it also helps make sure you get all the marks off from previous grit. If your going horizontal and see some slight scratches vertical you know those are deeper from the previous grit
If you cut some nibs from the runner the piece came from, put some Tamiya cement in a separate container, and mix the nibs in, it'll melt them down, and you use THAT as the glue, then after it dries, you use a knife to cut off the excess. It'll probably safe your fingertip joints from the squeezing, and some time from the sanding. You'll have to sand a little bit, and polish it up, but nowhere near as much
Afiq Haizi well his nails ARE bad, but beside that.. Way too much effort.. Simply run the cement, the extra thin one is better over the seam and then file it down with 240 and finer.. Quicker n easier
another tip : you can literally save up almost 3/4 of the time you needed to sand if you cut the excess bulge with a cutter/carving knive first, also it's going to make your sanding much more "clean"
alec cap sorry for this stupid question but can you use normal clear glue for this method of yours? I am very new to this so I will appreciate some help.
@@warrior8954 Difference between what he used and regular glue, is that this stuff actually bonds the plastic together into one piece. Thus why it's called plastic cement.
I usually prefer Mr. Hobby cement over Tamiya One... Also I use the hobby knife to slice off the garden glue part to let it become flatter than only sand it. Save more time.
That screen shot was deceptive. When looked at head-on we csn still see the seam without even trying. But, for the final view, he angled the piece so that the light glare covers up what he wasn't able to get rid of. I'm sure it looks a lot better after all the work he put in, but he's still using lighting tricks to hide whst he wasn't able to get rid of when making the thumbnail.
The light clrarly shows that the surface is smooth, and that’s all you care about when painting. A little difference in the color of the plastic when there was the separation line means nothing
if i had to start sawing with a 600 I'd back up a grit step to 400. or 180 until im near the surface. and light pressure. let the sandpaper do the work. when im using the proper grit a few swipes is all it takes.
I believe the P means its using the Euro designation for grit. For example I think P2000 is the same as a standard 1000 grit sandpaper en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper
@@alzeuselric1997 I do a lot of 40k big models. Cross filing is going lateral across the gap and using the plastic shavings to fill the hole instead. Plastic glue while can work this way is more work than it's worth for that instance.
Hmm I built a kit and used the glue recommended in the manual to assemble it fully, is it too late to do seam line removal? It's not gunpla, the kit asked for glue from the beginning
Good work, but that takes too long. It doesn’t help that a fair amount of seam lines on a lot of kits have recessed panels. It would be cool to sand and polish the plastic all around, but it’s near impossible to give it all that shiny look. Use the ultra thin Tamiya cement, and then go over the model with Testors Ultra High Gloss Cleat Lacquer.
Lee boi its because the cement changes the color of the plastic. So it looks like its there but the surface is perfectly smooth. The only way to fully hide it is to paint over it.
If you want your seamline to not really disappear, then yeah, do this. Really though as a beginner myself, I think I'd rather put the extra time with using putty to make the seamline actually disappear, not only the illusion of dissapearing in the right lighting.
I heard some where that in order to sand properly you need to do it in one direction and not go back and forth as I have seen in the video. I could've been given wrong information though.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Tip: Change the direction you're sanding in every time you change grits. You will take off less material and achieve your goal quicker.
yes and maybe also start with P400 paper, but first use an exacto knife to drag of some of the glue.
THANK YOU. My teacher back in school told me the same thing during a polishing lesson.
it also helps make sure you get all the marks off from previous grit. If your going horizontal and see some slight scratches vertical you know those are deeper from the previous grit
thankyou
Why does this comment section seems so sketchy...
Am I being fooled?
That was the most intense 30 seconds of separating parts I've ever seen.
SLIghtier The music makes it better
Lmao it is
Just boss music all of sudden when you realize the part will break if you not careful.
For a second there I was hoping he was going to use the sandpaper for his nails. 🤣🤣🤣
Wsp g
If you cut some nibs from the runner the piece came from, put some Tamiya cement in a separate container, and mix the nibs in, it'll melt them down, and you use THAT as the glue, then after it dries, you use a knife to cut off the excess. It'll probably safe your fingertip joints from the squeezing, and some time from the sanding. You'll have to sand a little bit, and polish it up, but nowhere near as much
nice idea I will try it. Thanks.
I remember when I first saw someone do this. So simple yet so genius.
What if your painting it then it wont matter right
@@toosmooth6124 The point is to remove seam lines, paint won't really cut it alone
@@St4rTr3v1Ut10n but he removed it with cement
This guys nails made me very uncomfortable lol but great vid
You'd think he'd bother to have clean hands and trim those nails - fricking vile.
@HyperDrive you heard it here first folks, cutting your nails is gay.
@HyperDrive calm down.
@@nf4866 I guess being hygienic is gay now haha
This is convenient for him since he has parts separators for nails.
Thanks for the tip. Only 1000 pieces to go.
Its been 4 years, u done?
legend has it, he's still removing the seam lines
@@dysfunctional_hands Yeah… had a baby so at least 18 more years.
@@Phoenix-gi9kx nope. Spend all my time on car parts and baby now.
Thank you for this video, it gives me more confidence to actually start my kits!
"dudes went here for the tutorial*
*critiques nails*
yeah pretty lame bunch of girls these days
yes but they are rather disgusting, and when I se them close up on my 65 inch 4K TV its to much to handle.
@@Lofvars83 ok we get it u rich.. then ?
@@arandomfish5517 Haha, that´s not my point at all, we live in 2019, a 65 inch 4K TV is not much money now a days, I live on welfare.
@@Lofvars83 so you're a parasyte. Your opinion on anything doesn't matter at all.
was watching at the comments for some opinions and all I see is that people are ranting about the uploaders nails lol.
Afiq Haizi feelsbad lol
Yeah.
Afiq Haizi well his nails ARE bad, but beside that.. Way too much effort.. Simply run the cement, the extra thin one is better over the seam and then file it down with 240 and finer.. Quicker n easier
I was gonna say the same thing...
Afiq Haizi i guess, the sand paper should be his nails lol
another tip : you can literally save up almost 3/4 of the time you needed to sand if you cut the excess bulge with a cutter/carving knive first, also it's going to make your sanding much more "clean"
That's a grade a way to make those polycaps go into orbit and we all know the pain of finding a lost part.
Great job, especially for a quick demonstration!
I know that long nails used as a prying tool, but..... 🤢
Anyway, likes your vid. Very informative and helpful. 😊
Much easier and a lot less fuss, use the edge of a razor. Glue as usual, file off rough edges and mould bumps, scrap with the razor edge. Works for me
alec cap sorry for this stupid question but can you use normal clear glue for this method of yours? I am very new to this so I will appreciate some help.
@@warrior8954 Difference between what he used and regular glue, is that this stuff actually bonds the plastic together into one piece. Thus why it's called plastic cement.
i don't think anybody has this much time on their hands even us gunpla builders
The video was useful and the comments are entertaining
Thx I'm satisfied now
Can you use anything else if you dont have the tamiya equipment? Like can you use sandpaper?
Great tutorial!....but when it was finished you could still see where the sea line was
It didnt matter but as soon as i enlarge my display WOW! BTW great tutorial thnks bro! Really helpful
I usually prefer Mr. Hobby cement over Tamiya One... Also I use the hobby knife to slice off the garden glue part to let it become flatter than only sand it. Save more time.
Do you do this before painting? newbie here
Patience is the key
It's an outstanding end result.
When using the Tamiya cementing glue, what is considered a good ventilated area?
To the point where it doesn't stink up the entire room. Like if there is a slight feint odor, that's alright. Know what I mean.
@@umpalumparcool I think I do. I've messed with it a few times, but always wearing a mask while I do.
Good stuff guy. great outcome 👍
Amazing job on that polish box or block thingy
Good video dude, thanks for the information. Been using a kind of similar version to this for a while but the sanding really brings it out
That screen shot was deceptive. When looked at head-on we csn still see the seam without even trying. But, for the final view, he angled the piece so that the light glare covers up what he wasn't able to get rid of. I'm sure it looks a lot better after all the work he put in, but he's still using lighting tricks to hide whst he wasn't able to get rid of when making the thumbnail.
Francisco Chavez if u paint u see nothing
The light clrarly shows that the surface is smooth, and that’s all you care about when painting. A little difference in the color of the plastic when there was the separation line means nothing
what is polishing box? i cant found that tool :(
It seams to work pretty well
Nice job, seams suck. And thank you Tarmacffs, I wondered about that.
hi i am planning to build barbatos lupus full mech. can we still pull this out when we want to dismantle the parts?
if i had to start sawing with a 600 I'd back up a grit step to 400. or 180 until im near the surface. and light pressure. let the sandpaper do the work. when im using the proper grit a few swipes is all it takes.
does the P600 or P800 on the abrasive mean the grit of it?
I believe the P means its using the Euro designation for grit. For example I think P2000 is the same as a standard 1000 grit sandpaper en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper
He did a very good job and thx for the tips
This video is good,it helps a beginner how to fix seams lines.Thank you for the vid:D
Thanks from Brazil for this video!
I do have the green extra thin cement only. does it work instead of the showed white one from the video?
Tamiya abrasive can use for nubmark ?
The first 40 seconds were legit the most uncomfortable of my life watching you dig your nails in. I was waiting for one to rip off.
i like this but does the dramatic song really necessary?
why wouldnt you use a gap filler instead?
i can still see the seam. does a coat of paint and top coat hide it?
huge nails are a builder's greatest tool
huge nails!? so they grow crosswise too?
Where can I find the polishing box?
Can you brush it on the join and wipe off the extra?
Where can i get thr polishing box?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but he sanded down way too much. It changed the shape and look of the piece...
how do u get rid of seams if u have to airbrush each piece
Can I suggest you try Revel contact professional
Great video
Hi i'm new at this when should i remove the seamlines? because I'm planning to spray paint the gunpla first before combining it.
Paint it after. No sense in painting it first if you're going to have unsightly gaps and smears from the cement.
You first need to make sure to grow your nails like the guy in the video.
WAY more work than just cross filing and using the bits to plug the hole.
I'm a newbie to gunpla, what's cross filing?
@@alzeuselric1997 I do a lot of 40k big models. Cross filing is going lateral across the gap and using the plastic shavings to fill the hole instead. Plastic glue while can work this way is more work than it's worth for that instance.
Yes, those pesky "seem" lines. That typo in the thumbnail is gold.
Which kit was that?
Shocking horror tutoriol of the century goes to ...
Just ask can it be dissamble again after it finished?
No,because the plastic was melted in the process
Dude, could you please add the links to buy these tools?
wah so good uh? very nice!
Wait hold on, if this takes 6 minutes to do, then every piece is going to take fifteen years...
How about Mechanicore.... Oh god
200 pieces- 20 hours- quik maf
Welcome to the hobby
Awesome video thanks for uploading it and is that gundam 00 music playing?
Whether it can be with glue that knows answear please ????
my teacher thank you
Is this what that rat dude from Harry Potter did in his free time
6:00 it’s improved but I can definitely see where the seem line was, needs painting.
May i know where did you buy your polishing box or what grit it has?
Where can i buy the polishing box
One part down. only forty left to go!!
Where did you buy the sanding / polishing sponge?
Hmm I built a kit and used the glue recommended in the manual to assemble it fully, is it too late to do seam line removal? It's not gunpla, the kit asked for glue from the beginning
Joe Jensen if it's like a IMS kit were it makes you glue the kit together then it doesn't matter you can still sand it and do a steamline removal.
😂😂 Can you imagine this dude preparing your food? Bon Appetit! 😂😂
How am i supposed to put that part now? Or should i put the parts together then file it? will that be too messy? Thanks!
Good work, but that takes too long. It doesn’t help that a fair amount of seam lines on a lot of kits have recessed panels. It would be cool to sand and polish the plastic all around, but it’s near impossible to give it all that shiny look. Use the ultra thin Tamiya cement, and then go over the model with Testors Ultra High Gloss Cleat Lacquer.
How would you prime and paint beyond this, especially if this was part of a bigger piece? Just mask what you don't want primed?
any tips in regards to the GP-03 Stamen and dendrobium to get the spring loaded pods to pop out better?
But the shape of the model will be different right
Ware can I get that polishing box???
amazon
Can we still use sanding sticks (240,800 and 2000 grit) on seam lines like on your removing nub marks video?
can you use super glue instead of cement?
No
Wow great job but I bet it would take forever to do the whole robot that way, worth it though after your done!
cement but doesn't that mean the pieces are stuck together permanently?
I suggest you to trim the join before applying cement and press it. It will stick closer and firmer. The join is for beginners only. Trim it off.
is "the join" the peg that enters the hole to mate the two pieces?
Lps dh lekatkn kita boleh tanggalkn balik ke?
What is a polishing box called? Where can I buy one?
オイラはヤスリかけてから#400から始めて、#2000～#3000のクロスかけて、ラストはコンパウンドの中目、細目で磨いてフィニッシュ。
Konpaundo yori juutansan so-da to supa gu-ru no hou ga yasukunai?
I tried that before, the seam will sink in when you paint it, still needed to be puttied
You probably put too much so it ate through, also you might’ve cut too much of the nub off so it sunk, leave a bit of nub if u gonna cement
Did you use a paint thinner that is also a plastic cement chemical
Nice And smooth
would this also be good for sharpening edges?
Just do you're best, fam.
Why do you need to use quite so much Tamiya cement?
You can still clearly see the line. And taking a picture with the glossy side wont change that.
Still better though
problem with sanding is ure losing the sharp edges of the parts. So it kinda look rounded on the edges.
We could still see the line just a little bit but that's OK because it worked out for me when I dir
Lee boi its because the cement changes the color of the plastic. So it looks like its there but the surface is perfectly smooth. The only way to fully hide it is to paint over it.
OK.... but how you put this glued piece in te gundam model?
You connect it after applying the cement then you squeeze it and then sand it
@@charlesv581 is there a way to take it apart in the future without causing too much damage to the plsstic?
@@jensenlopez2944 there is probably no way to do that without damaging anything
I love that music, can you give the link ?? Please comment
do you need to wait for the cement to dry? or just squeeze it while it's wet?
Get some plastic clamps. Squeeze until you notice the plastic melting together, then put a clamp on to hold it tight until it dries.
If you want your seamline to not really disappear, then yeah, do this. Really though as a beginner myself, I think I'd rather put the extra time with using putty to make the seamline actually disappear, not only the illusion of dissapearing in the right lighting.
I heard some where that in order to sand properly you need to do it in one direction and not go back and forth as I have seen in the video. I could've been given wrong information though.
where can i buy the polish box with green and white sections,any link?@Gundam .my
So have hands like golem, got it