This Elinchrom convert is super late to the Godox party (but that's cool right?) but amazed at the efforts Robert goes to in order to provide the community with detailed and refreshingly honest info. Thanks so much for making my transition to the Godox ecosystem a pleasure!
This is the type of content I struggle to find, Straight to the point, side by side tests and precise numbers, not any assumptions. I just bought a couple of AD200 with the B2 head and can't wait to receive/shoot with them :-)
@@robhallphoto Definitely a great setup: 2xAD200's provide a very versatile and powerful travel configuration. Add 1 or 2 860's and you get a complete affordable lighting kit.
@@budstran2121 I got both. The pro and non pro version. And in my opinion you don't need the pro version. I didn't see the better color consistency and the better interface isn't worth the 100 Dollors more.
Brilliant presentation! Maybe as a quick summary, for the Godox world where I do all of my flashing these days: - With the TT600/685/etc as a baseline... - The 350 is 1/2 the power - The AD200 is about twice the power (depending on head) - The AD400 is a tad more than 4x the power, and - The AD600 is slightly less than 8x the power. (or am I missing something?)
Thanks for the video. Especially a huge thank you for tabulating the results in the description instead of forcing viewers to watch through. I currently own four AD200 (including one AD200 Pro) and two AD-B2. I'm very happy with them per se, I just find them difficult to pack and I was wondering if it would make sense to replace the setup with an AD400 or AD600. Other than convenience (which cannot be overlooked), AD400 is less powerful and more expensive, while AD600 (and Pro) is even more expensive and still just barely more powerful.
@@01r1sh I actually found a suitable carrying case for them. I had an old Naneu Pro Correspondent 400 that I didn't use that much anymore (since now I carry my camera gear in a backpack). After removing the gear, I fit in all stuff vertically (like you would put lenses) and the AD-B2 to the sides of the bag. I carry the bare bulbs in the front pocket. The only problem that remains is that I still don't have a way to carry either the protective hoods or the reflectors.
@Robert Hall Photography Well done for this awesome comparison video. Great to see performance analysis and comparative advantages of the (in my case) 3 AD200 options: - Fresnel Head - Round Head - Bare bulb And to add to that, the extra power of the bare bulb when used in the AD-B2 (due to the silver reflector plate). What I’ve also found is the extra power of the bare bulb when used with the standard reflector.
As your other video "What Godox Flash do you need to OVERPOWER The SUN", this is a so valuable information, with so much and usefull data.... As an amateur, all this information is super useful when, due to my low budget I am uncertain about what light to buy ... A while ago I bought a V860, but I always thought that what would be better for me is the AD600 (I kind of specializing in ballet, circus, and athlete portrait photography) ... but of course, it is very expensive. With all this information, I see that an AD200 and later buy another AD200, will give me results very close to an AD600, making a more phased outlay.... Don't you think? Thanks for all your valuable content!!!
I was riding the fence on getting the AD600, but I opted for the B2-2x AD200 for the versatility of only needing one AD200. I just turn one of them off on the B2. Nice work.
Great video summary. Can you please do a similar one when HSS is used in speeds of 500,1000,2000,4000,8000 So that we will all finally know how much power loss there is when HSS is used. Since I guess head type (round barebalb, etc) have same power loss in HSS then the table should be much shorter
Ad200pro is my way to go. I can bring it easily anywhere.. I can hand hold it even with the soft box.. it's powerefull enough.. haven't tested yet but very excited to do so this weekend 😊
I have 2 roundheads and they differ half a stop at full power. My supplier finds this within the tolerances. It is fine to work with but one roundhead is apparently not the other. Thanks Rob for testing.
That's a huge difference, I don't think that should fall within tolerances, thats enough to make it almost identical l to the V1 (if yours more powerful one is the same as mine). I would wonder if the reflector behind the bulb is screwed up, because all 3 of mine just metered the same
Good review as always but I have a question. If you were doing portraits at night time using a double diffused 38inch softbox not to far from the subject, would you recommend the V1 or AD100? I have some AD200 but FJH suggests that they were to powerful for him, even on the lowest power.
hey bud im looking at getting a speed light for outdoor portrait work, modelling shoots, family portraits. I was looking at getting a soft box with the ad200pro, but should I go for the ad 4 or 600pro instead not really wanting to upgrade if one light isn't powerful enough I don't shoot in direct sunlight usually golden hours sunrise sunsets etc. thanks
I have a couple Flashpoint versions of the V1 and maybe I missed it, what was the zoom setting for these when tested? Maybe the softbox makes this point mute? I'm looking at getting the AD-200, with regards to the Fresnel option, I take it it's not adjustable? The compactness and options with that flash make it almost a no brainer, I think I'll get one. Great job btw, like your technical presentation and attention to detail for your experiments. Thank You!! SE Michigan? I'm over on the west side of the state.
Robert Hall Photography thanks for replying, that’s what I thought. This flash seems like a good all around tool, mine arrives next week. Thanks for all your content, very informative!
Thanks for doing all this testing Robert. I'm curious to see what you would get out of two AD200+AD-B2 and the extension cables VS To AD200 in the AD-B2. It's nice to get the weight lower on a stand/boom but at what power loss I wonder.
Since they are wired independently, you can assume each would lose .4 stop, and therefore the AD-B2 would lose .4 stop total from the result I got in this.
Very nice. Do you know how well the AD-B2 (with 2 bulbs) compares in HSS to the AD600pro? Similar comparative results, or does the use of HSS result in a bigger difference between the AD-B2's and the A600pro's outputs?
You didn't mention, but I'm guessing you measured multiple pops and averaged the results for each light. Is that correct? Some lights are very consistent, and others not so much, which is why I'm asking.
I do 5 out of habit but, there's no average figure on these because every X series godox light stays consistent within .1 stop when repeated at the same power level.
As always, great video. One question, you mention that fresnel heads will have higher output in a direct modifier. Does that mean that it's not suggested to use them in indirect octoboxes etc? I have 2 v860ii and usually use them in indirect softboxes. I rarely if ever use direct as I was under the impression I would have too much of a hard quality of light. Or maybe it's better to use these lights in direct but very diffused (multiple layers) modifiers?
If you put speedlights in a direct modifier with single diffusion, they will have more specular highlights than a barebulb equivalent. From what I've seen Double diffused softboxes the difference is very little, but still present. Indirect is definitely the closest you'll get to matching a barebulb that is direct.
There could be a number of reasons, I care about color stability way more than I care about recycle time, so that's the biggest advantage to me. Some people like the significantly brighter (4x) modeling lamp. Others buy because of the improved bulb design (horseshoe instead of recessed helical). I'm sure it's a different combination of the perks for everyone who made the decision.
Hye Rob, im looking to add more power to my portrait photography, currently now im work with ad200 pro and godox v1. as my budget limited to ad400pro and ad600bm, which will better suit for me, especially for outdoor portrait session. never test both ad600bm and ad400pro, portability not an issue here. but really need some advice and opinions from you, which should i buy? or its necessary to add ad600pro rather than ad400 and ad600bm. ttl never an issue as myself always prefer to control the light manually.
I would try to identify how much more power you need than the 200 pro. Push your light as far back as you want to be able to use it and take a 1/1 test, does your flash need to be 1 stop brighter? 2? The AD400 Pro will get you the one stop, anything more and you need the 600 pro. As for not needing TTL and Pro vs. non pro, in the US, there is a Flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro manual, which has no TTL and is cheaper than the one with TTL. Outside the US I don't think that exists, so you're stuck weighing the Pro vs AD600BM. If the increased color accuracy, faster recycle speed, or brighter modeling lamp aren't necessary to you, sticking with the original AD600BM is a tremendous value!
Hey Robert, can you update this list with the newest AD300 Pro with its default reflector, and the AD-R14 reflector? I shoot almost exclusively with a barebulb, and are curious to see how much difference is it between 300 and ad200. Thanks!
Hi Robert Thanks. Useful info. I have tried to do my own tests too, on occasion, to see what light pattern is and power hit when using under various conditions. Agree that roundheads come at a power hit vs bare bulb but accessory R1 kit is neat to be able to use with multi light setups where you dont need to max out power on every head. I found my Seconic meter sometimes differed by 1/10 stop on occasions - that might be where a head is say circa N stops plus say 3.4/10. Thus, although we can't measure 1/100ts I suspect that sometimes a smidge less power resolves at say f5.6 3/10 or with theoretically a 2/100 increase (electronics variance) it might read rounding up at say f5.6 4/10. Could this sort of factor account for some slight oddities like 5/10 stop power loss of EC200 cable vs lower loss of it's 'big brother' 2/10? From my own tests, which directionally were similar, I couldn't quite replicate a half stop loss using EC200 cable - but then I only measured that using round heads on AD200 (not bare bulb) which themselves seem to have an effeciency hit vs bare bulb. Do like idea of being able to use 2 x AD200s with AD-B2 (price, flexibility, standardisation and portability) vs say one AD400 or AD600. I had wondered about buying AD600 pro but with 3 x AD200s and one AD-B2 already owned just buying a 4th and/or 5th AD200 might make more sense than changing to AD400/600 heads especially as I mostly use on location and have to lug all kit needed.
Thank you for this and all reviews you do! I was surprised at the loss when using the EC200. I happened to check Adorama and saw they have a V1 and a V2 for their XP-200. They claim the V2 (for $10 more) works with the TwinHead. Curiously, I also saw where they claim the V1 has "No energy loss," but that claim is missing for the V2. Can there really be an energy loss difference between the two adapters? How does the EC200 compare to Flashpoint's versions?
Hi Robert, I’m trying to understand strobes and power differences. Pretty new to this. The AD400 and Ad600 power difference in watts is 1.5 times (400x1.5 = 600). But if your measurement shows that it’s 7/10 of a full stop darker, so the AD600 is 1.7 times brighter despite being 1.5 times more powerful? Doesn’t that mean the AD400 is underperforming?
The AD400 Pro has 2/3 (66%) of the watts as the AD600 Pro. and it is .7 stops less powerful. That would be exactly what one would expect from the watt seconds.
question: if one has only budget for 1x AD200 Pro, strategically should one invest in 1x AD200 Pro or buy 1-2x TT685 (or V860II) and save up to then buy the AD200 Pro? If the aim is to have 3 fully "fully working flash" in the end. because i think the AD200 Pro alone will need the godox ak‑r1 kit to handle different situations. while if one purchase 2x TT685 (or similar) one will have budget to buy some accessories kit right now (parabolic softbox, grid, gels, barn door, etc) to get the result wanted.. really appreciate your answer. thanks in advance.
First, If budget is a concern I'd buy the AD200 instead of the AD200 Pro. I'd buy TT600's first instead of TT685 because TTL is far from a necessity, get whatever modifiers you want, then I'd add the AD200.
How to use two or more flashes. My trigger (X-Pro) connects only one flash (Godox) V1 with V860 II the other does not connect. Who can show how to do this? When I connect another flash in group "B", the current flash in group "A" turns off for some reason.
Do you know how much faster the flash durations are for the h1200b? Also, do you think I will have issues with color matching an h1200b at lower power with an ad200pro or ad400pro? Thanks man - hope your channel bringing you abundance
That flash durations are on the flash. If you have two flashes firing at 1/4 power you will get that flash duration, but the equivalent of (almost) 1/2 power output
Wish you'd done the AD-B2 with a single power pack and a single bulb. I'd love to know where that slots into these results. I'm expecting around the AD200 Barebulb but slightly better due to the silver reflective nature. F8 4/10 maybe?
Hopefully you’re still replying to comments on this video. I own the AD600BM, AD400 Pro, and AD200. I have never used the 600 since getting my 400. I’m still new-ish to flash, but I was thinking of just selling my 600BM and getting another 200 with the B2 head. Is there any scenario where I’d need that 600BM over my 400pro or even dual 200s?
There's absolutely a situation...if you needed a brighter light. But, if you don't find you're ever using full power on the 400 and need more, then it's no problem. Like everything it's all based on what/how you shoot.
How does the modelling light of the AD600 and AD600 Pro compare? How much brighter is it really? This is the only thing I don't love about the AD600. When it is the least bit bright in the room, it is completely unusable.
@@robhallphoto thanks man. that just justify my choice. Since I already have 1 ad200pro, I went with AD-B2 & buying another AD200pro to pair it rather than buying one AD400pro. just ordered it cant wait for it to arrive.
As a key light? 200 square feet of diffused window. It's just the entrance to my studio which is all glass and has diffusion on it so you cant see inside. When you see the background have moving shadow patterns, that's a car driving by with the sun reflecting off it. But the diffusion is so strong it doesnt really show up on me.
I recently purchased the ad600 pro non TTL from adorama. I already have the AD-B2 with the 2 ad200 lights. Now I'm thinking I should return it because the have practically the same output
@@masilva0606 everything from the little AD200 to the AD600 is within 1.5 stops of light, which is all relatively close. Yes the combined 400 watts of the AD-B2 (paired with it's reflective back) is close to the output of an AD600 Pro, but the gap is still respectable, especially when you consider the AD600 Pro can recycle that power way faster. Sorry, my initial response was way too vague!
@@robhallphoto A very interesting comparison is between AD200Round and V1, only about half f-number (0.6). In the scenario of buying one V1 (on-camera) and two AD200Pro (off-camera), the question is whether it is better to add the Round head for the AD200 or another V1 (round, spare battery, back-up on camera flash) with AK-R1 for off-camera on Events, and two AD200Pro use with Fresnel and Barebulb heads.
@@robhallphoto It would be very interesting to see the comparison of AD200Round and V1. If the difference in the need for a soft light is only 0.6 f, I assume that for the needs of the hard light V1 with a narrower zoom, would be around the intensity of the AD200, with or without grids. For soft light modifiers, it is certainly a better Barebulb.
Down the road yes, but I'm not going to address it early until I have a final production model in my hands. Too much changed in the V1 for me to continue discussing their products early. It just leads to errors in my content that misinform people.
It took me about an hour and some change. A lot of the time is grabbing the lights, making sure they are in the right channel and group, doing about 10 full recycles first to make sure they are warm (some like the 360 haven't been used in forever), then swapping them inside the modifier.
@@robhallphoto got rid of my 360 in november, can't bring myself to carry a strobe, battery pack and stand bracket anymore. I guess now it takes you less time since you've done it many times but I guess you gotta put out the work just to avoid trolls in the comment section.
@@makatron I'm done with the 360 myself. I used it once last year on location the day after I broke 2 AD200s. My 360ii permanently lives in the studio now.
I am very disappointed with the Round Head. Comparing the Fresnel head to the Round Head, while shooting both heads direct. I found that the Round Head gave about 1 1/2 stops less light. In fact, I found the round head to give only 1/2 more light than the Ving 860ii. Using the head directly is the way I would use the AD200 in a run-and-gun situation outdoors in the sun. For me a better option is the bulb with the 5" reflector. It gives a better patron of light than the Fresnel head does but at the same power output. The only downside to the 5" dish is that it is not as easy to gel. To me it looks like Godox has put a very diffuse lens on the head to give a very even light spread. This has the effect of soaking up a lot of the light. I am hoping that somebody (not me) is brave enough to open the head and remove the front lens and see how the light pattern looks and would the dome work as the diffuser instead. Would that give more light output and how would the light patron look?
This isn't surprising, the Fresnel head is 35mm. You shouldnt expect light output from a narrow Fresnel head to be close to the wide and even round head. The Fresnel head is designed to concentrate it's light to the center which is why it looks so harsh, and meters so much more (when metered direct).
This Elinchrom convert is super late to the Godox party (but that's cool right?) but amazed at the efforts Robert goes to in order to provide the community with detailed and refreshingly honest info. Thanks so much for making my transition to the Godox ecosystem a pleasure!
This is the type of content I struggle to find, Straight to the point, side by side tests and precise numbers, not any assumptions. I just bought a couple of AD200 with the B2 head and can't wait to receive/shoot with them :-)
Great work and thanks for all the time you put into those tests!
Happy to help!
This was a great breakdown, thanks. Also, in my opinion, shows just how powerful those little AD200's are. There is a reason they are so popular!
Sure are! Still think it's the best lighting tool for location photographers on the market.
@@robhallphoto Definitely a great setup: 2xAD200's provide a very versatile and powerful travel configuration. Add 1 or 2 860's and you get a complete affordable lighting kit.
@@robhallphoto Totally agree. I shoot a lot on location and never had too little power. The only thing I miss is a (descent) modelling light
Prefer pro or non pro? Price difference is quite significant
@@budstran2121 I got both. The pro and non pro version. And in my opinion you don't need the pro version. I didn't see the better color consistency and the better interface isn't worth the 100 Dollors more.
Brilliant presentation! Maybe as a quick summary, for the Godox world where I do all of my flashing these days:
- With the TT600/685/etc as a baseline...
- The 350 is 1/2 the power
- The AD200 is about twice the power (depending on head)
- The AD400 is a tad more than 4x the power, and
- The AD600 is slightly less than 8x the power.
(or am I missing something?)
Thanks for the video. Especially a huge thank you for tabulating the results in the description instead of forcing viewers to watch through.
I currently own four AD200 (including one AD200 Pro) and two AD-B2. I'm very happy with them per se, I just find them difficult to pack and I was wondering if it would make sense to replace the setup with an AD400 or AD600. Other than convenience (which cannot be overlooked), AD400 is less powerful and more expensive, while AD600 (and Pro) is even more expensive and still just barely more powerful.
@@01r1sh I actually found a suitable carrying case for them.
I had an old Naneu Pro Correspondent 400 that I didn't use that much anymore (since now I carry my camera gear in a backpack). After removing the gear, I fit in all stuff vertically (like you would put lenses) and the AD-B2 to the sides of the bag. I carry the bare bulbs in the front pocket.
The only problem that remains is that I still don't have a way to carry either the protective hoods or the reflectors.
@Robert Hall Photography
Well done for this awesome comparison video. Great to see performance analysis and comparative advantages of the (in my case) 3 AD200 options:
- Fresnel Head
- Round Head
- Bare bulb
And to add to that, the extra power of the bare bulb when used in the AD-B2 (due to the silver reflector plate).
What I’ve also found is the extra power of the bare bulb when used with the standard reflector.
Thank you so much for providing this very important information! 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
You're welcome!
As your other video "What Godox Flash do you need to OVERPOWER The SUN", this is a so valuable information, with so much and usefull data.... As an amateur, all this information is super useful when, due to my low budget I am uncertain about what light to buy ... A while ago I bought a V860, but I always thought that what would be better for me is the AD600 (I kind of specializing in ballet, circus, and athlete portrait photography) ... but of course, it is very expensive. With all this information, I see that an AD200 and later buy another AD200, will give me results very close to an AD600, making a more phased outlay.... Don't you think?
Thanks for all your valuable content!!!
Thanks a lot Robert! I appreciate your time and effort that went into this research!
Great review. I was on the fence between the AD400pro and a second AD200pro/B2. Going with the latter
I was riding the fence on getting the AD600, but I opted for the B2-2x AD200 for the versatility of only needing one AD200. I just turn one of them off on the B2. Nice work.
You have no idea how much you helped me, thank you!
Great video summary.
Can you please do a similar one when HSS is used in speeds of 500,1000,2000,4000,8000
So that we will all finally know how much power loss there is when HSS is used.
Since I guess head type (round barebalb, etc) have same power loss in HSS then the table should be much shorter
Ad200pro is my way to go. I can bring it easily anywhere.. I can hand hold it even with the soft box.. it's powerefull enough.. haven't tested yet but very excited to do so this weekend 😊
Exactly what I wanted. These numbers. Thank you big time!
Thank you for doing this work. Very useful info
You're welcome!
@@robhallphoto Definitely one of the The most practical Photography channels on the planet. I appreciate you leaving the clown and fluff outside.
Thank you! I'm going for adb2 with ad200 x2. Only half stop less than ad600
I did the same. I still use the AD B2 for one AD200 because it provides a little more power. Very versatile set up.
thank for review, i had confused what mean of the 1/10 like " V1 F5.6 1/10 " thank you
Thanks for the in-depth update Robert, appreciated 👍
I have 2 roundheads and they differ half a stop at full power.
My supplier finds this within the tolerances.
It is fine to work with but one roundhead is apparently not the other.
Thanks Rob for testing.
That's a huge difference, I don't think that should fall within tolerances, thats enough to make it almost identical l to the V1 (if yours more powerful one is the same as mine). I would wonder if the reflector behind the bulb is screwed up, because all 3 of mine just metered the same
Given the advantage the ad-b2 provides, single ad200 on ad-b2 might be an interesting number as well?
Good review as always but I have a question. If you were doing portraits at night time using a double diffused 38inch softbox not to far from the subject, would you recommend the V1 or AD100? I have some AD200 but FJH suggests that they were to powerful for him, even on the lowest power.
hey bud im looking at getting a speed light for outdoor portrait work, modelling shoots, family portraits. I was looking at getting a soft box with the ad200pro, but should I go for the ad 4 or 600pro instead not really wanting to upgrade if one light isn't powerful enough I don't shoot in direct sunlight usually golden hours sunrise sunsets etc. thanks
I have a couple Flashpoint versions of the V1 and maybe I missed it, what was the zoom setting for these when tested? Maybe the softbox makes this point mute? I'm looking at getting the AD-200, with regards to the Fresnel option, I take it it's not adjustable? The compactness and options with that flash make it almost a no brainer, I think I'll get one. Great job btw, like your technical presentation and attention to detail for your experiments. Thank You!! SE Michigan? I'm over on the west side of the state.
The AD200 is default a 35mm Fresnel, and you are right cannot be adjusted. All speedlights were set to there widest zoom setting for the test.
Robert Hall Photography thanks for replying, that’s what I thought. This flash seems like a good all around tool, mine arrives next week. Thanks for all your content, very informative!
Thanks for doing all this testing Robert.
I'm curious to see what you would get out of two AD200+AD-B2 and the extension cables VS To AD200 in the AD-B2. It's nice to get the weight lower on a stand/boom but at what power loss I wonder.
Since they are wired independently, you can assume each would lose .4 stop, and therefore the AD-B2 would lose .4 stop total from the result I got in this.
Quick and simple results ! Thanks
Very nice. Do you know how well the AD-B2 (with 2 bulbs) compares in HSS to the AD600pro? Similar comparative results, or does the use of HSS result in a bigger difference between the AD-B2's and the A600pro's outputs?
It's going to be a very similar light loss with both in HSS.
Robert Hall Photography Awesome. Thank you!
You didn't mention, but I'm guessing you measured multiple pops and averaged the results for each light. Is that correct? Some lights are very consistent, and others not so much, which is why I'm asking.
I do 5 out of habit but, there's no average figure on these because every X series godox light stays consistent within .1 stop when repeated at the same power level.
ISO 100 SS 1/250 & F5.6 for V2 flash. Does the values stay same for 24Mp APS-C DSLR.
As always, great video. One question, you mention that fresnel heads will have higher output in a direct modifier. Does that mean that it's not suggested to use them in indirect octoboxes etc? I have 2 v860ii and usually use them in indirect softboxes. I rarely if ever use direct as I was under the impression I would have too much of a hard quality of light. Or maybe it's better to use these lights in direct but very diffused (multiple layers) modifiers?
If you put speedlights in a direct modifier with single diffusion, they will have more specular highlights than a barebulb equivalent.
From what I've seen Double diffused softboxes the difference is very little, but still present. Indirect is definitely the closest you'll get to matching a barebulb that is direct.
I get the 600 and 600 pro have the same power but I believe and correct me if i'm wrong. People get the pro because of the faster recycle time.
There could be a number of reasons, I care about color stability way more than I care about recycle time, so that's the biggest advantage to me. Some people like the significantly brighter (4x) modeling lamp. Others buy because of the improved bulb design (horseshoe instead of recessed helical). I'm sure it's a different combination of the perks for everyone who made the decision.
Hye Rob, im looking to add more power to my portrait photography, currently now im work with ad200 pro and godox v1. as my budget limited to ad400pro and ad600bm, which will better suit for me, especially for outdoor portrait session. never test both ad600bm and ad400pro, portability not an issue here. but really need some advice and opinions from you, which should i buy? or its necessary to add ad600pro rather than ad400 and ad600bm. ttl never an issue as myself always prefer to control the light manually.
I would try to identify how much more power you need than the 200 pro. Push your light as far back as you want to be able to use it and take a 1/1 test, does your flash need to be 1 stop brighter? 2?
The AD400 Pro will get you the one stop, anything more and you need the 600 pro.
As for not needing TTL and Pro vs. non pro, in the US, there is a Flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro manual, which has no TTL and is cheaper than the one with TTL. Outside the US I don't think that exists, so you're stuck weighing the Pro vs AD600BM. If the increased color accuracy, faster recycle speed, or brighter modeling lamp aren't necessary to you, sticking with the original AD600BM is a tremendous value!
Hey Robert, can you update this list with the newest AD300 Pro with its default reflector, and the AD-R14 reflector? I shoot almost exclusively with a barebulb, and are curious to see how much difference is it between 300 and ad200. Thanks!
The AD300 pro is .5 stop more powerful than AD200. I covered it in my first AD300 pro video.
Hi Robert
Thanks. Useful info. I have tried to do my own tests too, on occasion, to see what light pattern is and power hit when using under various conditions. Agree that roundheads come at a power hit vs bare bulb but accessory R1 kit is neat to be able to use with multi light setups where you dont need to max out power on every head. I found my Seconic meter sometimes differed by 1/10 stop on occasions - that might be where a head is say circa N stops plus say 3.4/10. Thus, although we can't measure 1/100ts I suspect that sometimes a smidge less power resolves at say f5.6 3/10 or with theoretically a 2/100 increase (electronics variance) it might read rounding up at say f5.6 4/10.
Could this sort of factor account for some slight oddities like 5/10 stop power loss of EC200 cable vs lower loss of it's 'big brother' 2/10? From my own tests, which directionally were similar, I couldn't quite replicate a half stop loss using EC200 cable - but then I only measured that using round heads on AD200 (not bare bulb) which themselves seem to have an effeciency hit vs bare bulb.
Do like idea of being able to use 2 x AD200s with AD-B2 (price, flexibility, standardisation and portability) vs say one AD400 or AD600. I had wondered about buying AD600 pro but with 3 x AD200s and one AD-B2 already owned just buying a 4th and/or 5th AD200 might make more sense than changing to AD400/600 heads especially as I mostly use on location and have to lug all kit needed.
Thank you for this and all reviews you do!
I was surprised at the loss when using the EC200. I happened to check Adorama and saw they have a V1 and a V2 for their XP-200. They claim the V2 (for $10 more) works with the TwinHead. Curiously, I also saw where they claim the V1 has "No energy loss," but that claim is missing for the V2. Can there really be an energy loss difference between the two adapters? How does the EC200 compare to Flashpoint's versions?
Hi Robert, I’m trying to understand strobes and power differences. Pretty new to this. The AD400 and Ad600 power difference in watts is 1.5 times (400x1.5 = 600). But if your measurement shows that it’s 7/10 of a full stop darker, so the AD600 is 1.7 times brighter despite being 1.5 times more powerful? Doesn’t that mean the AD400 is underperforming?
The AD400 Pro has 2/3 (66%) of the watts as the AD600 Pro. and it is .7 stops less powerful. That would be exactly what one would expect from the watt seconds.
question: if one has only budget for 1x AD200 Pro, strategically should one invest in 1x AD200 Pro or buy 1-2x TT685 (or V860II) and save up to then buy the AD200 Pro? If the aim is to have 3 fully "fully working flash" in the end. because i think the AD200 Pro alone will need the godox ak‑r1 kit to handle different situations. while if one purchase 2x TT685 (or similar) one will have budget to buy some accessories kit right now (parabolic softbox, grid, gels, barn door, etc) to get the result wanted.. really appreciate your answer. thanks in advance.
First, If budget is a concern I'd buy the AD200 instead of the AD200 Pro. I'd buy TT600's first instead of TT685 because TTL is far from a necessity, get whatever modifiers you want, then I'd add the AD200.
This is very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the video..Its a great help..Please tell us can we use two TT685 to match the power of one AD 200?
Not quite. You'd need 3
@@robhallphoto Does that mean, ONE TT685 is equivalent to 66.66 watts (?) of power? Where as the GODOX ad200 is 200 watts (?)?
How to use two or more flashes. My trigger (X-Pro) connects only one flash (Godox) V1 with V860 II the other does not connect. Who can show how to do this? When I connect another flash in group "B", the current flash in group "A" turns off for some reason.
Is there any A/C adapter for AD200Pro? Or a way to connect external power to it?
no.
Do you know how much faster the flash durations are for the h1200b? Also, do you think I will have issues with color matching an h1200b at lower power with an ad200pro or ad400pro? Thanks man - hope your channel bringing you abundance
That flash durations are on the flash. If you have two flashes firing at 1/4 power you will get that flash duration, but the equivalent of (almost) 1/2 power output
And unless you're extremely rigid with color, no. Most people don't even realize the speedlights are well over 6000k.
Further reinforces that I’m good with 3 AD400 Pros and 2 AD200s. I was interested in the 600 Pro but the extra weight and size just isn’t worth it.
Excellent test method !
The last flash seems to have the wrong name: it was the QS600II, not the QTS600II, right?
Any recommendation for a portable (no car, just a backpack) nice round softbox for the AD400?
PixaPro 65cm (25.5") 16-Sided Easy-Open Rice Bowl Parabolic Softbox
THANKS A LOT man...
Wish you'd done the AD-B2 with a single power pack and a single bulb. I'd love to know where that slots into these results. I'm expecting around the AD200 Barebulb but slightly better due to the silver reflective nature. F8 4/10 maybe?
Wait, I checked the "Double the flash power!" video and did the math. Equivalent should have been F8 5/10 for AD-B2 with a single bulb
Hopefully you’re still replying to comments on this video. I own the AD600BM, AD400 Pro, and AD200. I have never used the 600 since getting my 400. I’m still new-ish to flash, but I was thinking of just selling my 600BM and getting another 200 with the B2 head. Is there any scenario where I’d need that 600BM over my 400pro or even dual 200s?
There's absolutely a situation...if you needed a brighter light. But, if you don't find you're ever using full power on the 400 and need more, then it's no problem. Like everything it's all based on what/how you shoot.
isn't 1.3 stops more with the ad-b2 more than double the power? i mean one stop of exposure is double the light
How does the modelling light of the AD600 and AD600 Pro compare? How much brighter is it really? This is the only thing I don't love about the AD600. When it is the least bit bright in the room, it is completely unusable.
So ADB2 ( F11 5/10) is powerful than AD400pro (F11 2/10) by 3stop of light right? sorry I dont understand the fraction.
yes
@@robhallphoto thanks man. that just justify my choice. Since I already have 1 ad200pro, I went with AD-B2 & buying another AD200pro to pair it rather than buying one AD400pro. just ordered it cant wait for it to arrive.
What are your thoughts on AD200 pro? Worth the upgrade?
Great video like always! May I ask what light setup did you use for it? Very even lighting.
As a key light? 200 square feet of diffused window.
It's just the entrance to my studio which is all glass and has diffusion on it so you cant see inside.
When you see the background have moving shadow patterns, that's a car driving by with the sun reflecting off it. But the diffusion is so strong it doesnt really show up on me.
@@robhallphoto Thank you, I do a lot of Photogrammetry ( 3D scanning) and looking for the source of very even, shadow less light setup.
Still love the 360
Love my 360 also! There are just something’s I can’t do with the ad200 that makes the 360 a better choice for an event.
It is interesting bare bulb and fresnel for AD200 have the same output.
which cam and lens shot this? and can you share a link to the focus rod?
35mm 1.4 Zeiss on A7 III.
Softbox:
ruclips.net/video/PYMeokki9MY/видео.html
I recently purchased the ad600 pro non TTL from adorama. I already have the AD-B2 with the 2 ad200 lights. Now I'm thinking I should return it because the have practically the same output
"practically", but also not even close
A little confused about that reply. I apologize
@@masilva0606 everything from the little AD200 to the AD600 is within 1.5 stops of light, which is all relatively close. Yes the combined 400 watts of the AD-B2 (paired with it's reflective back) is close to the output of an AD600 Pro, but the gap is still respectable, especially when you consider the AD600 Pro can recycle that power way faster.
Sorry, my initial response was way too vague!
Whether the zoom on the V350, V860II and V1 is set to 35mm as a fixed zoom position with the AD200 round head?
V860ii and V350 are at their widest point to better match with omnidirectional bulbs.
@@robhallphoto A very interesting comparison is between AD200Round and V1, only about half f-number (0.6). In the scenario of buying one V1 (on-camera) and two AD200Pro (off-camera), the question is whether it is better to add the Round head for the AD200 or another V1 (round, spare battery, back-up on camera flash) with AK-R1 for off-camera on Events, and two AD200Pro use with Fresnel and Barebulb heads.
@@robhallphoto It would be very interesting to see the comparison of AD200Round and V1. If the difference in the need for a soft light is only 0.6 f, I assume that for the needs of the hard light V1 with a narrower zoom, would be around the intensity of the AD200, with or without grids. For soft light modifiers, it is certainly a better Barebulb.
fantastic!
Will you do a Godox AD200 PRO review? I’ve seen one already.
Down the road yes, but I'm not going to address it early until I have a final production model in my hands. Too much changed in the V1 for me to continue discussing their products early. It just leads to errors in my content that misinform people.
Robert Hall Photography Thanks for replying! And I’ll look forward for it.
How long does it takes to shoot the entire comparison part? Looks like a pizza recess kind of thing.
It took me about an hour and some change. A lot of the time is grabbing the lights, making sure they are in the right channel and group, doing about 10 full recycles first to make sure they are warm (some like the 360 haven't been used in forever), then swapping them inside the modifier.
@@robhallphoto got rid of my 360 in november, can't bring myself to carry a strobe, battery pack and stand bracket anymore. I guess now it takes you less time since you've done it many times but I guess you gotta put out the work just to avoid trolls in the comment section.
@@makatron I'm done with the 360 myself. I used it once last year on location the day after I broke 2 AD200s. My 360ii permanently lives in the studio now.
@@robhallphoto I'd rather take 2 AD200 than ever EVER use the 360 outdoors.
Perhaps we can start using phrases like "output" or "energy" comparison, because it isn't "power"? :-)
well, it's what people search.
@@robhallphoto yes, that makes sense.
First. Robert Hall Godox video. I’m tuned in for a nice one.
Good stuff.
any idea when the v1 will be released?
I'm not sure when the shipments arrive, but since I received the production sample it's definitely not long.
V1? Anything to do with the ad200?
@@southerncharity7928 V1 is the new round head speedlight Godox is releasing. I pre-ordered on adorama weeks ago but no word on shipment yet
Hi can the AD200 be mains powered.
No
Ad200 with fresnel head more powerful than the barebulb?? I don't understand these results
Fresnel heads are always more powerful in the center because they concentrate light more to the center.
🙏👍
I am very disappointed with the Round Head.
Comparing the Fresnel head to the Round Head, while shooting both heads direct. I found that the Round Head gave about 1 1/2 stops less light. In fact, I found the round head to give only 1/2 more light than the Ving 860ii. Using the head directly is the way I would use the AD200 in a run-and-gun situation outdoors in the sun. For me a better option is the bulb with the 5" reflector. It gives a better patron of light than the Fresnel head does but at the same power output. The only downside to the 5" dish is that it is not as easy to gel.
To me it looks like Godox has put a very diffuse lens on the head to give a very even light spread. This has the effect of soaking up a lot of the light. I am hoping that somebody (not me) is brave enough to open the head and remove the front lens and see how the light pattern looks and would the dome work as the diffuser instead. Would that give more light output and how would the light patron look?
This isn't surprising, the Fresnel head is 35mm. You shouldnt expect light output from a narrow Fresnel head to be close to the wide and even round head. The Fresnel head is designed to concentrate it's light to the center which is why it looks so harsh, and meters so much more (when metered direct).
lets make a new one for 2022 😀😀😀😀