2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L P0014 Diagnosis & Fix! [2.5L QR25DE]
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on diagnosing & troubleshooting & repairing a P0014 OBD Check Engine Code, as per the Nissan FSM outlines on a 2013-2018 5th gen. Nissan Altima.
Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Nissan Altima Factory Service Manual (EC):
www.nicoclub.c...
*Check out my How-To on getting 5th Gen. Altima on jackstands:
• 2013-2018 Nissan Altim...
Car in video is a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL.
Just got this code today at 62500 miles, I have to drive 3000 miles across the US in less than 3 weeks from now, and moneys tight, but you made this look simple and explained it really well so I’m gonna try to repair this on my own..! Thanks for the video, will be using it to repair my own 2013 Altima!
Also for more info… my symptoms on my vehicle are more extreme in terms of attempting to start the car up, I had to try 6-8 times before my car decided to start up finally, I seen that time does help though… also I had the car shut off on me too while driving, and ever since I had this car I’ve felt slight jolts and shakiness in the engine on lower gears too… otherwise when the car does drive, 95% of the time it drives just fine.
Sounds like you got about the same symptoms as this had, just more often/severe. Let me know how it goes replacing it!
How did it go ?
@@aldwaine7171 it was way harder then I thought trying to find decent access to the bolt holding the exhaust solenoid valve, I spent almost a good two hours on trying to remove it, but afterwards it went smoothly… car ran just fine since then so I think that was the issue.
From a 61 I mean my age, I want you to know that you are awesome and your demeanor let me understand that you know it too .A very scientifically basic way to explain it to us common mortals .Respect 😊😊😊
Thank you so much! I truly appreciate your comment 🙏🙏
Same I got this code and my Nissan Altima is at 155,000 running good still. As long as you replace the cvt fluid every 60,000 you should be good
Just knocked this out. Honestly is super impressive how you were able to record and work in that space while keeping the quality of the video top notch. Keep it up
I definitely appreciate the comment!! 🙏
Great video. You make it look easy. I hope my CVT will last this long so far 68000 miles and no issues. The fluid is changed every 35k I guess technically it is a dump and fill. I hope for the best.
Appreciate it! And thats good man….Thats all you can do!
If you cleaned the old one with brake clean, (the one you removed), it will fix the sticky solenoid, old oil makes the solenoid sticky and creates the codes.
I’m not opposed to that idea. But for the $20-$30 the new part costs, at that price it’s really not worth the gamble. And in this particular cars case….the oil is changed religiously since it was brand new every 5K on the money…and the original wasn’t compromised or sludged up or anything….so idk if cleaning it would have done much for this particular one.
Great tip, thanks!!!
Funny I did mine earlier with Maf spray and like new amazing
Why not just replace it
Cheap fix, brake clean was about $4!
Thank you for this amazing video! My altima has the same code (P0014) and just want to replace the vvt solenoid. Your video helps a lot!
I appreciate the comment, thank you 🙏
I get a code P1078 and supposedly it's a exaust solenoid valve. The 3 solenoids were just changed about a year and a half ago. It's a 2014 nissan altima 2.5. I need help on your opinion. And your videos are great and detailed explanation making it easy and budget.
It’s not the solenoid valve, it’s the camshaft position sensor, exhaust side. So camshaft position sensor & EVT control position sensor are the same thing/part.
The camshaft position sensors are on top of the motor, there are two of them. Exhaust side is passenger, intake side is driver. This is referring to the exhaust side, passenger.
In the Nissan FSM, it outlines checking the power circuit and ground first to the sensor for verification. If they check out, then the camshaft position sensor (exhaust side) needs to be replaced.
Very well done my friend. I have just had a similar situation with a 2014 altima only with P0011 and P0030 codes and CEL that I wnted to relate to you. Following the same debug procedure that you did her the indication was that the problem was probably with the INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE which would be the middle of the 3 VVT solenoids. I used the same under the car procedure in order to replace the solenoid with the same Dorman unit from amazon that you did. I will say that the EM engine mechanical service manual for 2014 seems to behave the above method with motor mount removal but after starting out with that method I realized it would not work and then remembered seeing a different youtube video by Nestor where he did the under the car technique. In my case I removed the solenoid before removing the electrical connector. The reason was because I did not have the manual dexterity to remove the connecter with my hand stuck up in that tight space. I was able to remove it with the removed solenoid hanging down. This is just a minor point but I thought I would mention it. Like in your case the solenoid I removed looked fine and tested fine so I cannot say with certainty that replacing it will solve the problem. I just did this job yesterday so I need to wait a while before I will know. I should mention that in my case the mileage was only 88K but also that the previous oil change intervals were well over 5K. My wife had bought the car used without the maintenance schedule document and I had no idea that the the car would have this type of sensitivity to the condition of the oil. The car does not consume oil so that the oil level was always high. The last oil change before the failure was about 18K so when I did some research I thought for sure the problem must have been due to the extended oil change interval. The first thing I did when I experienced a stall at idle with the car and a pending P0011 code was to change the oil and the problem seemed to go away for about 1000 miles (~ 1 month) before it came back with another pending code and rough running/hesitation. Then I noticed that in the oil change it was still 1/2 quart low so I added the final 1/2 quart and it seemed to run fine for about 1 week. Then it finally came back this a P0011 and P0030 CEL so I knew the oil change did not solve the problem. That's when I replaced the solenoid. However I did not change the oil after replacing the solenoid since at that point the oil was only about 1K old. For now it seems fine but I will need to ride over 1K at least before I can feel safe. I should say for some reason with my scan tool when I look at the status of the monitors for the current drive cycle the misfire monitor never seems too complete so this does cause me concern since I was not aware that the misfire monitor would have a complicated drive cycle that would make it had to complete. Naturally I am hoping for the best but I am wondering if anyone has any information that could help to understand how the misfire monitor might not complete for the current drive cycle even though no misfire codes are being generated. Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to include as much as I could in the hope of someone shedding light on my case.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I just actually did the middle intake solenoid on this car as well with the P0011. Pretty much exact same outcome as this video, however the intake solenoid was much less responsive than the exhaust one seen in this video. But i did record a whole video for the P0011 with the same process and approach as this video, I will have it edited and uploaded in the near future!
Thank you for the video. Helped me fix a friends car in short order.
Glad it helped 🙏
Awesome video BeeCee! Great video quality and detail. Keep up the good work brother!
Thank you! I definitely appreciate your comment 🙏🙏
FYI for anyone doing this repair..... The CEL circuit that the solenoids are on are on "non-continuous" monitors. Basically what I'm saying is that if you clear the code, it will take roughly 70+ miles before the circuit reads readiness. You can clear the error, and if your fix failed, you still won't get another light for 70+ miles as the circuit isn't ready to take a reading yet.
Just finished this and a oil change on my daughters car. Super tight space to remove the old one and it came out in four pieces.
Sheesh thats crazy it came out in 4 pieces
Welcome from Ukraine! Thank you so much! Very helpful video, fella)
Thank you! Appreciate your comment!
omg this was so helpful. There were so many videos supporting the engine and moving that aside but even though this is still hard; it is so much easier than me moving the engine 🤣 I have to take the middle one out, though. So wish me luck.
Lol I appreciate the comment! I think you should be fine though! With the right combo of 1/4 extensions, swivels, sockets, etc. shouldn’t have to move the motor or support anything!
Hey, I’m getting a p0171 code along with this code. Could you make a tutorial on replacing fuel injectors?
Hey I would be happy to if it ever comes up on this Altima. I just do videos on jobs on this car as they arise. So if I ever have to do an injector, I would definitely do a video on it. But, if you’re in the South Jersey area I can do it for you! Lol
Try using Hotshots FR3 and engine flush prior to oil changes as well.
fix my problem, thank you
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Just changed this thanks to your video ,do u think u can do a cvt fluid change how to video
Appreciate the comment!
And I have one of the most viewed CVT videos on YT!
ruclips.net/video/fOOtLmGvK2A/видео.htmlsi=gTQm4keT7X4qpdjj
My car is a 2013 ALTIMA 2.5. The engine error code I got is P052B. Someone said to replace the top one. I would like to ask you which one to replace? Thanks
The factory service manual outlines for that code are to first make sure oil/oil pressure are good, then check intake valve timing intermediate lock control solenoid valve, then check intake valve timing control solenoid valve, then check crankshaft sensor, then camshaft sensor
I changed the solenoid but I'm getting a knock still, fresh oil, new filter etc. Only P0014. Could it be the camshaft sprocket?
Here’s the link for the Nissan FSM. Section EC, page EC-212. These are all the steps that should be taken to resolve a P0014. I touched on the FSM breakdown briefly in the video as well, but here’s the link to the entire section with full troubleshooting process outlined by Nissan for the P0014:
www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm_download=Altima/2014/EC.pdf#page212
Well, thank you for your thoroughness. By chance, did you hear a slight rattle from that general vicinity upon lower speed acceleration? I mean you say that your car was running sluggish but, is there any one thing besides the code that gave it away?
No there was no noise from the solenoid or anything from the general area, or anywhere else. I really don’t think any noise issue is something you would experience with bad VVT valve(s). It just fails, it really isn’t a part that makes “sounds”. Car just ran a bit rougher (idle was affected a bit) and it didn’t start once after some driving, and shut off a couple times. That was it really. Its my girlfriend’s car so I didn’t personally experience some of it, but she noticed it for about 2 months before CEL came on. It just didn’t feel “normal”, but it wasn’t drastically affect the car’s performance and it was still getting driven about 500 miles a week throughout the couple months of the problem arising.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I am just surprised mine has not gone out yet. I had my third tranny installed about a month ago and it just does not seem to have the get up and go that it used to. No codes and I can see live date with my blue driver. I wished I knew how to interpret the timing advance. Because I think I would be able to diagnose with live data. Again thank you
@@dallaspilotcar9293 crazy you’ve done 3 transmissions. I woulda gave up after one replacement lol. But have you been experiencing the lag on since the newest tranny? If that is the case, I would be prone to thinking its trans related. And I’m not familiar with Blue Driver, so I’m not sure if you can pull the timing data from each individual sensor. But if you just read timing advance it should be around 10 degrees on start-up.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I may be able to read it on start up if blue driver works with just the key on, but to save battery the accessory will not stay on long. And yes, I pay my car off this month and I use it to work. I drive a pilot car for Oversized loads. I got my third tranny when i had 235K plus miles on my car, I take good car of it and have put so much money into my car in parts, etc, that I do not know when to stop. I purchased it with 4500 miles in 2016 for 16K and since then I know I have spent another 18K on it. SO, i really do not want another car payment right now.
@@dallaspilotcar9293 i hear that! Car payments are never fun. But sheesh that’s a lot in repairs lol. But good to see you keeping on it to keep it running!
Great video, thank you for sharing with us!
Thank you for the comment 🙏
A multiple misfire can also be your coils. Just had this issue.
A P0300 by itself would typically stem from coils or plugs. I was referring to the P0014 being specifically being partnered with a P0300, which could be a possibility and would typically be the VVT. Not a standalone P0300.
i have 2016 altima v4 with 100,000 km and i just got p0014 and p0017 codes plus minor evap leak. Not sure what is going on. But dose it make any sense for it breakdown with such low km's?
Just for reference, there is no “v4”. The car is a “i4”, standing for inline-4 cylinder. When you hear the terminology “v6” or “v8” etc., it’s referring to the V layout design. 4 cylinders are one straight inline head…hence the terminology “inline-4” or i4. There are also inline 6 cylinders, so they would be an “i6”, etc. Just wanted to shed some light on that for you for future reference.
As for the codes, I’m not familiar with the p0017 codes on these cars. However from a quick Google search it looks like it’s a camshaft correlation code, which could just be triggered by the P0014 VVT code.
And that is low mileage/km’s to throw that code, but really anything is possible when it comes to vehicles. but it could also be triggered by not being on top of the oil changes/dirty oil, etc
Perfect video!!!
Appreciate it! 🙏
Hey sir I got 2 codes that is P0776 - P0965 would you let me know what this is and what to do please. Thanks
They are both transmission trouble codes unfortunately. Both codes are referring to pressure control solenoid B…..which is in the transmission.
The solenoids are located on the valve body (inside of the transmission). If you remove the transmission pan, the bottom of the valve body is what you’ll see when the pan is removed. You can get an idea of what the valve body looks like here:
ucarpart.com/products/jf016e-valve-body-w-solenoids-31705-28x0b-for-nissan-altima-2-5l-2012-2016?currency=USD&variant=43858873712888&Google%20Shopping&stkn=1191dc9a40be&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7tThmkIcrkp7vRKXL7xoy64HmiBh5xeZnEaaC6hOkr1MQ2WVPRWxMBoC3YAQAvD_BwE
The solenoid needs to be replaced more than likely. You can drop the valve body and replace the solenoid, replace the valve body in its entirety with all new solenoids, or replace entire transmission.
This video helped me so much thank you!!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped 🙏🙏
Do they all need to be replaced? How do I know which one to replace
Check out @ 11:42. If you have the P0014 code, and only the P0014 code….its referring specifically to the one I replaced in the video, the exhaust valve timing solenoid. Some like to replace all 3 at the same time if one goes bad, which I’m not opposed too. Its really moreso preventive maintenance, with the thought that if one went bad, the others aren’t far behind. But you don’t necessarily have to do that, you can just replace the one that you’re actually getting the code for… and you can get away with just that, like I did.
If it was your car would you replace all 3 honestly I already did the vvt and the others are fine it's calling for a MAF now and I'm planning on picking her up in the morning
Gran video, pero podrás ayudarme con otra consulta? Que número de parte es la válvula? Veo mucha variedad en internet y no quiero cometer un error, saludos desde Durango
Very enlightening... Well done.
I appreciate your comment!
SIR you are legendary
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@TheOriginalBeeCee just a quick question, are 3 valve solenoid the same part ? Or the exhaust and Intake and the other all have different parts numbers?
@@ravenzero7222 all 3 are the same part 👍
I’m still getting hard starting after completing this I too had code p0014. Any help I can use! I can’t stand the hard starting
Could potentially be the crankshaft position sensor
@@TheOriginalBeeCeealready replaced them
“Them” ? Only one CRANKshaft sensor. Bottom of motor behind oil pan. There are two CAMshaft sensors on top of the motor.
Best video so far on this 💪💪💪 some other dude dropped his engine an all this other shit 😂
Hahaha definitely unnecessary lol. I appreciate it!!
Do you know the code for a stuck cylinder in a 2015 Nissan Altima? The mechanic wouldn't give it to me at the dealership!
A stuck cylinder? There is no code for a “stuck” cylinder that I’m aware of, and if a cylinder was stuck….the car wouldn’t run. Very awkward they wouldn’t provide you with a code though. You can really go anywhere and have the codes pulled for nothing or next to nothing to get the troublecode(s) from the car.
Wow great video 👏
Thanks I appreciate your comment!
Would it be better to drain my oil first
Naa it really doesn’t matter
Could a bad VVT solenoid cause a no start ? Please reply
Is there anyway you can make a 2018 altima transmission fluid flush outputing from the oil cooler? Ive seen some videos but they didnt show which hose they drained from. Also how to level the fluid using the overflow tank.
I actually have two CVT videos on my channel. My original video is really just a spill & fill with the fluid warmer flush:
ruclips.net/video/ZNbG0wT1kB0/видео.html
...the other newer one is the actual Factory Service Manual method outlined by Nissan:
ruclips.net/video/fOOtLmGvK2A/видео.html
..That's how I would suggest doing it. As I outlined in that video, in my opinion I would suggest spill & fills @ 30K, 60K, then @ 90K perform the FSM "flush" method I outlined in the newer video with filter replacement. Then spill & fill @ 120k, 150K, etc.
And both videos have the fluid adjustment via the overflow bolt included.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee ok thank you so much
@@Pandacuddless no problem 🙏
I have p0300,p0014 and p0017 where should I start any suggestions??
The P0017 is concerning. That code is typically thrown when the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are out of alignment. Could be something as simple as the Crankshaft position sensor. I’ve seen the crkshft code p0335 partnered with p0300, but never all 3 of those codes together.
You can do some testing with a multimeter to help do some diagnosing. You can test the VVT solenoid as i did in the video to check that off…you can also check the crankshaft position sensor with a multimeter as well, it should be 0 ohms between both terminals of the sensor. You can also do the same with the camshaft position sensors, they should both read the same @ 0 ohms.
Good job and nice info boss
Appreciate the comment!!
Great video,
Appreciate it! 🙏
Hey great video man !!! My Altima has this Poo14 code as well except i cannot get mine to start at all !! Is having this bad vvt solenoid a reason for the car to not start up at all ? Everything else seems to be working as far as battery and alternator ?
I appreciate it man! What happens when you press the start button though? Anything? Clicking, cranking, nothing, etc.?
Hey did you ever figure this out ?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee hey mine has same code and won’t start either but it tries hard to, replaced cam & crack shaft sensors
@@aldwaine7171 as long as your sure your battery is good and is roughly 12.4-12.5v when cold…then there’s a good chance the solenoid can be preventing you from starting if you have the code.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes, brand new battery thank you !!
So the poo14 is permanent and therefore if i have this issue, that i will not be able to clear this code?
No, the P0014 isn't a "permanent" code. As in, it's not a PDTC by definition...where clearing the code with a scanner won't work & only fixing the underlying problem will clear the code.
This Launch scanner I have sometimes lists codes as permanent codes when stored, even if the code isn't a "permanent code" by definition...as you see in the video where it listed the same P0014 code 3 times as pending/current/permanent. Launch's user manual defines "permanent DTC" as a code indicating there is a definite problem in one or more of the vehicles systems, and the CEL light is steady on. I probably should have noted that in the video.
But when I cleared the code @ 30:36 it cleared everything completely, as you can see there was no CEL (or any DTCs) after I started it up @ 31:08. The code reader completely cleared the P0014 code, and it never returned after resetting after repair.
Great video. I have 2016 Nissan Altima with 168k miles. When I start my car, it will run for 5 minutes then it will stall out. If I press on gas, the stalling stops. But I have to keep pressing on gas to prevent stalling. I replaced my battery, and air filter which did not help. Any ideas?
No check engine light?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Yes, the check engine light is on.
@@john-m8w have you ran the code? Is it this code I’m assuming?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I don’t have a scanner. I’m hesitant to take it to an Auto Zone, because I don’t want to risk getting stuck.
@@john-m8w definitely would be worth it to invest in one. You can get decent ones from Amazon for a good price. I have a couple different Launch scanners which can be found on Amazon, and they’re good for a good price.
You need data to figure out whats going on. Otherwise, we are just shooting shots in the dark. guessing is never how you want to approach diagnosing auto issues, you’ll just be throwing parts at it. You need to get that code…I’m sure it’s related and will steer you in the right direction. If you get me the code I could help furthering shed some light.
Which one is bank 1
www.google.com/gasearch?q=what%20is%20bank%201&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5
Check that out
Will this stop my car from getting power to accelerate
Definitely a possible symptom. This car was doing that, but it was intermittently
Which one is for p0011
2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L P0011 Diagnosis & Fix! [2.5L QR25DE]
ruclips.net/video/fc7nq9cw1yM/видео.html
Surging? I have 241k miles on my 2016 third tranny. But over all of this time i have had po300 and if memory serves me right i have had that code before. No codes at this point. Never have i ever replaced the VVT valves . What do you mean rough?
Is that part the same for the other 2 solenoids?
Yessssir
No it's not
@@escapingthematrix3 please, don’t comment on my video with incorrect information. All the 3 are exactly the same. Don’t believe me? Here’s your proof. Aside from visually seeing they are clearly the same……..Only one part # listed for VVT Solenoids for this car. Not one part for each individual solenoid…
From Nissan, one solenoid:
www.coulterpartscenter.com/search?search_str=Variable+solenoid
Rockauto:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2014,altima,2.5l+l4,3305930,engine,variable+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910
Advance:
shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?searchTerm=vvt+solenoid&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1
(You might have to insert year/make/model for those links to reflect correctly)
…on the part listing on Advance, even says “3 required” under the part, indicating all 3 are indeed the same part.
✌️
I have a 2014 Altima base 2.5 and my rpm tachometer is fluctuating under 55mph what can cause this? I don't have any lights on no codes either. any clue? when it is fluctuating car slows and then goes on..but again its under 55mph. please help??
Hello, sorry to hear about your issue. Honestly, its kind of hard to say without actually evaluating the vehicle, as there a quite a few causes to those symptoms. Really the car should be looked over under the hood, as well as have scanner hooked up to read live data to see if anything looks off.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee there are no codes coming up. Never has been any codes. I had dealership check it several times and nothing. They did reprogram the ECM and TCM but again never any codes popped up. I just want to see what's causing it. I'm getting my MAF sensor cleaned tomorrow and have a guy check my throttle to see if it's dirty. Do you know possibly what I can try through process of elimination??? Thanks
@@teresateresa6342 i’m not referring to the car being scanned for error codes (check engine light).
Higher end OBDII automotive scanners can read/scan live data. So while the car is running, the scanner would be capable of reading live data from most-if not all of the cars sensors, sometimes pin-pointing issues that haven’t trigged the “check engine light”….that is of course….if the individual reading the live data knows what they’re looking at. I would hope the dealer would have done this, and also know what they’re looking at…but unfortunately thats not always the case.
For instance, a MAF could cause such symptoms as your experiencing, but i would be curious to see on a live data reading what the calculated engine load, AFR, long term & short fuel trim, & MAF G/S is. These readings would help determine if it is indeed the MAF or not.
But your issue could be stemming from a lot of issues, MAF, mis-firing, or even the CVT transmission…which I don’t want to jinx it for you, but from what I’ve seen most of the time a jumpy tach on these cars is a result of CVT issues. Even the tach in the cluster itself could be bad (although I highly doubt that is your issue).
The problem is there are quite a few possibilities…and trying to rule it out by process of elimination…which would really involve you potentially spending money on parts you may not need, hoping it fixes something by the process of elimination is never the way. That can get pricey fast.
It could even be a bad ground or one of the battery sensors. I would have that all cleaned up well to at least rule that out…and that should be free basically. I wish I had more insight for you, but with a issue like this there is a good variety of potential causes, and all someone can do without properly diagnosing the issue is just speculate. I wish it was a more cut & dry issue where I could say “its this”, but with what you’re experiencing the car should be really evaluated by someone who knows what they’re looking at. Again, I would hope the dealer you went to would have been capable of this, but something is obviously wrong with the car and they weren’t able to figure it out. That doesn’t mean someone else couldn’t. I would maybe even suggest taking it to another Nissan dealer different from the one you went too.
I say ensure all the ground wires to the battery and all that is removed and cleaned super well, make sure all grounds look clean and good, sand them and reinstall, and do the same for the current sensor and big positive fuse block on the battery. Try that first and if that doesn’t resolve it, I would suggest another dealer pull live data.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks for the information. I did go to another dealership and both kept looking at me like I was naive to my car. They both were saying we can't find anything wrong. I had even emailed the regional service manager and nothing happened. So today I'm driving home and my car acts like it wants to stall out. It's never done that. Now I'm terrified. I used to go to Nissan dealership every few weeks saying my rpm tachometer is still doing same thing. Each time they send me away. No codes popping up. I never had check engine light nothing. So now I'm like what's wrong with my car??. It's out of warranty for the cvt since earlier this year. But car always drove fine. I had the required fluids.. cvt,fuel and whatever they say changed by Nissan 2 years ago. I don't travel much basically only drive to work and around town. I had it maintained by Nissan since I purchased new in 2014. I'm take by a shop tomorrow so hopefully he can see what's now causing hesitation which is new starting today. 🤔
@@teresateresa6342 well damn sorry to hear! Well good luck……let me know what you find out!
Do you have a part number ?
@ 21:45
Thanks bro just ordered it about to put it in this week
@@DevDev-mv6ht 🙏🙏
Where are you located?
NJ
Altimas are junk..wish I never bought mine
Same here
Facts I’m pissed right now
Lost me at calling it a 1 4th drive..lol..
images.app.goo.gl/Vn6x5o5iazLBqzoS6
Off subject but is it possible to fix p014 c and d, p015a and b on my own with a lift?
I do it all from the ground so yea you can definitely do most anything with a lift.