I have a 2001 chevy blazer and it also shuts down if the temperature outside is hot or the engine has been running for about an hour. I cannot figure out what it is! Can you explain more on how you made that wire? Thanks.
+Chinou Vwj - I made the " Wire " as an experiment " 10 Gauge " regular Hook Up Wire..... We also still have issues.... Still shutting down :((((((..... I don't know if it's taking too much juice.... If we go over 70 MPH, the Car starts to " hesitate " and wants to die..... Also, the Battery Indicator also light up. But if we slow down..... anything under 60 MPH.... We were able to drive for about an Hour. YUP, STRANGE and we are pulling our hair out.... Still happening as we speak :(((. NOTE: As long my Dad keep it under 60 MPH, it doesn't die.
+Chinou Vwj - Me and my Dad going to try something this weekend... Here is what you can do.... LOOK AT ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES.... I am gearing that is the " Culprit "..... I think when the Car / Trucks get HOT, the " Vacuum Lines " get " Soft ", this is where it leads to " BOGGING " down, until it's cool again. So............. Replace your Vacuum Lines.... Recently, I check them and it's really " SOFT ", which I am gearing towards it! I THINK IT'S THE VACUUM LINES :))))))))))))) NOTE: I will make an UPDATE / NEW VIDEO this weekend. PLEASE let me know if you find something new so I can add that in the Video to share :)
+Chinou Vwj - History what I have changed / replaced and still shut down: ALL NEW PARTS: Ignition Control Module + Ignition Coil + Temperature Sensor + Crank Case Sensor + New Cap / Distributor + New Spark Plugs + New EGR + New IACV + New Alternator. NOTHING WORKS !!! Only thing I could think of now is........... VACUUM LINES !!!
+Chinou Vwj - I love my Dad's Blazer.... It's so easy to work with... I am NEVER gonna let my Dad sell his, LOL. It has to be something simple.... I am going to take ALL DAY Sunday to work on it.... I will find out soon, LOL. But the " CULPRIT " I think it's the VACUUM LINE! I am going to replaced ALL THE VACUUM LINES THIS WEEKEND!
My 02' Blazer ZR2 drove fine to the store a couple miles down the road, I got there & killed it & it wouldn't restart! I towed it to the shop & $700 later. They found that my Coil had a tiny crack & it was grounding out. Luckily the mechanic knew about this issue & found it immediately. Saving me hundreds in diagnostic fees! The $700 fee got me a new Distributor w/ cap, Rotor, wires, plugs, ECM & Coil. Plus an oil change & right upper control arm while I had it in.
Going to try your tip later for the vacuum lines. I see one of my lines that is deteriorating and flat instead of open. Imagine pinching a straw in the middle. That’s what my line looks like
Ok here is a tip the ignition coil have a insulation that with time goes bad and star liking hig spark voltage to mass or body parts this will reduce voltages to spark plugs shutdown the engine. The reason why is happens on hot days is becouse the insulation is made whit a material similar to tar and after a fiew years loose the resistance to heat . Also the cable to if got any licks of sparks it will do the same And to end the picup coil also can be bad Electric parts over the years working on hig voltages and heat go bad
seems like the clicking is from your electrical wire not having enough insulation, causing arcing which is that click youre hearing. the arcing will cause your car to overheat. the reason the spark plug wires look fat is because it's got a LOT of insulation. also, you don't need a large gauge wire because all you're sending is enough electricity to cause a spark. that's why it's throwing the battery light.
looking through all these comments and still no one has a guaranteed fix. As if everyone’s stalling is happening for different reasons. I am 2nd owner of a 98 blazer with 102,750 miles that I purchased 2 weeks ago. Currently at 103k and I have stalled almost 30 times. Every mile and a half on the highway it stalls. I bought the car 2 hours away from home and it made it back fine with cold AC. Couple days after purchase is when the stalling started at 55-70mph. I’ve replaced alternator, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and new spark plug wires and the new coil wire you are talking about. Car worked perfect in town for the weekend then Monday morning went back to stalling. This shit is frustrating
i have 1999 GMC my truck has being doing the same thing as the video. It is like what ever is getting to hot its not alowing my fuel pump to stay on and my battery lights flashes sometimes then it dies and wont crank back up for a while. i have replaced plugs,plug wires,dist.cap,rotary pin,fuel pump,and fuel filter. Now i am out of ideas..
YOU WILL NEVER BELIEVE IT !!! The CULPRIT for this car was = The Ignition " Module " *Wire* that goes to the Hub Cap. NOTE: Did you check your Ignition Module + Ignition Coil ???
NOTE: In this S10.... When it gets HOT, the Battery Light also Blinked as well. I solved with the Spark Plug Wire + Ignition Control Module replacement.
@@JodBronson it didn’t work but the problem is that like in 45 minutes it starts like running out of fuel until it shuts off then it doesn’t turn on again until the next day but now with the new ignition it feels better thx
@@trendstrends3770 - If you haven't change the your cables (Plug Wires). It maybe a good time to do it. If not enough juice, it will give you problems again. Ignition Plug Cables are cheap and can save lots of headaches !!!
If you don't have enough voltage or amperage in your battery your computer system will not work right also on coils sometimes they don't work at all or sometimes a coil will work okay until it starts to get hot and then the coil will quit working these are some ideas to help anyone actually in my opinion a coil and new wires are part of a tune-up
Well, we bought Brand New Battery over and over again..... That was not the case. It was the " Ignition Spark Plug " that was the Culprit. After we changed it, it's still doing great now. Although at the time, it was the most " Headaches " thing I've ever experienced since my Dad bought it.
@@bertoguadarrama1 - The SHORT Wire that come from " Ignition Module " that does into the " Rotor Cap ". That is the Culprit and NO ONE in the world knows that except me. Change that and you will be good to go !!!
My truck had cut off while driving a couple times before then I drove home from work the other day making some really bad noises and it I shut it off when I got home and now when I crank it it’ll crank make loud squealing bump grind and shut right off
It could be a few things... But here is where you can start easily. Take the " Belt " off completely. #1 - Now crank the Engine and see if it start, let it run for about 30 seconds to a minute to make sure..... This will tell you a lot of things..., now you know it starts AOK. #2 - Next.... Shut the Engine down and let it cool. #3 - Spin the Alternator by hand and see if you hear " Grinding " noise and if you do, that is the Culprit. If that is AOK, then Alternator is good. #4 - Spin the AC Clutch by hand and see if it moves... If it's HARD to move, then the AC Clutch is " Seized ". If that is AOK, then the AC Clutch is Good. (NOTE: This could the the problem) #5 - Spin the Fan / Water Pump and see if you hear " Grinding " noise. If you do, that maybe the culprit. NOTE: This is rare. NOTE: Make sure your BELT is AOK and TRY those steps above!
+Chinou Vwj - So far, we changed all the " Vacuum Tubes " and change the " Wire " I've made, since it sucks too much Power. By then, it was dark.... It was cool, so we drove up and down the street..., wasn't able to go on the Highway to test it :((.... It's not shutting down yet.... NOTE: Double check on your Vacuum Lines. I found a " Line " that was really soft due to time.... Also, check the " CHECK VALVE ". There are 2 " little " Check Valve on them. Also, it's the SAME LINE that control your 4 Wheel Drive Switch.... Start FROM ...... The connector that close to your PCV Valve, RIGHT hand side of your Air Intake / Engine..... From that, replace or check " ALL " of those Vacuum Tube.... Once the Heat gets to it.... It gets really " soft " and " collapsed " on its own.
+Chinou Vwj - 😊😊😊 Update..... So far since we change the Wire + Re-Route the Vacuum Tubes.... It's working AOK 😊😊😊!!! We TEST DROVE it on the High Way over 70 MPH and the Engine is NOT buckling or hesitating. My Dad drove the whole week and it's not shutting down yet. I might make a Video of it especially on the Vacuum Tubes...... I think the Transmission Fumes plugging the " One Way Valve " and I think that is the caused of it.... I found bunches of " Trans Fluid " in the Vacuum Lines... Check yours too see if that is the case.... I also " blew out " the One-Way Valve in the Lines to make sure it's not clogging.
+Chinou Vwj - On your Vacuum Lines.... The ones that connected to your PCV Valve... Off of the Engine itself.... There is a " Breather " there. From there, you will see bunch of 1/4" Black Soft Hose Lines.... Those are your Vacuum Lines... Follow those and you will see a " Once Way Valve "... I found 2 of them.... They are about 3/4" big and look like a " Small Lawn Mower Gas Filters "... That is your " One Way Valve ". NOTE: On mine, I actually " RE-ROUTE " and " DESIGN " them my way..... Hmmmmmm.... I will make a Video for it I guess, LOL
+Chinou Vwj - Here, this is what they look like.... I found 2 of them.... One have has a splitter, the second one doesn't. Here is the Link for the splitter kind: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-one-way-vacuum-check-valve-74808/18480609-P
I have a 2001 chevy blazer and it also shuts down if the temperature outside is hot or the engine has been running for about an hour. I cannot figure out what it is! Can you explain more on how you made that wire? Thanks.
+Chinou Vwj - I made the " Wire " as an experiment " 10 Gauge " regular Hook Up Wire..... We also still have issues.... Still shutting down :((((((..... I don't know if it's taking too much juice.... If we go over 70 MPH, the Car starts to " hesitate " and wants to die..... Also, the Battery Indicator also light up. But if we slow down..... anything under 60 MPH.... We were able to drive for about an Hour. YUP, STRANGE and we are pulling our hair out.... Still happening as we speak :(((. NOTE: As long my Dad keep it under 60 MPH, it doesn't die.
+Chinou Vwj - Me and my Dad going to try something this weekend... Here is what you can do.... LOOK AT ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES.... I am gearing that is the " Culprit "..... I think when the Car / Trucks get HOT, the " Vacuum Lines " get " Soft ", this is where it leads to " BOGGING " down, until it's cool again. So............. Replace your Vacuum Lines.... Recently, I check them and it's really " SOFT ", which I am gearing towards it! I THINK IT'S THE VACUUM LINES :))))))))))))) NOTE: I will make an UPDATE / NEW VIDEO this weekend. PLEASE let me know if you find something new so I can add that in the Video to share :)
+Chinou Vwj - History what I have changed / replaced and still shut down: ALL NEW PARTS: Ignition Control Module + Ignition Coil + Temperature Sensor + Crank Case Sensor + New Cap / Distributor + New Spark Plugs + New EGR + New IACV + New Alternator. NOTHING WORKS !!! Only thing I could think of now is........... VACUUM LINES !!!
Jordan Bronson Similar to what I’ve changed in my blazer. Im about ready to sell it away and get something more reliable.
+Chinou Vwj - I love my Dad's Blazer.... It's so easy to work with... I am NEVER gonna let my Dad sell his, LOL. It has to be something simple.... I am going to take ALL DAY Sunday to work on it.... I will find out soon, LOL. But the " CULPRIT " I think it's the VACUUM LINE! I am going to replaced ALL THE VACUUM LINES THIS WEEKEND!
My 02' Blazer ZR2 drove fine to the store a couple miles down the road, I got there & killed it & it wouldn't restart!
I towed it to the shop & $700 later. They found that my Coil had a tiny crack & it was grounding out.
Luckily the mechanic knew about this issue & found it immediately.
Saving me hundreds in diagnostic fees!
The $700 fee got me a new Distributor w/ cap, Rotor, wires, plugs, ECM & Coil. Plus an oil change & right upper control arm while I had it in.
Going to try your tip later for the vacuum lines. I see one of my lines that is deteriorating and flat instead of open. Imagine pinching a straw in the middle. That’s what my line looks like
I’ve been fighting this for a long time now. I’ll definitely give it a go. Thanks for the idea
See description !!!
Ok here is a tip the ignition coil have a insulation that with time goes bad and star liking hig spark voltage to mass or body parts this will reduce voltages to spark plugs shutdown the engine.
The reason why is happens on hot days is becouse the insulation is made whit a material similar to tar and after a fiew years loose the resistance to heat .
Also the cable to if got any licks of sparks it will do the same
And to end the picup coil also can be bad
Electric parts over the years working on hig voltages and heat go bad
seems like the clicking is from your electrical wire not having enough insulation, causing arcing which is that click youre hearing. the arcing will cause your car to overheat. the reason the spark plug wires look fat is because it's got a LOT of insulation. also, you don't need a large gauge wire because all you're sending is enough electricity to cause a spark. that's why it's throwing the battery light.
*Why speculating and insinuating? The video and the title said it all !!!*
looking through all these comments and still no one has a guaranteed fix. As if everyone’s stalling is happening for different reasons. I am 2nd owner of a 98 blazer with 102,750 miles that I purchased 2 weeks ago. Currently at 103k and I have stalled almost 30 times. Every mile and a half on the highway it stalls. I bought the car 2 hours away from home and it made it back fine with cold AC. Couple days after purchase is when the stalling started at 55-70mph. I’ve replaced alternator, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and new spark plug wires and the new coil wire you are talking about. Car worked perfect in town for the weekend then Monday morning went back to stalling. This shit is frustrating
You gave me a clue in your post. COPY: Couple days after purchase is when the stalling started at 55-70mph.
Can this stop the truck from starting?
YES it can !!!
i have 1999 GMC my truck has being doing the same thing as the video. It is like what ever is getting to hot its not alowing my fuel pump to stay on and my battery lights flashes sometimes then it dies and wont crank back up for a while. i have replaced plugs,plug wires,dist.cap,rotary pin,fuel pump,and fuel filter. Now i am out of ideas..
YOU WILL NEVER BELIEVE IT !!! The CULPRIT for this car was = The Ignition " Module " *Wire* that goes to the Hub Cap. NOTE: Did you check your Ignition Module + Ignition Coil ???
NOTE: In this S10.... When it gets HOT, the Battery Light also Blinked as well. I solved with the Spark Plug Wire + Ignition Control Module replacement.
So try the *Ignition Control Module* + *Ignition Coil* + the *Wire* to the Distributor Cap
Did you figure out what is was ????
Same shit happen to me
Thx for the tip im going to try it
Did it work?
@@JodBronson it didn’t work but the problem is that like in 45 minutes it starts like running out of fuel until it shuts off then it doesn’t turn on again until the next day but now with the new ignition it feels better thx
@@trendstrends3770 - If you haven't change the your cables (Plug Wires). It maybe a good time to do it. If not enough juice, it will give you problems again. Ignition Plug Cables are cheap and can save lots of headaches !!!
If you don't have enough voltage or amperage in your battery your computer system will not work right also on coils sometimes they don't work at all or sometimes a coil will work okay until it starts to get hot and then the coil will quit working these are some ideas to help anyone actually in my opinion a coil and new wires are part of a tune-up
Well, we bought Brand New Battery over and over again..... That was not the case. It was the " Ignition Spark Plug " that was the Culprit. After we changed it, it's still doing great now. Although at the time, it was the most " Headaches " thing I've ever experienced since my Dad bought it.
@@JodBronson what is an ignition spark plug thanks
The ignition module..!!!!!!!👍👍👍👍
Check Description - The Title is for " RUclips Search !!!
By the way, the culprit was NOT the Ignition Module.
@@JodBronson so what was the culprit?
@@bertoguadarrama1 - The SHORT Wire that come from " Ignition Module " that does into the " Rotor Cap ". That is the Culprit and NO ONE in the world knows that except me. Change that and you will be good to go !!!
Thank u
You are welcome and ask if you have more questions!
My truck had cut off while driving a couple times before then I drove home from work the other day making some really bad noises and it I shut it off when I got home and now when I crank it it’ll crank make loud squealing bump grind and shut right off
It could be a few things... But here is where you can start easily. Take the " Belt " off completely.
#1 - Now crank the Engine and see if it start, let it run for about 30 seconds to a minute to make sure..... This will tell you a lot of things..., now you know it starts AOK.
#2 - Next.... Shut the Engine down and let it cool.
#3 - Spin the Alternator by hand and see if you hear " Grinding " noise and if you do, that is the Culprit. If that is AOK, then Alternator is good.
#4 - Spin the AC Clutch by hand and see if it moves... If it's HARD to move, then the AC Clutch is " Seized ". If that is AOK, then the AC Clutch is Good. (NOTE: This could the the problem)
#5 - Spin the Fan / Water Pump and see if you hear " Grinding " noise. If you do, that maybe the culprit. NOTE: This is rare.
NOTE: Make sure your BELT is AOK and TRY those steps above!
I have the same problem with my honda
Read some of the comments below, it will help you further.
@@JodBronson OK thanks🤗
@@DIANALIZ253 - You are welcome!
Gotten ground it
You are 100% correct on " Grounding ". But the " Culprit " is the Wire that goes to the " Cap ".
Did you find out what it was?
+Chinou Vwj - So far, we changed all the " Vacuum Tubes " and change the " Wire " I've made, since it sucks too much Power. By then, it was dark.... It was cool, so we drove up and down the street..., wasn't able to go on the Highway to test it :((.... It's not shutting down yet.... NOTE: Double check on your Vacuum Lines. I found a " Line " that was really soft due to time.... Also, check the " CHECK VALVE ". There are 2 " little " Check Valve on them. Also, it's the SAME LINE that control your 4 Wheel Drive Switch.... Start FROM ...... The connector that close to your PCV Valve, RIGHT hand side of your Air Intake / Engine..... From that, replace or check " ALL " of those Vacuum Tube.... Once the Heat gets to it.... It gets really " soft " and " collapsed " on its own.
+Chinou Vwj - 😊😊😊 Update..... So far since we change the Wire + Re-Route the Vacuum Tubes.... It's working AOK 😊😊😊!!! We TEST DROVE it on the High Way over 70 MPH and the Engine is NOT buckling or hesitating. My Dad drove the whole week and it's not shutting down yet. I might make a Video of it especially on the Vacuum Tubes...... I think the Transmission Fumes plugging the " One Way Valve " and I think that is the caused of it.... I found bunches of " Trans Fluid " in the Vacuum Lines... Check yours too see if that is the case.... I also " blew out " the One-Way Valve in the Lines to make sure it's not clogging.
Jordan Bronson Which one is the “one way valve”?
+Chinou Vwj - On your Vacuum Lines.... The ones that connected to your PCV Valve... Off of the Engine itself.... There is a " Breather " there. From there, you will see bunch of 1/4" Black Soft Hose Lines.... Those are your Vacuum Lines... Follow those and you will see a " Once Way Valve "... I found 2 of them.... They are about 3/4" big and look like a " Small Lawn Mower Gas Filters "... That is your " One Way Valve ". NOTE: On mine, I actually " RE-ROUTE " and " DESIGN " them my way..... Hmmmmmm.... I will make a Video for it I guess, LOL
+Chinou Vwj - Here, this is what they look like.... I found 2 of them.... One have has a splitter, the second one doesn't.
Here is the Link for the splitter kind: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-one-way-vacuum-check-valve-74808/18480609-P