I have the Paulk Work Bench II. Needless to say, I purchased the plans and built the bench quite some time ago. Now I watch your videos for information and entertainment. I am retired and when I turn my garage into a woodworking area, at the end of the day I put everything away so my vehicles will fit back into the garage. There is just no room for all the advanced benches and accessories. Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy having the Paulk Work Bench but don't need to worry about taking it to a job site. Just keep posting your improvements!
Just to be clear, the advantage of the 20" guides to you in this situation is that you physically can't either access your table saw on your PSS AND the the other side of the PSB (because neither bench is on casters at the moment, and there is no room to physically be in either location to operate the saws). I ask about the latter in particular because you mentioned that the 20" rails are not as clunky compared to the 30" (which you have trouble supporting for narrow rips). But wouldn't you be able to eliminate virtually any rail hanging off if you were working from the other side of the PSB with one of the longer rails (30" or 50")? I mention this because Hans said the system is designed so that the work is under the rail and the parallel guides lay on top of the plywood and not beyond (if it can be helped). I hope I'm explaining this right, and if I am, I can see how working in the field (or even in your garage or sheshack) you may not have the room or flexibility on occasion to operate from the ideal position (making the 20" very helpful). I would also add that the longer the narrow rip, the higher the chances are that you might make a mistake trying to keep the work up against a table saw fence. The parallel guides in this situation would be more reliable than a table saw in terms of accuracy & repeatability. One other quick question: How awesome is this PSK2, and when do you think the plans will be available for purchase??? I can't wait!
I am not clear on your comment about the 'other side.' The relationship would be the same either way. The PSK2 has been released. stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php 😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop By "other side", I meant that you wouldn't have to use the 20" guides if you were setting up the parallel guide to reference the opposite edge you used in the video. So if you used your 50", for example, referencing the edge closest to the wall (where the camera was), you could cut where you cut without the ends of the guides getting in the way.
@@TheSmartWoodshop the link to the casters does not work on the materials and supplies for the PSK2. When I click on it, a sidebar comes up in chrome that says "Chris Paulk" with a little exclamation icon below it, but it doesn't bring you anywhere.
Is there any risk of inaccuracy using the 20", 30" and 50" guides-FOR THE SAME PROJECT-each having their own dedicated flipstops? There's a memory collar that, assuming the rails are identical (though one reviewer CLAIMS his guide rails of different length sets were not), should be calibrated for both the 20" and 30" guides (but the 20" allegedly require their own). But using two or three sets of flipstops, could parallax error during the calibration process throw off the consistency? I know a lot of companies like the big red one are fond of saying "parallax-free" but wouldn't it be more accurate to say "parallax-less" sort of like the difference between carbon steel and "stainless" steel (which can actually rust, just not as easily)? Or do you really think the the parallax issue is so minimal it would not affect carpentry or woodworking? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm sure I am not the only one wondering about these things.
If you set them all up the same, they should be the same. I mean, use the same index mark to set them all before you start. As for parallax, the pointer has some thickness, so you must decide which face of the pointer you're going to use. Doesn't matter; just pick one and tune the guide to it. Choose which face of the pointer you're going to use, then look straight down at it while you're setting it. I found that with the longer guides you spend some time and effort walking around the ends on long rips, so using shorter guides on narrower rips is what I do. Additionally, bumping the guide while walking around it may knock it out of alignment. Watch that.
Its inspiring to see the master learn new tricks or have an epiphany. Keep it up Ron! Thanks.
😎🤙
I have the Paulk Work Bench II. Needless to say, I purchased the plans and built the bench quite some time ago. Now I watch your videos for information and entertainment. I am retired and when I turn my garage into a woodworking area, at the end of the day I put everything away so my vehicles will fit back into the garage. There is just no room for all the advanced benches and accessories. Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy having the Paulk Work Bench but don't need to worry about taking it to a job site. Just keep posting your improvements!
You should do a video on how you set-up and calibrated the thin strip guilds
ruclips.net/video/87e68kX0QPc/видео.html
I agree 100%. Ill come back for the 4th of July sale and make a purchase with them for all the things I need!
That's exactly what I plan to do. I already took advantage of TSO's Father's Day sale, so I'll come back in a few weeks for the 20" guide rails.
😎🤙
I think you could show this better, how the stops work, how you set up these guides....
Just to be clear, the advantage of the 20" guides to you in this situation is that you physically can't either access your table saw on your PSS AND the the other side of the PSB (because neither bench is on casters at the moment, and there is no room to physically be in either location to operate the saws). I ask about the latter in particular because you mentioned that the 20" rails are not as clunky compared to the 30" (which you have trouble supporting for narrow rips). But wouldn't you be able to eliminate virtually any rail hanging off if you were working from the other side of the PSB with one of the longer rails (30" or 50")? I mention this because Hans said the system is designed so that the work is under the rail and the parallel guides lay on top of the plywood and not beyond (if it can be helped). I hope I'm explaining this right, and if I am, I can see how working in the field (or even in your garage or sheshack) you may not have the room or flexibility on occasion to operate from the ideal position (making the 20" very helpful). I would also add that the longer the narrow rip, the higher the chances are that you might make a mistake trying to keep the work up against a table saw fence. The parallel guides in this situation would be more reliable than a table saw in terms of accuracy & repeatability.
One other quick question: How awesome is this PSK2, and when do you think the plans will be available for purchase??? I can't wait!
I am not clear on your comment about the 'other side.' The relationship would be the same either way.
The PSK2 has been released. stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php
😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop By "other side", I meant that you wouldn't have to use the 20" guides if you were setting up the parallel guide to reference the opposite edge you used in the video. So if you used your 50", for example, referencing the edge closest to the wall (where the camera was), you could cut where you cut without the ends of the guides getting in the way.
@@TheSmartWoodshop the link to the casters does not work on the materials and supplies for the PSK2. When I click on it, a sidebar comes up in chrome that says "Chris Paulk" with a little exclamation icon below it, but it doesn't bring you anywhere.
@@bdm1000 Fixed😎🤙
I love the content. The cartoonish words are distracting though.
They are essential for short form videos but annoying for full length
Is there any risk of inaccuracy using the 20", 30" and 50" guides-FOR THE SAME PROJECT-each having their own dedicated flipstops? There's a memory collar that, assuming the rails are identical (though one reviewer CLAIMS his guide rails of different length sets were not), should be calibrated for both the 20" and 30" guides (but the 20" allegedly require their own). But using two or three sets of flipstops, could parallax error during the calibration process throw off the consistency? I know a lot of companies like the big red one are fond of saying "parallax-free" but wouldn't it be more accurate to say "parallax-less" sort of like the difference between carbon steel and "stainless" steel (which can actually rust, just not as easily)? Or do you really think the the parallax issue is so minimal it would not affect carpentry or woodworking? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm sure I am not the only one wondering about these things.
If you set them all up the same, they should be the same. I mean, use the same index mark to set them all before you start. As for parallax, the pointer has some thickness, so you must decide which face of the pointer you're going to use. Doesn't matter; just pick one and tune the guide to it. Choose which face of the pointer you're going to use, then look straight down at it while you're setting it.
I found that with the longer guides you spend some time and effort walking around the ends on long rips, so using shorter guides on narrower rips is what I do. Additionally, bumping the guide while walking around it may knock it out of alignment. Watch that.
I have calibrated each set and can trust that the cuts will be identical.
@@Lugnut64052 thank you, that's helpful.