That is next levelling modelling... First step, clean all the mold lines of the model and make it look nice and clean The rest of the video: Destroy the surface, add a new mold line and just generally make it look awesome!
I cannot say enough how much I appreciate that you respect the IP of others. Most people wouldn't have even thought to question whether it was theirs to share. kudos
@@NightShiftScaleModels this is true mate, well said :) I must say too, your channel got me back into models after many, many years of not doing them. Forgot how much I missed this hobby ...thank you for such awesome content with such a fun, friendly delivery!
Another Sherman! That's the third one today 😅 BIG EDIT: to make the foundry markings, if you don't have the archer resin decals, you can also carefully slice part numbers and letters off the sprue and glue them onto the model. I've done that and it works pretty well ☺
@@NightShiftScaleModels nah, I just put up the Sherman video this week since I didn't have a tutorial done from the Pz III. I don't think I'll go back to the Sherman for a number of weeks...
There's something really funny about the first step being to remove any seam lines and imperfections in the mold, only to add on other seam lines and other imperfections in the mold. Excellent video!
Uncle Night Shift doing a 1/48th scale kit? Be still my beating heart. As I only work in this scale I'm super excited to see the magic applied to my favourite scale. So excited I joined up on Patreon. It was the least I could do to give back after all the fun I've been having watching, learning and shamelessly stealing ideas from your videos. I mean, come on, much less than a magazine a month and those big still photos are amazing. Thanks for sharing so much good cheer and bringing fun back to modelling.
Dude, I do not do modelling since a while, mostly due to the lack of time, but I WISH your channel was around when I did. It is easily THE BEST modelling channel out there! Keep keeping on!
I'm building this exact kit at the moment. I'd already started but messed it up beyond repair, so recently bought another. I've been watching all your videos for ideas so seeing you start an easy eight has me super excited. I also ordered some aftermarket resin parts to make mine a recreation of the tank in "Fury". The first build I'm going to strip the paint off and turn it into a completely abandoned destroyed tank afterwards.
When large pieces of metal are cast they often crack as the metal cools, especially if it is cooled too quickly. It’s very common to see these cracks welded up.
I have seen something like that on Soviet turrets. Sanded welds that look like veins, sometimes squares. Could this be it? Maybe the welded squares are leftover sprues?
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm not sure on Soviet casting but I have seen examples of their engineering in the past and it's pretty rough, but functional. After the collapse of the Soviet Union I did have quite a lot of experience with Russian equipment from former states such as East Germany, Yugoslavia etc. Mainly ZIL 157, BMP, BTR, BDRM, ZSU Shika but sadly no MBTs. Cracks would be vein like and filled with stainless steel weld as this doesn't crack when cooling, also it won't rust over time and will be quite bright as I've seen you do in the past so that's accurate. The squares would more than likely be sprues that have been cut off and ground back, TBH these could be any shape as it all depends on how they were cast and how the sprue is formed by the factory. There may also be serial numbers cast into each part, but it was also welded using stick welding. I know some Soviet era serial numbers were also stamped on so the whole area is a bit of a minefield and probably dependant upon country and factory of manufacture. I grew up near the royal ordnance factory at Barnbow in Leeds so tank manufacture was quite a common subject as I was growing up. It was often said that Chieftain hulls had to be repaired by welding once cast due to the sheer size of it and the thermal stresses placed on it when cooling.
Very interesting vid. You create great content and make it easy to watch! I was a modeler when I was a kid, but nothing since the mid-1960s. Your patience is incredible
Excellent instruction on this turret texturing, just finished a M48A3 turret, got to say following your guide, I am very surprised how good it looks. Thanks mate, your a legend!!
Hi mate. These iron-parts were made in sand-casts. The patterns come from marks left on the mock-up from wax, when they are embedded in sand or when the iron is poured into the cast. You gave a great impression, its always a great inspiration to watch you. Tank you! (ps: You're an adult, but there are many young boys among your fans (such as my son). Please use gloves when modelling fresh epoxy! Its bad for your balls, especially when youre young. Bisphenol-A, you know?)
I think that I suggested a long time ago that you do a video on how to make a otherwise boring OD American tank interesting. Booyah!! Can't wait for what's instore. You are the best
It isn't a welding it's a seamline (the point In the mold there 2 pars of the mold connect needed for more complex shapes) But the technic is almost the same
My theory of why WWII Soviet Tanks forging and welding lines are more prominent and crude looking was because they really had to rush out a working tank and get it operational while U.S Tanks were obviously made far away from theatre of war. I saw a documentary where Soviet Tanks were leaving the factory, getting a crew and straight into battle!
Incredible...such simple techniques that all modelers can do, no matter your skill level. The results from such simple techniques will def help me out! Thank you Uncle Night Shift! PS, I miss the bloopers...
Its also possible those machining spots on the back of the turret is a balancing correction. Most of the Sherman tanks had a early stabilizer machinism.
Thank you so much for all the detail and time you put into teaching all of these amazing techniques. It brings a whole new level of detail to my Grimdark style Warhammer miniatures. Thank you.
I’m making a tamiya panther tank and I used the original armor texture tutorial from a while ago and it looked great it is my first time doing it and I’m using the bulet hole technique you made tooin another video
Dear Mr Nightshift Having seen a few of the tanks up close when being restored and stripped back to bare metal for repairing, priming and painting casting on American tanks is not very rough, even the welds and cut offs are generally very smooth. More often it is layers of paint slapped on by any means how or repairs or on old tanks just weathering
Awesome man, I love this technique! I built a 1/35 scale walking soviet vehicle from Paolo Parente's Dust series a few years back and I wish I had spent some time with this sort of technique.. maybe I should build another! Would be awesome to see you build something from a fictional range such as this too!
I literally just started the rough work on a Tamiya M4A3 last week and was hoping you'd address an American tank. The kit needed some kit bashing as it was very poor quality and needs some tlc and a lot of washes to hide the imperfections. I was curious about the seam evident on the turret when examining the model. I've only built German armor up to this point. Thank you Uncle Night Shift!
Great technical video, as always. The late war HVSS Shermans are the dream subject for those of us who like their models covered in tarps, bags and various personal equipment, caked in mud and splatters, so I'm really curious to see what you're going to come up with. Especially as I've got an M4A3 105 on my work bench, and need some inspiration for the paint job.
Great, informative, and entertaining as always! I really like the idea of using the 3d decals. I assume you still had to lay down a clear coat before using the decal solutions?
Great job! Martin, well you have me committed now and because of your excellent videos, I just purchased a German Panther G (Tamiya). Now looking for upgrade parts in photo etching and resin plus figures. Bought a Camouflage stencil as I know my camo skills will suck. At this moment trying to determine in Western or Eastern front.... looking forward to getting this built and on a diorama.
Oh my God. Another great model maker form Czech republic 🇨🇿. How we say? Czech golds hand's... It's true. Liked and Subscribed. Greetings from OSTRAVA.
Hi, it's nice work as usual. I'm using Lacquer thinner to melt surface before putting putty. But I think your way is more safety. I'm going to to soon. Thank you !!!
Hello Martin another great help video ! 100% magic tips for my models ! Many thanks !! I wait if possible other vidéos on 1/72 scale your T90 it's a masterpiece !! Greetings from France ;)
Dude, I love your videos. They're so informative and fun. Do you suppose you might ever venture into other subject matters, such as airplanes, cars, ships, or scifi? If tanks are where you want to stay, I understand, I was just curious to see your take on another subject.
I've been looking but no one has a video on how the paints are used. Like... what goes on first then on top of that then on top of that? Acrylics... lacquers... enamels? and why? what are they thinned with and the benefits of one over the other. What type of paint can go on top of another type or should you not do that. I know you talk about it in some of your videos but is there a detailed painting video you have or know of another? Which kind is used for panel lining and which are used for top coat to chip off or which should not be used. Also what type of clear goes between coats and how many coats of clear go on... one coat of clear between each layer or only on top of the base paint and one on top of the decals? I look at a lot of modeling videos but I like how you cover the info the best. Is there any way you can make a video on paints and their applications for dummies?
Are you and Panzermeister36 having more psychic communications? Anyway, great vid with what seems to be an easy but worthwhile technique. Great vid thanks for sharing.
That is next levelling modelling...
First step, clean all the mold lines of the model and make it look nice and clean
The rest of the video: Destroy the surface, add a new mold line and just generally make it look awesome!
The way he speaks about Soviet tanks, I'm convinced the IS-2 tutorial will be just lobbing the piece against a wall
just tie it to the back of a car/bike and drag it for about a mile on the road you’re good to go!!
Ha ha ha
just give it a light makeover with a hammer. and maybe a sickle for good measure
@@NightShiftScaleModels Dude, I have a question where did you buy these 3D decals for Sherman tanks?
InstaBlaster.
Building a Sherman right now. Very helpful, thank you.
Building a patton tank currently
I'm building a Sherman as well
I cannot say enough how much I appreciate that you respect the IP of others. Most people wouldn't have even thought to question whether it was theirs to share. kudos
Yay, a new video! With how crappy the world feels right now, this is honestly one of the things I look forward to most each week...thanks mate!
look on the bright side, at least there's more time for modelling. and it'll all get better soon!
@@NightShiftScaleModels this is true mate, well said :) I must say too, your channel got me back into models after many, many years of not doing them. Forgot how much I missed this hobby ...thank you for such awesome content with such a fun, friendly delivery!
Another Sherman! That's the third one today 😅
BIG EDIT: to make the foundry markings, if you don't have the archer resin decals, you can also carefully slice part numbers and letters off the sprue and glue them onto the model. I've done that and it works pretty well ☺
Panzermeister36 - bet you want a StuG 😉
@@dotdashdotdash always!
Me when I saw that we're again gonna build the same tank: Ah shiet, here we go again 😆
@@NightShiftScaleModels nah, I just put up the Sherman video this week since I didn't have a tutorial done from the Pz III. I don't think I'll go back to the Sherman for a number of weeks...
Sherman! 😆
There's something really funny about the first step being to remove any seam lines and imperfections in the mold, only to add on other seam lines and other imperfections in the mold. Excellent video!
big brain move
I have never built a model tank before in my life, but seeing all your tricks for detailing is beyond satisfying.
I was never handy in fine work, but people who have patience and can create miracles to great looking texture and model, are astonishing me!
Thank you for your tutorials plasmo! My favorite part of modeling is adding my own touches and your tutorials have helped greatly
I wish i knew Prime Portal existed for my every armour model i have made ever! Dude, you have saved me tonnes of research time!
Uncle Night Shift doing a 1/48th scale kit? Be still my beating heart. As I only work in this scale I'm super excited to see the magic applied to my favourite scale. So excited I joined up on Patreon. It was the least I could do to give back after all the fun I've been having watching, learning and shamelessly stealing ideas from your videos. I mean, come on, much less than a magazine a month and those big still photos are amazing. Thanks for sharing so much good cheer and bringing fun back to modelling.
Dude, I do not do modelling since a while, mostly due to the lack of time, but I WISH your channel was around when I did. It is easily THE BEST modelling channel out there! Keep keeping on!
Another exceptional video. I just asked Uncle Nightshift for tips on this process and BAM he delivers.
A cool and useful way of adding texture, Martin. There's so much more to cast features than just texturing the plastic. Nice!
Must feel good to build a quality kit from tamiya
totally!
@@NightShiftScaleModels what, no love for the Revell kits for toddlers? 😂
there are even better ones nowadays. tamiya hasn't even clear parts. that's so 90s
My local shop doesn't import Tamiya, so the only thing I can do is watch uncle Nightshift :(
@@jkoeberli what would be better than tamiya?
I'm building this exact kit at the moment. I'd already started but messed it up beyond repair, so recently bought another. I've been watching all your videos for ideas so seeing you start an easy eight has me super excited.
I also ordered some aftermarket resin parts to make mine a recreation of the tank in "Fury".
The first build I'm going to strip the paint off and turn it into a completely abandoned destroyed tank afterwards.
When you talk about reference images, can you post the link in the description?
good point!
Yes, good idea. 👍
it's right there on primeportal :) www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry_kiyatkin/m4a3e8/index.php?Page=1Easy%20Eight
Still one of the best modelling Videos on RUclips. Great work!
Hands down best on RUclips!
When large pieces of metal are cast they often crack as the metal cools, especially if it is cooled too quickly. It’s very common to see these cracks welded up.
I have seen something like that on Soviet turrets. Sanded welds that look like veins, sometimes squares. Could this be it? Maybe the welded squares are leftover sprues?
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm not sure on Soviet casting but I have seen examples of their engineering in the past and it's pretty rough, but functional. After the collapse of the Soviet Union I did have quite a lot of experience with Russian equipment from former states such as East Germany, Yugoslavia etc. Mainly ZIL 157, BMP, BTR, BDRM, ZSU Shika but sadly no MBTs.
Cracks would be vein like and filled with stainless steel weld as this doesn't crack when cooling, also it won't rust over time and will be quite bright as I've seen you do in the past so that's accurate.
The squares would more than likely be sprues that have been cut off and ground back, TBH these could be any shape as it all depends on how they were cast and how the sprue is formed by the factory.
There may also be serial numbers cast into each part, but it was also welded using stick welding. I know some Soviet era serial numbers were also stamped on so the whole area is a bit of a minefield and probably dependant upon country and factory of manufacture.
I grew up near the royal ordnance factory at Barnbow in Leeds so tank manufacture was quite a common subject as I was growing up. It was often said that Chieftain hulls had to be repaired by welding once cast due to the sheer size of it and the thermal stresses placed on it when cooling.
Very interesting vid. You create great content and make it easy to watch! I was a modeler when I was a kid, but nothing since the mid-1960s. Your patience is incredible
These videos are a masterclass
I think I’m going to start building models because of your videos!
Excellent instruction on this turret texturing, just finished a M48A3 turret, got to say following your guide, I am very surprised how good it looks. Thanks mate, your a legend!!
wow, those raised decals are rad. gonna buy some of those as soon as i can, great tip
Ooo this is my first ever tank that I made
I would really recommend this one it is such a good model
Hi mate.
These iron-parts were made in sand-casts. The patterns come from marks left on the mock-up from wax, when they are embedded in sand or when the iron is poured into the cast.
You gave a great impression, its always a great inspiration to watch you.
Tank you!
(ps: You're an adult, but there are many young boys among your fans (such as my son). Please use gloves when modelling fresh epoxy! Its bad for your balls, especially when youre young. Bisphenol-A, you know?)
I think that I suggested a long time ago that you do a video on how to make a otherwise boring OD American tank interesting. Booyah!! Can't wait for what's instore. You are the best
MARTIN!!! Looks really nice, I love it!
You are a fantastically awesome teacher!
Great technique. That weld faded into the cast. Looks very authentic.
It isn't a welding it's a seamline (the point In the mold there 2 pars of the mold connect needed for more complex shapes)
But the technic is almost the same
@@TheLtVoss You have no clue about what I was referring to, do you?
My theory of why WWII Soviet Tanks forging and welding lines are more prominent and crude looking was because they really had to rush out a working tank and get it operational while U.S Tanks were obviously made far away from theatre of war. I saw a documentary where Soviet Tanks were leaving the factory, getting a crew and straight into battle!
Incredible...such simple techniques that all modelers can do, no matter your skill level. The results from such simple techniques will def help me out! Thank you Uncle Night Shift! PS, I miss the bloopers...
Its also possible those machining spots on the back of the turret is a balancing correction. Most of the Sherman tanks had a early stabilizer machinism.
Just started a 1/35 rc Sherman , I'm definitely going to use this technique! Great video!
wow primeportal is great! And here I was looking at random low quality pictures from google images. Thank you!
Fresh ideas and well done!!!
Good review of great tips!!
I loved this video I’m a new modeler and this really helps thank you so much!
Hey nightshift you are the bob ross of armor modelling!
Thank you so much for all the detail and time you put into teaching all of these amazing techniques. It brings a whole new level of detail to my Grimdark style Warhammer miniatures. Thank you.
Wow! Excellent work!
LOVE IT !! I will be doing this on some 40K Tanks for my chaos Army
Really learnt something new; and i have been modelling on and off for 40+ years...I'll have to refine my "upgrade castings" method now....:-)
Fantastic as always.
Gelatinous! Love it!
Really enjoy your tutorials.
Thank you
I’m making a tamiya panther tank and I used the original armor texture tutorial from a while ago and it looked great it is my first time doing it and I’m using the bulet hole technique you made tooin another video
These videos make my week ! It's like waiting for the next episode of your favourite TV Binge , thanks Uncle Nightshift 👊
I love this simple trick
Absolutely great stuff, I swear nothing inspires and relaxes me like your videos...
it just looks so good!!
awesome talent, thank you for the lesson, beautiful cast look
😍 very nice! Thank you for the great videos!
Really cool it helped me alot
Thank you for Prime Portal!!! Been looking for site like this to help with my military RC builds!
Oh, I'd be really interested in that Soviet texture! Cool stuff!
Dear Mr Nightshift
Having seen a few of the tanks up close when being restored and stripped back to bare metal for repairing, priming and painting casting on American tanks is not very rough, even the welds and cut offs are generally very smooth. More often it is layers of paint slapped on by any means how or repairs or on old tanks just weathering
Excellent tutorial!
Awesome man, I love this technique! I built a 1/35 scale walking soviet vehicle from Paolo Parente's Dust series a few years back and I wish I had spent some time with this sort of technique.. maybe I should build another! Would be awesome to see you build something from a fictional range such as this too!
Thank you so much! I have been wanting to know how to do this exact thing for so long. :D
Your work and videos are amazing. This is really helpful.
Thank you , Uncle Martin .
Thank you ! Very helpful video.
thank you for the link to the archive of military vehichle pictures uncle night shift ive been looking for something like this
*You such a perfectionist that sometimes my brain stops to follow ... i have to watch again and take a lot of notes for my future builds. Thanks! 😉*
Love your description of Soviet casting quality... It does have a very 'ploughed turnip field' quality about it, on IS-2 tanks at least.
Been inspired to get back into hobby after discovering your videos Night Shift! Ordered a Sherman and am going to do it up for my dad 😊
Three years on, I hope you finished it and that he liked it ❤
Looks good. Thanks for sharing
Looks great!!
I literally just started the rough work on a Tamiya M4A3 last week and was hoping you'd address an American tank. The kit needed some kit bashing as it was very poor quality and needs some tlc and a lot of washes to hide the imperfections. I was curious about the seam evident on the turret when examining the model. I've only built German armor up to this point. Thank you Uncle Night Shift!
This is a T23 turret. They were put on M4A3 (76)W HVVS medium tanks (what some mistakenly call a M4A3E8).
my man martin i love you
alot
Another great video
Dammit!! This video came just in time!!! I am building 2 Super Shermans and they need some casting !
Wonderful.
love your videos there very helpful
Great work !🏆
Great technical video, as always. The late war HVSS Shermans are the dream subject for those of us who like their models covered in tarps, bags and various personal equipment, caked in mud and splatters, so I'm really curious to see what you're going to come up with. Especially as I've got an M4A3 105 on my work bench, and need some inspiration for the paint job.
Excellent
Thank you
Great, informative, and entertaining as always! I really like the idea of using the 3d decals. I assume you still had to lay down a clear coat before using the decal solutions?
Great job! Martin, well you have me committed now and because of your excellent videos, I just purchased a German Panther G (Tamiya). Now looking for upgrade parts in photo etching and resin plus figures. Bought a Camouflage stencil as I know my camo skills will suck. At this moment trying to determine in Western or Eastern front.... looking forward to getting this built and on a diorama.
This looks nice
Perfect done. Now, I need to "translate" it for 1/72 scale. ;) Thanks for video and advices! ;)
Oh my God. Another great model maker form Czech republic 🇨🇿. How we say? Czech golds hand's... It's true. Liked and Subscribed. Greetings from OSTRAVA.
Hello I love your vid keep up the good work
Fantastic!!
Would love to see a no skid tutorial..
Ive had a nightmare merkava build and I want it to look great
Very useful as long as «Zvezda» will start to sale her first Sherman soon - Soviet M4A2 version (Zvezda’s turret lacks any cast texture)
incredible!!
Hi, it's nice work as usual. I'm using Lacquer thinner to melt surface before putting putty. But I think your way is more safety.
I'm going to to soon. Thank you !!!
Hello Martin another great help video ! 100% magic tips for my models ! Many thanks !! I wait if possible other vidéos on 1/72 scale your T90 it's a masterpiece !! Greetings from France ;)
Holy shit I have the larger scale Tamiya E8... I finally have a reason to apply Uncle's techniques
Lovely and well timed as I am going to build an American Sherman next.
Ace mate 😁👌
Dude, I love your videos. They're so informative and fun. Do you suppose you might ever venture into other subject matters, such as airplanes, cars, ships, or scifi? If tanks are where you want to stay, I understand, I was just curious to see your take on another subject.
Cool Stuff Sir, thanks for Sharing n God Bless All
I just picked up a 1/6 scale sherman and I think I am going to try this to make the turret look less cartoony
I've been looking but no one has a video on how the paints are used. Like... what goes on first then on top of that then on top of that? Acrylics... lacquers... enamels? and why? what are they thinned with and the benefits of one over the other. What type of paint can go on top of another type or should you not do that. I know you talk about it in some of your videos but is there a detailed painting video you have or know of another? Which kind is used for panel lining and which are used for top coat to chip off or which should not be used. Also what type of clear goes between coats and how many coats of clear go on... one coat of clear between each layer or only on top of the base paint and one on top of the decals? I look at a lot of modeling videos but I like how you cover the info the best. Is there any way you can make a video on paints and their applications for dummies?
Are you and Panzermeister36 having more psychic communications?
Anyway, great vid with what seems to be an easy but worthwhile technique. Great vid thanks for sharing.
Lol, this time, it was unplanned...