What tools should you cheap out on? │ Getting Started in Leatherwork
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- Ever wondered which tools you should cheap out on, and which you should invest in? Well, this video is intended to help with that.
This is intended to be a companion to a video introducing the leatherworking tools you should have when you start out - I intend to make my own soon (so subscribe if you want to see that!) but there are lots of brilliant videos on the topic out there already.
If you have different ideas to me, please tell me in the comments - I'd love to hear your opinions.
If you managed to get through twenty minutes of a man rambling to himself in a shed, congratulations!
Ian Atkinson's tool list: www.ianatkinson.net/leather/t...
eBay skiving knife (link may expire at any time): www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Cr...
TIMECODES
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Kits - 00:54
What to cheap out on - 03:04
What to cheap out on, but should upgrade soon - 10:20
What you should invest in - 18:14
LINKS
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Instagram - / sharps.workshop
Etsy - www.etsy.com/uk/shop/SharpsWo...
Email - sharps.workshop@gmail.com
GEAR
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Canon M100 with Meike EF-M to EF/EF-S adapter
Canon 50mm f1.8 STM
Samson Meteor microphone with cheap nasty eBay stand (ceiling mounted) 
Хобби
I'm going to disagree with you about the awl. There are two different types of awl in common use among leather workers: a scratch awl and a stitching awl. If you're talking about a round scratch awl, yeah, go ahead with whatever you can come up with, but not the stitching awl. A stitching awl needs to be diamond shaped and sharp. Not just sharp at the point but on the edges as well. I bought a C. S. Osborne diamond-shaped stitching awl (and they are not cheap). The very first time I tried to use it, the blade bent double. Then I found a stitching awl from Goods Japan which has turned out to be the best awl I have ever used. I can't think of enough good things to say about this awl... and I am not affiliated with Goods Japan.
I am also going to disagree with you about the stamping tools. My experience has been that cheap stamping tools do not make good impressions and will disappoint you.
Thanks very much for your comment - I love a bit of disagreement, it helps me improve.
In hindsight I would have put stitching awls in the 'should upgrade soon' category, but to be honest I don't often use them. I'm a stitching chisel man myself, and so I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with specific stitching awls - everything I've needed to do, my homemade one has sufficed for.
If you're the sort of person that prefers stitching with an awl this is brilliant advice, and I've pinned your comment so that others can benefit from it.
I did cover scratch awls too - my opinion is that as the good ones are only a few pounds (for example Osborne being only £4), it's worth buying the proper stuff.
In terms of stamps, fair enough - I imagine with cheap tools, our experiences all vary. I've been using mine for a few years and done a lot of work with them with decent results, though of course I may have simply got a gem of a set from eBay.
Thanks again!
That skiving knife does work (as long as you sharpen it often and strop it before every use) but if you use it often you should get a good quality knife made with a good steel with good construction.
im a beginner - thanks for sharing - "SUBSCRIBED" 👍
Great video alot of great points! Unfortunately I bought cheap tools to start and some I didn't even end up needing. Very good info here great job!
I got a wing divider from Harbor Freight for about $5 that was pretty adequate, I upgraded to a $20 at some point but the cheap one worked for basic marking and measuring. For squaring the edges of leather before cutting it into straps I have an 8' straightedge without measurements from Home Depot that cost $29 and came with two C clamps. It breaks down into 2 4' straightedges and is much much cheaper than buying a metal ruler that long -- the 4' I already had wasn't long enough to square the edges on a side of leather and the markings started to rub off from use because they were just printed on, not stamped into the metal. Wheel punches wear out real fast if you get the cheap ones, the tubing on the punches deforms really easily if you're punching a lot of holes. The Tandy ones with replaceable punches are really good for the money. Also any thrift store cutting board works well for punching operations as long as it's plastic.
Very enjoyable watch. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love your aesthetic man, and your beard is absolutely top form.
Thanks very much!
Fantastic!! Exactly what I needed and from a UK point of view. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I got my tooling slab at the tombmakers workshop - they even advised me on the thickness (with the thinner one being too fragile). I got it just for "thank you" and was encoured to come again (sort of a black humour I think).
Love it! I hadn't thought of that, I just used my local kitchen supplier! I'd be tempted to engrave it with my own details (or that of a family member) so I could scare people who come into the workshop.
I started leather work about a year ago, and at the start mostly just brought tools that were a couple of quid at a time (amazon prices of Chinese tools seems to fluctuate wildly!) and one thing I did find with cheap tools is that quality control can be an issue, for example my stitching punches I brough a 3mm and 5mm diamond (1, 2, 4, 6 prongs) set for about 3 pound each, the 3mm set isn't polished well and sticks in the leather if not waxed well, but the 5mm is perfect! I have had similar experiences with french skivers.
That said I agree with the needles, I brought a set of amazon "leather needles" and was breaking 2-3 per project, brought a set of John James needles and have yet to break a single one!
with stamping tools I have found that the tool is not as important as 1) correctly casing the leather, 2) having a firm surface underneath (I have a black granite worktop cut out) and 3) a good mallet. as you say you want a mallet that will not prematurely wear your stamps out, but also you want one that does bounce on the tool (can lead to double hits that can "blur" the impression") I use my raw hide mallet for punches as I can really add weight to the hit, but a poly maul for tooling and delicate work. A metal hammer can be useful to tap down stiches after sewing (I use a 4oz ball pein hammer for this)
I bought an edge beveler for about 10 dollars and art knife(scalpel) about same price and in this 2 tools (first I ever bought) I see a big difference depending on the price. I changed this both with edge beveler and euro knife (scalpel type knife) by Palosanto Factory. Let me say that I have no relation with this company but man...their tools... This scalpel and edge beveler ware game changers.
I’ve recently had to upgrade my awl because I wanted to do box and butt stitches with my relatively fine pricking irons. Sometimes the shape and size of them really does matter. It’s only become a necessity much down the line though, I’ve been doing this for a couple years now, slowly building up on my dad’s collection of vintage tools
The only problem with using brass hardware is if the brass tarnishes, it will stain the leather green. I try to use stainless hardware when possible, such as belt buckles.
Good video, thanx!
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Glad it helped!
Hi mate! Recently got into leatherworking myself in the last couple months. Just wanted to say keep the videos coming! Your videos are clear, good quality and helpful.
Thanks so much! Means a lot to hear, I've been busy with a dissertation but there'll be a video or two coming along in the next week or thereabouts!
Watched for the first time, just starting out at the age of 61, getting my leather tools sorted out is like walking in a minefield so any advice very helpful. Have been watching Harry and Chuck, sorted some tools have made a couple mistakes buying like ritza thread still waiting for that to turn up from the Ukraine, hunted around but could not find the right colour (white .8) even the big names you have to watch out for as price jumps around, learnt to look and look again. Keep up the good work.
Thanks very much! Tiger can be a pain to source, thankfully Abbey England stock it and Ian Atkinson sells small lengths if you want to try it out. I've done a UK suppliers video that might be of interest, if you're stuck for some things!
Seiwa pricking irons are pretty cheap as is so might as well start out with them and then upgrade to higher quality irons that use a good steel and are well polished so they don’t get stuck in thinker leather. Also French pricking irons and a good stitching awl will give the nicest stitching you could ever get.
good information video !!!!
Great info/advice thanks! What sort of leather contact glue would you recommend please?
Some of the "cheap" tools you get are actually salvageable if you know how. In some cases of course they're garbage that is poorly made of poor materials. In other cases they aren't necessarily bad material, or even poorly made, but are instead not well finished. By that I mean the edges may be rough, the tool not really sharp out of the package, etc. In some cases a simple sharpening of the cutting edge,or a polishing of the tool can make all the difference. But, yes, many are simply not fit for purpose and never will be. It's hard to know what tools are worth spending the money on and which ones are a case of "perfect is the enemy of good enough". Of course really nice tools are a joy to own and money spent on good quality tools is never wasted. But like with any other craft like this there is always somebody trying to invent a better mousetrap, trying to sell you a gadget that will do XXX better than what you have now, and it's hard to know if that's true or just hype.
Oh definitely, I agree totally. It's trial and error for the most part!
the letter stamps are intended for use on metal. they just rebrand it on ebay. im a goldsmith student and i have the exact same letter set which works fine for metal (it doesnt leave any extra marks) but for leatherwork the stamp is too shallow.
Thanks for the video just what i needed to know.
Oh your stone is a thermal brick from a storage heater
Oh wonderful! I didn't realise that! Unfortunately, the damned thing broke recently after I misused it and stressed it at a weird angle, it will rest in pieces.
@@SharpsWorkshop If you use a brick get an engineering brick from a builders merchants, they are very hard and heavy. also, a new storage heater brick will probably be tougher than an old one.
Fantastic video, thanks a lot man it really helped me a lot. I am on eBay trying to purchase my first ever leather working 'kit' (hoping to fit into £100-150 budget) and this helped me tremendously. One hour in watching YT and seems like OLFA is good, got the same skiving knife you recommended, its all slowly coming together. I am a bit stuck on glue though, think water based contact adhesive is the way to go but haven't seen any recommendations yet but it's early days.
Glad it helped! In terms of glues, Fiebings leather cement is alright but Aquilim 315 and Intercom 1816b are much better adhesives at a higher price. It depends on budget and availability!
I'm in the US and the cement I use is Barge or Weldwood, whichever is at the hardware store. They're in the inexpensive range and I've been using them for years. They're not water based, so there is that.
I closed my eyes and went into deep meditation and for a moment I thought Rickey Gervais was the presenter. Brilliant! Cheers mates!!
Ah thanks very much!
Hi Andy... As a beginner I found your video very helpful .. What I also liked was the fact that you actually answer people's comments it's really appreciated, so many youtubers want you to subscribe and like but can't seem to bother answering questions, so thanks for that. As a beginner I'm on the search for some stitching chisels on a budget to get me going, I've leaning towards either a set of 4 on amazon called Aiskaer white steel for £18 or a stitch punch variety set on Artisan leather.... What do you think?
Thanks again you have a new subscriber.... Regards Tony 😉
OH BUY THE WAY.... 21:15 RICKY GERVAIS 😂😂
Hi Tony! Thanks very much, I do like to make viewers feel they've got their money's worth :)
Chisels are tough, so many people have so many opinions. The price of two Seiwas (Japanese irons, for example a 3mm 6+2 set) isn't much more than the Amazon ones in the scheme of things, but they're much better tools. A lot of people also say that you should just buy a really good set at first, eat the cost and not change them - that the cheap ones are a false economy. It depends on the budget I think - the Ivan set on Artisan isn't something I have tried, but it's probably going to be better quality than Amazon stuff.
Nigel Armitage has some wonderful stitching chisel reviews, just to make your choice harder! Hope that collection of ambiguous stuff I've told you has helped.
P.S. groups and forums on social media might help too - you might find someone selling off their starting tools cheaply.
Thanks. As i am a beginner
Happy to help!
Amazing... Is real
He is. My uncle's met him!
Hang on, you were talking about Ray Mears, won't you?
For the Japanese skiver, depending on your work, I think you should go for the better one. I have that exact same on you have and I do a pot of skiving. Damn thing dull so fast. I spend 50% of the time stropping it. Get one with a good metal that holds the edge
Ah fair enough - it's a shame you've had a bad experience with them. I've always had a fairly good experience keeping a reasonable edge on mine. There's a good chance that they would vary, being so cheaply made - a pitfall of the price I suppose. Thanks for letting me know!
I've actually heard great things about that one. I was deciding between making my own or buying one for 10 bux and calling it a day.
I agree. You constantly need to stop it. It’s ok for the price if you are a beginner but I suive a lot and cut even more with mine so I got a high quality version with an amazing steel and it is incredible what a difference it makes. At least, the cheap one is easy to sharpen since it uses a cheap, softer steel, however it dulls out so quickly, you have to stop it for a while before, as well as in between every use.
❤❤❤
Great video. Can I ask you where you get your leather from? Thanks 😊
If you check my channel, the first video I ever made was a supplier recommendation list! (Psst, nobody knows this yet but there's a volume 2 coming soon!)
@@SharpsWorkshop Thank you ✌️
My god. You are Tore Sagens twin. Norwegian radio personality and comedian
Ah bloody hell, I am! Well thanks very much, he's got a good beard =D
@@SharpsWorkshop 😄
Just ordered the Chineseey skiving knife - delivery jan 2022 🤣
Oh dear! Well for the money it's worth a punt!
@@SharpsWorkshop definitely is, thanks for your ramblings !
I love the beard bro
Thanks! Grew it myself =P
gauffrage?
I have the same skiving knife, this only cost 1 pound in taobao😂😂😂
Cheap and cheerful!
Btw, that brick is from an electric storage heater. Just incase you wanted to know ha ha
Ahh that's where it was from! Unfortunately it shattered into a millian pieces shortly after the video was made so I've ended up with a marble worktop offcut!
Can you easily reach a point where the hobby sustains itself financially?
It depends, everyone approaches selling work differently. I would say that you should be pretty good before you sell properly, that way you can charge a fair price for the time spent and not undercut other sellers too much with low quality wares. However, that's a huge topic area with lots of different points of view.
My finances have just balanced (nearly) for the year, but I am still net negative for every other year - it's not a hobby that always pays for itself by any means!
@@SharpsWorkshop Thanks! Best of luck to you!
The hell you call a box cutter?
I think they're more commonly referred to as Stanley knives over here - it's one of those things, like hoovers, where the brand name has come to mean the entire tool!
@@SharpsWorkshop makes sense, till the market gets flooded. We also call them "utility knives"
All around good video on what to buy starting out. My only addition would be for you to lose the "um, um,". It is very distracting to try to listen to what you are saying when the first sound of almost every sentence is "um"!!
[ I am also and "anti-fan" of "uh" and "like" as in " like I told him what I thought and he like said I was nutty and like, well, I just like walked away and ....."] Maybe it's an American thing, I'm not quite sure, but those repetitive "mumbles" are not good diction nor are they needed to make a point. So, um, I hope that you, um, don't take offence at my, um, bringing it, um, to your attention? 😂
Argh, sorry! It's one of those things that I'm aware of but just can't seem to shake! I think I'm getting better at it as I do more filming, but I'll certainly carry on working on that.
I also hate 'like' - no offence at all taken!
you talked too much, do video for the hearing impaired.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind!
His speak is really clear and "defined" so youtubes automatic CC works really well
@@SharpsWorkshop Mind my dualistic mind, people on other side may perceived more than 1 languages but not English.
Well young man, you lost me at the 5th "umm" in less than a minute! If you are going to do a video, please don't use "filler" words like "umm", "ah", "right", and such hesitation words. They only make you appear to be unprepared for your discussion and it is very distracting to the viewer who is trying to learn something from your video.
So old you made a pointless comment and 2 years later with a separate account you forgot you made the same comment and said the same thing, grow up.