OMG thank you so much on the shout out and may I say you are an amazing guitar builder yourself and I'm in shock because your brad angrove I ve seen all your videos since I was building guitars keep doing the great work!
Thanks for the great videos on guitar finishing, Brad. You never lose sight of the fact that many of us guitar do-it-your-selfers can become a bit confused by the wide number of products available in the marketplace and the incompatibility issues that can arise. I'm beginning a tele partscaster build and your advice on body finishing is spot on to my current needs. Keep up the invaluable content work, buddy.
Hi Brad, love the channel! I’m about to embark on painting two raw bodies. Basswood = Sealer only Alder = Grain Filler then Sealer or will sealer only be ok? I’ll be using a Lacquer sealer for the basswood as it’s getting Lacquer too coats. Alder is getting an automotive high build primer because it’ll be metallic and my test panels show ridges even at 600 grit. Should I use a different sealer under auto primer? (SEM)
Hello, I'm a rather new fan, but I probably watched 100+ of your vids within 2 weeks. I sincerely appreciate the know-how you're sharing with us - and your great attitude while doing so. I'm also new in guitar (kit) building and I have my hands on a decent Hosco LP kit with mahogany body and maple top. I'm going for a blue-burst finish, and based on the vids I watched and the tools available to me, my plan is 1. water based filler (mahogany part only) 2. multiple water based stain applications for accenting/burst effects 3. Sealer: I'm between water-based and nitrocellulose filler varnishes for this step 4. Nitrocellulose spray cans. Now the problem is - I'm overseas and have no access to the brands you mention in your vids, and I cannot even always find the type of products you mention. For a sealer, my options are limited to water-based or cellulosic wood "filler varnishes" (if I try to translate literally) which I'd need to apply with a brush (other options are acrylic or polyurethane - only sealer sprays available are acrylic). Would you recommend one over the other?
If you are doing a nitrocellulose finish with spray cans for your top coat work, I would suggest opting for the cellulose sealer as well. You can probably shoot it over the water-based product after enough dry time, but that’s not the typical practice and it increases the risk.
@@BradAngove I'll obviously test it first and hope that any ill effects would expose themselves quickly. I guess other options could be using Shellac (that seems to be one universal product that's available everywhere) as a sealer, or completely switch to water-based polyurethane for top coat (which I'd also need to brush on). Thanks again for the help!
Dude, you have enriched my repertoire of old-man expressions. The funniest thing I've heard this lockdown. Literally laughing out loud. Reliving the dances with my butt stuck way back, I looked like a veloute,
Hey Brad! I didn't use grain filler on my Alder body Strat since I dont have good options in Israel :( Ive sprayed sanding sealer but since its very thin it demands 6 coats (sanding after the first 3) to close the grain and it also shrinks after a while. do you recommend thinning the sanding sealer less (about 5-10% instead of 20-30%) and make it heavier and brush it on or use a plastic leveler to spread it?
I watch you alot (and always good advice), so thanks for all the help. My brain can only hold so much info and detail, and there always seems to be alot of side caveates no matter who is explaining wood finishing, so that is where it can get confusing. I am going to finish an ash body in natural color. Just me, but my preferred method is danish oil, then amber shellac, then dewaxed shellac, and finally a wipe on poly. With that said, what is a good way to fill the ash grain first, then apply this particular finsh? Also, I prefer a subdued grain color, and not the darker "pop kind" of a grain look. (The color I get with this method is perfect, but the grain filling needs improvement).
There are many ways to fill grain. A simple wood filler is probably easiest for this. Go with water based since you’re oiling it. I have become quite fond of using epoxy as grain filler, but in this case that may make it difficult to get the look you want because it seals it somewhat.
FYI. I only use Bondo for a grain filler now for painted (not stained) guitars! It does a great job. Dries quick, easy to sand, cheap, and easily obtainable!
Yeah, bondo works. It’s not as fine as a lot of other fillers, so I would do a skim coat after with glazing putty, but if it works for you that’s what matters.
@@BradAngove apologies, i meant if i rough sanded a body to wood and sections of paint still existed, can i just vinyl seal the whole thing and then paint
Hey Brad, Shane here. I'm trying to do a 2 tone sunburst relic'd look on an ash body (like a 50's strat). I like the idea of having some grain texture show for a vintage look of lacquer shrinking over time, would you still grain fill? Maybe less grain filler so I'm not wasting sealer trying to fill all the tiny pores, but still has some slight texture? I want a little bit of texture but also don't wanna be waiting until I'm 80 to be done. It seems many in the relic community like to keep these details a secret
Ash tends to have pretty deep grain. Yo strike a balance there, I would probably do just one light fill with a water based filler since those tend to shrink. That should recede into the grain a bit and allow some to show through. Make sense?
@@BradAngove Thank you, I appreciate the suggestion. I think that's a great idea and confirms my thoughts. btw I love your vids, been learning a ton from them all.
I'm interested in refinishing an alder strat-style body, just going for a gloss natural wood look, nothing super-fancy. Is grain filler recommened? I'm thinking of using Zinsser shellac spray as the sealer, and Watco gloss nitro spray as the clear coat over it, both of which are available from local hardware stores. If I do need filler, is mixing gel stain with sawdust a more cost-effective option?
Thank you Brad! Working on my first guitar body now and you cleared up alot of confusion. Thank you I like your work and your approach in you're videos
Hi Brad, for pine wood, do you use filler first before the staining or after? Suppose I use filler and stain, should I still use a sealer before applying varnish? I am confused.
Hi, nice video. A question. My ash snooker cue grains become open over time and can be felt on hand. How to close the grains easily and then apply linseed oil finish? Thanks.
If it were me I would apply the linseed oil with some 1000 grit sandpaper so that I create bit of sawdust to mix with the oil and fill in the grain while I apply it.
Brad Angove thanks.. I will try this. I also tried grain filler but it didn’t make a lot of difference. Gel based grain filler seems easy to apply (seen on RUclips) but it’s not available in UK. I will try your thing and update. Thanks.
I'm going to paint my old ass golden oak cabinets white....don't want any grain showing through (highly doubt it's possible but ima try) anyway I'm degreasing with simple green, sanding, spraying with duplicolor sandable primer/filler (says it can be used on wood) THEN sand lightly again....then finally, painting. My question to you is: Should I use a sealer after my 2nd sand? (basically right before I paint) Would I achieve better results?
brad, where does prestain wood conditioner come in? i will be staining a mahogany body a medium to dark tone water based stain and an alder body a dark walnut water based stain. would the steps go as follows: 1. sand unfinished body 2. prestain wood conditioner 3. grain fill 4. stain 5. sand sealer 6. finish with tru Oil
Hey brad, ive been trying to make my own filler and it usually comes out chalky. Ive tried saw dust or baby powder mixed with glue and sometimes paint and water. Ive made a fairly nice gesso, but its not working great as a filler. Should i just stick to store boughr stuff and maybe add pigment as i need?
Harder than you at your first slow dance. Lol perfect. Hey Brad say you had oak and want to tru oil finish is there a clear sealer that will fill the grain but keep it visible under the tru oil.
True oil isn’t really meant to go over sealer, but you could grain fill and that should help. Use a tinted grain fill if you want to keep more contrast.
@@BradAngove thanks mate that's what I did. I managed to get some european oak salvaged from a ship in France in the 1750s its not super grainy but I can't bring myself to paint it, just hoping there was a way to keep the existing grain but gloss it up as best as possible.
Is it ok to use the Minwax Lacquer Sanding Sealer before using the Minwax wipe-on poly? I noticed the sealer can said not to put a poly over it but didn't know if this was do-able at all, or a definite no-no...
I'm building my 3rd guitar - 1st time using mahogany and I used grain filler per the instructions. After sanding and applying primer (2 coats) and then sanding I applied black nitro (4 thin coats). The issue is that the black showed a very small area on the back where the grain is showing and I clearly didn't fill enough. My questions is - do I need to sand back to to raw wood or to primer or just back a layer or two of paint? Thanks for your videos - they've been super helpful!
So if I'm wanting a transparent color on a mahogany body should I seal it or fill the grain? I was told to scallac then stain, and then finish......help I'm getting confused. I am looking for a smooth finish
Normally you would fill it first if you want a smooth finish. Or you could fill after with a transparent filler. I’ve done a few recent videos on grain filling on the acoustic kit I’m working on right now.
Brad, I'm planning on finishing a mahogany body with modified tung oil...going for a smooth satin finish like the LP (?) you were working on in your "Poly by Hand" vid. the top looked so smooth after the wet sanding! in an older comment you said, "You don’t need to grain fill before using tung oil. In fact, I’m not sure if tung oil will work properly over sealer." would this apply to mahogany as well? right now the body has a coat of poly sealer (from Solo)...do I need to bring it back to bare wood before the oil? maybe wet sand with mod. tung oil sealer? thanks!
If you want mahogany to be really smooth you generally need to grain fill because it’s so porous. Some kind of wood filler would help. You need to remove the sealer for the oil to work properly though.
Hi Brad great content. I want to obtain a clear smooth finish on a piece of open grained oak that was previously treated with oil. Can I use a water based filler or is that gonna create bubbles down the line? Can oil based fillers be clear too and are they easy to sand? Thanks in advance
I've got a mahoganny body and plan on filling the grain then doing a wipe on poly finish, no paint just the natural wood. Should I use sanding sealer before doing the poly or is it not necessary?
Hi Brad, I'm confused. I'm new to this and doing a mahogany body and maple top LP style kit. Should I use this vinyl sealer after staining the wood? Will use the keda dye stayning powder. It will not affect the colors? Thanks in advance.
Hi brad I’m on a build at the moment body wood black limba with a walnut drop top originally I was going to oil finish it but changed my mind and want to use 2k spraymax aerosol I’ve grain filled the body but should I use Behlen vinyl sealer first thanks for the videos really help cheers
Dont mean to sound stupid but I'm confused some.. I'm going to try colortone powdered grain filler.. when do I put that on before I dry/stain guitar or after stain/dye ? top is Quilt Top maple ( I guess?) and back is Mahogany , its that BYO wolfgang guitar.. now watching this you say I dont need to do maple but just the back as its mahogany.. is that right?
You would put it on before staining generally, but that’s not usually how it’s done with quilted maple. I have a video on accenting quilted maple grain that you may want to check out.
Hey Brad, I got a piece of pine here and want to fill the grain. Am I good to just use grain filler or do I have to seal it first? I am afraid that it will suck up water until the grain is finally filled (I use water based grain filler). Much love!
@@BradAngove thank you for answers. So, we ll start we grain filler (in european oak it is enough one coat ? ), grain sealer (how many coats do you sugest ? ) ; after that we could paint ? We could use any paint, water base, oil base ? many thanks !
One or two grain fills depending on the depth. Usually three coats of sealer. Again it depends on how smooth it is. The type of paint you use after depends on the type of sealer. Make sure the two are compatible.
Brad, I’m still confused. I am working with a mahogany guitar body for the first time and want to use alcohol based dye for better color. So what order do I proceed; dye then fill, or fill then dye? It would seem that the filler would prevent the would from soaking up the dye if done first, and if filling is done second it would cover up the color. Thank you. Joe.
About a year ago I purchased a quart of water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. I didn't open it until yesterday because I had some older oil based Sanding Sealer to finish (5 year old). I applied the Minwax Sanding Sealer on new Maple Stairs as per directions on the can. I noticed that as the Sanding Sealer was drying it started to darken slightly and create a blotchy finish at the overlapping brush strokes. Hopefully this can be cleaned up with some minor sanding. Today I tried to sand the imperfections but the Sanding Sealer was rubbery and could not be sanded. The sanding caused the finish to roll under the sandpaper while clogging it at the same time. It's going to take me 2 days of stripping to clean the wood and get ready for proper finishing. I will never take another chance with this product again.👎
Awesome video! Quick question about the vinyl sealer. I have some as well as Behlen stringed instrument lacquer. Can I achieve a translucent grain pattern finish on a swamp ash body by doing a grain filler followed by spraying on sealer then spraying on tinted lacquer followed up by clear lacquer coats? Or would I not want to use the vinyl sealer and just grain fill them start laying down tinted lacquer coats to get that patterned translucent look? Thanks! And keep making these videos they’re awesome!
Hi Brad. Every time I come across another of your videos I learn something new. I'm trying to highlight the grain in a flamed maple veneer. Would a tinted sealer be good for that since it won't be absorbed as much into the closed grain part of the wood?
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. Is there a particular method you would recommend with the veneer on the Solo SG guitar to get the grain to stand out? This is my first time trying something like this and I'm worried about sanding through the veneer.
Ok I just sealed my bare alder guitar body with a spray can of bullseye shellac only to find out by research online that it contains wax. My goal was to paint some acrylic enamel designs over part of the body and then clear coating the entire body with 2K spray can clear coat. Did I screw myself by not using dewaxed shellac?
@@BradAngove That kind of answers my question but not really. So does that mean I should not paint over my "spray can Bullseye Shellac'd" body with the 2K clear coat? I'm just trying to find a way to clear coat the acrylic enamel designs I am putting on the shellac'd body. Or should I just sand everything off and start over with another brand of shellac to seal it. Here's the Shellac I used to seal the body. www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-408-Bulls-Shellac/dp/B0009X8HWG/ref=asc_df_B0009X8HWG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144081759&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2840884112176249038&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060393&hvtargid=pla-306709815098&psc=1
Sorry, I guess I wasn’t clear. What I’m saying is I’ve sprayed acrylics over shellac that wasn’t dewaxed before without any problems, but technically it’s the de-waxed stuff that is supposed to be used as a sealer.
@@BradAngove OK thank you. It may be good to create another video and be more specific for us newbies out here. You know, explaining the difference between waxed and dewaxed shellacs and there effects when using with acrylics and lacquers over them, which ones you prefer, and why or why it's preferred to use dewaxed shellac versus wax shellacs. This way people won't run out and get the wrong thing like I did..LOL:) I just seen the Bullseye brand in your video and didn't know there was a difference so I ran out to Home Depot and picked up the one with wax. Those little details..hahaha.
Hey Brad. You're videos are amazing. I'm looking at finishing body #3 and I have some questions. So on body#1 (pawlonia or something like that) I started with dark dye sanded back to bring out the grain and then applied the main colors. I applied a couple of coats of MinWax WipeON poly with sandpaper to grain fill, then finished with many coats of the WipeOn. The results were pretty good. On body#2 (limba) I started with a darkened grain fill then many coats of WipeOn poly. The results were pretty good. Body #3 is swamp ash. I want to bring out the grain and use a nice rich blue dye for color. I am tending to lean towards using a colored grain fill to start then applying the blue dye after. Should I then be applying a sanding sealer before going with the WipeOn Poly. I don't have access to any spray equipment but could go with cans if that would provide a better result but the WipeOn approach has worked relatively well for me. Thoughts?
There are a couple different ways to approach swamp ash. There’s a good video about finishing it by a guy who does cabinets. I can’t remember his name though. Rather than accenting the grain first like you usually would, you can do your blue first and then seal with the wipe on. Then, because the grain is so deep, you can wipe a black gel stain into the grain and wipe/sand off the excess from the rest of the surface.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. Thanks for the response. I think this the video you were referring to: ruclips.net/video/epXzTe7vJng/видео.html. I am assuming that I will still have to do a grain fill (clear) to get a high gloss finish. Am I correct?
Here in India it is really hard to get a clear grain filler like aqua coat. I do have access to NC sanding sealer I plan on using tung oil at the end. Any suggestions?
@@BradAngove One last question. Do you use a sealer after you use a grain filler? I have a Swamp Ash body and will be using a grain filler but should I use a sealer after the filler?
I put on my 2nd coat of black and let it dry for 2 days. It doesn't pass the nail test so it hasn't dried entirely. Should I still proceed with wet sanding or wait a little longer?
Ok. You can proceed to the clear coat stage. You shouldn’t need to wet sand, dry is typically fine. I don’t know what you’re painting though. Wet sanding is nice on some items, and not a great idea on others.
Every time I watch one of your videos Im always trying to guess who you remind me off and I finally figure it out. Disco Inferno from wresting back in the day. His appearance is a bit over the top but the face pretty similar. Sorry, thought I’d share lol
@@BradAngove I appreciate the help. It has a couple of spots that need filled. I will only fill those little spots and leave the rest alone. Thank you!
@@BradAngove I usually mix my wood filler with black stain to make the grain pop. It works really good on ash and certain grains. I have a video on my channel of the Tele I just built. I used the black died grain filler in it. I haven't done it with flamed Maple so I have literally put the build on hold trying to find some info on how to preserve the figuring movement. It's also a thin veneer. Based on your advice, I will just fill in the couple of bad spots and then start applying stain. I think it's probably the better solution. Especially with a thin veneer I can't risk sanding very much at all. Your channel has been very helpful for tips! Keep up the killer vids 🤘
You still fill the grain - but instead of using a blending filler you use a contrasting or highlighting color. It can get complicated when you fist apply a finish (stain or paint), then seal the wood, then apply the fill. Here's a guitar I did that had a red body with a silver fill, and a brown neck with an "ebony" fill: imgur.com/a/4AMO4RK
Hey Brad! Thanks for helping me last time! I was hoping to ask. You’re help once more if you can recommend me a clear sealant for plastic that isn’t glossy that it looks “plasticity”. Trying to paint something to look metallic but fear it looking like a toy, you know? Any advise you can share? Thanks Brad! You’re awesome dude regardless!
Brad Angove Yup yup man! Tried a Krylon bottle (Satin clear) but it ended up wrinkling one sample and (Glossy clear) sample was great but end result was more waxy clear coat. Gloss you recommend actually beautiful no doubt! Just not my aim right now to find a invisible sealant, if one even exists haha! Thank you for responding Brad! I wish i could show you what I’am working on to give you a better idea! Much love man!
Brad Angove Krylon Primer (Gray)1st coat, Krylon Paint+Primer Glossy Black as 2nd. Airbrushed (forgot brand) Chrome laquer. Did like 2-3 overall coats. So at this point it’s time to seal. I’am upload up to Imgur and put link below!
Ah I guess this is my answer... shouldn't necessarily need sealer on maple. I can't believe you have don't more subs... you got me into painting man. Your channel alone has cost me thousands lol.
@@BradAngove haha! Well... if I had a shop like you... I would be flat broke. I'm doing all this out back in a small pop up spray booth with air hoses coming out of my garage.
@@BradAngove So I have my guitar sanded down to 320 and now I want to add some kind of sealer but I dont know what to use, then I will spray paint it and will finish it off with a clear coat of nitrocellulose. What can I use as a sealer cuz in my city I can't find it
One option is to stain it first and then fill with transparent epoxy. Then you apply sealer, clear coat, etc. In my opinion the better option is to grain fill it with a slightly darker colour, sand back, seal it, and then spray a tinted clear coat to get your colour.
I'm assuming that this only applies to bodies... With necks, its not necessary?...at least I wouldnt think so because necks are usually getting a different finish. ...I'd guess this would only apply to necks that were getting the exact same glossy finish as the body. "Harder than your 1st slow dance" lol!
Necks are generally made of harder, close grained wood. If you’re looking for a gloss finish on an open grained, like a mahogany, then the filler would be useful. Essentially, the same concepts apply to necks.
The Tele is getting a Mahogany neck with Ebony board. That neck was almost 200 bucks and I got a great deal. 0_o Sux to love the pricey stuff. ...but that's the one my Dad gave me and I decided to go all in on that guitar. It's getting anything I think will make it pop and unique. I'll dig for deals but I'm not going to back off a part because of expense. Funny part is... I'm not really a Tele player. lol ..but that one's special for sure. If I can find the same Mahogany/Ebony for the Strat I'll go there, but Maple/Ebony or Maple/Maple would be fine on that one. On the Tele, I plan to go with Tung oil. I have some Tru oil sitting and waiting, but unsure if I'll use it on that neck. I'm afraid of it getting too glossy, and I'm after a Satin feel. Maybe I'll apply a coat ...sand it back a little...apply another coat...sand it back a little....and finish it up with Tung Oil. Why? Because I make everything way more complicated than it needs to be. : ) Maybe I just need to come to terms with that and move on.
Bit perplexing. Especially when at the end you recommend a ‘sealant’ when the main body of the video was taken up with advise about filling open pored wood with a ‘filler’. So who is confused now?
It would seem that you are. As I explained, the two are not interchangeable. They are usually sequential. So on an open grained wood you fill and then seal.
You did not provide a process. Example: For old antique wood with cracks, say bay windows on your Victorian house.. 1. Sand (remove lead paint), 2. sealer, 3. wood putty, 4. sand, 5.Sealer, 6. Paint. Note: each step needs correct drying time. etc. etc. Thats what people need to know, the sequence and layering process. Most everybody already knows they need to use products to do the job, and that wood soaks paint up. I'm sure this video helped some, but sequence of layers so that a 160 year old board does not rot would have been nice for me. Thanks.
I give the process in my project videos. That’s not what this was intended for. For your purposes, sand, fill, seal, then paint. The timing depends on the products you’re using, so follow the directions on the containers.
This was so disorganized as to be unusable. People want to know how to prep and build to a great finish depending on the type of wood, and the type of color (eg stain, dye, paint, transparent or opaque lacquer, etc). Maybe some kind of chart. Categories of wood, what kind of color options they can take successfully, and how to go from raw wood to perfect finish.
Hi Brad! Great video man! What would be your advice concerning wood finish in order to achieve more easily for the nitro to chip off? (Relic). Thanks in advance, Alex.
In the case of a relic job you don’t want the nitro to chip off too easily. You want to be able to control what you remove. Stick with a typical vinyl sealer or sanding sealer.
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"Harder than you on your first slow dance"... thanks Brad, that cracked me up so hard I now need filler on myself! Lol!
Yes. Brad slips those in brilliantly.
Loved the comment " harder then you at your first slow dance." Great video, thank you for sharing the info.
OMG thank you so much on the shout out and may I say you are an amazing guitar builder yourself and I'm in shock because your brad angrove I ve seen all your videos since I was building guitars keep doing the great work!
Cheers Charles, you do great work. I swear, one of these days I’m going to change my last name to include that r haha.
😂
Thanks for the great videos on guitar finishing, Brad. You never lose sight of the fact that many of us guitar do-it-your-selfers can become a bit confused by the wide number of products available in the marketplace and the incompatibility issues that can arise. I'm beginning a tele partscaster build and your advice on body finishing is spot on to my current needs. Keep up the invaluable content work, buddy.
Thank you David
Hi Brad, love the channel! I’m about to embark on painting two raw bodies.
Basswood = Sealer only
Alder = Grain Filler then Sealer or will sealer only be ok?
I’ll be using a Lacquer sealer for the basswood as it’s getting Lacquer too coats.
Alder is getting an automotive high build primer because it’ll be metallic and my test panels show ridges even at 600 grit. Should I use a different sealer under auto primer? (SEM)
You don’t need a sealer under the primer. Whether or not you need to use filler will depend on the grain and how it looks on your particular piece.
Hello, I'm a rather new fan, but I probably watched 100+ of your vids within 2 weeks. I sincerely appreciate the know-how you're sharing with us - and your great attitude while doing so.
I'm also new in guitar (kit) building and I have my hands on a decent Hosco LP kit with mahogany body and maple top. I'm going for a blue-burst finish, and based on the vids I watched and the tools available to me, my plan is 1. water based filler (mahogany part only) 2. multiple water based stain applications for accenting/burst effects 3. Sealer: I'm between water-based and nitrocellulose filler varnishes for this step 4. Nitrocellulose spray cans.
Now the problem is - I'm overseas and have no access to the brands you mention in your vids, and I cannot even always find the type of products you mention. For a sealer, my options are limited to water-based or cellulosic wood "filler varnishes" (if I try to translate literally) which I'd need to apply with a brush (other options are acrylic or polyurethane - only sealer sprays available are acrylic). Would you recommend one over the other?
If you are doing a nitrocellulose finish with spray cans for your top coat work, I would suggest opting for the cellulose sealer as well. You can probably shoot it over the water-based product after enough dry time, but that’s not the typical practice and it increases the risk.
@@BradAngove I'll obviously test it first and hope that any ill effects would expose themselves quickly. I guess other options could be using Shellac (that seems to be one universal product that's available everywhere) as a sealer, or completely switch to water-based polyurethane for top coat (which I'd also need to brush on).
Thanks again for the help!
Dude, you have enriched my repertoire of old-man expressions. The funniest thing I've heard this lockdown. Literally laughing out loud. Reliving the dances with my butt stuck way back, I looked like a veloute,
Hahaha I always went for the awkward hip turn.
Hey Brad! I didn't use grain filler on my Alder body Strat since I dont have good options in Israel :(
Ive sprayed sanding sealer but since its very thin it demands 6 coats (sanding after the first 3) to close the grain and it also shrinks after a while. do you recommend thinning the sanding sealer less (about 5-10% instead of 20-30%) and make it heavier and brush it on or use a plastic leveler to spread it?
Are you able to spray it if you don’t thin it so much?
I watch you alot (and always good advice), so thanks for all the help. My brain can only hold so much info and detail, and there always seems to be alot of side caveates no matter who is explaining wood finishing, so that is where it can get confusing. I am going to finish an ash body in natural color. Just me, but my preferred method is danish oil, then amber shellac, then dewaxed shellac, and finally a wipe on poly. With that said, what is a good way to fill the ash grain first, then apply this particular finsh? Also, I prefer a subdued grain color, and not the darker "pop kind" of a grain look. (The color I get with this method is perfect, but the grain filling needs improvement).
There are many ways to fill grain. A simple wood filler is probably easiest for this. Go with water based since you’re oiling it.
I have become quite fond of using epoxy as grain filler, but in this case that may make it difficult to get the look you want because it seals it somewhat.
@@BradAngove Brad, thanks man, appeciate it.
Hey Brad!
How do I know when to stop sanding after applying the first coat of Grain Filler? Specifically oil based like the Mohawk Grain Filler.
The excess on top of the grain should be gone so it looks mostly like the original wood again.
How would you rate Popler as far as grain? Would a couple of brushed coats of sealer, fill, seal and prep it for smooth paint?
I think poplar is a bit too open for that, but I haven’t really worked with it much so I’m not sure.
@@BradAngove Thanks, guess it'll be part of the experiment. Look out for a bright orange seven-string in the GGBO 2021.
7 string? Nice!
FYI. I only use Bondo for a grain filler now for painted (not stained) guitars! It does a great job. Dries quick, easy to sand, cheap, and easily obtainable!
Yeah, bondo works. It’s not as fine as a lot of other fillers, so I would do a skim coat after with glazing putty, but if it works for you that’s what matters.
Very clearly explained, can you put the behlen vinyl sealer over paint or is it just for wood
You can put it over some paints, but generally that’s what you would use clear coat for. The sealer is intended to seal wood and dye/stain.
@@BradAngove apologies, i meant if i rough sanded a body to wood and sections of paint still existed, can i just vinyl seal the whole thing and then paint
Oh, yes you should be able to go ahead and seal and paint.
“harder than you at your first slow dance” - lol!
Great info. Thanks for sharing.Keep em coming.
Thanks.
Hey Brad, Shane here. I'm trying to do a 2 tone sunburst relic'd look on an ash body (like a 50's strat). I like the idea of having some grain texture show for a vintage look of lacquer shrinking over time, would you still grain fill? Maybe less grain filler so I'm not wasting sealer trying to fill all the tiny pores, but still has some slight texture? I want a little bit of texture but also don't wanna be waiting until I'm 80 to be done. It seems many in the relic community like to keep these details a secret
Ash tends to have pretty deep grain. Yo strike a balance there, I would probably do just one light fill with a water based filler since those tend to shrink. That should recede into the grain a bit and allow some to show through.
Make sense?
@@BradAngove Thank you, I appreciate the suggestion. I think that's a great idea and confirms my thoughts. btw I love your vids, been learning a ton from them all.
I'm interested in refinishing an alder strat-style body, just going for a gloss natural wood look, nothing super-fancy. Is grain filler recommened? I'm thinking of using Zinsser shellac spray as the sealer, and Watco gloss nitro spray as the clear coat over it, both of which are available from local hardware stores. If I do need filler, is mixing gel stain with sawdust a more cost-effective option?
Yes, grain filler is a good idea. You can just use an inexpensive water based wood putty.
@@BradAngove Thanks!
Thank you Brad! Working on my first guitar body now and you cleared up alot of confusion. Thank you I like your work and your approach in you're videos
I’m glad I could help!
Hi Brad, for pine wood, do you use filler first before the staining or after? Suppose I use filler and stain, should I still use a sealer before applying varnish? I am confused.
I use filler first and I tint the filler. The use of sealer depends on the result you’re going for. It often isn’t necessary.
Hi, nice video. A question. My ash snooker cue grains become open over time and can be felt on hand. How to close the grains easily and then apply linseed oil finish? Thanks.
If it were me I would apply the linseed oil with some 1000 grit sandpaper so that I create bit of sawdust to mix with the oil and fill in the grain while I apply it.
Brad Angove thanks.. I will try this. I also tried grain filler but it didn’t make a lot of difference. Gel based grain filler seems easy to apply (seen on RUclips) but it’s not available in UK.
I will try your thing and update. Thanks.
I'm going to paint my old ass golden oak cabinets white....don't want any grain showing through (highly doubt it's possible but ima try) anyway I'm degreasing with simple green, sanding, spraying with duplicolor sandable primer/filler (says it can be used on wood) THEN sand lightly again....then finally, painting. My question to you is: Should I use a sealer after my 2nd sand? (basically right before I paint) Would I achieve better results?
If you don’t want grain showing through the key thing is you need to grain fill. Grain fill first, then seal, then prime and paint.
brad, where does prestain wood conditioner come in?
i will be staining a mahogany body a medium to dark tone water based stain and an alder body a dark walnut water based stain.
would the steps go as follows:
1. sand unfinished body
2. prestain wood conditioner
3. grain fill
4. stain
5. sand sealer
6. finish with tru Oil
That process should work fine.
For an Ash guotar body with deep grain and dings, I will need filler, but then should I use sealer afterwards, for all the less-deep areas?
Use both. Sealer is typically still used after grain filling.
Thank you once again! I've learned a great deal about building from watching your videos. Thanks, again, Brad!
Glad to hear it; thanks.
Hey brad, ive been trying to make my own filler and it usually comes out chalky. Ive tried saw dust or baby powder mixed with glue and sometimes paint and water. Ive made a fairly nice gesso, but its not working great as a filler. Should i just stick to store boughr stuff and maybe add pigment as i need?
Usually you would just use sawdust and carpentry glue. Store bought stuff is good though generally.
Try Aqua Coat (clear or white) or Timbermate (around 12 colors to choose from). Both are water based and can be found on Amazon. Good luck!
Harder than you at your first slow dance. Lol perfect. Hey Brad say you had oak and want to tru oil finish is there a clear sealer that will fill the grain but keep it visible under the tru oil.
True oil isn’t really meant to go over sealer, but you could grain fill and that should help. Use a tinted grain fill if you want to keep more contrast.
@@BradAngove thanks mate that's what I did. I managed to get some european oak salvaged from a ship in France in the 1750s its not super grainy but I can't bring myself to paint it, just hoping there was a way to keep the existing grain but gloss it up as best as possible.
Well you can do that with sealer and clear coat if you want.
@@BradAngove as usual thanks Brad if I ever get back up to the states I'll buy u a beer.
You’d have to go a bit further than that haha. I’m Canadian.
Can I stain the mahogany body and then use neutral grain filler then apply a poly gloss finish after sanding?thanks
You could yes.
Thank you,God bless you be safe
Is it ok to use the Minwax Lacquer Sanding Sealer before using the Minwax wipe-on poly? I noticed the sealer can said not to put a poly over it but didn't know if this was do-able at all, or a definite no-no...
I’ve never tried it. I would think it would make more sense just to use the poly as your sealer also.
@@BradAngove oh ok, thanks!
What would you use on spalted maple? Great videos! Thanks
Clear epoxy grain fill followed by a sanding sealer or vinyl sealer usually.
@@BradAngove Thanks so much Brad.
I'm building my 3rd guitar - 1st time using mahogany and I used grain filler per the instructions. After sanding and applying primer (2 coats) and then sanding I applied black nitro (4 thin coats). The issue is that the black showed a very small area on the back where the grain is showing and I clearly didn't fill enough. My questions is - do I need to sand back to to raw wood or to primer or just back a layer or two of paint?
Thanks for your videos - they've been super helpful!
You only need to sand back far enough for it to look smooth again. Back to primer and adding a couple layers of primer again might do the trick.
@@BradAngove Thank you!
Impressive. I learned a bunch of stuff in less than 5 minutes.
So if I'm wanting a transparent color on a mahogany body should I seal it or fill the grain? I was told to scallac then stain, and then finish......help I'm getting confused. I am looking for a smooth finish
Normally you would fill it first if you want a smooth finish. Or you could fill after with a transparent filler. I’ve done a few recent videos on grain filling on the acoustic kit I’m working on right now.
Brad, I'm planning on finishing a mahogany body with modified tung oil...going for a smooth satin finish like the LP (?) you were working on in your "Poly by Hand" vid. the top looked so smooth after the wet sanding! in an older comment you said, "You don’t need to grain fill before using tung oil. In fact, I’m not sure if tung oil will work properly over sealer." would this apply to mahogany as well? right now the body has a coat of poly sealer (from Solo)...do I need to bring it back to bare wood before the oil? maybe wet sand with mod. tung oil sealer? thanks!
If you want mahogany to be really smooth you generally need to grain fill because it’s so porous. Some kind of wood filler would help. You need to remove the sealer for the oil to work properly though.
@@BradAngove thanks, that's what I need to know!
Hi Brad great content. I want to obtain a clear smooth finish on a piece of open grained oak that was previously treated with oil. Can I use a water based filler or is that gonna create bubbles down the line? Can oil based fillers be clear too and are they easy to sand? Thanks in advance
You should be able to use a water based filler. I’m not aware of a clear oil based version, but they are all relatively easy to sand.
I've got a mahoganny body and plan on filling the grain then doing a wipe on poly finish, no paint just the natural wood. Should I use sanding sealer before doing the poly or is it not necessary?
If you’re filling it first sealer isn’t entirely necessary. Still probably a good idea thought.
Hi Brad, I'm confused. I'm new to this and doing a mahogany body and maple top LP style kit. Should I use this vinyl sealer after staining the wood? Will use the keda dye stayning powder. It will not affect the colors? Thanks in advance.
It’s clear, so it should not affect the colours.
Hi brad I’m on a build at the moment body wood black limba with a walnut drop top originally I was going to oil finish it but changed my mind and want to use 2k spraymax aerosol I’ve grain filled the body but should I use Behlen vinyl sealer first thanks for the videos really help cheers
The vinyl sealer isn’t necessarily the best option under 2k. I would consider a dewaxed shellac sealer instead.
Cheers brad
Well that’s 1 can of spraymax nearly on the guitar Brad
It’s pretty toxic stuff goes on nice though
Dont mean to sound stupid but I'm confused some.. I'm going to try colortone powdered grain filler.. when do I put that on before I dry/stain guitar or after stain/dye ? top is Quilt Top maple ( I guess?) and back is Mahogany , its that BYO wolfgang guitar.. now watching this you say I dont need to do maple but just the back as its mahogany.. is that right?
You would put it on before staining generally, but that’s not usually how it’s done with quilted maple. I have a video on accenting quilted maple grain that you may want to check out.
@@BradAngove yes sir thank you! I’ll check that one out. And thanks for doing your educational vids.
Hey Brad, I got a piece of pine here and want to fill the grain. Am I good to just use grain filler or do I have to seal it first? I am afraid that it will suck up water until the grain is finally filled (I use water based grain filler). Much love!
Grain fill first (it could shrink and need to be done twice), then use your sealer.
@@BradAngove many many many many many thanks!
Hi. Nice video !, with what do you sugest to start , grain filler, sealer ?
Thank you very much !
Grain filler first.
Many thanks. It's here any chance to answer with pictures ? Thank you
I’m not sure what kind of picture I would use to depict the fact that the filler goes before the sealer.
@@BradAngove thank you for answers. So, we ll start we grain filler (in european oak it is enough one coat ? ), grain sealer (how many coats do you sugest ? ) ; after that we could paint ? We could use any paint, water base, oil base ?
many thanks !
One or two grain fills depending on the depth. Usually three coats of sealer. Again it depends on how smooth it is. The type of paint you use after depends on the type of sealer. Make sure the two are compatible.
As always great video and full of useful information! Keep 'em coming Brad!
Thanks Dave. Hopefully this one alleviates some confusion.
What spray sealer do you recommend for a poly finish on a stained guitar
I like the vinyl sealer from Mohawk.
@@BradAngove thanks
Do fillers protect or preserve the wood, do you have to put a finish over top?
They don’t; they just fill up the open grain or scratches and minor damage.
another great video Brad, very informative as always, thanks so much, Cheers
Brad, I’m still confused. I am working with a mahogany guitar body for the first time and want to use alcohol based dye for better color. So what order do I proceed; dye then fill, or fill then dye? It would seem that the filler would prevent the would from soaking up the dye if done first, and if filling is done second it would cover up the color. Thank you. Joe.
Typically I would fill then dye. The better option though, arguably, is to dye and then use a clear filler like Crystallac.
About a year ago I purchased a quart of water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. I didn't open it until yesterday because I had some older oil based
Sanding Sealer to finish (5 year old). I applied the Minwax Sanding Sealer on new Maple Stairs as per directions on the can. I noticed that as the Sanding Sealer was drying it started to darken slightly and create a blotchy finish at the overlapping brush strokes. Hopefully this can be cleaned up with some minor sanding. Today I tried to sand the imperfections but the Sanding Sealer was rubbery and could not be sanded. The sanding caused the finish to roll under the sandpaper while clogging it at the same time. It's going to take me 2 days of stripping to clean the wood and get ready for proper finishing. I will never take another chance with this product again.👎
Sorry to hear that. You’re probably better off scraping it if it’s gumming like that.
Is it possible to buy Surf Green or Surf Pearl Fenders paint colors? Thanks!
Yes. Oxford Supply has them.
@@BradAngove Thanks very much Brad. Love your videos!
Awesome video! Quick question about the vinyl sealer. I have some as well as Behlen stringed instrument lacquer. Can I achieve a translucent grain pattern finish on a swamp ash body by doing a grain filler followed by spraying on sealer then spraying on tinted lacquer followed up by clear lacquer coats? Or would I not want to use the vinyl sealer and just grain fill them start laying down tinted lacquer coats to get that patterned translucent look? Thanks! And keep making these videos they’re awesome!
You would still use the vinyl sealer for that. It’s transparent and should work well.
Brad Angove awesome thanks for the quick reply!
You’re welcome.
If I want smooth paint for plywood, then filler or sealer?
Filler first, then sealer.
Hi Brad. Every time I come across another of your videos I learn something new. I'm trying to highlight the grain in a flamed maple veneer. Would a tinted sealer be good for that since it won't be absorbed as much into the closed grain part of the wood?
Yes, you can do that. The highlighting won’t be very aggressive, but it still works.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. Is there a particular method you would recommend with the veneer on the Solo SG guitar to get the grain to stand out? This is my first time trying something like this and I'm worried about sanding through the veneer.
Ok I just sealed my bare alder guitar body with a spray can of bullseye shellac only to find out by research online that it contains wax. My goal was to paint some acrylic enamel designs over part of the body and then clear coating the entire body with 2K spray can clear coat. Did I screw myself by not using dewaxed shellac?
Personally I’ve found that dewaxed shellac isn’t necessary, but I can’t say for sure. Generally paint doesn’t stick to wax.
@@BradAngove That kind of answers my question but not really. So does that mean I should not paint over my "spray can Bullseye Shellac'd" body with the 2K clear coat? I'm just trying to find a way to clear coat the acrylic enamel designs I am putting on the shellac'd body. Or should I just sand everything off and start over with another brand of shellac to seal it. Here's the Shellac I used to seal the body. www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-408-Bulls-Shellac/dp/B0009X8HWG/ref=asc_df_B0009X8HWG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144081759&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2840884112176249038&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060393&hvtargid=pla-306709815098&psc=1
Sorry, I guess I wasn’t clear. What I’m saying is I’ve sprayed acrylics over shellac that wasn’t dewaxed before without any problems, but technically it’s the de-waxed stuff that is supposed to be used as a sealer.
@@BradAngove OK thank you. It may be good to create another video and be more specific for us newbies out here. You know, explaining the difference between waxed and dewaxed shellacs and there effects when using with acrylics and lacquers over them, which ones you prefer, and why or why it's preferred to use dewaxed shellac versus wax shellacs. This way people won't run out and get the wrong thing like I did..LOL:) I just seen the Bullseye brand in your video and didn't know there was a difference so I ran out to Home Depot and picked up the one with wax. Those little details..hahaha.
Hey Brad. You're videos are amazing. I'm looking at finishing body #3 and I have some questions.
So on body#1 (pawlonia or something like that) I started with dark dye sanded back to bring out the grain and then applied the main colors. I applied a couple of coats of MinWax WipeON poly with sandpaper to grain fill, then finished with many coats of the WipeOn. The results were pretty good.
On body#2 (limba) I started with a darkened grain fill then many coats of WipeOn poly. The results were pretty good.
Body #3 is swamp ash. I want to bring out the grain and use a nice rich blue dye for color. I am tending to lean towards using a colored grain fill to start then applying the blue dye after. Should I then be applying a sanding sealer before going with the WipeOn Poly. I don't have access to any spray equipment but could go with cans if that would provide a better result but the WipeOn approach has worked relatively well for me. Thoughts?
There are a couple different ways to approach swamp ash. There’s a good video about finishing it by a guy who does cabinets. I can’t remember his name though.
Rather than accenting the grain first like you usually would, you can do your blue first and then seal with the wipe on. Then, because the grain is so deep, you can wipe a black gel stain into the grain and wipe/sand off the excess from the rest of the surface.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. Thanks for the response. I think this the video you were referring to: ruclips.net/video/epXzTe7vJng/видео.html. I am assuming that I will still have to do a grain fill (clear) to get a high gloss finish. Am I correct?
Yes, that’s the video. You can get a gloss without grain filling, but if you want it flat and smooth you will need to.
so grain fill it is. I really appreciate your guidance on this. Thank you.
Here in India it is really hard to get a clear grain filler like aqua coat. I do have access to NC sanding sealer I plan on using tung oil at the end. Any suggestions?
You don’t need to grain fill before using tung oil. In fact, I’m not sure if tung oil will work properly over sealer.
Great concise video. Cheers.
Thanks Steve.
So if i have a ash guitar body i can use a wood filler then a seller?
Yes
How does the vinyl sealer sand vs Lac sanding sealer?
Similar. I find that the vinyl is a bit firmer, and so a touch more work to sand.
Sorry I just found this video but what is the sealer uses for and in what order would you use it?
It’s to seal the wood before paint.
What should I use for a plywood guitar body?
Depends on what finish you’re aiming for.
@@BradAngove deep black semi gloss, pretty much what you did with the sg project, so I’m assuming a sealer?
Yes. Probably a filler first depending on the condition of the wood and then a sealer.
If I want to use a semi transparent stain should I still use a grain filler? Material is English ash which is similar in grain structure to swamp ash.
It depends on what look you’re going for.
Brad Angove I like the look of the open grain look .
Then you don’t necessarily need grain filler at all. You can just dye it, or use some grain accenting techniques.
Brad Angove okay cool, thanks.
What kind of sandpaper grit do you use after you use your Grain Filler?
Usually 320 or 400.
@@BradAngove One last question. Do you use a sealer after you use a grain filler? I have a Swamp Ash body and will be using a grain filler but should I use a sealer after the filler?
Yes, filler then sealer.
Your first slow dance….
STOOPPPPP!!! 🤣
If you want to apply transparent paint so you can see the wood pattern, you don´t use any of those?
You would usually use a clear sealer, then your transparent paint, the your clear coat.
I put on my 2nd coat of black and let it dry for 2 days. It doesn't pass the nail test so it hasn't dried entirely. Should I still proceed with wet sanding or wait a little longer?
What kind of paint is it?
Brad Angove Rust-Oleum black. I don't think it's lacquer based. Z
Have you clear coated over it?
Brad Angove nope, not yet.
Ok. You can proceed to the clear coat stage. You shouldn’t need to wet sand, dry is typically fine. I don’t know what you’re painting though. Wet sanding is nice on some items, and not a great idea on others.
Every time I watch one of your videos Im always trying to guess who you remind me off and I finally figure it out. Disco Inferno from wresting back in the day. His appearance is a bit over the top but the face pretty similar. Sorry, thought I’d share lol
Haha I wish I had seen this comment months ago.
@@BradAngove lol it’s all good Mr Inferno.
If I use filler on flame maple will it hender the figuring movement?
Yes, it will reduce the visible chatoyance.
@@BradAngove I appreciate the help. It has a couple of spots that need filled. I will only fill those little spots and leave the rest alone. Thank you!
Actually I should have mentioned that it depends on the filler. I fill my flamed pile with clear epoxy for that reason. It doesn’t have that problem.
@@BradAngove I usually mix my wood filler with black stain to make the grain pop. It works really good on ash and certain grains. I have a video on my channel of the Tele I just built. I used the black died grain filler in it. I haven't done it with flamed Maple so I have literally put the build on hold trying to find some info on how to preserve the figuring movement. It's also a thin veneer. Based on your advice, I will just fill in the couple of bad spots and then start applying stain. I think it's probably the better solution. Especially with a thin veneer I can't risk sanding very much at all. Your channel has been very helpful for tips! Keep up the killer vids 🤘
If you continue this as a series do a dogshair fill on some ash - those look really cool, and lots of guys ask about the "look"
Don Vanco,
Whats a dogshair fill?
You still fill the grain - but instead of using a blending filler you use a contrasting or highlighting color. It can get complicated when you fist apply a finish (stain or paint), then seal the wood, then apply the fill.
Here's a guitar I did that had a red body with a silver fill, and a brown neck with an "ebony" fill:
imgur.com/a/4AMO4RK
Oh, gotcha. I do that too. Didn’t know it had a name.
Neither did I haha. I need to get my hands on some ash actually. I have plans for something along those lines.
Thanks!
Cheers.
Hey Brad! Thanks for helping me last time! I was hoping to ask. You’re help once more if you can recommend me a clear sealant for plastic that isn’t glossy that it looks “plasticity”. Trying to paint something to look metallic but fear it looking like a toy, you know? Any advise you can share? Thanks Brad! You’re awesome dude regardless!
Are you looking for a clear coat to go over the metallic paint?
Brad Angove Yup yup man! Tried a Krylon bottle (Satin clear) but it ended up wrinkling one sample and (Glossy clear) sample was great but end result was more waxy clear coat. Gloss you recommend actually beautiful no doubt! Just not my aim right now to find a invisible sealant, if one even exists haha! Thank you for responding Brad! I wish i could show you what I’am working on to give you a better idea! Much love man!
What paint did you use for the metallic?
Brad Angove Krylon Primer (Gray)1st coat, Krylon Paint+Primer Glossy Black as 2nd. Airbrushed (forgot brand) Chrome laquer. Did like 2-3 overall coats. So at this point it’s time to seal. I’am upload up to Imgur and put link below!
imgur.com/gallery/rcbWYZ7
Great one liner! 😂😂😂
Ah I guess this is my answer... shouldn't necessarily need sealer on maple. I can't believe you have don't more subs... you got me into painting man. Your channel alone has cost me thousands lol.
Haha imagine what it’s cost me
@@BradAngove haha! Well... if I had a shop like you... I would be flat broke. I'm doing all this out back in a small pop up spray booth with air hoses coming out of my garage.
What was that sound at 4:14?
That’s some guy talking. I think his name is Brad.
Brad Angove lol Brad.
Can i use nitrocellulose varnish as a sealer? Please reply
You can use nitrocellulose as a sealer if that's what you're doing your finish with. It's just a less efficient option.
@@BradAngove So I have my guitar sanded down to 320 and now I want to add some kind of sealer but I dont know what to use, then I will spray paint it and will finish it off with a clear coat of nitrocellulose. What can I use as a sealer cuz in my city I can't find it
What is the main component of sealer, can you tell me please?
You can use lacquer sanding sealer or vinyl sealer under nitrocellulose. There are lots of different kinds of sealers.
@@BradAngove one last question, for primer can I use acrylic primer or i have to buy latex primer?
Brad if I wanted to use Swamp Ash for a guitar body what would you recommend if I still wanted to see the grain but also wanted a smooth finish?
Are you looking for a natural finish, or colour?
Brad Angove I'm looking at a trans purple
Accented grain?
Brad Angove just straight on with a single colour stain
One option is to stain it first and then fill with transparent epoxy. Then you apply sealer, clear coat, etc.
In my opinion the better option is to grain fill it with a slightly darker colour, sand back, seal it, and then spray a tinted clear coat to get your colour.
you need to seal a maple top before applying paint or stain?
Before applying paint: yes. Before applying stain: no.
Brad Angove , thanks
This is harder than you at your first slow dance 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I'm assuming that this only applies to bodies...
With necks, its not necessary?...at least I wouldnt think so because necks are usually getting a different finish.
...I'd guess this would only apply to necks that were getting the exact same glossy finish as the body.
"Harder than your 1st slow dance" lol!
Necks are generally made of harder, close grained wood. If you’re looking for a gloss finish on an open grained, like a mahogany, then the filler would be useful. Essentially, the same concepts apply to necks.
The Tele is getting a Mahogany neck with Ebony board. That neck was almost 200 bucks and I got a great deal. 0_o Sux to love the pricey stuff.
...but that's the one my Dad gave me and I decided to go all in on that guitar. It's getting anything I think will make it pop and unique. I'll dig for deals but I'm not going to back off a part because of expense.
Funny part is... I'm not really a Tele player. lol ..but that one's special for sure.
If I can find the same Mahogany/Ebony for the Strat I'll go there, but Maple/Ebony or Maple/Maple would be fine on that one.
On the Tele, I plan to go with Tung oil.
I have some Tru oil sitting and waiting, but unsure if I'll use it on that neck. I'm afraid of it getting too glossy, and I'm after a Satin feel.
Maybe I'll apply a coat ...sand it back a little...apply another coat...sand it back a little....and finish it up with Tung Oil.
Why? Because I make everything way more complicated than it needs to be. : ) Maybe I just need to come to terms with that and move on.
I suggest you flip that around. Tung oil first, then build tru oil to your desired gloss level.
K thanks!
Cool video... Yah, I need a filler to fill up a crack in my ash, people keep putting pencils in it when I take a knee, LOL.
Still better than ice cubes...
Brad Angove yah it is, lol.
“Is that a rattlecan in your pocket, or are you just happy to be dancing with me?”
Well, it’s no gallon, but it should get the job done.
Idk why but I can hear high frequency noise in the video
Bit perplexing. Especially when at the end you recommend a ‘sealant’ when the main body of the video was taken up with advise about filling open pored wood with a ‘filler’. So who is confused now?
It would seem that you are. As I explained, the two are not interchangeable. They are usually sequential. So on an open grained wood you fill and then seal.
You did not provide a process. Example: For old antique wood with cracks, say bay windows on your Victorian house.. 1. Sand (remove lead paint), 2. sealer, 3. wood putty, 4. sand, 5.Sealer, 6. Paint. Note: each step needs correct drying time. etc. etc. Thats what people need to know, the sequence and layering process. Most everybody already knows they need to use products to do the job, and that wood soaks paint up. I'm sure this video helped some, but sequence of layers so that a 160 year old board does not rot would have been nice for me. Thanks.
I give the process in my project videos. That’s not what this was intended for. For your purposes, sand, fill, seal, then paint. The timing depends on the products you’re using, so follow the directions on the containers.
Slow dance comment, ha ha I'm old
This was so disorganized as to be unusable. People want to know how to prep and build to a great finish depending on the type of wood, and the type of color (eg stain, dye, paint, transparent or opaque lacquer, etc). Maybe some kind of chart. Categories of wood, what kind of color options they can take successfully, and how to go from raw wood to perfect finish.
This is a video. If you want a chart you may find that you have more success with a woodworking forum.
Hi Brad! Great video man! What would be your advice concerning wood finish in order to achieve more easily for the nitro to chip off? (Relic). Thanks in advance, Alex.
In the case of a relic job you don’t want the nitro to chip off too easily. You want to be able to control what you remove. Stick with a typical vinyl sealer or sanding sealer.