underrated comment -- interdental brushes are so useful they're part of Iwata's cleaning kit. I laughed when I saw I paid an arm and leg for items I could have picked off the shelves in Walmart.
After all these years, you still come out with great informative videos. You’ve done several airbrush vids but this one does a deep dive on the issues common to using the tool
One more trick, Vince, on the Harder and Steinbeck. If the nozzle's little white seal is bad it will cause backflow. Replacement is easiest, but a little Vaseline will get it by too. Great video for airbrush users that have past the beginner only mistakes time.
I was having load of backflow issues with my old H&S, replaced the seals and o-rings and it was like new. I make sure these are nice and clean every time I do a breakdown. Its also worth noting not to over tighten the nozzle cap part as this can damage the o-ring which leads to problems
I often take a very small cup and put the nozzle in water/airbrush cleaner let it sit for a few minutes- then swoosh it carefully around. Amazing the added stuff it pulls out after a careful cleaning much as you've detailed. Vaseline is also an old plumbers trick as well... Good video and my ongoing thanks for your Hobby Cheating series.
Filtering paint with filter cups is the main thing that has helped me avoid clogs and paint build up from chunks of dry and thick paint and I never hear anyone talk about using them. Also, I had no clue you could take the nozzle apart. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend! Thanks for all the great videos.
Filtering the paint has been a game changer for me I don't think I've had a clog when I've filtered the paint. If I don't filter and the primer/paint isn't brand new it happens to me frequently, so I consider filtering to be a time saver. I've never had to take the nozzle of my Eclipse apart, I just treat it like a single piece nozzle like the H&S has and haven't had any problems.
I take the plastic mesh out of those paper cone paint filters and put it between the cap and bottle on my primer bottles. It drastically reduces clogging when I am spraying primer.
My older vallejo primer and airbrush paints are the worst. My newer army painter paints and primer are better but we'll see how they hold up as they age. Living in dry old Colorado may also be part of the 'issue'. 😅
"Big Strong Man" checking in, I've had to repair carburetors because of too much strength behind a screwdriver tore out the threads. Fellow strong men be careful it's a lot easier to permanently damage the housing by accident.
I'll pile on. There is someone who works the shift before me, and I often have to run the same machines. I have had to smash indexable tooling inserts to remove stripped screws. You/we don't need to go King Kong, Gorilla-man when screwing something in. Unless there is a specifically stated spec, firm finger tight is golden.
Yh I'm with you on that I rebuilt a Stromberg carb , the brass is so much stronger than the carb metals it's easy to overtighten, same with many other nuts/bolts , snapped many a bolt trying to remove them because of rust too
Vision aid are some of those magnifiers that just personally works for me just throwing that out there for anyone. There are a ton of different options out there. Thanks Vince!
12:20 - A word of caution when screwing this part back in-it requires very little force to break it, as I learned the hard way! On my previous airbrush, I managed to snap the threading while trying to replace the piece. I tightened it until I felt the slightest resistance and, assuming it needed to be fully sealed, gave it just a little more pressure. Unfortunately, the piece snapped clean off, leaving its thread stuck in the airbrush.
This happened to me yesterday! Figured I'd ruined the airbrush but solved it by pushing the needle through the airbrush until it stopped, then gently twisted it while applying pressure, the thread came out as the needle moved slightly forward!
My Iwata has been bubbling and spitting and I've cleaned every inch of it EXCEPT the nozzle, I didn't even know it needed cleaned, I always just rinsed it. I know what I'm doing tomorrow! Thank you!
Great video with a lot of advice I currently knew. You just left one advice for the H&S airbrush: relatively often I have ti replace the needle sealing. For just some bugs (about 5-10$) you get all varieites of sealing rings. They usually do the trick to stop every kind of bubbling.
It doesn't matter how many airbrush maintenance videos you make, I will keep watching (& washing) them. I had always thought that my HP-CS 0.3 nozzle was pressure fit, not a screw fit - great learning moment. I've been a fan of the soft rubber interdental brushes for my nozzle cleaning (with isopropyl alcohol), and an ultrasonic machine afterwards. I also cry while I spray urethane-acrylic primers, I'm not sure if this helps prevent clogging but it makes me feel better. I haven't been able to find Mr Surfacer 1500 for over a year.
Thank you for the help, I'm having this problem for some time even after a deep clean. But people in the comments have advised about replacing the white seal in H&S so thank you too Vince fans
Thanks Vince for the no nonsense guide with nomenclature. I use a cheap 40$ airbrush just so I can set a few base layers and do simple highlights. But I find my equipment clogs regularly after long periods without use.
Great video. I'm happy to see I've adopted some of the same habits. Definitely a few new takeaways including the Vaseline use to create a better seal. Great warnings on tightening the nozzle, and a few others. Ive snapped a nozzle in half before.
my H&S can be over-tightened and leak air. I have found there is a sweet spot of pressure and just a reminder that these tools aren't strength test machines. I have always had a spare needle on hand and that has saved me so many times when little fingers have been a little rough with their learning of the painting tools.
Was watching this vid on an iPad and noticed at 10:09, during the needle cleaning, the video freezes up. The time is still advancing and sometimes there is the audio and sometimes not. This lasts somewhere til 10:30-10:40. Not sure if there is anything you can do to fix but thought you might like to know. Aside from that glitch loved the video and found it very helpful.
Excellent video. I love how you explain the information. You break it down easily to understand as well as said with a supportive voice. You cover all aspects that others glaze over or just leave out. Thank you for everything you do ❤
The brass nozzle fragility cannot be overstated. First time I was putting mine back together, I was going for a tool tight feel like I was used to on cars. Stripped WAY before I ever got there. Go for snug but not tight. I have since switched to H&S so it happens to be mostly a non issue, but still a good learning lesson.
My airbrush arrived today! What lucky timing for me. Thankyou Vince for continuing to provide some of the best educational content on RUclips (for free!) with miniatures.
Great timing, I gave an airbrush to a friend for Christmas and was directing him towards some airbrush resources to help him out with it. I'll add I have had good luck with the "interdental brushes" instead of the hard pipe cleaners. The bristles are softer so less likely to score the softer metals and oddly the construction seems to be sturdier. Plus if they do start to wear out they're pretty disposable. I also own an ultrasonic cleaner and for when I really can't figure out how I screwed up my airbrush (usually varnish or primer is the culprit) I huck it in there with some cleaning fluid and all the parts come out shiny again. Even the outside of my brush which is also usually dirty.
I don't think you mentioned this Vince but another thing that can cause backflow with the Harder and Steenbeck's nozzle is a defect in the little white PTFE seal that sits on the back of the nozzle. I had bubbling and backflow into a brand new Infinity and fixed it by replacing that little bit back there.
One warning to people who worry about dried paint inside the cup. Don’t soak your chrome parts in alkaline household cleaner like simple green. It will eat the chrome off. I have several paint cups that are missing the chrome on the inside because I left them soaking in Simple Green. Isopropyl alcohol won’t hurt it whatsoever even if you leave it in there for months.
Get yourself some tiny tooth brush picks they are awesome for cleaning up he nozzle along with the nozzle toCotton buds are also great for cleaning. With really stubborn paint I use Windsor and newton brush cleaner which takes anything off!
Something to watch for with the Iwata is to be careful not to cross thread the front cone when reinstalling it. I cross threaded mine and eventually had to give up trying to repair the brass threads and buy a new airbrush.
Right on time, an amazing video in time of need thanks Vince! I received an airbrush for christmas and after 2 sessions i was starting to get a little of backflow, I screwed off the nozzle and found a lot of gunk inside, little issue: the thread of the nozzle stayed inside the airbrush...😢 I've ordered a replacement set 😅
My problem with bubbling was degraded rubber seal at the tip of the nozzle. I'm quite surprised you didn't mention seals at all. Some new designs dropped the idea of screwed nozzles, sure, but even your iwata has some weird floating/screwed nozzle combo. Cheap models have equivalent of that big brass part integratet into the body, and just that tiny nozzle tip removable. So that thread there without any rubber seal (or with broken seal) is most likely the cause of bubbling. And you can't really brute force tighten it into submission without breaking that part. But now I wonder if some vaseline on the thread could've helped me, instead of buying whole o-ring set for my airbrush. Will test that next time I face that issue. Thx for the idea and keep those vids coming
Glad it's working for you, but most people (including the manufacturer) would highly advise against taking Iwata's self-centering/press-fit nozzle apart (disassembling the brass "housing" from the "tip"). That's just asking for another point of leakage. You are supposed to treat it just like the one in H&S, as a single part. If you absolutely must do this, then at least seal it back with thread sealer or beeswax. I've never had a blockage that would warrant this and couldn't be taken out with just dental brushes, even after spraying primers and varnishes. Love your videos, but this particular tip can backfire really easily, especially for new people.
Great video. I've been having back flow issues lately with my hp-cs, Cleaned and recleaned it. I'm going to try the Vaseline trick, because that looks like it could remedy the issue I'm having.
Amazing content! I have an issue with my airbrush, which it will not back flow no matter what I use to cover the front of it. It works fine for painting just doesn’t back flow. Its design is similar to the harder a steenbeck air brushes. Great content as always Vince.😀
You could try a pinch with a rubber glove. That being said, you can always just mix outside the cup and you're fine, and then when cleaning, just swish, dump, spray and so on.
Thanks for the tips! I've got a sticky trigger and an occasional air leak at the hose so I'm going to try another deep clean first and see if that helps.
I’m still using the same Iwata after almost 10 years of hobby. Same needle and everything. I’ve never separated the needle tip in my cleaning but I can see that would make things MUCH easier.
few things - you call also send your airbrush in to be serviced. Iwata is here in portland and they offer those service directly if you think your airbrush is broken. local airbrush suppliers usually offer this service too. I'd be curious about your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaners, I usually just drop my tips in one with simple green, scrape then we are off to the races. much less scraping and fiddling around.
Fun fact: My Grex XG airbrush (the company who is now providing the airbrushes for Monument Hobby) doesn't like the needle coming out the front at all. The knurling they use to indicate the needle size will actually wear down the packing seal over time if you try to pull it out the front. Happy hobbying!
Well, it’s not fixed, still some bubbles coming out. I just purchased the cleaning needle/pin and will clean better again. But can confirm that the magnifying glass trick works!!!
Ok, so the pin things came in. GAME CHANGING! cleaned out the nozzle - clean as a whistle… no more bubbles! I imagine this was causing most of my problems! Will be doing airbrushing tonight and see how it goes!
I had issue with my airbrush when backflowing paint, it would go to the trigger chamber. Had to replace the needle seal which was pretty much stuck due to the paint drying around it. After replacing it, I didnt really have any issues with clogging, Also using more heavy duty cleaners after the session, like tamiya airbrush cleaner helped a lot.
I have fought with my airbrush for years, changing tips and needles, cleaning it with the ultrasonic cleaner, and it seems that I get tons of blockages, spatters, and bubbles back through the cup (like on of those old bubble pipe kids' toys). I am afraid to use it for anything other than priming lest some spattering ruin the paint job to that point (not that I am such a great painter anyway...). Saving this one. Thanks.
Thank you! Was wondering if I would need new o-rings or a new nozzle since I couldnt figure out how to fix my random sputtering. When I tried your tip for cleaing the nozzle using the needed tool I think I removed half a bottle of primer from it. Hopefully that solves that problem!
I didn't know there was a specific nozzle cleaning tool. I always just shaved down a tooth pick and dipped it in isopropyl then scraped inside. Ive had my first eclipse since 2010 and even not being super careful, it hardly caused issues except for a sticky trigger. I replaced the trigger not too long ago, but recently it started clogging more frequently especially with Vallejo primer. I just got a new eclipse and the old one is now dedicated for primer.
Another cause of air leaks in Iwatas is the rubber seal at the front (which is the same as the one at the back) -- freakin' $7 for that tiny piece of rubber. I always have a spare needle and spare set of Nozzle parts and rubber gaskets for my Iwatas incase 1.) they stop making them and 2.) I need a replacement.
Vince, you're gonna hate me but... I remove the needle from the front 😆I started doing that when I had an Evolution, because my previous ultracheap airbrush had a nasty habit of making a mess in the airbrush handle when removing the needle from the back, as paint leftovers would travel to that part (the o-ring and the seal weren't very good). Being so OCD as I am, the mere idea of having dirt in a part which I could not see made me disassemble that seal frequently, damaging the o-ring in the end. With my Evolution, I never put a dirty needle to the back of the airbrush, and since thanks to the floating nozzle I could remove from the front, I started doing so. With my latest airbrush, a Gaahleri, I have the same kind of floating nozzle, so I still remove the needle from the front, even though I've checked that removing it from the back does not put any dirt (or at least, not much dirt) into the back of the airbrush body, the seal being very good. Still, old habits die hard, so I still remove it from the front most of the time. My OCD loves that 😆and well, it's not vital for me, I would not do that with an screwed nozzle, does not make any sense. I still love your videos, though 😆 No, seriously, GREAT video, and very useful as always, you're fantastic, thanks a lot for this video.
I don't hate you at all! If that works for you, then that is more than fine, I just don't want everyone coming after me for pulling it out the back of the brush, but either is fine. :)
@@VinceVenturella this is RUclips, SOMEONE is going to come after you no matter what 😆And yes, either is fine, depends on your airbrush brand and model, the state of the different pieces, etc. Removing from the front in the classical airbrush with screw-on nozzles is a big no-no in my humble opinion, you're calling for problems. So even in floating-nozzle airbrushes, having the habit of removing from the back is probably a better option to build good muscle memory if you ever have to go to a screw-on nozzle design. BTW it's incredible you are on hobby cheating video 483 and you STILL produce useful and funny videos. Your channel is just incredible.
I think the actual schnozzle is made of a softer tin alloy. It's soft so it can deform around the hardened steel needle and for a complete seal. I suspect a hardened steel schnoz would eventually wear down the needle. In engineering, we often bear a soft, slick material on a hard material.
The thing that caught me off guard was people pull the needle through the front ha! I have never seen that, or thought of that because the shaft is fit to the needle thus pulling it out and not wiggling it like a mad man, or dropping it is just fine. Even slotting it back in I go through the back, nice and slow gentle pressure. I haven't damaged a needle ever. Iwata, Sotar, H&S Ultra, Master, Gaahleri never ever have I damaged one...
For what its worth, i have never once disassembled my iwata nozzle into 2 parts... cant really think of anything it lets you do you wouldn't be able to do with it attached to the brass bit (well i skipped the pipecleaner step and just scrape it out with the needle tool directly) so you could consider that one if you dont wanna futz with tiny nozzle parts
If I'm not mistaken even the old HS aribrushes had a manual showing the needle being put out through the back. Plus I don't fell comfortable getting it through the front considering the notches at the end of HS needles.
But Vince, you said in your previous cleaning your airbrush video it wasn’t a sisyphean task 😉🤣❤️ Great video thanks. Always good to shed some light on the mysteries of the airbrush and how to keep it functioning well.
A wood toothpick works great instead of a metal needle. Another bonus is that the wood toothpick has zero chance of scratching the inside of the nozzle.
Not seeing the affiliate links for the airbrush supplies in the description. Also, the thing I got most from this is I need to get and use one of those Needle Wash tools. Also the Vaseline trick seems clever. Thanks for sharing!
If only this video was out 3 days ago. I just fumbled my way through cleaning my air brush after it got some insanely huge amalgamation of paint and primer clogged in it. Whats crazy is I clean it regularly too.
I had a problem with backflow in my Infinity caused by a leakage in the seal around the needle in the back of the main housing. There is a tiny slit for a tiny screwdriver that you can reach from the back to replace the seal.
You probably should not remove the tiny tip on the Iwata Eclipse nozzle. Just treat it as a single piece nozzle and clean it gently with the cleaning needle tool and airbrush cleaner. It's just too delicate and easy to break or strip the threads.
Great video once again! Will have to buy the nozzle cleaner for sure. I problem I recently had was a lot of dried up paint between the part of the airbrush between the trigger and the part where the cup meets the mainbody of the airbrush. Any clue on how this happens, how to clean it and how to prevent it?
It can happen with some airbrushes that aren't designed as tightly, the key is after each usage to really get in there with a tool, brush or little cleaning swab to get that paint out, some 99% iso alcohol can help.
Vince, I recently bought an Iwata HP-BH and I imagine it's very similar to your HP-CS. The HP-BH is having a couple problems: 1) The trigger is so stiff. I have cleaned it and lubricated it and it feels like I am fighting it when I want precision. Especially after coming from a reaper vex I cant figure out if this is just how its made but it feels so agonizing to use sometimes. 2) When consistently holding the trigger down and back for air and paint it will spray on and off a few seconds at a time. It is very inconsistent. My paint is thinned with flow improver and airbrush medium, spraying Pro-Acryl, cleaned very well as you have shown above. Thanks for your thoughts.
1) I haven't used that exact one, but you coulod always try gun oil lubricant. That is really a pretty powerful lubricant that is great for metal parts. 2) COuld the paint still be too thick? What size needle is it? If it's like a .2 or something small, you want to work really, really thin.
Great video Vince! I have a weird issue with my HS Ultra 2024 where there's a constant air leak from the front of the airbrush, it's like the trigger doesn't fully seal, I've tried multiple deep cleans, it was working fine up until recently, I don't think it's what's causing mine to clog (I think that's more of a skill issue), but it's annoying. If I pull the trigger up manually, it reduces the leak by a bit, but not completely.
I think I figured it out, I didn't realize you can take the air valve assembly apart (still relatively new at airbrushing). I took it apart, did a bit of a clean and put it back together, seems to be all good now.
This was interesting, thanks for sharing! What if you have that spluttering problem but with a brand new airbrush (literally first time using)? I can’t find any blockage at all and have ensured the drop in nozzle is fit properly and the screw tightened
Had to say, could be a defect in the brush, something cracked or ill-fitting. It's possible that something isn't seated quite right, it's possible an o-ring is bad, when these common items don't work, it's gets tricky to find the exact cause.
Those little dental fiber brushes work pretty well for cleaning too.
underrated comment -- interdental brushes are so useful they're part of Iwata's cleaning kit. I laughed when I saw I paid an arm and leg for items I could have picked off the shelves in Walmart.
After all these years, you still come out with great informative videos. You’ve done several airbrush vids but this one does a deep dive on the issues common to using the tool
Glad you found it useful!
One more trick, Vince, on the Harder and Steinbeck. If the nozzle's little white seal is bad it will cause backflow. Replacement is easiest, but a little Vaseline will get it by too. Great video for airbrush users that have past the beginner only mistakes time.
I was having load of backflow issues with my old H&S, replaced the seals and o-rings and it was like new. I make sure these are nice and clean every time I do a breakdown. Its also worth noting not to over tighten the nozzle cap part as this can damage the o-ring which leads to problems
I often take a very small cup and put the nozzle in water/airbrush cleaner let it sit for a few minutes- then swoosh it carefully around. Amazing the added stuff it pulls out after a careful cleaning much as you've detailed. Vaseline is also an old plumbers trick as well... Good video and my ongoing thanks for your Hobby Cheating series.
You have no idea how timely and helpful this video was to me. Thank you Vince!
Filtering paint with filter cups is the main thing that has helped me avoid clogs and paint build up from chunks of dry and thick paint and I never hear anyone talk about using them.
Also, I had no clue you could take the nozzle apart. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend!
Thanks for all the great videos.
I do the same, but only with primer, never had this issue with regular paint (although I think it could happen w/ older pots).
Filtering the paint has been a game changer for me I don't think I've had a clog when I've filtered the paint. If I don't filter and the primer/paint isn't brand new it happens to me frequently, so I consider filtering to be a time saver. I've never had to take the nozzle of my Eclipse apart, I just treat it like a single piece nozzle like the H&S has and haven't had any problems.
I take the plastic mesh out of those paper cone paint filters and put it between the cap and bottle on my primer bottles. It drastically reduces clogging when I am spraying primer.
My older vallejo primer and airbrush paints are the worst. My newer army painter paints and primer are better but we'll see how they hold up as they age. Living in dry old Colorado may also be part of the 'issue'. 😅
I've never even heard of a filter cup.
"Big Strong Man" checking in, I've had to repair carburetors because of too much strength behind a screwdriver tore out the threads. Fellow strong men be careful it's a lot easier to permanently damage the housing by accident.
I'll pile on. There is someone who works the shift before me, and I often have to run the same machines. I have had to smash indexable tooling inserts to remove stripped screws.
You/we don't need to go King Kong, Gorilla-man when screwing something in. Unless there is a specifically stated spec, firm finger tight is golden.
On the other hand, I once had bubbling in my airbrush because I didn't tighten the nozzle housing enough
Yh I'm with you on that I rebuilt a Stromberg carb , the brass is so much stronger than the carb metals it's easy to overtighten, same with many other nuts/bolts , snapped many a bolt trying to remove them because of rust too
I use interdental brushes for cleaning ,pipe cleaners and brushes can be worse as they leave hairs and fibre's in after the cleaning
Vision aid are some of those magnifiers that just personally works for me just throwing that out there for anyone. There are a ton of different options out there. Thanks Vince!
I have a Iwata and watched 100 cleaning videos and I've never seen anyone take the nozzle apart thanks Vince!!!
12:20 - A word of caution when screwing this part back in-it requires very little force to break it, as I learned the hard way! On my previous airbrush, I managed to snap the threading while trying to replace the piece. I tightened it until I felt the slightest resistance and, assuming it needed to be fully sealed, gave it just a little more pressure. Unfortunately, the piece snapped clean off, leaving its thread stuck in the airbrush.
I have managed to remove with a fine pointed file when this happened to me
This happened to me yesterday! Figured I'd ruined the airbrush but solved it by pushing the needle through the airbrush until it stopped, then gently twisted it while applying pressure, the thread came out as the needle moved slightly forward!
My Iwata has been bubbling and spitting and I've cleaned every inch of it EXCEPT the nozzle, I didn't even know it needed cleaned, I always just rinsed it.
I know what I'm doing tomorrow! Thank you!
Great advice! Super helpful. I still suck at airbrushing, but it's always reassuring to know that its a problem with me, not with the tool.
It's ok, everyone starts somewhere. Just keep practicing and you will get there.
Great video with a lot of advice I currently knew. You just left one advice for the H&S airbrush: relatively often I have ti replace the needle sealing. For just some bugs (about 5-10$) you get all varieites of sealing rings. They usually do the trick to stop every kind of bubbling.
It doesn't matter how many airbrush maintenance videos you make, I will keep watching (& washing) them. I had always thought that my HP-CS 0.3 nozzle was pressure fit, not a screw fit - great learning moment. I've been a fan of the soft rubber interdental brushes for my nozzle cleaning (with isopropyl alcohol), and an ultrasonic machine afterwards. I also cry while I spray urethane-acrylic primers, I'm not sure if this helps prevent clogging but it makes me feel better. I haven't been able to find Mr Surfacer 1500 for over a year.
I cannot find Mr Surfacer 1500 anywhere in Australia, it's a pain
Thank you for the help, I'm having this problem for some time even after a deep clean.
But people in the comments have advised about replacing the white seal in H&S so thank you too Vince fans
Thanks Vince for the no nonsense guide with nomenclature. I use a cheap 40$ airbrush just so I can set a few base layers and do simple highlights. But I find my equipment clogs regularly after long periods without use.
Great video. I'm happy to see I've adopted some of the same habits. Definitely a few new takeaways including the Vaseline use to create a better seal.
Great warnings on tightening the nozzle, and a few others. Ive snapped a nozzle in half before.
The Vaseline on the screw threads fixed the issue I was having. More importantly, this video made the problem feel solvable. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
my H&S can be over-tightened and leak air. I have found there is a sweet spot of pressure and just a reminder that these tools aren't strength test machines. I have always had a spare needle on hand and that has saved me so many times when little fingers have been a little rough with their learning of the painting tools.
Watched this, bought the cleaning tools you used, just realized how an airbrush is supposed to function.. amazing. Great video and thank you!
I'm glad it was helpful!
I learned this the bad way, I broke 3 nuzzles to learn this, I wish i had seen this video 4 years ago.
Great video as always Vincent.
best video i have seen on airbrush maintenance. I have never had anyone say use vasiline. I will be using this on my airbrush.
Was watching this vid on an iPad and noticed at 10:09, during the needle cleaning, the video freezes up. The time is still advancing and sometimes there is the audio and sometimes not. This lasts somewhere til 10:30-10:40. Not sure if there is anything you can do to fix but thought you might like to know. Aside from that glitch loved the video and found it very helpful.
Excellent video.
I love how you explain the information.
You break it down easily to understand as well as said with a supportive voice.
You cover all aspects that others glaze over or just leave out.
Thank you for everything you do ❤
Glad it was helpful!
using this guide I figured out it was the nozzle being distorted that was the issue not dried paint, swapped the nozzle and good to go! thanks!
The brass nozzle fragility cannot be overstated. First time I was putting mine back together, I was going for a tool tight feel like I was used to on cars. Stripped WAY before I ever got there. Go for snug but not tight. I have since switched to H&S so it happens to be mostly a non issue, but still a good learning lesson.
My airbrush arrived today! What lucky timing for me. Thankyou Vince for continuing to provide some of the best educational content on RUclips (for free!) with miniatures.
You are most welcome!
Great timing, I gave an airbrush to a friend for Christmas and was directing him towards some airbrush resources to help him out with it. I'll add I have had good luck with the "interdental brushes" instead of the hard pipe cleaners. The bristles are softer so less likely to score the softer metals and oddly the construction seems to be sturdier. Plus if they do start to wear out they're pretty disposable. I also own an ultrasonic cleaner and for when I really can't figure out how I screwed up my airbrush (usually varnish or primer is the culprit) I huck it in there with some cleaning fluid and all the parts come out shiny again. Even the outside of my brush which is also usually dirty.
I don't think you mentioned this Vince but another thing that can cause backflow with the Harder and Steenbeck's nozzle is a defect in the little white PTFE seal that sits on the back of the nozzle. I had bubbling and backflow into a brand new Infinity and fixed it by replacing that little bit back there.
Perfect timing boss, just got my first airbrush for christmas!
Thanks for covering this Vince. Much appreciated!
One warning to people who worry about dried paint inside the cup. Don’t soak your chrome parts in alkaline household cleaner like simple green. It will eat the chrome off. I have several paint cups that are missing the chrome on the inside because I left them soaking in Simple Green. Isopropyl alcohol won’t hurt it whatsoever even if you leave it in there for months.
I never knew you were supposed to pull the needle out from the front 😅 seemed so intuitive for me
Very helpful resource, as always.
I'm glad it helps!
I have definitely flared a few nozzles by pushing too hard, great video! Happy new year to you and your family :)
You're the best Vince, thanks so much
My pleasure!
Perfect stuff Vince!
Get yourself some tiny tooth brush picks they are awesome for cleaning up he nozzle along with the nozzle toCotton buds are also great for cleaning. With really stubborn paint I use Windsor and newton brush cleaner which takes anything off!
Yay an airbrush video. All those anti-airbrush Luddites can kick rocks
Im just about to start to learn how to airbrush. Talk about on point :)
Yeah, Vince does tend to do that. I think he's psychically tethered to the needs of his audience via the medium of the warp and the power of Tzeench.
Something to watch for with the Iwata is to be careful not to cross thread the front cone when reinstalling it. I cross threaded mine and eventually had to give up trying to repair the brass threads and buy a new airbrush.
Right on time, an amazing video in time of need thanks Vince! I received an airbrush for christmas and after 2 sessions i was starting to get a little of backflow, I screwed off the nozzle and found a lot of gunk inside, little issue: the thread of the nozzle stayed inside the airbrush...😢 I've ordered a replacement set 😅
I have found that thinning my paint more, and a lower pressure, has almost eliminated most dry tip for me
It definitely helps for sure!
My problem with bubbling was degraded rubber seal at the tip of the nozzle. I'm quite surprised you didn't mention seals at all. Some new designs dropped the idea of screwed nozzles, sure, but even your iwata has some weird floating/screwed nozzle combo. Cheap models have equivalent of that big brass part integratet into the body, and just that tiny nozzle tip removable. So that thread there without any rubber seal (or with broken seal) is most likely the cause of bubbling. And you can't really brute force tighten it into submission without breaking that part.
But now I wonder if some vaseline on the thread could've helped me, instead of buying whole o-ring set for my airbrush. Will test that next time I face that issue. Thx for the idea and keep those vids coming
Yes, the o-rings is probably worthy of its own conversation for sure.
Glad it's working for you, but most people (including the manufacturer) would highly advise against taking Iwata's self-centering/press-fit nozzle apart (disassembling the brass "housing" from the "tip"). That's just asking for another point of leakage. You are supposed to treat it just like the one in H&S, as a single part. If you absolutely must do this, then at least seal it back with thread sealer or beeswax. I've never had a blockage that would warrant this and couldn't be taken out with just dental brushes, even after spraying primers and varnishes. Love your videos, but this particular tip can backfire really easily, especially for new people.
Great video. I've been having back flow issues lately with my hp-cs, Cleaned and recleaned it. I'm going to try the Vaseline trick, because that looks like it could remedy the issue I'm having.
Amazing content! I have an issue with my airbrush, which it will not back flow no matter what I use to cover the front of it. It works fine for painting just doesn’t back flow. Its design is similar to the harder a steenbeck air brushes. Great content as always Vince.😀
You could try a pinch with a rubber glove. That being said, you can always just mix outside the cup and you're fine, and then when cleaning, just swish, dump, spray and so on.
Thanks for making this Vince, I needed this pretty badly!
Thanks for the tips! I've got a sticky trigger and an occasional air leak at the hose so I'm going to try another deep clean first and see if that helps.
I somehow needed exactly this video today, working on my badger patriot hehe
I’m still using the same Iwata after almost 10 years of hobby. Same needle and everything. I’ve never separated the needle tip in my cleaning but I can see that would make things MUCH easier.
Same, still use my Iwata Neo almost daily for around 5 years now.
This is a great and helpful tutorial. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the tips as always Vince :) looking forward to becoming better at airbrushing.
few things - you call also send your airbrush in to be serviced. Iwata is here in portland and they offer those service directly if you think your airbrush is broken. local airbrush suppliers usually offer this service too.
I'd be curious about your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaners, I usually just drop my tips in one with simple green, scrape then we are off to the races. much less scraping and fiddling around.
Yep, also great, I just didn't want people to think they needed to get an ultra sonic or similar.
Buying an airbrush was the best hobby related decision I've ever made.
Fun fact: My Grex XG airbrush (the company who is now providing the airbrushes for Monument Hobby) doesn't like the needle coming out the front at all. The knurling they use to indicate the needle size will actually wear down the packing seal over time if you try to pull it out the front. Happy hobbying!
Will be cleaning my airbrush based on this tomorrow. Will check back in and confirm if this fixes the extract issues I have.
Well, it’s not fixed, still some bubbles coming out. I just purchased the cleaning needle/pin and will clean better again. But can confirm that the magnifying glass trick works!!!
Ok, so the pin things came in. GAME CHANGING! cleaned out the nozzle - clean as a whistle… no more bubbles! I imagine this was causing most of my problems! Will be doing airbrushing tonight and see how it goes!
I just got an airbrush for christmas so this is perfect timing.
I had issue with my airbrush when backflowing paint, it would go to the trigger chamber. Had to replace the needle seal which was pretty much stuck due to the paint drying around it. After replacing it, I didnt really have any issues with clogging, Also using more heavy duty cleaners after the session, like tamiya airbrush cleaner helped a lot.
I have fought with my airbrush for years, changing tips and needles, cleaning it with the ultrasonic cleaner, and it seems that I get tons of blockages, spatters, and bubbles back through the cup (like on of those old bubble pipe kids' toys). I am afraid to use it for anything other than priming lest some spattering ruin the paint job to that point (not that I am such a great painter anyway...).
Saving this one.
Thanks.
I didn't realize I could take that tiny little tip off the end, this will make it easier for me to clean my airbrush ... and possibly lose parts :)
It makes it easier, but you want to be really, really careful.
Interdental brushes and isopropyl alcohol is an alternative to pipe cleaners and whatnot
I was sooo in need of this ! Thank you !
Thank you! Was wondering if I would need new o-rings or a new nozzle since I couldnt figure out how to fix my random sputtering. When I tried your tip for cleaing the nozzle using the needed tool I think I removed half a bottle of primer from it. Hopefully that solves that problem!
I didn't know there was a specific nozzle cleaning tool. I always just shaved down a tooth pick and dipped it in isopropyl then scraped inside.
Ive had my first eclipse since 2010 and even not being super careful, it hardly caused issues except for a sticky trigger. I replaced the trigger not too long ago, but recently it started clogging more frequently especially with Vallejo primer. I just got a new eclipse and the old one is now dedicated for primer.
Omg Vince, THANK YOU!!!
Omg been staring at my bubbling Grex for a year... saddened. Gonna try some of this
Superb video Vince
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great info shared in this one!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
@ always do!!!
thanks for this video ! Happy new year ! (ooooh, this nozzle...)
You are very welcome!
A cheap ultrasonic cleaner for glasses can also work quite well for large clogs
I needed this video 1 week ago 😅
this was so helpful - thank you!
Glad to help!
Another cause of air leaks in Iwatas is the rubber seal at the front (which is the same as the one at the back) -- freakin' $7 for that tiny piece of rubber. I always have a spare needle and spare set of Nozzle parts and rubber gaskets for my Iwatas incase 1.) they stop making them and 2.) I need a replacement.
Vince, you're gonna hate me but... I remove the needle from the front 😆I started doing that when I had an Evolution, because my previous ultracheap airbrush had a nasty habit of making a mess in the airbrush handle when removing the needle from the back, as paint leftovers would travel to that part (the o-ring and the seal weren't very good). Being so OCD as I am, the mere idea of having dirt in a part which I could not see made me disassemble that seal frequently, damaging the o-ring in the end. With my Evolution, I never put a dirty needle to the back of the airbrush, and since thanks to the floating nozzle I could remove from the front, I started doing so.
With my latest airbrush, a Gaahleri, I have the same kind of floating nozzle, so I still remove the needle from the front, even though I've checked that removing it from the back does not put any dirt (or at least, not much dirt) into the back of the airbrush body, the seal being very good. Still, old habits die hard, so I still remove it from the front most of the time. My OCD loves that 😆and well, it's not vital for me, I would not do that with an screwed nozzle, does not make any sense.
I still love your videos, though 😆 No, seriously, GREAT video, and very useful as always, you're fantastic, thanks a lot for this video.
I don't hate you at all! If that works for you, then that is more than fine, I just don't want everyone coming after me for pulling it out the back of the brush, but either is fine. :)
@@VinceVenturella this is RUclips, SOMEONE is going to come after you no matter what 😆And yes, either is fine, depends on your airbrush brand and model, the state of the different pieces, etc. Removing from the front in the classical airbrush with screw-on nozzles is a big no-no in my humble opinion, you're calling for problems. So even in floating-nozzle airbrushes, having the habit of removing from the back is probably a better option to build good muscle memory if you ever have to go to a screw-on nozzle design.
BTW it's incredible you are on hobby cheating video 483 and you STILL produce useful and funny videos. Your channel is just incredible.
I think the actual schnozzle is made of a softer tin alloy. It's soft so it can deform around the hardened steel needle and for a complete seal.
I suspect a hardened steel schnoz would eventually wear down the needle. In engineering, we often bear a soft, slick material on a hard material.
The thing that caught me off guard was people pull the needle through the front ha! I have never seen that, or thought of that because the shaft is fit to the needle thus pulling it out and not wiggling it like a mad man, or dropping it is just fine. Even slotting it back in I go through the back, nice and slow gentle pressure. I haven't damaged a needle ever. Iwata, Sotar, H&S Ultra, Master, Gaahleri never ever have I damaged one...
For what its worth, i have never once disassembled my iwata nozzle into 2 parts... cant really think of anything it lets you do you wouldn't be able to do with it attached to the brass bit (well i skipped the pipecleaner step and just scrape it out with the needle tool directly) so you could consider that one if you dont wanna futz with tiny nozzle parts
Yeah, I find it lets me get the really nice clean, but you're right, it's a risk
I use lip balm to seal the threads on my airbrush when I assemble it after a deep clean.
Thanks Vince
If I'm not mistaken even the old HS aribrushes had a manual showing the needle being put out through the back. Plus I don't fell comfortable getting it through the front considering the notches at the end of HS needles.
But Vince, you said in your previous cleaning your airbrush video it wasn’t a sisyphean task 😉🤣❤️ Great video thanks. Always good to shed some light on the mysteries of the airbrush and how to keep it functioning well.
A wood toothpick works great instead of a metal needle. Another bonus is that the wood toothpick has zero chance of scratching the inside of the nozzle.
Great video thanks vince
No problem 👍
Not seeing the affiliate links for the airbrush supplies in the description. Also, the thing I got most from this is I need to get and use one of those Needle Wash tools. Also the Vaseline trick seems clever.
Thanks for sharing!
I added them to the description, glad the video was helpful!
If only this video was out 3 days ago. I just fumbled my way through cleaning my air brush after it got some insanely huge amalgamation of paint and primer clogged in it.
Whats crazy is I clean it regularly too.
It can always ahppen.
I had a problem with backflow in my Infinity caused by a leakage in the seal around the needle in the back of the main housing. There is a tiny slit for a tiny screwdriver that you can reach from the back to replace the seal.
Thanks Vince. Def pull needle from the back and H&S is one fine tuned and well machined tool.
Any chance you could do a tutorial on aircompressors?
FOr sure, I will add it to the list.
7:00 i have both lost one of these, and snapped one in half while I was reassembling 😮💨
You probably should not remove the tiny tip on the Iwata Eclipse nozzle. Just treat it as a single piece nozzle and clean it gently with the cleaning needle tool and airbrush cleaner. It's just too delicate and easy to break or strip the threads.
Big strong man 😂❤❤
You can also mix vaseline with beeswax, makes way better sealant. I own a badger...
Sounds like lip balm lol
Warrick at H&as dreams that you will want to keep his newest infinity clean on the oitside, too!
BTW It's True Warrick wrote it in the comments in the infinity reval video he did.
Just bought a new, nicer airbrush. I dropped my last one and the back end of if split. I was due for a nicer one anyway
Thanks Vince, i started wondering if those little brushes were any good for the airbrush as mine has started losing strands, wonder confirmed. :)
No problem 👍
Great video once again! Will have to buy the nozzle cleaner for sure. I problem I recently had was a lot of dried up paint between the part of the airbrush between the trigger and the part where the cup meets the mainbody of the airbrush. Any clue on how this happens, how to clean it and how to prevent it?
It can happen with some airbrushes that aren't designed as tightly, the key is after each usage to really get in there with a tool, brush or little cleaning swab to get that paint out, some 99% iso alcohol can help.
Vince, I recently bought an Iwata HP-BH and I imagine it's very similar to your HP-CS. The HP-BH is having a couple problems: 1) The trigger is so stiff. I have cleaned it and lubricated it and it feels like I am fighting it when I want precision. Especially after coming from a reaper vex I cant figure out if this is just how its made but it feels so agonizing to use sometimes. 2) When consistently holding the trigger down and back for air and paint it will spray on and off a few seconds at a time. It is very inconsistent. My paint is thinned with flow improver and airbrush medium, spraying Pro-Acryl, cleaned very well as you have shown above.
Thanks for your thoughts.
1) I haven't used that exact one, but you coulod always try gun oil lubricant. That is really a pretty powerful lubricant that is great for metal parts. 2) COuld the paint still be too thick? What size needle is it? If it's like a .2 or something small, you want to work really, really thin.
@VinceVenturella yea it's. 2
Watched!❤
Great video Vince! I have a weird issue with my HS Ultra 2024 where there's a constant air leak from the front of the airbrush, it's like the trigger doesn't fully seal, I've tried multiple deep cleans, it was working fine up until recently, I don't think it's what's causing mine to clog (I think that's more of a skill issue), but it's annoying. If I pull the trigger up manually, it reduces the leak by a bit, but not completely.
I think I figured it out, I didn't realize you can take the air valve assembly apart (still relatively new at airbrushing). I took it apart, did a bit of a clean and put it back together, seems to be all good now.
This is what I was going to recommend.
This was interesting, thanks for sharing! What if you have that spluttering problem but with a brand new airbrush (literally first time using)? I can’t find any blockage at all and have ensured the drop in nozzle is fit properly and the screw tightened
Had to say, could be a defect in the brush, something cracked or ill-fitting. It's possible that something isn't seated quite right, it's possible an o-ring is bad, when these common items don't work, it's gets tricky to find the exact cause.