I have 2 1993 CPI S10 4-doors and have been fighting the same issue in one of them. Idles at 900RPMs and began randomly stalling a few days ago. I had the distributor and coil replaced at the shop back in winter along with the fuel pump for the same reason. Yesterday, I cleaned the ICV, changed the MAP sensor, cleaned and resealed the intake pipe with the thermal sensor, cleaned and resealed the PCV valve - still stalling. Didn’t know about the ICM being inside the distributor (bet the guys at the shop didn’t use thermal paste on the new distributor). Tomorrow gonna get me some thermal paste for it, thx to your video.) Fingers crossed - hope it works.)
Hi You r my Hero. I have the same truck with all the same issues, all the way down to the rattling leaf, but mine was a cheese wrapper. Almost wrecked thought a Rattlesnake had loaded up. You have helped me tremendously but I started with the part under rotor bug . It ran good but the first bump I hit it would start missing and eventually die, that was a few months ago, so here we are again. Just wanted to say thanks. John Punneo
I am glad this has helped you. I didn't start at the distributor because I had just replaced the whole assembly a couple of months before. This little truck drives me crazy but it so much fun to drive. I hope you can figure out your gremlin, sometimes you end up in circles before you finally find what has been there the whole time. Good luck!
I had the same issue with my 91, 4.3, replaced icm, distributor, my high idle was a tps out of spec, needed loosened and turned a fiddly bit., made it idle down and not run like poopoo, now I still get a 12 code and sounds like i have 2 step when I get on it. So then I was told the spark control module. I changed that. Now it runs like a dream again.... same deal though, went from no codes to boom boom boom, it all went at once.
Try squirting starting fluid to isolate fuel injection/control module. then check for spark to isolate distributer/wires coil. I found that the 3 wires to oil pressure sender are cable-tied tightly to base of sender and chafe thru ....thereby shorting to themselves/ground etc. Factory practice which is subtle and not obvious .... usually found after spending many $$$$ .
The computers in these don’t learn anything. They are about the same level as a calculator. They have one set program. Didn’t have self learning back in the 80s. It’s settings are permanent
Your frustration is noted. I have a 1987 gmc 3500. 350 TBI. First bought it the thing ran great. Used it to plow. It's a mini dump with duals on the rear axle. Spent 2800 on it to buy. Over the next year I dropped over 5000 for brakes and tires then wheel seals. Then the trans went. Another 3000 there. Got her going. Then the plow shit the bed. Dropped another 2000 on the plow pump. Everything is fabulous. Wrong. Manifolds leaks. So I drop new motor mounts in Then a entire new exhaust. I pick her up after having in for inspection. They say she ran rough so installed new injection wires. I drove it all proud ready for winter this year. I shut it off run in for coffee at a local gas station and I can't get her to start. Dumps fuel but will not fire. I kill the battery needed jump. Thought maybe the gas. Topped her off. Today left me sit again. What in the world is it. Put in a map unit. Installed a new TPI. Wires and plugs new. I just don't get it. I've spent so much on this truck I can't even sell it. I got atleast 15,000 in repairs over 6 years on it.
If your injector is not firing gas one day and then works fine the next. HALL EFFECT SWITCH in the distributor. Pull distributor again and replace ICM and Hall Effect switch in distributor. Cap and rotor isn’t the problem. Make sure you time the engine with the ignition system grounded with a paper clip too I went through this a few years ago. Truck would start and run one day and then refuse to run the next. When it wouldn’t start it was because injector wasn’t firing gas. Tried everything and nothing worked. When I finally learned about the Hall effect switch I changed it. Boom problem fixed. Edit: woops I thought you had the 2.5 4 cylinder. I dunno if the v6 had same issues or not
Like the way you explain. Give me a hello if you get a chance. I have that problem right now. Just saw your video. Loved it. Thanks; i think you're cool. Keep on keeping on.
I wasn't getting but 2.8 volts to my fuel relay, that receives its full 12 volts from the oil pressure switch after 14-16 pounds of pressure, which is enough pressure to send voltage to the fuel relay while cranking. I replaced the oil pressure switch, problem solved, and truck ran guooood, but I found out also, I had a bad end on one of my fuse-links, that had a short causing low voltage also at times killing the engine.
I admire you to because you work on your own vehicle. That's very good. It's hard to find a woman that wants to work on their vehicle. Keep going what you're doing
I love it lol brings back memories, keep your cool don't, get frustrated and and it will all come together in the end. That's a great money saving hobby right there lol 😆
Can you send me a close up pic of the vacuum hook up s around the throttle body , I had my 2*8 worked on and I do believe the mech hooked two up wrong , I have issues with slowing down and motor is quitting
If you don’t count regular maintenance and the extra parts I buy when I find them, rough guess I’m probably sitting around $2500. I only paid $500 for the truck as a runner. The timing chain cover, water pump, distributor, and fuel system were my high dollar parts. The rest was nickel and dime and better then oem parts. All in all it is a fun project.
Gotta keep doing basic trouble shoting. Gas, spark, electric connections. Last thing you did. Old coils will start a car but will fail when they warm up. Same as crank sensors ect.
Maybe thets the problem on my 93 Chevy S10 5speed everytime I turn it on I have to press the pedal gas for a min to stay on but sometimes dies already did a tune up
That’s what I had to do with this. Figures since it had a new dizzy everything would have been good there. Guess not in this case. Even though parts are new I need to remind myself to go back to the basics. 🙄
So my s10 runs pretty well, but if you try to start it after sitting for 30 mins to an hour it’s a fight to keep it running for about 30 seconds. Then got the most part it smoothes out. It also idles really high at random times, making it annoying to shift. Anyone got any ideas where to start fixing it? 1993 s10 2.8L 2wd
I would check for a vacuum leak to start then move to checking for leaks around the throttle body and intake. One of those lines may have cracked or one of the gaskets may have failed. Quick easy semi inexpensive fixes. 🤞🏻 If you can’t find any issues there, keep moving down the list of probabilities. Just hope it wasn’t the same as I experienced with a cracked head. 🤦🏼♀️
I have a 84 s10 2.8 carb truck starts right up when in park I can rev it all I want as soon as I put it in drive it lose power and dies if you step on the gas I’ve change fuel pump spark plug cables distributor idk what to check next
What did u say was wrong with it it was hard to hear I have a 2.8 V6 1986 s10 and if u stop anywhere it'll stop but it will will always start right back up
Happy that you have it running. Please keep us updated on how it’s working!! Thanks!
Thanks! 🙂 I didn’t expect it to be something that easy. So far it has been running well the few short trips I have taken it.
I have 2 1993 CPI S10 4-doors and have been fighting the same issue in one of them.
Idles at 900RPMs and began randomly stalling a few days ago.
I had the distributor and coil replaced at the shop back in winter along with the fuel pump for the same reason.
Yesterday, I cleaned the ICV, changed the MAP sensor, cleaned and resealed the intake pipe with the thermal sensor, cleaned and resealed the PCV valve - still stalling.
Didn’t know about the ICM being inside the distributor (bet the guys at the shop didn’t use thermal paste on the new distributor). Tomorrow gonna get me some thermal paste for it, thx to your video.)
Fingers crossed - hope it works.)
Hi
You r my Hero. I have the same truck with all the same issues, all the way down to the rattling leaf, but mine was a cheese wrapper. Almost wrecked thought a Rattlesnake had loaded up. You have helped me tremendously but I started with the part under rotor bug . It ran good but the first bump I hit it would start missing and eventually die, that was a few months ago, so here we are again.
Just wanted to say thanks.
John Punneo
I am glad this has helped you. I didn't start at the distributor because I had just replaced the whole assembly a couple of months before. This little truck drives me crazy but it so much fun to drive. I hope you can figure out your gremlin, sometimes you end up in circles before you finally find what has been there the whole time. Good luck!
I found your video really helpful, thank you for all your info.
Keep posting more videos you got my attention 👏🏽
I had the same issue with my 91, 4.3, replaced icm, distributor, my high idle was a tps out of spec, needed loosened and turned a fiddly bit., made it idle down and not run like poopoo, now I still get a 12 code and sounds like i have 2 step when I get on it. So then I was told the spark control module. I changed that. Now it runs like a dream again.... same deal though, went from no codes to boom boom boom, it all went at once.
Hell yeah!!! Congrats!!!
Thanks! 🙂 Just took me a bit to figure it out. Sometimes you just have to step away.
So your say the rotor cap was the problem?? I have a 1986 2.8 doing the same thing
Happy you got her running
Thanks! 🙂 Me too especially the way these fuel prices are looking.
Try squirting starting fluid to isolate fuel injection/control module. then check for spark to isolate distributer/wires coil. I found that the 3 wires to oil pressure sender are cable-tied tightly to base of sender and chafe thru ....thereby shorting to themselves/ground etc. Factory practice which is subtle and not obvious .... usually found after spending many $$$$ .
I’m really glad you got it start and run again. It may take some time for the new computer to learn everything before it can settle the engine down.
The computers in these don’t learn anything. They are about the same level as a calculator. They have one set program. Didn’t have self learning back in the 80s. It’s settings are permanent
Your frustration is noted. I have a 1987 gmc 3500. 350 TBI. First bought it the thing ran great. Used it to plow. It's a mini dump with duals on the rear axle. Spent 2800 on it to buy. Over the next year I dropped over 5000 for brakes and tires then wheel seals. Then the trans went. Another 3000 there. Got her going. Then the plow shit the bed. Dropped another 2000 on the plow pump. Everything is fabulous. Wrong. Manifolds leaks. So I drop new motor mounts in Then a entire new exhaust. I pick her up after having in for inspection. They say she ran rough so installed new injection wires. I drove it all proud ready for winter this year. I shut it off run in for coffee at a local gas station and I can't get her to start. Dumps fuel but will not fire. I kill the battery needed jump. Thought maybe the gas. Topped her off. Today left me sit again. What in the world is it. Put in a map unit. Installed a new TPI. Wires and plugs new. I just don't get it. I've spent so much on this truck I can't even sell it. I got atleast 15,000 in repairs over 6 years on it.
If your injector is not firing gas one day and then works fine the next. HALL EFFECT SWITCH in the distributor. Pull distributor again and replace ICM and Hall Effect switch in distributor. Cap and rotor isn’t the problem. Make sure you time the engine with the ignition system grounded with a paper clip too
I went through this a few years ago. Truck would start and run one day and then refuse to run the next. When it wouldn’t start it was because injector wasn’t firing gas. Tried everything and nothing worked. When I finally learned about the Hall effect switch I changed it. Boom problem fixed.
Edit: woops I thought you had the 2.5 4 cylinder. I dunno if the v6 had same issues or not
I miss my 91 S10.
I really like your channel your so smart.
Like the way you explain. Give me a hello if you get a chance. I have that problem right now. Just saw your video. Loved it. Thanks; i think you're cool. Keep on keeping on.
I wasn't getting but 2.8 volts to my fuel relay, that receives its full 12 volts from the oil pressure switch after 14-16 pounds of pressure, which is enough pressure to send voltage to the fuel relay while cranking. I replaced the oil pressure switch, problem solved, and truck ran guooood, but I found out also, I had a bad end on one of my fuse-links, that had a short causing low voltage also at times killing the engine.
I really enjoyed your work in “The Connors”, sorry about its cancellation.
I admire you to because you work on your own vehicle. That's very good. It's hard to find a woman that wants to work on their vehicle. Keep going what you're doing
I appreciate that!
I love it lol brings back memories, keep your cool don't, get frustrated and and it will all come together in the end. That's a great money saving hobby right there lol 😆
It does save me money by not having money for my other hobbies that are just expensive if not more expensive. 🤣
@@oldirongirl lol I mean you doing it versus paying a mechanic doing it.
Can you send me a close up pic of the vacuum hook up s around the throttle body , I had my 2*8 worked on and I do believe the mech hooked two up wrong , I have issues with slowing down and motor is quitting
So I bet it's the intention Coil. Check to see how strong the spark is.
Great video, how much money have you put into it? Mine just recently started losing power for no reason.
If you don’t count regular maintenance and the extra parts I buy when I find them, rough guess I’m probably sitting around $2500. I only paid $500 for the truck as a runner. The timing chain cover, water pump, distributor, and fuel system were my high dollar parts. The rest was nickel and dime and better then oem parts. All in all it is a fun project.
Gotta keep doing basic trouble shoting. Gas, spark, electric connections. Last thing you did. Old coils will start a car but will fail when they warm up. Same as crank sensors ect.
Check your egr on the valve cover
Let it be running I'm sure it's your Cadillac converter and it two oxygen sensors should fix the no power
Maybe thets the problem on my 93 Chevy S10 5speed everytime I turn it on I have to press the pedal gas for a min to stay on but sometimes dies already did a tune up
That’s what I had to do with this. Figures since it had a new dizzy everything would have been good there. Guess not in this case. Even though parts are new I need to remind myself to go back to the basics. 🙄
I got 93 s10 with 4.3 I change the wires and spark plugs & starting backfiring
I've got 93 2.5 with throttle body, I think. Starting to backfire when starting, cold or hot???
What is that piece that had the blades on it and where is it located 😊
It is the ignition control module. It is located on your distributor under the cap.
For me I found it was my oil pressure switch
i tougth that only one injector was supposted to be working when a truck is running on park,
U got bulldog?
So my s10 runs pretty well, but if you try to start it after sitting for 30 mins to an hour it’s a fight to keep it running for about 30 seconds. Then got the most part it smoothes out. It also idles really high at random times, making it annoying to shift. Anyone got any ideas where to start fixing it?
1993 s10 2.8L 2wd
I would check for a vacuum leak to start then move to checking for leaks around the throttle body and intake. One of those lines may have cracked or one of the gaskets may have failed. Quick easy semi inexpensive fixes. 🤞🏻 If you can’t find any issues there, keep moving down the list of probabilities. Just hope it wasn’t the same as I experienced with a cracked head. 🤦🏼♀️
@@oldirongirl thanks, and gosh I hope it’s not a cracked head 😅
I have a 84 s10 2.8 carb truck starts right up when in park I can rev it all I want as soon as I put it in drive it lose power and dies if you step on the gas I’ve change fuel pump spark plug cables distributor idk what to check next
I have same year engine with same issue I think the secondary on the carb is clogged
What did u say was wrong with it it was hard to hear I have a 2.8 V6 1986 s10 and if u stop anywhere it'll stop but it will will always start right back up
It was the ignition control module in the distributor. 👍🏻
Thanks anyway.
Incoherent Response
why dont you just buy a ford ranger