I apologize, but there are three things I forgot to mention that are available on this motherboard (my apologies), including: 1) TPM 2.0 Header (14-1), 2) Thermal Sensor Header, 3) GPU Release Button (PCIe Slot 1) - Very Nice, since it vastly improves the ability to quickly remove the primary graphics card.
This video is tremendously helpful. I wish more channels would present information in such an organized and thorough manner. I'm just setting up this same motherboard today
Thanks Jason, I'm looking forward to building it as well. I am debating whether to add another 2 or 4GB M.2 to the parts I have already purchased, prior to doing the actual build.
I just bought almost the same parts you did for my first build in wondering when you are doing part 3. This info was invaluable to me. What a great job! I'm looking forward to seeing you put your together. I'm going to start mine today, wish me luck, it will be a very expensive learning curve if I make a mistake, lol.
I am currently planning Part 3 (and a small Part 4) later next week. So I hope to have something up by next weekend. By the way, Part 3 (and the small Part 4) will be focused on my custom working cooling component.
I tried mine on the bench only so far, and it worked as I hoped. I am looking forward to getting that build done and improving my RUclips content creation with DaVinchi resolve.
@@dream_mykingThat motherboard is meant for my 'Content Creating' workstation. But you never know - once I retire I may more time to restart my gaming activities.
Thank you so much for making this very well and detailed video. I am planning on buying this Motherboard for my corsair 5000D, i am also picking up the Intel i9 13900K CPU and already have 13 Corsair QL-120 fans and a H150i LCD display AIO version and a HX1500i power supply. This video is very helpful as it is my first time buying PC parts to build my own PC. Once im done the only thing im gonna need to learn how to do is install the Windows software l, im not a fan of windows 11 so ill be sticking with windows 10. Thank you again for the detailed explanation. Very helpful. 🙇♂️🙏
I appreciate the overview; it's far more thorough than any others I've watched, but I do have some questions if you have the time... @19:55 4th step second bullet point, I'm confused about the add'l rubber spacer. First, what is meant by the top of the M.2 (The edge furthest from the connectors or its face/sides that faces up when installed)? And Second where are the rubber spacers placed if they are needed? At the least, thanks again for the video.
That additional rubber spacer is only needed if your M.2 drive does not have chips (surface-mounted integrated circuits0 on the bottom of the circuit board (which is usually the case for Gen-4 devices). It provided a cushion for the board as the heat-sink presses down on the M.2 circuit board, so it does not bend in the middle. I should have provided a graphics of that when I mentioned it, so maybe I can make one when I actually do the build in the next few weeks. Along with actually showing if being done, since my M.2's do not have chips on the bottom of the circuit board. Then again, maybe I should make a Short video showing that - hmmmm.
This is a superb video! I am in the process of returning a computer with this board to the company that built it for me (GPU, RAM and CPU problems that have nothing to do with this amazing motherboard), and am absolutely going to use this same board for my new computer. Question: there are lots of rumors about the four M.2 ports, specifically that using some of them will interfere with the GPU because of shared PCI bandwidth. Have you any information or thoughts about this? Or could you point me to any other resources? My inclination is to use the first two M.2 ports for a pair of drives in RAID 0 for my Operating System, a third for project files, and the fourth for cache/scratch disk. Thanks again for such a clear, concise, and informative tutorial.
@@obriennyc Sorry I missed this question when you first posted it. On the ASUS ProArt Z790 the 1st three M.2 slots (M.2_1, M.2_2 and M.2_3) there is not conflict with anything else so those are good. The 4th M.2 however (M.2_1) conflicts with SATA Data forts 5 through 8. So if you put an M.2 in that slot, you lose half your SATA connectors. Which may, or may not limit storage depending on which M.2 you purchase or which SATA drives you want to use on the system.
outstanding review sir! have you tested external ssd storage on thunderbolt 4 port? like usb 3.2 gen 2x2? if yes then are you getting the desired 10gbps/20gbps speed? i heard tb4 port gives very low like 70-80mbps transfer speed when connected with external nvme ssd (like usb 3.2 gen 2x2.
Thanks for the nice comment 🙂 I have not tried using the motherboard features yet, but I will add that to my list of things to try when testing the completed system.
I'm an architect, my PC parts election was: 14700k Asus z90 ProArt Wifi Corsair 32GB Dominator Platinum 6400Mhz Antec P20C ARGB case Thermaltake GF3 1200 WATTS Gold Asus ProArt 4070 Ti OC edition 2 x 2TB Samsung SSD 990 pro NMve ARTIC LIQUID 360mm argb cpu cooler Total - $ 2550, is not bad at all, Black Friday help me with the prices
WOW, my daughter is also an Architect as well. That sound like a great System you have there. Let me how it works for you special software. Also, keep tuned for my upcoming build.
@PE4Doers I use the autocad 2024, and revit 2024 too, is great with those softwares. I need will install now sketchup and vray, and Adobe master collection to support my design projects
You should always check for BIOS updates. In fact, there was another one issued for this motherboard just a week ago, which I updated just yesterday while the board is still outside the case. Also, I do not believe you need an update for the 13th Gen CPU's, only the 14th. But it is not an update you need to get the system to boot, just some additional features that will be enabled. Also, this motherboard has the ability to boot without a working BIOS in it, since it can Flash the ROM directly following a simple procedure shown in the User manual toward the end. So, if you accidentally corrupt the BIOS, you will not have 'Bricked' the motherboard since you can easily recover with a USB stick, and visiting the ASUS Website to download the latest working version.
@@Bourse786 Thanks. I was thinking about doing that. I will look into it tomorrow and if I do, I will include both how to do that with the BIOS working and also how to do it without the BIOS working.
The USB connectors in the IO panel are all 3.2 Gen2, e.g. 10 Gbps, not 5 Gbps like it was claimed in the video. Not sure how to make such mistake when one can clearly see on connectors themselves that they are labeled with 10 to indicate their supported specs
I have seen that on Motherboards for quite a few years. My 'guess' is that it is possible for a case to the Power connector contained in a two-pin socked, or two separate one-pin sockets to give the installer the option of plugging it in either way. Although, the only ones I have ever seen are two one-pin sockets. Another possibility could be a three-pin socket, that some labelled vendor preferred using at one time, and nobody wanted to catch flack for not supporting that. As I said, my answer her is mostly hypothesis.
In your expert opinion Is this board enough to handle a 14900k and 64gb 6000 MT/s ram? I have seen some posts online about people having trouble with this board booting with certain hardwares, that's why I'm asking. Your response will be highly appreciated, thank you.
What you heard may be related to the issue when 4-DIMMs are used. I have done preliminary tested, and using two 32gb DIMMs is absolutely no problem. When I complete the final build, I will have four (4) 32gb (for a total of 12gb) I am expecting that I may not be able to run those at their maximum speed. Does that answer what you were interested in knowing?
Almost the perfect motherboard... It lacks an optical SPDIF output. This is quite ironic for a "Creator" motherboard in this price range. Also, where is the CMOS battery?
I have not seen a actual case of that, but I suppose with the right software at both ends of the connection (and maybe assisted with a controller in the middle), that could be possible. I do know (and have done something like) with the SATA data connections on a modern motherboard. By setting two exact drives (in my case being 2.5" SSDs) into a RAID 0 (which was handled by the motherboard and supported by some Intel S/W drivers), i was able to not only double the continuous capacity of data storage, but the actual throughput to the the motherboard and Windows doubled. I had heard that could be achieved, but did not believe it until I tried it. Here is a link to the video I made on this SATA improvement: ruclips.net/video/M2CydJoIz1A/видео.html
Any device that can take a Video output through DP or HDMI. That is usually a monitor, however many other devices such a capture cards and Video switches can also work.
Does it have Bluetooth transceiver onboard? The specs on Scan UK says under Rear I/O Connectors > 1 x WiFi / Bluetooth Module I don't want to waste a PCIe port just for wireless headphones (no I'm not using wired) and the dongles aren't reliable.
Yes, it does have Bluetooth. One of the 'key' advantages of using a Creator Motherboard - Connectivity is the prime directive. Here is an except from the User Manual: Bluetooth V5.3 Hardware Ready- The Bluetooth version may vary, please refer to the WiFi module manufacturer's website for the latest specifications.
@@PE4Doers Ah, I see it now. I've read that and the WRX 90 specs many times and didn't realise the connector for the WiFi and BT is an M.2. Thank you very much.
Board runs great with two 32g Corsair vengeance but when I install 4 I get over 10k errors and crappy performance. Any reason I get errors running 4 sticks?
There is a general problem with 4-sticks when using DDR5. It is usually dependent on whether XMP is enabled or not, but sometimes when the speed of the DIMMs is higher than 4800. Not generally dependent on the specific Motherboard manufacturer of model. One thing to double-check is that you have the latest version of the BIOS installed. Also, this motherboard supports 48g DIMMs, so when you use two, you will get 96g. I've heard that has helped the problem go away for some who have tried that.
To start, I do not have one of those High-End monitors that would benefit from using that. However, I would think it is possible for a Creator to have two such monitors (which would be a huge 'Price Tag' for anyone not worth Millions), then you could have the advantage of editing on one monitor, and watching content snippets on the other if full resolution. I know that would be hand for me to have.
I have not (since I did not try adding all four DIMMs up to this point), however I've heard that DDR5 memory could have problems reaching it's maximum speed when all four are installed.
@@j_shelby_damnwirdThe ones I will be using are the G.Skill Ripjaws, but only at 5600MT/s. There are faster, but the price goes up exponentially and they become less compatible above 6000.
@@j_shelby_damnwirdYou are welcome. I am holding out hope that this issue goes away at some point through improved Motherboards, Memory or CPUs. Having it cured with a BIOS update would be wonderful, but it seems out of reach as of now.
@PE4Doers actually is way more than enough for most people unless you are going for way crazy overclocking. Your cooler will likely give up way faster than the vrms. Not sure what specs you checked but you are selling it very short. You are falling for a lot of marketing numbers. I have been overclocking for decades
@@shaolin95 I follow what you are saying, however a key concept of a creator Workstation is not based on overclocking, therefore the VRM is much less significant. It's all about Fast connectivity and storage. Once I do the final build, hopefully you will understand my thinking in that area.
Again you are missing the point of overkill, which a lot of mobos do for anything outside exotic cooling. Have you ever seen Buildzoid? He explains it clearly. And I have those board and I am OCing so not sure why you argue when I have facts and real world results to back up my claim and you only have speculation based on a misunderstanding of specs. I am sadly disappointed with your attitude I am done with this channel
Your recommendations to use minimum 1000W PSU is BS. The motherboard manual clearly states to use 1000W+ PSU only if 2 or more high-end PCI Express x16 cards are in use. This scenario is very unlikely, because the MB has only 3x PCIe slots and one would not be able to use even 2x high-end GPUs in it at their full potential. Trying to use more than 1 GPU will lead to PCIe speed being reduced to 8x+8x and the 3rd PCIe is only 4x. The MB manual recommended minimum is just 350 W, which is far away from what you are suggesting. The manual also does not say anything about 850W recommendation, so not sure where you got it from. From the manual: "For a fully configured system, we recommend that you use a power supply unit (PSU) that complies with ATX 12V Specification 2.0 (or later version) and provides a minimum power of 350W." "If you want to use two or more high-end PCI Express x16 cards, use a PSU with 1000W power or above to ensure the system stability" You off course are welcome to use whatever you want. However, the text you show on the screen looks like a copy from the manual, which apparently is not the case and it is misleading. I made this post only because it mislead me at first and I had to do an investigation, which showed that requirements you come up with are an overkill and misleading.
Both the manual and I are estimating what the power draw might be. I use the rule of always trying to reach 50% of the maximum, which seems high sometimes, however if you look are the charts for any PC PSU 50% is where you reach peak efficiency. I've made more than one video about that specific topic on my Channel, and it is basic Electrical Engineering concept that has been tested against all magnetism based electrical component for at least 80 years.
@@PE4DoersIf your claim that PSUs are most efficient at 50% of load and If your logic is to get a PSU which has 2x the power limit of what you will ever need as max, then you will always run your PSU very inefficiently, because you will always be running at very low load level and only reach max efficiency once the system is max loaded which will happen very rarely. Your calculations of what is max required power levels could also be incorrect, because such calculations are theoretical. The practical tests show that the actual load is usually smaller than what people think it will be based on theoretical calculations. For example, playing some games will not load the system to the max, because even though GPU may run using max power, the CPU most likely will not. Achieving the max load of the system would only be possible using very specialized workflows like running benchmarks, but not under normal PC use. In general, what you write about PSUs reaching their peak efficiency only at 50% is also not correct. Maybe it was the case some years ago, but not anymore, especially where most of PSUs these days are 80 plus rated and run very efficiency at most of the power levels. The efficiency curves are more or less flat through the most range varying just in 1-5%, at least for high quality PSUs. Such PSUs also reach near peak efficiency at as low as 100-200W load and keep running at that efficiency towards the max power level. So even though PSUs could reach the absolute peak efficiency somewhere in 40-60% load range, it does not mean much anymore, because efficiency is considered to be flat throughout ~20-90% power load because of how little the efficiency change in that range. Moreover, most quality PSUs can without any issues run efficiently to their maximum rated power level and have no problems delivering at least 10% over the rated power level. So if you get 1000W PSU, then you can easily run it up to ~1100W. So the power spikes are already covered by PSU's rating allowing it to go over to handle them and one does not have to overcompensate buying a more powerful PSU. There are videos in RUclips where experts show how much power PCs are actually using and how people buy way too powerful PSUs just because of superstition. So unless you are overclocking CPU and GPU or use some crazy setup with multiple high-end GPSs, a quality Platinum rated 850W PSU is probably max what you will ever need with a significant safety margin on top.
@@dkostasx Sorry you disagree about about the 50% power draw not being optimal efficiency. There's not much I can do about helping there other than listing all of my undergrad electrical engineering text books. In terms of doubling the power capability, it is with that 50 efficiency in mind. It' can't always be achieved (or stay achieved), but that is what I initially shoot for on a new build.
![The BEST Motherboard for AMD Ryzen. Period. - Here's Why! [Asus ProArt X870e Creator WiFi]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X4vfnm3iNxA/mqdefault.jpg)
![BEST Creator Motherboard for Ryzen 7000! - Asus X670E ProArt Creator WiFi Motherboard [Deep-dive]](/img/1.gif)
I apologize, but there are three things I forgot to mention that are available on this motherboard (my apologies), including:
1) TPM 2.0 Header (14-1), 2) Thermal Sensor Header, 3) GPU Release Button (PCIe Slot 1) - Very Nice, since it vastly improves the ability to quickly remove the primary graphics card.
This video is tremendously helpful. I wish more channels would present information in such an organized and thorough manner. I'm just setting up this same motherboard today
Thank you Sir. I truly appreciate the very complimentary comment.
Thats a NICE board, i so remember the days of building THOUSANDS of machines !! Can't wait to see you build a machine !!
Thanks Jason, I'm looking forward to building it as well. I am debating whether to add another 2 or 4GB M.2 to the parts I have already purchased, prior to doing the actual build.
This is one of the best reviews I have seen. You did an outstanding job explaining some of the fine details.
Thank you. I was trying to be complete and accurate, however I still missed three things I wanted to mention (see the Pinned comment).
I just bought almost the same parts you did for my first build in wondering when you are doing part 3. This info was invaluable to me. What a great job! I'm looking forward to seeing you put your together. I'm going to start mine today, wish me luck, it will be a very expensive learning curve if I make a mistake, lol.
I am currently planning Part 3 (and a small Part 4) later next week. So I hope to have something up by next weekend. By the way, Part 3 (and the small Part 4) will be focused on my custom working cooling component.
I am using this board for my 14900k gaming and productivity pc. I love that it has 8 sata ports and 10Gb nic
That is the same processor I have, and I love just about all the I/O and connectivity. I doubt I will use all those SAT Data ports however.
Appreciate this overview! Your description of the power inputs is much clearer than the manual and helped me get my build wired to the PSU correctly!
I'm very glad I could help. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment so graciously.
This month i built my first PC, and i hadn't this video, but now i saw that i wasn't wrong when i bought this motherboard
I tried mine on the bench only so far, and it worked as I hoped. I am looking forward to getting that build done and improving my RUclips content creation with DaVinchi resolve.
Are you gaming with this motherboard? I want to create and play AAA titles
@@dream_myking I don't play too much, but i'm sure that this computer is more than enough to play any game that you want in, even in 4k
@@dream_mykingThat motherboard is meant for my 'Content Creating' workstation. But you never know - once I retire I may more time to restart my gaming activities.
Thank you so much for making this very well and detailed video. I am planning on buying this Motherboard for my corsair 5000D, i am also picking up the Intel i9 13900K CPU and already have 13 Corsair QL-120 fans and a H150i LCD display AIO version and a HX1500i power supply. This video is very helpful as it is my first time buying PC parts to build my own PC. Once im done the only thing im gonna need to learn how to do is install the Windows software l, im not a fan of windows 11 so ill be sticking with windows 10. Thank you again for the detailed explanation. Very helpful. 🙇♂️🙏
You are very welcome. I'm so glad I could help.
Only 5 fan headers though which sucks
@@American.Divergent I would have preferred 7 or 8 myself, but I plan on using a Fan Hub which will provide more.
i saw too your installation video of ARCTIC LIQUID 360 mm, supreme too
Thanks. What did you think of the AIO? The build I'm doing with this motherboard will be my 1st 'Custom' Water-cooled build.
This was very helpful. Thank you.
You are very welcome. I'm very gladd I could help in some way. Thank you for the nice comment 🙂
I appreciate the overview; it's far more thorough than any others I've watched, but I do have some questions if you have the time...
@19:55 4th step second bullet point, I'm confused about the add'l rubber spacer. First, what is meant by the top of the M.2 (The edge furthest from the connectors or its face/sides that faces up when installed)? And Second where are the rubber spacers placed if they are needed?
At the least, thanks again for the video.
That additional rubber spacer is only needed if your M.2 drive does not have chips (surface-mounted integrated circuits0 on the bottom of the circuit board (which is usually the case for Gen-4 devices). It provided a cushion for the board as the heat-sink presses down on the M.2 circuit board, so it does not bend in the middle.
I should have provided a graphics of that when I mentioned it, so maybe I can make one when I actually do the build in the next few weeks. Along with actually showing if being done, since my M.2's do not have chips on the bottom of the circuit board. Then again, maybe I should make a Short video showing that - hmmmm.
This is a superb video! I am in the process of returning a computer with this board to the company that built it for me (GPU, RAM and CPU problems that have nothing to do with this amazing motherboard), and am absolutely going to use this same board for my new computer.
Question: there are lots of rumors about the four M.2 ports, specifically that using some of them will interfere with the GPU because of shared PCI bandwidth. Have you any information or thoughts about this? Or could you point me to any other resources?
My inclination is to use the first two M.2 ports for a pair of drives in RAID 0 for my Operating System, a third for project files, and the fourth for cache/scratch disk.
Thanks again for such a clear, concise, and informative tutorial.
Your configuration sounds great. Thank you for the comments and compliments.
@@PE4Doers Any thoughts on the M.2 issue I mentioned?
@@obriennyc Sorry I missed this question when you first posted it. On the ASUS ProArt Z790 the 1st three M.2 slots (M.2_1, M.2_2 and M.2_3) there is not conflict with anything else so those are good. The 4th M.2 however (M.2_1) conflicts with SATA Data forts 5 through 8. So if you put an M.2 in that slot, you lose half your SATA connectors. Which may, or may not limit storage depending on which M.2 you purchase or which SATA drives you want to use on the system.
@@PE4Doers Thank you!
outstanding review sir! have you tested external ssd storage on thunderbolt 4 port? like usb 3.2 gen 2x2? if yes then are you getting the desired 10gbps/20gbps speed? i heard tb4 port gives very low like 70-80mbps transfer speed when connected with external nvme ssd (like usb 3.2 gen 2x2.
Thanks for the nice comment 🙂 I have not tried using the motherboard features yet, but I will add that to my list of things to try when testing the completed system.
Great video. Thank you
You are very welcome. Thank you for the nice comment 🙂
That looks like a nice board.
It is Jeremy. Thanks for the comment
I'm an architect, my PC parts election was:
14700k
Asus z90 ProArt Wifi
Corsair 32GB Dominator Platinum 6400Mhz
Antec P20C ARGB case
Thermaltake GF3 1200 WATTS Gold
Asus ProArt 4070 Ti OC edition
2 x 2TB Samsung SSD 990 pro NMve
ARTIC LIQUID 360mm argb cpu cooler
Total - $ 2550, is not bad at all, Black Friday help me with the prices
WOW, my daughter is also an Architect as well. That sound like a great System you have there. Let me how it works for you special software. Also, keep tuned for my upcoming build.
@PE4Doers I use the autocad 2024, and revit 2024 too, is great with those softwares. I need will install now sketchup and vray, and Adobe master collection to support my design projects
@PE4Doers Your daughter studied an amazing and passionate profession, your should be proud of her
super video thank you, can need to update Bios if i use i9 13900 K ?
You should always check for BIOS updates. In fact, there was another one issued for this motherboard just a week ago, which I updated just yesterday while the board is still outside the case. Also, I do not believe you need an update for the 13th Gen CPU's, only the 14th. But it is not an update you need to get the system to boot, just some additional features that will be enabled. Also, this motherboard has the ability to boot without a working BIOS in it, since it can Flash the ROM directly following a simple procedure shown in the User manual toward the end. So, if you accidentally corrupt the BIOS, you will not have 'Bricked' the motherboard since you can easily recover with a USB stick, and visiting the ASUS Website to download the latest working version.
@@PE4Doers thank you very much for this informations. Can you make an video "how do update bios" for this Asus proart z790.
@@Bourse786 Thanks. I was thinking about doing that. I will look into it tomorrow and if I do, I will include both how to do that with the BIOS working and also how to do it without the BIOS working.
@@PE4Doers Thank you in advance and I will wait for your video before updating my motherboard :)
The USB connectors in the IO panel are all 3.2 Gen2, e.g. 10 Gbps, not 5 Gbps like it was claimed in the video. Not sure how to make such mistake when one can clearly see on connectors themselves that they are labeled with 10 to indicate their supported specs
I concede I may have made a mistake there. If the connector is Aqua, it is usually 3.2 Gen 2.
Thank You for being a great teacher, you are very easy to follow.
you are very welcome. Thank you for the nice comment.
Late to the game question. Why are there (2) separate PLED + and - locations?
I have seen that on Motherboards for quite a few years. My 'guess' is that it is possible for a case to the Power connector contained in a two-pin socked, or two separate one-pin sockets to give the installer the option of plugging it in either way. Although, the only ones I have ever seen are two one-pin sockets. Another possibility could be a three-pin socket, that some labelled vendor preferred using at one time, and nobody wanted to catch flack for not supporting that. As I said, my answer her is mostly hypothesis.
In your expert opinion Is this board enough to handle a 14900k and 64gb 6000 MT/s ram? I have seen some posts online about people having trouble with this board booting with certain hardwares, that's why I'm asking. Your response will be highly appreciated, thank you.
What you heard may be related to the issue when 4-DIMMs are used. I have done preliminary tested, and using two 32gb DIMMs is absolutely no problem. When I complete the final build, I will have four (4) 32gb (for a total of 12gb) I am expecting that I may not be able to run those at their maximum speed. Does that answer what you were interested in knowing?
Almost the perfect motherboard... It lacks an optical SPDIF output. This is quite ironic for a "Creator" motherboard in this price range. Also, where is the CMOS battery?
I see your point. I have never used those optical outputs, but I guess if high quality music is being created then it is essential.
You are a master in explanation, thanks a lot
That you for the great comment
Question: can we somehow "bond" USB ports to produce a higher throughout interface just as we can do using network ports?
I have not seen a actual case of that, but I suppose with the right software at both ends of the connection (and maybe assisted with a controller in the middle), that could be possible.
I do know (and have done something like) with the SATA data connections on a modern motherboard. By setting two exact drives (in my case being 2.5" SSDs) into a RAID 0 (which was handled by the motherboard and supported by some Intel S/W drivers), i was able to not only double the continuous capacity of data storage, but the actual throughput to the the motherboard and Windows doubled. I had heard that could be achieved, but did not believe it until I tried it.
Here is a link to the video I made on this SATA improvement: ruclips.net/video/M2CydJoIz1A/видео.html
which devices can I plug in is Display port In/HDMI in ?
Any device that can take a Video output through DP or HDMI. That is usually a monitor, however many other devices such a capture cards and Video switches can also work.
Does it have Bluetooth transceiver onboard?
The specs on Scan UK says under Rear I/O Connectors > 1 x WiFi / Bluetooth Module
I don't want to waste a PCIe port just for wireless headphones (no I'm not using wired) and the dongles aren't reliable.
Yes, it does have Bluetooth. One of the 'key' advantages of using a Creator Motherboard - Connectivity is the prime directive. Here is an except from the User Manual:
Bluetooth V5.3 Hardware Ready-
The Bluetooth version may vary, please refer to the WiFi module manufacturer's website for the latest specifications.
@@PE4Doers Ah, I see it now. I've read that and the WRX 90 specs many times and didn't realise the connector for the WiFi and BT is an M.2. Thank you very much.
@@FrankEdavidson You are welcome.
Board runs great with two 32g Corsair vengeance but when I install 4 I get over 10k errors and crappy performance.
Any reason I get errors running 4 sticks?
There is a general problem with 4-sticks when using DDR5. It is usually dependent on whether XMP is enabled or not, but sometimes when the speed of the DIMMs is higher than 4800. Not generally dependent on the specific Motherboard manufacturer of model. One thing to double-check is that you have the latest version of the BIOS installed.
Also, this motherboard supports 48g DIMMs, so when you use two, you will get 96g. I've heard that has helped the problem go away for some who have tried that.
Did the q connector come with thr board?
Yes - ASUS includes them with the higher-end Motherboards.
In what scenerio would both DP in ports be used at the same time?
To start, I do not have one of those High-End monitors that would benefit from using that. However, I would think it is possible for a Creator to have two such monitors (which would be a huge 'Price Tag' for anyone not worth Millions), then you could have the advantage of editing on one monitor, and watching content snippets on the other if full resolution. I know that would be hand for me to have.
Can i use it with i9 14900k
YES. That is what I will be using and I've already benched-checked the motherboard with the Memory, CPU and and NVMe.
Anyone else having trouble with this board using the full 4 slots of DDR5 RAM up to 128 gb using XMP? if so, what brand and speed?
I have not (since I did not try adding all four DIMMs up to this point), however I've heard that DDR5 memory could have problems reaching it's maximum speed when all four are installed.
@@PE4DoersOnly two slots then? Which ones and what brand? Thank you.
@@j_shelby_damnwirdThe ones I will be using are the G.Skill Ripjaws, but only at 5600MT/s. There are faster, but the price goes up exponentially and they become less compatible above 6000.
@@PE4DoersI see, Thanks again.
@@j_shelby_damnwirdYou are welcome. I am holding out hope that this issue goes away at some point through improved Motherboards, Memory or CPUs. Having it cured with a BIOS update would be wonderful, but it seems out of reach as of now.
This board Overclocks extremely good as well. He is making completely bogus comments and assumptions
I may try that once I build the final system. The Z790 chip set definitely supports doing that, however the VRM is not super high.
@PE4Doers actually is way more than enough for most people unless you are going for way crazy overclocking. Your cooler will likely give up way faster than the vrms. Not sure what specs you checked but you are selling it very short.
You are falling for a lot of marketing numbers. I have been overclocking for decades
@@shaolin95 I follow what you are saying, however a key concept of a creator Workstation is not based on overclocking, therefore the VRM is much less significant. It's all about Fast connectivity and storage.
Once I do the final build, hopefully you will understand my thinking in that area.
Again you are missing the point of overkill, which a lot of mobos do for anything outside exotic cooling. Have you ever seen Buildzoid? He explains it clearly. And I have those board and I am OCing so not sure why you argue when I have facts and real world results to back up my claim and you only have speculation based on a misunderstanding of specs.
I am sadly disappointed with your attitude
I am done with this channel
Your recommendations to use minimum 1000W PSU is BS. The motherboard manual clearly states to use 1000W+ PSU only if 2 or more high-end PCI Express x16 cards are in use. This scenario is very unlikely, because the MB has only 3x PCIe slots and one would not be able to use even 2x high-end GPUs in it at their full potential. Trying to use more than 1 GPU will lead to PCIe speed being reduced to 8x+8x and the 3rd PCIe is only 4x. The MB manual recommended minimum is just 350 W, which is far away from what you are suggesting. The manual also does not say anything about 850W recommendation, so not sure where you got it from.
From the manual:
"For a fully configured system, we recommend that you use a power supply unit (PSU) that complies with ATX 12V Specification 2.0 (or later version) and provides a minimum power of 350W."
"If you want to use two or more high-end PCI Express x16 cards, use a PSU with 1000W power or above to ensure the system stability"
You off course are welcome to use whatever you want. However, the text you show on the screen looks like a copy from the manual, which apparently is not the case and it is misleading. I made this post only because it mislead me at first and I had to do an investigation, which showed that requirements you come up with are an overkill and misleading.
Both the manual and I are estimating what the power draw might be. I use the rule of always trying to reach 50% of the maximum, which seems high sometimes, however if you look are the charts for any PC PSU 50% is where you reach peak efficiency.
I've made more than one video about that specific topic on my Channel, and it is basic Electrical Engineering concept that has been tested against all magnetism based electrical component for at least 80 years.
@@PE4DoersIf your claim that PSUs are most efficient at 50% of load and If your logic is to get a PSU which has 2x the power limit of what you will ever need as max, then you will always run your PSU very inefficiently, because you will always be running at very low load level and only reach max efficiency once the system is max loaded which will happen very rarely. Your calculations of what is max required power levels could also be incorrect, because such calculations are theoretical. The practical tests show that the actual load is usually smaller than what people think it will be based on theoretical calculations. For example, playing some games will not load the system to the max, because even though GPU may run using max power, the CPU most likely will not. Achieving the max load of the system would only be possible using very specialized workflows like running benchmarks, but not under normal PC use.
In general, what you write about PSUs reaching their peak efficiency only at 50% is also not correct. Maybe it was the case some years ago, but not anymore, especially where most of PSUs these days are 80 plus rated and run very efficiency at most of the power levels. The efficiency curves are more or less flat through the most range varying just in 1-5%, at least for high quality PSUs. Such PSUs also reach near peak efficiency at as low as 100-200W load and keep running at that efficiency towards the max power level. So even though PSUs could reach the absolute peak efficiency somewhere in 40-60% load range, it does not mean much anymore, because efficiency is considered to be flat throughout ~20-90% power load because of how little the efficiency change in that range.
Moreover, most quality PSUs can without any issues run efficiently to their maximum rated power level and have no problems delivering at least 10% over the rated power level. So if you get 1000W PSU, then you can easily run it up to ~1100W. So the power spikes are already covered by PSU's rating allowing it to go over to handle them and one does not have to overcompensate buying a more powerful PSU.
There are videos in RUclips where experts show how much power PCs are actually using and how people buy way too powerful PSUs just because of superstition. So unless you are overclocking CPU and GPU or use some crazy setup with multiple high-end GPSs, a quality Platinum rated 850W PSU is probably max what you will ever need with a significant safety margin on top.
@@dkostasx Sorry you disagree about about the 50% power draw not being optimal efficiency. There's not much I can do about helping there other than listing all of my undergrad electrical engineering text books.
In terms of doubling the power capability, it is with that 50 efficiency in mind. It' can't always be achieved (or stay achieved), but that is what I initially shoot for on a new build.