I like this guy, i think he helps alot of people, i'm a tech myself and have my own business doing the same things and this guy is the best instructor on youtube.
Hello Andrea, I think it is cool you are into engines and what they work to make our lives easier, specially gener8orz after a bad storm. It seems like we have a "Throw- a-way society, stuff not made to last like it should. I find it a challenge and figure if it has any kind of compression, it's worth a shot of being worked on. Take care!
Taryl, I am 65 yrs old and have been working on mowers since I was 8. I have learned a lot from you. I can not believe you do not have more subscribers. you are great.
My generator was left out in the rain and quit putting out power. All was rusted. I cleaned up the rust but still no power. After watching your video, doing all the tests, I excited the armature. I had to have the engine running though because I did not get that spark when it was not running. When it was running I did get a spark and the generator works perfect. I really appreciate your guidance. Learned a lot. Great video and job Taryl. Tim
Actually, if you have no continuity through a winding, that would mean it’s open, not shorted. A short would show continuity between two sets of windings.
For flashing, the drill trick works good too.. If all tests passed, generator running, smallest corded electric drill you own, squeeze trigger, spin motor backwards by hand and it should spin back towards you and start working... great video..
Taryl is the best small /portable engine repairman on RUclips and possibly the internet , thank you Taryl for your contribution to society & the world .
Simply the most entertaining fun and informative you tube instruction video ever! Should be included in every high school and Vol tech class in the nation ,because it is fun and hold your attention. GET AN AGENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Taryl, I was checking other Colmans, I saw one with two groups of wires, a black and white wire for each group. the guy checked the continuity, he had continuity between the black and white wires. I have a lot of respect for U and ur fearless crew and did not want to see u trash a geny that could still be good,
A minor thing, but it would be a good idea if you use any of those piercing type test leads on those wires, is to cover those holes you made in the insulation with epoxy of some sort. Those holes will allow dirt or humidity and moisture to come inside, and start causing corrosion.
A good idea is to put a car headlite in series so no more than headlight current will go through the field, which draws less than a headlight, also if u accidentally short the nails together, you won't have a direct short, u just get headlamp brighter. Taryl, I am SO glad I found ur spot on the interskreen. I've learned a lot from you and your sidekicks!.
Thank you sir! Learned a lot about generators watching your video rather than a lot of others I have seen! Very informative! Thank you sir ! Keep it up! 👍
Awesome, Found broken wire in the rotor, repaired it, reassembled, flashed slip rings/rotor. Still not producing power. Double checked everything and reflashed rotor several times, still no power. Tried applying 12v to brushes while generator running, output jumped up to around 60v then to 120v when I removed the 12v, plugged 500w flood light into both recepticles and it continued to put out 120 volts
I totally subbed! You are awesome man! I am 14 and I own a Landscaping business. My mowers get worked hard, so I have to fix them a lot. You really help me out when fixing them with your videos! I also love watching the skits! You are awesome! Thanks and I’ll make sure to keep watching!!
Excellent video! Thanks, Taryl! On the continuity test for the rotor, I was getting about .36 with the meter intermittent positive reading - but not really as well as the housing test which was great. I either get a good rotor or take it off and look to fix it. Before the next big outage!
You guys really put a lot of effort into your videos. There pretty funny but when I comes to the actual info people want you still give it and a good clear and funny way.
I don't know how I came across this channel but I got to say it's the best on RUclips... absolutely hilarious.... My go to channel now for a few laughs and very informative.. I wish I found this along time ago. Keep up the awesome work boys!!!!!!!Q
I own a 1992 circa Coleman 4.4KW engine generator with 8 HP B&S engine and when the winding failed I wrote a letter to Colman and after I gave Coleman the information they asked for they gave me replacement parts for free. I still have the engine generator in working condition today so sometimes it pays to write the people who made the equipment because they may help you out
Taryl, the fact that there are no skinny ropes on the windings broken or signs of overheating means it is most like a GOOD generator. The yellow wires are for the EXCITER which makes the spinning part which is a spinning FIELD and it turns into a powerful magnet, so that means U have to have good brushes. Colman uses a black AND white wire to connect to the ends of the STATOR. If there was a SHORT, it would be evidenced by a darker coil color and burned ropes or twine. Disclaimer, no racial unkindness is meant here. SO use ur meter on the black and white wires and I am VERY SURE you will find you have a good generator.
most the time working on them coleman gen , i find the circuit board blown from people over powering the gen , still find them on ebay , cause colemen dont make rewplacements . great vid , thanks
In these alternators, the fixt winding or winding that does not move is known as a stator pronounced by some as st8tor, spinning part is rotor, Taryl, some rotors have permanent magnets attached to help start generating. The rotors had some residual field to them but as u sed sometimes have to flash the field. St8or coils with yellow leads were the exciter winding, they went to some diode/s to turn a.c. to d.c. to then go to the brushes. the AVR auto voltage regulator sends current to brushes. if output volts are say 130, the AVR sends less current to brushes and volts go back to 120. voltage goes down to say 110, AVR sends more current to brushes and volts go to 120.hope it helps friend, you really are a friend, I appreciate the work you put into your videoze, say hi to ur kats 4me?
Hi Taryl just wanted to say that the yellow and black windings that do NOT have continuity are NOT shorted, they are NOT shorted they are open. if working properly they should show a short from one end of the winding to the other with a small resistance. Granted they could be shorted to another winding which is what caused them to open, but as you showed them, they are open.
Hello Taryl, There are a few different ways these st8ors are or can be wound, Some put the ends of the two 120 volt windings together to 1 white or gray wire. with a black at 1 end and a blue or red at the other end. across the black, red or blue is 240 volts, but either black, red or blue to the white or gray will give the 120 volts. Some have a white wire for each 120 volt winding. If u check resistance to both white wires and black an red or dark colored wires are not hooked to a load, you will think you have a bad generator when you don't. Champion power equip. is good. u can get manual for gen on line w wiring schematic ( not a scream in the attic) Sometimes the white which is called a neutral is connected to frame as well as the ground. if u have a bad appliance plugged in an touch frame of gener8or u might seriously get to know it. that is known as a 'Bonded neutral' So my friend and I mean that in thanks for ur great vids, b4 st send a generator to the electric chair, at least look online for the diagram and u may find u have a good st8or after all.
The field windings each have a high temperature fuse that breaks the field circuit to avoid the windings catching fire if there is a shorted field or if the user is overloading the generator. This fuse does not reset because engineers figure if they blow this fuse it's better it never work again than to give the user another chance to cause a fire. This fuse can be replaced with one that resets once it cools down, or even be bypassed completely, but may result in a fire. The fuse is wired next to the fields so they will get hot and is usually underneath an insulating wrap or sleeve ( orange sleeve on the older working generator as an example) The same type of fuse is found in many consumer electronics that use an electric motor including fans.
This is really good video! I have one with me and it is PM3500 model. when I checked voltage output with the multimeter, the reading go back and forth between 10 V and 121v. when I am using a power drill, It runs smoothly. Is this normal to this model?
Taryl, If there is NO continuity, it means there is an 'OPEN' The rotating part is the 'FIELD' the windings in the square part is the stator. In a starter motor, the part that turns is the armature, with many windings and brass segments called the commutator.
I'd be so pleased if you went between the blk an wht wires with the meter, u'd find u have a good generator, I have seen these gens with 2 groups of wires a black and white per group. the yellow wires are for the exciter circuit at goes to a capacitor a rectifier or set of diodes then to the brushes. ALSO Taryl, if the windings were bad or shorted, they would be DIS-COLORED Also the rotor with the slip rings is supposed to have a little bit of magnetism to it, that makes a small a.c. voltage at the yellow wires, that small a.c. voltage goes to the capacitor then to the rectifier to send D.C. to the sliprings and making the rotor a more powerful magnet to make more power.
Taryl, on some powermate gens the coils of stator have their ends as black and white. SO that means u need to check across black and white leads for continuity. The windings are GOOD. if the windings were burned out, they'd be discolored and the twine ropes would be broken.
For the field wires on a Coleman Vertex 7500I have 2 connectors. One, yellows with one blue. Have continuity between the 2 yellows. Other connector, 2 blacks measuring open. Looks like I need a field coil?
I have a Coleman Powermate 5000 Maxa ER Plus maybe 12yrs old. It was used once by my nephew and when I got it back it wouldn't put any power out of plugs. I've checked everything you said to but haven't flashed it yet. And I'm curious where is the AVR?
Taryl, next time u get a generator fixt, measure d.c. volts across the brushes. This way u will know what field voltage should be on THAT gener8or, so when/or if it craps out, u will know what the field voltage is a.k.a. power to the brushes. Also check a.c. volts on what might be two yellow wires, most likely exciter windings this way and ohms as well, if gen will not put out u can get a good idea by checking ohms now to what they were when she was putting out.
Hey Tim.... Been experiencing a lot of ignition problems with Stihl lately... First a 441 now a 362.... Both came in with customer complaint of no spark when hot... Replaced the coil on the 441, basically because there is no definitive way to trouble shoot it... Worked fine, back again with same complaint... 362 cuts like a champ, made a dozen cuts in an 18" diameter log, never missed a beat... Not really expecting a diagnosis over the net, but are there any characteristic ignition probs n these saws that you are aware of Thanks, T
YUP, the ylw wires are for excitation they'd go to an AVR or a generator capacitor and a rectifier to brushes. I really think the stator coils were black and white for 1 winding, and the same for the other winding if it was a 120/240 volts generator.
Great info and Funny stuff! I like it. I do have a question. I have a Homelite 4000. It doesn't produce power unless I take my wife's old hair drier and turn it on. If I am just trying to run 3 lights in my camper it won't energize. Since it works when I use the drier or kick on the coffee maker it's not a problem. But I wonder why I can't start the generator and recharge the camper battery with its charger or have all the lights in the trailer on and charge our cell phones until I hit it with a good load on it. Once its charging it produces power with a single cell phone charger. Something keeps it from energizing until it gets a pretty good draw. Thanks!
Taryl your the MAN ! Been a dedicated viewer for a long time and you helped me alot. I'm looking at a 19 hp Kawasaki mounted on a John Deere z-turn mower. It maybe 10 yrs old not sure. Problem is when the engine is cold, it starts pretty well BUT after it runs a while and you shut it off you have to crank and crank on it for it to start again. Do you or anyone have any suggestions ? When it runs it runs great, but after it gets warm and you shut it down you have to crank the crap out of it to restart. Help please.
+Keith Evans Try this Spray carb. or startin fluid in it when its hot & won't start. If it does start then you know its a fuel issue probably fuel pump or that solenoid on the carb. If it doesn't start next I would check spark & compression.
I tested continuity on the slipper rings, and I tested for it on the wires in the connector ging to the panel on the exterior with the outlets. All seem fine. I have a Powermate 5000 as well, but it is newer than the ones in this video. In the cover where the brushes are, I have just a bridge rectifier board and none of the other components. I cannot get more than 2 VAC out of the outles. I magnetized at the brushed terminals as well. My generator has two yellow wires coming from the big coil that feeds into the bridge rectifier board. I unplug that board and start the engine and I am only getting just under 2VAC at the end of those two yellow wires at the clip. I also ohmed out the slipper rings and it gives me a 38ohm reading... I am stumped, any ideas?
With all due respect Taryl, the rotor that has the sliprings which the brushes press against, that is the 'FIELD' same as the spinning rotor in a car alternator. The other part of the gen- er8or is known as the 'STATOR' as it is a 'STATIONARY or not moving WINDING. That is the winding or coil you get your 120/240 volts from.
The armature rings where the brushes ride I have a tone on my meter but it is only when I move the meter tips around and even then it is fuzzy sounding, not a good tone. Thoughts?
This is the first time I've posted a comment on RUclips because there is info on this video that will incorrectly lead someone to think their generator is bad. That part that shows him checking the 2 white and 2 black wires on the field windings and him saying there should be continuity between them is incorrect. Having no continuity is the way it should be. There SHOULD BE CONTINUITY between one of the black wires and one of the white wires and then the other remaining black and white wire. I was pretty sure this was correct, but I waited to get my generator back running to make 100% sure before I posted this. My problem was the capacitor. Not trying to be contrary just to be aggravating, just trying to save someone from thinking their generator is bad.
Bingo. There should be small resistance between B-W on each coil - the two stator windings, And a small resistance on the yellow. Black to black should be open, and I think whiles are connected together.
What IS that blue wire for? Some of these Coleman 5000 generators don't have it. The ones with the two diodes in the bottom of the rear housing do. The ones with the bridge rectifier don't.
I worked as a mechanic for 3 different John Deere dealers over the years, even pulled about 6 years with a Ford New Holland dealer. Living about 30 minutes inland from the coast in mississippi, generator knowledge is a must, we see a lot of hurricanes. I've taken brand new gens out of the box that had no output. Usually some may get bumped around during shipping knocking the magnetism out of the rotor. Without magnetism ya can't have electricity. I think I've used about every possible way to induce magnestism but my favorite is still the good old square 6 volt eveready battery, the one with the springs on top for terminals. Just a touch off will do it everytime......
I know this is old, but have you ever worked on "Reddy" brand type generators? My mother-in-law has one and has to use it frequently. It has a Honda engine that runs great, but recently stopped making voltage. My first guess is bad capacitor. I can't find any info about these old cheap generators. Thanks...Great vids
Hey Guys, very entertaining for a generator repair vid, and nice teefers too. I have a Coleman Powermate 6875, very similar to the one yer workin' on, can you tell me where the wire goes to? The one that comes up from the bottom of the motor, not the ground wire, the other one, it has a quick disconnect connector on it. Thx man!!
Ok the second armature you had where the brushes ride on there on mine it's rougher then a cob so when I replace the brushes and with in 10-12 hours of run time it eats the brushes my question is can I replace what looks like bearings where the brushes mount
I heard that you could flash a generator by using a corded electric drill plugged into the dead generator, then manually spill the electric drill. That would produce a voltage to flash the generator.
Windings are between B-W (there are two). There should be a small resistance between them. Yellow to yellow also should have a small resistance. B-B should be open. W-W should be connected. The video is amusing.
hey Taryl for those that are "dead" connect a drill into the outlet has to be a corded drill and turn it by hand then try it it should have recharged it. theres your dinner :)
That flash is due to the energy of the magnetic field, this is an inductive load, when Taryl applied voltage to the slip rings, the two poles of the rotor became a powerful electro- magnet and a powerful field of magnetic force was spread around the poles of the rotor. Now, when Taryl removes the power, all the magnetic force that spread out around the rotor, collapsed back into the coil of the rotor and built up a back voltage across those windings. were a voltmeter across the windings when the power was removed, the meter could have shown a voltage somewhat higher than the 12 volts he applied, that is whats known as back voltage.
Hello Taryl, man that was good one. Educational and entertaining, reminds me of old original Scooby Doo. The good ones. Anyway going be doing couple generators. Try get um fixed. Moms got new champion yellow 4500 think just was working few times gas drained always when stored went use it several months later start right up no power output.. they put new brushes and little electric piece champion told them usually is. Nothing sent her husband drill method flachy trick nothing send this one have him watch so we can tear back apart and try. I have a old companion 10 horse Tecumseh from Sears looks like Coleman 5000w. Needs looked at runs gave 40$ for it, have old sears 1100w gen. It's motor and gen. Head with no frame really probably 50$ or 60s maybe earlier 70s model needs look at. Gave 30 or 40 for runs okish, and just got older Coleman 1850 w greenish plastic end casings won't power output runs good looks good just no power output free gave to me. Needs look at. I wish I lived in ur neighborhood or u in mine lol . Well I have rambled enough need be in building fixing them so I'll holler later. Keep up great job man. Ain't easy being that good. 😂.stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
+MultiChainsaw123 You know those piercin tools come in so handy I'm so glad I bought those. I'm sure you'll feel the same when you get yurs. Talk to ya later 123
An easy way to pull the rotor off is to find a bolt with the proper threads and put teflon tape on it and put some water in the hole and screw the bolt on. The hydraulic pressure from the water will pop the rotor off
I like this guy, i think he helps alot of people, i'm a tech myself and have my own business doing the same things and this guy is the best instructor on youtube.
Thank you Andrea! Glad to assist you in any of your lawn-mower-fixing needs.
Hello Andrea, I think it is cool you are into engines and what they work to make our
lives easier, specially gener8orz after a bad storm. It seems like we have a "Throw-
a-way society, stuff not made to last like it should. I find it a challenge and figure if it
has any kind of compression, it's worth a shot of being worked on. Take care!
V
Solo vet here. I watch Taryl so I don't feel alone.
Taryl, I am 65 yrs old and have been working on mowers since I was 8. I have learned a lot from you. I can not believe you do not have more subscribers. you are great.
Hello Jerome,
Guys like Taryl, junior, Slippers and jerknstain Ron? are why I don't get cable, good
to great SMARTS and humor too!
My generator was left out in the rain and quit putting out power. All was rusted. I cleaned up the rust but still no power. After watching your video, doing all the tests, I excited the armature. I had to have the engine running though because I did not get that spark when it was not running. When it was running I did get a spark and the generator works perfect. I really appreciate your guidance. Learned a lot. Great video and job Taryl.
Tim
Actually, if you have no continuity through a winding, that would mean it’s open, not shorted. A short would show continuity between two sets of windings.
For flashing, the drill trick works good too.. If all tests passed, generator running, smallest corded electric drill you own, squeeze trigger, spin motor backwards by hand and it should spin back towards you and start working... great video..
Craig Gerlach I'd do the drill trick first, before I started turning wrenches.
Craig Gerlach will try awesome thanks
I was just about to cut this video because I thought it was just a joke but turns out to be VERY useful! Thanks for posting mates!
Taryl is the best small /portable engine repairman on RUclips and possibly the internet , thank you Taryl for your contribution to society & the world .
Simply the most entertaining fun and informative you tube instruction video ever!
Should be included in every high school and Vol tech class in the nation ,because it is fun and hold your attention.
GET AN AGENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Taryl, I was checking other Colmans, I saw one with two groups of wires, a black and
white wire for each group. the guy checked the continuity, he had continuity between the
black and white wires. I have a lot of respect for U and ur fearless crew and did not want
to see u trash a geny that could still be good,
I flashed mine by plugging in a 1/2 “ drill plugged it in with generator running pulled the trigger and spun the chuck backwards worked great!
A minor thing, but it would be a good idea if you use any of those piercing type test leads on those wires, is to cover those holes you made in the insulation with epoxy of some sort. Those holes will allow dirt or humidity and moisture to come inside, and start causing corrosion.
A good idea is to put a car headlite in series so no more than headlight current will go through
the field, which draws less than a headlight, also if u accidentally short the nails together, you
won't have a direct short, u just get headlamp brighter. Taryl, I am SO glad I found ur spot on the
interskreen. I've learned a lot from you and your sidekicks!.
Thank you sir! Learned a lot about generators watching your video rather than a lot of others I have seen! Very informative! Thank you sir ! Keep it up! 👍
Thank you for this! The wires had come loose and I was not getting continuity on the contact plate. Resoldered them and got it working again!
Really glad I found your site very entertaining and really good repair information. Keep up the great work and intertainment.
Awesome, Found broken wire in the rotor, repaired it, reassembled, flashed slip rings/rotor. Still not producing power. Double checked everything and reflashed rotor several times, still no power. Tried applying 12v to brushes while generator running, output jumped up to around 60v then to 120v when I removed the 12v, plugged 500w flood light into both recepticles and it continued to put out 120 volts
I totally subbed! You are awesome man! I am 14 and I own a Landscaping business. My mowers get worked hard, so I have to fix them a lot. You really help me out when fixing them with your videos! I also love watching the skits! You are awesome! Thanks and I’ll make sure to keep watching!!
Excellent video! Thanks, Taryl! On the continuity test for the rotor, I was getting about .36 with the meter intermittent positive reading - but not really as well as the housing test which was great. I either get a good rotor or take it off and look to fix it. Before the next big outage!
You guys really put a lot of effort into your videos. There pretty funny but when I comes to the actual info people want you still give it and a good clear and funny way.
I don't know how I came across this channel but I got to say it's the best on RUclips... absolutely hilarious.... My go to channel now for a few laughs and very informative.. I wish I found this along time ago. Keep up the awesome work boys!!!!!!!Q
John R thank you!! Glad to have you as a viewer. Keep on wrenchin. And there's yur dinner!!
John R true
I own a 1992 circa Coleman 4.4KW engine generator with 8 HP B&S engine and when the winding failed I wrote a letter to Colman and after I gave Coleman the information they asked for they gave me replacement parts for free. I still have the engine generator in working condition today so sometimes it pays to write the people who made the equipment because they may help you out
I love that guy who shows up and, "...you know what you should do...." Thanks for the videos, cheers!!
Yes I have a generator that needs work but you guys are a blast to watch ! Love the skit...
Taryl, the fact that there are no skinny ropes on the windings broken or signs of overheating
means it is most like a GOOD generator. The yellow wires are for the EXCITER which makes
the spinning part which is a spinning FIELD and it turns into a powerful magnet, so that means
U have to have good brushes. Colman uses a black AND white wire to connect to the ends of
the STATOR. If there was a SHORT, it would be evidenced by a darker coil color and burned ropes
or twine. Disclaimer, no racial unkindness is meant here. SO use ur meter on the black and
white wires and I am VERY SURE you will find you have a good generator.
thank you , Taryl I'm glad there is someone like you out here teaching your knowledge
Seems it hasn’t been eight years to me, watch nearly all his videos 😊😊😊
I rewatched and know what is coming next 😮
most the time working on them coleman gen , i find the circuit board blown from people over powering the gen , still find them on ebay , cause colemen dont make rewplacements . great vid , thanks
In these alternators, the fixt winding or winding that does not move is known as a stator
pronounced by some as st8tor, spinning part is rotor, Taryl, some rotors have permanent
magnets attached to help start generating. The rotors had some residual field to them
but as u sed sometimes have to flash the field. St8or coils with yellow leads were the
exciter winding, they went to some diode/s to turn a.c. to d.c. to then go to the brushes.
the AVR auto voltage regulator sends current to brushes. if output volts are say 130,
the AVR sends less current to brushes and volts go back to 120. voltage goes down to
say 110, AVR sends more current to brushes and volts go to 120.hope it helps friend,
you really are a friend, I appreciate the work you put into your videoze, say hi to ur kats
4me?
great tutorial and explanation on flashing along with how everything works well done
Hi Taryl just wanted to say that the yellow and black windings that do NOT have continuity are NOT shorted, they are NOT shorted they are open. if working properly they should show a short from one end of the winding to the other with a small resistance. Granted they could be shorted to another winding which is what caused them to open, but as you showed them, they are open.
Wow, he figured my problem out in the first minute! I thank you so much!
I tried flashing my wife cause she wasn't putting out anymore. Didn't work.
Did you try AC as well as DC?
I tried flashing, doesn't go well in public (got arrested)
Never does LOL
did u get the 'polarity' right? I askt my Dad what a woman does for hot flashes,
sed she should use a lower amperage fuse.
Ya need continuity , did ya check for continuity ? She probably has an open somewhere , ya gotta find the opening .
Thanks for all the great diagnostic info shown in a fun way!
Thanks Taryl - that was mighty helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to help me, will try your advice. Thanks again !
Many thanks for your troubleshooting skills.
Hello Taryl, There are a few different ways these st8ors are or can be wound, Some put the
ends of the two 120 volt windings together to 1 white or gray wire. with a black at 1 end
and a blue or red at the other end. across the black, red or blue is 240 volts, but either black,
red or blue to the white or gray will give the 120 volts. Some have a white wire for each 120
volt winding. If u check resistance to both white wires and black an red or dark colored wires
are not hooked to a load, you will think you have a bad generator when you don't. Champion
power equip. is good. u can get manual for gen on line w wiring schematic ( not a scream in
the attic) Sometimes the white which is called a neutral is connected to frame as well as the
ground. if u have a bad appliance plugged in an touch frame of gener8or u might seriously
get to know it. that is known as a 'Bonded neutral' So my friend and I mean that in thanks for
ur great vids, b4 st send a generator to the electric chair, at least look online for the diagram
and u may find u have a good st8or after all.
The field windings each have a high temperature fuse that breaks the field circuit to avoid the windings catching fire if there is a shorted field or if the user is overloading the generator.
This fuse does not reset because engineers figure if they blow this fuse it's better it never work again than to give the user another chance to cause a fire.
This fuse can be replaced with one that resets once it cools down, or even be bypassed completely, but may result in a fire.
The fuse is wired next to the fields so they will get hot and is usually underneath an insulating wrap or sleeve ( orange sleeve on the older working generator as an example)
The same type of fuse is found in many consumer electronics that use an electric motor including fans.
This is really good video! I have one with me and it is PM3500 model. when I checked voltage output with the multimeter, the reading go back and forth between 10 V and 121v. when I am using a power drill, It runs smoothly. Is this normal to this model?
Best Damn Repair Videos on RUclips!!!
Great video Taryl!!
You have done'it again, real good information. Keep up the good work.
👍
You guys are the best. Keep up the good work ...and try to have a little fun.
You all have a future in the movies! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Very good information, I love working on small engines and also electrical issues. I feel like electrical engineer with all thees knowledge
These guys are great and hilarious at the same time 🤣🤣🤣
Taryl, If there is NO continuity, it means there is an 'OPEN' The rotating part is the 'FIELD'
the windings in the square part is the stator. In a starter motor, the part that turns is the
armature, with many windings and brass segments called the commutator.
My stator have 2 broken wire I will try to solder them tomorrow 😊 will see thanks for your help 😊
Entertainin' AND educational! Just love it! Thank you! :D
I'd be so pleased if you went between the blk an wht wires with the meter, u'd find u have a
good generator, I have seen these gens with 2 groups of wires a black and white per group.
the yellow wires are for the exciter circuit at goes to a capacitor a rectifier or set of diodes
then to the brushes. ALSO Taryl, if the windings were bad or shorted, they would be
DIS-COLORED Also the rotor with the slip rings is supposed to have a little bit of magnetism
to it, that makes a small a.c. voltage at the yellow wires, that small a.c. voltage goes to
the capacitor then to the rectifier to send D.C. to the sliprings and making the rotor a more
powerful magnet to make more power.
Taryl, on some powermate gens the coils of stator have their ends as black and white.
SO that means u need to check across black and white leads for continuity. The windings
are GOOD. if the windings were burned out, they'd be discolored and the twine ropes
would be broken.
thats what I was confused about, I get continuity between the black and white wires...so, does that mean the windings are good?....thanks
For the field wires on a Coleman Vertex 7500I have 2 connectors. One, yellows with one blue. Have continuity between the 2 yellows. Other connector, 2 blacks measuring open. Looks like I need a field coil?
I have a Coleman Powermate 5000 Maxa ER Plus maybe 12yrs old. It was used once by my nephew and when I got it back it wouldn't put any power out of plugs. I've checked everything you said to but haven't flashed it yet. And I'm curious where is the AVR?
Taryl, next time u get a generator fixt, measure d.c. volts across the brushes. This way u will
know what field voltage should be on THAT gener8or, so when/or if it craps out, u will know
what the field voltage is a.k.a. power to the brushes. Also check a.c. volts on what might be
two yellow wires, most likely exciter windings this way and ohms as well, if gen will not put out
u can get a good idea by checking ohms now to what they were when she was putting out.
Hey Tim.... Been experiencing a lot of ignition problems with Stihl lately... First a 441 now a 362.... Both came in with customer complaint of no spark when hot... Replaced the coil on the 441, basically because there is no definitive way to trouble shoot it... Worked fine, back again with same complaint... 362 cuts like a champ, made a dozen cuts in an 18" diameter log, never missed a beat... Not really expecting a diagnosis over the net, but are there any characteristic ignition probs n these saws that you are aware of Thanks, T
YUP, the ylw wires are for excitation they'd go to an AVR or a generator capacitor and
a rectifier to brushes. I really think the stator coils were black and white for 1 winding,
and the same for the other winding if it was a 120/240 volts generator.
Small engine king for sure, great info thanks Taryl
Great info and Funny stuff! I like it. I do have a question. I have a Homelite 4000. It doesn't produce power unless I take my wife's old hair drier and turn it on. If I am just trying to run 3 lights in my camper it won't energize. Since it works when I use the drier or kick on the coffee maker it's not a problem. But I wonder why I can't start the generator and recharge the camper battery with its charger or have all the lights in the trailer on and charge our cell phones until I hit it with a good load on it. Once its charging it produces power with a single cell phone charger. Something keeps it from energizing until it gets a pretty good draw. Thanks!
Taryl your the MAN ! Been a dedicated viewer for a long time and you helped me alot. I'm looking at a 19 hp Kawasaki mounted on a John Deere z-turn mower. It maybe 10 yrs old not sure. Problem is when the engine is cold, it starts pretty well BUT after it runs a while and you shut it off you have to crank and crank on it for it to start again. Do you or anyone have any suggestions ? When it runs it runs great, but after it gets warm and you shut it down you have to crank the crap out of it to restart. Help please.
+Keith Evans Try this Spray carb. or startin fluid in it when its hot & won't start. If it does start then you know its a fuel issue probably fuel pump or that solenoid on the carb. If it doesn't start next I would check spark & compression.
I tested continuity on the slipper rings, and I tested for it on the wires in the connector ging to the panel on the exterior with the outlets. All seem fine. I have a Powermate 5000 as well, but it is newer than the ones in this video. In the cover where the brushes are, I have just a bridge rectifier board and none of the other components. I cannot get more than 2 VAC out of the outles. I magnetized at the brushed terminals as well. My generator has two yellow wires coming from the big coil that feeds into the bridge rectifier board. I unplug that board and start the engine and I am only getting just under 2VAC at the end of those two yellow wires at the clip. I also ohmed out the slipper rings and it gives me a 38ohm reading... I am stumped, any ideas?
We want to see the Bike build brother, Cheers The Dizz
Thanks Taryl you fellers are awesome !
With all due respect Taryl, the rotor that has the sliprings which the brushes press against,
that is the 'FIELD' same as the spinning rotor in a car alternator. The other part of the gen-
er8or is known as the 'STATOR' as it is a 'STATIONARY or not moving WINDING. That is the
winding or coil you get your 120/240 volts from.
Good job, Great tips. Just one question. Why don't you have some style of hoist in your shop? Especially for the riding mowers.
Brilliant people love the videos thank you ❤️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
The armature rings where the brushes ride I have a tone on my meter but it is only when I move the meter tips around and even then it is fuzzy sounding, not a good tone. Thoughts?
Great videos Taryl.
This is the first time I've posted a comment on RUclips because there is info on this video that will incorrectly lead someone to think their generator is bad. That part that shows him checking the 2 white and 2 black wires on the field windings and him saying there should be continuity between them is incorrect. Having no continuity is the way it should be. There SHOULD BE CONTINUITY between one of the black wires and one of the white wires and then the other remaining black and white wire. I was pretty sure this was correct, but I waited to get my generator back running to make 100% sure before I posted this. My problem was the capacitor. Not trying to be contrary just to be aggravating, just trying to save someone from thinking their generator is bad.
Bingo. There should be small resistance between B-W on each coil - the two stator windings, And a small resistance on the yellow. Black to black should be open, and I think whiles are connected together.
So what would you say was wrong with a Coleman 6250 if 1 of the 110 plug works, but the other one & 220 one doesn’t work.
Wow men you really can pull a series for TV!!!
What IS that blue wire for? Some of these Coleman 5000 generators don't have it. The ones with the two diodes in the bottom of the rear housing do. The ones with the bridge rectifier don't.
I worked as a mechanic for 3 different John Deere dealers over the years, even pulled about 6 years with a Ford New Holland dealer. Living about 30 minutes inland from the coast in mississippi, generator knowledge is a must, we see a lot of hurricanes. I've taken brand new gens out of the box that had no output. Usually some may get bumped around during shipping knocking the magnetism out of the rotor. Without magnetism ya can't have electricity. I think I've used about every possible way to induce magnestism but my favorite is still the good old square 6 volt eveready battery, the one with the springs on top for terminals. Just a touch off will do it everytime......
I know this is old, but have you ever worked on "Reddy" brand type generators? My mother-in-law has one and has to use it frequently. It has a Honda engine that runs great, but recently stopped making voltage. My first guess is bad capacitor. I can't find any info about these old cheap generators. Thanks...Great vids
Or voltage regulator/diodes.
@@lciummo1 It was the capacitor. Found replacement online and fixed issue
Hey Guys, very entertaining for a generator repair vid, and nice teefers too. I have a Coleman Powermate 6875, very similar to the one yer workin' on, can you tell me where the wire goes to? The one that comes up from the bottom of the motor, not the ground wire, the other one, it has a quick disconnect connector on it. Thx man!!
Ok the second armature you had where the brushes ride on there on mine it's rougher then a cob so when I replace the brushes and with in 10-12 hours of run time it eats the brushes my question is can I replace what looks like bearings where the brushes mount
I heard that you could flash a generator by using a corded electric drill plugged into the dead generator, then manually spill the electric drill. That would produce a voltage to flash the generator.
Great information! Please tell us, are the field winding wires, the black, the white and the yellow are those the 3 phases of the output ?
Windings are between B-W (there are two). There should be a small resistance between them. Yellow to yellow also should have a small resistance. B-B should be open. W-W should be connected. The video is amusing.
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No continuity = open circuit, no? Great channel bro, thanks!
hey Taryl for those that are "dead" connect a drill into the outlet has to be a corded drill and turn it by hand then try it it should have recharged it. theres your dinner :)
@ Taryl Fixes All
wher u find parts for thm Coleman generators??
Nice one some , good info yet again.
Good Job Man thought i was going to have to use the engine on my generator for something else.
Very clear explanation thanks
Love the video entertainment and appreciate the info..... "and there's your dinner!"
The way I found to take that rotor off if they are stubborn heat the end of that bolt screw it in wait a second then tap head of bolt it helps alot..
That flash is due to the energy of the magnetic field, this is an inductive load, when Taryl
applied voltage to the slip rings, the two poles of the rotor became a powerful electro-
magnet and a powerful field of magnetic force was spread around the poles of the rotor.
Now, when Taryl removes the power, all the magnetic force that spread out around
the rotor, collapsed back into the coil of the rotor and built up a back voltage across those
windings. were a voltmeter across the windings when the power was removed, the meter
could have shown a voltage somewhat higher than the 12 volts he applied, that is whats
known as back voltage.
Hello Taryl, man that was good one. Educational and entertaining, reminds me of old original Scooby Doo. The good ones. Anyway going be doing couple generators. Try get um fixed. Moms got new champion yellow 4500 think just was working few times gas drained always when stored went use it several months later start right up no power output.. they put new brushes and little electric piece champion told them usually is. Nothing sent her husband drill method flachy trick nothing send this one have him watch so we can tear back apart and try.
I have a old companion 10 horse Tecumseh from Sears looks like Coleman 5000w. Needs looked at runs gave 40$ for it, have old sears 1100w gen. It's motor and gen. Head with no frame really probably 50$ or 60s maybe earlier 70s model needs look at. Gave 30 or 40 for runs okish, and just got older Coleman 1850 w greenish plastic end casings won't power output runs good looks good just no power output free gave to me. Needs look at. I wish I lived in ur neighborhood or u in mine lol . Well I have rambled enough need be in building fixing them so I'll holler later. Keep up great job man. Ain't easy being that good. 😂.stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
Information is wrong. The cover with outlets is wired differently. Yellow to yellow, white to black. Is the continuity. @TarylFixesAll
thanks mr. taryl for the information have a great day
+MultiChainsaw123 You know those piercin tools come in so handy I'm so glad I bought those. I'm sure you'll feel the same when you get yurs. Talk to ya later 123
Good information, Thanks
An easy way to pull the rotor off is to find a bolt with the proper threads and put teflon tape on it and put some water in the hole and screw the bolt on. The hydraulic pressure from the water will pop the rotor off
Good info. Thank you
On my field windings the while and black check ok but no continuity on the yellow ones? It the windings bad?
Some folks might need a drink to do that 😂
I love your videos Taryl. You done good!
Great video guys
that was a very good video ! thanks for sharing the expertise !
DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME SEARCHING FOR FIX STUFF. HERE'S YOUR DINNER! Thank you,Daryl.
👍thx man👍 Lovin’ those teeth!
(You 😜 crazy as hell) 😂😂