My favorite trick for urban terrain and dioramas is printed materials. Producing leaflets, newspaper, ballad-sellers' sheets, etc (as appropriate for the genre and time period) on just a regular laser printer, and then carefully stain them with thin washes to make them look appropriate to the scale. Things like posters can even be colored in this way. Graffiti is another nice way to get some of that lived-in feel for a structure, especially for Necromunda, or Orks.
with stripes, you can also pre-spray a couple of layers of AK's chipping medium, then spray your colored stripe over top, and then lightly reactivate the chipping fluid with a wet brush and get a very organic paint flaking effect so the stripe is a little more grim darky
I found that spongins a light metal colour onto a darker metal that was stained with a grime paint gives the metal a nice dinged look. Line it collided with a ton of stuff and got chipped.
Terrain is so much fun. Simple or complex, it's just relaxing and so low stress compared to miniature painting. And you can get so much done in so little time it's really rewarding.
Another cool trick you can use alongside this suite of techniques is to apply some splattering with your airbrush. Pull back and forward on the trigger without pushing down to build up paint on the tip and then press down on the trigger to dislodge the paint. If you don't have an airbrush you can also get a good result by flicking the tip of an old brush with a toothpick.
Or both together as I often do - put the paint on the end of the brush in a thick way, then blow with just air from the airbrush through the hairy brush! :)
About rust Grimdark Compendium have recently recommended a painting brand called Dirty Down. From what i can see, he was quite impressed with their paint called Rust Effect. From the looks of it its seems quite versatile in creating different shades of rust, the only downside he mentioned is that it dries very quickly and as such isn´t that well suited for a wet pallet.
Awesome! Love painting terrain and weathering to within an inch of its life! Going to apply some of these ideas to my MAD hab blocks I am about to paint! Many thanks for the video! Chris@HeX.
This is perfect timing for painting my Necromunda ash wastes terrain… I wanted to do white terrain for a mars theme, but also to use on any tabletop I happen to create
loving the grimdark. hope to see you grim some models up too. 40k Knights are really fun to grim up with grime and rust to give them a nightmarish look oh and one thing I did on my buildings for 40k was to add bloodspatter on the walls. makes it look like people have been shot or fought around there. really makes the building come alive and give it character!
Got to agree about terrain being relaxing. I find that because it's not for a specific army or anything that it's ok to experiment and try new things. I don't paint busts so I guess they would be a similar feeling. :-)
Just got my Killzone Fronteris Box and will try to replicate some of the methods. Thank you very much! Is that Base color building darker to lighter Grey's? It Looks almost Sand/bone, but that is from the grime, tinting it, right?
It really feels like the ultimate grimdark terrain tutorial, everything is there ! That red type works really well too ! Quick one, what is the black goo (which looks quite alien) that you use in addition to the masking tape?
To get a mottled, chipped/flaked off look to metal surfaces I like to cover them in enamel wash like AK streaking grime, rust streaks or engine grime. Then start wiping away a bit with white spirit on a q tip, leaving the area rather wet in a mix of spirit and diluted wash. While still wet I then immediately come back with an old torn n worn brush loaded with a slightly brighter acrylic metal colour than the original one. Stab it randomly. Leaves a nice natural texture as if sth had eaten away at the metal & its patina.
@@VinceVenturella 😊 I discovered this by chance while weathering a few necrons. The enamel wash and white spirit mix on the mini hadn't dried but nonetheless I gave adding scratches with acrylics a try. Turned out the enamel and the water based acrylic colour not only kept themselves somewhat apart (as one would expect) but also created a cool looking pattern. Depending on how much spirit/enamel is present in a spot it needs quite a bit of hitting it with the brush or loading the brush tips rather heavily with acrylic to make it stick. Slightly dipped the bristles of the brush in the acrylic and only whiped them off a little before stabbing if they had rather large blobs of paint on them that would be too uncontrollable.
Those AK materials look great - was a great eye opener/tip. So I bought a mixed pack of those and then the Battlezone Fronteris. You should get commission :)
Another invaluable bag of trick and tips. Basing and terrain can be such a stress relief and change of pace that I always look forward to. Copper is one of my favorite metals for minis and I'm wondering which color you used for the tanks. They look spectacular!
I'm so happy with today's hot news about the return of Squats (now - Leagues of Votann)! This means that the Warhammer 40,000 will live and will not become an addition to the Horse Heresy, as I feared. Also significant retcon of 40k lore is expected in the future, I'm always happy about it. I want more of the same for Warhammer Age of Sigmar too!
This week I found an old terrain video of yours and saw that I had already watched it and commented a year ago saying I was starting a terrain project. I’ve still not put any paint on that project but hope I can soon after watching this. I just need to finish Sanguinius first 😩
Best Video I've seen so far. Watched it several times. thanks a lot man. I'd just like to know how long do you usually wait after the enamel wash has been applied before wiping it off?
Tip #3 - Did you varnish or not? I suspect you didn't? Q1: What terrain piece is this / where is it from? Q2: Do you plan on showing your version of painting Into the Dark terrain?
I've used actual rust on my models, like from the old brillo pad that you, yes you, have under your sink right now. Use it like pigment, looked just like rust. Because it was.
This made these buildings so much more appealing as a product 🤣 Like almost everything GW produces it often looks better to me once someone not GW has painted it.....
@@VinceVenturella You’re welcome. Thank you for inspiring me to be confident enough to paint all my scenery in anything other than just grim dark rust 🤪
Vince: This looks cool. Which piece of terrain is this ? Also what do you recommend about for scratch built terrain, do the techniques change, or would you say they are the same ?
Vince, that looked like an awful lot of AK grime! Oil wash a little cheaper to achieve a similar effect? Can you airbrush streaking grime etc or more at risk of ruining the equipment?
It was a decent amount but yes, oil wash can do the same thing. You can certainly airbrush it, it’s no issue, you just have to use white spirits to clean the airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella I tried it again with with AK Matt varnish and it still strip it. It doesn't affect the black primer I used underneath, it only affects the white I used on top. I just airbrushed it instead and it worked fine
The colors are fairly arbitrary, but basically the zenithal is just standard white primer, the color over the top was an ivory, the red was burnt red and then the metals were vallejo metal color. Then you have streaking grime (standard) and some rhinox hide and black for the weathering.
@@travisellis9230 Harder, expensive, time consuming, wasteful. :) - with this, you just lay down the putty, spray, pick it up and put it back in it;s container. I never tape unless I need the straight line like you saw here. :)
Great work Vince, its not hard to envision these techniques going straight onto a mini as well. How do you find pigment washes? I tend to use pigments by adding water, then when they dry you just brush over them, tends to control the placement a little easier
Pigments or oil colours with a mix of isopropyl and water also work great for creating stains / marks that look like residue left behind by dried liquids, e.g. as if there once was a waterline or a spill that dried. If I remember correctly the mix I tried on a terrain piece some time ago almost looked like paint that's diluted just to the point of breaking down.
Was thinking, do you actually want terrain that looks poppy. Or just works as a secondary backdrop like the board itself. Last thing you'd want is your minis getting lost in the colors of your terrain. However when loads of armies I've seen are either gray or dark drab, it might contrast more by having the terrain be punchy
Oh and I've considered dusting the base of the terrain the same dusty color as the board. Haven't tried it yet, but it might help blend it into the board a lot more.
I think this is here is the right way, they are interesting and valid, but they aren't synthwave or anything so they aren't stealing attention. Interesting but not grabbing.
I'm sure it'll be a long while before it's really a "problem" if ever, but do you have any favorite substitutes for Secret Weapon's rust and rubber colors now that the company has, unfortunately, closed down? I assume since Reaper was the maker they've probably got/will get at some point a straight up hue substitute in their main lines. Thank you!
whenever i try to use abit of mineral spirits on oil washes it seems to take everything off, even the primer. I have used rattle can primers and army painter black primer.
It shouldn't mineral spirits don't interact with acryllic paints in any way. Are you wiping with the brush and applying pressure, its very wet and making acryllic paint wet can remove it under pressure, you want to basically tap at the miniature or wipe very lightly.
I recently got this terrain set and will be running it on a game mat that's snow and rock, would I want to use a light grey to tie this into the table instead of the sepia?
Hi Vinve, another realy informative vid, wel done. I want to ask a question about a possible future video. I've just finnished watching your aaaaaaaacontrast paints video. Will you be making a similar video about the Army Painter version? Kind Regards Steve Gee Stay safe and stay well.
Vince! I somehow missed the announcement of your Patreon and I see that your $50 tier is sold out. I am super saddened. Is there anyway you can slot one more person in? 🙏
I've had many requests similar and there is no way for me to add an individual, but you can always join the Review and Feedback, that is also a good way to get feedback and watch for more spots to open up, I am rolling it slowly to see what I can handle each month.
For the streaking grime step, is there any reason not to do that with a heavy wash of oil paints? Maybe burnt umber, black, and a tiny bit of dark green? Would any of the advice change? I've got a *lot* of Necromunda terrain to do, so going to town with tubes of oil paints is probably more cost effective than using specialty hobby paints.
Do the fumes from the white/mineral spirits every bother you? Do you limit the time you work with them? Also, do you happen to hapen a nice diy recipe for Typhus Corrosion?
Not really, but I have no sense of smell. It's always a good idea to use them in a well ventihlated area. As to Typhus, a dark black/brown plus some actual raw pigment can get you there.
Totally unrelated, but what is the best bone-coloured ink (etc) for a top-down warm airbrush zenithial? Liquitex and FW don't seem to have such a colour in their ink ranges (the lines many people seem to use for white zenithial).
Yes, it's the same and they won't they don't react with acryllic paint. THey are a bunch of wetness, and with acryllic paint, if you get it very wet, and then poke your brush around, you can pull up paint.
@@VinceVenturella thank you! One more question if you don’t mind. I notice in this video you sort of stayed away from a rough drybrush of the edges. Do you feel that look wild detract from the grim dark look?
Vince: wears gloves to paint
Also Vince: dips bare hand into methalted spirit
My favorite trick for urban terrain and dioramas is printed materials. Producing leaflets, newspaper, ballad-sellers' sheets, etc (as appropriate for the genre and time period) on just a regular laser printer, and then carefully stain them with thin washes to make them look appropriate to the scale. Things like posters can even be colored in this way. Graffiti is another nice way to get some of that lived-in feel for a structure, especially for Necromunda, or Orks.
Absolutely!
Ive been having anxiety about painting everything, even terrain. Good to think of it as more of a relaxing proccess
This project genuinely looked fun and I’m walking away feeling relaxed and inspired
Awesome
I took my unpainted buildings out the shelf. I then saw this video was uploaded. Perfect timing. Awesome video. Gracias
Excellent
with stripes, you can also pre-spray a couple of layers of AK's chipping medium, then spray your colored stripe over top, and then lightly reactivate the chipping fluid with a wet brush and get a very organic paint flaking effect so the stripe is a little more grim darky
That's a great idea!
I found that spongins a light metal colour onto a darker metal that was stained with a grime paint gives the metal a nice dinged look. Line it collided with a ton of stuff and got chipped.
Good tip!
Terrain is so much fun. Simple or complex, it's just relaxing and so low stress compared to miniature painting. And you can get so much done in so little time it's really rewarding.
Absolutely.
I have a whole lot of terrain for Necromunda to paint so I'm sure I'll be coming back to this video many times. Thanks Vince.
Happy to help.
Contrast paints for streaks is something I discovered (hooray for experimentation!) last week - it might be one of their best 'unintended extra uses'
Absolutely. :)
Also by using our friend the sponge you can do all sorts of really cool camouflage techniques through sponging you do not need an airbrush
Great tool for sure.
Great tips! This gives me a good starting point for some Battletech terrain I've been itching to paint.
Airbrush that streaking grime on neat, saves a lot of time, works super well
Yep, I do that in some former videos, I just wanted to keep this one more simple.
Great tips, and you perfectly encapsulated why I have so much fun painting terrain. It's just a wonderful, low-stakes bit of pure FUN painting.
Glad it was helpful!
Verdigris on copper is a great detail. Thanks!
You bet!
Another cool trick you can use alongside this suite of techniques is to apply some splattering with your airbrush. Pull back and forward on the trigger without pushing down to build up paint on the tip and then press down on the trigger to dislodge the paint. If you don't have an airbrush you can also get a good result by flicking the tip of an old brush with a toothpick.
Or both together as I often do - put the paint on the end of the brush in a thick way, then blow with just air from the airbrush through the hairy brush! :)
Thank you for your jump into terrain every once in a while; you always have great tips no matter whether beast or building!
Thanks!
Vince, you are the new Bob Ross. I love watching your vids in the mornings. Great pacing and fun tips! Great stuff - thanks for sharing this!
Knocking over a pot of Nuln Oil is now just a happy accident.
Glad you like them! That is high praise indeed. :)
About rust Grimdark Compendium have recently recommended a painting brand called Dirty Down.
From what i can see, he was quite impressed with their paint called Rust Effect.
From the looks of it its seems quite versatile in creating different shades of rust, the only downside he mentioned is that it dries very quickly and as such isn´t that well suited for a wet pallet.
DD Rust is great, just use it out of the pot with an old brush and lay it on
I plan to give it a try sometime soon. :)
Awesome! Love painting terrain and weathering to within an inch of its life! Going to apply some of these ideas to my MAD hab blocks I am about to paint! Many thanks for the video! Chris@HeX.
This is perfect timing for painting my Necromunda ash wastes terrain… I wanted to do white terrain for a mars theme, but also to use on any tabletop I happen to create
Excellent.
loving the grimdark. hope to see you grim some models up too. 40k Knights are really fun to grim up with grime and rust to give them a nightmarish look
oh and one thing I did on my buildings for 40k was to add bloodspatter on the walls. makes it look like people have been shot or fought around there. really makes the building come alive and give it character!
Yep, the blood spatter is another good tip for sure. :)
This is the most helpful video I have watched this week!
Fully inspired to build and paint my Necromunda terrain kit now- thanks Vince!
Awesome!
5:40 Also you can use the Blue Paper towels, they're shop towels that dont leave behind any fibers 👌
It's a good tip!
Got to agree about terrain being relaxing. I find that because it's not for a specific army or anything that it's ok to experiment and try new things. I don't paint busts so I guess they would be a similar feeling. :-)
Absolutely.
Gonna try these techniques on next project. Thanks for ideas.
Go for it!
That part where you're spraying white and then all of a sudden colour and black slime stuff appeared, I thought I was hallucinating 😂
You were not, I had a little grease on there that I had to clean up. :)
Love it when you paint terrain
It's always fun and relaxing. :)
I've been really enjoying Starship Wash instead of Streaking Grime for a proper "Everything is just a little bit dirty" wash.
I agree, I was actually out of that and so used normal Streaking Grime. ;)
I picked up the Nachmund set last week - this will come in very useful!!
Wonderful!
Just got my Killzone Fronteris Box and will try to replicate some of the methods. Thank you very much!
Is that Base color building darker to lighter Grey's? It Looks almost Sand/bone, but that is from the grime, tinting it, right?
I'm currently doing some terrain for RiH/AoS and you're right. It's so much more zen.
Absolutely.
Damnit Vince. I wasn't going to get this kit and now you made me get it...
My apologies. ;)
It really feels like the ultimate grimdark terrain tutorial, everything is there ! That red type works really well too ! Quick one, what is the black goo (which looks quite alien) that you use in addition to the masking tape?
Believe its AK masking putty, pretty similar to the children’s toy Silly Putty.
@@sebastiangurgul6712 Thanks, hadnt come across it.
Yep, AK masking putty
To get a mottled, chipped/flaked off look to metal surfaces I like to cover them in enamel wash like AK streaking grime, rust streaks or engine grime. Then start wiping away a bit with white spirit on a q tip, leaving the area rather wet in a mix of spirit and diluted wash. While still wet I then immediately come back with an old torn n worn brush loaded with a slightly brighter acrylic metal colour than the original one. Stab it randomly. Leaves a nice natural texture as if sth had eaten away at the metal & its patina.
Love this idea!
@@VinceVenturella 😊 I discovered this by chance while weathering a few necrons. The enamel wash and white spirit mix on the mini hadn't dried but nonetheless I gave adding scratches with acrylics a try. Turned out the enamel and the water based acrylic colour not only kept themselves somewhat apart (as one would expect) but also created a cool looking pattern. Depending on how much spirit/enamel is present in a spot it needs quite a bit of hitting it with the brush or loading the brush tips rather heavily with acrylic to make it stick. Slightly dipped the bristles of the brush in the acrylic and only whiped them off a little before stabbing if they had rather large blobs of paint on them that would be too uncontrollable.
Those AK materials look great - was a great eye opener/tip. So I bought a mixed pack of those and then the Battlezone Fronteris.
You should get commission :)
Sadly, no commision for me, but glad to be helpful. :)
Really good, informative video. Thanks so much!
Amazing. Always superb content, thanks so much for taking the time to share and produce.
Happy to help.
Really great tips in this. Nice and easy to follow. Just need to practice! Thanks for the useful info as always!
Thanks!
I think it would be cool to have a terrain category in Golden Demon
That would be excellent.
Another invaluable bag of trick and tips. Basing and terrain can be such a stress relief and change of pace that I always look forward to.
Copper is one of my favorite metals for minis and I'm wondering which color you used for the tanks. They look spectacular!
Just Vallejo Metal Color Copper with a little copper pigment from Green Stuff World mixed in.
Vince, you are my hobby hero!
Thanks!
I'm so happy with today's hot news about the return of Squats (now - Leagues of Votann)! This means that the Warhammer 40,000 will live and will not become an addition to the Horse Heresy, as I feared.
Also significant retcon of 40k lore is expected in the future, I'm always happy about it. I want more of the same for Warhammer Age of Sigmar too!
It was a big announcement for sure.
Music in the interlude scared me 😊
Would love to see Kill Team and Warcry terrain being done.
I am sure there will be more terrain in teh future. :)
The results and the guide are amazing! Did you paint the whole terrain set in this scheme? If yes, where can i see pics of that? Appreciate
Glad you enjoyed it. I didn't get to paint the rest of the terrain yet, but I plan to in this same scheme. I always share everything on my socials. :)
@@VinceVenturella cool thing, that you answer every question comment. Appreciate
Good stuff. I'm inspired. and I gotta get some of that streaky grime stuff...
Awesome
What a legend!
A good rule for keeping things random is the mathematical notion that "Randomness is lumpy".
Absolutely!
This week I found an old terrain video of yours and saw that I had already watched it and commented a year ago saying I was starting a terrain project. I’ve still not put any paint on that project but hope I can soon after watching this. I just need to finish Sanguinius first 😩
No time like the present! :)
@@VinceVenturella is that Vallejo Metal Color for the copper? I’ve been meaning to invest in some of the range
@@ellisowendaniel yes indeed
Wonderful tutorial….thanks very much for the excellent tips and techniques!
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video, you must show us a full table!
Maybe one day! (When I have the time to paint more of this wonderful terrain). :)
Ever want to know how a moonlight still will look in 40k? Watch the video. Great video btw.
Thanks!
This is great but it would be very helpful to have a full paints list used.
Noted!
Top notch work, thanks a lot
Thanks!
Great video
Thanks!
You got robbed of your golden demon. Your tighten should’ve won something!
Such is life, next time we'll get em. :)
I love it! Thanks for the great tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Best Video I've seen so far. Watched it several times. thanks a lot man. I'd just like to know how long do you usually wait after the enamel wash has been applied before wiping it off?
15-20 minutes.
Awesome video! But you never said whether or not you applied a coat of varnish before you applied the streaking grime 🤔
I did varnish before, it's not strictly necessary, but it can make it easier.
@@VinceVenturella Ok awesome, thanks for the response.
Tip #3 - Did you varnish or not? I suspect you didn't?
Q1: What terrain piece is this / where is it from?
Q2: Do you plan on showing your version of painting Into the Dark terrain?
I did not varnish.
1. From the recent 40k terrain box set.
2. Didn’t get that box, so I am not sure yet. Uncle Adam did a nice version.
Amazing, thanks for the tutorial :)
You're welcome!
On tip #7, get the piece wet and then let it dry naturally. The places where it is still wet are those places
It's a great tip!
You can zenithal terrain. Just dump a can of white paint over it and you're good.
There you go, you also get the texture ;)
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks!
I've used actual rust on my models, like from the old brillo pad that you, yes you, have under your sink right now. Use it like pigment, looked just like rust. Because it was.
That's an awesome idea.
So good!
Thanks!
This made these buildings so much more appealing as a product 🤣 Like almost everything GW produces it often looks better to me once someone not GW has painted it.....
There you go. :)
Awesomeness!! 👏
Thank you! 😁
@@VinceVenturella You’re welcome. Thank you for inspiring me to be confident enough to paint all my scenery in anything other than just grim dark rust 🤪
awesome video thank you.
Thanks!
Great video! Any thoughts on applying the streaking grime via the airbrush vs the traditional brush?
Both work just fine, I've airbrushed it in previous videos, I just wanted to keep this simple.
Vince: This looks cool. Which piece of terrain is this ? Also what do you recommend about for scratch built terrain, do the techniques change, or would you say they are the same ?
It's from the new Nachmund set. Same techniques for scratch building.
Espectacular job 👍👍
Thanks!
Greta video vince. Do you use a typical neoprene fat mat for your table or do you build your own tables?
Just a typical matte, though I have a wide variance of terrain.
This is great!
Vince, that looked like an awful lot of AK grime! Oil wash a little cheaper to achieve a similar effect?
Can you airbrush streaking grime etc or more at risk of ruining the equipment?
It was a decent amount but yes, oil wash can do the same thing. You can certainly airbrush it, it’s no issue, you just have to use white spirits to clean the airbrush.
Your dog is going to look for his toy sock and then see this video, you know he/she is going to urinate in your shoe for revenge!
Fortunately, they have many socks. :)
very nice video
Thanks
Great job! I would like to ask if you add any varnish at the end to seal everything?
I varnished before the metallics. Not after that.
Could you do a fantasy one too. Great vid as usual Vince.
Great suggestion! On it.
Great video. I'd like to know why you used contrast paint for streaks vs. Using streaking grim?
More control over thin streaks. Streaking Grime itself is more for stains and or streaked areas as opposed to individual running drips.
Could have mentioned that the streaking from would strip spray paint
I've never had that happen. Did you varnish the model before the grime (not strictly necesary, but can help prevent that).
@@VinceVenturella I tried it again with with AK Matt varnish and it still strip it. It doesn't affect the black primer I used underneath, it only affects the white I used on top.
I just airbrushed it instead and it worked fine
this is very nice! Any chance you could drop the colors used if we wanted to follow the visuals on this?
The colors are fairly arbitrary, but basically the zenithal is just standard white primer, the color over the top was an ivory, the red was burnt red and then the metals were vallejo metal color. Then you have streaking grime (standard) and some rhinox hide and black for the weathering.
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much !
Tip #2 - what is that stuff you are using? I see masking tape and what appears to be some alien substance. :D
So it's AK interactive Putty (basically silly putty, and yes you can use Silly Putty).
@@VinceVenturella Is that just because covering a large area with tape would be a lot harder?
@@travisellis9230 Harder, expensive, time consuming, wasteful. :) - with this, you just lay down the putty, spray, pick it up and put it back in it;s container. I never tape unless I need the straight line like you saw here. :)
Great work Vince, its not hard to envision these techniques going straight onto a mini as well.
How do you find pigment washes? I tend to use pigments by adding water, then when they dry you just brush over them, tends to control the placement a little easier
Yep, pigment washes are another great technique, really helps get the pigment down in those deep crevices for that great rusty look.
Pigments or oil colours with a mix of isopropyl and water also work great for creating stains / marks that look like residue left behind by dried liquids, e.g. as if there once was a waterline or a spill that dried. If I remember correctly the mix I tried on a terrain piece some time ago almost looked like paint that's diluted just to the point of breaking down.
@@blacktemplar667 will have to give that's a go, hadn't heard of that trick. Cheers!
Awesome as usual ;)
Thanks!
Was thinking, do you actually want terrain that looks poppy. Or just works as a secondary backdrop like the board itself. Last thing you'd want is your minis getting lost in the colors of your terrain.
However when loads of armies I've seen are either gray or dark drab, it might contrast more by having the terrain be punchy
Oh and I've considered dusting the base of the terrain the same dusty color as the board. Haven't tried it yet, but it might help blend it into the board a lot more.
grimdark schemes are desaturated by nature, so its unlikely the terrain will overshadow the models
I think this is here is the right way, they are interesting and valid, but they aren't synthwave or anything so they aren't stealing attention. Interesting but not grabbing.
Is this the result of that weathered white truck that you saw on your way to a -con?
No, this was done in advance of that. :)
This project is just awesome ... Which Sepia Ink did you use?
This was Daler Rowney FW Sepia
@@VinceVenturella Thank you very much!!
I'm sure it'll be a long while before it's really a "problem" if ever, but do you have any favorite substitutes for Secret Weapon's rust and rubber colors now that the company has, unfortunately, closed down? I assume since Reaper was the maker they've probably got/will get at some point a straight up hue substitute in their main lines.
Thank you!
Well, the browns are easier, you can use basically any browns. That rubber is going to be hard to replace.
whenever i try to use abit of mineral spirits on oil washes it seems to take everything off, even the primer. I have used rattle can primers and army painter black primer.
It shouldn't mineral spirits don't interact with acryllic paints in any way. Are you wiping with the brush and applying pressure, its very wet and making acryllic paint wet can remove it under pressure, you want to basically tap at the miniature or wipe very lightly.
I recently got this terrain set and will be running it on a game mat that's snow and rock, would I want to use a light grey to tie this into the table instead of the sepia?
Absolutely. :)
Hi Vinve, another realy informative vid, wel done. I want to ask a question about a possible future video. I've just finnished watching your aaaaaaaacontrast paints video. Will you be making a similar video about the Army Painter version?
Kind Regards
Steve Gee
Stay safe and stay well.
Yep, need to get my hands on a set. :)
Vince! I somehow missed the announcement of your Patreon and I see that your $50 tier is sold out. I am super saddened. Is there anyway you can slot one more person in? 🙏
I've had many requests similar and there is no way for me to add an individual, but you can always join the Review and Feedback, that is also a good way to get feedback and watch for more spots to open up, I am rolling it slowly to see what I can handle each month.
@@VinceVenturella Joined! Thanks :)
For the streaking grime step, is there any reason not to do that with a heavy wash of oil paints? Maybe burnt umber, black, and a tiny bit of dark green? Would any of the advice change?
I've got a *lot* of Necromunda terrain to do, so going to town with tubes of oil paints is probably more cost effective than using specialty hobby paints.
You could do it with oil paints instead, I just find grime easier to work with as it dries faster and can be painted over more easily. :)
Hi Vince, i'm going to varnish models with a mix of ultra matte and satin varnish. What is a good ratio to start with? I'll play round with it a bit.
I like 2 Satin to 3 Ultra Matte.
Do the fumes from the white/mineral spirits every bother you? Do you limit the time you work with them? Also, do you happen to hapen a nice diy recipe for Typhus Corrosion?
Not really, but I have no sense of smell. It's always a good idea to use them in a well ventihlated area. As to Typhus, a dark black/brown plus some actual raw pigment can get you there.
Totally unrelated, but what is the best bone-coloured ink (etc) for a top-down warm airbrush zenithial?
Liquitex and FW don't seem to have such a colour in their ink ranges (the lines many people seem to use for white zenithial).
I've never really seen a good bone colored ink, I just use traditional ivory paint and thin it down. Pro Acryl is a go to favorite for me.
Quick question on your white spirit - is sansodor thinner the same? I assumed white spirit would strip the acrylics off?
Yes, it's the same and they won't they don't react with acryllic paint. THey are a bunch of wetness, and with acryllic paint, if you get it very wet, and then poke your brush around, you can pull up paint.
@@VinceVenturella thank you! One more question if you don’t mind. I notice in this video you sort of stayed away from a rough drybrush of the edges. Do you feel that look wild detract from the grim dark look?
Hi and thx for the video.
Beautifull piece of terrain, where can I find this building?
It came up for preorder today.
Nachmund Terrain from GW.