Also I believe the lsd tuning has been in all of the games to date but it really has changed how it acts due to older physics and hardware limitations, so for me it’s like a refresher course rather than learning from scratch
The initial torque activates when turning into corners and deactivates when driving straight. The higher the setting the more quicker the initial torque will respond (safe/understeer) . The lower setting allow for easy turning and the initial torque not being aggressive. Depend on drivetrain and suspension setup and power delivery will determine LSD setting. Braking acceleration makes car stable on hard braking but car will have severe understeer. As for acceleration sensitivity. This becomes tricky. A car with alot of power will benefit from a lower setting on acceleration sensitivity as you throttle in and out of a turn you need to keep wheels running independently. A car with less power is more versatile in raising or lower sensitivity. You don’t want to lock wheels (full power) as wheels cannot run independently around a turn and therefore the lsd cannot do its job in distributing power to the wheel that has the most traction (keeps car from spinning out of car/better throttle control). Basically snap oversteer. There are other factors involved but this is a basic way of explaining.
This is one of the worst topics for me in regards to tuning, I feel so clueless having read the descriptions multiple times. At this time I'm trying to improve the Pagani Huyara and the used Dodge 2006 both with severe understeering issues. With my solution they still understeer if speed is slightly too high into the turn, which is annoying, but they can accelerate and steer excellently out of the turn, not even needing a soft acceleration, and it doesn't really oversteer, just steers very aggressively. That's not really the steering I wanted, but it is far better than the default, but very hard when you switch from a good car with normal good steering (like gr cars etc). The dodge I just never wanted to drive again after the first time, haha. Not liking FR cars at all, but maybe I'll figure it out doing these kind of things like you mention.
@@johnwayne-kd1pn keep in mind if the type of suspension that each cars has and that you would still need to use camber and tow. Also downforce as well.
@@rinkumultani6515 increase your braking sensitivity to stop the pulling when hard braking. As for the over steering that’s more complicated. It could be your ride height , downforce, your frequency, compression/extension. Pay attention to the weight distribution of the car as adding too much weight in the front that if your cars isn’t already front heaving can caused that to happen as well.
This was a great guide for beginners. I applied this methodology to my 84 GTO and it made an immediate difference. Aesthetically I didn’t want the wing on the car but it opened up the rear downforce customization which also helped immensely for high speed stability.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
I also agree with most of this, however imo there is no particular reason to aim for initial to be in between the other 2. As basically the lock you get on throttle is a function of accel acting on top of initial, and same goes for decel, though the impact is lesser than on Accel at equal values. So there will always be some unlocking when you ease the throttle, unless you have a very low Accel value. Also if you really try to go for weakest possible decel value it will naturally end up with the initial seemingly in between Accel and decel. However the units are not even the same, initial is a force that they just adjusted to a scale of 5 to 60 to match accel and decel scale which are angles in degrees. Similar initial on different cars might in fact be different amount of force that deliver similar level of lock when in neutral. Similar Accel/decel on different cars will mean the same cam angle but will deliver varying levels of lock depending on the torque of your engine. imo you also want decel as high as possible without generating too much understeer. that way you maximize the efficiency of engine braking, and the handling is a bit more consistent and balanced between the different cornering phases.
@@Doughtinator also worth noting that irl you don't find LSDs with less than 20°, though there is a 5° setting available for decel to make the diff 1way for FWD. (some brands express their angle in inverse manner, so 20° would become 70°, 5°=85°, 60=30) Lastly its hard to find a diff like say 15/40/60 in GT7. it's always like 15/60/60, 15/60/30 or 15/60/5.
Interesting. So these numbers are ramp angles? I just thought they were arbitrary numbers. I’d be very interested to know the actual logic/maths that’s used to make the diff settings work.
I the second this, this might be why I've had issue setting up some of my cars, high initial torque setting. I was using the Mustang 429 heavily modified and was having some issues that I mostly sorted out, one was the suspension frequency of all things.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
as a driver who got all gold licenses i highly recommended you setup, i being used always high brake low torque and acceleration 35, i recommended those settings use in 90% MR, FR even some 4WD
The acceleration sensitivity I feel relates to how much power the engine gives to the wheels when your feet is off the throttle. Higher means even if there’s no gas input, the engine will still give some sort of “push” to the wheels and causes understeer while lower will cuts the power almost immediately which causes lift-off oversteer. With that said, it finally clear to me now. I usually tune the LSD and hope for the best (it oddly just… works?? haha). It’s perfect to balance it out with brake balance and ballast but I have heard a car’s handling can magically change just by the LSD alone. I’m currently tuning the F8 Tributo and at stock the car is a *_nightmare_* to drive. I will keep in mind what I’ve learned from this video.
Been using your tips and on all the cars I had trouble using by testing and adjusting and that's even without dealing with suspension yet and gotta say this is the key indeed. Improvement is very good.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
with this video, i've managed 221 m/h with my 740pp mustang gt '15 (everything tuned, no downforce, 15 torque/60 accel/5 brakes) on daytona tri-oval. that's 9m/h than the irl 212m/h world record, with a road car. excellent video, good job!
Thx, I just switched from using ballast to LSD to treat oversteer during turns, and gained lots of performance, and not at expense of using extra weight.
Best LSD explanation video ever. Finally i understand how to set up MR and FR car. I use a bit different setup for my style but the explanation is excelent. Please make and FF guide as well.
Hey man great video. I just made a bunch of my rwd compete with my awd cars! That braking on the lsd saved me a huge headache. This was the best info I found on the lsd in the game. Great work! I'm currently onto suspension now looking for videos!
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Easiest way to remember it is, max lsd is for drifting. It resembles a welded dif which is what most drift cars use. So open dif would be more for racing. Which is the lower setting.
About Initial Torque: Once you have set up a good balance with "Acceleration S. and Breaking S.", "Initial Torque" is for when you add or decrease Horsepower to your car - then you just change the "Initial Torque Value" and your balace is still intact. Its basically a multiplier for when you have to tune or detune your car for a PP-limited Race.
Thx for explaining the LSD stuff, back then when I'm playing GT Sport what I did it just put everything to the max, and when I did the same for GT7 I found out that the Performance Point decreases, no wonder why I can't win lol
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
This was really really helpfull, i lost all my MR cars like the NSX Gr3 off throttle, totally undrive-able! Now i understand the lsd it is way more controlable
Hey Chris. Dunno how I missed this vid. A tad before I got GT7. Always wondered what did what in the LSD. Would love an updated version of the video, maybe with the FWD and AWD attached. Keep up the great work.
I already have an AWD LSD video. I think it’s probably my best ever video. I do need to make a FWD version. Though really. Everything I say about front diff in the AWD video applies to FWD cars directly. 👍🏻
Great tips cheers, this will help after an engine swapped car that requires taming, I recently managed to get a nice LSD setting for the Suzuki Cappuccino Engine swap to use for Human Comedy Deep Forest 1 hour Endurance, there's other potential cars but can't tame those as much yet. Cheers
Cheers mate, excellent video! 😀 I have been playing since GT1 and have always been baffled by the explanation of the LSD. Sadly I'm not as consistent as you, so I've never really been able to run the test you've just done here for clarification. Top job. 👍 ... and yes, I'd be very interested in a 4WD LSD test video. Cheers
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Great explanation, you earned a subscriber and I will definitely put this to the test this evening when I get home. Got a Mustang that needs a very steady foot and I think these settings will make it much more controllable.
Can confirm, these settings and the understanding I now have of them have made my GT7 life a lot easier. There is still no cure for a heavy foot, and you must still show respect to how you come out of corners but yeah without a doubt its much better, my Supra benefited a LOT from this too. Thanks again for the tips. 👍
Excellent video and made it very clear. GT's implementation of the differential is actually more complex than some other games on the market who often only offer a preload figure for setups, but this makes it tricker to master. I've been working on some setups in GT7 and trying to harness the power of the diff is something I'm still grappling with. This video has been a big help!
Hey man. Love the video. Helped and explained a lot. Was wondering if you could do one explaining the fully customizable suspension in GT7 please. Thank you and great job.
My rx8 has had so much understeer during baking..i have it set to the lowest setting.. guess i just have to deal with it. Pretty sad it doesn't handout like it does in real life.. my rx8 doesn't seem to have understeer at all, even under heavy braking ... Good tutorial. Appreciate it
Great vid - always found GTs explanation of LSDs to be a bit weird. I put together a bluffers guide to GT7 tuning for the leagues I'm in and the LSD page had me scratching my head for ages..! The bit in the vid that confused me though if I understood it right was the comment that high acc leads to power understeer; some sources I've read suggest increasing if excessive power understeer? Which kinda make senses as a more open diff (i.e. lower acc value) sends more torque to the inside wheel which will try to turn the car away from the corner?
I dont know if this applies to gt7 but from Forza and other games I played basically you wanna set the accusation setting high enough that you stop the inside wheel from spinning but not soo high that you get understeer on throttle. A lower setting is more likely to break traction, but you get less oversteer when you do, and a higher setting is less likely to break traction, but you get more oversteer when you do.
Good video. I understand what a differential does but have always been confused about why exactly a limited slip differential is desirable. I vaguely understand what it does but not why it's desirable.
Subscribed! Please more advanced tuning videos like this! Both on individual parts, like this one, but also taking a base car and what you'd like to do with it overall. Good stuff mate!
@@Doughtinator Amazing! Already watched a few of your videos and they are well-explained and entertaining, so I look forward to that! Side question, if you don't mind: GT7 was going to be my return to the franchise after only ever playing GT1-3 back in the day. I'll get it when home from traveling, but I am considering a wheel and pedal setup. Very expensive. It seems as opposed to going halfway and settling for something fair in the $400 range, it would be better to go for a Fanatec or just don't do it at all and stay on the DualSense. I'm sure it is, but do you find the wheel to be a large pat of the game's experience?
The advise I usually give. If you’re a gamer. Then playing GT on controller is good. It’s fun and you can be quick. If you’re a racer/driver and find using a controller awkward then a wheel will be a huge step up. I use a second hand G29 and I think I get 90% of the enjoyment of the wheel experience compared to a full FANATEC setup.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
@@Doughtinator no problem brother. I have an unrelated question, when I set up an online lobby race, say with a friend, why is it that I have no option for rain? Is this something that needs to be unlocked in the license or mission pavilions?
I think only some tracks have rain. I heard no American tracks have rain. RedBull ring defo has rain so try that one and see if you have the option. 👍🏻
Good shit, only logical explanation and reasoning for said explanation I’ve seen out here…I wasn’t too far off your settings but I was also using ballast and balancing the weight in lieu of my lack of understanding in this area. Playing gt since the original and o finally got the right balance in my 2wd cars ..for some reason i didn’t have any trouble tuning my awd cars with a center diff..so weird
@@Doughtinator i running my F12 berlinetta . I set my bias to -2 front, tc to 3, no assists otherwise besides default ABS, 798.99 pp mostly maxed and it is a savage..I left the rear camber at its default 3.0 neg and front 3.5 negative..ride height 2mm lower in rear w-downforce fr/rr applied, front sway bar-3/-rr-4 then the LSD initial isn’t available for whatever reason but the acc sensitivity is 25 and the braking 60 man it is almost perfect on any track so far, just ran the spa 60 min run man I was in 1st 11mins left and goddamn rain, had no inters or wets. Needless to say the last 11 minutes I fell 2 laps and 4.5 mins behind 🤣🤣🤣, just bought both wets and I’ll do it again later. Ur tips were fire spot on…subscribed to ya . If u wanna see the video of me on Nurburgring I did 2 sessions about 80% recorded. Was just getting used to the car and was on hard but finished 1st check it out not bad for that narrow monster track
@@Doughtinator bro do you have any idea how to enter the neoclassic challenge? It’s keep saying not available. I finally beat the spa race while I came in second sadly but it’s an hour grind. The weather was different. It started raining almost immediately and then throughout the entire race, my grip got a little sketchy in the F12, so I had to turn traction control all the way up, and really only go half throttle bursts, so I was limited for about 48 of the 60 minutes but those 12 minutes I got the grind I caught up but I keep saying it’s not available. I’ve completed the other four challenges I want to do this I’m getting angry do I need to buy a car first or what? Please help
@MnEanythingrc yeah you need to have active or already played the menu book which contains this race. Check in the cafe and make sure you have Neo classic available. 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Thanks for this. I can't get both MRs I own (Audi and Porsche) to feel good at RB Ring. Very bad in slow corners and tend to slide on the rear while also feeling understeery in the front. Hope these tipps will help.
Yeah this will help. As will a bit of ballast to the front. I have another video on that. I have my Audi and my Ferrari driving awesome right now with these two key tips 👍🏻
LSD is like the front sprockets on motorbikes and bicycles... even when you stop pedalling, the force exerted on the wheel is still there, causing skidding.
@@Doughtinator the more torque the more the car is going straight on brakes or acceleration... Most lower the initial torque to counter oversteer, when it's the acceleration sensitivity that's to high
I believe OP missed your reference. Once, I thought I had won the #Indy500. Upon gaining consciousness, I discovered I was parked head first in a cart corral at a Walmart three states away. #JustSayNo
@@Doughtinator I definitely have a better understanding of what the lsd does now but unfortunately I can not get this car sorted, it is so twitchy at high speeds, the slightest steering input and I’m off onto the oblivion.
I've always done breaking on lowest. Accel and initial right where you had them. Never tried max breaking LSD always thought it made the car harder to turn
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Thank you so much you’re the only one who actually bothers to explain things… I’m new to GT 7 and I love it as I’m actually disabled so I can’t actually drive in real life, I saw a vid saying in LSD (whatever that stands for) that 5 5 60 is the best to control any car however I’ve come across 2 really annoying issues… Issue 1) I love my Lamborghini and it’s 4x4 wheel drive, but how come the famous Nürburgring track is like ice even with driving assistance on strong the brakes seem pointless. I know I’m not great but it seem like the driving assist Brakes and steering are turned off for that one track or am I imagining it? Issue 2) How the hell do you control any Dodge Mustang? When you accelerate you always hear wheelspin so I assume that the Mustang has too much power going to the back wheels and I’m guessing in car language Power means Torque? My Mustang is a complete bitch to drive as if I accelerate while turning the car just spins around. Any tips would be appreciated thanks
Happy to help man. I have an LSD video for 4WD cars too. That might help with your lambo. For very high power cars. Someone’s no matter what you do with the diff can tame them. Rear aero often helps bring them under control.
Thing is, I shouldn't be going "When am I going to oversteer" The game should show my car slowly gather slip angle before oversteering. Just about every sim did this right, and the only one besides GT to screw it up was iRacing and it took actual race car drivers to hound them to fix it.
@@Doughtinator Okay, now I know what to adjust my MX-5 to, so it behave like my real MX-5 :D All joking aside, for example the Huracán GT3 is an absolutely great car.... the only problem is that as soon as you let off the throttle, the rear breaks loose, so you have to stay on the throttle all the time to keep the car stable through the corner. Makes the car very tiring to drive, because unfortunately you can't adjust the differential in BoP races. :-(
I heard 5 5 60 is best and I always do that with the brake balance on 5 so it turns tight… For 4x4 cars I just do the same so it’s equal. How do you do 4x4 like Lamborghini?
@Doughtinator going to give this a try. I don't like spending a lot of time adjusting each car for each track. Like I have to do in my Nascar Heat5 game
Similar effect for each car. But the magnitude and requirements can be quite different. For example. Mid engine rear wheel drive cars need a high braking sensitivity to keep the car safe on the brakes and turn in. Front engine rear wheel drive cars can be quite a bit lower as they are naturally more stable on the brakes and corner entry because of the weight distribution.
I vibe with that cat. I see catJAM, I like the video. Simple. But besides that, nice detail and informative video. I have a better idea of what I want to do with LSD which I have avoided purchasing for my cars until I found a video like this. Kudos.
Thanks for the info. Will try on some of the cars I ride. Most of them are FR and MR. I'm trying to stabilize a Shelby GT350R and I'm struggling with accelerating after a curve and on 2/3 shift my car simply snap oversteers. LSD is something to consider but is there anything else, such as Ballasts, weight balance, suspension?
An LSD should be able to make either the inside tires spin under power or the outside tires spin. Can GT7's LSD do this? (I think Sport only did it a bit with FWD cars.) Which are the benefits / losses of each?
It will either be inside wheel spinning up or both wheels spinning up. Inside wheel will be safer but slower. Both wheels spinning up can be faster but harder to drive.
@@Doughtinator Can you make the adjustable diff spin the inside tires first, though? I just tested both main settings with a powerful RWD car, min to max, and the outside tires always break free first. Either the game doesn't work properly or I don't know what I am doing , to test this right.
It ‘should’ be lowest initial torque and lowest acceleration sensitivity. But even with them being the lowest if you’re putting down a lot of HP it could still break traction on both.
Let me know your thoughts on LSD tuning. Do you agree?
Iv been doing GT drifting for 5 years now.. still learned something. Hope my drifting improves
Glad to help 👍🏻
I'm stup on tune but I try tune them throw mix
Yes I agree this video helped me out a lot would love to see on on tuning the LSD for 4WD vehicles
@@jeridc3075 yes, 4WD would be great.
love how people are redescovering tuning through this game
I appreciate the videos too. I have no problem testing things myself, but it saves so much time when it's explained vs just testing my changes
Also I believe the lsd tuning has been in all of the games to date but it really has changed how it acts due to older physics and hardware limitations, so for me it’s like a refresher course rather than learning from scratch
@@kanehood3478 yeah it does work in a weird ass way, but still if you know something from real life you can just use that and you'll get decent setups
The initial torque activates when turning into corners and deactivates when driving straight. The higher the setting the more quicker the initial torque will respond (safe/understeer) . The lower setting allow for easy turning and the initial torque not being aggressive. Depend on drivetrain and suspension setup and power delivery will determine LSD setting. Braking acceleration makes car stable on hard braking but car will have severe understeer. As for acceleration sensitivity. This becomes tricky. A car with alot of power will benefit from a lower setting on acceleration sensitivity as you throttle in and out of a turn you need to keep wheels running independently. A car with less power is more versatile in raising or lower sensitivity. You don’t want to lock wheels (full power) as wheels cannot run independently around a turn and therefore the lsd cannot do its job in distributing power to the wheel that has the most traction (keeps car from spinning out of car/better throttle control). Basically snap oversteer. There are other factors involved but this is a basic way of explaining.
Yeah great words to explain this. I found it quite hard to really explain this stuff in a short sentence. It is quite complicate and situational 👍🏻
This is one of the worst topics for me in regards to tuning, I feel so clueless having read the descriptions multiple times. At this time I'm trying to improve the Pagani Huyara and the used Dodge 2006 both with severe understeering issues.
With my solution they still understeer if speed is slightly too high into the turn, which is annoying, but they can accelerate and steer excellently out of the turn, not even needing a soft acceleration, and it doesn't really oversteer, just steers very aggressively. That's not really the steering I wanted, but it is far better than the default, but very hard when you switch from a good car with normal good steering (like gr cars etc).
The dodge I just never wanted to drive again after the first time, haha. Not liking FR cars at all, but maybe I'll figure it out doing these kind of things like you mention.
@@johnwayne-kd1pn keep in mind if the type of suspension that each cars has and that you would still need to use camber and tow. Also downforce as well.
hi what should i change in settings if my car oversteer going in to corner?
or pull to right or left under hard braking
@@rinkumultani6515 increase your braking sensitivity to stop the pulling when hard braking. As for the over steering that’s more complicated. It could be your ride height , downforce, your frequency, compression/extension. Pay attention to the weight distribution of the car as adding too much weight in the front that if your cars isn’t already front heaving can caused that to happen as well.
This was a great guide for beginners. I applied this methodology to my 84 GTO and it made an immediate difference. Aesthetically I didn’t want the wing on the car but it opened up the rear downforce customization which also helped immensely for high speed stability.
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Yeah. I agree with that 👍🏻
I also agree with most of this, however imo there is no particular reason to aim for initial to be in between the other 2.
As basically the lock you get on throttle is a function of accel acting on top of initial, and same goes for decel, though the impact is lesser than on Accel at equal values. So there will always be some unlocking when you ease the throttle, unless you have a very low Accel value.
Also if you really try to go for weakest possible decel value it will naturally end up with the initial seemingly in between Accel and decel. However the units are not even the same, initial is a force that they just adjusted to a scale of 5 to 60 to match accel and decel scale which are angles in degrees. Similar initial on different cars might in fact be different amount of force that deliver similar level of lock when in neutral. Similar Accel/decel on different cars will mean the same cam angle but will deliver varying levels of lock depending on the torque of your engine.
imo you also want decel as high as possible without generating too much understeer. that way you maximize the efficiency of engine braking, and the handling is a bit more consistent and balanced between the different cornering phases.
@@dmtc6913 agreed with that too 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator also worth noting that irl you don't find LSDs with less than 20°, though there is a 5° setting available for decel to make the diff 1way for FWD. (some brands express their angle in inverse manner, so 20° would become 70°, 5°=85°, 60=30)
Lastly its hard to find a diff like say 15/40/60 in GT7. it's always like 15/60/60, 15/60/30 or 15/60/5.
Interesting. So these numbers are ramp angles? I just thought they were arbitrary numbers.
I’d be very interested to know the actual logic/maths that’s used to make the diff settings work.
I’ve consumed a fair bit of content on this topic and none of them explained it as easy and straightforward as you did. Thank you!
Awesome. Thanks man. Happy to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent description of the diff! Definitely want you to do one regarding AWD cars and the front diff
Thanks Man. It’s on the list 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator def interested as well, I've been trying to tune rally cars and its been wild
👍🏻
I the second this, this might be why I've had issue setting up some of my cars, high initial torque setting.
I was using the Mustang 429 heavily modified and was having some issues that I mostly sorted out, one was the suspension frequency of all things.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
I immediately won my first Super Formula race after watching this. Been going at it for a week. Excellent breakdown of the lsd. This helped a lot 👍
Awesome. Glad it worked out for you 👍🏻👍🏻
as a driver who got all gold licenses i highly recommended you setup, i being used always high brake low torque and acceleration 35, i recommended those settings use in 90% MR, FR even some 4WD
👍🏻👍🏻
Well you cant go that high on the front lsd on FFs and awds, it will understeer for miles...
The acceleration sensitivity I feel relates to how much power the engine gives to the wheels when your feet is off the throttle. Higher means even if there’s no gas input, the engine will still give some sort of “push” to the wheels and causes understeer while lower will cuts the power almost immediately which causes lift-off oversteer.
With that said, it finally clear to me now. I usually tune the LSD and hope for the best (it oddly just… works?? haha). It’s perfect to balance it out with brake balance and ballast but I have heard a car’s handling can magically change just by the LSD alone.
I’m currently tuning the F8 Tributo and at stock the car is a *_nightmare_* to drive. I will keep in mind what I’ve learned from this video.
I’m not sure this is how it works. I think it is the locking force in the diff when on throttle.
Been using your tips and on all the cars I had trouble using by testing and adjusting and that's even without dealing with suspension yet and gotta say this is the key indeed. Improvement is very good.
Glad to help 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
A simple thank you. A much better explanation that the basic menu BS. Thank you.
Thanks Michael 👍🏻
with this video, i've managed 221 m/h with my 740pp mustang gt '15 (everything tuned, no downforce, 15 torque/60 accel/5 brakes) on daytona tri-oval. that's 9m/h than the irl 212m/h world record, with a road car. excellent video, good job!
all the recent videos regarding the tuning aspect of GT7 have helped me understand them a bit more, thanks again!
Glad to help. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thx, I just switched from using ballast to LSD to treat oversteer during turns, and gained lots of performance, and not at expense of using extra weight.
Nice 👍🏻
Best LSD explanation video ever. Finally i understand how to set up MR and FR car. I use a bit different setup for my style but the explanation is excelent. Please make and FF guide as well.
Thanks man. I just released a video on LSDs in AWD cars. FF cars will come in time 👍🏻
Awesomely explained, easy to understand and the visuals helped immensely ty
Thanks man. Really appreciate the feedback 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much man I was struggling to wrap me head around the numbers, we owe you a beer
Always happy to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey man great video. I just made a bunch of my rwd compete with my awd cars! That braking on the lsd saved me a huge headache. This was the best info I found on the lsd in the game. Great work! I'm currently onto suspension now looking for videos!
Glad to help. Always great to hear people finding stuff useful 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Wonderful video. Totally demystified the LSD for me. Thank you.
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Easiest way to remember it is, max lsd is for drifting. It resembles a welded dif which is what most drift cars use. So open dif would be more for racing. Which is the lower setting.
About Initial Torque:
Once you have set up a good balance with "Acceleration S. and Breaking S.",
"Initial Torque" is for when you add or decrease Horsepower to your car - then you just change the "Initial Torque Value" and your balace is still intact.
Its basically a multiplier for when you have to tune or detune your car for a PP-limited Race.
Good information 👍🏻👍🏻
Thx for explaining the LSD stuff, back then when I'm playing GT Sport what I did it just put everything to the max, and when I did the same for GT7 I found out that the Performance Point decreases, no wonder why I can't win lol
Straight forward explanation without the fluff. Thumbs up.
Thanks man 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
This video helped me tune my AMG GT’s understeer n now it feels waayyyyy better n smoother on the track 👌🏽 thanks fam. New subscriber fasho!
Awesome. Glad to help 👍🏻
Thanks again! I think I'm going to try this out for the Clubman + race on Tsukuba.
This was really really helpfull, i lost all my MR cars like the NSX Gr3 off throttle, totally undrive-able! Now i understand the lsd it is way more controlable
Glad to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Chris. Dunno how I missed this vid. A tad before I got GT7. Always wondered what did what in the LSD. Would love an updated version of the video, maybe with the FWD and AWD attached.
Keep up the great work.
I already have an AWD LSD video. I think it’s probably my best ever video. I do need to make a FWD version. Though really. Everything I say about front diff in the AWD video applies to FWD cars directly. 👍🏻
Great tips cheers, this will help after an engine swapped car that requires taming, I recently managed to get a nice LSD setting for the Suzuki Cappuccino Engine swap to use for Human Comedy Deep Forest 1 hour Endurance, there's other potential cars but can't tame those as much yet. Cheers
Happy to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the hints. It would be great to underdtand LSD on 4x4 cars.
Thanks, this video was very straightforward and helpful. I feel more comfortable playing around with those lad numbers now.
Glad to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
Big thank you! This video really helped with my understanding of the LSD and also helped with my current project car (911 Turbo (930) '91).
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers mate, excellent video! 😀 I have been playing since GT1 and have always been baffled by the explanation of the LSD. Sadly I'm not as consistent as you, so I've never really been able to run the test you've just done here for clarification. Top job. 👍 ... and yes, I'd be very interested in a 4WD LSD test video. Cheers
Awesome. Thanks man.
The braking is very clear difference. The acceleration is a harder one to feel as it is most noticed on the edge of grip 👍🏻
Do you use a pad or wheel? I’ve only ever used a controller, I’m curious to know what using a wheel does to lap times and consistency in general
I feel like the lsd tuning and adjustable center diff is the best mod you can do on an AWD car.
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Great explanation, you earned a subscriber and I will definitely put this to the test this evening when I get home. Got a Mustang that needs a very steady foot and I think these settings will make it much more controllable.
Excellent. Let us know how you get on 👍🏻
Can confirm, these settings and the understanding I now have of them have made my GT7 life a lot easier.
There is still no cure for a heavy foot, and you must still show respect to how you come out of corners but yeah without a doubt its much better, my Supra benefited a LOT from this too.
Thanks again for the tips. 👍
Thank for this video help me out a lot especially with Porsche’s and Ferrari’s
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Finally someone step up to clear the air, gosh!
This is what it feels like to me. I’d be interested to hear other opinions. 👍🏻
Excellent video and made it very clear. GT's implementation of the differential is actually more complex than some other games on the market who often only offer a preload figure for setups, but this makes it tricker to master. I've been working on some setups in GT7 and trying to harness the power of the diff is something I'm still grappling with. This video has been a big help!
Glad to help man. Yeah the diff is quite complex. But a great tuning aid 👍🏻
Hey man. Love the video. Helped and explained a lot. Was wondering if you could do one explaining the fully customizable suspension in GT7 please. Thank you and great job.
Thanks man. I plan on going through all the setup options so I’ll definitely get to that one 👍🏻
Thank you for this video!! Excited to play around with this new knowledge!!
Happy to help. The fun part is testing and trying this on your own car 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Oh most definitely!! Looking forward to racing! Thanks again!!
Wow! First time in your channel. This is another level! Thanks for your hard work!
Thanks man. Really appreciate it 👍🏻
Great video brother, keep them coming
Thanks Man. Really appreciate it 👍🏻
Thanks for your explanation! Very useful information for tuning beginners!
Glad to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
My rx8 has had so much understeer during baking..i have it set to the lowest setting.. guess i just have to deal with it. Pretty sad it doesn't handout like it does in real life.. my rx8 doesn't seem to have understeer at all, even under heavy braking ...
Good tutorial. Appreciate it
Happy to help man. Perhaps brake balance controller set all the way rearwards will help 👍🏻
This episode is even better on LSD!
🤣🤣🤣
Great vid - always found GTs explanation of LSDs to be a bit weird. I put together a bluffers guide to GT7 tuning for the leagues I'm in and the LSD page had me scratching my head for ages..! The bit in the vid that confused me though if I understood it right was the comment that high acc leads to power understeer; some sources I've read suggest increasing if excessive power understeer? Which kinda make senses as a more open diff (i.e. lower acc value) sends more torque to the inside wheel which will try to turn the car away from the corner?
I dont know if this applies to gt7 but from Forza and other games I played basically you wanna set the accusation setting high enough that you stop the inside wheel from spinning but not soo high that you get understeer on throttle. A lower setting is more likely to break traction, but you get less oversteer when you do, and a higher setting is less likely to break traction, but you get more oversteer when you do.
Yeah pretty much the same principle in GT7 👍🏻
Great content again. Keep them coming
Thanks man 👍🏻
Good video. I understand what a differential does but have always been confused about why exactly a limited slip differential is desirable. I vaguely understand what it does but not why it's desirable.
Please, do a vid for FR, FF, AWD each, please. I'm sure there are some counterintuitive tips I haven't thought of yet.
Again great video on this difficult topic nice.
Thanks Man 👍🏻👍🏻
Subscribed! Please more advanced tuning videos like this! Both on individual parts, like this one, but also taking a base car and what you'd like to do with it overall. Good stuff mate!
Thanks Eric. Yeah that’s the plan. I’ll go through each one then make an overall from scratch tuning guide to setup a car. 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Amazing! Already watched a few of your videos and they are well-explained and entertaining, so I look forward to that!
Side question, if you don't mind: GT7 was going to be my return to the franchise after only ever playing GT1-3 back in the day. I'll get it when home from traveling, but I am considering a wheel and pedal setup. Very expensive. It seems as opposed to going halfway and settling for something fair in the $400 range, it would be better to go for a Fanatec or just don't do it at all and stay on the DualSense. I'm sure it is, but do you find the wheel to be a large pat of the game's experience?
The advise I usually give. If you’re a gamer. Then playing GT on controller is good. It’s fun and you can be quick.
If you’re a racer/driver and find using a controller awkward then a wheel will be a huge step up.
I use a second hand G29 and I think I get 90% of the enjoyment of the wheel experience compared to a full FANATEC setup.
@@Doughtinator Perfect - thanks!
Great explanation about LSD. Thanks.
Glad to help 👍🏻
This is a very good and well explained video of the lsd, I enjoyed it and understand better what they do 😃👍
Glad to help 👍🏻
Great info keep doing what you do so we can be better virtual mechanics👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks Man 👍🏻
Excellent explanation, so helpful! I look forward to tweaking my diff. Great vid. 👍
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻👍🏻
Elaborate each a lot more for each different drive train. Like “braking sensitivity” for FF, FD, MR, AWD, etc.
This is very helpful. And i would like to know how to set up both front and rear as well
Awesome. I’m working on it 👍🏻
Awesome video, thanks Buddy
Thanks man 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanx Mate…. You broke it down for me easy awesome video 👊🏾
Thanks Alex 👍🏻
Very helpful! Subscribed👌
Thanks man. Really appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
Bro, thanks for clarifying that, u’ve helped me a loooooot!!! Keep helping people 🙏
Thanks man. Really appreciate it 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Bro could you explain suspension this vid was really helpful with visual presentation
It’s on my list and I’m working on it 👍🏻
They finally brought back Gran Turismo 2 game base style back and i love it
You’re a good man for this.
Thanks man 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator no problem brother. I have an unrelated question, when I set up an online lobby race, say with a friend, why is it that I have no option for rain? Is this something that needs to be unlocked in the license or mission pavilions?
I think only some tracks have rain. I heard no American tracks have rain. RedBull ring defo has rain so try that one and see if you have the option. 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator oh that’s right! well that’s underwhelming. thanks brother!
Nice one Chris mate 👍
Thanks Man 👍🏻
thank you this help out alot made my driving alot smoother 🏎
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Usually pretty easy to dial in 4wd's..Having a bit of trouble with the Escudo..need an 800 pp for neo classic
I’ve got a video about LSD settings for 4WD cars. That should help 👍🏻
Good shit, only logical explanation and reasoning for said explanation I’ve seen out here…I wasn’t too far off your settings but I was also using ballast and balancing the weight in lieu of my lack of understanding in this area. Playing gt since the original and o finally got the right balance in my 2wd cars ..for some reason i didn’t have any trouble tuning my awd cars with a center diff..so weird
Happy to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
@@Doughtinator i running my F12 berlinetta . I set my bias to -2 front, tc to 3, no assists otherwise besides default ABS, 798.99 pp mostly maxed and it is a savage..I left the rear camber at its default 3.0 neg and front 3.5 negative..ride height 2mm lower in rear w-downforce fr/rr applied, front sway bar-3/-rr-4 then the LSD initial isn’t available for whatever reason but the acc sensitivity is 25 and the braking 60 man it is almost perfect on any track so far, just ran the spa 60 min run man I was in 1st 11mins left and goddamn rain, had no inters or wets. Needless to say the last 11 minutes I fell 2 laps and 4.5 mins behind 🤣🤣🤣, just bought both wets and I’ll do it again later. Ur tips were fire spot on…subscribed to ya . If u wanna see the video of me on Nurburgring I did 2 sessions about 80% recorded. Was just getting used to the car and was on hard but finished 1st check it out not bad for that narrow monster track
Thanks man. Much appreciated. I’ve made the no wet tires mistake a few times before 😳🤣👍🏻
@@Doughtinator bro do you have any idea how to enter the neoclassic challenge? It’s keep saying not available. I finally beat the spa race while I came in second sadly but it’s an hour grind. The weather was different. It started raining almost immediately and then throughout the entire race, my grip got a little sketchy in the F12, so I had to turn traction control all the way up, and really only go half throttle bursts, so I was limited for about 48 of the 60 minutes but those 12 minutes I got the grind I caught up but I keep saying it’s not available. I’ve completed the other four challenges I want to do this I’m getting angry do I need to buy a car first or what? Please help
@MnEanythingrc yeah you need to have active or already played the menu book which contains this race. Check in the cafe and make sure you have Neo classic available. 👍🏻
Insta-subbed! Thanks for such an informative and well explained video!!
Thanks Man. Really appreciated 👍🏻
Great explanation mate very helpful indeed… 🏆
Glad to help 👍🏻
Excellent video. Made a confusing subject really easy to understand. Thank you. Will you be doing similar videos for for other parts?
Thanks David. Yeah I plan to cover all setup options over time. 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Thanks for this. I can't get both MRs I own (Audi and Porsche) to feel good at RB Ring. Very bad in slow corners and tend to slide on the rear while also feeling understeery in the front. Hope these tipps will help.
Yeah this will help. As will a bit of ballast to the front. I have another video on that.
I have my Audi and my Ferrari driving awesome right now with these two key tips 👍🏻
LSD is like the front sprockets on motorbikes and bicycles... even when you stop pedalling, the force exerted on the wheel is still there, causing skidding.
Great explanation, this clears up some confusion for me. xD
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Subbed and liked
Usually it's:
Long wheelbase and heavy = low initial torque
Short wheelbase and light = high initial torque
Thanks man. That’s a good way to consider it with regard to vehicle size/weight 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator the more torque the more the car is going straight on brakes or acceleration... Most lower the initial torque to counter oversteer, when it's the acceleration sensitivity that's to high
I agree. Until the point where you break traction then it’ll snap.
Great thanks 😁 this helps me make the Ferrari 308 GTB '75 from undrivable to a car that can win this Ferrari Cup.
Awesome. Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent informative vids thanks
Thanks man 👍🏻
I love LSD. Never made me a better driver though...
Yeah. It’s not a magic fix for traction. But it can help.
I believe OP missed your reference.
Once, I thought I had won the #Indy500. Upon gaining consciousness, I discovered I was parked head first in a cart corral at a Walmart three states away. #JustSayNo
Don’t think anyone on LSD should be driving. World best driver probably struggle to drive on LSD as well so don’t fell bad bro.
🤣🤣
Great video mate. Ty
Thanks man. Happy to help 👍🏻👍🏻
Quality vid.
Thanks.
Thanks Rowan 👍🏻👍🏻
Hopefully I can get this to work on my nsx. Love the car but the snap oversteer makes it undriveable.
This should defo help 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator I definitely have a better understanding of what the lsd does now but unfortunately I can not get this car sorted, it is so twitchy at high speeds, the slightest steering input and I’m off onto the oblivion.
Glad to help. If it’s high speed problems start looking at your aero. More rear downforce. Less front downforce 👍🏻
Thank you so much, this has helped me
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
I've always done breaking on lowest. Accel and initial right where you had them. Never tried max breaking LSD always thought it made the car harder to turn
It does. But on the MR Gr3 cars especially. It’s really needed to stabilise them on the brakes 👍🏻
LSD: There are 3 settings (acceleration, braking, and initial torque). You want the braking one as low as possible without experiencing oversteer when lifting the foot off throttle in a turn (lower makes the car more agile, better turn in, when off throttle). The accelerating one u want as high as possible without experiencing oversteer when accelerating out of corners (higher will translate more power to the tarmac). Both have to be explored by testing in 5 or 10 point increments. The initial one in my view is best in between both of those two, because u don't want sudden big changes in LSD torque when pressing or lifting off the gas pedal. Have fun dude!
Yes please let's talk about 4 wheel drive and front.. having a hard time to getting my awd down rear keeps coming out on power
Much requested. I’m starting on it soon 👍🏻
Thank you so much you’re the only one who actually bothers to explain things… I’m new to GT 7 and I love it as I’m actually disabled so I can’t actually drive in real life, I saw a vid saying in LSD (whatever that stands for) that 5 5 60 is the best to control any car however I’ve come across 2 really annoying issues…
Issue 1) I love my Lamborghini and it’s 4x4 wheel drive, but how come the famous Nürburgring track is like ice even with driving assistance on strong the brakes seem pointless. I know I’m not great but it seem like the driving assist Brakes and steering are turned off for that one track or am I imagining it?
Issue 2) How the hell do you control any Dodge Mustang? When you accelerate you always hear wheelspin so I assume that the Mustang has too much power going to the back wheels and I’m guessing in car language Power means Torque? My Mustang is a complete bitch to drive as if I accelerate while turning the car just spins around. Any tips would be appreciated thanks
Happy to help man. I have an LSD video for 4WD cars too. That might help with your lambo.
For very high power cars. Someone’s no matter what you do with the diff can tame them. Rear aero often helps bring them under control.
LSD means Limited Slip Differential. 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Thanks and what is “Rear Aero” and where do I find it?
@@Doughtinator Thanks, assuming Lamborghini’s are all 4x4 is it better to have equal braking numbers (the same front and rear)?
Thing is, I shouldn't be going "When am I going to oversteer"
The game should show my car slowly gather slip angle before oversteering.
Just about every sim did this right, and the only one besides GT to screw it up was iRacing and it took actual race car drivers to hound them to fix it.
It’s a good point. GT7 is brutal like this.
Cockpit camera works well for noticing when the rear is about to break loose. Haven't tried chase camera
If I set the Acceleration Sensitivity to Low, is it like having an Open Differential?
Yes. Low is least locking effect 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Okay, now I know what to adjust my MX-5 to, so it behave like my real MX-5 :D
All joking aside, for example the Huracán GT3 is an absolutely great car.... the only problem is that as soon as you let off the throttle, the rear breaks loose, so you have to stay on the throttle all the time to keep the car stable through the corner.
Makes the car very tiring to drive, because unfortunately you can't adjust the differential in BoP races. :-(
Yeah man. I get you exactly! 👍🏻
Definitely interested on seeing this done on a 4wd car
I’ll get onto it 👍🏻
Very helpful. All I knew before is wack it all up for drifting!
For drifting. Full up is probably good.
How to increase acceleration on the exit corner? Did the LSD setting has effect? Or the suspention?
Increasing acceleration sensitivity should help. But too much and you might suffer snap oversteer.
Awesome, can you do one for 4wd lsd setting? Given the rwd lsd setting guidelines, anything else I need to be aware of for 4wd?
Here is the video you’re looking for 👍🏻
GT7: AWD Settings Explained
ruclips.net/video/9wGbah6DpvI/видео.html
@@Doughtinator cheers
I heard 5 5 60 is best and I always do that with the brake balance on 5 so it turns tight… For 4x4 cars I just do the same so it’s equal. How do you do 4x4 like Lamborghini?
I have a full video going through LSDs in 4x4s 👍🏻
Nice explanation
Thanks man 👍🏻👍🏻
@Doughtinator going to give this a try. I don't like spending a lot of time adjusting each car for each track. Like I have to do in my Nascar Heat5 game
It’s a really useful tuning tool. I mainly change braking sensitivity to tune corner entry characteristics 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator does it work the same for each car or not so much per car?
Similar effect for each car. But the magnitude and requirements can be quite different.
For example. Mid engine rear wheel drive cars need a high braking sensitivity to keep the car safe on the brakes and turn in.
Front engine rear wheel drive cars can be quite a bit lower as they are naturally more stable on the brakes and corner entry because of the weight distribution.
Me buying gran turismo: im buying a game.
After 1 week: i think i enrolled in automotive course or something 😅
🤣🤣 I got a much of videos that’ll help you get up to speed 👍🏻👍🏻
For my old Ferrari Dino, at 550 PP and Soft Sports, I have a lot of back end shooting out through corners.
Which LSD do I need ?
LSD and ballast will help. I have videos on them both 👍🏻
Get please can you do a lsd video for the 4wd, 4x4 and ff cars thnx
I’ll start working on it 👍🏻
HAVE YOU DONE SETTINGS FOR FRONT & REAR-WHEEL-DRIVE CARS REGARDS JOHN
Yes I have another video for 4WD cars too 👍🏻
I vibe with that cat.
I see catJAM, I like the video. Simple.
But besides that, nice detail and informative video. I have a better idea of what I want to do with LSD which I have avoided purchasing for my cars until I found a video like this. Kudos.
Thanks man. I did consider going for a full LSD meme at the start of the vid. But I kept it simple and subtle with the cat 🤣
Thanks for the info. Will try on some of the cars I ride. Most of them are FR and MR.
I'm trying to stabilize a Shelby GT350R and I'm struggling with accelerating after a curve and on 2/3 shift my car simply snap oversteers.
LSD is something to consider but is there anything else, such as Ballasts, weight balance, suspension?
Ballast can help. I have a video on that. 👍🏻
An LSD should be able to make either the inside tires spin under power or the outside tires spin. Can GT7's LSD do this? (I think Sport only did it a bit with FWD cars.) Which are the benefits / losses of each?
It will either be inside wheel spinning up or both wheels spinning up.
Inside wheel will be safer but slower. Both wheels spinning up can be faster but harder to drive.
@@Doughtinator Can you make the adjustable diff spin the inside tires first, though? I just tested both main settings with a powerful RWD car, min to max, and the outside tires always break free first. Either the game doesn't work properly or I don't know what I am doing , to test this right.
It ‘should’ be lowest initial torque and lowest acceleration sensitivity.
But even with them being the lowest if you’re putting down a lot of HP it could still break traction on both.