Cheers! I'm no great fan of faffing about when I've only got the one tank at a time to paint. ;D I'd probably feel differently on busting out the airbrush if I had a whole motor pool to get through, but it's definitely a nice-to-have rather than a must.
A little tip that I personally use. When washing the entire tank, I prefer to use oil paint. This has the key advantage in that it's possible to manipulate it long after applying it. If it doesn't come off with a paper towel just dampen it with a bit of white spirit or odorless thinners. As well as being easier to clean up it gives a certain 'feel' to the model, it just looks heavier and grimier if that makes sense. Granted not for everyone but still :)
I have this exact panther sitting and waiting for paint and this video has me ready to do it! I don't have an airbrush so the brush instructions are greatly appreciated
Those are some very cool weathering techniques I would not have tried on my own. And here I've been using dark colors to dirty tank treads all these years, like an animal. My orc bikes will be getting some new grime in the near-but-still-grimdark future.
I think the colours you choose for weathering have a lot to do on what you're trying to replicate. Dark stuff tends to look - at least to my eye - more fresh and wet, if we're thinking of dirt and grime. It surprised me using such light colours by comparison, too, but it seems to look a little more caked-in and dried over time. Definitely worth hitting Orks with!
Now the real trick is finding a way to actually fit this beast into one of my armies! I think my poor beleaguered Volksgrenadiers just got their hands on some armoured support... ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio well as a serving member for the Royal Canadian Armour Corp, I can tell you point of fact that tanks park where ever they want! 😊 and one tank can do more battle field damage in 15 mins than an entire infantry company can do all day. 🤣. The infantry HATES when we point that out! 🤣. …but tanks can’t hold ground! ( we tankers hate it when the infantry points that out) 🤣🤣🤣. So what I am saying as your army needs both! You’ll find the room and be glad you did! 😊👍
The base yellow colour varied a lot through the war, due to production and supply's of paints and thinners. Generally you will see early tanks in the war this a darker yellow. By later 43 to mid 44 you get a more light sand colour, then well they went out into the field with their hull red primer layers as they had no paint. So there really is no wrong answer. I generally do my German armour in a more mid 44 colour which would be quite light sandy colour. But what's great about this hobby its up to you and what you like.
Ammo by Mig, Standard German colours 39-43 has all the colours you need to paint the German Tri-colour patter. Another method is with the Army painter spay cans. Desert yellow as the base & then Army green & leather Brown for the pattern to get the "airbrushed" look.
I'd figure you'd need to mask the hull in some way to spray them without putting on too thick a layer at a time, but that's not a bad idea at all. Army Green is such a useful colour!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I have tried stencils made out of making tape as well as masking putty & then layering the paints. Leather brown as the base, let it dry, than add the putty. do then the Army green let it dry, than add the putty. Finally do the desert yellow on dry, peel off the putty & you have your camo pattern.
Cheers, John! I think there's a lot more small tips and pointers in this one than usual. Plenty of little tidbits for just about anything for a change.
Thanks for the tutorial. I recently painted a Panther simular to this but with the sponge technique and ending with some Snow on the top. Next one I will do the full camo pattern.
Hello! I love your historical ones. Thanks so much for making it relaxing and kid friendly. My daughter likes your voice. And there’s no wild hard rock metal into! TY! I wish you’d do more 15mm/Flames of War.
I tend to find most of the painting methods that work on 28mm usually scale down a bit - not always, and I've got plans eventually to include a little more small-scale stuff on the channel. I do also thoroughly recommend Pete the Wargamer if you're looking for Flames of War specific guides, he's got a bunch you might find useful. :) I'm always really pleased to hear from parents that're cool with watching my stuff with their kids. The idea here's always been to be approachable and 'suitable for all ages,' in a manner of speaking. Tell your daughter Sonic says hi! ✌
I think I'd ordinarily have the same problem! It was by accident I figured out using a brush to smudge the collected shade, but it works fairly well once you're all done.
In an Osprey book it said that most of the time the tank crews would be given their tank, along with 3 tins of paint, and told to paint it themselves. Anything from brushes(if available) to rags were used to apply it.
I'd read a while ago in another Osprey - although it might have been the same one - which mentioned that in desperate situations of shortage, camo paint was applied in the field with a branch! 'Close enough' really is the rule of German tanks at this sort of scale.
great paint job. Vallejo paints are great. i liked your tips I use both brush and airbrush. I find that Vallejo paints are easier to work with through brushing. Excellent tips have fun with your next project. D.
Hi-ho! I'm working on it. Vehicles take a LOT more work than infantry figures and since they aren't ordinarily the mainstay of an army, they haven't really been the focus of the channel yet. That being said, I think it's about time we got to some of the really cool stuff out there, and vehicles are always fun!
Excellent! I would consider using satin varnish over gloss as it’s less shiny and I find washes flow a bit better. Also I’ve found that gloss/satin varnish brightens a model while matt darkens it. So you want to keep both coats really thin using a medium thinner.
Greetings from Canada! I love the work you do on your WWII armour and figures. The brief outline of scale vs. light makes a lot of sense in order to make the colours 'pop' in (my preferred) 15mm scale. The Panther G looks lovely. Thank you for the tutorial.
It was one of those strange discoveries that I knew I had to share. Knowing it, it makes perfect sense, but it absolutely blew me away to figure out there was simple physics involved with colour matching like this!
Have you ever used very thinned-down oil paints for an overall wash? It is supposed to gather nicely into recesses but not darken the colors too badly on flatter areas. And you can wipe off excess oil wash even a considerable amount of time after application (unlike an acrylic wash, which I find you have to remove QUICKLY from areas you don't want stained).
I've used a couple of enamel washes and stains before that work very similarly. Being able to apply them and then do clean-up for ages afterward is super useful, and all with just a little dab of white spirits. The drying time does make them a little impractical for the purposes of recording something like this, unfortunately! 😅 But they are dead useful, especially on smaller scale stuff you want to really pop without a ton of work.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Ah the single 28mm tank 😄 I got hordes to paint in 15mm and I like going the extra mile with BF plastics and printed ones, they look great for game pieces and vehicles are so easy compared to the infantry (also hordes to paint for my Soviet list).
Okay, I watched this again because I'm about to tackle some 15mm armor. I'm working on a Stug III and started it in a different style but I'll probably finish it like this. I'm normally a bit skittish about applying decals to 15mm vehicles because they're small and used as game pieces. I mean, everyone knows what a German tank looks like without getting into too much detail.
Such an interesting video. So many RUclipsrs start with black primer for their mini's and I've just never liked it. Maybe scale effect is the reason. I prime everything in lighter tones, and that includes the box sets of FoW and Team Yankee I've recently picked up. I also really appreciate artists who show us how to use brushes and drybrushes to their fullest. I am using rattle cans for primer and base coat but then it's over to the hairy sticks. More videos like this one, please.
Black primer has its uses, but I'm finding I use it a lot less now than when I got started painting. Especially with the variety of easily available coloured primers you can get now, it seems a waste not to take advantage of some of them! I've heard it said that black primer 'hides mistakes,' but it seems just as liable to end up having you make them while you're trying to work with it as well.
Hi! Rattle Cans and blu-tac can do if you are in a pinch for time. But this brush work really does look great for not a lot of effort (relatively speaking) and no special tools.
I've seen it used to great effect a few times, but the funny thing is that the brand here which is essentially the German version of blu-tac is super sticky by comparison, and really hard to get out of cracks and crevasses on a model once it's had a chance to settle. Weird, but true! I'm going to try my hand at masking tape at some point for a really sharp-edged camo, and see if that's any use.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Silly Putty? Is that a thing in Europe? Here it is in the toys section of shops, usually comes in a plastic egg. It is very similar to the fancy Tank Camo putty, but incredibly inexpensive by comparison
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I'm using Walmart craft paints and practicing on painting my dark angels so I used paving sand to base them, coated in a glue wash used this purple and yellow for the sandy brown and dabbed it on then added a little squiggle of thinned out brown and grey to paint over the base sand. It turned out better than I thought my first base would.
*Waves hello* Even though I'm not painting any WWII stuff, watching videos like this are always good for techniques. I've also been watching a few model aircraft painting videos and seeing how some are using enamel pin washes which I might try sometime. Have you tried using those before?
I've had some success with enamel washes in the past; it's really the drying time that works against them for videos of this format. That being said, I've got plans at some point to tackle them because of the value in being able to essentially adjust your shading for aaages afterward with a little bit of white spirit.
Thank you for sharing; Was the Green Ochre thinned with water or just the Wet Palette? Any tricks/hints to minimize the brush strokes? You have an airbrushed look, absolutely wonderful...
A very educational and, for me, unique and different way to paint German armour. I build mostly 1/35th scale and paint with an airbrush. Would these brush techniques work on a larger model? Thanks and keep the videos coming!
The methods should work, though in honesty I'm not sure how they'd react to more space! You'd probably find you'd want to be a little more careful in how you're applying the spots, and at a larger size you'd be better to apply the shade as a wash directly to recesses rather than splattering the whole tank in it. Otherwise, brushes is brushes!
Hi sonic! How in the world did you know that red leather mix would dry so different? When you started spattering it on the tracks my heart seized. But as always I kept the faith and sure enough it turned out awesome! P.s. I settled on red boltgun cases for my ultramarine successor chapter!
Not myself, but I'm sure it'd work. Past a point a green is green, though I'd probably use something like Zamesi Desert for the dunkelgelb instead of Ogryn Camo.
The scale modeler in me is screaming inside at the lack of painting the entire track run . . . (If you feel like you have the time, a really good weathered track tutorial was put out by Martin over on NightShift). (Given the size and exposed tracks of GW armour, the effect would really pop on them)
The interleaved tracks are a bloody nightmare to paint after assembly - honestly, could the Germans not have done anything the easy way? 😅 I totally agree, though. I'll have to go check out that guide, that sounds really interesting.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio , He demonstrates on metal tracks for a 1:35 Tiger, but I've successfully used it on smaller scale plastic tracks as well. Martin's 'standard' level of weathering is somewhere around what most people would consider 'Golden Demon level' painting (but scale modeling leads to a bit of OCD in painting things that will never be seen, so . . .)
From late 1943 to the end of the War you would find German Paint to be in a range and not spot on. I believe that would drive the German mindset crazy but this was just the reality of what was available. Now the Russians from the start had a fairly wide range of green as a standard.
![Simple Winter Camo - Whitewash Any Tank! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LqiCPAy7i2A/mqdefault.jpg)
23:00 Hi Troy! :D
Great to see a straightforward, non-airbrush, methods for tanks. Much appreciated 👍
Cheers! I'm no great fan of faffing about when I've only got the one tank at a time to paint. ;D I'd probably feel differently on busting out the airbrush if I had a whole motor pool to get through, but it's definitely a nice-to-have rather than a must.
The black rims do look nice!
Eight outermost road wheels that need the attention, but... yeah, totally worth it. :D
I love the ww2 themed videos recently!
Just got into Bolt Action and I’m looking forward to using these videos to paint some tanks up! Thank you!
Great work! Those tracks look great ;)
Yeah, someone really cool gave me some clever tips!
A little tip that I personally use. When washing the entire tank, I prefer to use oil paint. This has the key advantage in that it's possible to manipulate it long after applying it. If it doesn't come off with a paper towel just dampen it with a bit of white spirit or odorless thinners.
As well as being easier to clean up it gives a certain 'feel' to the model, it just looks heavier and grimier if that makes sense. Granted not for everyone but still :)
I have this exact panther sitting and waiting for paint and this video has me ready to do it! I don't have an airbrush so the brush instructions are greatly appreciated
Those are some very cool weathering techniques I would not have tried on my own. And here I've been using dark colors to dirty tank treads all these years, like an animal. My orc bikes will be getting some new grime in the near-but-still-grimdark future.
I think the colours you choose for weathering have a lot to do on what you're trying to replicate. Dark stuff tends to look - at least to my eye - more fresh and wet, if we're thinking of dirt and grime. It surprised me using such light colours by comparison, too, but it seems to look a little more caked-in and dried over time. Definitely worth hitting Orks with!
I have 3 airbrushes and still think this ^^stipling method is the best , most satisfying and enjoyable way to apply camo to German tanks.
You hit another one out of the park! Really cool! Thank you! Cheers 🍻!
Now the real trick is finding a way to actually fit this beast into one of my armies! I think my poor beleaguered Volksgrenadiers just got their hands on some armoured support... ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio well as a serving member for the Royal Canadian Armour Corp, I can tell you point of fact that tanks park where ever they want! 😊 and one tank can do more battle field damage in 15 mins than an entire infantry company can do all day. 🤣. The infantry HATES when we point that out! 🤣. …but tanks can’t hold ground! ( we tankers hate it when the infantry points that out) 🤣🤣🤣. So what I am saying as your army needs both! You’ll find the room and be glad you did! 😊👍
The base yellow colour varied a lot through the war, due to production and supply's of paints and thinners. Generally you will see early tanks in the war this a darker yellow. By later 43 to mid 44 you get a more light sand colour, then well they went out into the field with their hull red primer layers as they had no paint. So there really is no wrong answer. I generally do my German armour in a more mid 44 colour which would be quite light sandy colour. But what's great about this hobby its up to you and what you like.
I prefer German camo beige over the yellow ochre, looks great imo.
Nice tutorial - worth the effort you put in .
Much obliged! I think this one features a few more useful pointers than most, so it ran over my usual time - didn't help I was painting a monster!
Ammo by Mig, Standard German colours 39-43 has all the colours you need to paint the German Tri-colour patter. Another method is with the Army painter spay cans. Desert yellow as the base & then Army green & leather Brown for the pattern to get the "airbrushed" look.
I'd figure you'd need to mask the hull in some way to spray them without putting on too thick a layer at a time, but that's not a bad idea at all. Army Green is such a useful colour!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I have tried stencils made out of making tape as well as masking putty & then layering the paints. Leather brown as the base, let it dry, than add the putty. do then the Army green let it dry, than add the putty. Finally do the desert yellow on dry, peel off the putty & you have your camo pattern.
Very excited. I’ve been working up the courage to try late war German armour without an airbrush. Better watch the video now.
The model looks great and I learned a lot of new techniques. Thanks for sharing all of this helpful information.
Cheers, John! I think there's a lot more small tips and pointers in this one than usual. Plenty of little tidbits for just about anything for a change.
Thanks for the tutorial. I recently painted a Panther simular to this but with the sponge technique and ending with some Snow on the top. Next one I will do the full camo pattern.
Hi! Great video. Your videos were the first I watched when starting to paint minis. Thank you for continuing to make great tutorials.
Glad you like them! Great to hear they've been of use to help get started. ✌
Hello! I love your historical ones. Thanks so much for making it relaxing and kid friendly. My daughter likes your voice. And there’s no wild hard rock metal into! TY! I wish you’d do more 15mm/Flames of War.
I tend to find most of the painting methods that work on 28mm usually scale down a bit - not always, and I've got plans eventually to include a little more small-scale stuff on the channel. I do also thoroughly recommend Pete the Wargamer if you're looking for Flames of War specific guides, he's got a bunch you might find useful. :)
I'm always really pleased to hear from parents that're cool with watching my stuff with their kids. The idea here's always been to be approachable and 'suitable for all ages,' in a manner of speaking. Tell your daughter Sonic says hi! ✌
Thank you, love your videos.
Glad you like them!
Hello! I really enjoyed this one! Please do more tanks! Maybe some transports! Honestly I gonna watch anything you put up! Great work as always!
Hello and thanks! I got some fun new tips, perhaps I'll finish the camo on my 1/76 Nitto Pather!😉
Hi. Im painting my king tiger and will be using some of the techniques from this video. Love your How you paint things videos. Cheers!
nice result!
Great job! I’m going to try this on my Rubicon Panther. Thanks for this and all your awesome How I Paints.
Go nuts! :D They're lovely kits, and most of them have some really crazy detail etched into them.
Thanks man, its very useful. Im new to model kits and i dont have money for airbrush. U saved me.
Thank you most useful, I have a few of these to do and have never yet used an airbrush! cheers
Love the look. More historical vehicles please!
Thank you , Sonic .
Hiya Sonic , :-)
Well, howdy! 😂
Nicely done! I always have trouble using shades over large flat panels. It was good to see how you do it.
I think I'd ordinarily have the same problem! It was by accident I figured out using a brush to smudge the collected shade, but it works fairly well once you're all done.
In an Osprey book it said that most of the time the tank crews would be given their tank, along with 3 tins of paint, and told to paint it themselves. Anything from brushes(if available) to rags were used to apply it.
I'd read a while ago in another Osprey - although it might have been the same one - which mentioned that in desperate situations of shortage, camo paint was applied in the field with a branch! 'Close enough' really is the rule of German tanks at this sort of scale.
Great video! I’ve got a couple of spw 251 waiting to get painted and this was just what I needed. Cheers mate! 🙏🏻
Stunning thank you
I would love to see how you paint modern British camo I have an empress mini on my bench which I’m thinking we’re do I start lol
great paint job. Vallejo paints are great. i liked your tips I use both brush and airbrush. I find that Vallejo paints are easier to work with through brushing. Excellent tips have fun with your next project. D.
I have painted mine with Japanese Uniform as a base. It feels really similar to me. Great job!
Oh cool! I can imagine that'd be quite close. Maybe a little more rich in yellow? Good choice!
Another great video, Troy. I love WW2 armor. Thank you!
Simple yet amazing looking. Love your videos. Watch all of them even for the miniatures i will never paint. Just to keep all the techniques in mind.
I try to make sure there's a little something useful in every video. Most of these techniques are applicable across plenty of miniatures, after all!
Hi!
Great video! Would love to see more vehicles.
Hi-ho!
I'm working on it. Vehicles take a LOT more work than infantry figures and since they aren't ordinarily the mainstay of an army, they haven't really been the focus of the channel yet. That being said, I think it's about time we got to some of the really cool stuff out there, and vehicles are always fun!
Excellent! I would consider using satin varnish over gloss as it’s less shiny and I find washes flow a bit better. Also I’ve found that gloss/satin varnish brightens a model while matt darkens it. So you want to keep both coats really thin using a medium thinner.
I would suggest a cocktail stick with the point chopped off to apply the dots.
Greetings from Canada! I love the work you do on your WWII armour and figures. The brief outline of scale vs. light makes a lot of sense in order to make the colours 'pop' in (my preferred) 15mm scale. The Panther G looks lovely. Thank you for the tutorial.
It was one of those strange discoveries that I knew I had to share. Knowing it, it makes perfect sense, but it absolutely blew me away to figure out there was simple physics involved with colour matching like this!
HI! I just found your channel and I love the results you get without the airbrush.
Hi! Great video. Thanks, man. Going to try this on some Space Marines. Because I’m weird and like camo marines in 40k.
It also looks awesome on Leman Russes, if that helps to know. ;)
Have you ever used very thinned-down oil paints for an overall wash? It is supposed to gather nicely into recesses but not darken the colors too badly on flatter areas. And you can wipe off excess oil wash even a considerable amount of time after application (unlike an acrylic wash, which I find you have to remove QUICKLY from areas you don't want stained).
I've used a couple of enamel washes and stains before that work very similarly. Being able to apply them and then do clean-up for ages afterward is super useful, and all with just a little dab of white spirits. The drying time does make them a little impractical for the purposes of recording something like this, unfortunately! 😅 But they are dead useful, especially on smaller scale stuff you want to really pop without a ton of work.
I hate painting vehicles, but you made this look very achievable. Great work!
It's a little more slow going than usual, but if you're going to have just one big cat on the table... might as well make it count!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Ah the single 28mm tank 😄 I got hordes to paint in 15mm and I like going the extra mile with BF plastics and printed ones, they look great for game pieces and vehicles are so easy compared to the infantry (also hordes to paint for my Soviet list).
Very cool paint job. I really like how it turned out.
Well done, looks great
Very nice pattern
Hello 👋, that was a cool video with lots of tips thank you. Cheers 🍻
Great stuff! Weather tanks always seemed a pain to me, but that dust wash of yours looks great.
Weathering and really grubbing them up is always my favourite part! It's painting tracks and all the little equipment that makes me go cross-eyed... 😂
Fantasticbreakdown. Love the ideas as always. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I've even seen some late '44/early '45 using the oxide primer as the base; with the yellow painted over in camo stripes
Yes hello you did a fantastic job on that tank looking forward to the next video
Great results
Great video!
Okay, I watched this again because I'm about to tackle some 15mm armor. I'm working on a Stug III and started it in a different style but I'll probably finish it like this. I'm normally a bit skittish about applying decals to 15mm vehicles because they're small and used as game pieces. I mean, everyone knows what a German tank looks like without getting into too much detail.
Such an interesting video. So many RUclipsrs start with black primer for their mini's and I've just never liked it. Maybe scale effect is the reason. I prime everything in lighter tones, and that includes the box sets of FoW and Team Yankee I've recently picked up. I also really appreciate artists who show us how to use brushes and drybrushes to their fullest. I am using rattle cans for primer and base coat but then it's over to the hairy sticks. More videos like this one, please.
Black primer has its uses, but I'm finding I use it a lot less now than when I got started painting. Especially with the variety of easily available coloured primers you can get now, it seems a waste not to take advantage of some of them!
I've heard it said that black primer 'hides mistakes,' but it seems just as liable to end up having you make them while you're trying to work with it as well.
Love this. Great techniques and theory too.
Hi and thanks for painting a tank!
Nice job. I really enjoy your channel.
Thank you very much!
I have a Jagdtiger and Pz4, will try this on one of these.
I'd definitely start with the PzIV, see how you like the look on that before going mad on that big boy! :D
Hi!
Rattle Cans and blu-tac can do if you are in a pinch for time.
But this brush work really does look great for not a lot of effort (relatively speaking) and no special tools.
I've seen it used to great effect a few times, but the funny thing is that the brand here which is essentially the German version of blu-tac is super sticky by comparison, and really hard to get out of cracks and crevasses on a model once it's had a chance to settle. Weird, but true! I'm going to try my hand at masking tape at some point for a really sharp-edged camo, and see if that's any use.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Silly Putty? Is that a thing in Europe? Here it is in the toys section of shops, usually comes in a plastic egg. It is very similar to the fancy Tank Camo putty, but incredibly inexpensive by comparison
I've been mixing light yellow with dark violet for my sandy yellow color
That sounds like it'd work really well! The names on some of these Vallejo paints do make me laugh, though. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I'm using Walmart craft paints and practicing on painting my dark angels so I used paving sand to base them, coated in a glue wash used this purple and yellow for the sandy brown and dabbed it on then added a little squiggle of thinned out brown and grey to paint over the base sand. It turned out better than I thought my first base would.
I like tanks. Good video.
awesome job!
Hi thanks for all the useful advice
😀you are the best
Think this is the method for my German Armour. Looks really good
I used a cocktail stick just dipped in white paint excess paint removed and the stick dabbed on .
Fantastic, thank you
Anyone in for a Drinking game? "DUNKELGELB!"
2:48 into it an I’m drunk!
Love it
Great video, I really learned a lot, thanks ever so much
thanks for this tutorial!
Hi - thank you for the tank vid
Awesome!
That's a cute little panzer. :3
Cute isn't ordinarily the word I'd use, but whatever works for you! 😅
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Rest assured I meant it as praise!
Very nice
Hi! Great vid. Thanks
*Waves hello*
Even though I'm not painting any WWII stuff, watching videos like this are always good for techniques. I've also been watching a few model aircraft painting videos and seeing how some are using enamel pin washes which I might try sometime. Have you tried using those before?
I've had some success with enamel washes in the past; it's really the drying time that works against them for videos of this format. That being said, I've got plans at some point to tackle them because of the value in being able to essentially adjust your shading for aaages afterward with a little bit of white spirit.
Came out great. Oh yeah, Hi!
Howdy! :D
Thank you for sharing; Was the Green Ochre thinned with water or just the Wet Palette? Any tricks/hints to minimize the brush strokes? You have an airbrushed look, absolutely wonderful...
A very educational and, for me, unique and different way to paint German armour. I build mostly 1/35th scale and paint with an airbrush. Would these brush techniques work on a larger model? Thanks and keep the videos coming!
The methods should work, though in honesty I'm not sure how they'd react to more space! You'd probably find you'd want to be a little more careful in how you're applying the spots, and at a larger size you'd be better to apply the shade as a wash directly to recesses rather than splattering the whole tank in it. Otherwise, brushes is brushes!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks for your reply. I may give it a go someday. I might first try it on my 1/48th scale Tamiya T-34/76
Patiently waiting for the tiger tutorial.
It'd be exactly the same as this on a slightly differently shaped hull. 🤷♂️ The technique works whatever you're applying it to.
Hi sonic! How in the world did you know that red leather mix would dry so different? When you started spattering it on the tracks my heart seized. But as always I kept the faith and sure enough it turned out awesome!
P.s. I settled on red boltgun cases for my ultramarine successor chapter!
Practice! I tell you something, though... even knowing how it's going to turn out, it still makes me nervous putting it on! 😂
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio HIIIIIIIII!!!!!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio A Interaction to help the Algorithm
Very useful; thank you.
Have you tried using citadel paints for this eg death world forest for olivgrun, ogryn camo for dunkelgelb etc?
Not myself, but I'm sure it'd work. Past a point a green is green, though I'd probably use something like Zamesi Desert for the dunkelgelb instead of Ogryn Camo.
The scale modeler in me is screaming inside at the lack of painting the entire track run . . . (If you feel like you have the time, a really good weathered track tutorial was put out by Martin over on NightShift). (Given the size and exposed tracks of GW armour, the effect would really pop on them)
The interleaved tracks are a bloody nightmare to paint after assembly - honestly, could the Germans not have done anything the easy way? 😅 I totally agree, though. I'll have to go check out that guide, that sounds really interesting.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio , He demonstrates on metal tracks for a 1:35 Tiger, but I've successfully used it on smaller scale plastic tracks as well.
Martin's 'standard' level of weathering is somewhere around what most people would consider 'Golden Demon level' painting (but scale modeling leads to a bit of OCD in painting things that will never be seen, so . . .)
GJ. :)
Why hello, nice tank you got there!
Very cool vid. Ta
All right me duck from the home of WG
Ey up, chuck! 😉
Another great video and also the requested hi 👍
Hello there!
Good kitty
Ok... so now I know how I'm painting my Flames of War germans!
From late 1943 to the end of the War you would find German Paint to be in a range and not spot on. I believe that would drive the German mindset crazy but this was just the reality of what was available. Now the Russians from the start had a fairly wide range of green as a standard.
Hi! There, "contractual obligation greeting" complete. n.n Great video, as always.
Felicitations, fellow human unit! 😂
CAN THIS CAMO PATTERN BE DON ON ANY GERMAN TANK?
A Interaction to help the Algorithm
Whys is you do so little dots
Because the dots were very little? I'm not sure I understand the question.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio why did you do so little dots