I've used oils to do horses. For bays and chestnuts paint an acrylic undercoat of tan. Then brush on a very thick wash (much thicker than you have used here) of burnt umber or Van dyke brown and let stand for an hour or so. Then wipe with foam. Depending on the breed I might apply black or white to the lower legs. For White and gray horses undercoat in gray white and apply oil wash using Payne's Gray. This technique will also let you create dappled grays where you stipple on gray and white washes on hind quarters and shoulders. Oil washes on horses can look rather glossy which can reproduce the effect of sweaty hair. I've had less success doing black horses with this method.
You mentioned having trouble using this technique to get good looking black horses... I'm curious to know what that process was, specifically, to maybe see what can be done to accomplish it. I've got a few older kits with horses that I'm looking to paint, and black could look pretty baller there...
I've watched alot of channels and tutorials but it's got to be said; your videos are calming, easy to follow and i feel that i really absorb the information and techniques you put across easiest! Thankyou
I had previously done a little bit of panel lining with oil paints and it was amazing. I had a rocky base on a model last night and I tried going over the whole base with brown to get dirt between the rocks. It wiped off amazingly but left "dirt" between the rocks and made them nice and dirty without making them look like brown rocks. This hobby never ceases to find new ways to amaze me.
I just got into mini painting after getting a used 3D printer to toy around with out of interest a few weeks ago. You sir hands down deliver the most valuable educational videos imo. not only are they incredibly detailed, you also never fail to provide the reason for why you are doing something a certain way, not only showing how to do it! thank you so much for your effort!
For me, the biggest barrier to oils is disposal. In my area (not sure how much it varies across states) acrylics can go in the trash, while oils/mineral spirits have to go to hazmat disposal which is a pain and sometimes has disposal fees. Great video for those who are so inclined though.
I've started using oils over acrylic base layers to paint flowing cloaks. Super long working time and insane blending ability means that with a basic blue and a white I can just get amazing results.
Great video! One little tip i got was that when you mix your wash, it will go faster to achieve a smooth blend if you mix the paint with a small part of the thinner first. That helps break up the lumps. Then you add more thinner to get the consistency you want. Its like making pancake batter. If you mix the flour with all the liquid right away there will be lumps. If you add part of the liquid and mix, you will get a smooth blend much quicker 👍
Oils made the painting process more relaxing, and now I enjoy myself more after incorporating them. So many fun and intresting usages such as wet on wet overbrush can work easy.
@@criticalcommenter The thinners can and do evaporate. Just in the video, Vince was looking for the right term on this and said it was a reaction with light, and it's mostly a reaction with oxygen. That being said, absolutely the hydrocarbon volatiles do evaporate
Correction: when oil paints cure, they DO react with the oxygen in the air. Without oxygen, they won't cure at all! However, the reaction is initiated by light (ultraviolet light in particular), and as you said, it is much slower than the evaporation of the white spirits.
There is also "oil dot filter" technique used by scale modelers and applicable to big miniatures. It is used to break the uniform look of plain areas. Basically you place a whole bunch the dots of different colors oil paint or wash on the model and then depending using dabbing or streaking movements of the brush you blend them in across the whole model. This gives a model more worn look and makes it look quite a bit interesting.
Thanks for another good video. Although you don't "Need" to varnish before applying oil washes, you can use varnish to your advantage, depending on what type of effect you want. A gloss varnish coat will help the oil wash to flow and is great is you just want panels lining for example. In contrast a coat of matte varnish will make the surface rougher, as a result the oil wash will "stick" more to the surface and this is good if you want to stain larger areas. Moreover, as you mention, a varnish coat gives some protection to your paint layers if you intend to rub the oil wash more agressively. In practice I have found that even using a gentle brush dipped in white spirit to clean up the wash can easily damage you previous acrylic layers.
To speed up drying time, just add to your wash Cobalt drier (see product for proportions). I wonder if Vince uses it and his thoughts about that stuff. It works fine for me, tho you have to keep in mind oils always take long time time to FULLY cure. There's also oil brands (think Abteilung) formulated for model painting which also slightly cut the curing time over cheaper options. WinTon has always been my go to brand tbh but Abteilung are good too.
I would love to see your approach to using these techniques when it comes to 'speed painting' an army. I'm currently experimenting with oil washes on my Kruleboyz!
Simple techniques, shown clearly and carefully explained, there's a lot more you can do with oils but if you only used them this way then you'd create marvellous effects that the eye loves
You gave me the courage to try it out with that first video you released. Once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to regular washes. Thank you Vince!
One of these weeks, I'd love to see you do a product review on the Villainy Ink line (of enamels). I got mine recently and I've been excited about the different ways I can play with it, but it'd be awesome to see what you think!
I finally did an oil wash for the first time, on my Ironclad Drake just a few days ago. Your vid gave me the push needed and i really enjoyed the process, and it looks good too
Love the oil videos. I'm just starting out with them, and compared to acrylics, there aren't many videos about the process out there. I don't enjoy 2hr videos packed with non sequiturs, so this is perfect 🤘
I've watched a lot of oil-wash videos, and I think you are the first person to talk about liquid's impact on acrylic paint, liquid of any type. Thanks for that. It was the explanation I needed for this tiny but quite integral point. So this one sat for around 90 minutes, does the amount of mineral spirits impact the drying time? I'm almost ready to assume the thinner the wash, the more mineral spirits used, the faster the drying time.
literally just got an adeptus titanicus starter box and some oil paint supplies and planned to figure it out over this weekend. fortuna favet! the timing could not be more perfect, thank you vince!
Great video vince as always. I need some advice here: I recently started a custom Mark 2 Horus Heresy White Scars army and I applied all the base colors and nice transitions (white armour, red shoulderpads) with an airbrush. Then, I applied decals with microset and microsol, sealed with varnish through airbrush, all nice and good. Next step is to get all the little recesses, bolts, etc. shaded so oil wash time, the plan after that is easy going again. I tried a dark grey and different black and brown mixes from Winsor & Newton, Abteilung 502 and already finished ones from AK such as starship wash. No matter how thin or thick I mix it and no matter if I apply no varnish, matte varnish or gloss varnish before the oilwash, it ALWAYS stains the white too much even after really removing all of it on the surfaces as good as I can (no matter if I let it dry first or not, also tried all kinds of mineral spirits and solvents) with q-tips and brushes. I just can't make it work to just get the recesses nice and dark and the surface as close to the original cold white as I can. I also tried just pinwash but it was basically the same result. I applied the same process with a 30k Death Guard army with awesome results so I am very surprised that cold white in contrast to bone color causes such an issue. Any ideas?
So cold whites like that use a large titanium pigment likely, so they are very matte and can trap pigment from the wash really easy, making it difficult to get completely clean. In effect, they are always going to be stained to some degree. You can minimize it some with a heavy gloss varnish, but there is always going to be some residual staining.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I will give it one more try with a bit more gloss varnish before! Since decals are already on and sealed and preassembly with red is already glued on that's gonna be it I guess 😀
How much you thin it depends on your way of working with them. I like to panel line things with them, so I want the wash thin enough to do the capillary action better, but still strong enough to show.
I always hated the lengthy drying/curing time. I’m talking DAYS for a piece of terrain. However, you can pick up Liquin Impasto (gloss finish) or Oleo impasto to mix with the oils and cut down on their drying time and influence their finish.
I don’t know about white spirits interacting with acrylics, but I found out turpentine sure does! Make sure your brushes are completely dry after a turpentine cleaning.
I’m about to attempt my first oil wash on my grey knights. I’m hoping that a blue wash will help kind of tint it and settle in the recesses but I can hopefully take it off on large flat sections so it keeps its shinyness
Since there are so many opinions out there, I'd really like to get your take on any safety precautions of using odorless mineral spirits (well ventilated room, mask, gloves) and disposing of the materials (paper towels, q-tips) that come in contact with the spirits.
I've been having issues pinwashing armour panels. I'll drop it in watch it fill in all the lines, very satisfying. I'll go away and come back and the lines are all broken up. What was once a solid filled panelline is now looking like a squashed dalmatian with the white base coat showing through
05:14 you mention that oil points cure with "light". I'm not a chemist (I dropped my chemistry major for physics) but isn't the oil medium just oxidizing? So air plays a pretty critical role in this. I don't see what role light has to play in this process.
What care do you need to have to paint with oils? I know I have to have good ventilation, but for example how long does the fume stay in the air and such? I have a little kid and I worry it might be bad for her if the thing stays up on the air for a very long time
I really like to paint things like skin or NMM by oil paints. It takes time to learn how to mix your own colors but it definitely worth it. Even if curing time sometimes is insanely long.
Hey Vince love the video, very informative. The only thing I would ask about is clean up brushes and metal mixing cups since it is probably not good to wash with water. So if you are using spirits to clean brushes and mixing cups, what do you do with the dirty or used spirits to dispose of them properly?
The video I needed, my experience with oils is them flowing out of recess to a lower point in the model - I'm now thinking this may be due to diluting the oil too much.
Yeah, with oils you can even make what some call a “gunk wash” where you’re just slathering oil paint all over the model and then just use a brush dampened with mineral spirits to remove most of it. It blends beautifully as well.
Hello, I have a few questions. Don't know if it is too expansive to cover in a comment. I've been trying a little bit of oil washing, oil paint and AK like stuff, and I don't feel very confident about safely disposing of leftover wash and oil paint spills, cleanup and similar. I've watched some videos and googled, but it mostly covers it from the perspective of using canvas painting large amounts of oils and solvents etc. So, the question is: what is a safe method to clean up after an oil wash session? What would you recommend or practice? Thank you very much for all the wonderful HC vids, they help a lot!
You generally have so little, I wipe it up with a paper towel and then throw it away, you always want to use as little as possible so there isn’t much left over.
Thanks for the great insight. Oil washes are fantastic. They do some amazing things to terrain too. I've got two questions from the boring side of the hobby. Do you have any tips on cleaning brushes after using an oil wash and what do you do with the used mineral spirits when you are done?
When I paint my Night Lords, I bring my blue a bit lighter than I want. When I oil wash with Pjthalo blue mixed with black, I go all over. Even after wiping it away, the blue underneath has been darkened down and is more 'blue' than before. It was a happy accident on a test figure when figuring out a scheme I liked, but I've kept doing it because filtering with oils like that is so straightforward.
Great and helpful video! Will we get an oil paint Video list? You have so many videos so going through them and group them thematically would be super helpful... but also a lot of videos to go through 😅
Great video just stumbled upon it today. After watching the older one that you have done. In the older video you mention how you use washes to create effects on skin would you ever do an oil wash to achieve effects for skin?
Yep, though it's slightly different, I have a few videos in the playlist specifically on painting skin with oils, so check those out and you'll see the details. :)
Hey Vince! LOVE your videos as they really have made getting into this hobby more accessible. This really makes me want to jump into oil washes. Quick Q: if doing the simple wash with these, should this be done after the miniature is pretty much complete (base, layers, highlights) AND/OR can it be done after base coats and before layering/highlights? Just trying to better understand what step would yield the best results.
Have you tried mixing in some rust effects pigment to make the oil a bit gritty for corrosion, or would you recommend building that texture up on the model before the oil wash stage?
You used Gamblin oil paints in the video. Does oil paint quality make as much difference in oil paints as they do in acrylic paints? Should I pick up a couple of tubes of artist grade paint or a more introductory grade to start with? Or if I buy a few more, for what quality should I be looking?
I used Winton (from Winsor and Newton), these are the student stuff, artist grade can make it easier to wash and certainly can be more valuable if you're doing actual painting with oils. Abtelung also makes things good for washes.
Not really, as long as the room has some venthilation, you'll be fine, but don't work in a closed room. A respirator is good if you have sensitivity to the smells or your room isn't well vented. Otherwise, we need to have the room aired out afterwards.
Remember that colors other than black or brown can be employed to achieve various effects. Adding a bit of blue can make recesses colder. Green can give a mossy or verdigris effect. Purple on pale flesh can make it look more sickly.
So with mixing oil washes is it any easier to mix by starting with much less thinner working to incorporate everything and then adding more thinner and stirring a few more times? For example if you had started with only one to two pipits of thinner for your first wash of the video. I'm also curious if there are any good techniques for using something like a white spirit based enamel paint as the wetting agent for your brush when your streaking oils.
So as to the first, yes, if you're starting, you are right that is the way to build it up slowly. I haven't tried the enamel wetting agent, interesting idea
I love oil washes. Tried Monument Hobbies Newsh recently. It's a pretty good acrylic approximation, but I actually lifted paint when I was wiping it off, particularly on certain edges. Maybe varnishing first in that case might be a good idea since it's acrylic medium?
Be Sir-Mix-A-Lot? That's a tall task. "I like thick paints and I cannot like, you other painters can't deny, when a tube of paint with that artist grade get squeezed I get sprung..."
Dear Vince, thank you for this vieo! Very informative, I have used this technique on my elves for T:OW with great success! I wonder, should I varnish the metallics after the oil wash, or is it fine just keep it as it is? Its gaming models, so there will be some minor touching to the models (although they are magnetized and in movement trays). Would the oils go off? Thanks for your amazing work and support to the community!
Forgot if it was mentioned In the video but I'm wondering if you need ventilation/a respirator for using oil washes since my work room is also my bed room.
The white spirits you're using are a very small amount so you don't have to worry as much. Now that being said, it does off-gas and evaporate, you don't want to be breathing that. So do the wash, make sure the room is venting and then set the figure somewhere else to cure with better vent if possible.
Hello Vince, thank you for the tutorial! I paint my minis with an airbrush, then I gloss varnish them with an airbrush and then I use oil washes. Why some acrilic paint goes away when I remove oils with sponge/q-tips?
Varnish is only so durable, when you're getting something that wet, it can always risk pulling up paint, your best bet is either a second varnish layer, or you can work lighter, very light touch, very little white spirits.
Another helpful Vince Venturella video. Just a small query, as I know you are a big fan of Monument hobbies paints. Have you tried the Newsh wash. If you have, will you be doing a product review. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Quick question about varnish, could you do an overall matte varnish, and then zenithal with a gloss varnish? Do you think this will give any advantage?
Are the oil paints/washes safe to be used with the nicer acrylic paint brushes such as Kolinksy sables, or would you recommend sticking with synthetics? Also, are these the washes that are shown in a lot of "tiktok" videos that have them flow solely into the recesses? Thanks for the great content!
Another great and informative video, but one thing no one seems to mention is how long are you leaving between different techniques or layers? My main issue is that, for instance, I'll apply an overall oil wash as you have here, but when I go back later to do more localised staining or streaking, I pull the previous wash off. Am I being impatient? Do I need to wait several days rather than just overnight? Or am I doing something else wrong? Thanks.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
03:58 oh to the contrary - my Warhammer Minis do in fact owe me money. A LOT.
"A Venturella always paints his debts."
lol, i came to the comments to say this exact thing!!
😄
“It doesn’t owe you any money”
LOL
Hahaha my initial reaction too! XD
But I'm gonna get my money's worth out of them 😂
I've used oils to do horses. For bays and chestnuts paint an acrylic undercoat of tan. Then brush on a very thick wash (much thicker than you have used here) of burnt umber or Van dyke brown and let stand for an hour or so. Then wipe with foam. Depending on the breed I might apply black or white to the lower legs. For White and gray horses undercoat in gray white and apply oil wash using Payne's Gray. This technique will also let you create dappled grays where you stipple on gray and white washes on hind quarters and shoulders. Oil washes on horses can look rather glossy which can reproduce the effect of sweaty hair. I've had less success doing black horses with this method.
Dude this sounds awesome I need some pics!!
You mentioned having trouble using this technique to get good looking black horses... I'm curious to know what that process was, specifically, to maybe see what can be done to accomplish it. I've got a few older kits with horses that I'm looking to paint, and black could look pretty baller there...
Vincey V is the best dude ever.
Thanks for showing us the way, straight to the point, no fluff.
James Wappel would be proud. Great tutorial and explanation.
I've watched alot of channels and tutorials but it's got to be said; your videos are calming, easy to follow and i feel that i really absorb the information and techniques you put across easiest! Thankyou
Awesome, thank you!
Oil washes have been the single thing that transformed my painting the most. Its just a great tool to have
I had previously done a little bit of panel lining with oil paints and it was amazing. I had a rocky base on a model last night and I tried going over the whole base with brown to get dirt between the rocks. It wiped off amazingly but left "dirt" between the rocks and made them nice and dirty without making them look like brown rocks. This hobby never ceases to find new ways to amaze me.
Nice work!
I just got into mini painting after getting a used 3D printer to toy around with out of interest a few weeks ago. You sir hands down deliver the most valuable educational videos imo. not only are they incredibly detailed, you also never fail to provide the reason for why you are doing something a certain way, not only showing how to do it! thank you so much for your effort!
Glad I could help :)
I tried oil paints last week. I had three problems. And you adressed all three of them. Thank you very much.
For me, the biggest barrier to oils is disposal. In my area (not sure how much it varies across states) acrylics can go in the trash, while oils/mineral spirits have to go to hazmat disposal which is a pain and sometimes has disposal fees.
Great video for those who are so inclined though.
Next to a wet pallet and a good light, I think adding in oil paints has been the biggest game changer for me over the years.
I've started using oils over acrylic base layers to paint flowing cloaks. Super long working time and insane blending ability means that with a basic blue and a white I can just get amazing results.
I just tried oil washes for the first time last week. Easy and great results! No fighting tide marks/coffee stains.
Great video! One little tip i got was that when you mix your wash, it will go faster to achieve a smooth blend if you mix the paint with a small part of the thinner first. That helps break up the lumps. Then you add more thinner to get the consistency you want.
Its like making pancake batter. If you mix the flour with all the liquid right away there will be lumps. If you add part of the liquid and mix, you will get a smooth blend much quicker 👍
Oils made the painting process more relaxing, and now I enjoy myself more after incorporating them. So many fun and intresting usages such as wet on wet overbrush can work easy.
I love all Vince Ventrilla videos 👏👍🤙
And professor DM!
Venturella
Minor note, curing isn't a reaction with light, it's oxidation, so it's a chemical reaction, not evaporation.
Not for the thinners. Often they burn off faster in the heat
@@criticalcommenterheat tends to accelerate chemical reactions
@@criticalcommenter The thinners can and do evaporate. Just in the video, Vince was looking for the right term on this and said it was a reaction with light, and it's mostly a reaction with oxygen. That being said, absolutely the hydrocarbon volatiles do evaporate
Correction: when oil paints cure, they DO react with the oxygen in the air. Without oxygen, they won't cure at all! However, the reaction is initiated by light (ultraviolet light in particular), and as you said, it is much slower than the evaporation of the white spirits.
There is also "oil dot filter" technique used by scale modelers and applicable to big miniatures. It is used to break the uniform look of plain areas. Basically you place a whole bunch the dots of different colors oil paint or wash on the model and then depending using dabbing or streaking movements of the brush you blend them in across the whole model. This gives a model more worn look and makes it look quite a bit interesting.
life saver for someone foraying into oil paints for the first time
Thanks for another good video. Although you don't "Need" to varnish before applying oil washes, you can use varnish to your advantage, depending on what type of effect you want. A gloss varnish coat will help the oil wash to flow and is great is you just want panels lining for example. In contrast a coat of matte varnish will make the surface rougher, as a result the oil wash will "stick" more to the surface and this is good if you want to stain larger areas.
Moreover, as you mention, a varnish coat gives some protection to your paint layers if you intend to rub the oil wash more agressively. In practice I have found that even using a gentle brush dipped in white spirit to clean up the wash can easily damage you previous acrylic layers.
To speed up drying time, just add to your wash Cobalt drier (see product for proportions).
I wonder if Vince uses it and his thoughts about that stuff. It works fine for me, tho you have to keep in mind oils always take long time time to FULLY cure.
There's also oil brands (think Abteilung) formulated for model painting which also slightly cut the curing time over cheaper options.
WinTon has always been my go to brand tbh but Abteilung are good too.
Vince, you're the man! A true Bob Ross of miniature painting.
10:10 I have multiple pure PR101 oil/acrylic paints, but this Winton one remains my favorite hue wise. Very full on orange rust brown.
I would love to see your approach to using these techniques when it comes to 'speed painting' an army. I'm currently experimenting with oil washes on my Kruleboyz!
Simple techniques, shown clearly and carefully explained, there's a lot more you can do with oils but if you only used them this way then you'd create marvellous effects that the eye loves
I was there for HC 89 and I am here for HC 447 as well. Happy to see that you're still going strong 💪 Vince!
Awesome! Thank you!
You gave me the courage to try it out with that first video you released. Once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to regular washes. Thank you Vince!
Thank you sir, I didn’t know I can use oil over acrylic, more videos like these please.🙏🏼
Will do!
Oil paints are so much fun to experiment with. I appreciate your hobby videos, great for inspiration as I work on my various projects.
Great video! Need to do this on significantly smaller mini's, so we'll see how it goes.
Give it a shot!
This is awesome because it just expands on a video that I still use to this day for all my knights.
Thank you vince v. I had been looking forward to start with oils
One of these weeks, I'd love to see you do a product review on the Villainy Ink line (of enamels). I got mine recently and I've been excited about the different ways I can play with it, but it'd be awesome to see what you think!
I finally did an oil wash for the first time, on my Ironclad Drake just a few days ago. Your vid gave me the push needed and i really enjoyed the process, and it looks good too
Glad I could help
Go vince…Hobbycheating best show on youtube🤙🏻
Love the oil videos. I'm just starting out with them, and compared to acrylics, there aren't many videos about the process out there. I don't enjoy 2hr videos packed with non sequiturs, so this is perfect 🤘
I was heavily referring to your past oil guides as i finished my SmashBash submission this week, glad I'll have a new one to reference for next time!
Thanks again for another wonderful video. You delivered one of the best oil tutorial yet. Really eased some fears I had to try them. Thanks again !
Glad it was helpful!
I've watched a lot of oil-wash videos, and I think you are the first person to talk about liquid's impact on acrylic paint, liquid of any type. Thanks for that. It was the explanation I needed for this tiny but quite integral point. So this one sat for around 90 minutes, does the amount of mineral spirits impact the drying time? I'm almost ready to assume the thinner the wash, the more mineral spirits used, the faster the drying time.
In general that is true, remember, the white spirits evaporate (dry), but the oil paints are a curing process, they react to time and heat.
Excellent tutorial on oil washes…haven’t use oil in quite while but you’ve give me some great ideas to work with. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This is great timing! Im literally JUST getting into oil washes, got the paints, the spirit, and some varnish. Can't wait to begin experimenting!
Great video and awesome tips, slowly getting the courage up to use oil wash Instead of the ready made washes. Thanks for posting.
You can do it!
How to use Oil wash and how to paint skull frame of Knights better, All I was looking for here in one Vid. Thank You!
Glad it helped!
literally just got an adeptus titanicus starter box and some oil paint supplies and planned to figure it out over this weekend. fortuna favet! the timing could not be more perfect, thank you vince!
Great for grimdark effects on minis, buildings and terrain. Regards Lexi
Great video vince as always. I need some advice here: I recently started a custom Mark 2 Horus Heresy White Scars army and I applied all the base colors and nice transitions (white armour, red shoulderpads) with an airbrush. Then, I applied decals with microset and microsol, sealed with varnish through airbrush, all nice and good. Next step is to get all the little recesses, bolts, etc. shaded so oil wash time, the plan after that is easy going again. I tried a dark grey and different black and brown mixes from Winsor & Newton, Abteilung 502 and already finished ones from AK such as starship wash. No matter how thin or thick I mix it and no matter if I apply no varnish, matte varnish or gloss varnish before the oilwash, it ALWAYS stains the white too much even after really removing all of it on the surfaces as good as I can (no matter if I let it dry first or not, also tried all kinds of mineral spirits and solvents) with q-tips and brushes. I just can't make it work to just get the recesses nice and dark and the surface as close to the original cold white as I can. I also tried just pinwash but it was basically the same result. I applied the same process with a 30k Death Guard army with awesome results so I am very surprised that cold white in contrast to bone color causes such an issue. Any ideas?
So cold whites like that use a large titanium pigment likely, so they are very matte and can trap pigment from the wash really easy, making it difficult to get completely clean. In effect, they are always going to be stained to some degree. You can minimize it some with a heavy gloss varnish, but there is always going to be some residual staining.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I will give it one more try with a bit more gloss varnish before! Since decals are already on and sealed and preassembly with red is already glued on that's gonna be it I guess 😀
Thank you for this information! I will be applying it soon.
"It doesn't owe you any money" made me laugh out loud :) Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
How much you thin it depends on your way of working with them.
I like to panel line things with them, so I want the wash thin enough to do the capillary action better, but still strong enough to show.
"It doesn't owe you any money" hahaha :D great vid as always Vince - Mike
thanks Mister, it is always a joy to watch your videos :)
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video. Tomorrow I'll try it the first time. Got everything ready. Hope it works.
You can do it!
Just got a small tube of brown and black to experiment with and this video drops!
I always hated the lengthy drying/curing time. I’m talking DAYS for a piece of terrain. However, you can pick up Liquin Impasto (gloss finish) or Oleo impasto to mix with the oils and cut down on their drying time and influence their finish.
I don’t know about white spirits interacting with acrylics, but I found out turpentine sure does! Make sure your brushes are completely dry after a turpentine cleaning.
Yeah. Turpentine removes paint and varnish. Not good for an oil wash
I’m about to attempt my first oil wash on my grey knights. I’m hoping that a blue wash will help kind of tint it and settle in the recesses but I can hopefully take it off on large flat sections so it keeps its shinyness
Yep, that should work.
Since there are so many opinions out there, I'd really like to get your take on any safety precautions of using odorless mineral spirits (well ventilated room, mask, gloves) and disposing of the materials (paper towels, q-tips) that come in contact with the spirits.
Good respirator, good venthilation, for the waste, you should have very little with miniature projects, so the trash is fine.
If I want to paint acrylics over the oil, how long do I need to wait? should I use a crap brush or safe to use sables?
I give it at least a day or two, then you're good to go. The wash will cure usually faster than that, but that is to be as safe as possible.
I've been having issues pinwashing armour panels. I'll drop it in watch it fill in all the lines, very satisfying. I'll go away and come back and the lines are all broken up. What was once a solid filled panelline is now looking like a squashed dalmatian with the white base coat showing through
The oil wash is too thin and breaking up.
Great video Vince loved it, just one question mate, advantages or disadvantages of enamel washes & do you use them, thanks
That's likely a whole video in itself, but the key is you can mix to taste and have more versatility with oils.
One new workfllw I hsve for army painting is
1zenithal
2 contrast
3 airbrush highlights
Oils wash
Makes amazing models
05:14 you mention that oil points cure with "light". I'm not a chemist (I dropped my chemistry major for physics) but isn't the oil medium just oxidizing? So air plays a pretty critical role in this. I don't see what role light has to play in this process.
What care do you need to have to paint with oils? I know I have to have good ventilation, but for example how long does the fume stay in the air and such? I have a little kid and I worry it might be bad for her if the thing stays up on the air for a very long time
Love it when you explain to wipe down and on the video you are going up :D you made my day :)
AK has a nice set of brushes for weathering
This video is exactly what I needed.
I really like to paint things like skin or NMM by oil paints. It takes time to learn how to mix your own colors but it definitely worth it. Even if curing time sometimes is insanely long.
I totally agree!
Hey Vince love the video, very informative. The only thing I would ask about is clean up brushes and metal mixing cups since it is probably not good to wash with water. So if you are using spirits to clean brushes and mixing cups, what do you do with the dirty or used spirits to dispose of them properly?
I just wipe them out and put them away. With brushes, normal brush soap or alcohol, since you are using synthetics.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
Thanks for the video! I will definitely try some oil paints on my iron warriors.
The video I needed, my experience with oils is them flowing out of recess to a lower point in the model - I'm now thinking this may be due to diluting the oil too much.
Yeah, with oils you can even make what some call a “gunk wash” where you’re just slathering oil paint all over the model and then just use a brush dampened with mineral spirits to remove most of it. It blends beautifully as well.
Hello, I have a few questions. Don't know if it is too expansive to cover in a comment.
I've been trying a little bit of oil washing, oil paint and AK like stuff, and I don't feel very confident about safely disposing of leftover wash and oil paint spills, cleanup and similar. I've watched some videos and googled, but it mostly covers it from the perspective of using canvas painting large amounts of oils and solvents etc.
So, the question is: what is a safe method to clean up after an oil wash session? What would you recommend or practice?
Thank you very much for all the wonderful HC vids, they help a lot!
You generally have so little, I wipe it up with a paper towel and then throw it away, you always want to use as little as possible so there isn’t much left over.
Thanks for the great insight. Oil washes are fantastic. They do some amazing things to terrain too. I've got two questions from the boring side of the hobby. Do you have any tips on cleaning brushes after using an oil wash and what do you do with the used mineral spirits when you are done?
I use so little, there isn't usually much left, but I just soak it up with a paper towel and throw it away.
Inspiring as always Vince.
When I paint my Night Lords, I bring my blue a bit lighter than I want. When I oil wash with Pjthalo blue mixed with black, I go all over. Even after wiping it away, the blue underneath has been darkened down and is more 'blue' than before. It was a happy accident on a test figure when figuring out a scheme I liked, but I've kept doing it because filtering with oils like that is so straightforward.
I love Payne's Grey for filtering blue. It's a dark blue-grey.
Great and helpful video! Will we get an oil paint Video list? You have so many videos so going through them and group them thematically would be super helpful... but also a lot of videos to go through 😅
Great idea!
Great video just stumbled upon it today. After watching the older one that you have done. In the older video you mention how you use washes to create effects on skin would you ever do an oil wash to achieve effects for skin?
Yep, though it's slightly different, I have a few videos in the playlist specifically on painting skin with oils, so check those out and you'll see the details. :)
Hey vince how would u show gold weathering on big vehicles? Maybe some verdigris to make it contrast?
Yep, you can also stipple dark brown or black as well lightly to create some pitting.
Hey Vince! LOVE your videos as they really have made getting into this hobby more accessible. This really makes me want to jump into oil washes. Quick Q: if doing the simple wash with these, should this be done after the miniature is pretty much complete (base, layers, highlights) AND/OR can it be done after base coats and before layering/highlights? Just trying to better understand what step would yield the best results.
Generally, after base coats, then let is cure and back to acryllics for highlights and such.
Have you tried mixing in some rust effects pigment to make the oil a bit gritty for corrosion, or would you recommend building that texture up on the model before the oil wash stage?
Yep, you absolutely can. :)
You used Gamblin oil paints in the video. Does oil paint quality make as much difference in oil paints as they do in acrylic paints? Should I pick up a couple of tubes of artist grade paint or a more introductory grade to start with? Or if I buy a few more, for what quality should I be looking?
I used Winton (from Winsor and Newton), these are the student stuff, artist grade can make it easier to wash and certainly can be more valuable if you're doing actual painting with oils. Abtelung also makes things good for washes.
I'd like to see a video about White Oil washes for plasma coils.
I like big blends and I cannot lie
Thank you sir. Your videos are the best!
Glad you like them!
Great video as usual. Do you need to wear a mask or something when mixing and applying these? How long do you ventilate your room afterwards?
Not really, as long as the room has some venthilation, you'll be fine, but don't work in a closed room. A respirator is good if you have sensitivity to the smells or your room isn't well vented. Otherwise, we need to have the room aired out afterwards.
@@VinceVenturella Got it. Thank you kindly, Vince.
Remember that colors other than black or brown can be employed to achieve various effects. Adding a bit of blue can make recesses colder. Green can give a mossy or verdigris effect. Purple on pale flesh can make it look more sickly.
So with mixing oil washes is it any easier to mix by starting with much less thinner working to incorporate everything and then adding more thinner and stirring a few more times? For example if you had started with only one to two pipits of thinner for your first wash of the video. I'm also curious if there are any good techniques for using something like a white spirit based enamel paint as the wetting agent for your brush when your streaking oils.
So as to the first, yes, if you're starting, you are right that is the way to build it up slowly. I haven't tried the enamel wetting agent, interesting idea
great and simple..amazing..thank you! :)
Great as ever cheers Vince.
I love oil washes. Tried Monument Hobbies Newsh recently. It's a pretty good acrylic approximation, but I actually lifted paint when I was wiping it off, particularly on certain edges. Maybe varnishing first in that case might be a good idea since it's acrylic medium?
Varnishing can stop that, less liquid can stop that, softer brushes or lighter touch can help.
Be Sir-Mix-A-Lot? That's a tall task. "I like thick paints and I cannot like, you other painters can't deny, when a tube of paint with that artist grade get squeezed I get sprung..."
Dear Vince, thank you for this vieo! Very informative, I have used this technique on my elves for T:OW with great success!
I wonder, should I varnish the metallics after the oil wash, or is it fine just keep it as it is? Its gaming models, so there will be some minor touching to the models (although they are magnetized and in movement trays). Would the oils go off?
Thanks for your amazing work and support to the community!
I don't ever varnish metals, once they have fully sured, you shouldn't have an issue.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince!
Is a roe-bit the distant cousin of a deckle? Just curious ;)... Love the channel.
Forgot if it was mentioned In the video but I'm wondering if you need ventilation/a respirator for using oil washes since my work room is also my bed room.
The white spirits you're using are a very small amount so you don't have to worry as much. Now that being said, it does off-gas and evaporate, you don't want to be breathing that. So do the wash, make sure the room is venting and then set the figure somewhere else to cure with better vent if possible.
Hello Vince, thank you for the tutorial!
I paint my minis with an airbrush, then I gloss varnish them with an airbrush and then I use oil washes.
Why some acrilic paint goes away when I remove oils with sponge/q-tips?
Varnish is only so durable, when you're getting something that wet, it can always risk pulling up paint, your best bet is either a second varnish layer, or you can work lighter, very light touch, very little white spirits.
@ Thank you Vince! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I use Turpenoid which is oderless and dries a little faster
Another helpful Vince Venturella video.
Just a small query, as I know you are a big fan of Monument hobbies paints. Have you tried the Newsh wash.
If you have, will you be doing a product review. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Sure have, you can find the video here - ruclips.net/video/vpFKvKTc5dE/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
@@VinceVenturella thank you. So many HC vids there’s probably loads I have overlooked. Btw it’s a good thing. This channel has answers for everything
Quick question about varnish, could you do an overall matte varnish, and then zenithal with a gloss varnish? Do you think this will give any advantage?
I don't think it would really have an advantage.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
Are the oil paints/washes safe to be used with the nicer acrylic paint brushes such as Kolinksy sables, or would you recommend sticking with synthetics? Also, are these the washes that are shown in a lot of "tiktok" videos that have them flow solely into the recesses?
Thanks for the great content!
Synthetics for these, and yep, this is them.
Another great and informative video, but one thing no one seems to mention is how long are you leaving between different techniques or layers? My main issue is that, for instance, I'll apply an overall oil wash as you have here, but when I go back later to do more localised staining or streaking, I pull the previous wash off. Am I being impatient? Do I need to wait several days rather than just overnight? Or am I doing something else wrong? Thanks.
I generally let it rest 24-48 hours, no issues then.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you 👍