Very strange results with Mission Models paints. Is this a chance that paints you’ve received was spoiled? Paints that I have works well. I am usually thin them 90 % paint 10 % thinner and 1 drop of poly. Sometimes 15 - 20 %. I've noticed that you thinned 20 drops of yellow + 5 drops of white with 15 drops of thinner. It is approximately 40 % of thinner. Here is my recent project painted with them without any issues: www.flickr.com/photos/max-rossomachin/albums/72157716598809998
The red crosses are an interesting story, they were a pretty late war thing. The germans figured out (or made up) that the allies were aiming at them by pointing their sights at the white outline of the cross. As these were often on the sides and rear, and around where the crew was situated, the crews got a bit anxious about the obvious white outline. To ease their minds, the white outlines were painted over with red paint. That's why the red sometimes can appear a bit rough compared to the rest of the markings. There is a late-war StuG III at Aberdeen Proving grounds in the US that has its paint still intact, albeit very dirty, but with a red overpainted cross on the rear.
Funnily enough the same story is with the Americans and the White Star on their tanks being placed directly ontop of crew positions or ammo (namely the M4 Sherman series). German AT crews or tanks -after noticing the giant white star - would shoot the star or near it for a guaranteed kill/knockout so crews would paint over them in the field with a dark grey or black paint, making it a 'subdued' star or covering it with mud so it was harder for the enemy to see.
@@hex6970 I never understand why we continued with White Stars and lettering on our vehicles through the mid 70s. It’s not very tactical at all, go with black or grey lettering and Stars or dark Matt yellow like the U.S.M.C did.
@@Barabel22 While I cant answer why we used it for so long, it was phased out when the 3 Tone Camo was adopted. Though it most likely remained in service until 1975 as an easier way to identify friendly tanks as back then it wasnt as easy to keep track of whos who, I guess.
@@Barabel22 You don't put markings on a tank unless you want them to be seen. Knowing which of your tanks are which is more important than the enemy seeing some random writing that means nothing to them. If camoflauge is an issue you're going to have to do a lot more than just change the color of some writing on a 70 ton armored vehicle.
Let me tell you something, Uncle Night Shift. You have no need to apologize for your airbrushing skills, nor for using Tamiya paint. I have over 60 years modeling experience (started in 1959) and I CAN NOT STAND Vallejo paints and their ilk. I know there are people that swear by them. When I use Vallejo, I swear; usually a lot! There is a reason that Tamiya is a premier company. When I use Tamiya I have no worries about thinning, whether it will stick, or whether I can mask it. It does all of those things well. Plus, it is very cost effective. You can mix any color; camouflage, whatever you need. There are multiple recipes all over the net. At my age, I don't need the headaches that go along with a paint that won't stick, won't cover, or pulls up when you have to mask it. No. You did just fine! See you guys next week.
I’m a model maker myself, I’m not amazing, but I’ve just restarted getting into it again as I did it as a very young teen, mind you I’m still a teen but I’m coming up 19 lol, I’ve just recently found your Channel and it’s amazing dude! The stuff I have learnt and the little tricks and tips you provided has actually helped so much
I once painted it on a box used to store artwork at art-class at elementary school and the teacher was very pleased with how "abstract" it looked. Did not tell her it was SS camo :D
...and this video is the reason why you're my favourite RUclips modeller. Showing where you've had problems, not just the best takes of where things went well. Airbrush cammo is something I've always struggled with. Thank you for giving pointers where I can improve.
Thinning paint for airbrushing is secretly easy. You just have to control two variables: paint viscosity and air pressure. That's it, really. It's that easy. The air pressure is the factor that forces the paint to atomise. The paint viscosity (thickness) is fighting the air pressure. If the paint viscosity wins that fight you get spluttering. To fix that you either increase air pressure or decrease viscosity by using more thinners. Finding the right balance is easy because there are only two variables in play. Usually between 1:1 and 2:1 of thinners to paint works with most paint brands.
I love your channel because most modelers are very serious or don't talk or do much commentary at all. You are hilarious and I wish more modeling channels will follow your example.
Another splendid video. I didn't care much for Mission Models paints either. I couldn't get it to spray well for camo coats. It was kind of splattery along the edges, like it doesn't atomize well for fine work. I tried their reommendation for thinning and when that didn't work, I started experimenting... still no-go. I have stuck with Tamiya ever since since it has never let me down!
My experience as well, there were a few times where I felt like I got them dialed and everything looked perfect, but after taking a quick phone picture and looking at it, there was still a lot of grain. Some people have amazing results with them though!
i think you did a really great job on that camo, i've been a little scared to try it with the airbrush but you just showed me that it can be done. thank you
night shift, a method to weather German steal road wheels like on this is ammo mig acrylic mud (thick layer) over the road wheels, then (whilst its still wet) brush with tap water aver it. the dried mud will then look realistic
Beautiful camouflage. I’m trying to work up the courage to tackle the 1/16 Jagdtiger; I spent 9 months all together on the 1/16 Panther and swore off lengthy projects for a good while, but now you have done gone and got me to thinking about that big sucker on the shelf..... Oh well, no pain, no gain. Love the channel! M
I must test that MMP one melting each other, weird stuff as i was layering one on another with my aibrush, diluted with MMP thinner. not sure why that would be such a difference using brush, these are water based paints thou. I also have to say that MMP was my favorite acrylic paint and most easy to use.
I have had unsatisfactory results using MMP, I don't think it has a strong adhesion like Tamiya for example. The issues I've had with it reactivating are when I try to do chipping effects with it. Lacquer paints like Tamiya seem to flake away and actually chip off leaving a hard edge after they're cured but the MMP seems to just turn back to wet paint and rub away. Even if it's had over 24 hours to dry. But they spray fine for me and I love them for base layers or if I want a kind of worn down, distressed effect as opposed to a hard edge chipping effect. I actually had a great effect of their faded OD paints sprayed over a Tamiya dark OD base. Some very cool, buffed down, distressed look. I think it's a great paint for certain things but certainly doesn't replace lacquer based options.
@@ScaleHangar182 I don't. We were talking about Mission Model Paints which are not vinyl acrylic and are supposedly designed to work for the hairspray chipping method. I just have not had good results using them for the hairspray method. They work fine for me when I over thin them and increase the air pressure of my set up though.
Thanks for your videos buddy. I came back to the hobby after many years and your tips are very helpful, especially with painting, as I’m absolute begginer with it 👍
Canadian viewer. Really nice job. I tried Mission Model paints....not for me. I gave them to my brother...about 35 bottles. I went back to Tamiya and good old lacquer thinner....bullet proof combination.
i love it man. i usually do aircraft but thanks to you i have a massive shopping cart ready with a Tiger 2 and a bunch of products you use as well to see if i can make a tank look decent. cant wait.
Hi Night Shift, great video. I really like your straight and honest presentations; you're a great storyteller. Now my own 2 cents of wisdom with regard to painting camo on tanks and aircraft. Since I'm fairly good at even paint them freehand in 1/72, I guess I don't suck painting camo as much as I do with other stuff ... :) 1. Best paint I ever tried out, and I tried them almost all: AK Real Colors. 2. Thin the paint, a lot! The thinner the needle, the more you have to thin. With a .2 needle in my H&S, about 60% thinner and 40% paint. But I'm never precise on the mixture; mix it directly in the airbrush's paint cup. 3. Lower the pressure to about 15 PSI. 4. Use the tool for fixing the nozzle so that only a bit of paint gets out. 5. Don't start right away spraying the model; I spray for about a minute on scrap plastic, for allowing the thinned paint to get "used" to the process, and myself to the paint. :) 6 Get as close to the model for spraying the contour lines of the camo. In a next step, open the nozzle a bit more and paint the inner areas. 7. Practice, play around with and adjust all these variables, practice more, ... Cheers, and always happy modelling!
what i do is get my lines on then pull the airbrush back a little ways and open it up a little more (trigger) and get a wider spray to fill in and it comes out wicked!
Looks terrific, from a fascinating period of the late war. I was looking at Andy's Hobbies video recently and saw that Tamiya have released a new range of late war german colours.
Yes, and the Tamiya late war green & dunkelgelb 2 are good, however many modellers dislike the new late war brown. BTW, "Panzermeister36" did a very helpful YT video review about the new Tamiya paints for late war, and the new Tamiya paints for AFVs in North Afrrica. It's worth checking out. 🖒🖒
Great video uncle Night Shift and thanks for the tip for using / not using Mission models. I have the same problems with the paint. Tamiya and real colors are the best ( for me ). Can’t wait till next friday......
im a mini painter not a more traditional models one like you but when im thinning my paints i do it enought so that it takes 2 or 3 coats to be completely full, building the colour makes it sturdier and more (alive?), also i dunno but i would use the brush for fine details like camouflage instead of the airbrush
Another great video. Love your work. In reference to cammo painting. I have found Gunze the best and Tamiya a close second. Both thinned with celulose or Mr Color Leveling thinners. I haven't tried the gloss varnish technique. Looking forward to!
The only issues I have had with MMP are with chipping using the hairspray technique. They do seem quite fragile (compared to something like Tamiya) and reactivated on me to a wet paint consistency instead of flaking away. So instead of chipping, it was like they turned into a kind of sludge when I went over them lightly with a brush damp with water. It's to the point where I think I can skip the hairspray and barely add any water to a brush and still chip the paint off for various effects. But I personally wouldn't stack layers of MMP if I wanted to chip any of them unless I also stacked layers of protective varnish for layers I'd want undamaged. Just because, again, I've had issues with the paint reactivating when I would have expected it to be cured. All of that being said with the understanding that the paint performance was fine out of the airbrush and what I was doing by trying to chip it was obviously beyond the basic intent of the paint. I realize that chipping paint away is inherently a process that undermines the manufactured purpose of the paint. I'd recommend MMP but with the disclaimer that they're not Tamiya or AK Real Color- nor are they Vallejo or Ammo. And any different style of paint will need its own unique method of application.
@@BrailleScale I had the same problem with MMP but a good modeler friend of mine told to apply a coat of varnish let it dry then apply the hairspray and the paint to be chipped and continue with the process and then you will have your chipped paint! I intent to do it, and probably I'll do avideo as many of us that are using MMP are having the same trouble with that technique from what I see.
@@salazartankworkshop97 yes, I think that's the best solution for this issue! I actually got a very cool distressing result using light colored MMP OD green paint over a dark base of Tamiya OD green paint. It didn't "chip", but instead kind of buffed away and looked very worn down and gave a good faded effect. Turned out for the best I think. I made sure to seal everything with a clear varnish before continuing the weathering because I was concerned that the MMP would continue to reactivate indefinitely. So far so good!
Late to the party on this video, but again, I love the VMS products Martin! You're right, that varnish is strangely like magic. I always tried to tell guys on SMCG about it. I sent Matt McDougal a bunch of product I used just to see if he would give any feedback about it because I wondered if it was me, or if the stuff was that good. I stopped trying after a while. They were always skeptical. Felt like everyone thought I was a VMS rep shilling for them. But, I'm a huge fan of what I've tried. I know they send and sponsor you with products, but they don't for me, they had me after I took a chance with them.
Dude, I have an H&S Ultra which is similar to your Evolution. I had similar troubles, but everything was solved changing the nozzle, which comes at 17€ circa!
Hi Martin, I have a suggestion for you. When you have such a good friend who is also a god with airbrush. Maybe you two together should make a video regarding airbrushes, different paints brands, how to use them, dilatation, pressure, thinners and etc. Would be very useful for us modellers no matter are we novice or veterans. Also at the end an advice what is the best buy. Thanks and cheers.
Loving it, really enjoying this series. 😉👍 AK real colour every time now for me...I have cleared out every other problem brand as I was soooooo tired of dealing with their individual problem issues and colour shades.
The issue with being unable to brush paint mission models paints over each other without reactivating the paint beneath can be solved by adding their Urethane drops to the paint (not to be confused with their thinner, it's a 3-part system).
Such a great result! You went over quite a bit in this video. Your airbrushing problems sound a lot like my own- at least until I started using Tamiya paints almost exclusively 😅 but I am looking forward to future tips and tricks as you will no doubt continue to improve. It is like a trickle down economy but airbrushing, the more you share and better you get- perhaps the better I can get from your teaching! 😂😁 And of course- Very much looking forward to the weathering and texture coming soon.
I have the same issues with Mission Model paints. I find it very hard to find a good ratio of thinner to get a smooth mix. Trying to paint feathered edges or thin coats ends up rough. Maybe I'm too used to lacquers.
great work as always... I only use water based acrylic (due to the smell of lacquer ones) but struggle with fine spraying. I think I will have to try thinning & gloss varnish technique. Can we request a full german grey build at some point??
I have problems painting camouflage with airbrush as well. I don't know if it is the compressor, which is so tiny it can only be used with gravity fed airbrushes, but if the paint isn't thinned to perfection, it either clogs in the airbrush or make spider webs. I model 1/72 so the camouflage is even tinier. Maybe I will do as you say and start to thin the camouflage paint with my equivalent to Klear.
Lower the psi can help too with camo fine line. I wouldnt call it a shortcut the hulls were painted and primed by the armour assembly plants not to perfectly match the final production. Just to give a ruff outline. the line just follows the natural wheel with tracks. DB panther were camod under the panniers but the rarely match up well to the hull or mudguards
Sorry for being one hour late! Last weekend was a switch from daylight saving to winter time here :)
All good
DUNKELGELB!
Isant the armor damage suposet to be colord separatly
I am not forgiving you!!!! :(
ok maybe... yes
Very strange results with Mission Models paints. Is this a chance that paints you’ve received was spoiled? Paints that I have works well. I am usually thin them 90 % paint 10 % thinner and 1 drop of poly. Sometimes 15 - 20 %. I've noticed that you thinned 20 drops of yellow + 5 drops of white with 15 drops of thinner. It is approximately 40 % of thinner. Here is my recent project painted with them without any issues: www.flickr.com/photos/max-rossomachin/albums/72157716598809998
The red crosses are an interesting story, they were a pretty late war thing. The germans figured out (or made up) that the allies were aiming at them by pointing their sights at the white outline of the cross. As these were often on the sides and rear, and around where the crew was situated, the crews got a bit anxious about the obvious white outline. To ease their minds, the white outlines were painted over with red paint. That's why the red sometimes can appear a bit rough compared to the rest of the markings. There is a late-war StuG III at Aberdeen Proving grounds in the US that has its paint still intact, albeit very dirty, but with a red overpainted cross on the rear.
I thought I knew a lot about German armor of WWII, but this is new, interesting info.👍
Funnily enough the same story is with the Americans and the White Star on their tanks being placed directly ontop of crew positions or ammo (namely the M4 Sherman series). German AT crews or tanks -after noticing the giant white star - would shoot the star or near it for a guaranteed kill/knockout so crews would paint over them in the field with a dark grey or black paint, making it a 'subdued' star or covering it with mud so it was harder for the enemy to see.
@@hex6970 I never understand why we continued with White Stars and lettering on our vehicles through the mid 70s. It’s not very tactical at all, go with black or grey lettering and Stars or dark Matt yellow like the U.S.M.C did.
@@Barabel22 While I cant answer why we used it for so long, it was phased out when the 3 Tone Camo was adopted. Though it most likely remained in service until 1975 as an easier way to identify friendly tanks as back then it wasnt as easy to keep track of whos who, I guess.
@@Barabel22 You don't put markings on a tank unless you want them to be seen. Knowing which of your tanks are which is more important than the enemy seeing some random writing that means nothing to them. If camoflauge is an issue you're going to have to do a lot more than just change the color of some writing on a 70 ton armored vehicle.
Last time i was this early Steiner was still gethering his troops for the counter attack
Go to where the Iron Crosses grow.
Fegelein, Fegelein, Fegelein!!!
Let me tell you something, Uncle Night Shift. You have no need to apologize for your airbrushing skills, nor for using Tamiya paint. I have over 60 years modeling experience (started in 1959) and I CAN NOT STAND Vallejo paints and their ilk. I know there are people that swear by them. When I use Vallejo, I swear; usually a lot! There is a reason that Tamiya is a premier company. When I use Tamiya I have no worries about thinning, whether it will stick, or whether I can mask it. It does all of those things well. Plus, it is very cost effective. You can mix any color; camouflage, whatever you need. There are multiple recipes all over the net. At my age, I don't need the headaches that go along with a paint that won't stick, won't cover, or pulls up when you have to mask it. No. You did just fine! See you guys next week.
I’m a model maker myself, I’m not amazing, but I’ve just restarted getting into it again as I did it as a very young teen, mind you I’m still a teen but I’m coming up 19 lol, I’ve just recently found your Channel and it’s amazing dude! The stuff I have learnt and the little tricks and tips you provided has actually helped so much
Damn you 23 now
Does it get any better
"Thirty eight Euros......Not terrible, not great". Dyatlov.
Actually more great than terrible :)
That made me laugh out loud hahaha nice reference
@@NightShiftScaleModels have you the name if this airbrush
@@troopeur it's a bd 180
@@bigbigmushy7338 i will order one :)
Uncle Nightshift and his THICC Jagdtiger back at it again.
Humoungous
Love the dotted camouflage it’s very German...
Night Shift will be moving his garden fence next, to incorporate his neighbour’s garden into his, after painting Hinterhaltstarnung 😱
I once painted it on a box used to store artwork at art-class at elementary school and the teacher was very pleased with how "abstract" it looked. Did not tell her it was SS camo :D
Oh boy don't say that infront of a 14 year old white girl
Where? I cant see it?
@@patrickc9726
Are you blind it’s right there!
I like how you show every product you use and explain as most as possible about it. Very informative and useful, that's why I love your videos.
I can’t wait to see the finished model it looks so good
Hi Martin! Very nice video!
...and this video is the reason why you're my favourite RUclips modeller. Showing where you've had problems, not just the best takes of where things went well.
Airbrush cammo is something I've always struggled with. Thank you for giving pointers where I can improve.
I love your models, I hope one day I might make one that will be as good as yours. Thanks for all the helpful tutorials
Thinning paint for airbrushing is secretly easy. You just have to control two variables: paint viscosity and air pressure. That's it, really. It's that easy.
The air pressure is the factor that forces the paint to atomise. The paint viscosity (thickness) is fighting the air pressure. If the paint viscosity wins that fight you get spluttering. To fix that you either increase air pressure or decrease viscosity by using more thinners. Finding the right balance is easy because there are only two variables in play. Usually between 1:1 and 2:1 of thinners to paint works with most paint brands.
Paint that figurine! Yes! Add them to ALL of your models!
After i watched your videos i have just been IN LOVE with german armor, and i think you do a PERFECT job with your models.
I love your channel because most modelers are very serious or don't talk or do much commentary at all. You are hilarious and I wish more modeling channels will follow your example.
I can't wait for every fridays because I can sit back and watch you build models, cause i'm too poor to get them all the time.
Nice progress on the camo scheme. I have used cut down bristles on a small brush for the disc camo before. Looking forward to seeing the weathering
You are the Bob Ross of tank modelling!
one of the few german paint jobs on youtube that doesnt look like a candy box, looking forward to the weathering
"Not perfect but good enough" 😂 Your "good enough" is the perfect for us mere mortals! Bow down to the armour god 🙇. Loving your work 👍
Ah night shift. My week isn't complete without your videos
Tbh the green camo pattern at 14:43 looks really good in my opinion, like almost just as good as the ambush camo
I see NIGHTSHIFT sitting in the mall doing dioramas while you wait. ... I want a stug 3 in winter scenery ... no problem. 10 minutes. :D
For decals you should try “solvaset walthers”, it’s perfect for any surface (smooth, rough, etc)
Your channel makes me realise I really miss this hobby!!!! Can't wait to get back one day
You are restoring this tank and I'm amazed you can make this accurate camouflage in color
Your videos both inspire me and make me realize how little my skills have progressed in 40 years of model building. Thanks :-)
Finally you released it! Thank god i cant really wait but now its here.
Another splendid video.
I didn't care much for Mission Models paints either. I couldn't get it to spray well for camo coats. It was kind of splattery along the edges, like it doesn't atomize well for fine work. I tried their reommendation for thinning and when that didn't work, I started experimenting... still no-go. I have stuck with Tamiya ever since since it has never let me down!
My experience as well, there were a few times where I felt like I got them dialed and everything looked perfect, but after taking a quick phone picture and looking at it, there was still a lot of grain. Some people have amazing results with them though!
I wish my best camo airbrushing results were as good as your worst. Very nice outcome and inspirational!
3 tone German camo.................yay! My favorite! Very much looking forward to you weathering this one!! :)
"My friends, it's uncle nightshift and tonight we build my first warhammer 40k tank" .... Oh wait....
Once again a delight, this one is looking gorgeous! Thanks uncle Night Shift, have a terrific weekend!
This is perfect! Right in time for my 1/16 jagdtiger from Trumpeter.
i think you did a really great job on that camo, i've been a little scared to try it with the airbrush but you just showed me that it can be done. thank you
The highlight of my Friday is watching these videos
Looks great, Martin! Yes, those Takom decals are a pain. I have to use many many coats of Walters Solvaset to get them to sit down properly.
night shift, a method to weather German steal road wheels like on this is ammo mig acrylic mud (thick layer) over the road wheels, then (whilst its still wet) brush with tap water aver it. the dried mud will then look realistic
Beautiful camouflage. I’m trying to work up the courage to tackle the 1/16 Jagdtiger; I spent 9 months all together on the 1/16 Panther and swore off lengthy projects for a good while, but now you have done gone and got me to thinking about that big sucker on the shelf..... Oh well, no pain, no gain. Love the channel! M
Congratulations Jason for a very fair review.
Cheers
Phil
MARTIN!!!!! Beautiful paint job, my man. Beautiful.
Thanks for your in-depth product analysis. Your builds are inspirational.
Seriously your work is a Masterpiece. Can't wait for the diorama.
Realistic and gorgeous job on the camo, thumbs up!
I must test that MMP one melting each other, weird stuff as i was layering one on another with my aibrush, diluted with MMP thinner. not sure why that would be such a difference using brush, these are water based paints thou. I also have to say that MMP was my favorite acrylic paint and most easy to use.
I have had unsatisfactory results using MMP, I don't think it has a strong adhesion like Tamiya for example. The issues I've had with it reactivating are when I try to do chipping effects with it. Lacquer paints like Tamiya seem to flake away and actually chip off leaving a hard edge after they're cured but the MMP seems to just turn back to wet paint and rub away. Even if it's had over 24 hours to dry. But they spray fine for me and I love them for base layers or if I want a kind of worn down, distressed effect as opposed to a hard edge chipping effect. I actually had a great effect of their faded OD paints sprayed over a Tamiya dark OD base. Some very cool, buffed down, distressed look. I think it's a great paint for certain things but certainly doesn't replace lacquer based options.
@@BrailleScale don't do hairspray chipping with vinyl acrylics like Mig, ak, vallejo, hataka etc..
@@ScaleHangar182 I don't. We were talking about Mission Model Paints which are not vinyl acrylic and are supposedly designed to work for the hairspray chipping method. I just have not had good results using them for the hairspray method. They work fine for me when I over thin them and increase the air pressure of my set up though.
Thanks for your videos buddy. I came back to the hobby after many years and your tips are very helpful, especially with painting, as I’m absolute begginer with it 👍
Canadian viewer. Really nice job. I tried Mission Model paints....not for me. I gave them to my brother...about 35 bottles. I went back to Tamiya and good old lacquer thinner....bullet proof combination.
i love it man. i usually do aircraft but thanks to you i have a massive shopping cart ready with a Tiger 2 and a bunch of products you use as well to see if i can make a tank look decent. cant wait.
"look at this amazing model I painstakingly constructed. Now watch me pull it apart."
Hi Night Shift, great video. I really like your straight and honest presentations; you're a great storyteller.
Now my own 2 cents of wisdom with regard to painting camo on tanks and aircraft. Since I'm fairly good at even paint them freehand in 1/72, I guess I don't suck painting camo as much as I do with other stuff ... :)
1. Best paint I ever tried out, and I tried them almost all: AK Real Colors.
2. Thin the paint, a lot! The thinner the needle, the more you have to thin. With a .2 needle in my H&S, about 60% thinner and 40% paint. But I'm never precise on the mixture; mix it directly in the airbrush's paint cup.
3. Lower the pressure to about 15 PSI.
4. Use the tool for fixing the nozzle so that only a bit of paint gets out.
5. Don't start right away spraying the model; I spray for about a minute on scrap plastic, for allowing the thinned paint to get "used" to the process, and myself to the paint. :)
6 Get as close to the model for spraying the contour lines of the camo. In a next step, open the nozzle a bit more and paint the inner areas.
7. Practice, play around with and adjust all these variables, practice more, ...
Cheers, and always happy modelling!
Great video, and next time I'm at Domino's (that's less than an hour driving) I'll sure try out that VMS clear coat.
Martin every single video inspired us to build more, I need to start my Nichimo kit
Fantastic work Martin! Love the look of the Jagdtiger so far.
what i do is get my lines on then pull the airbrush back a little ways and open it up a little more (trigger) and get a wider spray to fill in and it comes out wicked!
I don't like so match to building tanks but with your videos you push me to start handle with them great video
Congratulations on this project. Greetings from Argentina
All I can say is WOW. What a fantastic job over all.
Wonderful to watch as usual. Excited to see the weathering.
Lovely camouflage, fitting for this tank destroyer.
Wonderful model and a great achieved camo. It looks elegant.
Absolutely love your channel dude, I'm considering getting into this hobby because of you and Plasmo's videos.
Check out Panzermeister36 too. His work is excellent, and his tutorials are great!
Another great video from a great modeler!!! 👍👍👍
Looks terrific, from a fascinating period of the late war. I was looking at Andy's Hobbies video recently and saw that Tamiya have released a new range of late war german colours.
Yes, and the Tamiya late war green & dunkelgelb 2 are good, however many modellers dislike the new late war brown.
BTW, "Panzermeister36" did a very helpful YT video review about the new Tamiya paints for late war, and the new Tamiya paints for AFVs in North Afrrica. It's worth checking out. 🖒🖒
Great video uncle Night Shift and thanks for the tip for using / not using Mission models. I have the same problems with the paint. Tamiya and real colors are the best ( for me ).
Can’t wait till next friday......
*No problem for waiting a NS video, the pleasure is total! 😲🤩*
White vinegar works good for etching brass and copper parts to get a good tooth for the paint.
Oh I did the same Camo on a Hetzer, by brush, with Tamiya Paints...
Wasn't fun till I got to the dots.
im a mini painter not a more traditional models one like you but when im thinning my paints i do it enought so that it takes 2 or 3 coats to be completely full, building the colour makes it sturdier and more (alive?), also i dunno but i would use the brush for fine details like camouflage instead of the airbrush
I used the tamiya thinner with the mission models paint and it works ok
ever since i found your channel ive been keeping up to date as soon as they come out, love your work man ❤
Another great video. Love your work. In reference to cammo painting. I have found Gunze the best and Tamiya a close second. Both thinned with celulose or Mr Color Leveling thinners. I haven't tried the gloss varnish technique. Looking forward to!
I've never had problems with the mission models paints
The only issues I have had with MMP are with chipping using the hairspray technique. They do seem quite fragile (compared to something like Tamiya) and reactivated on me to a wet paint consistency instead of flaking away. So instead of chipping, it was like they turned into a kind of sludge when I went over them lightly with a brush damp with water. It's to the point where I think I can skip the hairspray and barely add any water to a brush and still chip the paint off for various effects. But I personally wouldn't stack layers of MMP if I wanted to chip any of them unless I also stacked layers of protective varnish for layers I'd want undamaged. Just because, again, I've had issues with the paint reactivating when I would have expected it to be cured. All of that being said with the understanding that the paint performance was fine out of the airbrush and what I was doing by trying to chip it was obviously beyond the basic intent of the paint. I realize that chipping paint away is inherently a process that undermines the manufactured purpose of the paint. I'd recommend MMP but with the disclaimer that they're not Tamiya or AK Real Color- nor are they Vallejo or Ammo. And any different style of paint will need its own unique method of application.
@@BrailleScale I had the same problem with MMP but a good modeler friend of mine told to apply a coat of varnish let it dry then apply the hairspray and the paint to be chipped and continue with the process and then you will have your chipped paint! I intent to do it, and probably I'll do avideo as many of us that are using MMP are having the same trouble with that technique from what I see.
@@salazartankworkshop97 yes, I think that's the best solution for this issue! I actually got a very cool distressing result using light colored MMP OD green paint over a dark base of Tamiya OD green paint. It didn't "chip", but instead kind of buffed away and looked very worn down and gave a good faded effect. Turned out for the best I think. I made sure to seal everything with a clear varnish before continuing the weathering because I was concerned that the MMP would continue to reactivate indefinitely. So far so good!
there is a Panzer IV or Stug at the NAAC at fort benning that has the Red cross if my memory is correct
Late to the party on this video, but again, I love the VMS products Martin! You're right, that varnish is strangely like magic. I always tried to tell guys on SMCG about it. I sent Matt McDougal a bunch of product I used just to see if he would give any feedback about it because I wondered if it was me, or if the stuff was that good. I stopped trying after a while. They were always skeptical. Felt like everyone thought I was a VMS rep shilling for them. But, I'm a huge fan of what I've tried. I know they send and sponsor you with products, but they don't for me, they had me after I took a chance with them.
Dude, I have an H&S Ultra which is similar to your Evolution.
I had similar troubles, but everything was solved changing the nozzle, which comes at 17€ circa!
It's probably worn out after all those years :) Getting the new Fengda was just slightly more expensive and you'll end up with an extra airbrush :)
Last time I was this early Japanese Zeros still ruled the skies. Nice video yet again Uncle Night Shift
“This is my favorite thing. I think about this all day.”
-Market Pliers
Hi Martin, I have a suggestion for you.
When you have such a good friend who is also a god with airbrush. Maybe you two together should make a video regarding airbrushes, different paints brands, how to use them, dilatation, pressure, thinners and etc.
Would be very useful for us modellers no matter are we novice or veterans.
Also at the end an advice what is the best buy.
Thanks and cheers.
Love your videos!
I like how you encounter difficulties and explain them. Makes me feel I'm not alone :)
Love your work! Keep it up and love how you work through and your commentary. I just bought the same airbrush from your commentary too. Best of luck!
Loving it, really enjoying this series. 😉👍
AK real colour every time now for me...I have cleared out every other problem brand as I was soooooo tired of dealing with their individual problem issues and colour shades.
lol, you read our devious little minds when you put in that disclaimer about washing the model in the video
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing your technique.
The issue with being unable to brush paint mission models paints over each other without reactivating the paint beneath can be solved by adding their Urethane drops to the paint (not to be confused with their thinner, it's a 3-part system).
Such a great result! You went over quite a bit in this video. Your airbrushing problems sound a lot like my own- at least until I started using Tamiya paints almost exclusively 😅 but I am looking forward to future tips and tricks as you will no doubt continue to improve. It is like a trickle down economy but airbrushing, the more you share and better you get- perhaps the better I can get from your teaching! 😂😁 And of course- Very much looking forward to the weathering and texture coming soon.
Your models are just awesome👍👍👍👍
It's Friday again, I'm gonna watch this video while painting my 1 72 jagdtiger 😁
I have the same issues with Mission Model paints. I find it very hard to find a good ratio of thinner to get a smooth mix. Trying to paint feathered edges or thin coats ends up rough. Maybe I'm too used to lacquers.
Really appreciate the longer videos!
great work as always... I only use water based acrylic (due to the smell of lacquer ones) but struggle with fine spraying. I think I will have to try thinning & gloss varnish technique. Can we request a full german grey build at some point??
I have problems painting camouflage with airbrush as well. I don't know if it is the compressor, which is so tiny it can only be used with gravity fed airbrushes, but if the paint isn't thinned to perfection, it either clogs in the airbrush or make spider webs. I model 1/72 so the camouflage is even tinier.
Maybe I will do as you say and start to thin the camouflage paint with my equivalent to Klear.
I can advise you Vallejo Flow improver!! If you airbrush water acrylics, this magic thing fix all problems you told. 👍
"I'm not very good at airbrushing" he says as he makes masterpieces wish I was that good
Lower the psi can help too with camo fine line. I wouldnt call it a shortcut the hulls were painted and primed by the armour assembly plants not to perfectly match the final production. Just to give a ruff outline. the line just follows the natural wheel with tracks. DB panther were camod under the panniers but the rarely match up well to the hull or mudguards
Been a great day thanks to you! Thanks👍👍👍
Looking MIGHTY SPIFFY There Buddy, thanks for Sharing Your Fun n God Bless All.
Excellent video. Can't wait till next week.
27min feels so short, I need more now! Lol looking good so far