my poster tack. However, with Silly Putty I found it dries out and tends not to perform as well over time while poster tack actually performs better the more often it gets used.
Thanks buddy :)
Thank u for the video.
+dinomark lee
Thank you. I hope they help you for a more enjoyable airbrushing experience.
Pretty interesting something to try that’s for sure where can you buy the glue tack from , I just purchased a Grex airbrush can’t wait to try it out !
I like to use the good ole silly putty(TM). It is easy to mold with and makes great camo schemes too.
Great videos, your TG2 airbrush can operate for fine details at 6-10 psi ?
What air pressure are you using when spraying close to the model? Also, where can I purchase the smaller paint cups shown in your video?
Richard
What is the brand of the side cup airbrush you use in this video and where I can purchase one.
Thanks
Richard
Can you please tell me the type of airbrush you are using? I can't find the cups on the Grex website. Looks very handy to me...
What size needle in your Grex? .2mm or .3mm?
Damn....that was awesome
Can you highlight raised panel lines with decent results ? I do NOT have the patience or skill to sand everything smooth and then rescribe EVERY SINGLE PANEL. Especially 1/72nd.
Steps are..Priming color,pre-shading,masking and air brushing/painting camo scheme?
Thanks for this tutorial. I'ts great BTW.
I like how the spit camo came out... also P40... I have a question. I'm scratchbuilding a electric 1:12 Bf 109E. I want to paint pannel lines...On the surface there will be no grooves for pannel lines like on polistirene kits. Do you think this technique would be good for this? Staring with marker and ruller...straight 1mm black pannel lines followed by light black coat over, wider then the marker lines and then pannel by pannel...over that, like you did... some white to the main color Do you think this might work? If you have some suggestions PLEASE share with me. I bought an old paasche VLS for the job
and i'm practicing lines. I must have been made more then 50 plastic kits in my life but never had a proper airbrush. I'm into RC planes and now I want my new 109E to be a jawdropper... Haven really decided on camo for 109 but I think it wil be trop.
Greetings from Slovenia,
I think this technique could work well for your purposes. I have attended the Toledo R/C aircraft show where I have seen some phenomenal weathered schemes on WW II aircraft that were done similarly.
Due to a lack of actual panel lines you might want to consider demarcating them with pencil rather than marker before attempting the preshading. The reason for this is the graphite from the pencil might not bond with the paint itself and therefore not get lost once the paint is shot over it. Then perhaps use a marker over the pencil lines to re-establish the lines after painting is complete. I would test this out first to see how the paint performs and whether it bonds over (and thus covering the pencil lines) or allows you to still reference the pencil lines for later in the process.
Also, if you do go over the pencil lines with marker, test that out as well as some markers, such as a sharpie, can bleed significantly and completely ruin all your efforts. Furthermore, the marker might simply struggle over the microscopically rough texture of the German RLM colors not allowing consistent panel lines over the entire model.
Lastly, I too have built a number of WW II German small scale (1/72 and 1/48) aircraft and also have some images of the R/C aircraft I saw at the Toledo show. I'd have to hunt to find them but could probably forward them to you. If you are interested contact me through the Grex Airbrush website .
Hi I saw in this video that you have multiple colors already set up in extra reservoir cups. Where can I buy those cups as I am ordering the genesis xt gun and I would like to be able to switch out colors as quickly as you did. Thanks in advanced
Sorry for the delayed response. The color cups I use in the video are the Aztek line from Testors. You will need one extra adapter so they will interface properly, the AD31. It's generally $4.00 through our dealers. If you need help finding a dealer with them in stock email me through our company email, info@grexusa.com, just put Attention Bryant and it should get to me. We wanted to show in the video how our airbrushes can be compatible with products from other companies. Aztek has a variety of different size color cups, some are gravity feed (as I used in the video) , others are syphone feed. Google them and you'll see the various ones they have available.
Sorry, I've been traveling extensively and have not been able to catch up on questions regarding the videos. The color cups are from the Testors Aztek product line. We decided not to name drop on the videos. I don't even mention Grex specifically more than once or twice in the entire series. We wanted the videos to help any one that has an airbrush and not just Grex. We make our product adaptable to other product lines. In this case I'm using our AD31 Adapter to interface with the color cups.
Those cups are from testors aztek airbrushes. They are sold seperatly
Good for armour...I think so!
I've found that Blu Tack leaves a residue or stain on the paint. I've used MIG masking putty which comes away clean, but it's expensive. If anyone has a better idea, I'd like to hear it.
White tack doesn't leave residue
@@stevenartmann2642 Thanks Stephen, I'll try it.
great series mate! what PSI are you using for this technique please ?
+Siônmarc Simpson
Generally speaking I set the compressor at 20 psi static (not expelling air). With the Grex Tritium TG3 (.3mm needle) the psi will drop to 16-17 psi with the trigger fully open (uptake of the first stage of the trigger). This is generally my normal operating psi. If necessary I might dial it down slightly using my G-MAC which is a quick disconnect and air valve connected between the airbrush and the hose. In those cases I would estimate I'm working around 12-13 psi but not going below 10 psi generally speaking in most cases.
About the only times I'll work with a psi below 10 psi is if I'm working with Life Color (strange acrylic paint that doesn't like a lot of psi) or some metalizers when I'm doing subtle exhaust effects for jet engines and such.
+Siônmarc Simpson
Sorry, for the delayed response. I'm workingh with about 16 PSI working (not static) with the .3mm needle configuration. Please know that there isn't one magic PSI and even airbrushes with the "same" needle size but made by different manufacturers will perform slightly differently. Because of the unique design of the fluid nozzle and needle of each manufacturer they will perform differently from each other.
what is the Airbrush you use please as I'm disabled and I can no longer use the standard Airbrush but I've been told a pistol grip will be much better. brilliant tutorial. subbed.
+Rc-Nerd
Thank you for the response and compliment. I'm using the Tritium TS airbrush with Aztek color cups from Testors. If the small color cups are difficult to handle with your hand issues you might want to consider the Tritium TG, our gravity feed version of the same airbrush. Everything else is the same between the two. If you have more question please feel free to contact us through our website, www.grexairbrush.com
Thank you so much I'll look into it. Keep up the great work.
I forgot to mention. We also have a grip customization kit for the pistol grip airbrushes (Tritum TG and TS). You can make the grip any way you want to accommodate your needs. Again, ask us through our website and I can send you images and explain how it works.
Thank you. I've just seen the link. This is what I need. Prays to you.
Would like to see the finished item.
Sorry but I did not get to finish the Spitfire. The models used were quickly build for the demos in my series of videos. I prefer to build 1/72 scale models (smaller) but choose to use 1/48 scale kits to accomplish the videos.
one thing i dont' like about the postshading technique is how some edges seem to pop out more. on the green that is, it doesn't seem to be noticeable on the gray
Please understand we needed to have more contrast for the video camera. If I were building a model with the intention to enter it for competition and judging I would use these same techniques but more subtle. It will still result in more character and interesting paint scheme than to spray just the base colors.
I was running a temperature and sore throat with a very limited time frame to shoot the videos. Sorry that's all you got out of the videos.
can you use painters tape or masking tape instead?
+Luke Finlayson
I'm not sure how to answer your question. When you say "instead" do you mean to get the same effect? If that's what you mean then I'd say no but then you don't describe how you would apply the tape.
If you want to pre-cut the tape and apply it to the model then you are going to get a hard sharp edge from one color to the next. What the poster tack does is create a slight draft due to the curvature of the mask itself which will produce a softer line from one color to the next. The easiest way I can explain the difference is to do the following-
Take a post it note or some sort of card stock and hold it against the surface of a model and spray along the edge. When the card is removed a sharp painted edge is created. Now take the same card stock and try to hold it slightly off the surface of the model and spray again. You'll find the result will be much different. The edge will be "feathered" by comparison. The poster tack creates the same effect but more subtle.
The only way I could see using tape in a similar manor would be to roll the tape around itself to create a "tube" so to speak and carefully tack it to the model. However it becomes impossible to serpentine it back and forth to address all the curves and natural shapes of a Spitfire scheme. Also not to forget trying to negotiate the wing to fuselage interface and such would be a very daunting task. Tape in this case would jut at sharp angles and result in a very odd scheme for a Spitfire.
So I'm shooting in the dark here but hope I've answered your question somewhere in this context. Some camouflage schemes are nothing but hard edges from one color to the next while others are more feathered. So it comes down to what particular scheme for a particular aircraft or subject it being attempted. Tape used in the normal scene (pre-cut and apply) will result in one result, the poster tack will result with a different result.
How do you spell the name of that putty stuff you're using. Im having a hard time finding some. I love your videos. Thanks
I'm using Elmer's-Tack in the video. It's very similar to Scotch/3M's Poster Tack. The Elmer's product is Orange where as 3M's is white. The color does not effect the performance of the product or effect hobby paints adversely. I've not seen Elmer's-Tack in stores for some time now but it appears it can be purchased on line. 3M's Poster tack is available at Staples and Office Depot.
You may find a cheaper version of 3M's poster tack at Staples but I recommend not getting it to save a few pennies. The cheaper product has an inferior performance and tends to leave a residue on the model when removed.
Blu tac
Bryant, i got to say...you sure know how to do tutorials right man!
In a little over 10 mins you covered a whole darn model....i seen others here take like 40 minutes preshading one single, damn panel line....what kind of BS is that? HAHA =)
Could you tell me what airbrush are you using? And what accessories used too.
Kind regards
Rodrigo,
I'm using the Grex Tritium TS (side feed) airbrush with the AD31 adapter threaded into the port. This adapter allows for the interfacing of the Aztec color cups made by Testors. I also have the G-MAC quick disconnect and air valve. I don't recall adjusting the psi with the G-MAC. I was running at 20 PSI indicated on the compressor when the airbrush trigger was not engaged. When the trigger was pulled the indicated PSI would drop to around 16-17 PSI on the compressor regulator gauge.
The Grex Tritium airbrushes come with both a standard needle cap (general coverage) and crown cap (detail work) and are magnetized to the airbrush. Which ever one is not being used can be placed on the end of the handle at the back end of the airbrush. I configured the airbrush with the crown cap and is the configuration I use almost exclusively when painting my models. I hope this helps.
Regards,
Bryant Dunbar
Grex Airbrush
My apologies for not responding sooner. I've been traveling extensively for the past 3-4 months and haven't had a chance to check RUclips. The airbrush I'm using is the Grex Tritium TS3 with the Grex AD31 press fit adapter (sold separately) which allows for the Aztec Color Cups to be used.
so glutack?
THIS HOMIE GOT SWEG
like to see more of the model and less of the man :(
Over wheathered
Yes, as I've stated before, so the camera can see it. If I'm building a model for competition the effects are more subtle. Not sure why that point has to be addressed over and over again.
you know what it looks like ? Snakes ... on a plane !
"I am sick and tired of all these motherf*cking snakes on this motherf*cking plane!"
Can i have the spite fire
Ahhahaahahaha.
THIS GUY LOOKS LIKE HE DOES NOT WANT TO MAKE THE OR BE IN THIS VIDEO AT ALL.
Failed to show the final results of the paint job! 11:09 minutes of my time wasted! 👎🏻
There are more processes, clear coating, decals, other weathering effects such as pin washes and such. Then decals and flat coats. Only basic airbrush skills are necessary for these aspects, not a lot of "technique" is necessary. Sorry you're disappointed but many of the processes beyond where we stopped do not involve the use of an airbrush.
I didn't know they painted their aircrafts with such a thin layers of paint during the war, looks more like a watercolor layers to me... A poor example of painting with an airbrush.
Not sure what you mean. It's not like they preshaded and post tinted the paint schemes at the factory when the aircraft were built. So how you are correlating that with models that attempt to represent aircraft in the field that experience weathering and the effects of war???
As for a poor example of airbrushing, the judges at the IPMS National show don't seem to agree as I more often than not take a few first place awards using these techniques on my models. A model with a factory fresh paint scheme is usually the most boring subject on the table and not likely to win anything.
Bryant Dunbar
Those would be consolation prizes...
*****
OK, and your tutorials are where??? You talk the talk do you walk the walk???
Bryant Dunbar
Why should I have any?? I don't have the time to waste mine, but you obviously do, so go F yourself. Oh, I'm sorry, did I just interrupt something...
***** But you have time to criticize others out of hand without any substance or justification of your own. You must enjoy being a foul mouthed troll. You can go away now.
Can you tell me what size nozzle you used? I am looking to buy my very first airbrush for use on plastic models and I have no clue what size to buy.
Sorry for the delay in a response. I know to respond when I check the video. I don't get notices when posts are made. To answer your question I use a .3mm needle/nozzle. Many assume the smallest possible needles is necessary for fine line work. If you are an illustrator or graphic artist that maybe true. However, for hobbyists that shoot paint on models viscosity and particulate size becomes a big issue.
Paint is much lover viscosity than ink and therefore will tend to spatter out of the airbrush rather than flow out. Also particulate size can also cause clogging of very small nozzles even if the paint is thinned correctly.
Thinning is another issue. The range of proper thinning is much more narrow. Thin too little and the paint will exhibit pore performance and spatter out simply because air will push it out of the airbrush one way or another. Over thin and the paint ceases to perform like paint. It may not bond with the surface of the model correctly or it may become translucent when it shouldn't.
The .3mm needle on our Tritium TG3 and TS3 as well as our new Genesis XGi3 and XSi3 are the optimal needle size for fine line work as well as general coverage for scale model work. I've made this recommendation to many model builders and they have come back to me months and even years later and expressed that I was correct in this regard. Others have purchased our TK-2 nozzle kits only to find out they never use them. So purchase at your discretion but my advice is pretty sound.