Woodpecker products are excellent. I went with Whiteside for the wider slot, which allows me to use a 25mm (1") washer. Since I've switched from knobs to cam clamps, I no longer need the bolt head to be trapped by the t-track, which opened up the opportunity to use the washer.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Totally agree just another option for the clamp size. And I am that thinks Woodpeckers makes really good and really useless overpriced stuff. Was actually reluctant on buying this bit as I try to only buy whiteside. But I am starting to think the cutting tools are worth the price.
I started drifting away a few years back.. I only have a small amount now in the shop. I like home cut tracks Or home cut dovetail tracks.. Much much better
Love the shoutout to my native Hawaii at the end of the video with the “Mahalo” (thank you). Even though you won’t convince everyone, it certainly provides a very viable option. I like having options.
@@TheSmartWoodshopWow! I never knew that. I grew up in Hawaii Kai, lived in Kailua for many years, until I moved to Maui in 1996. We now live in rural Virginia running a Cristian children’s home called Aloha House of Hope. Keep up the good work.
The aluminum T track isn't always straight either. The Incra track I bought turned out bowed. I fixed it, but I am getting that Whiteside router bit next time I make the trip to Woodcraft.
For Europeans with routers that don't take American 1/2 inch bits: the German company ENT makes an excellent T-slot cutter with an 8mm shaft. I bought it through Amazon's German site. Generally ENT's bits are the best I've ever used.
@@TheSmartWoodshop I have a few ENT straight bits with a 12 mm shank, but I've only seen their t-slot cutters with an 8 mm shank. I'll double-check and get back to you on that. The 8mm comes in different versions that can cut slots suitable to M5, M6, M8, or M10 bolts. You can buy them in a set or separately. If you google " ENT 09003 3-Piece HW T-Slot Cutter Set, Optimised for M5, M6 and M8 " (without the scare quotes), you should get a few hits. Personally I think their bits are better than the CMT orange bits, which are otherwise the best I can get hold of where I live.
@@elliasjoel5126 looks like youtube deleted my previous answer, presumably because it contained a link. The part number is 17738; if you search for "ENT 17738" (without the quotation marks), it should come up. I bought the one that makes slots suitable for M8 bolts because a lot of my jigs use M8 t-bolts.
Or pay a company to extrude their own aluminum track that has the internal T-track for tooling and an external T-track to strengthen the mounting and prevent need for screws as you mention in the video. Many companies out there that make extrusion dies(via EDM wire cutting) and can extrude any length you want, up to the extruders limitation or cut to size. As an example, one company I've used in the past for extruded material was Paramount Extrusion in Paramount/Los Angeles area. A die + material run isn't expensive: cost of extrusion die cost, setup charge, plus time and material of the aluminum billets used. They can even have it hardened/anodized for you, too. For a large company that sells this type of product, it's more affordable than you think... end of my PSA.
I note that you use a router that is lifted manually, and requires two spanners to tighten (and a third hand to hold the tool...). As you are interested in speed and accuracy, you may wish to invest in a digital lift. Press a button, and the spindle lifts and locks. Zero it, and exact height is selectable without measures or tools. Add a digital fence, and all manner of cuts and joints are fast and simple.
@@TheSmartWoodshopI've been using the micro jig dovetail system lately. I milled my own little keyway blocks and tapped them for 1/4" threads so I can use the more common sized knobs and such. But those power tech cam clamps look like an excellent option. BTW, never mind the haters. They think they're something that they're not. I have a variation of your smart system and know several others that also have too in some form or other, all of us being pros. So if it's good enough for us then who cares what the nitpickers say.
Used your link for the router bit, unfortunately it is out of stock. I like the idea of using this bit because I am a big fan of the matchfit dovetail clamp system. I will keep checking. Thank you sir.
Yes, I see that. Click back on the video and hit play. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping. Hope this helps, Ron.😎🤙
@@aiistytI checked before purchasing, and there are no less expensive options. There are lots of t-slot bits, but not with this profile. I found a few similar industrial cutters, but they were priced at $250-300. Don't be misled by the name 't-slot'-they're not all the same. I'd ask that you check the facts before making a comment.🤔
@TheSmartWoodshop Interesting idea. Have you tried coating the insides of the wooden slots with something like a hard varnish or Urethane? My concerns with going away from aluminum is the wood tearing out as well as how rough it would be for sliding. Maybe you could cut a foam polybrush to better apply it.
as long as what you are sliding into the t-track is smooth, as it should be, all that will happen is the wood will be burnished. the action is generally pretty smooth. add a film finish to the interior will close the tolerances and might make the tracks feel a bit tight unless you use something very thin. a good quality sharp bit will leave a very clean surface. iv'e tried some cheapo t-track bits and the result was less than satisfactory. the whiteside bits did an outstanding job though. i haven't tried the larger bit he shows in the video though. the quality of the wood you are routing the track into will also impact the final result of course. if you're going into crap plywood, then the aluminum track might be a better option. i've experienced issues with voids in cheaper plywood causing binding for t-bolts and such. at this point i just route the plywood, if i start to notice an issue that is too much trouble, i route it out and install a piece of aluminum track.
Thanks Ron. Bit is awaiting restocking and then will go in the cart! Getting ready to build the first SMART bench with the ultralight and then on to the SMART station! From there, the cradles and the router tables and importantly, the carts! I am looking forward to being mobile!
Aahhmmm .... You could have said what needed to be said in about 4 minutes. What a knack for spending an extra 13 minutes telling how you re-invented the wheel. If you would shorten your videos we might have the time and desire to watch more of them. Thanks for the info.
No lie. I could have clicked off after a few seconds instead of fast-forwarding several minutes. He seems so proud of cutting his own T-track grooves (yawn). If someone landed here to look into T-track alternatives, they already know about T-track. Then he complains about the cost of aluminum track while standing in front of his Kapex saw. Haha. All BS.
I haven't tried making anything with the Gripper Matchfit system. I'm fully committed to the MFT with 20mm holes, which provides me with unlimited clamping options, so the Matchfit system doesn't offer any additional advantages for me. I would imagine that if you search for 'MatchFit' here on RUclips, you'll find plenty of videos about it.
I know that there has been a big problem with T-Track pulling up, when used for clamping. How do you keep the sides of the routed slot from cracking when upward pressure is put on it?
@@paulmcfeeters5554 I guess you mean cutting it deeper, so that the "ledges" are thicker? Problem is, you can only go so deep in 3/4 inch plywood before you are too close to the bottom. Wouldn't that also make the slot more fragile? I guess cutting with a t-slot bit and aluminum t-track both have their advantages and disadvantage.
I for one like it, and personally find aluminum to be pricey and over-rated. I don't hold things down with either wood t-slot or aluminum due to possibility of failure, but for stops and feather boards (yes, kind of holding down) they work pretty well. So with the newer wider bit, if you don't use the cam clamps, what sort of bolt/bolt head would you use? That's a pretty wide slot...
Google "elevator bolt"! Far more contact area inside the slot. Not sure what thread pitch all these fence clamps, roller and feather boards use. Also not sure that the square shoulder on an elevator bolt will prevent the bolt from turning. It looks close. I have the bolts but not bit to try it. Whiteside carbide bits cut like lasers.
Hi Paul If you are still living in Venice Florida, We hope you have survived hurricane Milton ok and family are all safe. The news footage shows how badly the shore was hit.
Yes..But I don't think microjig system accepts festool/dewalt and other track clamps. If you've bought into the microjig system, these would be redundant.
Wear and tear is my concern, and with an insert, it is easily replaced. I will likely use this in some jigs and stick with replaceable track in my permanent fixtures, like my router table. And I think I'll also split the difference and give hardwood insert homemade T-track a try.
Seems like a no brainer for clamping but if you are using Incra fences then you might as well throw those in the bin with your track. I will pick up the cutter for a fixture table.
None of the cheapest Chinese cutters that Amazon sells can hold even a candle to Whiteside Tools router bits. They are truly industrial level router bits that hold their edge nearly forever. I prefer to buy Whiteside router bits over any other brand. Plus I feel good about supporting American jobs first.
Could you clarify, are you making track in the surface and not using any insert? I didn't seen an end result. Does anything go in the wood or are you simply routing a grove in the wood and that alone is the track?
The only thing I did was remove wood; I didn’t add anything. Watch the video again, as it's pretty clear when I run it through the router and then immediately hold it close to the camera.
I'm intrigued by the entire Paulk system. I have my garage woodshop and a small customer base. My question is this. Is the smart system a good option for a personal shop that may or may not go full contractor mode. I like the mobile shop you have but I also like how that setup looks for inside my garage. I'm better with visual storage versus meticulously organized drawers etc etc. I just can't keep up with it without building a mess 😂 I like the quality of your shop furniture, jigs and work stations. Is your system good for a garage shop and my side hustle?
T-track, even in the hell of bad deals that Canada is, is just not that expensive. However, wood can be superior material in certain application, it slides, but does not require much tension to hold things, and conceptually the cut-out should be less than is required to insert a track.
The only plywoods you could do this reliably is Baltic Birch. So in reality you've actually spent more money because you have purchased plywood that is three times more expensive... That's my two cents.
But it’s a far superior product. So for building tools and certain cabinets, it’s a no brainer. But if you are building boxes for a garage, then go cheaper.
It makes this entire video entertaining but not applicable. I was set to buy the Whiteside cutter but it is not available, and its not sure it will ever be again.
I used Keyhole bits to make all my T-slots, because at the time I was too cheap to buy T-tracks... & always had the intent to later upgrade to stronger, more durable aluminum T-tracks. Well that was 3 years ago, & I haven't worn them out yet. I'm still debating if it's worth bothering to build new aluminum tracks.
I would upgrade to this larger T-Track with the angle, which you can cut directly into your existing setup. Aluminum is a downgrade compared to integral tracks cut directly into the workpiece. Slot wall is essentially the same thing and is used commercially. Anyone who thinks aluminum is better likely lacks experience with wood T-Tracks. I've used both for many years, and I would choose a lifetime supply of T-Track router bits over aluminum T-Track any day. In fact, I even have a supplier who offered me aluminum T-Track for free, but I declined. This is just my personal experience, and I have no affiliation with any router bit company or T-Track manufacturer. 😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop The wooden T-tracks I made are 5/8 wide. I even made my own track clamps, which involves a T-bolt bolted to a wood block with a vertical toggle clamp mounted on it. The T-bolt slides through 1 of the mounting holes of the toggle clamp, bolting it to the block, & 1" screws through the topside of the other 3 holes. I haven't had the need for bigger T-slots "yet"... but if I ever do, I'll probably just get the bigger bit.
@@TheSmartWoodshop But why to use such wide cutter. The cutter which makes groove 13mm wide should be wide enough for the clamp. You are saying that you are using wide washer that its stronger, but that is only the case if the thickness of material above the groove is sufficient. If its too thin, then wider groove is more likely its that material above the groove will crack.
Hmmm. I have saved the link to this bit from other YTers who recommended and its perpetually out of stock. Seems like they need to increase production for the demand.
The bit is ½" shank. I don't know the reason behind the design, but was glade I discovered it. I like the daily use of the 1" washer and cam clamp. With the narrower t-track the compressing not a spread out.
I also use alu tracks because quite obviosly aluminium strength is on the safe side while plywood is obviously weaker. It is good to know that small number of people who appeared in this comment section didn't have any problems with plywood T-tracks. Yet. 😀
@@OOTurok Wrong assumption. T-tracks are not used just for stop blocks, but often for clamping purposes. Nobody knows what accident could produce a sudden strong pull of block used for clamping a workpiece. Or for any other purpose.
@@uMpzZ26e03 When you clamp the work piece over top the T-track... the work piece & the track are clamped together, which creates a compression force between them.... thus the pull out force is not physically possible. For that to occur, you would need a lever between the clamped work piece & the track itself.... like a prybar. So for my next question... why would you need to pry a clamped work piece off the T-track?
Wrong again. Clamp I refer is a lever that presses the workpiece on one end of the lever. The other end of clamp is in T-track groove. When workpiece forcefully acts on lever, the T track is obviously under force acting to rotate the t track in the groove. Because we are talking about plywood and not about solid wood, the only resistance t track has is in a couple of top layers, and these are only on one side of t track.
@@uMpzZ26e03 You are NOT supposed to use T-track clamps as levers... because you are inherently weakening your clamping force by doing so. There is no need to use them as levers, & no advantage in doing so. The toe of the clamp is suppose to run through the track under the work piece & the clamping screw. Furthermore, plywood is stronger than solid wood of the same thickness, because the grain of the laminates cross perpendicular to each other. Also... if you manage to apply enough force to tear out the plywood, you would also tear out the tiny screws holding down an aluminum T-track.
Yes it is the 3075 not 3070. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping.
There are hidden dangers in some shortcuts. This one is no different. Buy the track, do it right have it for a lifetime. This shortcut could eventually fail with not so good results. Beware.
@@CMRct This is better than aluminum track, not a short cut. It is time tested and commercially available. This is a prime example of saving money, but getting a superior product. 😎🤙
Always nice to see an American discover technology European use for ages ....is this instances the quick clamps which you can in smaller size on our bicycles
I dont understand haters. Why cant we watch a dang video and have a positive take from it?? Or no take at all??? Everyone is different. Different ideas often spark even more creative ideas. Can we not focus on that?? The world would be bland if we all thought or did the same thing, yet we thrive on tearing down our fellow man (or woman) only to build ourselves up. This is why i hate reading comments. It just shows how shallow we have become. Do better, or at least try to. I personally hate t track and am excited about trying this alternative.
@@user-uj9ic3rr4t some people waste money on stuff they done need.. Ron tries to inspire creativity with working smarter not harder. Me and another on here named Caturd argue often about who knows the Ron Paulk material better. Here is something to think about. Time is money correct? Ron has numerous years of field experience. He is a worker a real worker in the field making real money. 90 percent of woodworking channels on RUclips aren’t about working or making money. They are about spending money. Ron is workmethods, accuracy, productivity, best outcomes. I’m 58 years old I discovered Ron 10 years ago and have watched it all and done most of his builds. I am an Industrial Engineering Technician I know this dude is on point. It’s responsible to show workmethods that a economic friendly. He does it right!!
Because having more than one opinion helps people form their own opinions. If routing a keyhole slot in plywood works as well as T-tracks, very few would buy T-tracks, IMO. I'd think Baltic Birch plywood would hold up the best for using a slot routed into plywood but BB is expensive and not easy to find.
@@OneWildTurkey Because of the difference between "Good to know, here's what works for me..." and "That's crap, THIS is the way..." Same info generating predictable reactions.
@@guyagena8205 Must be a result of not having face to face interactions with enough people any more. That's really sad for the future of the human race.
Cam 2 was hanging around my neck or closer than my eyes to the work when I was setting up and producing the t-track. Check your tape measure if you think 2' is 6.'😎 I am guessing you didn't watch the whole video.
T-SLOT cut into wood will never be as strong as aluminum t-track that is epoxied and screwed in. I've watched some videos showing testing of the routed t-track versus aluminum and both mdf and plywood broke when force was applied. If you have something that is pressing down as you are applying the clamp it will help sustain it but if it's open above it is not as strong as you think it is.
That may be true, but for most the plywood version is strong enough and more versatile (e.g. you can use clamps and cut the plywood to unlimited lengths without worrying about problems making multiple t-tracks flush). Ultimately it is all about preference. One method is not necessarily better than the other if for some people the durability might be an issue; but again, for most quality plywood will hold up just fine.
@@Technomandfw I routed t-slots into my plywood workbench 5 years ago, use it almost every day, and have never had a problem. Just used suitable clamps.
Aluminum would never be as strong as steel, but that doesn't mean steel should be used. If wood is strong enough, it makes no difference that aluminum is stronger if strength is your point of argument. Now, anodized aluminum does look nice, imo! And there's nothing wrong with making your tools look nice if it makes you feel happy. :-)
I’ve been using shop-made t-tracks for 5 years without any issues. Keep in mind that Slotwall is essentially wood panels with t-tracks cut into them, and they work well, supporting heavy items. If I had unlimited, free aluminum tracks, I’d still choose the integral wood track. The benefits of wood far outweigh the drawbacks.
I don't understand your logic. That Festool miter saw may be overkill for most of us woodworkers. However if you make a living building and restoring homes, you need tools that are dead accurate and reliable. I know a couple woodworkers who own Festool products, and they do admit they are expensive. I have NEVER heard any of them ever say that the tool was a waste of money.
Thats a bad analogy and really doesn’t make sense in this case. Ron shows how his solution works better and cost way less. You cannot find tools that cost way less than Festool and also work better. It’s about value, not outright cost.
@@gregghernandez2714, I agree, but also keep in mind many people have had problems with the $1600 Kapex. Spencer Louis, for example, bought three Kapex miter saws over the years, and two of them had beds that were not perfectly flat and that is NOT something that you can fix (so people need to check for that). He gave up on Festool for years after that claiming his DeWALTs-with a quality blade-are just as accurate even if they lack some of the refinements. DeWALT’s DHS790, for example, was/is so accurate it was marketed specifically for making furniture right out of the box and mine cost almost $1000 less! It’s the same one Ron had and recommended for similar reasons. Spencer purchased the KAPEX again recently only because he was building a new miter station and needed its smaller footprint. Sometimes such refinements can be worth it as Ron has also pointed out. It’s all about a matter of preference. But unlike a miter saw, if the plywood is strong enough for someone’s needs (and it will be the vast majority of the time, then I agree it is superior for the reasons he stated. But there is one more problem I’m aware of with the KAPEX. Some uses have stated that their motors have burned out prematurely, but that is true of DEWALT and other companies as well. So the KAPEX may or may not be worth the money, but unless one has experience burning up plywood t-slots in plywood, I agree the comparison with Festool tools is apples and oranges in my opinion.
Oh! I missed the point. You're saying that while I save money in one area, I might spend more in another. 😎 I don't focus on upfront costs; instead, I prioritize value. I’m willing to spend more when purchasing a tool because, over time, I end up spending less than if I had bought a cheaper tool that doesn’t last or offer the precision I need. In the case of shop-made t-tracks, I’m spending less upfront and getting a better product. I don’t spend more than necessary, but at my age, I don’t get swayed by low prices.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Whether doing Indecent Proposal or Woodworking, it is a joy watching you from beginning to end.
Not sure how the hell I found you, but you just provided me with some amazing ideas. Thank you.
Glad to be of service! 😎🤙
Man! I've been doing that for 10 years. Got the bits from Aliexpress. What a joy.
😎
would you have a link to them from Aliexpress?
Which ones are good on Ali?
I'm sold. Thanks
Another problem with aluminum t tracks is intersections. Love the fact I can use the new clamps.
Dave Stanton has a good video about fixing t-track with euro screws. Works well.
You are an incredible teacher! Thank you for your content and constant innovation.
I try to to always use whiteside but did get the Woodpecker t-slot cutter designed for clamps. It works awesome.
Woodpecker products are excellent. I went with Whiteside for the wider slot, which allows me to use a 25mm (1") washer. Since I've switched from knobs to cam clamps, I no longer need the bolt head to be trapped by the t-track, which opened up the opportunity to use the washer.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Totally agree just another option for the clamp size. And I am that thinks Woodpeckers makes really good and really useless overpriced stuff. Was actually reluctant on buying this bit as I try to only buy whiteside. But I am starting to think the cutting tools are worth the price.
So cool! I dabble in metal work, but enjoy your content. Was hoping to see you make a third throw into the waste can 😅. Mahalo.
Thanks Ron...always appreciate you!
Very welcome
I started drifting away a few years back.. I only have a small amount now in the shop.
I like home cut tracks
Or home cut dovetail tracks..
Much much better
😎🤙
Love the shoutout to my native Hawaii at the end of the video with the “Mahalo” (thank you). Even though you won’t convince everyone, it certainly provides a very viable option. I like having options.
@@kiheidude My wife is from Kailua, I am from Moanalua, and our daughter Malia was born there as well. Hawaii will always be home. Aloha
@@TheSmartWoodshopWow! I never knew that. I grew up in Hawaii Kai, lived in Kailua for many years, until I moved to Maui in 1996. We now live in rural Virginia running a Cristian children’s home called Aloha House of Hope. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! That explains all metric references but no discernable accent.
2 minutes of info feels like an hour monologue
The aluminum T track isn't always straight either. The Incra track I bought turned out bowed. I fixed it, but I am getting that Whiteside router bit next time I make the trip to Woodcraft.
Thumbs up on your work truck in the video back drop. Very nice.
For Europeans with routers that don't take American 1/2 inch bits: the German company ENT makes an excellent T-slot cutter with an 8mm shaft. I bought it through Amazon's German site. Generally ENT's bits are the best I've ever used.
Do they make them in 12mm shaft?
@@TheSmartWoodshop I have a few ENT straight bits with a 12 mm shank, but I've only seen their t-slot cutters with an 8 mm shank. I'll double-check and get back to you on that. The 8mm comes in different versions that can cut slots suitable to M5, M6, M8, or M10 bolts. You can buy them in a set or separately. If you google " ENT 09003 3-Piece HW T-Slot Cutter Set, Optimised for M5, M6 and M8 " (without the scare quotes), you should get a few hits. Personally I think their bits are better than the CMT orange bits, which are otherwise the best I can get hold of where I live.
PS - I found some Axminster clamps in England that works really well in routed t-slots. Google "AXMINSTER PROFESSIONAL QUICK ACTION GUIDE RAIL CLAMP".
Which T-slot cutter exactly did you order? I'm from Germany.
@@elliasjoel5126 looks like youtube deleted my previous answer, presumably because it contained a link. The part number is 17738; if you search for "ENT 17738" (without the quotation marks), it should come up. I bought the one that makes slots suitable for M8 bolts because a lot of my jigs use M8 t-bolts.
Hoping yall are prepped and hunkered down with Milton coming.
Or pay a company to extrude their own aluminum track that has the internal T-track for tooling and an external T-track to strengthen the mounting and prevent need for screws as you mention in the video. Many companies out there that make extrusion dies(via EDM wire cutting) and can extrude any length you want, up to the extruders limitation or cut to size. As an example, one company I've used in the past for extruded material was Paramount Extrusion in Paramount/Los Angeles area. A die + material run isn't expensive: cost of extrusion die cost, setup charge, plus time and material of the aluminum billets used. They can even have it hardened/anodized for you, too. For a large company that sells this type of product, it's more affordable than you think... end of my PSA.
Good video- I’m curious if the thin connecting material under the slot has ever become a point of failure for a board? Thanks, keep up the great work.
Not at all
Have you also modified your table saw sled the same way?
Also do you varnish the cuts to prevent moisture swelling the ply?
Yes my CC sled and all of my shop made tools have been recut with this bit.
I note that you use a router that is lifted manually, and requires two spanners to tighten (and a third hand to hold the tool...). As you are interested in speed and accuracy, you may wish to invest in a digital lift. Press a button, and the spindle lifts and locks. Zero it, and exact height is selectable without measures or tools. Add a digital fence, and all manner of cuts and joints are fast and simple.
Looks to be same bit as making slat wall. Good stuff!
Wondering about longevity of clamping t bolts down on plywood vs aluminum. I would expect lots of divots in the slots over time.
I have used my various shop made T-Track tools over 5 years and no divots yet.
Wondering which size of powertec clamps 1/4 or 5/16? Thanks
You can use either, but I use ¼" amzn.to/4etGxlb
@@TheSmartWoodshopI've been using the micro jig dovetail system lately. I milled my own little keyway blocks and tapped them for 1/4" threads so I can use the more common sized knobs and such. But those power tech cam clamps look like an excellent option. BTW, never mind the haters. They think they're something that they're not. I have a variation of your smart system and know several others that also have too in some form or other, all of us being pros. So if it's good enough for us then who cares what the nitpickers say.
Used your link for the router bit, unfortunately it is out of stock. I like the idea of using this bit because I am a big fan of the matchfit dovetail clamp system. I will keep checking. Thank you sir.
There are lots of them some much much cheaper than the one he’s advertising
Yes, I see that. Click back on the video and hit play. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping. Hope this helps, Ron.😎🤙
@@aiistytI checked before purchasing, and there are no less expensive options. There are lots of t-slot bits, but not with this profile. I found a few similar industrial cutters, but they were priced at $250-300. Don't be misled by the name 't-slot'-they're not all the same. I'd ask that you check the facts before making a comment.🤔
@@TheSmartWoodshop Okay, thanks Paul.
@TheSmartWoodshop Interesting idea. Have you tried coating the insides of the wooden slots with something like a hard varnish or Urethane? My concerns with going away from aluminum is the wood tearing out as well as how rough it would be for sliding. Maybe you could cut a foam polybrush to better apply it.
@@nickcody7257 No need to create extra work and cost to solve a nonexistent problem at least with the various plus I have used.
as long as what you are sliding into the t-track is smooth, as it should be, all that will happen is the wood will be burnished. the action is generally pretty smooth. add a film finish to the interior will close the tolerances and might make the tracks feel a bit tight unless you use something very thin. a good quality sharp bit will leave a very clean surface. iv'e tried some cheapo t-track bits and the result was less than satisfactory. the whiteside bits did an outstanding job though. i haven't tried the larger bit he shows in the video though.
the quality of the wood you are routing the track into will also impact the final result of course. if you're going into crap plywood, then the aluminum track might be a better option. i've experienced issues with voids in cheaper plywood causing binding for t-bolts and such. at this point i just route the plywood, if i start to notice an issue that is too much trouble, i route it out and install a piece of aluminum track.
Thanks Ron. Bit is awaiting restocking and then will go in the cart! Getting ready to build the first SMART bench with the ultralight and then on to the SMART station! From there, the cradles and the router tables and importantly, the carts! I am looking forward to being mobile!
@@sdsconstruction 😎👍
That looks an awful lot like the cutter used to cut slat wall. "Whiteside-a 'bit' more money." Well said, sir.
Maybe?
Thx for a great video. I'm doing and have the same bit. Amana also makes great bits but Whiteside is the cream.
Amana, Whiteside, and others are all top notch. My favorite is CMT.
After watching this video, I realized, I’m still gonna use t tracks 🤣
Aahhmmm .... You could have said what needed to be said in about 4 minutes.
What a knack for spending an extra 13 minutes telling how you re-invented the wheel.
If you would shorten your videos we might have the time and desire to watch more of them.
Thanks for the info.
No lie. I could have clicked off after a few seconds instead of fast-forwarding several minutes. He seems so proud of cutting his own T-track grooves (yawn). If someone landed here to look into T-track alternatives, they already know about T-track. Then he complains about the cost of aluminum track while standing in front of his Kapex saw. Haha. All BS.
NIce Video - but shame on you for leaving us hangingon the new Tool You Rock Ron!!! Keep up the great work!
Pretty dam sweet. Im re-doing my small wood working shop. That fits to a T😊
Right on!
363/512 about 18 mm. I like your method. You go in 6 and mid is 6 (I am guessing) and leaves 6 at bottom. Just need to find where to get 18 mm from?
What do you thing are the pros and cons of T-slot vs a matchfit dovetail slot?
I haven't tried making anything with the Gripper Matchfit system. I'm fully committed to the MFT with 20mm holes, which provides me with unlimited clamping options, so the Matchfit system doesn't offer any additional advantages for me. I would imagine that if you search for 'MatchFit' here on RUclips, you'll find plenty of videos about it.
Thanks. Yes, saw a couple of videos featuring that bit, was curious if you tried or liked it!
I know that there has been a big problem with T-Track pulling up, when used for clamping. How do you keep the sides of the routed slot from cracking when upward pressure is put on it?
Deeper T-tracks is how I stop the sides breaking.
@@paulmcfeeters5554how much deeper?
I glue and screw any t-track that gets an upward pull- never had a problem.
@@paulmcfeeters5554 I guess you mean cutting it deeper, so that the "ledges" are thicker? Problem is, you can only go so deep in 3/4 inch plywood before you are too close to the bottom. Wouldn't that also make the slot more fragile? I guess cutting with a t-slot bit and aluminum t-track both have their advantages and disadvantage.
I for one like it, and personally find aluminum to be pricey and over-rated. I don't hold things down with either wood t-slot or aluminum due to possibility of failure, but for stops and feather boards (yes, kind of holding down) they work pretty well. So with the newer wider bit, if you don't use the cam clamps, what sort of bolt/bolt head would you use? That's a pretty wide slot...
Google "elevator bolt"! Far more contact area inside the slot. Not sure what thread pitch all these fence clamps, roller and feather boards use. Also not sure that the square shoulder on an elevator bolt will prevent the bolt from turning. It looks close. I have the bolts but not bit to try it. Whiteside carbide bits cut like lasers.
Also, great video! This is the route (PUN 😂) I intend to go.
Hi Paul If you are still living in Venice Florida, We hope you have survived hurricane Milton ok and family are all safe. The news footage shows how badly the shore was hit.
Do u have links to the cutters? Are these the same as the slots used in slatwalls?
Plesse forgive a newbie for a naive question : Don't these T-slots do basically the same job as the triangular slots used in the Microjig system?
Yes..But I don't think microjig system accepts festool/dewalt and other track clamps. If you've bought into the microjig system, these would be redundant.
Much more friction as well as wear and tear on the track rather than cutting the same dado, insert the aluminum T Track and I'm done forever.
Wear and tear is my concern, and with an insert, it is easily replaced.
I will likely use this in some jigs and stick with replaceable track in my permanent fixtures, like my router table.
And I think I'll also split the difference and give hardwood insert homemade T-track a try.
Seems like a no brainer for clamping but if you are using Incra fences then you might as well throw those in the bin with your track. I will pick up the cutter for a fixture table.
What wood do you use for all your jigs?
@@kellyjohnson8765 12mm plywood
None of the cheapest Chinese cutters that Amazon sells can hold even a candle to Whiteside Tools router bits. They are truly industrial level router bits that hold their edge nearly forever. I prefer to buy Whiteside router bits over any other brand. Plus I feel good about supporting American jobs first.
Could you clarify, are you making track in the surface and not using any insert? I didn't seen an end result. Does anything go in the wood or are you simply routing a grove in the wood and that alone is the track?
The only thing I did was remove wood; I didn’t add anything. Watch the video again, as it's pretty clear when I run it through the router and then immediately hold it close to the camera.
I'm intrigued by the entire Paulk system. I have my garage woodshop and a small customer base. My question is this. Is the smart system a good option for a personal shop that may or may not go full contractor mode. I like the mobile shop you have but I also like how that setup looks for inside my garage. I'm better with visual storage versus meticulously organized drawers etc etc. I just can't keep up with it without building a mess 😂
I like the quality of your shop furniture, jigs and work stations.
Is your system good for a garage shop and my side hustle?
Sean, the SmartWoodshop systems has been building over decades of homebuilding and remodeling.
Kinda like the Matchfit dovetail clamping system.
Thank you for this very high bandwidth video.
Ron, this looks like a fantastic solution~! I'll be picking up the Whiteside bit to try this in my own shop. Thanks for sharing this~!
What is the size of the smaller cutter 1/4 ? I dont have router for 1/2 bit shank .
T-track, even in the hell of bad deals that Canada is, is just not that expensive. However, wood can be superior material in certain application, it slides, but does not require much tension to hold things, and conceptually the cut-out should be less than is required to insert a track.
😎🤙
I don't think most of the people defending aluminum t-track in the comments here have ever priced the SHIPPING for lengths over four feet.
The only plywoods you could do this reliably is Baltic Birch. So in reality you've actually spent more money because you have purchased plywood that is three times more expensive... That's my two cents.
Baltic Birch in my area is $150 for a 4x8 sheet... geeeeeze
But it’s a far superior product. So for building tools and certain cabinets, it’s a no brainer. But if you are building boxes for a garage, then go cheaper.
After looking at the cost of a router bit vs how much t track I personally need its the same give or take a few$
Good to know I have opinions however
The whiteside cutter is not available anywhere, have people found a good alternative that is available for purchase?
It makes this entire video entertaining but not applicable. I was set to buy the Whiteside cutter but it is not available, and its not sure it will ever be again.
I used Keyhole bits to make all my T-slots, because at the time I was too cheap to buy T-tracks... & always had the intent to later upgrade to stronger, more durable aluminum T-tracks.
Well that was 3 years ago, & I haven't worn them out yet. I'm still debating if it's worth bothering to build new aluminum tracks.
I would upgrade to this larger T-Track with the angle, which you can cut directly into your existing setup. Aluminum is a downgrade compared to integral tracks cut directly into the workpiece. Slot wall is essentially the same thing and is used commercially. Anyone who thinks aluminum is better likely lacks experience with wood T-Tracks. I've used both for many years, and I would choose a lifetime supply of T-Track router bits over aluminum T-Track any day. In fact, I even have a supplier who offered me aluminum T-Track for free, but I declined. This is just my personal experience, and I have no affiliation with any router bit company or T-Track manufacturer. 😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop
The wooden T-tracks I made are 5/8 wide. I even made my own track clamps, which involves a T-bolt bolted to a wood block with a vertical toggle clamp mounted on it. The T-bolt slides through 1 of the mounting holes of the toggle clamp, bolting it to the block, & 1" screws through the topside of the other 3 holes.
I haven't had the need for bigger T-slots "yet"... but if I ever do, I'll probably just get the bigger bit.
@@TheSmartWoodshop But why to use such wide cutter. The cutter which makes groove 13mm wide should be wide enough for the clamp. You are saying that you are using wide washer that its stronger, but that is only the case if the thickness of material above the groove is sufficient. If its too thin, then wider groove is more likely its that material above the groove will crack.
@@PeterLukac-r9nI'm not sure about the testing the bit manufacturers did, but I find the 1-inch-wide washer and cam clamp to be an excellent setup.
fantastic info. thanks for keeping it simple for old farts like me!
Hmmm. I have saved the link to this bit from other YTers who recommended and its perpetually out of stock. Seems like they need to increase production for the demand.
My router doesn’t accept 5/8 bits.
Also why are these router bit diameters so much wider than the average t-track width? I’m a little confused.
The bit is ½" shank. I don't know the reason behind the design, but was glade I discovered it. I like the daily use of the 1" washer and cam clamp. With the narrower t-track the compressing not a spread out.
Good reasoning I’m sold
Whiteside is my preferred router Bit. solid product. Great video! 15:46
Good choice!
I also use alu tracks because quite obviosly aluminium strength is on the safe side while plywood is obviously weaker. It is good to know that small number of people who appeared in this comment section didn't have any problems with plywood T-tracks. Yet. 😀
How much strength do you actually need for a stop block?
@@OOTurok Wrong assumption. T-tracks are not used just for stop blocks, but often for clamping purposes. Nobody knows what accident could produce a sudden strong pull of block used for clamping a workpiece. Or for any other purpose.
@@uMpzZ26e03
When you clamp the work piece over top the T-track... the work piece & the track are clamped together, which creates a compression force between them.... thus the pull out force is not physically possible.
For that to occur, you would need a lever between the clamped work piece & the track itself.... like a prybar.
So for my next question... why would you need to pry a clamped work piece off the T-track?
Wrong again.
Clamp I refer is a lever that presses the workpiece on one end of the lever. The other end of clamp is in T-track groove. When workpiece forcefully acts on lever, the T track is obviously under force acting to rotate the t track in the groove. Because we are talking about plywood and not about solid wood, the only resistance t track has is in a couple of top layers, and these are only on one side of t track.
@@uMpzZ26e03
You are NOT supposed to use T-track clamps as levers... because you are inherently weakening your clamping force by doing so. There is no need to use them as levers, & no advantage in doing so.
The toe of the clamp is suppose to run through the track under the work piece & the clamping screw.
Furthermore, plywood is stronger than solid wood of the same thickness, because the grain of the laminates cross perpendicular to each other.
Also... if you manage to apply enough force to tear out the plywood, you would also tear out the tiny screws holding down an aluminum T-track.
Can you verify the 3075 bit is the one larger one you are using ??? Thanks
Yes it is the 3075 not 3070. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping.
@@TheSmartWoodshop One of the links goes to wallmart the other to you store-both show out of stock
Well done! Thank you for introducing this tool and throughly describing the benefits.
bot
My pleasure!
There are hidden dangers in some shortcuts. This one is no different. Buy the track, do it right have it for a lifetime. This shortcut could eventually fail with not so good results. Beware.
@@CMRct This is better than aluminum track, not a short cut. It is time tested and commercially available. This is a prime example of saving money, but getting a superior product. 😎🤙
Always nice to see an American discover technology European use for ages ....is this instances the quick clamps which you can in smaller size on our bicycles
Has anyone tried these on plywood end grain, for situations where you need a track on adjacent faces like the surface and top of a fence?
Can’t you do everything with the track saw track now?
I don't understand your question.🤔
@@TheSmartWoodshop arent there adapters for the track saw tracks so you can mount about anything to the track as your base straight edge
you convinced me
It's nice you use a "smart" workshop. Only problem is I may not be smart enough to use it.😅
I dont understand haters. Why cant we watch a dang video and have a positive take from it?? Or no take at all??? Everyone is different. Different ideas often spark even more creative ideas. Can we not focus on that?? The world would be bland if we all thought or did the same thing, yet we thrive on tearing down our fellow man (or woman) only to build ourselves up. This is why i hate reading comments. It just shows how shallow we have become. Do better, or at least try to.
I personally hate t track and am excited about trying this alternative.
@@user-uj9ic3rr4t some people waste money on stuff they done need..
Ron tries to inspire creativity with working smarter not harder.
Me and another on here named Caturd argue often about who knows the Ron Paulk material better.
Here is something to think about. Time is money correct?
Ron has numerous years of field experience. He is a worker a real worker in the field making real money.
90 percent of woodworking channels on RUclips aren’t about working or making money. They are about spending money.
Ron is workmethods, accuracy, productivity, best outcomes.
I’m 58 years old I discovered Ron 10 years ago and have watched it all and done most of his builds.
I am an Industrial Engineering Technician I know this dude is on point.
It’s responsible to show workmethods that a economic friendly. He does it right!!
Because having more than one opinion helps people form their own opinions. If routing a keyhole slot in plywood works as well as T-tracks, very few would buy T-tracks, IMO. I'd think Baltic Birch plywood would hold up the best for using a slot routed into plywood but BB is expensive and not easy to find.
Why do so many people call other people with different opinions 'haters' ?
@@OneWildTurkey Because of the difference between "Good to know, here's what works for me..." and "That's crap, THIS is the way..." Same info generating predictable reactions.
@@guyagena8205 Must be a result of not having face to face interactions with enough people any more. That's really sad for the future of the human race.
Soooo… please keep me from watching this whole thing, what exactly is the problem with aluminum t-track?
@@tombarnes4163 TBH, this video dragged on considerably.
you must of pissed the t-track people off. :) I cant find the cutter anywhere...Out of stock.
Too much time spent looking at host talking from 6 feet away; no close ups of the actual T-track production and results.
Cam 2 was hanging around my neck or closer than my eyes to the work when I was setting up and producing the t-track. Check your tape measure if you think 2' is 6.'😎 I am guessing you didn't watch the whole video.
@@TheSmartWoodshop😂
T-track is cheap. I use it all over my shop. I buy it once- done.
Not here
Cheap??! Its about $22 for a 4' piece. Oh wait, let me guess- you've got $20,000 in Festool equiptment in your shop.
@ I buy it on sale or through Temu- about $8-12/4’. I can’t buy wood that cheap, and it needs machined. Who you working for?
the IQ opinions in the comment section is amazing.
great video and thank you..
T-SLOT cut into wood will never be as strong as aluminum t-track that is epoxied and screwed in. I've watched some videos showing testing of the routed t-track versus aluminum and both mdf and plywood broke when force was applied. If you have something that is pressing down as you are applying the clamp it will help sustain it but if it's open above it is not as strong as you think it is.
That may be true, but for most the plywood version is strong enough and more versatile (e.g. you can use clamps and cut the plywood to unlimited lengths without worrying about problems making multiple t-tracks flush). Ultimately it is all about preference. One method is not necessarily better than the other if for some people the durability might be an issue; but again, for most quality plywood will hold up just fine.
@@Technomandfw I routed t-slots into my plywood workbench 5 years ago, use it almost every day, and have never had a problem. Just used suitable clamps.
Aluminum would never be as strong as steel, but that doesn't mean steel should be used. If wood is strong enough, it makes no difference that aluminum is stronger if strength is your point of argument. Now, anodized aluminum does look nice, imo! And there's nothing wrong with making your tools look nice if it makes you feel happy. :-)
I’ve been using shop-made t-tracks for 5 years without any issues. Keep in mind that Slotwall is essentially wood panels with t-tracks cut into them, and they work well, supporting heavy items. If I had unlimited, free aluminum tracks, I’d still choose the integral wood track. The benefits of wood far outweigh the drawbacks.
That is not true......show your proof..... We are waiting
This guy is insane.
Please don't throw it in the garbage can. Aluminum is highly recyclable.
It's just a figure of speech. I'm sure he would recycle it.
@@len5428Or ‘don’t do this at home’.
So what do you want a biscuit
Wearing the wrong shoes can have serious consequences for your feet
Amazon is out of the T-Slot bits.
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
That "if" part frightens me.
For international buyers do you have advice on where we can get the T slot cutter @Ron as Amazon is unavailable
They are in stock now
Says t track is a waste of money but has a festool in the background. 😅😅
I don't understand your logic. That Festool miter saw may be overkill for most of us woodworkers. However if you make a living building and restoring homes, you need tools that are dead accurate and reliable. I know a couple woodworkers who own Festool products, and they do admit they are expensive. I have NEVER heard any of them ever say that the tool was a waste of money.
Do you think a track saw guide rail and t-track are the same thing?🤔
Thats a bad analogy and really doesn’t make sense in this case. Ron shows how his solution works better and cost way less. You cannot find tools that cost way less than Festool and also work better. It’s about value, not outright cost.
@@gregghernandez2714, I agree, but also keep in mind many people have had problems with the $1600 Kapex. Spencer Louis, for example, bought three Kapex miter saws over the years, and two of them had beds that were not perfectly flat and that is NOT something that you can fix (so people need to check for that). He gave up on Festool for years after that claiming his DeWALTs-with a quality blade-are just as accurate even if they lack some of the refinements. DeWALT’s DHS790, for example, was/is so accurate it was marketed specifically for making furniture right out of the box and mine cost almost $1000 less! It’s the same one Ron had and recommended for similar reasons. Spencer purchased the KAPEX again recently only because he was building a new miter station and needed its smaller footprint. Sometimes such refinements can be worth it as Ron has also pointed out. It’s all about a matter of preference. But unlike a miter saw, if the plywood is strong enough for someone’s needs (and it will be the vast majority of the time, then I agree it is superior for the reasons he stated. But there is one more problem I’m aware of with the KAPEX. Some uses have stated that their motors have burned out prematurely, but that is true of DEWALT and other companies as well. So the KAPEX may or may not be worth the money, but unless one has experience burning up plywood t-slots in plywood, I agree the comparison with Festool tools is apples and oranges in my opinion.
Oh! I missed the point. You're saying that while I save money in one area, I might spend more in another. 😎 I don't focus on upfront costs; instead, I prioritize value. I’m willing to spend more when purchasing a tool because, over time, I end up spending less than if I had bought a cheaper tool that doesn’t last or offer the precision I need. In the case of shop-made t-tracks, I’m spending less upfront and getting a better product. I don’t spend more than necessary, but at my age, I don’t get swayed by low prices.
stacking layers of thin plywood can achieve the same thing, for noobs like me with no router
*Kevin Criswell
He reminds me of Billy Clinton.
Aluminum t-track is a scam
Not sure about scam, but unnecessary for sure.
👍🏻
🤙
He means aluminium….
Your spellchecker is broken! ( too many 'I's in aluminum ) /wink
Please say more in less time
... and stay on topic.
I think you lose durability... your way.
@@Bills_Bicycle_Rides Me thinks not, but I have only tested it for 5 years.😎
What he means is he is somehow invested in whiteside router bits and wants you to buy them with this obviously silly take.
Heighth = no such word! It is, has been and always will be height! Other than that, good info ✌️
lots of verbal chatter and waving wood around - not impressed with vid but love Whiteside....
Meh