Saved this video Vince, some times I get caught up in all the techniques when the basics are good for a reason. I am loving the new video quality mate, it makes it very enjoyable to watch.
i swear, i learn more from vince, sam, jon and scott than anyone else on youtube. im getting my buddy into the hobby, and these guys are the channels i recommended to him. we are planning our first painting session together soon and i cant wait.
Thank you Vince!! Showing how the violet glaze helped unite the layers is exactly the piece I was missing in my hobby. I totally get layering, albeit I’m not that great-but working on it. However, I wasn’t getting a uniform look at the end. My layers looked like camouflage! Seeing and hearing your explanation of bringing those colors together was exactly what i needed to understand that unity. Thanks again for your content!
@@VinceVenturella hey Vince do you have any suggestions on how to pick the glaze color? I know you said an “interference color” in the video but I’m not sure how to determine this. Any help would be much appreciated. Loving your videos thank you
Upped my game again Vince, articulated my rough sense of improving my layering into coherent approaches I'm now conscious of as I paint. will have this vid on repeat as I'm layering. Most of it was watching you paint and that was crystal sharp and perfectly framed, nice job with the camera
Vince, this is great! I liked what you did with the format. Talking head intro --> demonstration --> talking head --> demonstration --> talking head outro Breaking the tutorial up like that made it feel more engaging to watch in my opinion. I also appreciate the subtle zoom in/out throughout the clips. It's nothing overly obnoxious, but it's a nice improvement from your older format which were a bit more rigid. I respect your goal that you talked about in the new year video, this is a great direction you're taking the channel in. I've always considered your Hobby Cheating content to be top-tier in terms of quality information and explanation of concepts/techniques. However, other channels have an advantage in video style. I'm sure many viewers would consider a LukesAPS or Squidmar video more *entertaining* and *engaging* overall, but usually lesser in knowledge gained, compared to yours. I've found they mainly excel in: 1) Storytelling/video narrative 2) Presentation [cinematography, alternate camera angles, lighting, talking head, editing, etc] 3) Trending topics [Challenges, new sponsored products, etc] 4) Other [Skits, collabs, non-hobby vlogs, inviting thumbnails, etc] It's like they'll have a technique they want to cover, say, oil washes. > "[Intro skit] I've always been dissatisfied with GW washes, if only there was a way to erase the wash... That's when I discovered oils. [Talking head] bla bla... [Interspersed demonstration]... [24hour 6000points crayon-only challenge]...etc etc" Of course, I don't want you to become another Squidmar(no offence to the lad), I love what YOU do. I love that you have a recognisable thumbnail style. I love that your video titles are easy to find if I want to find the technique later. I love your knowledge of the hobby and teaching style. To conclude, you're a titan in the hobby youtube sphere in my mind. I like the direction you're going in with regard to production quality/ format adjustments. I hope these improvements help the channel reach a larger audience (who are missing out!). Don't stress too much about revamping every aspect of your videos too quickly. Hopefully over time you can automate or routinize into this more dynamic format direction. Thanks for everything that you do Vince, keep it up!
the common pure Green/Blue/Purple (PG7/PB15/PV23) are quite dark at full-streng,add some White,they become the common Green/Blue/Purple in our sense,so in general the dark Green/Blue/Purple have less coverage/contrast-ratio than brighter ones
I've only been painting for a week or two, but i've watched a couple of videos on painting techniques (probably too many ;P) but this is the first time i feel like i understand how i can approach layering. Especially the part at 6:37 about shapes was helpful. Thank you! :)
Great timing,I'm participating in my first painting competition this month and I'm just binging bunch of your videos which contain time consuming techniques I wouldn't normally use. This isn't one of those,but a detailed video about layering is super helpful.
Your advice on layering a light color (gaus blaster green, in this case) articulated what I found out when trying to highlight with a white plus original color mix. Thanks for that. Makes more sense now.
Video quality is much improved, to compliment the already awesome tutorial. It's always nice to revisit the approaches we take, even on basic techniques.
Great video Vince. I watch a lot of oil painting videos..like actual landscape paintings. Your language helps me apply what I learn there to my hobby. Very helpful. This time it was talking about painting shapes rather than things.
Wow! The video picture presentation is really getting so much better! Good for you and us. Whatever you are doing as far as settings, light, and editing is soooo much better. And yes The audio is continually improving. Oh ya!!!! And the content rocks!!! Lol
Great video, Vince. You probably also know this, but just in case - another part of the reason that water-based acrylics tend to get slightly darker, duller, and more translucent as they dry is that the acrylic binder has a milky white appearance when suspended in the water in the paint (think gloss varnish or Lahmian Medium). It becomes clear as the water evaporates and the binder links up and cures. So the colour of the wet paint is slightly lighter and more opaque than it will be when it dries.
Wow ! That's what I mean by "watching the painter's hand movements while he explains for 10 mins how he does his layering, with tips". I love that kind of content, plus layering is not the cool kid of topics so does not get a good video often. Quality content as always, but the change you talked about can be seen and felt, thank you ! (Ok, not ignoring the elephant in the room anymore : DAT RED NMM IS DOPE !)
I think the "shingles on the roof" analogy is the idea that just made all this layering stuff click in my head. Now to just keep that idea clicked until I get done with work and can try it out!
The idea of using a different color to integrate the layers and soften the brushstrokes immediately caught my attention. It's a bit like in digital illustration using a blend layer with a subtle tint to give the piece an overall subtle hue that helps unify the piece. Great topic!
Im still new to the hobby. My layering is awful mainly because i still havent gotten to grips with nailing the paint consistency. Whenever i have tried to add layers with a subtle transition, the brush strokes stand out like a sore thumb, i dont have anybody nearby who i could speak to about improving this so other than yours and other great youtube painters providing videos like this, i have been running solo. To the point where my miniatures are taking several days to finish one because its a constant battle of 2 steps forwards 1.5 steps back. Im glad i paint because i enjoy it, because it will likely take me well into my 40s before i had an army ready to play with.
My challenge to you would be to paint within a set time limit. Force yourself to paint a mini in 2 hours or 4 hours or something similar. FOrce yourself to work fast on something. Working that speed muscle can be great practice to gain confidence and work on building your brush control. BUt either way, don't worry, it's going to happen with time.
Holy smokes that was an outstanding tutorial! Your Hobby Cheating videos are a real inspiration to push my painting limits and try new techniques. Thanks so much Vince!!!
Freaking excellent, Vince. Audio transitions are smooth as silk! No need to hover over the volume button while listening and some of the best knowledge transfer in the business. Movin on up!
Hey Vince, I'm only just starting out, have only painted four (types of) mini's so far. Your video's are really amazing for learning the basics, especially the longer explanations on layering, dry brushing etc. I feel very encouraged to go and try more techniques. I'm hoping to try some wet blending soon as well. Anyways, thanks so much for making these! Greeting from the Netherlands.
Loved the music transition! Not only did it make me laugh but since it was in the middlish of the video it also reinvigorated my focus onto the video 🙌🏻 Keep up the great work
DAMN Vince!!!! I feel like I learned so much from this video that I'm excited to try out, and on top of that I feel like you really upped your production quality with this vid, (is that a new mic? sounds great!) awesome work!!!!
Thank you Dana, that is really appreciated, I'm trying, though I still have a ways to go to equal your video quality. So glad this was helpful as well. All the best :)
Great tips here Vince! use to make that mistake about reducing the layer all the time, either too much (looks like a bad edge highlight) or too little (no transition). Jose Da Vinci has a good rule of thumb with reducing layers to 70% of the previous layer, and then a glaze of that colour between the layers to join them. Found it was a fast way to get quick smooth layers
@@VinceVenturella forgot to say I also found switching to a wet palette for adding a little of the previous colour to the next was really a must for getting good layers. Do you find Vince that you prefer layering with a brush or airbrush?
Hey Vince, I've noticed that the audio volumes are becoming more consistent between the Vlog style sections of your videos and the painting sections. Just wanted to let you know that your efforts are paying off. Thanks for the video!
Your videos are brilliant and of such a great value. Thank you for sharing your painting skills.I want to become a great painter and your videos should help me accomplish my goals. Much respect!
Thanks for all you do Vince I love Scott and Jon's videos but when I sit and paint after there's I feel like ill never be able to do what they do but something about the way you do your videos really help me get past that
Opening intro sound was better in this video! I liked the reference to “coates” Love the video! I can honestly say that I learn something new in each of your videos! (No pressure 😜😝🤪)
I have it on good authority that all you need to do is dip your brush straight into a GW pot, preferably past the heel and into the ferrule, then mush it onto the model. Bonus points if you use unthinned 'base' paints only.
Great video, lots of great tips! Thanks for the extra extra work you're putting into the video creation side! Noticeable quality increase! Was already using a lot of your videos for references and learning
I've been miniature painting for about a month and a half, and I have no prior painting experience at all. I am not a very artistic person in terms of drawing, painting, coloring, etc. I appreciate this video. I just need to learn how to blend colors to make darker and lighter shades, the concept is simple, but I always seem to go too dark or too light.
You can do it! I have a whole beginner playlist so be sure to check that out as it covers lots of the critical things to learn on your hobby journey and I'm always happy to help. :)
water-based acrylic like vallejo are "Oil in Water",light reflect on the interface,so when they're wet, they are "white" /// when they are dry,the "Oil" bond together,no interface, thus turn transparent
Great video, i like that you speak more in front of the camera now. Covering more than i think i need to, is something i know i have to do but still often don't do. I guess it's something i have to learn to force me to do. Btw, i love vmc blue green, i use it for the robes of my skaven. Just wanted to say it.
Thank you Vince for putting. Out these great videos they're very helpful. I'm point my friends who are gamers and want to learn how to paint their gaming figures. Right now they use the figures unpainted, i told them that's pretty sad considering how beautiful newer gaming figures are.
Steppin up your game sir... great content once again and this is a great walk back to stuff I dont, but should be thinking about while Im slappin da paint. Thanks VV
Hi Vince! Absolutely love your videos! You are so good at this. One question please, why didn’t you zenithal coat this mini before starting? And then follow up with wash and dry brush (preparing for your best paint job)? Just curious. Thank you!!
I wanted to keep it as simple as possible, not everone might zenithal or take all those steps, so I really wanted to focus on the simple. Also, these are largely in NMM, so they don't get zenithaled because it's the incorrect lighting scheme.
I loved the guility smile at the "layers" pun. As always, the timing of this video is almost preternatural, as I'm doing some ork skin with more layering than I ever tried.
I’ve been trying to use Citadel’s paint system to paint 40K figures. A lot of their old Duncan Rhodes videos show the standard use of their Base/Wash/Layer paints. I never see him mixing for smooth gradients. Is there a special way to apply the layer paints (especially to muscles) that allows that smooth gradient? Are those GW videos not showing a step 🤷🏻♂️.
Sadly, with layers alone, there is not a way to get it completely smooth, acrylic paint is made for durability and quick drying, not blending. So there is always going to be glazing and other items at the end to get things completely smooth. So the playlists have lots of videos about these techiques and understanding them as you move along. Always happy to help. :)
Terrific video Vince. Super helpful information as always. I was wondering if a zenithal highlight before starting with the basecoat could be helpful in any way or that's only really meaningful in combination with very thin paints (aka contrasts) as basecoat? Thank you! Also I noticed you don't use shades after your first basecoat and I would like to understand the reasoning, is it because you're starting from a dark layer which basically acts as your shade?
Thanks for your advices Master Vince ! Is it possible to see a bigger zoom on your brush next time? I wish I had seen the jumps between layers and the push/pull paint on the mini for a better understanding :-) For a beginner like me, it's still a mystery to see how contrast appears !
Vince, you’ve answered my questions in the past, so I thought I’d reach out again. I’m learning how to layer, and was initially looking to layer up (shadows to highlights). I’ve seen a few artists that instead start with the mid tone, do the shadows, then the highlights. For a newbie, is one method better than the other?
It can actually vary a lot (and vary by material). As with all things, there is no one answer. So with something like a matte cloak, if its mostly red, you can do the mid-tone first (assuming you can get the mid-tone to work on the base layer without being too transparent), and then shade 20% and highlight 20% and boom, 60% of that was done with one layer, no need to retouch. Now, on the other hand, sometimes with skin, it can be beneficial to build up and establish those rich layers to produce the depth. That being said, there are people who start in the middle with that too. So my advice is experiement with which one works for you and your goals.
I'd love to see a video on surface tension. It's one of the harder concepts I've found to understand when using really thin paint. You might have already covered it in a previous video.
So Surfactant or Flow Improver can really help you break up surface tension, but I cover it in detail in this video - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html
A bit unrelated question, do you know what can be used as a defoaming agent in acrylic paint? Sometimes when I make watered down mixes with different additives and mediums I get a lot of bubbles especially over heavily textured surfaces.
isopropyl alcohol. when you ad a little of it to your paint the bubbles will pop immediately. I use thinner I make myself from 50: iso, 50: distilled water and a few drops of glycol.
U mention feathering, wetblend, and glazing as alternates... what typically helps u decide which to go for vs the other? Time, size/shape of volume, desired look? Curious to see same model, different technique to see end result differences. Thanks as always!
At this point, it's sort of an intuitive thing, but generally, just the area, the texture, the shape, the colors and what my goals are with the piece overall. I just throw everything at it generally and see what sticks, but there is definitely a video here.
It's exploration more than anything, for example, in that case, I could have used a more middle green and that could work as well, a deep red (which would turn purple) could work. Just experiment and you can find some cool combinations.
If I’m attempting to layer a lighter color like, say, Fanatics Brainmatter Beige over a Speedpaint base coat, how do I avoid the chalky texture of the layer paint? I’ve been thinning it on my wet pallet to let some of the base coat show through but I’m guessing that I’m thinning it too much. Thoughts?
The whites are going to get chalk when you're spreading them over a mid-tone color. You can use colors infused with a hue (ice yellows and so on). You can glaze the darker color back over the top after to hide it (a very thin glaze).
Great as always. I have to say that compared to your videos back in the day, the visual quality of your recent ones is so good, you can see every important detail (helps to illustrate the techniques) : ). What kind of camera do you use to record that, if I may ask ?
Quick question - When you discuss the lightest part (painted with the lightest paints) should be at the top of the given surface - I assume you are implying that the light source is above the miniature?
Beautiful video Vince! One possible improvement, when you are recording to camera you could use more light on you. Aldo, push your voice over mic a little closer. I love the edits and the voice over. Also that sexy music made me think of the moist, creamy, uncontrolled sexiness that is Trapped Under Plastic. Love the commitment to your New Year's resolution!
Great video Vince! I have a question regarding this technique. On your amazing example in this video (or on great painters like Sergio Calvo or Angel Giraldez) it feels that it's the best technique to achieve great realism and contrast...but its' always applied on black primer, to get that nice full black to white range. But as you are a big advocate of cenital priming, it's surprising to see you use it like that too. When i see your other videos and paintjobs, or guys like Marco Frisoni, i see that it's possible to achieve top tier paintjobs with cenitalk priming too. So basically i see those two painting styles. Black priming, deliberate layering, to slowly achieve the best possible result... or the use of cenital priming with other techniques, like oil washes/black lining to get that contrast back. This feels more fun, quicker, but at the same time i feel that i have less control and no matter the time i spent, i'll never be able to achieve the best of the best results that i could get with layering over black primer. What are your thoughts on this? Is just me seeing this two completely different approachs for different goals? Or is there any way to reconcile these methods?
Both have strengths and weaknesses, the key is the light, what you are trying to accomplish. In this case, the armor has a light pattern that a zenithal won't support, so I'm working over black. You can create the highest quality product out of either, but one might support your goals better.
Hello Mr. Venturella, thx for your great vids. Beginner here. I watched your video about painting tissue. I wanna begin an army of Idoneth Deepkin & I wished to have a wet aspect on my cloak (as they are supposed to come from water). How would you do that ?
So here is my honest answer, don't do it. :) - It's a very difficult effect to sell, Wet things, especially cloth, are darker and have a shine. This is difficult to accomplish when you are just starting out as it also relies on placing everything in the right place. If you're feeling like you still want to try it, then you need an organic creeping area of wetness with a soak line in the cloak (the difference between the wet bottom and the dry top), then you need to satin varnish the "wet" area to do the reflection (the proper way would be to place the highlight, but that is going to be near impossible if newer).
Thanks for the video as always Vince! It looks and sounds great. I know this is not at all the point of the video, but I was distracted by how gorgeous that violet looked! Would you mind telling me what that paint was?
Two reasons, first, I wanted to show the full layering process in simplest form. The second thing is with these models they have a complicated NMM light pattern that isn’t a basic diffuse overall lighting (which is what Zenithal is capturing)
So I have a question that doesn't necessarily apply to this video. I'm getting ready to start my first airbrush project and it's a large model. So how would you suggest I mix the paint for the model since I don't have the specific color I want. I want to make sure I keep it a consistent color
It’s more controlled, but very similar. I have some videos on glazing on the channel, so check those out as well. But glad to have you along on the hobby journey!
Hi Vince. What is the difference between a Golden’s heavy bodied bold titanium white and say a ProAcrly Bold titanium white. The ProAcrly is in a liquid form while the Golden is more of a paste. Is it pigment count or something else? Just a preference?
The HBA is the super pigment rich paint, as it's HBA, you can also feather much easier without chalkiness. That being said, Pro Acryl is one of the few miniature paint lines with a white I truly love, it's a fine substitute.
I have some struggles with color theory. When you're selecting your shade color to bring everything together is it usually an adjacent color on the color wheel, or is that just particular to this case?
It can be lots of colors, in this case, the purple works with the overall scheme, but you're looking for a dark color, not currently in that area that will work with the overall scheme.
Is that a better camera for the mini shots I see? Or just a newly learned focus? Because the mini is so much more sharper! Also would be nice to mention that this ties into undershading...effectively you are creating a very tasteful blend between your paint and the undershaded colour :)
"Your models are like onions"
"They have layers?"
"No, they're so good, they make me cry"
How did I miss this.
Saved this video Vince, some times I get caught up in all the techniques when the basics are good for a reason. I am loving the new video quality mate, it makes it very enjoyable to watch.
Excellent, working on the improvement for sure. :)
i swear, i learn more from vince, sam, jon and scott than anyone else on youtube. im getting my buddy into the hobby, and these guys are the channels i recommended to him. we are planning our first painting session together soon and i cant wait.
Thank you, that is wonderful to hear. :)
Don't forget Sergio, Angel, and Marco.
The quality of the content is as great as always, but the way it’s shot and edited is spectacular!
Thank you. :)
As usual stunning work by Vince V
Thank you Vince!! Showing how the violet glaze helped unite the layers is exactly the piece I was missing in my hobby. I totally get layering, albeit I’m not that great-but working on it. However, I wasn’t getting a uniform look at the end. My layers looked like camouflage! Seeing and hearing your explanation of bringing those colors together was exactly what i needed to understand that unity. Thanks again for your content!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella hey Vince do you have any suggestions on how to pick the glaze color? I know you said an “interference color” in the video but I’m not sure how to determine this. Any help would be much appreciated. Loving your videos thank you
@@loden5677 a haf step away is usually good, something adjacent that contains some of that color and another (like purple here to blue).
Upped my game again Vince, articulated my rough sense of improving my layering into coherent approaches I'm now conscious of as I paint. will have this vid on repeat as I'm layering.
Most of it was watching you paint and that was crystal sharp and perfectly framed, nice job with the camera
Thank you, working to improve for sure.
This is a fantastic guide. I actually feel like I understand how to do it better. Thank you
Glad you found it helpful!
Vince, this is great!
I liked what you did with the format.
Talking head intro --> demonstration --> talking head --> demonstration --> talking head outro
Breaking the tutorial up like that made it feel more engaging to watch in my opinion.
I also appreciate the subtle zoom in/out throughout the clips. It's nothing overly obnoxious, but it's a nice improvement from your older format which were a bit more rigid.
I respect your goal that you talked about in the new year video, this is a great direction you're taking the channel in.
I've always considered your Hobby Cheating content to be top-tier in terms of quality information and explanation of concepts/techniques. However, other channels have an advantage in video style. I'm sure many viewers would consider a LukesAPS or Squidmar video more *entertaining* and *engaging* overall, but usually lesser in knowledge gained, compared to yours.
I've found they mainly excel in:
1) Storytelling/video narrative
2) Presentation [cinematography, alternate camera angles, lighting, talking head, editing, etc]
3) Trending topics [Challenges, new sponsored products, etc]
4) Other [Skits, collabs, non-hobby vlogs, inviting thumbnails, etc]
It's like they'll have a technique they want to cover, say, oil washes. > "[Intro skit] I've always been dissatisfied with GW washes, if only there was a way to erase the wash... That's when I discovered oils. [Talking head] bla bla... [Interspersed demonstration]... [24hour 6000points crayon-only challenge]...etc etc"
Of course, I don't want you to become another Squidmar(no offence to the lad), I love what YOU do. I love that you have a recognisable thumbnail style. I love that your video titles are easy to find if I want to find the technique later. I love your knowledge of the hobby and teaching style.
To conclude, you're a titan in the hobby youtube sphere in my mind. I like the direction you're going in with regard to production quality/ format adjustments.
I hope these improvements help the channel reach a larger audience (who are missing out!).
Don't stress too much about revamping every aspect of your videos too quickly. Hopefully over time you can automate or routinize into this more dynamic format direction.
Thanks for everything that you do Vince, keep it up!
Appreciated on all counts. I will never be them, but I do want to make the highest quality tutorials I can in my own style. :)
Loved that this had the steps , talked through the theory, and showed the technique!
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
the common pure Green/Blue/Purple (PG7/PB15/PV23) are quite dark at full-streng,add some White,they become the common Green/Blue/Purple in our sense,so in general the dark Green/Blue/Purple have less coverage/contrast-ratio than brighter ones
There you go.
I've only been painting for a week or two, but i've watched a couple of videos on painting techniques (probably too many ;P) but this is the first time i feel like i understand how i can approach layering. Especially the part at 6:37 about shapes was helpful. Thank you! :)
Awesome, happy to help, I have many beginner focused videos, so hopefully you find more instructions.
Great timing,I'm participating in my first painting competition this month and I'm just binging bunch of your videos which contain time consuming techniques I wouldn't normally use.
This isn't one of those,but a detailed video about layering is super helpful.
Awesome, my goal is always to help at all levels. :)
Your advice on layering a light color (gaus blaster green, in this case) articulated what I found out when trying to highlight with a white plus original color mix. Thanks for that. Makes more sense now.
Video quality is much improved, to compliment the already awesome tutorial. It's always nice to revisit the approaches we take, even on basic techniques.
Thank you, working on improvement this year for sure. :)
Great video Vince. I watch a lot of oil painting videos..like actual landscape paintings. Your language helps me apply what I learn there to my hobby. Very helpful. This time it was talking about painting shapes rather than things.
Great to hear!
Wow! The video picture presentation is really getting so much better! Good for you and us. Whatever you are doing as far as settings, light, and editing is soooo much better. And yes The audio is continually improving. Oh ya!!!! And the content rocks!!! Lol
Thank you on all counts. :)
The subtle slow zoom in and out added a nice je me sais quoi to the video. The fig came out great!
Thank you. :)
Great video Vince. I like the cuts between painting the mini and the pieces delivered directly to camera. The camera quality is primo too.
Thanks 👍 - The road to improvement continues.
Great video, Vince. You probably also know this, but just in case - another part of the reason that water-based acrylics tend to get slightly darker, duller, and more translucent as they dry is that the acrylic binder has a milky white appearance when suspended in the water in the paint (think gloss varnish or Lahmian Medium). It becomes clear as the water evaporates and the binder links up and cures. So the colour of the wet paint is slightly lighter and more opaque than it will be when it dries.
Absolutely right. :)
Wow ! That's what I mean by "watching the painter's hand movements while he explains for 10 mins how he does his layering, with tips". I love that kind of content, plus layering is not the cool kid of topics so does not get a good video often. Quality content as always, but the change you talked about can be seen and felt, thank you !
(Ok, not ignoring the elephant in the room anymore : DAT RED NMM IS DOPE !)
Thank you on all accounts. :)
Your videos are an absolute godsend and I can’t believe I somehow only found your channel recently after years of Warhammer (though very little AOS).
Welcome aboard! Glad to help!
I think the "shingles on the roof" analogy is the idea that just made all this layering stuff click in my head. Now to just keep that idea clicked until I get done with work and can try it out!
Excellent!
You really have the best painting tutorials on RUclips Vince, thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
You are very welcome always happy to help.
Another fantastic tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to create the educational content. You continue to help me grow as a model painter.
Glad to help!
The idea of using a different color to integrate the layers and soften the brushstrokes immediately caught my attention. It's a bit like in digital illustration using a blend layer with a subtle tint to give the piece an overall subtle hue that helps unify the piece. Great topic!
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
Im still new to the hobby. My layering is awful mainly because i still havent gotten to grips with nailing the paint consistency. Whenever i have tried to add layers with a subtle transition, the brush strokes stand out like a sore thumb, i dont have anybody nearby who i could speak to about improving this so other than yours and other great youtube painters providing videos like this, i have been running solo. To the point where my miniatures are taking several days to finish one because its a constant battle of 2 steps forwards 1.5 steps back. Im glad i paint because i enjoy it, because it will likely take me well into my 40s before i had an army ready to play with.
My challenge to you would be to paint within a set time limit. Force yourself to paint a mini in 2 hours or 4 hours or something similar. FOrce yourself to work fast on something. Working that speed muscle can be great practice to gain confidence and work on building your brush control. BUt either way, don't worry, it's going to happen with time.
@@VinceVenturella I'll prime a couple tomorrow and give it a shot! Thanks Vince :)
Holy smokes that was an outstanding tutorial! Your Hobby Cheating videos are a real inspiration to push my painting limits and try new techniques. Thanks so much Vince!!!
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
Freaking excellent, Vince. Audio transitions are smooth as silk! No need to hover over the volume button while listening and some of the best knowledge transfer in the business. Movin on up!
Still a good distance to go, but I'm working on it. :)
The video production looks great. Can see you're learning heaps already this year. Good job.
Thanks!
Hey Vince, I'm only just starting out, have only painted four (types of) mini's so far. Your video's are really amazing for learning the basics, especially the longer explanations on layering, dry brushing etc. I feel very encouraged to go and try more techniques. I'm hoping to try some wet blending soon as well. Anyways, thanks so much for making these! Greeting from the Netherlands.
Awesome, thank you!
Loved the music transition! Not only did it make me laugh but since it was in the middlish of the video it also reinvigorated my focus onto the video 🙌🏻 Keep up the great work
Awesome. :)
As stated below, the videography is excellent! Very well made, and great content. LOVED IT.
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
Thanks Vince, found you on a video with Trovaron. No one has explained it like that before. Now I think I really understand it now. Again thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Trovarion is awesome and happy to have you along on the hobby journey.
DAMN Vince!!!! I feel like I learned so much from this video that I'm excited to try out, and on top of that I feel like you really upped your production quality with this vid, (is that a new mic? sounds great!) awesome work!!!!
Thank you Dana, that is really appreciated, I'm trying, though I still have a ways to go to equal your video quality. So glad this was helpful as well. All the best :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince! That's kind of you to say :) all the best to you too happy new year!!!!
Great tips here Vince! use to make that mistake about reducing the layer all the time, either too much (looks like a bad edge highlight) or too little (no transition).
Jose Da Vinci has a good rule of thumb with reducing layers to 70% of the previous layer, and then a glaze of that colour between the layers to join them. Found it was a fast way to get quick smooth layers
Glad it was helpful! and I think that's a great rule of thimb. :)
@@VinceVenturella forgot to say I also found switching to a wet palette for adding a little of the previous colour to the next was really a must for getting good layers.
Do you find Vince that you prefer layering with a brush or airbrush?
@@jakessofa8187 Both are good, depends on the surface area and the project.
Wonderful tutorial…thanks so much for taking the time to provide all the hints and tips!
Glad it was helpful! :)
The video quality on this one is super good, really crisp.
We're trying to improve this year for sure. :)
Great video vince! Love the new format! All the best for 2022
Thanks so much!
Hey Vince, I've noticed that the audio volumes are becoming more consistent between the Vlog style sections of your videos and the painting sections. Just wanted to let you know that your efforts are paying off. Thanks for the video!
Awesome, still working for sure.
Back to classic topics. Love it! Thanks Vince 😊
Thank you. :)
Video quality is immense now. Loving it.
Working on it, still a long way to go. :)
@@VinceVenturella keep up the great work
Great stuff Vince! I'll need to watch this one a few times.
Glad it was helpful :)
Vince, I find myself just hitting the 👍 button before I even get into the video because I know it will be good. Has become a reflex, thanks as always!
I appreciate that, glad it's helpful. :)
Your videos are brilliant and of such a great value. Thank you for sharing your painting skills.I want to become a great painter and your videos should help me accomplish my goals. Much respect!
Thank you so much 😀
Immediately dropped a like for the pun at the beginning.
Well done.
Thank you, my goal is always to have puns when possible. :)
Thanks for all you do Vince I love Scott and Jon's videos but when I sit and paint after there's I feel like ill never be able to do what they do but something about the way you do your videos really help me get past that
That's wonderful to hear and you can absolutely do this. :)
Love your new and much improved production quality.
Glad to hear it! The journey continues!
*Clicks on the video* BOOOOM!!! Super quality! NICE!
Thank you, working on it for sure.
Great and well explained tutorial, like the production quality bump
Thank you. :)
Opening intro sound was better in this video! I liked the reference to “coates”
Love the video! I can honestly say that I learn something new in each of your videos!
(No pressure 😜😝🤪)
I'll keep trying to always include at least one super secret top tip. ;)
I have it on good authority that all you need to do is dip your brush straight into a GW pot, preferably past the heel and into the ferrule, then mush it onto the model. Bonus points if you use unthinned 'base' paints only.
Seems solid to me. ;)
Great video, lots of great tips! Thanks for the extra extra work you're putting into the video creation side! Noticeable quality increase! Was already using a lot of your videos for references and learning
Glad it was helpful!
Huge track at the end ! Thx Vince !😊
Great video and the sound levels seem better, didn't have to increase my volume to hear you well
Excellent. :)
I've been miniature painting for about a month and a half, and I have no prior painting experience at all. I am not a very artistic person in terms of drawing, painting, coloring, etc. I appreciate this video.
I just need to learn how to blend colors to make darker and lighter shades, the concept is simple, but I always seem to go too dark or too light.
You can do it! I have a whole beginner playlist so be sure to check that out as it covers lots of the critical things to learn on your hobby journey and I'm always happy to help. :)
great production value! And great tutorial as always. Cant wait to see the entire army
We're getting there. :)
water-based acrylic like vallejo are "Oil in Water",light reflect on the interface,so when they're wet, they are "white" /// when they are dry,the "Oil" bond together,no interface, thus turn transparent
Correct, (assuming you're using oil as a metaphor :) )
Great video, i like that you speak more in front of the camera now.
Covering more than i think i need to, is something i know i have to do but still often don't do. I guess it's something i have to learn to force me to do.
Btw, i love vmc blue green, i use it for the robes of my skaven. Just wanted to say it.
Glad it was helpful.
Sharp video quality! And great content, per usual. Cheers!
Much appreciated!
This is great! I got into the hobby not to long ago and I found this super helpful.
Wonderful to hear. :)
Thanks Vince! As always your channel is a treasure trove of hobby tricks. )
Glad you enjoy it!
Glazing in the end with a different color sounds as a great idea. Until now I always had used one of the darker layer colors.
It really adds a richness to the overall scheme.
Thank you Vince for putting. Out these great videos they're very helpful. I'm point my friends who are gamers and want to learn how to paint their gaming figures. Right now they use the figures unpainted, i told them that's pretty sad considering how beautiful newer gaming figures are.
Glad to help!
Steppin up your game sir... great content once again and this is a great walk back to stuff I dont, but should be thinking about while Im slappin da paint. Thanks VV
Always happy to help.
Hi Vince! Absolutely love your videos! You are so good at this. One question please, why didn’t you zenithal coat this mini before starting? And then follow up with wash and dry brush (preparing for your best paint job)? Just curious. Thank you!!
I wanted to keep it as simple as possible, not everone might zenithal or take all those steps, so I really wanted to focus on the simple. Also, these are largely in NMM, so they don't get zenithaled because it's the incorrect lighting scheme.
I loved the guility smile at the "layers" pun. As always, the timing of this video is almost preternatural, as I'm doing some ork skin with more layering than I ever tried.
Wonderful on both counts.
thanks! is there a vid explaining how did you paint the metal silver parts?
So those are all NMM, I have several videos in the playlist on Steel NMM for sure. :)
thanks :)@@VinceVenturella
Terrifically useful video Vince! Learnt a LOT!
Glad it was helpful!
The amount of work you are putting into this army is inspirational
Thank you, I really appreciate that.
Those models look incredible
I’ve been trying to use Citadel’s paint system to paint 40K figures. A lot of their old Duncan Rhodes videos show the standard use of their Base/Wash/Layer paints. I never see him mixing for smooth gradients. Is there a special way to apply the layer paints (especially to muscles) that allows that smooth gradient? Are those GW videos not showing a step 🤷🏻♂️.
Sadly, with layers alone, there is not a way to get it completely smooth, acrylic paint is made for durability and quick drying, not blending. So there is always going to be glazing and other items at the end to get things completely smooth. So the playlists have lots of videos about these techiques and understanding them as you move along. Always happy to help. :)
Terrific video Vince. Super helpful information as always. I was wondering if a zenithal highlight before starting with the basecoat could be helpful in any way or that's only really meaningful in combination with very thin paints (aka contrasts) as basecoat? Thank you! Also I noticed you don't use shades after your first basecoat and I would like to understand the reasoning, is it because you're starting from a dark layer which basically acts as your shade?
Yep, you could certainly do a zenithal first and it will help, because it will minimize the need to layer to get to the true color.
Thanks for your advices Master Vince ! Is it possible to see a bigger zoom on your brush next time? I wish I had seen the jumps between layers and the push/pull paint on the mini for a better understanding :-) For a beginner like me, it's still a mystery to see how contrast appears !
Noted! I'll see what I can do.
Vince, you’ve answered my questions in the past, so I thought I’d reach out again. I’m learning how to layer, and was initially looking to layer up (shadows to highlights). I’ve seen a few artists that instead start with the mid tone, do the shadows, then the highlights. For a newbie, is one method better than the other?
It can actually vary a lot (and vary by material). As with all things, there is no one answer. So with something like a matte cloak, if its mostly red, you can do the mid-tone first (assuming you can get the mid-tone to work on the base layer without being too transparent), and then shade 20% and highlight 20% and boom, 60% of that was done with one layer, no need to retouch. Now, on the other hand, sometimes with skin, it can be beneficial to build up and establish those rich layers to produce the depth. That being said, there are people who start in the middle with that too. So my advice is experiement with which one works for you and your goals.
I'd love to see a video on surface tension. It's one of the harder concepts I've found to understand when using really thin paint. You might have already covered it in a previous video.
So Surfactant or Flow Improver can really help you break up surface tension, but I cover it in detail in this video - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html
A bit unrelated question, do you know what can be used as a defoaming agent in acrylic paint? Sometimes when I make watered down mixes with different additives and mediums I get a lot of bubbles especially over heavily textured surfaces.
isopropyl alcohol. when you ad a little of it to your paint the bubbles will pop immediately. I use thinner I make myself from 50: iso, 50: distilled water and a few drops of glycol.
Yep, the alcohol is the correct answer.
Thanks, it works like a dream
U mention feathering, wetblend, and glazing as alternates... what typically helps u decide which to go for vs the other? Time, size/shape of volume, desired look?
Curious to see same model, different technique to see end result differences. Thanks as always!
At this point, it's sort of an intuitive thing, but generally, just the area, the texture, the shape, the colors and what my goals are with the piece overall. I just throw everything at it generally and see what sticks, but there is definitely a video here.
How do you choose which interference color to use to help smoothing the transition?
It's exploration more than anything, for example, in that case, I could have used a more middle green and that could work as well, a deep red (which would turn purple) could work. Just experiment and you can find some cool combinations.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
If I’m attempting to layer a lighter color like, say, Fanatics Brainmatter Beige over a Speedpaint base coat, how do I avoid the chalky texture of the layer paint? I’ve been thinning it on my wet pallet to let some of the base coat show through but I’m guessing that I’m thinning it too much. Thoughts?
The whites are going to get chalk when you're spreading them over a mid-tone color. You can use colors infused with a hue (ice yellows and so on). You can glaze the darker color back over the top after to hide it (a very thin glaze).
Great as always. I have to say that compared to your videos back in the day, the visual quality of your recent ones is so good, you can see every important detail (helps to illustrate the techniques) : ). What kind of camera do you use to record that, if I may ask ?
I use a Canon Rebel T7i, but really, it's just me starting to learn how to use it. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you ☺️
Quick question - When you discuss the lightest part (painted with the lightest paints) should be at the top of the given surface - I assume you are implying that the light source is above the miniature?
Correct
Vincey V making it look easy again.
God tier content as always
I try :)
Beautiful video Vince!
One possible improvement, when you are recording to camera you could use more light on you. Aldo, push your voice over mic a little closer. I love the edits and the voice over. Also that sexy music made me think of the moist, creamy, uncontrolled sexiness that is Trapped Under Plastic.
Love the commitment to your New Year's resolution!
Apprecaite the feedback, I am going to continue pushing in the weeks and months to come. :)
@@VinceVenturella already a huge difference and I really appreciate it!
Great video Vince!
I have a question regarding this technique. On your amazing example in this video (or on great painters like Sergio Calvo or Angel Giraldez) it feels that it's the best technique to achieve great realism and contrast...but its' always applied on black primer, to get that nice full black to white range.
But as you are a big advocate of cenital priming, it's surprising to see you use it like that too. When i see your other videos and paintjobs, or guys like Marco Frisoni, i see that it's possible to achieve top tier paintjobs with cenitalk priming too.
So basically i see those two painting styles. Black priming, deliberate layering, to slowly achieve the best possible result...
or the use of cenital priming with other techniques, like oil washes/black lining to get that contrast back. This feels more fun, quicker, but at the same time i feel that i have less control and no matter the time i spent, i'll never be able to achieve the best of the best results that i could get with layering over black primer.
What are your thoughts on this? Is just me seeing this two completely different approachs for different goals? Or is there any way to reconcile these methods?
Both have strengths and weaknesses, the key is the light, what you are trying to accomplish. In this case, the armor has a light pattern that a zenithal won't support, so I'm working over black. You can create the highest quality product out of either, but one might support your goals better.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot for your answer! It's very helpfull. We really appreciate you dedicating your time to solve our questions.
Hello Mr. Venturella, thx for your great vids. Beginner here. I watched your video about painting tissue. I wanna begin an army of Idoneth Deepkin & I wished to have a wet aspect on my cloak (as they are supposed to come from water). How would you do that ?
So here is my honest answer, don't do it. :) - It's a very difficult effect to sell, Wet things, especially cloth, are darker and have a shine. This is difficult to accomplish when you are just starting out as it also relies on placing everything in the right place. If you're feeling like you still want to try it, then you need an organic creeping area of wetness with a soak line in the cloak (the difference between the wet bottom and the dry top), then you need to satin varnish the "wet" area to do the reflection (the proper way would be to place the highlight, but that is going to be near impossible if newer).
Am I seeing it correctly that you are using the same base color in for all the layers mixed with white in different shades?
Effectively yes.
Thanks for the video as always Vince! It looks and sounds great.
I know this is not at all the point of the video, but I was distracted by how gorgeous that violet looked! Would you mind telling me what that paint was?
Of course, this was Kimera Violet, wonderful color.
Hi Vince, can you explain why you didn't start with a zenithal highlight when you layered these paints? Thanks!
Two reasons, first, I wanted to show the full layering process in simplest form. The second thing is with these models they have a complicated NMM light pattern that isn’t a basic diffuse overall lighting (which is what Zenithal is capturing)
Nice one mate! Very helpful as always. 🍺
Glad to help
If you were painting HH world eaters would use a blue gray due to the main colors being blue and white? Thank
Yep, that's about right.
So I have a question that doesn't necessarily apply to this video. I'm getting ready to start my first airbrush project and it's a large model. So how would you suggest I mix the paint for the model since I don't have the specific color I want. I want to make sure I keep it a consistent color
I just generally measure by drops. As long as it's close, you'll end up with the same color or close enough no one will be able to tell.
Awesome video, great quality too.
Thank you,. working on it for sure.
Amazing video 😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
As usual amazing content really appreciate what you do man!
Glad you enjoy it!
What an awesome content Vince! Redditor referred me to your channel. So glad I watched it. Btw the final purple glaze, is that like a wash ?
It’s more controlled, but very similar. I have some videos on glazing on the channel, so check those out as well. But glad to have you along on the hobby journey!
Hi Vince. What is the difference between a Golden’s heavy bodied bold titanium white and say a ProAcrly Bold titanium white. The ProAcrly is in a liquid form while the Golden is more of a paste. Is it pigment count or something else? Just a preference?
The HBA is the super pigment rich paint, as it's HBA, you can also feather much easier without chalkiness. That being said, Pro Acryl is one of the few miniature paint lines with a white I truly love, it's a fine substitute.
Vincent is most definitely the Bob Ross of the miniature painting world 🤟
Thank you, that means a great deal. :)
I have some struggles with color theory. When you're selecting your shade color to bring everything together is it usually an adjacent color on the color wheel, or is that just particular to this case?
It can be lots of colors, in this case, the purple works with the overall scheme, but you're looking for a dark color, not currently in that area that will work with the overall scheme.
Hi Vince,
could you do a video about painting gems on banners and eldar equipment?
I did a gem video here if this will help - ruclips.net/video/qwONEnh_vhs/видео.html
Is that a better camera for the mini shots I see? Or just a newly learned focus? Because the mini is so much more sharper!
Also would be nice to mention that this ties into undershading...effectively you are creating a very tasteful blend between your paint and the undershaded colour :)
Same camera, it's just me learning how to use my tools. ;)