So I'm trying something new. I am going to go back and cut down some of my older videos and keep them under 10 minutes, with a goal in mind of a "help you now" video. When I was stuck with a brake failure in my RV last summer, I needed a quick and to the point video on the repair, so I could do it in the field. I didn't have time to watch a 40 minute video on operation and testing etc. (like my videos all are). Of course I will be bring you guys some new stuff too but you are going to start seeing these and we will see how they do. I created a new playlist to put these under and for now am calling it "ScannerDanner Shorts" lol, I really need a better name that describes the purpose of these. I am open for suggestions. Thanks!
ScannerDanner I had a feeling this video seemed familiar. As far as a name goes I’m terrible at that lol. I’m sure someone witty will come along. But I do like the idea of it.
As a pro I really appreciate the time you spend on these videos. I also really appreciate the new shorter to the point idea as well as the more in depth longer videos! Great stuff as always! 👍
All your videos and training is great I hear you on the to the point vids though for sure. Danners 10 minute tips (just a name idea). I still have to sign up for the premium I bought the hard copy book a few years ago, gotta make time to get to the premium now. Good luck with the shorter videos it’s a really great idea.
The really cool thing about this simple video is that as a student of ScannerDanner Premium this is simple ground side switched circuitry and I can now troubleshoot something like this in minutes. It's great to not be THAT guy who replaced the solenoid and the connector and didn't fix it. Thanks for all you've done for us, Paul!
Really well done with the close up view of how to repair that connector. Also I liked the way you showed the driver test, an alternative to a test light. Using that method you're putting a small load on the driver circuit, making it a better test than simple voltage on a multimeter, and more empirical study compared to a test light .
Your videos are solid Paul, I don't think I could ever get bored watching your videos. It's so awesome that you still share your knowledge FOR FREE, and after reading some comments it's clear that SOME round heads just DON'T understand how valuable what you are sharing really is? So I'm confused, who the hell would hit the unlike button on this??? Anyways awesome as always! Thanks for all you have and continue to do to help us technician's become better at what we do!
Great stuff as always, Paul! I think these short vids are a great idea - now you've got something for everyone. For the people who are either in the middle of a project and in a hurry for info, or just can't sit through a 40 minute vid, these short ones will be right up their alley. For the guys that have a hunger to learn everything they can about OBD-II systems and diagnostics, they'll be all over the 40+ minute vids, and your Premium Channel. You're always looking out for us, Paul! 🍻
I've been using the day off to understand the concept of pulling a circuit to ground. After the first 6-7 minutes of this video, it clicked. Thanks. Merry Christmas.
I love all your videos my friend. Keep them coming. I am going thru the misfire waveform analysis on the premium channel. Always learn something new from you. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the video. I have been using injector noid lights which in most cases will conveniently plug right into the connector to test the circuit and driver. I find they are quite useful.
Perfect timing Paul. I'm working on a compass in a mirror that's not working and I found the same thing, a bad pin at the connector. I have ordered the pin and removal tool so lets see how I do. With this video I think I'll be fine now. :)
I pride myself by finding actual fault not changing parts since 1976. Sadly $100 per hour labor shop charge pushes many to do quick parts switch out rather than quality troubleshooting. Today's vehicle have tiny thin wires which quickly dissolve from road salt. I have put anti corrosion grease on all connections plugs pins etc.I use Stabilant 22 on connection s also. Nice work Thanks Good job.
hi paul watch some of your other videos where you test computer wiring using regular test light i have heard other you tube trainers ie ngk condeming this method i realy dont care what they say because your the man if you can clear up test method cheers
The key is knowing what you are doing. Know the current draw of your test light and know what the normal current draw is on the circuit being tested. Sometimes the incandescent test light is THE test to use. I just did a video last week (I'll upload it soon) on a Hyundai where the wiring was chewed by an mouse or rat where both the power wire and control wire of the variable vale timing solenoid were bare and touching each other. This is a serious red flag that the driver in the ECM may have been damaged. I would love to know how the naysayers sell this job. Is it, fix the wiring first, then hope the output driver still works? That is ridiculous! I'm not spending a dime of my customers money without giving them the whole story first. So, what do you do? You substitute the solenoid with your test light then command the driver on. Test light lights up tells you the driver is good! Now sell the job confidently knowing that when you fix the output wiring or even a shorted output itself, you'll know for sure you are not coming back to the customer to ALSO sell them a computer. I'm so sick of hearing this same bullshit, tired argument. (not from you but from these "trainers"). Even manufacturer flow charts are now teaching these methods. Swear they've been watching me lol
@@ScannerDanner your reply is very much appreciated great answer only increases my respect and high esteem of you keep up the good work there must be thousands of techs who have increased there knowlage and understanding of disgnostics through you the world over as i said your the man
Thanks to this video I found this exact problem on a 1996 Toyota celiacs crankshaft sensor connector just like how you did I tapped on the wires and one was broken thank you I really love your video thanks a lot !
Hi Paul, another great video thanks, I particularly found the bit about connector repairs useful. I have recently carried out what I regard as my first proper diagnosis & repair (I have to confess that I used to be a bit of a 'parts changer') using techniques I learned from watching your vids. I've done a video of it (title: "Renault Clio with P0105 (MAP Sensor Circuit Malfunction) Diagnosis & Repair." - if u have time for a quick look), and have put a link back to you in the description - I'll continue to that in any future related vids. Cheers. (BTW - I like your long vids! :))
I have seen those broken wires with perfect insulation. I have found them by bending the wire. It will be floppy at the break. I like the idea of shorter ones to the point like this with links to the longer videos.
Awesome video Paul thank you for sharing.. Quick question...If I wanted to manually send power to this solenoid if I remember correctly I can use my incandescent test light to battery positive and touch the signal feed. My question is.. Since I'm jumping the solenoid from battery+ do I still need to load the circuit? And how do I protect the driver
Great video as always Dan, the tug and pull method on the visual you teach is great information. Keep up the good work. Could you of used the scope on those wires too?
Could you try doing a training series with the Power Probe 4? I bought one off the tool truck this week, and seeing here that you have one makes me feel great about the purchase, but the instructions are quite poor and information seems to be limited on it
I had a 2007 in my shop today . Setting a code for vent solenoid circuit. The control wire was broken inside the insulation right at the connector . The pull test really didn’t work until I removed the protective piece on the back of the connector , then I saw a small amount of green , and as soon as I pulled the wire it broke off showing no copper inside for like a half inch .
I would clear my p0499 code and test my wires, both r getting 12v. I turn off my seleniod in the scan tool and automatically get a check engine light. Also on or off I still got 12v . Does that mean my driver/pcm is bad?
@kingvinnie2784 no sir, you most likely have an open control wire and many times, I've seen the control wire broken, inside of the insulation, within an inch of the vent solenoid connector
@ScannerDanner thank you for replying. I was able to find the control pin out wire to the pcm and unplugged it checked for voltage. I had 12v. I also unplugged the plug to the canister vent seleniod and checked voltage . And had no voltage at the pcm plug . Swapped out the pcm and it's back n working agian
armando nika that is under the car by the gas tank yes it possible someone poked the wire but it also possible that over the years the rubber seal wasn't sealing the best anymore or had snow piled up in there and when the snow melted it seaped into the connector even a good seal not 100% watertight in the north with snow and salt you see it alot especially on abs sensor wires
You should always use rosin core solder when soldering wires. Acid core solder is for plumbing. Silver rosin core solder is the best but as long as you use rosin core solder it will be fine.
How do you find an intermittent open circuit? MY Chrysler 300m does weird stuff. MY blinkers work randomly. My wipers will sometimes not work where it's incremental (the settings prior to constant running), even though low, high, and off all work fine. Then sometimes when you turn them off the blades stop in the middle of the windshield instead of coming to rest at the bottom...sometimes. And sometimes the interior lights will all come on for no reason at all then shut off a short time later. I'm thinking there's bare wires somewhere that are touching? An open would never work. A short would have melted something I think. I changed the combo flasher (under dash) and turn signal/hazard switch, and the problem persists (plus it doesn't explain the connection to the interior lights). So can there be an intermittent open? Does such a thing even exist?
Get a wiring diagram and find out where the common ground is to all those components (if it is a common ground) and start there eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Hello, So it's Saturday night and I have nothing better to do than watch ScannerDanner video's. Truth be told, I enjoy every one of them and learn something all the time. At times, I seem to think that some video's go on excessively. Having said that, there is nothing more educational than watching both your professional knowledge and abilities at work, your efficiency and sometimes the odd head scratching when it just doesn't happen as you might predict. > ScannerDanner Auto-Techniques. >> SAT's or ScannerDanner Auto-Troubleshooting Techniques. >>> SATT's
If you go to "U-Pull" scrap yards, pick up a couple of connectors while you're there. They give them away, and you'll save time having them in stock. New pigtails can be crazy expensive.
I picked up a Weatherpack repair kit years ago and it's been invaluable. Great video and solid dissection! I always seem to crack something or break the pin reatainer which is where the kits comes in handy!
Great idea to re-visit some of you older content and condense them......how about "Scanner Danner Do It Now" "Scanner Danner Pocket Fixes" but Scanner Danner Shorts is catchy enough
I'm posting this here as I'm not sure how else to reach you. Remembering your "struggles" evaluating VE, I thought this might interest you. It's only a 30 sec. read. ( mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17537/how-is-engine-load-determined ) (" Peak value of LOAD_ABS correlates with volumetric efficiency at WOT.")
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
So I'm trying something new. I am going to go back and cut down some of my older videos and keep them under 10 minutes, with a goal in mind of a "help you now" video. When I was stuck with a brake failure in my RV last summer, I needed a quick and to the point video on the repair, so I could do it in the field. I didn't have time to watch a 40 minute video on operation and testing etc. (like my videos all are).
Of course I will be bring you guys some new stuff too but you are going to start seeing these and we will see how they do. I created a new playlist to put these under and for now am calling it "ScannerDanner Shorts" lol, I really need a better name that describes the purpose of these. I am open for suggestions. Thanks!
ScannerDanner I had a feeling this video seemed familiar. As far as a name goes I’m terrible at that lol. I’m sure someone witty will come along. But I do like the idea of it.
As a pro I really appreciate the time you spend on these videos. I also really appreciate the new shorter to the point idea as well as the more in depth longer videos! Great stuff as always! 👍
All your videos and training is great I hear you on the to the point vids though for sure. Danners 10 minute tips (just a name idea).
I still have to sign up for the premium I bought the hard copy book a few years ago, gotta make time to get to the premium now. Good luck with the shorter videos it’s a really great idea.
I like that idea for many videos. Maybe with links to longer ones if folks want to learn more.
Great idea. Thank you very much.
The really cool thing about this simple video is that as a student of ScannerDanner Premium this is simple ground side switched circuitry and I can now troubleshoot something like this in minutes. It's great to not be THAT guy who replaced the solenoid and the connector and didn't fix it. Thanks for all you've done for us, Paul!
Easy money, this is the kind of stuff in love to do. Long time student of yours 🤙🏼 you taught me well and you don’t even know it. Thanks Paul 🤝
Really well done with the close up view of how to repair that connector. Also I liked the way you showed the driver test, an alternative to a test light. Using that method you're putting a small load on the driver circuit, making it a better test than simple voltage on a multimeter, and more empirical study compared to a test light .
Your videos are solid Paul, I don't think I could ever get bored watching your videos. It's so awesome that you still share your knowledge FOR FREE, and after reading some comments it's clear that SOME round heads just DON'T understand how valuable what you are sharing really is?
So I'm confused, who the hell would hit the unlike button on this???
Anyways awesome as always! Thanks for all you have and continue to do to help us technician's become better at what we do!
nice "round heads" lol, thanks Pauly!!
Great stuff as always, Paul!
I think these short vids are a great idea - now you've got something for everyone. For the people who are either in the middle of a project and in a hurry for info, or just can't sit through a 40 minute vid, these short ones will be right up their alley. For the guys that have a hunger to learn everything they can about OBD-II systems and diagnostics, they'll be all over the 40+ minute vids, and your Premium Channel. You're always looking out for us, Paul! 🍻
I thought that I watched this video before, then I seen your pinned post. I love the idea. But I also love the in depth 40 minute videos lol.
That won't be changing. This will ONLY be done on existing videos. It will allow me to get some of them cleaned up too.
I've been using the day off to understand the concept of pulling a circuit to ground. After the first 6-7 minutes of this video, it clicked. Thanks. Merry Christmas.
Why don't you keep your awesome videos as they are? I like them. The explanation is great.
For sure, I'm not changing a thing. Just editing some older videos with the original video in the description .
Great video Paul. I like your thought process of shorting some videos for fix it now kinda thing. Keep up the good work!
I honestly can say I learn something new everytime I watch your videos.
I love all your videos my friend. Keep them coming. I am going thru the misfire waveform analysis on the premium channel. Always learn something new from you. Thank you so much.
Thanks Paul! The quick diagnosis videos sound like a great idea!
Proud Premium subscriber , that was awesome how that wire just came apart like that .saweeeet
Thank you John for helping me make this possible!
Once again the great Scannerdanner. Thank you Paul and blessings from Brasilia.
A Saturday afternoon treat.
Get right to the point, I like it,this gives me a quick guideline to follow which saves me time and money!!!
Thanks for the video. I have been using injector noid lights which in most cases will conveniently plug right into the connector to test the circuit and driver. I find they are quite useful.
Perfect timing Paul. I'm working on a compass in a mirror that's not working and I found the same thing, a bad pin at the connector. I have ordered the pin and removal tool so lets see how I do. With this video I think I'll be fine now. :)
Always interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing, professor.
I pride myself by finding actual fault not changing parts since 1976.
Sadly $100 per hour labor shop charge pushes many to do quick parts switch out rather than quality troubleshooting. Today's vehicle have tiny thin wires which quickly dissolve from road salt. I have put anti corrosion grease on all connections plugs pins etc.I use Stabilant 22 on connection s also.
Nice work Thanks
Good job.
hi paul watch some of your other videos where you test computer wiring using regular test light i have heard other you tube trainers ie ngk condeming this method i realy dont care what they say because your the man if you can clear up test method cheers
The key is knowing what you are doing. Know the current draw of your test light and know what the normal current draw is on the circuit being tested. Sometimes the incandescent test light is THE test to use. I just did a video last week (I'll upload it soon) on a Hyundai where the wiring was chewed by an mouse or rat where both the power wire and control wire of the variable vale timing solenoid were bare and touching each other. This is a serious red flag that the driver in the ECM may have been damaged. I would love to know how the naysayers sell this job. Is it, fix the wiring first, then hope the output driver still works? That is ridiculous! I'm not spending a dime of my customers money without giving them the whole story first. So, what do you do? You substitute the solenoid with your test light then command the driver on. Test light lights up tells you the driver is good! Now sell the job confidently knowing that when you fix the output wiring or even a shorted output itself, you'll know for sure you are not coming back to the customer to ALSO sell them a computer.
I'm so sick of hearing this same bullshit, tired argument. (not from you but from these "trainers"). Even manufacturer flow charts are now teaching these methods. Swear they've been watching me lol
@@ScannerDanner your reply is very much appreciated great answer only increases my respect and high esteem of you keep up the good work there must be thousands of techs who have increased there knowlage and understanding of disgnostics through you the world over as i said your the man
Thanks my friend, very much
Been there done that several times! Nice job! That power probe is a real nice tool! I've got one, it helps!
Thank you Paul. Good job. I appreciate your videos brother. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thank you Billy!
Great content...just been watching the latest vids on your premium channel...
Thanks to this video I found this exact problem on a 1996 Toyota celiacs crankshaft sensor connector just like how you did I tapped on the wires and one was broken thank you I really love your video thanks a lot !
Well done, fast and clean, well explained !
I always look forward to your videos.
Hi Paul, another great video thanks, I particularly found the bit about connector repairs useful. I have recently carried out what I regard as my first proper diagnosis & repair (I have to confess that I used to be a bit of a 'parts changer') using techniques I learned from watching your vids. I've done a video of it (title: "Renault Clio with P0105 (MAP Sensor Circuit Malfunction) Diagnosis & Repair." - if u have time for a quick look), and have put a link back to you in the description - I'll continue to that in any future related vids. Cheers. (BTW - I like your long vids! :))
PRODIGY Sir ScannerDanner
Thank you very much
Take care and have a great Evening
PRODIGY Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I have seen those broken wires with perfect insulation. I have found them by bending the wire. It will be floppy at the break.
I like the idea of shorter ones to the point like this with links to the longer videos.
Awesome. Love it. You get me all Getty! Thanks daddy danner!
Shorts? Summer arrive early in Pittsburgh? Great as usual King Danner.
Hi Paul, I made the second video. thanks.
Good video Paul ❤️
I have always used a noid light when testing those type, also on ignition coil on plugs and other two wire systems.
Great video as always. 👍
40 minutos or 1 hr ☆☆☆☆☆ Good, perfect, Excellent.
Nicely done.
Great video, a voltage drop test across connector would also be a great test?
Wouldn't have helped you here. You would have just read 0v all the time
Wait a minute, you have all your old videos saved?? That's some serious storage space my friend 😆
For sure, but as a creator you can download a 1280x720 MP4 of any of your videos and that's what I'm working with.
ScannerDanner oh nice! I bet you can still render it in a higher quality and it'll still look good
Awesome video Paul thank you for sharing.. Quick question...If I wanted to manually send power to this solenoid if I remember correctly I can use my incandescent test light to battery positive and touch the signal feed. My question is.. Since I'm jumping the solenoid from battery+ do I still need to load the circuit? And how do I protect the driver
Pô muito massa mesmo
La Queso is muy predito
Great video as always Dan, the tug and pull method on the visual you teach is great information. Keep up the good work. Could you of used the scope on those wires too?
Great job Brother ! Thank you Paul
Long or short i'll Always watch.
Thanks Paul Great vídeo again 👍🔧☺
Could you try doing a training series with the Power Probe 4?
I bought one off the tool truck this week, and seeing here that you have one makes me feel great about the purchase, but the instructions are quite poor and information seems to be limited on it
I had a 2007 in my shop today . Setting a code for vent solenoid circuit. The control wire was broken inside the insulation right at the connector . The pull test really didn’t work until I removed the protective piece on the back of the connector , then I saw a small amount of green , and as soon as I pulled the wire it broke off showing no copper inside for like a half inch .
👍👍👍 Paul. A green wennie
repair connector outstanding job thanks
Where can I find that back probe pin for the tip of the power probe??
Thank you!
From my friends at AESwave goo.gl/5fqzjk
So a normal seleniod will have 12v to both wires until u turn it on with the scan tool?
If it is ground side switched, yes. If it is power side switched no
I would clear my p0499 code and test my wires, both r getting 12v. I turn off my seleniod in the scan tool and automatically get a check engine light. Also on or off I still got 12v . Does that mean my driver/pcm is bad?
@kingvinnie2784 no sir, you most likely have an open control wire and many times, I've seen the control wire broken, inside of the insulation, within an inch of the vent solenoid connector
@ScannerDanner thank you for replying. I was able to find the control pin out wire to the pcm and unplugged it checked for voltage. I had 12v. I also unplugged the plug to the canister vent seleniod and checked voltage . And had no voltage at the pcm plug . Swapped out the pcm and it's back n working agian
What brand wire stripper did you use?
I have them linked on my amazon page. You can find that link in the description section of this video
Outstanding job thanks
kentmore makes a crimp kit... pliers for that connector the conductor and weather pack solder next best thing
Nice job
Po448 may be open wire or pcm problem 2006 subie sti still messing with it
I guess there it was a tiny hole maybe in the pas someone pierced it because if not im wondering how humidity got there?
armando nika that is under the car by the gas tank yes it possible someone poked the wire but it also possible that over the years the rubber seal wasn't sealing the best anymore or had snow piled up in there and when the snow melted it seaped into the connector even a good seal not 100% watertight in the north with snow and salt you see it alot especially on abs sensor wires
hotrodpaully1 thank you Paul for your explanation more probably the rubber seal lost his property in sealing!
Good stuff
Do have a power probe and a smoke machine sdt- 206 autool
What type of solder do you use?
You should always use rosin core solder when soldering wires. Acid core solder is for plumbing. Silver rosin core solder is the best but as long as you use rosin core solder it will be fine.
How do you find an intermittent open circuit? MY Chrysler 300m does weird stuff. MY blinkers work randomly. My wipers will sometimes not work where it's incremental (the settings prior to constant running), even though low, high, and off all work fine. Then sometimes when you turn them off the blades stop in the middle of the windshield instead of coming to rest at the bottom...sometimes. And sometimes the interior lights will all come on for no reason at all then shut off a short time later. I'm thinking there's bare wires somewhere that are touching?
An open would never work. A short would have melted something I think. I changed the combo flasher (under dash) and turn signal/hazard switch, and the problem persists (plus it doesn't explain the connection to the interior lights). So can there be an intermittent open? Does such a thing even exist?
Yes, a bad ground (intermittent open) can do all of those things
Get a wiring diagram and find out where the common ground is to all those components (if it is a common ground) and start there eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
I have a code p0200 on my 2005 cummins 2500 truck. I have to fix something
is that an injector code?
Hello, So it's Saturday night and I have nothing better to do than watch ScannerDanner video's. Truth be told, I enjoy every one of them and learn something all the time. At times, I seem to think that some video's go on excessively. Having said that, there is nothing more educational than watching both your professional knowledge and abilities at work, your efficiency and sometimes the odd head scratching when it just doesn't happen as you might predict. > ScannerDanner Auto-Techniques. >> SAT's or ScannerDanner Auto-Troubleshooting Techniques. >>> SATT's
I like "auto troubleshooting techniques"
cool video
Sd can u plz help me fix my car no power to ecu been trying for 9 months no shop can find it Bob Brady couldn't can u walk me though 1day
Nice.
If parts store (Napa) close by.. get the new connector.
Or
Heat shrink then insert weather pack.
yep, a few mistakes on this one for sure
@@ScannerDanner
admitabtly.. I have done the same. Though. But customer car can afford the 1$ terminal (taxes and fees). :)
If you go to "U-Pull" scrap yards, pick up a couple of connectors while you're there. They give them away, and you'll save time having them in stock. New pigtails can be crazy expensive.
I picked up a Weatherpack repair kit years ago and it's been invaluable. Great video and solid dissection! I always seem to crack something or break the pin reatainer which is where the kits comes in handy!
THANKS 🚹 👍 👍
5 people dont like broken wires on their ground to the evap. XD
Great idea to re-visit some of you older content and condense them......how about "Scanner Danner Do It Now" "Scanner Danner Pocket Fixes" but Scanner Danner Shorts is catchy enough
why dont you just buy new pins . for every type of connector. good investment for future jobs.
Having an assortment would be nice, but not practical for me at this point as I do not see the same volume of cars anymore because of the camera
2:01 booom!!
The dip is necessary for a perfect fix lol
How do you get 5 dislikes? Great video, thanks.
haters
Sad!
After all these years, GM still can’t make a good EVAP system.
Ha, at least parts are easy and cheap to replace. Most of the time its the vent solenoid or the gas cap. Both easy to test and cheap to replace.
First!
4th? :-)
I'm posting this here as I'm not sure how else to reach you. Remembering your "struggles" evaluating VE, I thought this might interest you. It's only a 30 sec. read. ( mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17537/how-is-engine-load-determined ) (" Peak value of LOAD_ABS correlates with volumetric efficiency at WOT.")
Again no information just go buy my online book lol