Thank you for always explaining the parts and their triumphs and failures, I think your engineering background helps out with this. You have an analytical mind and can translate it well in your words.
Huge old school machinist tip for removing broken bolts. I’ve been doing for many years. Heat the bolt with an oxy acetylene torch till cherry red. Map gas works too but takes longer. Use gulf wax (you can get at the grocery store)to quench the bolts at the block. Put your vise grip on it and 9 times outta 10 it’ll come out like butter. If it breaks again use the wax after you weld the nut on the end of it. Then replace all the hardware with stainless bolts.
That's exactly how I do it, with MAPP gas, heat that some-bitch, spray liquid wrench, heat it again and take my time back and forth with loosen/tighten. reheat or spray as needed. And you're right 9 outta 10 it works.
Was just gonna say this.. whenever I do busted exhaust manifold studs ( especially new hemis) heat em cherry red they almost always come out when you take er easy....good call!
Does it work or do people just think it works I looked up videos on this cause some old guy told me it works from what I seen people say it don't do anything different from just heating.
@@kpb711 I've don't even use wax. Heat em up red...grab a wrench, vise grips or whatever you got. Work back and forth slow at first and quite often the studs will pop loose. If it's busted below the level of the block I weld a nut on...mig usually. The heat breaks the bond between the corrosion and possible galling. Especially on an aluminum block with steel studs.
I had an 87 notch way back in the day, had like 150k+ miles on it. Had gears, exhaust, simple bolt ons, stock long block. Ran mid/low 13s. But it did have a bit of oil smoke on accel. Raced lotta people with that car. I'd get those that would try to slam me after they'd lose..."Hey, your car smokes a bit." I'd just tell em, if you can see the smoke, ur losin... That shut em up. Have a 97 Cobra now I put intercooled Procharger on, 60lb injectors, tune, 430 RWHP and upper 11s @ 117 is quite a bit more fun.
there should be an oil baffle/shield mounted on the bottom of the lower intake right under the pcv valve hole.. if that shield is missing the engine will suck oil up through the pvc system into the intake... pull the pvc and its oil screen, look down through the pvc hole, if you can see the lifter galley then the shield is not there and most likely the cause of all the oil in your intake... good luck enjoy the channel. car has come a long way keep up the good work 🐴
@@Thecraig909 you're welcome! also check the vent tube running from the throttle body to the fill neck on your valve cover for excessive oil... 90% of the time when installing aftermarket rockers the baffle/shield in the valve cover is removed for clearancing. good luck
As a former maintenance tech and a mechanial engineer who works on specifying bolt torques as part of my daily workload. THANK YOU for saying this. Seen so many people who just wrench on cars and go FT on everything, then have parts sheering and breaking off all over the place. There's a torque setting for a reason! Great to see good use of the correct tool for the job, including torque wrenches and correct settings.
Just some info from my 5.0 days.... Set timing at 13 degrees (stock is 10 degrees) with spout connector pulled. If that's a "bolt-down" rocker arm set, they are non adjustable. Just torque the bolts to spec. Love the Mustang content but it's making me want to get another one.
@BigB Blazer - buddy just gotta buy it.. I do love these mustangs hatchbacks. My dad got me a 84Capri 5.0 T-top when I was 17, man to only go back and buy the ones you loved the most.
You don’t just torque em down. With Pedestal mount rockers each cylinder needs to be on the base circle of the cam. Run your bolts down to zero lash. Then you need to see how much rotation it takes to get to torque. You need to be more than a 1/4 turn and less than a full turn. If you’re one way or the other you’ll either need shims or longer pushrods. For you guys that have just “torqued em down” and didn’t have any issues. You’re extremely lucky. It’s always good to check and do this right.
Had that issue with welded nuts snapping when removing some Subaru cam bolts. The lesson I learned was to let the bolt cool completely, say 10-15 minutes. Everyone says to heat bolts up, but when they get red hot from welding the thermal expansion is simply too much. I also welded something like 8 times on one of the bolts, until I left it for ages, came back and it cracked just fine.
Just want to let you know that getting that red hot heat down the length of the broken bolt makes it swell and break rust and aluminum corrosion into smaller weaker pieces. The hotter it is the easier it will be to remove. Second point letting the bolt cool will give you the best chance of not snapping the end off after welding. When a bolt is red or white hot it is very soft and easy to break. Let it cool down slowly and your patience will be rewarded.
I had a buddy in high school that got a retired fox body coupe highway patrol car at auction when he was 14. Him and his dad worked on it until he was 16, and that thing was a beast. 331 stroker, z303 “camzill” cam, heads ported by Mike Murillo’s shop, mini tubbed, 8 point cage, Tremec tko, and the list went on. It ran 10’s, but mainly raced on the street. It had single chamber flow masters, and the sound it made was wicked. 20+ years ago, we were doing everything we could as high school kids to run 13’s in trucks and 12’s or faster in cars. Now kids don’t even want to drive.
@@_Hanover_ Thanks for spreading your knowledge. Something I never knew, but always wondered why cammed cars would rev constantly. Good to know its not just for the ears!
The condenser did not need to be disconnected or come out. You can pull it back and rotate it out of the way. There's enough slack in the lines. Hold it up with some bungee cords.
Makes me miss the 89lx 5.0 I had back in the day, looked just like this one, but had GT tail lights and a GT wing on the outside. Motor was a stock bottom with Edelbrock Performer heads and intake and the Ford B-303 cam, tried the F cam in it, but to me the B cam just sounded better. 24lb injectors, CAI, 373gears, shorty ceramic coated headers with O/R H-pipe and dumps, and a whole bunch of other things I can’t remember. Hated to get rid of it, but family is more important.
Car looks great and sounds terrific ! had 2 of those when i was younger . one was a 92 GT with a vortech supercharger and the other was a 91 GT with a 351 fully built and tremec t 3550 which had way more power than the supercharged one . Had the same gray vinyl and cloth interior as yours !
Get you a few small solid carbide jobber length twist drills if you ever need to drill through that hardened stuff. We also use left hand drill bits at work and left hand taps to remove broken bolts
Chipping away on that project car. I love your channel as you stay with a project and as we get invested you don't just walk away from it and it's never seen again...
Back in the day, Ford used to sell an "Air Adjuster" which mounted in between your throttle body and the IACV, which you could adjust with allen head screws to allow more/less air in to compensate for your cam upgrade. It stopped stalling and surging at low speeds for me.
That honestly doesn’t get any better sounding, perfect. What’s your exhaust setup on this again? I’ve seen it in a video but it would take some digging
First time seeing your channel and brother as a mechanic you make me proud the golden mullet clear easy instructions and I can tell you’ve done this for a minute! Great job actual hero and new subscriber🙏🏻🤠
I have a question on the f303 cam for a fox body in California. Will it still pass smog? Sorry if it’s a dumb question it’s just that I’m rebuilding my engine rn and would like to know.
I easily passed California smog last week in a 95 mustang. Fcam, Afr165, cobra intake, tuned. I do have the magnaflow x pipe with four cats. I think I prefer the trickflow stage 1 cam vs the Fcam. I've passed smog with it as well.
@@pimpovic2 Pretty much the drivability. They are both fine but in my experience the stage 1 idles down a bit better. The f cam does sound a more aggressive to my ears. It does have more duration. I've only used both on basic h/c/I combos and think performance wise they are similar.
Might have been mentioned, but the lowers are known oil suckers with the small baffle at the bottom of the lower intake. Installing an oil/air separator between your pcv line and where it connects to vacuum may cure your smoking issue.
When I try to tell people the "proper way to do things, like not use faucet water for coolant for instance, they look at me like I'm crazy, or don't know what I'm talking about. Lol. the reasons i try to tell my friends these things is because I used to take the half-ass way, and it always bites you in the long run. had my cooling system fail because of mineral build up
Had a fox with the exact same cam, '69 Boss 302 heads, fuel injection, custom spacers for the FI intake to fit the heads, 10.5:1 compression, and it ran totally fine as a daily. Great video! Brought back memories.
If I wanted to just upgrade the camshaft on a stock car what else would I need to purchase besides the cam itself? Would I NEED to upgrade the heads and Intake as well or is that not necessary just for a cam upgrade?
You should always check pushrod lengths anytime you change anything affecting the valve train, which includes cam and lifters, rocker arms and even heads. It will affect where the rocker arm tip contacts the top of the valve. Hope this helps.
What amperage do you have your welder set to here? I get broken bolts out all of the time and I’ve learned to turn up the amperage for maximum penetration and to pump as much heat into that broken bolt as possible while welding the nut on. Welding on a nut is by far the best way. These 5.0s are known for the timing cover bolts getting corroded and breaking. I would spend the money on the ARP timing cover/water pump bolt kit. My 86 also smoked on decel just like yours and I eventually fixed it with new valve stem seals. Whoever rebuilt the engine before I got it replaced them but must’ve damaged them or used the wrong seals because a new set of viton positive stop seals stopped the smoking for good. I tried everything like catch cans and all kinds of stuff with the PCV system with no luck before I decided to change them.
Love the ‘Stang videos. As you probably know from Lucky and Tony, the best way to wake up that Foxbody is to put a 3.73 rear end. But then that mpg goes to 💩 really quick. 😎
@Frank Bonazza III well, part of that was implying that once he feels how much snappier it is with the 3.73’s, he won’t be able to keep his foot out of it. But yeah, if his commute to school is 55mph and under, he would probably still get decent gas mileage. 👍🏻
@@pimpovic2 This is true but it's also irrelevant. When the car gets to the point where its making enough power to go back to 3.55's, you need to ditch the 28 spline setup, c-clips, and beef up the housing. So, it all has to come out anyway.
@@jridenour31 that depends. I did my 3.55, 31 spline, and diff at the same time. Wasn't irrelevant for me, and I'm good for what the stock block can take, without snapping axles at the track, but still turning low rpms at cruising speed.
I know this is old, but I had an 89 5.0 with all the bolt-ons with hand ported stock heads with a FRPP B303 no tune and it ran perfectly. No bucks or hard starts. Later had an F-303 with TFS twisted wedges, no tune ran perfectly. Later went up to cnc'd Canfield heads and a Wolverine 222/232 cam, no tune ran perfectly. 1500 rpm cruising in 5th not a buck to be found. Didn't need a tune until I went 232/244 comp cam with a 15psi vortech S-trim. Drivability sucked with that big cam until it was tuned.
Ok 1 more I PROMISE!!! My first car was a '69 Mustang Grande with a 302. I swore up a blue streak when I first opened the hood and saw the cast iron toasters they used for exhaust manifolds. Ordered a full dual exhaust kit, Blackjack full length headers and turbo mufflers- from JC Whitney!!! Gained 50 hp made Mom mad when she had to borrow my car to go to work! But it sounded SO GOOD, actually pushed me back in the seat and impressed all my friends. Thanks for the wayback trip!
Are you using all coolant? Coolant itself has anticorrosion additives in it and when using 50/50 mix you get better heat conductivity then just coolant..
You’ve done an amazing job with that fox body so far. But that window trim all around is ruining your hard work. Can you take it off and wrap it black or paint it?
Put some anti-seize on those bolts, it works great for me. It sounds great! I have an X303 cam in my 86 GT, and I love it. It's been daily driven for years with no issues.
Never was a Fox body fan...but now I want one. That sounds sweet Craig. How much mileage did you lose on the daily with the cam? Oh, and do your neighbors complain about the "noise" 😂
those bolts can def ruin your day when your in a hurry. the welding of the nut on the broken bolt works most times, you seem to have had like the most trouble...just my luck as well. Glad you swapped it. I am about to put a GT-40 headed explorer 302 in my old 65 Ford truck. thanks for the inspiration.
I had a 85’ S10 blazer thru out the 90’s till 02’, with a ho 305 heads on a.45 over 350!! Had a 280 comp and it was a daily driver,I was a carpenter framer. So yes good move on saving your engine
I had a 1990 fox. Did a 306ci crane 2031 cam w/ 1.7 rollers. All the support mods. Car felt like a rocket. I have considered buying a 1990 lx just for fun. Enjoyed your video..
Just a FYI as a long time foxbody guy. Parts stores sell a Water Pump Stud kit that replaces all the old corroded bolts for your water pump and its only like $15 or something. Part number is 23744 from Dorman.
Try Black Magic quick detailer with Graphene. I use it on my black car and it's better than ceramic. But use it after you clay bar and it's so smooth and I noticed it helped to fill in little crow's feet cracks in my clear coat. Is that good. And it makes black cars look really awesome. The paint just gets deeper color
Show us the difference between the Loud peddle calf and the Clutch calf. I had an 02' ZO6 with a stiff clutch and my left calf was getting much bigger than my right.
All that welding and grinding on that engine with the top and motor ect open for all the spatter and grinding crap going into lifter valley and then intake ports not to mention dirt blowing off the driveway and garage blowing around and into motor!! Not recommended! Cover that engine with towels or something! ESHH!
Hey Craig the fox sounds great, I was thinking about using this same cam in a 68 302 that I’m building because it has the lift that I want but I haven’t seen anyone use it on a older carbureted engine, how do you think it would do in a mostly stock bottom end 302 with new lifters and springs that’s mated up to a C4 auto trans?
The F cam isn't spec'd to run on a carb setup. You'll need to do some research on the carb setup and check with Comp cams or Summit to see if they have something optimised for a carb. Pretty sure that that out of the Motorsport cams, the E is the one that will work well.
I had 2 foxes back in the day, one with a Crane 2031 cam and one with a TFS stage 1. I miss those cars so much. I love my 2014 GT but nothing sounds as good as those old pushrod 5.0s
I ran same cam and still got 22ish mpg, with 373s... that's running around 80mph from Montgomery, Alabama to Atlanta Motor Speedway (Fun Ford Weekend)... that's running 93 mixed with 5 gallons of 112.... you can smell that goodness
I think the cam in my Foxbody Mustang is longer duration. I need to clean up this engine bay. Love the sound of yours.. It does sound good and has a ton of get up and go...a lot of great info on your site!
I have been a Fox enthusiast for quite some time now, even own two at the moment. I have gone through many phases of cam interests over the years. Started off with the more the better and let me tell you, had a few nasty omes in there lol. My kick lately has been with the factory HO cam and build a really good engine around that. Been playing with this for a while now. Right now my 86 has a 347 with 10.8:1 compression, 200cc aluminum heads, rpm intake with a 2V, 500cfm Holley and the factory HO cam. My last setup I put on the dyno was a 9.8:1 306 with 200cc Roush heads, rpm intake and 600cfm double pump with the factory HO cam. That made 360hp to flywheel. The new 347 combo will be hitting the rollers this spring at some point and I'm pretty curious to see what that'll lay down. Anyways, Ford on my man👍👍🍻🍻
I have a 1991 GT . Has BBK shorty headers BBK X pipe cold air intake and 355 rear gears . All stock upper and lower intake and heads . Doing water pump this spring . Is it worth it to upgrade just the cam ?. Love the stang brotha
Thank you so much for the long idle clips and the sick drive-bys! Only thing didn't like about it was that there weren't more 😁. Keep up the good work brother!
Dude 1. So glad I found your channel I love it. 2. I just moved to Sacramento from Iowa so this whole emission thing is cray. How do y'all mod your cars without issue ?? lol
I had a E303 cam and a set of GT40X heads with shorty headers and 2 high flow cats in my 95 (last of the 5.0) ran fine for a long time. Didn't really kill me at the pump either (though I would imagine it would be worse with current gas prices).
ive got a 95 5.0 f303 ported p heads w/ springs n retainers trickflow upper n lower 75mm tb 30# pro-m maf bbk LT etc... and it will not rev past 4k. i am about to give up on this damn thing.. car idles fine etc. but pops n bangs when i try and rev it past 4k. doesnt rev smoothly / freely either.. feels "held back"... it sucks cuz i was hoping to have this issue resolved so i could go drifting this yr.
Currently stacking parts for my 94 GT vert. Got it cheap from family and it's bone stock. A few more parts and the budget build begins. All used parts but will transform it to mine
Pro tip weld a fender washer first before welding nut to remove broken bolt so it reduces slag and you can check if it's welded right.....plus much better control!
Weld a 3/8 washer to the broken bolt first because you can get a better weld, then weld the nut to the washer. Seems like when you try to weld thru the nut to the broken bolt you never get a good solid weld. ✌ usually works the first time.
I have a 5.0 302 with a head bolt sheared flush to the block maybe a few cm in the hole . I tried an easy out and it broke in the bolt. Can I weld a nut like you did or will it stick to the block ??
Nice car. I got an 88 5.0. The rockers look like the same i got in mine , Brand is Proform. Broke about 5 of them over the years. Mine is cammed too but i got the Fomosport X303 cam. Runs great but my idle surges now and again. Smooth for the most part. Been in there since 1996. Owned my mine since Feb 2 1993. Mine was black now is purple, since 97.
Awesome video man. I enjoyed it quite a bit. One question tho... why does your car look like it's sagging on the driverside rear end? Just an optical illusion, or due to the slope on the driveway?
ok, so now that you have a mild/medium cam in that foxbody - I see you have GT-40 heads on it as well. it will pull harder up top for sure, be a bit cranky in gear below 2200 rpm maybe. more initial timing will help. I had a stock shortblock in my 93 back in the day with a crane 2031 cam, ported GT-40 aluminums and a port matched cobra intake. switching to a Trick Flow intake really woke it up! could not believe the difference with just an intake swap. I would try to find an Edelbrock performer RPM II somewhere and install that. should pickup power with no downsides. great content!
Love Foxbody Mustangs, my first car was a '93 LX 2.3 Convertible, loved that car. Sold it and bought an '84 SVO, wish I had never sold that car, so much fun. I would love to get a 4-eyed hatchback 5.0.
Always use antiseize on water pump/timing cover bolts...makes it easy to remove if needed again my ride is a 1984 Datsun S12 with mild built ford explorer based 5.0 always use anti seize!!!
As others have stated, attention to detail would have been an issue. Dirt and such in an open engine. True, a Hyd roller does not need the same break-in as a flat tappet, but I did not see you prime the oil system either. I am not a fan of the Fox bodies, however, I like the powertrains because they fit into my 1983 plus ranger pickups. As long as you are happy with your toy, then that is all that matters. I have used the E303 for my 4x4 ranger, and the 91 carbed explorer 4x4 with just fine results. The F would have been more than what was needed for their applications. Maybe I am however curious to see what a Republic of California legal car like yours would sound like with a larger diameter exhaust setup. Yes, I am subscribed and thank you for the vids
Don’t forget to SUBSCRIBE!
Instantly forgot..
Sounds badass
What exhaust you running??
@@gamingwiththepros2057 Damn str8 it does
Which muffler you have I want the same for mine thanks
When I saw the mullet, I knew this dude meant business.
typical foxbody owner. wifes nose blood on his cutoff vest and a mullet. Probably works at the local Rice factory
In the front at least..
But he’s party in his rear.
🤣🤣
ROFL!!!!
Every H.O. 5.0 Mustang had a double roller timing chain from the factory I'm pretty sure. Great video! 👍
Except the 87.
The 87 had a steal plate under the seat nobody outside the factory about.
Sheeeesh
@@chrisreynolds2410 Who stole all the plates from the 87s?
It was your sister
Yup. And almost everyone who has pulled the water pump and timing cover off of an old 5.0 has broken a bolt and had to resort to the intro method 🤣
@@Jdowling357 true i broke the longest bolt also on my 289 lol
Thank you for always explaining the parts and their triumphs and failures, I think your engineering background helps out with this. You have an analytical mind and can translate it well in your words.
Huge old school machinist tip for removing broken bolts. I’ve been doing for many years. Heat the bolt with an oxy acetylene torch till cherry red. Map gas works too but takes longer. Use gulf wax (you can get at the grocery store)to quench the bolts at the block. Put your vise grip on it and 9 times outta 10 it’ll come out like butter. If it breaks again use the wax after you weld the nut on the end of it. Then replace all the hardware with stainless bolts.
That's exactly how I do it, with MAPP gas, heat that some-bitch, spray liquid wrench, heat it again and take my time back and forth with loosen/tighten. reheat or spray as needed. And you're right 9 outta 10 it works.
Was just gonna say this.. whenever I do busted exhaust manifold studs ( especially new hemis) heat em cherry red they almost always come out when you take er easy....good call!
Works every time! Great advice, and don’t skimp on the anti seize on the stainless hardware! 👍
Does it work or do people just think it works I looked up videos on this cause some old guy told me it works from what I seen people say it don't do anything different from just heating.
@@kpb711 I've don't even use wax. Heat em up red...grab a wrench, vise grips or whatever you got. Work back and forth slow at first and quite often the studs will pop loose. If it's busted below the level of the block I weld a nut on...mig usually. The heat breaks the bond between the corrosion and possible galling. Especially on an aluminum block with steel studs.
I had an 87 notch way back in the day, had like 150k+ miles on it. Had gears, exhaust, simple bolt ons, stock long block. Ran mid/low 13s. But it did have a bit of oil smoke on accel. Raced lotta people with that car. I'd get those that would try to slam me after they'd lose..."Hey, your car smokes a bit." I'd just tell em, if you can see the smoke, ur losin... That shut em up.
Have a 97 Cobra now I put intercooled Procharger on, 60lb injectors, tune, 430 RWHP and upper 11s @ 117 is quite a bit more fun.
What do you mean by gears
@@jacksondhicks2017 Um, 3.73 rear axle gears.
@@joelgoody3590 Oh gotcha
there should be an oil baffle/shield mounted on the bottom of the lower intake right under the pcv valve hole.. if that shield is missing the engine will suck oil up through the pvc system into the intake... pull the pvc and its oil screen, look down through the pvc hole, if you can see the lifter galley then the shield is not there and most likely the cause of all the oil in your intake... good luck enjoy the channel. car has come a long way keep up the good work 🐴
It’s not. I’ll look into where to get one. That’s gotta be the issue. Thank you.
Lower intake gasket leaking would cause that as well
@@Thecraig909 you're welcome! also check the vent tube running from the throttle body to the fill neck on your valve cover for excessive oil... 90% of the time when installing aftermarket rockers the baffle/shield in the valve cover is removed for clearancing. good luck
@@Thecraig909 wouldn't hurt to put a oil collector on there as well. will help with the carbon buildup.
As a former maintenance tech and a mechanial engineer who works on specifying bolt torques as part of my daily workload. THANK YOU for saying this.
Seen so many people who just wrench on cars and go FT on everything, then have parts sheering and breaking off all over the place. There's a torque setting for a reason!
Great to see good use of the correct tool for the job, including torque wrenches and correct settings.
Choppin like an old school kung fu flick with the bad dub over.
What the fuck
The fucking what
I fuckin love that lol
*moves mouth for 13 seconds*
Subtitles: Hey, you!
Jesus christ People!
Karate chop!
My God! Read a book!
Just some info from my 5.0 days.... Set timing at 13 degrees (stock is 10 degrees) with spout connector pulled. If that's a "bolt-down" rocker arm set, they are non adjustable. Just torque the bolts to spec. Love the Mustang content but it's making me want to get another one.
@BigB Blazer - buddy just gotta buy it.. I do love these mustangs hatchbacks. My dad got me a 84Capri 5.0 T-top when I was 17, man to only go back and buy the ones you loved the most.
You don’t just torque em down. With Pedestal mount rockers each cylinder needs to be on the base circle of the cam. Run your bolts down to zero lash. Then you need to see how much rotation it takes to get to torque. You need to be more than a 1/4 turn and less than a full turn. If you’re one way or the other you’ll either need shims or longer pushrods. For you guys that have just “torqued em down” and didn’t have any issues. You’re extremely lucky. It’s always good to check and do this right.
It’s making me want to work on mine!
Learned about spout connector on a 89 Ford F-150
The distinct 302 straight piped sound….love it. Not a better sound in the world if you ask me
4.6 ford
@@the__black__box for sure
@@the__black__box 4.6 do sound good but 302s best sounding v8
Had that issue with welded nuts snapping when removing some Subaru cam bolts. The lesson I learned was to let the bolt cool completely, say 10-15 minutes. Everyone says to heat bolts up, but when they get red hot from welding the thermal expansion is simply too much. I also welded something like 8 times on one of the bolts, until I left it for ages, came back and it cracked just fine.
Just want to let you know that getting that red hot heat down the length of the broken bolt makes it swell and break rust and aluminum corrosion into smaller weaker pieces. The hotter it is the easier it will be to remove. Second point letting the bolt cool will give you the best chance of not snapping the end off after welding. When a bolt is red or white hot it is very soft and easy to break. Let it cool down slowly and your patience will be rewarded.
I had a buddy in high school that got a retired fox body coupe highway patrol car at auction when he was 14. Him and his dad worked on it until he was 16, and that thing was a beast. 331 stroker, z303 “camzill” cam, heads ported by Mike Murillo’s shop, mini tubbed, 8 point cage, Tremec tko, and the list went on. It ran 10’s, but mainly raced on the street. It had single chamber flow masters, and the sound it made was wicked. 20+ years ago, we were doing everything we could as high school kids to run 13’s in trucks and 12’s or faster in cars. Now kids don’t even want to drive.
Haven't heard an F303 cam in a 5.0 in a long time. Brings back many memories. Be careful of cylinder load up in parking lots. 😉
What's that?
Sparkplugs will want to foul out at idle and cause a misfire. This is why ppl heavy cams will rev the engine in parking lots sometimes.
happens to mine a lot
@@_Hanover_ Thanks for spreading your knowledge. Something I never knew, but always wondered why cammed cars would rev constantly. Good to know its not just for the ears!
@@Randyboobandy69 that's called a crappy tune.
The condenser did not need to be disconnected or come out. You can pull it back and rotate it out of the way. There's enough slack in the lines. Hold it up with some bungee cords.
So how do you tune it.. I know it's prob OBD1 so not alot of tuning but you need more fuel for the cam
Makes me miss the 89lx 5.0 I had back in the day, looked just like this one, but had GT tail lights and a GT wing on the outside. Motor was a stock bottom with Edelbrock Performer heads and intake and the Ford B-303 cam, tried the F cam in it, but to me the B cam just sounded better. 24lb injectors, CAI, 373gears, shorty ceramic coated headers with O/R H-pipe and dumps, and a whole bunch of other things I can’t remember. Hated to get rid of it, but family is more important.
Car looks great and sounds terrific ! had 2 of those when i was younger . one was a 92 GT with a vortech supercharger and the other was a 91 GT with a 351 fully built and tremec t 3550 which had way more power than the supercharged one . Had the same gray vinyl and cloth interior as yours !
Get you a few small solid carbide jobber length twist drills if you ever need to drill through that hardened stuff. We also use left hand drill bits at work and left hand taps to remove broken bolts
Chipping away on that project car. I love your channel as you stay with a project and as we get invested you don't just walk away from it and it's never seen again...
Back in the day, Ford used to sell an "Air Adjuster" which mounted in between your throttle body and the IACV, which you could adjust with allen head screws to allow more/less air in to compensate for your cam upgrade. It stopped stalling and surging at low speeds for me.
Dude sounds great! Mine has a e303 and drive it daily work and everywhere you will love it.
That honestly doesn’t get any better sounding, perfect. What’s your exhaust setup on this again? I’ve seen it in a video but it would take some digging
First time seeing your channel and brother as a mechanic you make me proud the golden mullet clear easy instructions and I can tell you’ve done this for a minute! Great job actual hero and new subscriber🙏🏻🤠
Sounds great. Did you find exactly what you need to make it not smoke on deceleration? I curious to find out what the issue is
He fixed that a month or two ago. Pcb valve or something I think. At least that’s what I remember.
Edit- or maybe not?
@@mraycgz was thinking the same thing
It's probably valve seals and or guides
I have a question on the f303 cam for a fox body in California. Will it still pass smog? Sorry if it’s a dumb question it’s just that I’m rebuilding my engine rn and would like to know.
I easily passed California smog last week in a 95 mustang. Fcam, Afr165, cobra intake, tuned. I do have the magnaflow x pipe with four cats. I think I prefer the trickflow stage 1 cam vs the Fcam. I've passed smog with it as well.
@@Trendkilllx what did you like about the TFS 1 cam over the F cam?
Driveability? Rev range power delivery? Etc...
@@pimpovic2 Pretty much the drivability. They are both fine but in my experience the stage 1 idles down a bit better. The f cam does sound a more aggressive to my ears. It does have more duration. I've only used both on basic h/c/I combos and think performance wise they are similar.
Might have been mentioned, but the lowers are known oil suckers with the small baffle at the bottom of the lower intake. Installing an oil/air separator between your pcv line and where it connects to vacuum may cure your smoking issue.
Everybody needs one 👍👍
Hell yeah it sounds good. That is the cam I was going to go with but I may try out the Summit version.
When I try to tell people the "proper way to do things, like not use faucet water for coolant for instance, they look at me like I'm crazy, or don't know what I'm talking about. Lol. the reasons i try to tell my friends these things is because I used to take the half-ass way, and it always bites you in the long run. had my cooling system fail because of mineral build up
Had a fox with the exact same cam, '69 Boss 302 heads, fuel injection, custom spacers for the FI intake to fit the heads, 10.5:1 compression, and it ran totally fine as a daily. Great video! Brought back memories.
If I wanted to just upgrade the camshaft on a stock car what else would I need to purchase besides the cam itself? Would I NEED to upgrade the heads and Intake as well or is that not necessary just for a cam upgrade?
Cam, possibly new springs depending on cam profile, and possibly new pushrods
With the higher lift cam did you have to put shorter pushrods in it? Won't it change the valve train geometry?
You should always check pushrod lengths anytime you change anything affecting the valve train, which includes cam and lifters, rocker arms and even heads. It will affect where the rocker arm tip contacts the top of the valve. Hope this helps.
What amperage do you have your welder set to here? I get broken bolts out all of the time and I’ve learned to turn up the amperage for maximum penetration and to pump as much heat into that broken bolt as possible while welding the nut on. Welding on a nut is by far the best way. These 5.0s are known for the timing cover bolts getting corroded and breaking. I would spend the money on the ARP timing cover/water pump bolt kit. My 86 also smoked on decel just like yours and I eventually fixed it with new valve stem seals. Whoever rebuilt the engine before I got it replaced them but must’ve damaged them or used the wrong seals because a new set of viton positive stop seals stopped the smoking for good. I tried everything like catch cans and all kinds of stuff with the PCV system with no luck before I decided to change them.
Love the ‘Stang videos. As you probably know from Lucky and Tony, the best way to wake up that Foxbody is to put a 3.73 rear end. But then that mpg goes to 💩 really quick. 😎
@Frank Bonazza III well, part of that was implying that once he feels how much snappier it is with the 3.73’s, he won’t be able to keep his foot out of it. But yeah, if his commute to school is 55mph and under, he would probably still get decent gas mileage. 👍🏻
3.55 is the best gear for a driver. Plenty quick, keeps the rpms lower, and is future proof because it's boost friendly too.
@@pimpovic2 This is true but it's also irrelevant. When the car gets to the point where its making enough power to go back to 3.55's, you need to ditch the 28 spline setup, c-clips, and beef up the housing. So, it all has to come out anyway.
@@jridenour31 that depends. I did my 3.55, 31 spline, and diff at the same time. Wasn't irrelevant for me, and I'm good for what the stock block can take, without snapping axles at the track, but still turning low rpms at cruising speed.
@@pimpovic2 disagree had 3.73s in my daily driver with zero regrets, was fine on highway too
I know this is old, but I had an 89 5.0 with all the bolt-ons with hand ported stock heads with a FRPP B303 no tune and it ran perfectly. No bucks or hard starts. Later had an F-303 with TFS twisted wedges, no tune ran perfectly. Later went up to cnc'd Canfield heads and a Wolverine 222/232 cam, no tune ran perfectly. 1500 rpm cruising in 5th not a buck to be found. Didn't need a tune until I went 232/244 comp cam with a 15psi vortech S-trim. Drivability sucked with that big cam until it was tuned.
Car sounds great. The videos on this and the f100 are great. Keep up the good work.
I see what u mean with smoking on deceleration.could be valve seals and or guides
I love that sound. I wish you had gone into more detail on installation, like how to time it.
Not sure if you’ve covered this but what exhaust are you running?
Hey what did you use to tune the car?
Nothing, I'll bet it real lean up high.
That car has came a long ways. Keep up the good work.
Ok 1 more I PROMISE!!! My first car was a '69 Mustang Grande with a 302. I swore up a blue streak when I first opened the hood and saw the cast iron toasters they used for exhaust manifolds. Ordered a full dual exhaust kit, Blackjack full length headers and turbo mufflers- from JC Whitney!!! Gained 50 hp made Mom mad when she had to borrow my car to go to work! But it sounded SO GOOD, actually pushed me back in the seat and impressed all my friends. Thanks for the wayback trip!
Awesome video. My 1990 LX is cammed very similar. Still trying to figure out why I have high idling.
And it's a hydraulic roller engine, there is no "lash" on the rocker, just a preload if you will
Exhaust setup ?
Are you using all coolant? Coolant itself has anticorrosion additives in it and when using 50/50 mix you get better heat conductivity then just coolant..
When you weld the nut on make sure to pour water on it befor you try and turn it
You’ve done an amazing job with that fox body so far. But that window trim all around is ruining your hard work. Can you take it off and wrap it black or paint it?
I’ll have a video about redoing the windows. I just daily the car rn so I gotta find a break.
Put some anti-seize on those bolts, it works great for me.
It sounds great!
I have an X303 cam in my 86 GT, and I love it. It's been daily driven for years with no issues.
How do you tune it? Like is it the stock computer or a different one
I always weld a flat washer to the bolt then weld a bolt to the flat washer. It’s been very handy because the washer is easier because of depth.
Hows it running now?
Never was a Fox body fan...but now I want one. That sounds sweet Craig. How much mileage did you lose on the daily with the cam? Oh, and do your neighbors complain about the "noise" 😂
I hated these cars back in the day. They picked fights with everybody. Now ive owned 4 of them. lol
@@BruceLee-xn3nn ha
I loved them since I was a kid but most hated them and when I finally got one a guy told me they are the Honda Civic of the domestic v8 community.
Ive had 4, 1st was a mint condition black 86gt then a 89 i converted to V8 then a 93gt now a 88Lx all 5speeds
those bolts can def ruin your day when your in a hurry. the welding of the nut on the broken bolt works most times, you seem to have had like the most trouble...just my luck as well. Glad you swapped it. I am about to put a GT-40 headed explorer 302 in my old 65 Ford truck. thanks for the inspiration.
I never cared much for the LX, I like the notch and I love the GT, but yours looks great. What springs are you using?
I had a 85’ S10 blazer thru out the 90’s till 02’, with a ho 305 heads on a.45 over 350!! Had a 280 comp and it was a daily driver,I was a carpenter framer. So yes good move on saving your engine
I had a 1990 fox. Did a 306ci crane 2031 cam w/ 1.7 rollers. All the support mods. Car felt like a rocket. I have considered buying a 1990 lx just for fun. Enjoyed your video..
When I have silicone or a gasket to scrape I sharpen my painter's 5 in 1😇🙏💪😎👍
Just a FYI as a long time foxbody guy. Parts stores sell a Water Pump Stud kit that replaces all the old corroded bolts for your water pump and its only like $15 or something. Part number is 23744 from Dorman.
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO
Sounds great! The 302s have such a distinct sound.
Try Black Magic quick detailer with Graphene. I use it on my black car and it's better than ceramic. But use it after you clay bar and it's so smooth and I noticed it helped to fill in little crow's feet cracks in my clear coat. Is that good. And it makes black cars look really awesome. The paint just gets deeper color
When ever I take a bolt out of an sbf front cover. I order one as well as a bolt kit. Lmr has decent deals on them.
Show us the difference between the Loud peddle calf and the Clutch calf. I had an 02' ZO6 with a stiff clutch and my left calf was getting much bigger than my right.
All that welding and grinding on that engine with the top and motor ect open for all the spatter and grinding crap going into lifter valley and then intake ports not to mention dirt blowing off the driveway and garage blowing around and into motor!! Not recommended! Cover that engine with towels or something! ESHH!
Do you have a video posted covering your exhaust setup by chancew? i skimmed your videos quickly but didnt see any titles that stuck out.
Hey Craig the fox sounds great, I was thinking about using this same cam in a 68 302 that I’m building because it has the lift that I want but I haven’t seen anyone use it on a older carbureted engine, how do you think it would do in a mostly stock bottom end 302 with new lifters and springs that’s mated up to a C4 auto trans?
I’m no expert but probably pretty good. Run a torque converter and do research on google. It’s a lofe saver
@@3onthetree357 ok thank you
The F cam isn't spec'd to run on a carb setup. You'll need to do some research on the carb setup and check with Comp cams or Summit to see if they have something optimised for a carb. Pretty sure that that out of the Motorsport cams, the E is the one that will work well.
@@pimpovic2 that is the other cam I was looking at, thanks
I had 2 foxes back in the day, one with a Crane 2031 cam and one with a TFS stage 1. I miss those cars so much. I love my 2014 GT but nothing sounds as good as those old pushrod 5.0s
I ran same cam and still got 22ish mpg, with 373s... that's running around 80mph from Montgomery, Alabama to Atlanta Motor Speedway (Fun Ford Weekend)... that's running 93 mixed with 5 gallons of 112.... you can smell that goodness
I think the cam in my Foxbody Mustang is longer duration. I need to clean up this engine bay. Love the sound of yours.. It does sound good and has a ton of get up and go...a lot of great info on your site!
Some of the lower intakes dont have a baffle under the pcv valve and will use more oil due to it getting sucked up the pcv valve.
Cheap shit
In general I don’t care for mustangs, but I like this one, and I especially like the time you put into making this video for the world to watch.
Awesome video. I haven’t owned a 5.0 foxbody in 10 years but I’m loving all these videos that keep showing on my feed
No...No that was not a mistake, that car sounds crispy. 👍👍 2 thumbs up my man🇺🇸
I have been a Fox enthusiast for quite some time now, even own two at the moment. I have gone through many phases of cam interests over the years. Started off with the more the better and let me tell you, had a few nasty omes in there lol. My kick lately has been with the factory HO cam and build a really good engine around that. Been playing with this for a while now. Right now my 86 has a 347 with 10.8:1 compression, 200cc aluminum heads, rpm intake with a 2V, 500cfm Holley and the factory HO cam. My last setup I put on the dyno was a 9.8:1 306 with 200cc Roush heads, rpm intake and 600cfm double pump with the factory HO cam. That made 360hp to flywheel. The new 347 combo will be hitting the rollers this spring at some point and I'm pretty curious to see what that'll lay down. Anyways, Ford on my man👍👍🍻🍻
I have a 1991 GT . Has BBK shorty headers BBK X pipe cold air intake and 355 rear gears . All stock upper and lower intake and heads . Doing water pump this spring . Is it worth it to upgrade just the cam ?. Love the stang brotha
I have a stock 302 I put in a 79 ford f150 I won't to cam it make sound better what cam wood u go with
Thank you so much for the long idle clips and the sick drive-bys! Only thing didn't like about it was that there weren't more 😁. Keep up the good work brother!
Dude 1. So glad I found your channel I love it. 2. I just moved to Sacramento from Iowa so this whole emission thing is cray. How do y'all mod your cars without issue ?? lol
I had a E303 cam and a set of GT40X heads with shorty headers and 2 high flow cats in my 95 (last of the 5.0) ran fine for a long time. Didn't really kill me at the pump either (though I would imagine it would be worse with current gas prices).
ive got a 95 5.0
f303
ported p heads w/ springs n retainers
trickflow upper n lower
75mm tb
30#
pro-m maf
bbk LT
etc...
and it will not rev past 4k.
i am about to give up on this damn thing..
car idles fine etc.
but pops n bangs when i try and rev it past 4k.
doesnt rev smoothly / freely either.. feels "held back"...
it sucks cuz i was hoping to have this issue resolved so i could go drifting this yr.
Currently stacking parts for my 94 GT vert. Got it cheap from family and it's bone stock. A few more parts and the budget build begins. All used parts but will transform it to mine
Pro tip weld a fender washer first before welding nut to remove broken bolt so it reduces slag and you can check if it's welded right.....plus much better control!
Weld a 3/8 washer to the broken bolt first because you can get a better weld, then weld the nut to the washer. Seems like when you try to weld thru the nut to the broken bolt you never get a good solid weld. ✌ usually works the first time.
Yes, most definitely the best way.
Sounds great! Love that 5.0 exhaust note.
I have a 5.0 302 with a head bolt sheared flush to the block maybe a few cm in the hole . I tried an easy out and it broke in the bolt. Can I weld a nut like you did or will it stick to the block ??
do you have to change the cam back to stock to pass smog? Im up in Fresno county ca and they are strict up here
Nice car. I got an 88 5.0. The rockers look like the same i got in mine , Brand is Proform. Broke about 5 of them over the years. Mine is cammed too but i got the Fomosport X303 cam. Runs great but my idle surges now and again. Smooth for the most part. Been in there since 1996. Owned my mine since Feb 2 1993. Mine was black now is purple, since 97.
Really like the way you explain what your doing. Very good video. Got to love the sound of a cammed SB Ford, it's like a rock concert. 👍👍👍👍
Awesome video man. I enjoyed it quite a bit. One question tho... why does your car look like it's sagging on the driverside rear end? Just an optical illusion, or due to the slope on the driveway?
I said the same thing. Gangsta lean. My 88 notch was the same way. And I bought it new.
ok, so now that you have a mild/medium cam in that foxbody - I see you have GT-40 heads on it as well. it will pull harder up top for sure, be a bit cranky in gear below 2200 rpm maybe. more initial timing will help. I had a stock shortblock in my 93 back in the day with a crane 2031 cam, ported GT-40 aluminums and a port matched cobra intake. switching to a Trick Flow intake really woke it up! could not believe the difference with just an intake swap. I would try to find an Edelbrock performer RPM II somewhere and install that. should pickup power with no downsides. great content!
With a solid H/C/I setup that's a 12 second car. Lots of fun in the street N/A.
Aviation sealer is perfect for threads
What exhaust is on that? I'm goin to change the mufflers on mine but I'm undecided. Sounds awesome
Love Foxbody Mustangs, my first car was a '93 LX 2.3 Convertible, loved that car. Sold it and bought an '84 SVO, wish I had never sold that car, so much fun. I would love to get a 4-eyed hatchback 5.0.
Always use antiseize on water pump/timing cover bolts...makes it easy to remove if needed again my ride is a 1984 Datsun S12 with mild built ford explorer based 5.0 always use anti seize!!!
Thread sealer... There's water there
How did you know the valves will clear the piston and did your degree of Cam at the same time?
As others have stated, attention to detail would have been an issue. Dirt and such in an open engine.
True, a Hyd roller does not need the same break-in as a flat tappet, but I did not see you prime the oil system either.
I am not a fan of the Fox bodies, however, I like the powertrains because they fit into my 1983 plus ranger pickups. As long as you are happy with your toy, then that is all that matters.
I have used the E303 for my 4x4 ranger, and the 91 carbed explorer 4x4 with just fine results. The F would have been more than what was needed for their applications. Maybe
I am however curious to see what a Republic of California legal car like yours would sound like with a larger diameter exhaust setup.
Yes, I am subscribed and thank you for the vids
Im looking to get a 302 for my 94 ranger. Before install i wanna put a cam in it and maybe swap heads and intake. Yours sounds amazing!!!
Get an explorer
Weld them on good and walk away till later the day or in morning I have had 90 percent come out the heat causes it to shrink afylter heating
I always thought you have to change the pushrod length when changing cams?
It's crazy to watch what we did as kids 25 years ago but didn't have RUclips to document it.