Im watching scale modeling RUclipsrs for over 10 years now and in guite positive that he is THE BEST over here. Even in top scale modeling shows you cannot see much better models than Night shift is making
For those wondering, the tank that’s being used as a reference is the IS2 in the American heritage museum in Stow MA, USA fantastic museum with dozens of fully restored tanks.
I have been to that museum in Massachusetts, and I can confirm the IS-2 and T-35-85 both have some crazy textures! You packed a tremendous amount of detail into those surfaces, I am very excited to see what the paint looks like!
Hey, I'm pretty familiar with that real life IS-2 you used as inspiration. Down at the American Heritage Museum in Massachusetts. You really don't get a good idea about how absolutely massive an IS-2 is (especially the gun) until you can stand under one
@@Rguhbuh I know, I meant that it isnt the specific tank in the pictures. Theyre the same type of tank, but the one he used for inspiration isnt the EXACT same tank that was in the museum
nope. Cracks are bad things, can't have them. Thats shrinkage. Steel doesn't flow at all like iron. Steel is usually forged, casting is a really limited process.
Fantastic casting detail, Uncle you really breathe life into your models. Your site is my favourite and I steal alot of your ideas and techniques for my own tanks. Thanks from the UK.
Great job on the armor textures. Looks amazing. A little insight to the tank in your reference photos. I live not far from the museum where that IS2 is located. Prior to coming to the US that tank was used as a range target in the Netherlands. Which would explain most of the really deep pits and gouges. The damage was filled in for display at the museum. Keep up the good work Martin.
I would assume that these scars are due to internal stresses of the metal at the turret when it was cooling off. When a cast cools off it contracts and the surface cracks up. Now I wonder how good was the armor against penetration. Internal stress is definitely not good for armor.
If I'm not mistaken, the steel used to create Soviet tanks was hardened at temperatures far in excess of the standard, leading to exceptionally hard and brittle armour
@@Hypperzz2 they didn't add as much nickel into their armor which makes the armor less brittle. I believe in memoirs tankers we're saying that if a Lend-leased Matilda turret got hit then the crew would most likely survive due to higher nickel content. If a t-34 turret got hit, crew had less chance of surviving.
One person serving in the People's Republic of Poland (communist Poland) army in the 1950s said that if they wanted to add some i.e. tool clamp to a tank they had to drill a hole in the armor and doing this to T-34/85s and IS-2s was easier than to Lend-Lease Half Tracks because of the steel quality.
Very nice model, I use the cement, and stiff brush techniques, but I also use Mr. Surfacer 500. Having worked in a steel mill when I was younger and seeing the castings on those soviet tanks, that "crap" would never pass in the states. We made the armor for the M-88 ARV. We also made seamless pipe that was used in Submarines.
I love you, and this is beautiful! But too much Putty... I think the melted plastic captured the little holes better! The putty smoothes it out a little too much (filling those holes!) I just built an old Tamiya T34 1942, and the casting in my reference photos was So Bad I resorted to Car Repair Putty! Chunks of it! I thought I had screwed it up... Until I Painted. It was spot on! My Uncle saw some Soviet Tractors at a show 40yrs ago, and he was amazed to see Mold Sand still clinging to the casting! And they had Painted Over It! Soviet Texture cannot be overdone... Now I've got to wait an entire week for another part. 😨😨😨
My compliments to you sir! I recently built this model. I definitely understated the texture in all areas of my tank as compared to yours and the reference photos you showed. I used Mr. Surfacer 500 to simulate texture, but totally missed on the flame cuts and those horizontal lines in the hull & turret. I look very forward to seeing this painted and of course the diorama you have planned. Outstanding!! 👍
Whats the manufacturer of your bending tool ? I'm looking for one for long time and don't know where to find and what one is the best for you ? I'm a great fan of your job and this js2 monster looks fantastic !!!
The cracks are potentially the result of a couple of factors, poor temperature control during the solidification can result in tears forming though these usually happen in line with curves and other stress concentration points, that doesnt seem to be the case in the reference picture especially as on such a large casting as this cracks would be pretty catastrophic. Another potential cause and imo the most likely is issues with the sand mold, either the blank, the sand composition, the quality of steel being poured or the gating system (how the molten metal is fed into the part). if the blank had imperfections then they would be represented in the final part, if the sand was either deficient in bentonite or coal dust, too low in moisture content or not packed enough then parts of the mold can break away during the fill and get included in the casting causing a very hard and very brittle region which would cause massive stress concentrations. these would need to be burred out and then filled with weld. additionally, if the gating and filling system is poor it will create a lot of turbulence in the steel as it flows into the mold which would damage the sand mold and cause inclusions as above. finally if the steel is of poorer quality it can create significant imperfections or if they have not cleared all the slag some of it may have been included in the cast and required removing, if the mold was too well packed or too high coal content, the off gassing from the interface could cause bubbles of co2 or co to be trapped against the surface creating indents that would need to be filled. I expect its caused mostly by poor mold quality, the texture being so rough in the first place indicates a course lower quality sand being used and sand inclusions would cause a lot of problems for a tanks armor. also as this was peak wartime russian production i imagine corners were cut to speed up the process which would result in uneven packing. the fact that all the lines seem to be near horizontal implies that they are layers where the region of sand near the mold hasnt been packed properly and consequently it has broken away into the casting during the pour. sorry for the long winded reply hopefully its at least interesting to anyone who reads it
The texturing looks really nice, Tamiya IS-2 is one of the best plastic kit on the market. One mark regrding the tracks. The one you got from an old model is a postwar type of IS tracks. For a wartime vehicle you should use the type you got as plsatic in the kit AFAIK. Friulmodel do the job as ATL-54.
Seconded! All tracks on IS-2s were 650mm wide, and you can choose from 3 different types. Firul ATL-54 would be an early type, with a split link without guide tooth on every second link. These were gradually replaced with ones with a guide tooth on every link, so near the end of the war this was the most common type (ATL-14). But then there's a 3rd type, also with a guide tooth on every link, which also can be seen on some late war photographs. AFAIK, this set is only available from MasterClub (35199), but good luck finding these due to the current political situation.
Ok, if I remember correctly from welding school the bevel in "single bevel" is for the shap of the metal not the bead. That is to say that top part of the butt joint (where the two pieces of metal meet) are each beveled like this : \/ Again, I'm not sure if I remember correctly, but I think the two different top pass looks are from different techniques. The horizontal looks are from a specification which might require convexity, where as the virticle, stacked coin/herringbone looking one is meant to be flat, for example in the fillet welds along the edge of the turret top plate where it meets the cast sides.
Awesome!!! 😁 I actually just picked up the same Aber barrel for an old reboxed Dragon kit (cyber hobby orange box) so perfect timing! I am glad you've done all the research legwork for me haha 😅 amazing work on this gnarly heavy 🎉🔥
The level of detail in the weld beads and texturing - amazing! 😳 No way I'm spending that much time on these kinds of details so, living vicariously through you, lol!
You ones said something like “ if someone tells me to build a Soviet tank, I’m gonna do it and there is nothing stopping me,” and you seemed very happy and enthusiastic to build this IS-2 :) This is going to be a very interesting and fun build, I look forward to seeing the next video! Any cool camouflage in mind except the 4BO and invasion stripes? It looks very good so far :D I’ve asked before: you have built specific vehicles that served before, but are you going to make any figure of a real person? It would really add some character (hahaha) to the build Greetings from Sweden :) Edit: after seeing those insane flame cuts I really wanna build an IS-2! Edit (V2): I wrote the comment before I finished watching the video, so the thing I said at the top was kinda useless lol
You’re a very bad man! 😜 Yes, you made splash out on this kit, just so I could try and emulate your effects.....😂 Actually it’s not going too badly and the plastics just right for those flame cuts, etc.....😎👍🏻👍🏻 Happy knarly cutting chomping slicing and melding....😜
I lobe your Tut.-Vids, but please do my a favour, and Build only one Time a modern Tank like for Example a Leopard 2, a SPz Marder, a Bradly orAnyrhing simular. I build RC-Modell‘s a in ~114-1/16 And your Vid‘s offen inspire me or even make me a 2 a better Modeller!!! Thx forthat❤️
The scars on the turret are very possibly from the Soviets removing the rough sharp casting imperfections with a grinder - they didn't do much tidying up on their castings but they did grind off the worst (especially sharp) imperfections.
You can also use either water or Vaseline/petroleum jelly instead of baby powder with green stuff. using a little vaseline as you mix it keeps it workable for a little longer. I use it alot on my 40k and D&D models, including to blend the upper hull of a 1/56 scale Warlord/Italeri Sherman V [that I got accidentally, I wanted a Sherman Firefly to make Besotten Jenny from the battle of Schloss Itter] with the lower hull and tracks of a Space marine Rhino to make a "Sherman Pattern" Baal Predator for my Blood Angels. I even added the Rotary Cannons to the Sherman turret. Imagine a Sherman upper hull and turret, with twin Vulcan Gatling Cannons [the gun on an A-10 or F-i4] on the treads and lower hull of an M-113 and side sponsons with dual heavy flamethrowers [40k does weapons in excess] and you have a baseline of the silliness I built. It will be blood red with shiny gold trim because to Space Marines, camouflage is almost heresy . They wear bright colors so their enemies KNOW they are facing the Emperor's Angels Of Death [and to distract fire from their camouflaged human allies giving fire support]
Soviet tanks rushed into production ----> rough, strong but also weak German tanks rushed into production ----> So Smooth, beautiful, elegant(but no tea)
the casting defect is left by the sand mold partially collapsing on that certain area due to shoddy compression if I’m correct, I worked a few years in metal manufacturing and machining so I know a few kinds of defect by sight
One thing you can do that a lot of js2s have or don't have is missing road wheels and suspension arms. There are several pictures of the guards unit that 432 is in that shows missing wheels.
Clarification about scratches. Is-2 was being prepared to confront the Tiger, Panther, Ferdinand. The designers of the USSR, when creating armor for the IS-2, relied on the process of creating it for the Il-2 attack aircraft. Cast molds at rational angles were smelted under unthinkable conditions and pressure, which was dangerous even for workers. Therefore, when the metal was finally poured, it did not have time to fill the entire volume of the mold and displace special additives. From here, creases appeared on the armor, which were welded by welding. But this is not accurate information.
You should try and bend some of those rough vent shields where you put the stowage. With all of the stuff that got put on those parts they wouldn’t be perfectly straight.
I’ve been working on an IS-2 in 1/56 so I’ll definitely use some of the strategies you used (but smaller) to make it better because yours looks amazing!
I tend to think of myself as a bit of an IS-2 enthusiast so let me say a few things about the tank. The armor scars probably come from several things and some of them aren't actually scars. For example, every single early IS-2 i have ever seen has three perfectly straight long flame cuts on the hull above the left fender. Those are probably some sort of holes in the mold, maybe casting inlets? The squiglly things going across the casting mark behind it are scars and they don't appear on all early tanks, some are very clean, some do have them. www.net-maquettes.com/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/IS-2_vol4/IS-2-14.jpg?bwg=1652712793 upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7c/Czolg_ciezki_IS-2.JPG Generally the hulls are very clean later though, Especially on later IS-2s with the sloped front, the hulls have quite a bit of texture but the "fill ins" are gone. there's no scars on this tank's hull for example, only heavy mold marks www.recomonkey.com/Land-Platforms/Tanks/IS-2/IS-2 The rolled armor plates are usually quite smooth with the shallower pitting looking mostly like cleaned and painted over rust. www.net-maquettes.com/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/IS-2_vol4/IS-2-12.jpg?bwg=1652712793 What about the turrets though Well the straight reinforcements on the turret MG are just parts of the mold, probably for better flow. Not all tanks have those, only the ones with the very slanted mold line on the front of the turret photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JXRPv2R/0/X2/i-JXRPv2R-X2.jpg like this detektorweb.info/images/stories/upload/2007/9337/obr3b.jpg but not like that (as you can see, the later is-2 mod 44 hulls are clean and scar free) The turrets still contain a lot of the scarring, especially around the left back corner until the latest perfectly straight mold line turrets which are good. Even some early tanks can be insanely clean though. The tank at duxford is smoother than sherman castings, probably a very early casting from a brand new mold. www.vhu.cz/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IS-122-1.jpg farm66.static.flickr.com/65535/49581487877_2a37bd955c.jpg What do those come from? Nobody knows, really. Early IS-2s were cast out of insanely hardened armour, to defeat APBC but because it was shown to fare badly against capped APCBC that the germans used, later tanks were much less hardened. I would suggest those would be remains of tear outs in the mold or, possibly in some cases, later repairs. photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JXRPv2R/0/X2/i-JXRPv2R-X2.jpg it's interesting here for example how the reinforcing sprew on the mg port is torn off next to the scar which would suggest mold damage to me. Maybe their casts were cracking? img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/143523/60413234.1a3/0_e204e_ea8786aa_orig this tank seems to have been hit to the side of the turret, causing major damage and having the side of the turret cut out and replaced with a rolled plate. The long scar coming from there might be an actual armour crack caused by the hit that was filled with welds during the repair? thumbs.dreamstime.com/b/rear-view-russian-tank-second-world-war-heavy-220555277.jpg this looks like the cast gave up i0.wp.com/overlandtravel.org/russia/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Lenino-Snegiri-Military-Historical-Museum-4.jpg?w=1024&ssl=1 The IS-2 at Lenino-Snegiri has a different turret mold again, once again woth it's own imperfections, but little scaring, despite being heavily shot up.
Please, your chanel is great byt please Russian Green. Can ypu make a more modern model next time. Dont give me wrong, I love yor chanel. But please WW2. Paint a BMP or s Cv90. Still I love your chanel, but we al have seen a milion russian green tanks.
Now if only buying all the paints/tools/extras didn't cost a small fortune *along* with the model itself... Just went to a hobby store and almost all of the 1/35 scale tanks (and a decent few of the 1/48 scale as well) were $60+. Also, I have no idea how you are able to make the plastic cement not show when applying on the outside. My current model has a lot of spots where you can see the plastic cement. And it doesn't even hold that well (using Mr. Hobby plastic deluxe plastic cement)
Have this kit sitting there so watching this with even more enthusiasm than normal. Gee that casting is terrible on the real tank. Makes you wonder if it impacted on its integrity vs AP ammo!
Awesome work Martin thank you for bringing us a tutorial on how to do Soviet cast textures. Can’t wait to add these techniques to my is-2 it’s the same kit you are currently working on. You have also encouraged me to make my models look extreme. As always thank you for being a big motivation for me.
Night Shift is building my favourite tank of all times with the same figure I built it with when I started building models like 4 years ago? Here comes the journey of self-loathing...
As always a great video and love the texture. Any suggestions of where to get a good jig for making handles? I've seen you use it a number of times in your videos and it looks like a really handy too.
I need to remove some resin from my pants, so I can fit into a BMP 2,those are cramped even for a skinny guy. Uncle delivers another crazy detailed model... Texture deluxe.
The turrets had such a texture because the earth casting technology was used at the Chelyabinsk Tractor Plant (form for turret was made in earth, and liquefied metal goes in it). It was easier in comparison with other complex technologies.
lol, voyager is neither "simple" nor has it good detail. most meng kits have better details from PLASTIC than voyager has from PE. Tetra Works does the best detail sets imo
The scars you refer to on the side of the turret are defects in the casting. Either big airholes (pores) or clumps of smaller holes (porosity) or balls of sand from the mould. They get ground back to proper metal and then filled with weld. I've welded loads like this, but we use fcaw now and not mma cos it's faster xx
don't forget the looted washing machine for this orc vehicle. i also wonder if you are doing a diorama with a "jack in the box" type explosion, after it was hit by an panzerschreck?
Can anyone give me some advice on using Tamyia epoxy putty he makes it look effortless but when I do it it just crumbles and goes everywhere I have tried flower and water and it was sent much different. Thanks
Btw how much do you charge for building a model lik that? I have been visiting the war museum in London latly and they have some cheap ass models on display there which made me think why tf they can't use their immense funds to actually put some good models there. I'm sure it would be affordable for a government funded institution...
I think the "scars" might've turned out more authentically if you flattened the rolls of a putty a bit, but didn't smooth them out all the way up to the edges of the scars. Love this work you did, though. :)
When it comes to texture Be wary about museum tanks! They are 80 years old after all and have been painted a couple of times. Maybe they have been neglected for a couple of years so that the surface rusted and got pitted. Who knows.
Hey Nightshift - another great video! Can you tell me what grab handle tool you used please, and also what metal wire? A mini video on these would be very cool :)
YES! I just unlocked this thing in War Thunder a couple days ago and it's really fun to play, was so disappointed that there wasn't a quality video of someone building a 1/35 scale model of this tank, that's now changed! Thank you Martin!
@Night Shift green stuff real name is Kneadatite, you can find it much cheaper under that name. you can leave it for a few minutes to avoid it being so sticky.
"I'm not a professional or an artist." Could have fooled me. You're one of the best scale modelers on youtube.
Yes but unlike others he remains simple and humble that's all the difference for me
He is the best on RUclips!
Im watching scale modeling RUclipsrs for over 10 years now and in guite positive that he is THE BEST over here. Even in top scale modeling shows you cannot see much better models than Night shift is making
Well, being a normal humble guy who just does his thing pays off, it would seem.
Amen
The evolution of NightShift:
2020: MORE TEXTURED EARTH!!!
2021: MORE STYROFOAM!!!
2022: MORE CAST TEXTURES!!!
Sangat inofatip anda memberikan ilmu tambahan intuk model skala yang sempurna seperti aslinya.
2024 “More modelling space”
These old soviet tanks are so cool with their gnarly texture and I've wanted you to do one for a long time!
The Edward James Olmos of tanks.
@@l1zrdking Now that's funny right there!
For those wondering, the tank that’s being used as a reference is the IS2 in the American heritage museum in Stow MA, USA fantastic museum with dozens of fully restored tanks.
cool next time i go to the US i will visit.
Back at it with the Soviet Heavies!!!! I love these old Soviet tanks, Night Shift! Can't wait for thd next update!
Makes me wonder if he’ll ever do soviet aircraft.
@@FalloutProto I don't think he's ever done or will build a plane
I'm a professional ironworker.
You freaking *nailed* the foundry textures of steel, especially flame cuts.
Great job man.
I have been to that museum in Massachusetts, and I can confirm the IS-2 and T-35-85 both have some crazy textures! You packed a tremendous amount of detail into those surfaces, I am very excited to see what the paint looks like!
Hey, I'm pretty familiar with that real life IS-2 you used as inspiration. Down at the American Heritage Museum in Massachusetts. You really don't get a good idea about how absolutely massive an IS-2 is (especially the gun) until you can stand under one
I dont think theyre the same tank
Definitely the one from the A.H.M.
I was there a few weeks ago.
@@leonardwhite2708 they are, is stands for ioisif stalin, while js is it translated as joseph stalin
@@Rguhbuh I know, I meant that it isnt the specific tank in the pictures. Theyre the same type of tank, but the one he used for inspiration isnt the EXACT same tank that was in the museum
the casting was propably done in a high temperature, then cooling it fast makes the steel crack, I think that's why they welded the cracks up
nope. Cracks are bad things, can't have them. Thats shrinkage. Steel doesn't flow at all like iron. Steel is usually forged, casting is a really limited process.
Fantastic casting detail, Uncle you really breathe life into your models. Your site is my favourite and I steal alot of your ideas and techniques for my own tanks. Thanks from the UK.
Just as I think my tanks are starting to get decent you set the bar even higher.
Great job on the armor textures. Looks amazing. A little insight to the tank in your reference photos. I live not far from the museum where that IS2 is located. Prior to coming to the US that tank was used as a range target in the Netherlands. Which would explain most of the really deep pits and gouges. The damage was filled in for display at the museum. Keep up the good work Martin.
I would assume that these scars are due to internal stresses of the metal at the turret when it was cooling off. When a cast cools off it contracts and the surface cracks up.
Now I wonder how good was the armor against penetration. Internal stress is definitely not good for armor.
If I'm not mistaken, the steel used to create Soviet tanks was hardened at temperatures far in excess of the standard, leading to exceptionally hard and brittle armour
@@Hypperzz2 they didn't add as much nickel into their armor which makes the armor less brittle. I believe in memoirs tankers we're saying that if a Lend-leased Matilda turret got hit then the crew would most likely survive due to higher nickel content. If a t-34 turret got hit, crew had less chance of surviving.
that is why a lot of t-34s where taken out, the german tanks didn't need to penetrate the tank to kill the crew
One person serving in the People's Republic of Poland (communist Poland) army in the 1950s said that if they wanted to add some i.e. tool clamp to a tank they had to drill a hole in the armor and doing this to T-34/85s and IS-2s was easier than to Lend-Lease Half Tracks because of the steel quality.
They're also due to the tanks being built by farmers, who had no experience building vehicles, or casting.
Tamiya kits by themselves are pretty impressive
I really could do with their simplicity again
Seventeenth
And another iconic project, I much, much appreciate! I love this soviet large-caliber "tigerkiller" tank. Great choice!!!
Very nice model, I use the cement, and stiff brush techniques, but I also use Mr. Surfacer 500. Having worked in a steel mill when I was younger and seeing the castings on those soviet tanks, that "crap" would never pass in the states. We made the armor for the M-88 ARV. We also made seamless pipe that was used in Submarines.
WHERE was this video FIVE MONTHS AGO when I was building my 1/56th scale IS-2 FROM LITERALLY THE SAME REFERENCE?!?!?!??!?!!!!?!?!!!😫😫🤭🤣🤣👌👌👏👏👏👏👏
What about the glorious soviet log for getting out of sticky situations
I love you, and this is beautiful! But too much Putty... I think the melted plastic captured the little holes better! The putty smoothes it out a little too much (filling those holes!) I just built an old Tamiya T34 1942, and the casting in my reference photos was So Bad I resorted to Car Repair Putty! Chunks of it! I thought I had screwed it up... Until I Painted. It was spot on! My Uncle saw some Soviet Tractors at a show 40yrs ago, and he was amazed to see Mold Sand still clinging to the casting! And they had Painted Over It! Soviet Texture cannot be overdone... Now I've got to wait an entire week for another part. 😨😨😨
I get the feeling Russian tanks could drive into your neighborhood and you'd be out there doing selfies...
(Just kidding around, but...)
My compliments to you sir! I recently built this model. I definitely understated the texture in all areas of my tank as compared to yours and the reference photos you showed. I used Mr. Surfacer 500 to simulate texture, but totally missed on the flame cuts and those horizontal lines in the hull & turret. I look very forward to seeing this painted and of course the diorama you have planned. Outstanding!! 👍
Looks fantastic already, IS-2 is such a beast. Wonderful job, greetings!!!!
Whats the manufacturer of your bending tool ? I'm looking for one for long time and don't know where to find and what one is the best for you ?
I'm a great fan of your job and this js2 monster looks fantastic !!!
The cracks are potentially the result of a couple of factors, poor temperature control during the solidification can result in tears forming though these usually happen in line with curves and other stress concentration points, that doesnt seem to be the case in the reference picture especially as on such a large casting as this cracks would be pretty catastrophic.
Another potential cause and imo the most likely is issues with the sand mold, either the blank, the sand composition, the quality of steel being poured or the gating system (how the molten metal is fed into the part). if the blank had imperfections then they would be represented in the final part, if the sand was either deficient in bentonite or coal dust, too low in moisture content or not packed enough then parts of the mold can break away during the fill and get included in the casting causing a very hard and very brittle region which would cause massive stress concentrations. these would need to be burred out and then filled with weld. additionally, if the gating and filling system is poor it will create a lot of turbulence in the steel as it flows into the mold which would damage the sand mold and cause inclusions as above.
finally if the steel is of poorer quality it can create significant imperfections or if they have not cleared all the slag some of it may have been included in the cast and required removing, if the mold was too well packed or too high coal content, the off gassing from the interface could cause bubbles of co2 or co to be trapped against the surface creating indents that would need to be filled.
I expect its caused mostly by poor mold quality, the texture being so rough in the first place indicates a course lower quality sand being used and sand inclusions would cause a lot of problems for a tanks armor. also as this was peak wartime russian production i imagine corners were cut to speed up the process which would result in uneven packing. the fact that all the lines seem to be near horizontal implies that they are layers where the region of sand near the mold hasnt been packed properly and consequently it has broken away into the casting during the pour.
sorry for the long winded reply hopefully its at least interesting to anyone who reads it
The texturing looks really nice, Tamiya IS-2 is one of the best plastic kit on the market. One mark regrding the tracks. The one you got from an old model is a postwar type of IS tracks. For a wartime vehicle you should use the type you got as plsatic in the kit AFAIK. Friulmodel do the job as ATL-54.
Seconded! All tracks on IS-2s were 650mm wide, and you can choose from 3 different types. Firul ATL-54 would be an early type, with a split link without guide tooth on every second link. These were gradually replaced with ones with a guide tooth on every link, so near the end of the war this was the most common type (ATL-14). But then there's a 3rd type, also with a guide tooth on every link, which also can be seen on some late war photographs. AFAIK, this set is only available from MasterClub (35199), but good luck finding these due to the current political situation.
Ok, if I remember correctly from welding school the bevel in "single bevel" is for the shap of the metal not the bead. That is to say that top part of the butt joint (where the two pieces of metal meet) are each beveled like this : \/
Again, I'm not sure if I remember correctly, but I think the two different top pass looks are from different techniques. The horizontal looks are from a specification which might require convexity, where as the virticle, stacked coin/herringbone looking one is meant to be flat, for example in the fillet welds along the edge of the turret top plate where it meets the cast sides.
Awesome!!! 😁 I actually just picked up the same Aber barrel for an old reboxed Dragon kit (cyber hobby orange box) so perfect timing! I am glad you've done all the research legwork for me haha 😅 amazing work on this gnarly heavy 🎉🔥
The level of detail in the weld beads and texturing - amazing! 😳 No way I'm spending that much time on these kinds of details so, living vicariously through you, lol!
damn this is extraordinary work! you never fail to deliver top notch models!
Damn you night shift, you're making me want to build all these expensive kits like the mkv and this is 2
The is2 is one of bast tank in the ussr maybe your next model should be the Mause
I wish I had your skill. I will keep pushing forward.
Nice one Martin wanted this kit for ages welljell.
Could you do a beginners video with low budget?
We love is 2 Night Shift
Looks great as always. These scars.. maybe that was connected with shrinkage during cooling of moulded cast? All the best for You! ;)
Russia builds the best military equipment.
You ones said something like “ if someone tells me to build a Soviet tank, I’m gonna do it and there is nothing stopping me,” and you seemed very happy and enthusiastic to build this IS-2 :)
This is going to be a very interesting and fun build, I look forward to seeing the next video! Any cool camouflage in mind except the 4BO and invasion stripes? It looks very good so far :D
I’ve asked before: you have built specific vehicles that served before, but are you going to make any figure of a real person? It would really add some character (hahaha) to the build
Greetings from Sweden :)
Edit: after seeing those insane flame cuts I really wanna build an IS-2!
Edit (V2): I wrote the comment before I finished watching the video, so the thing I said at the top was kinda useless lol
Its not friday until uncle nightshift hits me with his lovley "maah friends"
I always anticipate the building of Soviet tanks made by you! CANNOT to wait for the painting stage.
Beautiful model and excellent detailing. Can't wait to see how this one progresses!
Ahhhh yeaaah, absolutely stunning mate! 😎
Amazing as always, your skill level is off the scale!!! If I may, where did you get the wire bending jig???? Soooooo need one
"You wanna know how I got these scares?"
OMG ... Even you?????😢😢😢 Why no 1 knows the right way to use the Tamia scriber?????? 😮😮
REMEBER TO DO THE GULE TEXTUREING IN A VENTALATED ROOM! your room will smell like a chemical plant if you don't
Gr8 work. Like always. Im just start my own YT modelers chanel. Without talking but i try to change it in the future. Your models are the best.
You’re a very bad man! 😜 Yes, you made splash out on this kit, just so I could try and emulate your effects.....😂 Actually it’s not going too badly and the plastics just right for those flame cuts, etc.....😎👍🏻👍🏻 Happy knarly cutting chomping slicing and melding....😜
I lobe your Tut.-Vids, but please do my a favour, and Build only one Time a modern Tank like for Example a Leopard 2, a SPz Marder, a Bradly orAnyrhing simular.
I build RC-Modell‘s a in ~114-1/16
And your Vid‘s offen inspire me or even make me a 2 a better Modeller!!!
Thx forthat❤️
Looking dam amazing man!💥💥💥💥💥💥✌
what is that texure putty called?
Another amazing job! Please show more of the creation of the stowage you put on! 3D printed? Copper wire!😎😎😎
The scars on the turret are very possibly from the Soviets removing the rough sharp casting imperfections with a grinder - they didn't do much tidying up on their castings but they did grind off the worst (especially sharp) imperfections.
You can also use either water or Vaseline/petroleum jelly instead of baby powder with green stuff. using a little vaseline as you mix it keeps it workable for a little longer. I use it alot on my 40k and D&D models, including to blend the upper hull of a 1/56 scale Warlord/Italeri Sherman V [that I got accidentally, I wanted a Sherman Firefly to make Besotten Jenny from the battle of Schloss Itter] with the lower hull and tracks of a Space marine Rhino to make a "Sherman Pattern" Baal Predator for my Blood Angels. I even added the Rotary Cannons to the Sherman turret.
Imagine a Sherman upper hull and turret, with twin Vulcan Gatling Cannons [the gun on an A-10 or F-i4] on the treads and lower hull of an M-113 and side sponsons with dual heavy flamethrowers [40k does weapons in excess] and you have a baseline of the silliness I built. It will be blood red with shiny gold trim because to Space Marines, camouflage is almost heresy . They wear bright colors so their enemies KNOW they are facing the Emperor's Angels Of Death [and to distract fire from their camouflaged human allies giving fire support]
I'VE SEEN THAT EXACT IS2 AT 1:19. it's a place called the American Heritage Museum in Hudson, Massachusetts. Coolest damn place on the planet
Soviet tanks rushed into production ----> rough, strong but also weak
German tanks rushed into production ----> So Smooth, beautiful, elegant(but no tea)
the casting defect is left by the sand mold partially collapsing on that certain area due to shoddy compression if I’m correct, I worked a few years in metal manufacturing and machining so I know a few kinds of defect by sight
One thing you can do that a lot of js2s have or don't have is missing road wheels and suspension arms. There are several pictures of the guards unit that 432 is in that shows missing wheels.
Love your work. I watch the channel every Friday. Keep up the good work 🫡
Clarification about scratches. Is-2 was being prepared to confront the Tiger, Panther, Ferdinand. The designers of the USSR, when creating armor for the IS-2, relied on the process of creating it for the Il-2 attack aircraft. Cast molds at rational angles were smelted under unthinkable conditions and pressure, which was dangerous even for workers. Therefore, when the metal was finally poured, it did not have time to fill the entire volume of the mold and displace special additives. From here, creases appeared on the armor, which were welded by welding. But this is not accurate information.
You should try and bend some of those rough vent shields where you put the stowage. With all of the stuff that got put on those parts they wouldn’t be perfectly straight.
I’ve been working on an IS-2 in 1/56 so I’ll definitely use some of the strategies you used (but smaller) to make it better because yours looks amazing!
I tend to think of myself as a bit of an IS-2 enthusiast so let me say a few things about the tank.
The armor scars probably come from several things and some of them aren't actually scars. For example, every single early IS-2 i have ever seen has three perfectly straight long flame cuts on the hull above the left fender. Those are probably some sort of holes in the mold, maybe casting inlets? The squiglly things going across the casting mark behind it are scars and they don't appear on all early tanks, some are very clean, some do have them.
www.net-maquettes.com/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/IS-2_vol4/IS-2-14.jpg?bwg=1652712793
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7c/Czolg_ciezki_IS-2.JPG
Generally the hulls are very clean later though, Especially on later IS-2s with the sloped front, the hulls have quite a bit of texture but the "fill ins" are gone. there's no scars on this tank's hull for example, only heavy mold marks
www.recomonkey.com/Land-Platforms/Tanks/IS-2/IS-2
The rolled armor plates are usually quite smooth with the shallower pitting looking mostly like cleaned and painted over rust.
www.net-maquettes.com/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/IS-2_vol4/IS-2-12.jpg?bwg=1652712793
What about the turrets though
Well the straight reinforcements on the turret MG are just parts of the mold, probably for better flow. Not all tanks have those, only the ones with the very slanted mold line on the front of the turret
photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JXRPv2R/0/X2/i-JXRPv2R-X2.jpg like this
detektorweb.info/images/stories/upload/2007/9337/obr3b.jpg but not like that (as you can see, the later is-2 mod 44 hulls are clean and scar free)
The turrets still contain a lot of the scarring, especially around the left back corner until the latest perfectly straight mold line turrets which are good. Even some early tanks can be insanely clean though. The tank at duxford is smoother than sherman castings, probably a very early casting from a brand new mold.
www.vhu.cz/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IS-122-1.jpg
farm66.static.flickr.com/65535/49581487877_2a37bd955c.jpg
What do those come from? Nobody knows, really. Early IS-2s were cast out of insanely hardened armour, to defeat APBC but because it was shown to fare badly against capped APCBC that the germans used, later tanks were much less hardened. I would suggest those would be remains of tear outs in the mold or, possibly in some cases, later repairs.
photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JXRPv2R/0/X2/i-JXRPv2R-X2.jpg it's interesting here for example how the reinforcing sprew on the mg port is torn off next to the scar which would suggest mold damage to me. Maybe their casts were cracking?
img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/143523/60413234.1a3/0_e204e_ea8786aa_orig this tank seems to have been hit to the side of the turret, causing major damage and having the side of the turret cut out and replaced with a rolled plate. The long scar coming from there might be an actual armour crack caused by the hit that was filled with welds during the repair?
thumbs.dreamstime.com/b/rear-view-russian-tank-second-world-war-heavy-220555277.jpg this looks like the cast gave up
i0.wp.com/overlandtravel.org/russia/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Lenino-Snegiri-Military-Historical-Museum-4.jpg?w=1024&ssl=1 The IS-2 at Lenino-Snegiri has a different turret mold again, once again woth it's own imperfections, but little scaring, despite being heavily shot up.
Please, your chanel is great byt please Russian Green. Can ypu make a more modern model next time.
Dont give me wrong, I love yor chanel.
But please WW2. Paint a BMP or s Cv90.
Still I love your chanel, but we al have
seen a milion russian green tanks.
Now if only buying all the paints/tools/extras didn't cost a small fortune *along* with the model itself... Just went to a hobby store and almost all of the 1/35 scale tanks (and a decent few of the 1/48 scale as well) were $60+. Also, I have no idea how you are able to make the plastic cement not show when applying on the outside. My current model has a lot of spots where you can see the plastic cement. And it doesn't even hold that well (using Mr. Hobby plastic deluxe plastic cement)
I would LOVE to se what you could do with the new tank kit "Kratos" from Games Workshop. They have upped their tank model-kits immensely.
Have this kit sitting there so watching this with even more enthusiasm than normal. Gee that casting is terrible on the real tank. Makes you wonder if it impacted on its integrity vs AP ammo!
Awesome work Martin thank you for bringing us a tutorial on how to do Soviet cast textures. Can’t wait to add these techniques to my is-2 it’s the same kit you are currently working on. You have also encouraged me to make my models look extreme. As always thank you for being a big motivation for me.
Hope you'll do something different one time, like an anti air rocket launcher vehicle, or a car
Wonderful job, as usual!. I'm curious about the bending tool, Where I can find it?. Thanks!.
Night Shift is building my favourite tank of all times with the same figure I built it with when I started building models like 4 years ago? Here comes the journey of self-loathing...
As always a great video and love the texture. Any suggestions of where to get a good jig for making handles? I've seen you use it a number of times in your videos and it looks like a really handy too.
I need to remove some resin from my pants, so I can fit into a BMP 2,those are cramped even for a skinny guy.
Uncle delivers another crazy detailed model... Texture deluxe.
Another great tutorial my friend,could you tel me where I would get one of the bending tool you used in this video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@night shift, can you make a plane once? B52 or something similar? Small diorama with b52 destroyed and landed somewhere at muggy lands
"...the brakes on the texture train have malfunctioned..."
WELL
The turrets had such a texture because the earth casting technology was used at the Chelyabinsk Tractor Plant (form for turret was made in earth, and liquefied metal goes in it). It was easier in comparison with other complex technologies.
Great work! Awesome textures. Can you share who makes the special tool for making the grab handles?
素晴らしい出来ですねベルリン攻防戦でドイツ軍バリケードでフェンダーを壊した状態のヨセフスターリン戦車カッコいいです。
lol, voyager is neither "simple" nor has it good detail. most meng kits have better details from PLASTIC than voyager has from PE. Tetra Works does the best detail sets imo
The scars you refer to on the side of the turret are defects in the casting. Either big airholes (pores) or clumps of smaller holes (porosity) or balls of sand from the mould. They get ground back to proper metal and then filled with weld. I've welded loads like this, but we use fcaw now and not mma cos it's faster xx
I cannot buy the Tamiya two-part epoxy in California, is there another epoxy with similar characteristics you would recommend?
Awesome stuff! Please tell me though, you’re not licking that toothpick periodically, to moisten it 😂🥴
don't forget the looted washing machine for this orc vehicle. i also wonder if you are doing a diorama with a "jack in the box" type explosion, after it was hit by an panzerschreck?
Can anyone give me some advice on using Tamyia epoxy putty he makes it look effortless but when I do it it just crumbles and goes everywhere I have tried flower and water and it was sent much different. Thanks
How about a E100 with the Krupp turret, there’s virtually no one building this model.
Btw how much do you charge for building a model lik that? I have been visiting the war museum in London latly and they have some cheap ass models on display there which made me think why tf they can't use their immense funds to actually put some good models there. I'm sure it would be affordable for a government funded institution...
I think the "scars" might've turned out more authentically if you flattened the rolls of a putty a bit, but didn't smooth them out all the way up to the edges of the scars. Love this work you did, though. :)
When it comes to texture
Be wary about museum tanks!
They are 80 years old after all and have been painted a couple of times. Maybe they have been neglected for a couple of years so that the surface rusted and got pitted.
Who knows.
Hey Nightshift - another great video! Can you tell me what grab handle tool you used please, and also what metal wire? A mini video on these would be very cool :)
Would you ever attempt such building methods on any ship models in the future ?
6:43 Now that´s a lot of damage! But don´t worry, with the Flextape™ it´s gonna be a piece of cake.
I personally want the Trumpeter IS-2M because the extra stowage on the sides near the front make it look nice.
Interesting tanks you could build is the IS-3 or the Olifant Mk.2
Nice . I really like that. Trying to get myPatronage back up. Had to deal with card fraud.
YES! I just unlocked this thing in War Thunder a couple days ago and it's really fun to play, was so disappointed that there wasn't a quality video of someone building a 1/35 scale model of this tank, that's now changed! Thank you Martin!
урааа!!
That thumbnail really looks like the IS-2 No 321 that War Thunder recently added as an event vehicle
@Night Shift
green stuff real name is Kneadatite, you can find it much cheaper under that name. you can leave it for a few minutes to avoid it being so sticky.