Looks great Vince - as a former Tank and Armoured vehicle Commander and Driving/Servicing instructor there are some areas that you could improved. Scratches on the side of the tank are rarely vertices they are always almost horizontal with the ground. The front of the tank, will have vertical scratches from where it runs over things. Lastly the horizontal plates of the tank with exposed tracks like this will also be heavily dusted/stained in particular where the dust/mud will flick up the back of the tank and onto even the turret. If you really wanted to get realistic there are some tips for you. Thanks.
One of the other things that I have seen in the armor modeling community is to treat the entire weathering process as a step -- you apply scratches, then dirt, then rust, then you do it all again one or two more times, as the vehicle picks up additional scrapes and grime over time, rather than all at once -- so you will have some places where you have scratches on top of dirt previously accumulated on the vehicle, and grime on top of old scratches and rust, so it doesn't look as if all the weathering happened at once and then was done; vehicles don't get used that way. They get driven, and dirty, and scrape through brush and whatnot, and do it again and again until they get brought in for depot service and cleaned, so it's not going to be just one layer of each type of weathering.
What I love about your tutorials is you explain what you're doing and why. I hate tutorials that don't take their time explaining their thoughts and choices. Especially in art tutorials. My brain likes rational explanations and when I am following a tutorial I'm watching someone go from a rough idea to a finished idea. I can't see the idea you're working towards in your head, unless I skip around the video a bunch, but that just makes things unnecessarily complicated. I just wanted to let you know it means a lot. I can only count a few artists like you that follow the same recipe.
Brilliant! I don't paint many tanks, but I think I could use a lot of that weathering advice on power armour too. As always, I really appreciate all the wisdom you push out to us here in the hobby.
Great paint job! Something I do to sell the environmental aspect of a dusty area is to put the pigment on the top surface of the vehicle and those deeper/ triangular recesses as well. If these are moving in formations or with other equipment, the dust will kick up (albeit finer and not as much) up on top. What was done here is more applicable to tanks driving through mud or not so dry dirt, vs dust/sand. Still, that 100 hours of work is intense and it turned out really awesome! Almost kills me when I spend hours on prep and then bust out the AK streaking grime 😅.
I think this is a great example of how varied the quality levels are in different corners of the hobby. (Not just this) most golden demon winning vehicles wouldn't place at a scale model convention because techniques is typically pretty poor by comparison. Similarly scale modelers struggle to win a GD because the pallette is typically not right for the genre. Then there is the rare individuals who master both and use slayer swords as cutlery because they have so many.
It's very interesting watching different facets of miniature hobby painting, all the different techniques and paints tank people use compared to Napoleonic people compared to 40k ect. Also the bleeding of skills between them, like oil washes getting more screen time in the 40k world whereas it's old news in the tank world.
And if you look at actual pieces of tracked equipment the track pads will typically always be painted when new. They're steel, manufacturers don't want them rusted out by the time they are installed. Great video! Tanks are cool! Imperial Fists are cool! Love this kind of stuff!
I know it's unnecessary work, but I often paint over decals, using them as a guide to paint the symbols. It's extra work, but they blend in well with the over all paintjob then. Great video, as always.
22:15 have tested a bunch of different option for sticking pigment to bases and mini's, with the goal of not altering the finish. Water works great, but has a very high surface tension, witch is not ideal if you want the liquid to spread on it's own. I tried 99% IPA, 50%, 20% and 10% and basically 50% has a nice low surface tension, but you get tidemarks from the IPA damaging the paint. Basically when you add iso to lower the surface tension sufficiently, it will start eating at your paintjob. I tried AK ultra matt varnish (high surface tension; doesn't alter the color of the pigment, but does make little clumps; really sturdy afterwards, so nice for gaming models), Vallejo airbrush thinner (low surface tension; damages paintjob; looks like cookie dough; not a great look); Vallejo airbrush flow improver (high surface tension; darkens the finish; damages the paintjob, but a little less than thinner); W&N Sansodor (low surface tension; ver slow drying time compared to the rest (did not expect that); doesn't alter the finish; slow drying time has the benefit that you can remove some of the pigment from the raised area's later; for a 25mm round base just add 1 drop, it will be enough and spread by its own). For now I will experiment more with the Sansodor (fancy name for white spirits).
If you haven't checked out that "Dirty Down Rust" paint (which is lie $20 a bottle), you might want too. That stuff is AMAZING for rust effects. Goblin Hut and Artis Opus sells it. For the US, i'd go Goblin Hut.
I've always been intimidated by large tanks and vehicles that have large flat surfaces so this has given me the encouragement I'll need to tackle a project I've had in my head for a while
Awesome video as always, Vince! Gotta say the outro music goes hard because I had this playing over the speakers at almost 11pm and the bass was enough to wake my wife haha. Worth the look of doom I received.
As an armored vehicles model enthusiast, there are a few minor things I missed: Dust effect don't just collect around the bottom of the tank, but everywhere around it. A very simple approach to dust effect is chipping medium, then a thin airbrush filter of dust, then either stipple or streaking motion to reactivate the chipping medium and this creates very nice dust effect with rainmarks. Also, real debree can collect literally on top of the tank. Another few suggestions can be dirt splashes and earth texture around the bottom. Also, for competition and display purposes, doing real battle dammage such as bullet holes or damaged panels can be good, and on real life tanks, soldiers use to take their stuff around the tank, such as helmets, tools, boxes, etc. Real pleasure to watch nevertheless Vince! Greetings from Spain
Thanks!! I think I asked for this video a month or two ago so I really appreciate you putting it out! I was painting a Xiphon Interceptor, and used colour modulation on the wings. The wings are just so flat and I really wanted to play with the light and dark elements!
Lovely work! For treads etc, I've made myself a few bottles of various pigments and ISO. Give them a quick stir and a few seconds on the vortex mixer and you can just use it straight out of the bottle (as a solution the pigment settles very quickly). Its a very cheap & dirty way of getting the same effect as AK's various rust/dust/dirt washes without having to wick anything away with white spirit, plus the ISO helps it bond to the surface of whatever it is you're applying it to.
I think the main cannon could've used some extra attention. I think that is a melta cannon, so heat discoloration would look really good on it I think. Other than that fantastic job as always.
Personal opinion, but heat discoloration is way overdone and usually doesn't look great - because the painter always goes overboard. You know how about five years ago everybody was hating on OSL because everybody was doing it on everything? That's how I feel about heat discoloration.
A method that I use to flatten out my decals relatively quickly is to come in with a damp paper towel while my micro sol is drying and press down to push the air out. It's worked wonders for my shoulder pads, at least. :)
Technique is fine, as usual, but the weathering does not convince me particularly, because it is not distributed naturally across the vehicle: 1. Microscratches and paint chipping should be more dense where contact is made regularly: At the front of the vehicle, and around hatches where the crew is often moving on the vehicle - and not just on the edges there, but also in the flat surfaces. 2. Dust and dirt from driving around is prominent on the front of the vehicle (again), and at the back upwards from the drive wheels - the tracks are the most dirty when they leave the ground at the back of the tank and the upwards-forward movement of the tracks is constantly splashing up fresh dirt there. These are my constructive two cents.
When I did my vindicator I applied my decals before the oil wash and that also took the stark white out of the Fists' chapter badge. Though I think that did dirty them up a bit too much. Really useful video as always. I have a lot of yellow tanks I need to paint and this is exactly the look I'm trying to achieve.
What else I recommended this is only because I'm reading the latest book in The siege of terror if you want to try to do mud looking vallejo's range of mud European thick mud industrial mud that has an incredible look when it's finished and it's also cheaper than gw's basic material and you get more of it
I hope one day you'll tackle something EC related. For a fan of purples and pink, there's quite a lack of III legion love! Maybe your marine video, but done for horus heresy legion?
i hardly like any videos, but i like this along with your other videos. I love that you dont act all whacky and make retarted jokes. I like how you explain all these great techniques. Really good stuff mate, keep it up
Looks awesome, the highlights are killer. I do have one question; how would you approach metallic vehicles? Like for Iron Warriors or Grey Knights? I really struggle resolving highlights in a convincing way
Just found this channel. Thanks to NInjon and Miniac! I love how you teach and it makes your incredible work seem possible for someone like me. Greetings from Wooster, Ohio and Happy New Year!
une fois encore BRAVO .... j aimerais savoir après avoir passé les derniers pigments vernisez-vous en mat ?? et a l'aérographe ? merci encore pour la vidéo.
Hi I’m new to painting minis and I find you videos invaluable to my painting journey. My question is, when you totally completed the tank, what do you use to seal the completed piece, varnish etc..
Lovely, and near perfect timing as usual. I don't normally paint vehicles but yesterday I found the lost pieces of a partially put together Forgeworld Land Raider (I want to say Helios...) conversion kit I bought about 20 years ago :) So might have to give a kick ass tank a go.
16:20 -- If you're going to go for maximum realism, you want to repeat the weathering sequence as many times as you feel you need to get the effect you want -- first the base vehicle, then damage to the paint from operation, then environmental grunge, then you do the damage again, then more grunge, and back around if you want. The vehicle won't be taken out and getting beaten up, then dragged through the dirt, and that's the end of it -- being beaten up and dirtied is an ongoing process, putting multiple layers of wear on the vehicle -- so you can have scratches and wear cutting through older dried mud, or crew climbing on the vehicle wearing off accumulated dust, and possibly a fresh mud spatter over the bootprints in the dust, depending on the environment the vehicle is operating in and how long it's been since the vehicle has been given depot service. Each weathering loop shouldn't be as heavy as doing it all in one go, because it's an ongoing process, accumulating damage and grunge over time. Another detail is replacement parts. It's not as easy to do with 40K vehicles, because the components are more integral, but you can see US combat vehicles that have had reactive armor panels replaced, and the replacement is a different color because that's what was available, or a different shade because it's new and unworn. To use the Kratos as an example, you have the side guns left off for most of the video, but one could have a different color scheme, or a bright, clean, unworn one, because the vehicle had been damaged in a previous action and the side cannon module was replaced (or even a more heavily-worn one, beaten up and missing most of its paint because it was scavenged from a knocked-out vehicle too badly damaged to repair).
Where do you draw the line when it comes to muds, dirt, etc etc for realistic vs reasonable workload? Also, outside of wear and tear damage, how would you go about modeling actual battle-damage? Im struggling with getting started on my Tau vehicles as I dont know how I’ll go about the “look like active deployment” state. I’ve spent a lot of time watching the Night Shift channel, but man the absolutely sense of impeccable detail he does feels both intimidating, paralyzing, and inspiring.
I have several videos on battle damage in the playlist, but the answer is - there is no one right answer for what is realistic. There are guidelines - such as weather more where there would be contact with other objects, toward the legs of walkers or the front of tanks - but in the end, you can decide where and how far you want to go - I would experiement around and see what level of weathering suits your project. Here is another video on it - ruclips.net/video/1mhVUKELXuo/видео.html
Martin is amazing. Trying to match his level is difficult, but try techniques in the hard to see areas first. That way, if you aren't satisfied, it isn't visible. Just think of it as practice
Hi Vince. Great video and resource. I wanted to ask about the pigment step at the end. Do you need to do anything to “lock” the pigment in? I’m looking to experiment with pigments, but not sure if you need to wet it with some sort of medium afterwards for it to stay in place. Thanks.
Hi Vince. A very interesting video. As someone who does not play Warhammer et. al. but does build a lot of "machines" (mainly Sci-Fi but I do have a couple of WW2 tanks in the stash) this one was particularly useful. It yet again carries the underlying message (as alluded to explicitly) that the level/quality of the end result is directly related to the amount of time/effort invested in the piece and that it is up to the individual to decide when the desired level has been reached or when enough time/effort has been committed. One technique demonstrated here does lead me on to a question about an issue I have been having. I have been building a Klingon K'tinga recently - it is an old model and not very good (bad fit, soft detail etc.) but I have been using it as a practice piece for a couple of newer and better models of the same subject I have in the stash. The problem that I have been having is that since the panel detail is so soft I wanted to boost it with panel lining. After sealing the model (and decals) with gloss varnish I attempted to do the panel edges with an oil wash. The issue here was that the wash would not "wet" and kept beading up into little drops without running along the panel edges. Next I tried Tamiya panel line paint but this just seemed to coffee-stain. Finally I tried a clay based weathering wash but since the panel details are so soft the wash rubbed clean off leaving nothing on the panel edges! Any ideas?
It's annoying when you have really soft detail like that. You can try mixing a little thinner oil wash, and applying with a syringe. If that doesn't work, you are in the uneviable position of tracing all of those lines with an ink or something similar.
Hi Vince, beautiful tank, great work, i plan on painting in my kratos as well and this got me very excited. I want to do it in sons of horus camo, I wonder - how to deal with the preshading and green. I plan on using sky green as the lightest color, or perhaps if not good coverage in the darker areas than mix of sky green and sons of horus green. Would the black - grey - white preshade work with the green, or extra steps for the shadow are necessary? Once more thanks for your great channel and all the tips and inspiration you share! Cheers - Jan
@@VinceVenturella understand, so you recommend still doing undershade, or just do the buildup, e.g. Lupercal green - SoH Green - Sky Green on white undercoat?
@@VinceVenturella I don't know if it is, that's why it would've been a great opportunity to test it! :) They're a lot more opaque than the old contrasts, so I don't know if all the effort you put into preshade would even show.
That looks fun and I always learn something new from you Vince. Question for maybe a future video, I am wondering about how you set up your table and chair height? Is it same for brush and airbrush? Any recommendations for posture and ergonomics? My eyes are getting old so I have to use one of those magnifiers and I find myself hunched over with my elbows on my legs. Thanks
Yep, I have a nice chair and an extra little bit thing to force good posture. I don’t move it, it’s always trying to keep everything at a 90 degree angle.
Incredible video. I’d be really interested to know your process for selecting highlight and shadow tones? Context for the question: I am putting together a leman Russ and while browsing the paint racks at my hobby store I got really inspired by an AK paint called ‘Pistachio’ which is a sickly green/yellow that I thought would be perfect for my Chem dogs.
Basically, whatever grabs me for the project, in this case I had colder highlights to balance the warmer shadows, but it’s just about the light you’re trying to portray.
AMAZING! You're helping rekindle my hobby mojo. Could I please request a video where you make the vehicle or armor black, but with that oily sheen to it? Wanting to do some Iron Hands with the black that still has some look of oil slick where you can see multiple colors at angles. Hope I'm explaining this well enough, let me know please if you're lost. ;). Keep up the great work, as always, super helpful!
@@VinceVenturella haha. Ok, fair. But does the concept make sense? Basically just looking for a unique black scheme for my Horus Heresy Iron Hands (not warriors). Thanks bud!!!
Fantastic, video and an intersting style for Armour, so different from the alternating panel high/low. If you were doing this in purple what colour undershading would you use? Thinking a dark yellow brown but worrying the green will impact the purple. Edit, for the chipping it's a little too random, it should be random in placement but use its intensity tell a story. On any item there is more damage where it's used, like chipping and dirt where the crew are putting their feet to climb in, where the side skirts scrape things (longer horizontal scratches) or the front rams through things.
Vince, very much liked that video. I will definitely apply some of these lessons on my vehicles. How do you feel though about not being able to paint that sweet black base rim at the end?
Awesome paint job, really enjoyed listening to the different techniques. One thing i see a a lot at the moment is these weathering effects on lightly painted vehicles. It gives a great opportunity to really push battle damage with oils and pigments, but what would your advice be if your base colors are a dark tone, such a dark green? Obviously you cant really push a dark brown/black oil streak down the face of the panel on a black or dark green base tone compared to a lighter base coat.
Two part question. How would you weather a red tank? Still micro scratches, would you still use the Rhinox Hide? What about an arid desert battlefield, rust wouldn’t form in an arid environment with no water to create oxidation. How would you change these techniques for that environment? Thanks
Well, rust is oxidation, often transmitted through water, but humidity in general can cause it, just much more rarely. With red vehicles, I would do the same lighter scratched and then choose the contrasting rust or damage based on dark or light red.
Hey Vince! Love the video and in-depth explanation, just had a question. If you were gonna paint a black scheme tank (say an adepta sororitas one), would you do it like the black thingies you did for this one? Cheers!
For the black, was the weathering only done in a grey, or did you also apply the same rhinox hide colour to create differenciation? Thanks and I really appreciated the tips on doing the tracks and the lighting, I always feel stuck on how to do those on vehicles.
Hey how would you paint high qualitiy black vehicles? Thanks to your vids I know how to paint black armor on miniatures (the oil paint method being my favorite) but what about black vehicles like falcons and wave serpents because I have to collect them eventually.
I generally avoid all black things, as they just don't have much visual interest. That being said, the same techniques you see here would be in play, we would just shift everything to black to mid-grey at the highest highlights and the zenithal would be quite gentle. It also helps if you shift that into some hue, so you're talking about something like a blue-grey ideally.
Great video Vince for any level of painter. You must be a glutton for punishment not using oils for pin lining though 🤣 For things like vehicles, do you use things like streaking grime or does is the effect to strong for say the competition level mini? Same for say sponge damage effects, which I've never been a fan of due to the lack of control
Bit of an odd question but do you have a video about properly loading up tiny brushes with paint. I'm pretty good at using a 1 but when doing fine lines with a 0 or smaller either I get too much and my fine line smudges or I have to go back to the pallette after every stroke.
Wonderful video. Thank you. I’ve noticed you using some very small spoons to measure your pigments with. What are they called and do you have a link for them? Would it be possible to get video or list of all your special metal recipes. I really enjoy how your metals look and I have many of the same supplies but can’t seem to get a similar result. Thank you for all the content and information you give us.
Hey Vince, Interesting to see how much you varnish. Any thoughts on a hobby cheating video on how to varnish through an airbrush? It's something I'm nervous to put through my airbrush, partly because I'm not sure on the cleaning process for varnish. Would save me time though as I currently brush on varnish.
Won't the pigment you put on last without fixating it just "dust off" eventually when you touch the model from time to time? At least the ones on the open surfaces.
Quick question regarding the masking putty. I initially bought something called "cra Z putty" (we don't have anything called silly putty in UK, at least I didn't find something called like that on Amazon). Works great for easy masking, but after removing it, I noticed that the surface was feeling greasy. I did a quick trial on a piece of sprue and as expecting when I airbrused some primer it beads immediately. So I went to my LGS and bought the Mig Ammo masking putty (similar black colour, I supposed it is the same stuff sold under different names by different brands). And same thing happen, primer beads as soon as it hits the surface, though it was less bad. And that despite it was written on tthe box that it leaves no residue. Do you observe the same thing? The good thing is that if I wash the parts that was masked with soapy water that greasy film, it return back to a wetable surface. But for me, and probably it's professionnal deformation, anything that is silicone based is a big no-no for all tasks like adhesive bonding and painting. Cling film and masking tapes might not be as convenient, but at least I know I won't have a surface unsuitable for painting after removal.
Interesting, I’ve never had that issue honestly. The camp putty and silly putty don’t leave anything for me, I am truly mystified as to what would cause that.
That's fucking rad mate, just picked up a Kratos to go with my reignited 30k Blood Angels project. I do the majority of my weathering with oils/enamels following the reductive technique, what sort of a colour would you use over red armour for a grimey finish, I'm thinking grey for a bit of a change, what do you think?
Sure, with red, it depends on whether you are bright or dark red. In either case, you can use a lighter version of that color dipping into slight orange for the light scratches and hashes. Then choose a bright or dark brown for some scratches. Something like a light grey can also be used in the scratches to show unpolished metal. You can also use deposited pigments as well in various areas.
Can I ask how you would handle heavier chips and scratches on black armor/vehicles? The dark brown really stands out on yellow, but feel like on black it may be too dark and get lost, leaving you only to see the highlight color painted along the edge. From the pics of the tank, it looks like you chose to leave just normal highlight color scratches. Is that best practice with black? Excellent vid, and thank you as always.
Yep, though yu can also do light brown beside them and in only some of them, it can show up as well, especially when closely viewed. So thr high highlights are the start (like light grey)
Brilliant video as usual great tips, question I picked up a pot of citadel dry for my dry brushing on edges, have you tried it or even in your collection?
Thanks for getting back and yep I hear that, I bought it by mistake I was looking for runefang steel. Used the dry once and that was all I needed to know .
Hi Vince. I see I'm a bit late to the show. One question though, after the final pigment brush on the sides, do you varnish or set the pigment in anyway or do you just leave it there?
When painting a vehicle for competition, do you have any suggestions on how to handle something like a Rhino, that has internal crew compartments that need to be painted before full assembly?
when it comes to pigment binding, do you have to by an actual pigment binder or is there another way to lock it in with not getting all runny and stuff?
Looks great Vince - as a former Tank and Armoured vehicle Commander and Driving/Servicing instructor there are some areas that you could improved. Scratches on the side of the tank are rarely vertices they are always almost horizontal with the ground. The front of the tank, will have vertical scratches from where it runs over things. Lastly the horizontal plates of the tank with exposed tracks like this will also be heavily dusted/stained in particular where the dust/mud will flick up the back of the tank and onto even the turret. If you really wanted to get realistic there are some tips for you. Thanks.
One of the other things that I have seen in the armor modeling community is to treat the entire weathering process as a step -- you apply scratches, then dirt, then rust, then you do it all again one or two more times, as the vehicle picks up additional scrapes and grime over time, rather than all at once -- so you will have some places where you have scratches on top of dirt previously accumulated on the vehicle, and grime on top of old scratches and rust, so it doesn't look as if all the weathering happened at once and then was done; vehicles don't get used that way. They get driven, and dirty, and scrape through brush and whatnot, and do it again and again until they get brought in for depot service and cleaned, so it's not going to be just one layer of each type of weathering.
That putty is the greatest thing I've ever seen LOL
Lovely Vince, I'm convinced you must never sleep though, every week you seem to drop a video for a model that had taken you 80+ hours!
Edge highlighting that thing sounds like punishment for somebody who killed mother and father
What I love about your tutorials is you explain what you're doing and why. I hate tutorials that don't take their time explaining their thoughts and choices. Especially in art tutorials. My brain likes rational explanations and when I am following a tutorial I'm watching someone go from a rough idea to a finished idea. I can't see the idea you're working towards in your head, unless I skip around the video a bunch, but that just makes things unnecessarily complicated. I just wanted to let you know it means a lot. I can only count a few artists like you that follow the same recipe.
Brilliant! I don't paint many tanks, but I think I could use a lot of that weathering advice on power armour too. As always, I really appreciate all the wisdom you push out to us here in the hobby.
The three Cs of Vince.
Credible
Consistent
Cool
My hero. Thx again for your advices
You are my inspiration Magister !!! ❤
Perfect Timing Again!!!! Thank you!
Great paint job!
Something I do to sell the environmental aspect of a dusty area is to put the pigment on the top surface of the vehicle and those deeper/ triangular recesses as well. If these are moving in formations or with other equipment, the dust will kick up (albeit finer and not as much) up on top. What was done here is more applicable to tanks driving through mud or not so dry dirt, vs dust/sand.
Still, that 100 hours of work is intense and it turned out really awesome! Almost kills me when I spend hours on prep and then bust out the AK streaking grime 😅.
I think this is a great example of how varied the quality levels are in different corners of the hobby. (Not just this) most golden demon winning vehicles wouldn't place at a scale model convention because techniques is typically pretty poor by comparison. Similarly scale modelers struggle to win a GD because the pallette is typically not right for the genre. Then there is the rare individuals who master both and use slayer swords as cutlery because they have so many.
It's very interesting watching different facets of miniature hobby painting, all the different techniques and paints tank people use compared to Napoleonic people compared to 40k ect. Also the bleeding of skills between them, like oil washes getting more screen time in the 40k world whereas it's old news in the tank world.
Free jazz, lol. Love it Vince.
Burnt Iron is one of my favorite paints, flows well out the container and is just perfect.
And if you look at actual pieces of tracked equipment the track pads will typically always be painted when new. They're steel, manufacturers don't want them rusted out by the time they are installed.
Great video! Tanks are cool! Imperial Fists are cool! Love this kind of stuff!
I’ve never had the urge to tackle a vehicle for some reason, except for dreadnaughts. Maybe time to have a go at one!
This is PERFECT! I recently finished building a Spartan for my Imperial Fist army.
Great Video Vince!
This and the colour exploration series might be one of the best videos you've made.
I know it's unnecessary work, but I often paint over decals, using them as a guide to paint the symbols. It's extra work, but they blend in well with the over all paintjob then. Great video, as always.
I really loved watching that go through every step to completion.
Going to try this on my Contemptor Dreadnaughts for NL.
Perfect timing, I’ve just put together 2 sisters of battle rhinos.
22:15 have tested a bunch of different option for sticking pigment to bases and mini's, with the goal of not altering the finish. Water works great, but has a very high surface tension, witch is not ideal if you want the liquid to spread on it's own. I tried 99% IPA, 50%, 20% and 10% and basically 50% has a nice low surface tension, but you get tidemarks from the IPA damaging the paint. Basically when you add iso to lower the surface tension sufficiently, it will start eating at your paintjob. I tried AK ultra matt varnish (high surface tension; doesn't alter the color of the pigment, but does make little clumps; really sturdy afterwards, so nice for gaming models), Vallejo airbrush thinner (low surface tension; damages paintjob; looks like cookie dough; not a great look); Vallejo airbrush flow improver (high surface tension; darkens the finish; damages the paintjob, but a little less than thinner); W&N Sansodor (low surface tension; ver slow drying time compared to the rest (did not expect that); doesn't alter the finish; slow drying time has the benefit that you can remove some of the pigment from the raised area's later; for a 25mm round base just add 1 drop, it will be enough and spread by its own). For now I will experiment more with the Sansodor (fancy name for white spirits).
I build mostly scale armor (actual military subjects) and I thought this video was great!
This looks awesome! Would love to see more vehicle-focused videos in the future, both painting and build-related
If you haven't checked out that "Dirty Down Rust" paint (which is lie $20 a bottle), you might want too. That stuff is AMAZING for rust effects. Goblin Hut and Artis Opus sells it. For the US, i'd go Goblin Hut.
Awesome to have all this techniques in one comprehensive video, thanks so much!
I've always been intimidated by large tanks and vehicles that have large flat surfaces so this has given me the encouragement I'll need to tackle a project I've had in my head for a while
Awesome video as always, Vince! Gotta say the outro music goes hard because I had this playing over the speakers at almost 11pm and the bass was enough to wake my wife haha. Worth the look of doom I received.
Probably the best tank painting tutorial I've seen, great job! I learned a lot!
As an armored vehicles model enthusiast, there are a few minor things I missed: Dust effect don't just collect around the bottom of the tank, but everywhere around it. A very simple approach to dust effect is chipping medium, then a thin airbrush filter of dust, then either stipple or streaking motion to reactivate the chipping medium and this creates very nice dust effect with rainmarks. Also, real debree can collect literally on top of the tank. Another few suggestions can be dirt splashes and earth texture around the bottom. Also, for competition and display purposes, doing real battle dammage such as bullet holes or damaged panels can be good, and on real life tanks, soldiers use to take their stuff around the tank, such as helmets, tools, boxes, etc.
Real pleasure to watch nevertheless Vince! Greetings from Spain
Excellence, Vince! Thank you 🙏
Great video... thank you!
Of course Vince is a Loyalist…
Thanks!! I think I asked for this video a month or two ago so I really appreciate you putting it out! I was painting a Xiphon Interceptor, and used colour modulation on the wings. The wings are just so flat and I really wanted to play with the light and dark elements!
Lovely work!
For treads etc, I've made myself a few bottles of various pigments and ISO. Give them a quick stir and a few seconds on the vortex mixer and you can just use it straight out of the bottle (as a solution the pigment settles very quickly). Its a very cheap & dirty way of getting the same effect as AK's various rust/dust/dirt washes without having to wick anything away with white spirit, plus the ISO helps it bond to the surface of whatever it is you're applying it to.
I think the main cannon could've used some extra attention. I think that is a melta cannon, so heat discoloration would look really good on it I think. Other than that fantastic job as always.
Personal opinion, but heat discoloration is way overdone and usually doesn't look great - because the painter always goes overboard. You know how about five years ago everybody was hating on OSL because everybody was doing it on everything? That's how I feel about heat discoloration.
Ok, "Now you get to watch a man go slowly insane" made me snort Coca-Cola into my nostrils.
Incredible!
A method that I use to flatten out my decals relatively quickly is to come in with a damp paper towel while my micro sol is drying and press down to push the air out. It's worked wonders for my shoulder pads, at least. :)
Technique is fine, as usual, but the weathering does not convince me particularly, because it is not distributed naturally across the vehicle:
1. Microscratches and paint chipping should be more dense where contact is made regularly: At the front of the vehicle, and around hatches where the crew is often moving on the vehicle - and not just on the edges there, but also in the flat surfaces.
2. Dust and dirt from driving around is prominent on the front of the vehicle (again), and at the back upwards from the drive wheels - the tracks are the most dirty when they leave the ground at the back of the tank and the upwards-forward movement of the tracks is constantly splashing up fresh dirt there.
These are my constructive two cents.
Amazing. I would also live to see how make black vehicles look intreresting.
Paint them a different color. ;) - no, it’s a good topic for a future video.
When I did my vindicator I applied my decals before the oil wash and that also took the stark white out of the Fists' chapter badge. Though I think that did dirty them up a bit too much.
Really useful video as always. I have a lot of yellow tanks I need to paint and this is exactly the look I'm trying to achieve.
What else I recommended this is only because I'm reading the latest book in The siege of terror if you want to try to do mud looking vallejo's range of mud European thick mud industrial mud that has an incredible look when it's finished and it's also cheaper than gw's basic material and you get more of it
Why didn't you do a melta burn on the end of the big barrel? Loved the video by the way!
I might still, I wanted it a little cleaner, but it could probably use it
This video will certainly come in handy for my Nurgle grot tank!
I hope one day you'll tackle something EC related. For a fan of purples and pink, there's quite a lack of III legion love! Maybe your marine video, but done for horus heresy legion?
Feels required to do some EC for sure.
great video, a few more things clicked for my next project and the wet pigment for the tracks looks awesome
i hardly like any videos, but i like this along with your other videos. I love that you dont act all whacky and make retarted jokes. I like how you explain all these great techniques. Really good stuff mate, keep it up
>Beautifully weathered paint job
>But pristine gun barrels
*insert Greta "How Dare You" meme here*
Looks awesome, the highlights are killer. I do have one question; how would you approach metallic vehicles? Like for Iron Warriors or Grey Knights? I really struggle resolving highlights in a convincing way
More or less the same thing, but through metals. If you watch my alpha legion video, you’ll see the progression.
I really like the look you achieved. Got me excited to paint my own!
Just found this channel. Thanks to NInjon and Miniac! I love how you teach and it makes your incredible work seem possible for someone like me. Greetings from Wooster, Ohio and Happy New Year!
REALLY helpful, thank you !
Always a great video.
Dorn lives! ✊
une fois encore BRAVO .... j aimerais savoir après avoir passé les derniers pigments vernisez-vous en mat ?? et a l'aérographe ? merci encore pour la vidéo.
Hi I’m new to painting minis and I find you videos invaluable to my painting journey. My question is, when you totally completed the tank, what do you use to seal the completed piece, varnish etc..
Nothing after the metals, no need, all the matte paint had been sealed from the previous varnish and the metal don’t need varnish.
Lovely, and near perfect timing as usual. I don't normally paint vehicles but yesterday I found the lost pieces of a partially put together Forgeworld Land Raider (I want to say Helios...) conversion kit I bought about 20 years ago :) So might have to give a kick ass tank a go.
16:20 -- If you're going to go for maximum realism, you want to repeat the weathering sequence as many times as you feel you need to get the effect you want -- first the base vehicle, then damage to the paint from operation, then environmental grunge, then you do the damage again, then more grunge, and back around if you want. The vehicle won't be taken out and getting beaten up, then dragged through the dirt, and that's the end of it -- being beaten up and dirtied is an ongoing process, putting multiple layers of wear on the vehicle -- so you can have scratches and wear cutting through older dried mud, or crew climbing on the vehicle wearing off accumulated dust, and possibly a fresh mud spatter over the bootprints in the dust, depending on the environment the vehicle is operating in and how long it's been since the vehicle has been given depot service. Each weathering loop shouldn't be as heavy as doing it all in one go, because it's an ongoing process, accumulating damage and grunge over time.
Another detail is replacement parts. It's not as easy to do with 40K vehicles, because the components are more integral, but you can see US combat vehicles that have had reactive armor panels replaced, and the replacement is a different color because that's what was available, or a different shade because it's new and unworn. To use the Kratos as an example, you have the side guns left off for most of the video, but one could have a different color scheme, or a bright, clean, unworn one, because the vehicle had been damaged in a previous action and the side cannon module was replaced (or even a more heavily-worn one, beaten up and missing most of its paint because it was scavenged from a knocked-out vehicle too badly damaged to repair).
Where do you draw the line when it comes to muds, dirt, etc etc for realistic vs reasonable workload? Also, outside of wear and tear damage, how would you go about modeling actual battle-damage?
Im struggling with getting started on my Tau vehicles as I dont know how I’ll go about the “look like active deployment” state.
I’ve spent a lot of time watching the Night Shift channel, but man the absolutely sense of impeccable detail he does feels both intimidating, paralyzing, and inspiring.
I have several videos on battle damage in the playlist, but the answer is - there is no one right answer for what is realistic. There are guidelines - such as weather more where there would be contact with other objects, toward the legs of walkers or the front of tanks - but in the end, you can decide where and how far you want to go - I would experiement around and see what level of weathering suits your project.
Here is another video on it - ruclips.net/video/1mhVUKELXuo/видео.html
Martin is amazing. Trying to match his level is difficult, but try techniques in the hard to see areas first. That way, if you aren't satisfied, it isn't visible. Just think of it as practice
Hi Vince. Great video and resource. I wanted to ask about the pigment step at the end. Do you need to do anything to “lock” the pigment in? I’m looking to experiment with pigments, but not sure if you need to wet it with some sort of medium afterwards for it to stay in place. Thanks.
Nope, just worked it in well, no other steps
Hi Vince. A very interesting video. As someone who does not play Warhammer et. al. but does build a lot of "machines" (mainly Sci-Fi but I do have a couple of WW2 tanks in the stash) this one was particularly useful. It yet again carries the underlying message (as alluded to explicitly) that the level/quality of the end result is directly related to the amount of time/effort invested in the piece and that it is up to the individual to decide when the desired level has been reached or when enough time/effort has been committed. One technique demonstrated here does lead me on to a question about an issue I have been having. I have been building a Klingon K'tinga recently - it is an old model and not very good (bad fit, soft detail etc.) but I have been using it as a practice piece for a couple of newer and better models of the same subject I have in the stash. The problem that I have been having is that since the panel detail is so soft I wanted to boost it with panel lining. After sealing the model (and decals) with gloss varnish I attempted to do the panel edges with an oil wash. The issue here was that the wash would not "wet" and kept beading up into little drops without running along the panel edges. Next I tried Tamiya panel line paint but this just seemed to coffee-stain. Finally I tried a clay based weathering wash but since the panel details are so soft the wash rubbed clean off leaving nothing on the panel edges! Any ideas?
It's annoying when you have really soft detail like that. You can try mixing a little thinner oil wash, and applying with a syringe. If that doesn't work, you are in the uneviable position of tracing all of those lines with an ink or something similar.
Love this tank bro. Definalty going to try and replicate this. Thanks for the inspiration!!!
No problem 👍
Hi Vince, beautiful tank, great work, i plan on painting in my kratos as well and this got me very excited.
I want to do it in sons of horus camo, I wonder - how to deal with the preshading and green.
I plan on using sky green as the lightest color, or perhaps if not good coverage in the darker areas than mix of sky green and sons of horus green. Would the black - grey - white preshade work with the green, or extra steps for the shadow are necessary?
Once more thanks for your great channel and all the tips and inspiration you share! Cheers - Jan
I’d just build it up with those colors directly, like you see here, but less concern for undershading
@@VinceVenturella understand, so you recommend still doing undershade, or just do the buildup, e.g. Lupercal green - SoH Green - Sky Green on white undercoat?
Would've been a perfect opportunity to test Citadel's new single pigment yellow contrasts both via airbrush and applied with a brush.
Another great option for sure.
@@VinceVenturella I don't know if it is, that's why it would've been a great opportunity to test it! :)
They're a lot more opaque than the old contrasts, so I don't know if all the effort you put into preshade would even show.
Amazing video as always, so many things to learn here.
Very nicely done! Did yo varnish a final time after applying the pigments?
Nope, no varnish. :)
This is really great work
Nice video! What type of miniature holder are you using to hold the tank?
Just a wooden dowel with it attached.
That looks fun and I always learn something new from you Vince. Question for maybe a future video, I am wondering about how you set up your table and chair height? Is it same for brush and airbrush? Any recommendations for posture and ergonomics? My eyes are getting old so I have to use one of those magnifiers and I find myself hunched over with my elbows on my legs. Thanks
Yep, I have a nice chair and an extra little bit thing to force good posture. I don’t move it, it’s always trying to keep everything at a 90 degree angle.
I've had some difficulties with airbrushing paint as thin as you've mentioned, what air pressure do you usually use?
18-20 PSI - I have several videos about how to improve trigger control, that’s really the secret
@@VinceVenturella thanks, I've had mine at 25-30, so no wonder I've had spiderwebbing when trying to glaze
Loved this Vince! Did you bind the pigment on the bottom of the tank at all? Or is it on there loosey goosey?
No fixing. Just worked it in.
@@VinceVenturella ah ok. That’s what I’ve been doing for my Gargants. Was wondering if you had *~*secret*~* tech.
Incredible video. I’d be really interested to know your process for selecting highlight and shadow tones?
Context for the question: I am putting together a leman Russ and while browsing the paint racks at my hobby store I got really inspired by an AK paint called ‘Pistachio’ which is a sickly green/yellow that I thought would be perfect for my Chem dogs.
Basically, whatever grabs me for the project, in this case I had colder highlights to balance the warmer shadows, but it’s just about the light you’re trying to portray.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for your reply!
AMAZING! You're helping rekindle my hobby mojo. Could I please request a video where you make the vehicle or armor black, but with that oily sheen to it? Wanting to do some Iron Hands with the black that still has some look of oil slick where you can see multiple colors at angles. Hope I'm explaining this well enough, let me know please if you're lost. ;). Keep up the great work, as always, super helpful!
Oily sheen is one of the 5 things I tell people to never paint. ;)
@@VinceVenturella haha. Ok, fair. But does the concept make sense? Basically just looking for a unique black scheme for my Horus Heresy Iron Hands (not warriors). Thanks bud!!!
I definitely read the thumbnail incorrectly and was confused what IF have to do with pr0n...
Fantastic, video and an intersting style for Armour, so different from the alternating panel high/low. If you were doing this in purple what colour undershading would you use? Thinking a dark yellow brown but worrying the green will impact the purple. Edit, for the chipping it's a little too random, it should be random in placement but use its intensity tell a story. On any item there is more damage where it's used, like chipping and dirt where the crew are putting their feet to climb in, where the side skirts scrape things (longer horizontal scratches) or the front rams through things.
I'd have done the decals, gloss coat and then oil panel lining as the gloss makes it so much easier.
For purple just normal black to white works fine. :)
Vince, very much liked that video. I will definitely apply some of these lessons on my vehicles.
How do you feel though about not being able to paint that sweet black base rim at the end?
It hurts, that’s for sure
Awesome paint job, really enjoyed listening to the different techniques. One thing i see a a lot at the moment is these weathering effects on lightly painted vehicles. It gives a great opportunity to really push battle damage with oils and pigments, but what would your advice be if your base colors are a dark tone, such a dark green? Obviously you cant really push a dark brown/black oil streak down the face of the panel on a black or dark green base tone compared to a lighter base coat.
Lighter rusts, winter streaking, basically those items that would contrast with the darker colors
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Silly first me
Two part question.
How would you weather a red tank? Still micro scratches, would you still use the Rhinox Hide?
What about an arid desert battlefield, rust wouldn’t form in an arid environment with no water to create oxidation. How would you change these techniques for that environment?
Thanks
Well, rust is oxidation, often transmitted through water, but humidity in general can cause it, just much more rarely. With red vehicles, I would do the same lighter scratched and then choose the contrasting rust or damage based on dark or light red.
Great video! You keep varnishing the model through out the painting process: what sort of varnish do you use in this case? Tx!
I use a mix of 3:1 ultra matte to satin varnish, with just a few drops of thinner.
Hey Vince! Love the video and in-depth explanation, just had a question. If you were gonna paint a black scheme tank (say an adepta sororitas one), would you do it like the black thingies you did for this one? Cheers!
Yep, I never paint black vehicles (as they are boring in paint form ;) ) - but yes, that exact process.
For the black, was the weathering only done in a grey, or did you also apply the same rhinox hide colour to create differenciation? Thanks and I really appreciated the tips on doing the tracks and the lighting, I always feel stuck on how to do those on vehicles.
Still used the Rhinox hide on the black/grey as well.
Hey how would you paint high qualitiy black vehicles? Thanks to your vids I know how to paint black armor on miniatures (the oil paint method being my favorite) but what about black vehicles like falcons and wave serpents because I have to collect them eventually.
I generally avoid all black things, as they just don't have much visual interest. That being said, the same techniques you see here would be in play, we would just shift everything to black to mid-grey at the highest highlights and the zenithal would be quite gentle. It also helps if you shift that into some hue, so you're talking about something like a blue-grey ideally.
@@VinceVenturella thanks! Although they won't be all black. My army's main colors are black accented with orange and blue gems.
Great video Vince for any level of painter. You must be a glutton for punishment not using oils for pin lining though 🤣
For things like vehicles, do you use things like streaking grime or does is the effect to strong for say the competition level mini?
Same for say sponge damage effects, which I've never been a fan of due to the lack of control
I like it, I just wanted really precise control with this.
Bit of an odd question but do you have a video about properly loading up tiny brushes with paint. I'm pretty good at using a 1 but when doing fine lines with a 0 or smaller either I get too much and my fine line smudges or I have to go back to the pallette after every stroke.
I have a video on brush control in the playlist, that might he’ll you out. But I’ll see what I can do.
Wonderful video. Thank you. I’ve noticed you using some very small spoons to measure your pigments with. What are they called and do you have a link for them? Would it be possible to get video or list of all your special metal recipes. I really enjoy how your metals look and I have many of the same supplies but can’t seem to get a similar result. Thank you for all the content and information you give us.
They were a tiny set of measuring spoons for your kitchen I found on Amazon. I’ll see what I can do for a while video on metal recipes
Hey Vince, Interesting to see how much you varnish. Any thoughts on a hobby cheating video on how to varnish through an airbrush? It's something I'm nervous to put through my airbrush, partly because I'm not sure on the cleaning process for varnish. Would save me time though as I currently brush on varnish.
Yep, I have one planned for sure
Won't the pigment you put on last without fixating it just "dust off" eventually when you touch the model from time to time? At least the ones on the open surfaces.
Not really, when you work it into a matte surface like this, it's on there.
Quick question regarding the masking putty.
I initially bought something called "cra Z putty" (we don't have anything called silly putty in UK, at least I didn't find something called like that on Amazon). Works great for easy masking, but after removing it, I noticed that the surface was feeling greasy.
I did a quick trial on a piece of sprue and as expecting when I airbrused some primer it beads immediately. So I went to my LGS and bought the Mig Ammo masking putty (similar black colour, I supposed it is the same stuff sold under different names by different brands). And same thing happen, primer beads as soon as it hits the surface, though it was less bad. And that despite it was written on tthe box that it leaves no residue.
Do you observe the same thing?
The good thing is that if I wash the parts that was masked with soapy water that greasy film, it return back to a wetable surface.
But for me, and probably it's professionnal deformation, anything that is silicone based is a big no-no for all tasks like adhesive bonding and painting.
Cling film and masking tapes might not be as convenient, but at least I know I won't have a surface unsuitable for painting after removal.
Interesting, I’ve never had that issue honestly. The camp putty and silly putty don’t leave anything for me, I am truly mystified as to what would cause that.
I disagree that the weathering steps are optional, but that may be because my main army is Orks. The painting process is "Oops, All Weathering!"
That's fucking rad mate, just picked up a Kratos to go with my reignited 30k Blood Angels project.
I do the majority of my weathering with oils/enamels following the reductive technique, what sort of a colour would you use over red armour for a grimey finish, I'm thinking grey for a bit of a change, what do you think?
Sure, with red, it depends on whether you are bright or dark red. In either case, you can use a lighter version of that color dipping into slight orange for the light scratches and hashes. Then choose a bright or dark brown for some scratches. Something like a light grey can also be used in the scratches to show unpolished metal. You can also use deposited pigments as well in various areas.
@@VinceVenturella thanks so much for the reply, apologies for the delay in getting back to you, just about to actually start working on my Kratos.
Excellent vid and inspiration for projects.
Have you fix the pigments in any means ?
Nope, after they’re worked in that hard, they don’t come off
Can I ask how you would handle heavier chips and scratches on black armor/vehicles? The dark brown really stands out on yellow, but feel like on black it may be too dark and get lost, leaving you only to see the highlight color painted along the edge. From the pics of the tank, it looks like you chose to leave just normal highlight color scratches. Is that best practice with black? Excellent vid, and thank you as always.
Yep, though yu can also do light brown beside them and in only some of them, it can show up as well, especially when closely viewed. So thr high highlights are the start (like light grey)
Brilliant video as usual great tips, question I picked up a pot of citadel dry for my dry brushing on edges, have you tried it or even in your collection?
Yes, sadly, it’s not very good. You’re better off with normal paints for your drybrushing sadly, you have more control.
Thanks for getting back and yep I hear that, I bought it by mistake I was looking for runefang steel. Used the dry once and that was all I needed to know .
AK Cammo putty is amazing. get 3 tins!
Hi Vince. I see I'm a bit late to the show. One question though, after the final pigment brush on the sides, do you varnish or set the pigment in anyway or do you just leave it there?
Just leave it there.
When painting a vehicle for competition, do you have any suggestions on how to handle something like a Rhino, that has internal crew compartments that need to be painted before full assembly?
Don’t paint them and seal the vehicle. Or paint them fully first, then mask off the whole area and continue
when it comes to pigment binding, do you have to by an actual pigment binder or is there another way to lock it in with not getting all runny and stuff?
I don’t bind the pigment at the bottom, I work it in strongly and generally don’t have to worry about it. But an airbrush varnish will lock it in too.