get SD premium, I got the COVID19 and been watching a whole lotta SD the past week, will he save you 11 bucks/mo. with the learning you get from the awesome teaching? a resounding, YES!, get up at 2am, spend time with God then watch some SD!
I'm retired ScanerDanner and I drove a Semi Truck with a 53' feet trailer For a couple of years until this january 17 2020 that I got in an accident in Wyoming I got out of the road ended in a jacknife I 'm lucky didn't kill myself started again watching your videos I won't stop waching them because whatever I've learned with you I'm appling it and using it in an RV I bought the last year it is very old but the knowledges I got from you I'm appling them fixing this truck and thanks for all your videos and hard work you do thanks again god bless you
Very concise and informative video! I've got an intermittent P0171/P0174 in my 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, but It didn't resolve the issue. I now know I need to get a proper diagnostic done that includes reading fuel trim and O2 levels. Thanks for providing the diagnostic insight to troubleshoot this issue. Cheers!
Awesome Scanner! I found this video looking for the one where you found that nightmare vacuum leak under the intake manifold. I still haven't found that video but looking. Its also great information to know that fuel trims commonly look normal with a dirty MAF sensor and get worse with RPM increase while fuel trims would be high at idle and get better with RPM increase for a vacuum leak. I wish could download all your knowledge into my brain man.
I love your videos dude. I actually had a MAF problem on an impala a few weeks back. To keep it short, I discovered the air box had some screws left loose and a mosquito got sucked right into the hot wire sending it lean on both banks. I had also seen a diagnose dan video about dirty MAFs and felt like a g when I discovered it. Anyways hoping to get as good at drivability as you eventually, keep em coming!
Just watched this the other day! Dude I am watching all of your videos from beginning to end like I have literally started back at the beginning 9 years ago and I've been watching em one by one since! Dropping likes on every one and learning alot you are the man danner!
That is awesome! This is the way to do it man, but truly the gains will be because of your own hunger. The material is there but it takes the individual to grab the bull by the horns. Props to you, I look forward to hearing more from you along the way. Thank you!
Just the other day I diagnosed the heater circuit problem with my 2000 Cadillac Eldorado turns out the rubber insulators underneath broke allowed the pipe to slide over just enough to shave the wire enough to pull to ground and blow the fuse. Had I not have watched several of these videos before I would've just put an oxygen sensor on it and it still would've set the code being that the fuse was blown. Granted I do have a pretty good understanding of cars as far as mechanical stuff for instance I rebuilt the 42re transmission in my Dakota just on necessity I had to have the truck to work so I rebuilt it in my garage over a weekend had to use a friend of mines shop press but other than that nothing crazy. So now my diagnosing knowledge is becoming better and better thank you for that man! Sorry its so long but just wanted to let you know you're making a difference in the world keep up the great work!
Nice Paul. I like getting it all condensed down like a short little case study. On newer cars you will see ethanol content mismatch cause some wonky fuel trims too that seem a lot like a dirty MAF. Eric O helped me through my last one of those. Now I know to check that PID first.
So clarifying the operation of the sensor and result of it being dirty, my thought is this. please correct me if I'm wrong! Hot wire heats up and stays at a temp above ambient. Dirt collects on hot wire/resistor and creates an insulation barrier. Air flowing over the sensor doesn't drop the temp of wire as much so the sensor reports less air entering intake than there actually is. Engine runs lean and computer increases trim to accommodate missing fuel. Is this correct? Also, Is the sensor reporting a value to the computer that reflects the amount of amperage it takes to keep the wire at the set temp? You both do great work and I love watching your vids. Keep it up gentlemen. P.S. I love the honesty in your vids when you show your frustration or when you get something wrong. Great character! No body is perfect and admitting it shows what an honest person you are.
yes sir, the dirt acts as an insulator and keeps the hot-wire warmer than normal (less airflow). As for the current flow changes, this is all contained in the MAF sensor itself. BTW, the MAF sensor is really a MAF sensor and module combination. It is really a complex little device. So while the MAF contains and controls the increase and decrease in current flow that is proportional to airflow, it does NOT send a different current flow signal to the PCM. It sends a converted voltage equivalent. So for example at idle, low current flow to keep the hot wire hot, the MAF may send a 1v steady analog signal. Then at WOT, with higher current needed to maintain hot wire temp, the MAF "module" is sending a higher voltage signal
Thank you! and the post earlier, on "what it is NOT" was very enjoyable. Had some facebook buddies involved too. Again thanks, and keep 'er coming Paul.
Very nice recap guys! Really appreciate that, helped me review a couple of things, especially what I needed at this time! Keep up the great work money well spent! Hope you both and your family is well be safe!
Sure is! Hope to see you there. I offer a 14 day free trial so you can check it out before committing to pay. It's $11 a month after the trial www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
YOURE THE BEST PAUL !!! Also what’s your opinion on “ you’re not supposed to clean the MAF with break clean or carb clean use MAF cleaner only “ are you damaging the hot wire by not using MAF cleaner ?
Funny thing man, I was literally cleaning the maf on my brothers car last night, a 2001 es300, and it was displaying the exact symptoms you described in this video and it worked perfectly
I use a Launch Torque that I picked up lightly used for $1100. It does all the pid color graphing, combines graphs, troubleshooter, Bluetooth wireless dongle, almost everything the $12,000 Zues does other than the scope. But Picoscope, so not needed. All for less than the cost of one Snap On update. I sold my Verus once I saw what the Zues costs, i’m done.
I really like this shorter video format you have done. Love your fullsize videos too on SD Premium, but these smaller ones would be perfect for the quick recap to job your memory. Awesome work :) Btw I might have missed it, how did you work out if it was MAF or fuel supply issues from your data?
Glad you like them! Since this was a video from 2012, I wasn't using the calculated load data PID back then for a separating test as to whether this was an airflow issue or fuel issue. I would just pick the easiest one to start with, and since this engine did NOT have a fuel service port, I started with the MAF. You can also use a VE calculator to help you make this determination and I have since been teaching these concepts. Thank you!
Yes sir I have a question on an older car. I have a 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, it’s got a 0.030” over-bored stock crate 302, it uses ALL stock factory components, TFI Ignition, 2bbl CFI Fuel injection, EGR, A.I.R. Emissions system, stock style 2.25” Dual exhaust with new MagnaFlow Stock replacement Catalytic Converters with H-Pipe dual Thrusher 3 chamber mufflers and stock tail pipes. Its an OBD-I car and all the Emissions components under the hood have been tested using your methods and verified again for good measure! Previous to these new parts the cats were replaced with straight pipes with glass packs and turn-downs, the TAB & TAD valves were plugged and the air pump was gone due to the original was locked up and removed, ironically the car never had a check engine light and it did run a little rich though not enough to smell bad but it did puff black smoke whenever I went WOT through the gears. Weirdly enough the car still got 12-14 mpg in the city on regular 87 octane fuel for better than a decade before my recent repairs. I haven’t yet checked the mpg’s after the repairs. I recently parked the car , rebuilt the AOD-M trans, replaced the engine mounts, trans mount, alternator, voltage regulator, starter, all the engine sensors, the EGR was replaced 1.5 years ago and no check engine light after that and decided to replace all the emissions with new or reman parts to get the car back to stock form for better mileage and engine efficiency. The only parts not available to purchase from parts stores or from pull-a-part yards was the following electronic controlled vacuum operated solenoids TAD, TAB, EGRC, EGRP and TK (Throttle Kicker) for a/c idle up and throttle body choke. I have the following 2 DTC’s but never at the same time (33 = insufficient EGR flow) and (31 = EGR (EVP/EPT) circuit out of range) and yes before you ask I did remove the entire intake, cleaned the EGR crossover and passage up to the throttle body port and cleaned the EGR throttle body spacer plate and its passages as well, I also when I reinstalled the emissions piping cleaned the cross-drillings in the cylinder heads too. I’ve checked the EGR Valve for proper operation with a manual vacuum hand pump and it operates smooth and holds in place under vacuum, and every vacuum lines has been replaced with new plastic tubes and rubber hoses and smoke checked for no vacuum leaks on the entire vacuum system. I’ve checked all the original emissions solenoids electrically and for vacuum flow as directed by ALLDATA for Troubleshooting faulty vacuum solenoids, I’ve been dealing with this damn eye sore of a check engine light with absolutely no idea what’s wrong and tested all the emissions parts to find no problems. The engine runs good the car drives well and I have no other issues except the damn check engine light for those 2 DTC’s that never seem to happen at the same time. ANY HELP YOU CAN OFFER DANNER OTHER THAN GET RID OF THAT OLD CAR WOULD BE FREAKING AWESOME MAN, i had a subscription to your Scanner Danner premium but for some reason my subscription ended and PayPal is giving me issues while trying to subscribe to premium again, can’t figure out why.
this has a 3-wire EGR valve position sensor that sits on the EGR valve, vacuum controlled by an EVR solenoid (EGR valve regulator). What is closed EGR, EVP voltage? Those circuit out of range codes on these are from carbon deposits that build around the EGR pintle and seat area and it causes I higher than normal closed valve position because of the carbon. It should be under 1v from memory. The lack of flow code, we need to focus on this EVR solenoid for a minute. Also with the engine idling, if you open the EGR, does it get rough and almost stall? IT should. As for the premium membership, email me at support@scannerdanner.com with your user name and email and we can fix things from our end to get you back on if you like. Thank you!
ScannerDanner yes this is a standard 3-wire (5V Ref - Signal - Signal Ground) to the EEC-IV ECM and according to trouble shooting guides and ALLDATA EGR/EVP stands for EGR Valve Position sensor (located on the EGR Valve). The EGRC is the EGR control solenoid and EGRR/EVR stand for EGR Valve Regulator solenoid both of which are located with 2 other solenoids on a bracket with the throttle kicker solenoid and purge valve control solenoid mounted to two studs on the driver side valve cover. All the sensors use the standard (5V Ref - Signal - Signal Ground) with exception of the 2-wire temp sensors and 1-wire EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) or O2 sensor and all the solenoids use 2-wire (12V - Ground) and on this EEC-IV system is all ground side switched. I found 50% of the wires going to the ECM are all grounds to sensors or grounds to solenoids and 25% or more are signal wires coming from sensors. The rest must be power to the ECM and power out. NO SHIT right, I was just confused at 1st with ALL the black wires (grounds), green wires (signals), couple yellow wires which I assume are (12V in) and white wires I assume are (12V out). All and I do mean all of the red wires in this engine harness do not come from the ECM, some red wires are 12V and the rest are 5V from inside the car under the dash on the driver side above the ECM mounting location. The only way to distinguish which wire go to what component is the stripes on each wire and half the wires are solid not striped. As you can assume by now I had the ENTIRE harness and factory harness extensions under the hood out of the car with exception of the harness that goes through the firewall into the car under the dash. I found 6 factory (astronomically deplorable) splices that were soldered together with no type of shrink tube for protection, I desoldered them then used 14-16awg, 10-12awg, 8awg and 6awg shrink tube - butt connectors like I’ve seen you use and now all the splices are good and protected as well as checked for proper contact after the repairs. Ford screwed the pouch on those splices let me tell ya! As for the out of range code I did remove the throttle body, EGR spacer plate and intake. I cleaned the carbon from the EGR Valve passage on the valve with the Pintle open when I tested the EGR Valve with my hand vacuum pump. I also cleaned the carbon from passages in the EGR spacer plate and the EGR crossover in the intake manifold completely through from each side up to the port that goes up to the throttle body mounting surface. There was only carbon around the outer passages surfaces but by no means was anything clogged or restricted. The EGR Valve itself still looks new and the pintle had little carbon on it and the pintle seat was clear and defined. That’s when I went ahead and tested the valve for full proper operation and used the hand pump to open it 100% then let it sit to make sure the diaphragm held vacuum. I did all that work with ulterior motives due to the front China rail of the block were seeping oil that pooled on top of my water pump, so I fixed everything at once by pulling the intake off and cleaning everything and replaced all gaskets. Yes I believe the voltage readings I got before and after were somewhere between 0.65VDC - 0.85VDC, and yes the engine starts running rough if I apply vacuum to the EGR Valve with my hand pump. It starts running rough until it shuts down at between 50% - 75% of EGR Valve travel. As you can now tell I’m trying to somewhat restore this old car as I am a 80’s car and truck guy, preferably mercury cars and ford trucks, and yes I know mechanically Lincoln and ford cars in this time period were remarkably similar due to their drive trains being pretty much identical with exception to few components. Yes I will get around to emailing about the scanner danner subscription issue soon, with this pandemic going on I’ve put the car on the back burner temporarily because I lost my job at Cummins back in February and still haven’t been able to find suitable work. Thank god for pension, retirement savings, tax refund and unemployment services, otherwise my family would be suffering right now but we’re good for the duration as I search for work. I am tinkering around with the car, just no spending any considerable money on it right now. I’m only trouble shooting the EGR system and finishing the other repairs/restorations on the car now that I have time and I got the parts before I lost my job. Hence the reason I’m waiting on getting the scanner danner premium issue fixed, I’m holding onto money for living expenses but, I will get that issue fixed promptly after I get work again. I use your premium site when working on my grand marquis and my old for f250 whenever I have problems. I’ve used your info a few times as well at work before I lost my job as heavy duty diesel tech for Cummins. Your site made me to go to guy for anything electrical or theory based troubleshooting.
Hi Paul, thanks for the video. Just wondering what in the data makes you decide to look at the maf instead of a fuel concern? Do you have an idea of what known good g/s of the maf should be at WOT? Thanks!
Calculated load data parameter or a VE calculator can be used as a deciding test on whether it is a breathing issue or fuel pressure issue. I wanted to address that in here, but this being an old video, I wasn't able to add this information
MAP sensors don't get dirty like MAFs do. But if I see a lean O2 at WOT on a MAP engine, my next step is to look at fuel pressure. So yes, you can use some of the tests shown, on all engines.
I need to purchase your book , i already have the online book but i forget my password a while back . I like having access to the book for quick tests at the vehicle thanks for your time and if there is a new book coming out please let us know i would buy it in a heartbeat ! ! !
I can recover your eBook login information for you. Email me at support@scannerdanner.com with the name and email address you uses to register. I also offer $20 off the purchase of the paper version for eBook owners. Thank you so much!
Helps. Camaro ss, had 171, cleaned maf, "soaked" bay in starter fluid, no revs lol. BUT now have 171+++174 lol. I'll have to go check the car out again after he's driven ut all week as I DAMNSURE cleared that sucker.
yes! back when I filmed this, I didn't really have a solid test to tell me if it was an airflow issue or a fuel issue, but now I do and it is to simply look at your calculated load data PID (if there is one) and or use a VE calculator for your airflow indicator. If those are good, we go toward fuel, if those are bad, we stay with airflow (MAF, exhaust restriction etc) I have some videos on VE
Any other symptoms, like lean miss under load? What if there's no code, just a miss under load? Of course the signals should be monitored at this point (MAP/O2/MAF) but what values should be present? Agree, visual inspection of MAF can identify miscalibration issues. If it's running lean, should not damage cat converter?
Pls make or share video on Hall Effect CKP sensor for resistance check on Aftermarket and OE supplied sensors. As i have seen the Aftermarket CKP sensor make good Square wave but P0335 remains, should be because of not Perfect Resistance. This was my observation on 2007 BMW 320d
I never check resistance of hall effect sensors, ever. Here is why, a resistance measurement, when it tests bad, it is bad, but when it tests good, it can still be bad haha. That is the nature of the beast when it comes to the ohmmeter and electrical troubleshooting. You'll often hear me say "leave your ohmmeter in your toolbox"
I've cleaned plenty of them over the years and had good success, but I always feel like I have to buy the expensive cleaner, but since your considered a professional. I just figured you knew better and the other was just a expensive gimmick, always looking for a way to save a buck and get the same results.
Wondering if anyone can help. Trying to figure out if I have a bad maf. -10 Ltft at idle all negative while driving until it falls on it face. I unplug the vacuum line from the fpr & all the trims go around 0 at idle & look great while driving truck runs fine. Any ideas? Great videos sd btw I’ve learned a lot from you. Thank you.
ScannerDanner all trims pretty much went to -1.56 & sat there. Let off the gas & the truck stumbles a little. Have an exhaust tick that sounds like a leak that went away for a little while when it was running good. After putting at 3000 rpm it seem to have settled down trims for now. In spec right now but theirs a little miss.
My STFT is normal at idle, but has a negative correlation with the throttle position. So when my RPM is high, the STFT is in the negative, but once I release the throttle, STFT shoots up past 15% then stays in the positive for a bit while I'm on the traffic light. If I keep the car idling a bit longer, it eventually goes down to low positive or negative STFT. Could that still be the MAF sensor, a vacuum leak or fuel system?
Need LTFT numbers during these times too. Also, fuel trim analysis is really only done at steady throttle angles. Heavy Accelerating and decelerating we aren't really worried much about trim
@@Paul-Danner I'm getting a P0171 code. LTFT shot up to 30 at one point but I don't know exactly when it triggers because two freeze frames are inconsistent with each other. Once I come to a stop and it's idling, I've seen the STFT go to 19% and LTFT is at 14.1% with an idle oscillating from 730 to 750.
What about MAP systems? If the long term was at 20% and the short term was around 0 but when raving it up the short term goes up to 20% and the long term comes down below 10% What would the possible causes be there?
JHOOO PAUL, GIVE US THE TIME TO DIGEST YOUR VIDEOS. THEY ARE DAY AFTER DAY AND WE ARE INCAPABLE TO DIGEST. LOL, I AM KIDDING BUT IT IS TRUE. M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
Please help bro i got the short term fuel -10 and more and Long term fuel is 0.8 always with RPM 800 and 4.5 to 4.9 g/s with engine and rpm shaking what can be the problem? There’s no vacum leak i already check steam machine
ScannerDanner brother at 3000 rpm i have the short term fuel -8.6 to -9.5and long term fuel 0.0 with 13.11 g/s and when it go back to 800 rpm the short term was -7.7 and long term also -7
@@ScannerDanner the guy from service vacuum tested my car before refrigerant loading and said all ok. For few hours.. Now boiling under sun in my car. Where from to start checking?
i was watching a video last night of a lady building a breadboard circuit. she used thermistors. i was wondering if MAF use resistors or thermistors. here's her video ruclips.net/video/83rYV5AhmB0/видео.html
@@ScannerDanner what I mean is just a ohm meter using voltage reference . I don't own a obd2 reader can't afford one after mine was stolen and being out of work .
@@Portuguese-linguica ohmmeter would not help us at all here but a voltmeter could. I showed in the original video the voltage numbers before and after and we picked up about .5v at the peak (3.4 volts before and 3.9 after). Problem with a voltmeter though is it is not fast enough to do the test as I showed in the shop, but on a test drive you may be able to see the peak voltage with your meter hooked up.
@@ScannerDanner thank you . I'm trying to figure out why a 2010 ford f150 with horrible gas mileage and only seeing .1 volt coming from maf but 5v going to it .
Hey are you going to bring life videos to your classroom are you gonna put some RUclips again or now what’s the deal with that Are RUclips audience back into the classroom again
The original videos can be a little long and I do appreciate them. I do enjoy the shorter videos as well.
Always will enjoy the long version,but the new style is growing on me quickly. The knowledge shared in the full versions is still there.
get SD premium, I got the COVID19 and been watching a whole lotta SD the past week, will he save you 11 bucks/mo. with the learning you get from the awesome teaching? a resounding, YES!, get up at 2am, spend time with God then watch some SD!
Thank you my friend and I hope you feel better soon!
Thomas Mullaney
Get well Irish and come back strong....
i just fix a buck 2003 p0171 i went for the maf .
ScannerDanner is the man it was a fix 👍👍
Love the short version, simple and right to the point, nice job Paul.....
I'm retired ScanerDanner and I drove a Semi Truck with a 53' feet trailer For a couple of years until this january 17 2020 that I got in an accident in Wyoming I got out of the road ended in a jacknife I 'm lucky didn't kill myself started again watching your videos I won't stop waching them because whatever I've learned with you I'm appling it and using it in an RV I bought the last year it is very old but the knowledges I got from you I'm appling them fixing this truck and thanks for all your videos and hard work you do thanks again god bless you
Awesome!
MR. SCANNERDANNER,
YOUR INFORMATION AND CASE STUDIES ARE DIRECT ON 1000 PERCENT.
FOUNDATIONAL FACTS THAT ARE RIGHT ON THE MONEY. BLESS YOU
Thank you Sam!
Quick and to the point without unnecessary talk. Bravo
Very concise and informative video! I've got an intermittent P0171/P0174 in my 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, but It didn't resolve the issue.
I now know I need to get a proper diagnostic done that includes reading fuel trim and O2 levels. Thanks for providing the diagnostic insight to troubleshoot this issue. Cheers!
watch the videos I linked in the description of this video, they are exactly what you need
i have watched a few FT vids, and now i have another way of looking at it thanks to you. Great vid. Thanks
Awesome Scanner! I found this video looking for the one where you found that nightmare vacuum leak under the intake manifold.
I still haven't found that video but looking.
Its also great information to know that fuel trims commonly look normal with a dirty MAF sensor and get worse with RPM increase while fuel trims would be high at idle and get better with RPM increase for a vacuum leak.
I wish could download all your knowledge into my brain man.
Hello again Paul. I sure do enjoy being a SD premium member!
You've supported me for a long time Wyatt. Thank you for that!
Ya I got the
Amazing quick tips straight to the point! Thank you Paul and Caleb!
Thanks for the clear - condensed - coaching - cue !!!!
I love your videos dude. I actually had a MAF problem on an impala a few weeks back. To keep it short, I discovered the air box had some screws left loose and a mosquito got sucked right into the hot wire sending it lean on both banks. I had also seen a diagnose dan video about dirty MAFs and felt like a g when I discovered it. Anyways hoping to get as good at drivability as you eventually, keep em coming!
You will! It is only practicing your fundamentals and learning how to research
i like the "quickie" format and linking to the original video. i seriously wonder how many dirty maf's have garbage air filters. i bet most.
Just watched this the other day! Dude I am watching all of your videos from beginning to end like I have literally started back at the beginning 9 years ago and I've been watching em one by one since! Dropping likes on every one and learning alot you are the man danner!
That is awesome! This is the way to do it man, but truly the gains will be because of your own hunger. The material is there but it takes the individual to grab the bull by the horns. Props to you, I look forward to hearing more from you along the way. Thank you!
Just the other day I diagnosed the heater circuit problem with my 2000 Cadillac Eldorado turns out the rubber insulators underneath broke allowed the pipe to slide over just enough to shave the wire enough to pull to ground and blow the fuse. Had I not have watched several of these videos before I would've just put an oxygen sensor on it and it still would've set the code being that the fuse was blown. Granted I do have a pretty good understanding of cars as far as mechanical stuff for instance I rebuilt the 42re transmission in my Dakota just on necessity I had to have the truck to work so I rebuilt it in my garage over a weekend had to use a friend of mines shop press but other than that nothing crazy. So now my diagnosing knowledge is becoming better and better thank you for that man! Sorry its so long but just wanted to let you know you're making a difference in the world keep up the great work!
dood i just started concentrating on maf and pressure sensors testing again good timing thank you!!!
Nice Paul. I like getting it all condensed down like a short little case study. On newer cars you will see ethanol content mismatch cause some wonky fuel trims too that seem a lot like a dirty MAF. Eric O helped me through my last one of those. Now I know to check that PID first.
That is a GM thing with the ethanol content mix up for sure!
I like it. Plus you have the 'long version' as back up. Thanks
Cool! More quick videos with oscilloscope diagnostics please!
That short and to the point is very nice
New image of SCDanner. Top quality video.
Glad you enjoyed it
It's useful to have the both versions. Keep working master! :)
So clarifying the operation of the sensor and result of it being dirty, my thought is this. please correct me if I'm wrong!
Hot wire heats up and stays at a temp above ambient. Dirt collects on hot wire/resistor and creates an insulation barrier. Air flowing over the sensor doesn't drop the temp of wire as much so the sensor reports less air entering intake than there actually is. Engine runs lean and computer increases trim to accommodate missing fuel. Is this correct?
Also, Is the sensor reporting a value to the computer that reflects the amount of amperage it takes to keep the wire at the set temp?
You both do great work and I love watching your vids. Keep it up gentlemen.
P.S. I love the honesty in your vids when you show your frustration or when you get something wrong. Great character! No body is perfect and admitting it shows what an honest person you are.
yes sir, the dirt acts as an insulator and keeps the hot-wire warmer than normal (less airflow). As for the current flow changes, this is all contained in the MAF sensor itself. BTW, the MAF sensor is really a MAF sensor and module combination. It is really a complex little device. So while the MAF contains and controls the increase and decrease in current flow that is proportional to airflow, it does NOT send a different current flow signal to the PCM. It sends a converted voltage equivalent. So for example at idle, low current flow to keep the hot wire hot, the MAF may send a 1v steady analog signal. Then at WOT, with higher current needed to maintain hot wire temp, the MAF "module" is sending a higher voltage signal
Thank you! and the post earlier, on "what it is NOT" was very enjoyable. Had some facebook buddies involved too. Again thanks, and keep 'er coming Paul.
Pulled that freeze frame data from this video! Thank you
Very nice recap guys! Really appreciate that, helped me review a couple of things, especially what I needed at this time! Keep up the great work money well spent! Hope you both and your family is well be safe!
Thanks so much!
Nice ! I remember the original vid. Something about you pointing at the LT/ST trims with your index and little fingers snapped into my head ! LOL !
WOOOOW !!!
That’s the first I’ve seen the sensors.
Very interesting !!!
Excelente video profesor.. Saludos from Venezuela
It's a great idea of cut and short clips
Danner, your content is always very helpful! You gave mentioned a class that you teach, is that still available?
Sure is! Hope to see you there. I offer a 14 day free trial so you can check it out before committing to pay. It's $11 a month after the trial www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Pure gold info.
great video short and to the point
YOURE THE BEST PAUL !!!
Also what’s your opinion on “ you’re not supposed to clean the MAF with break clean or carb clean use MAF cleaner only “ are you damaging the hot wire by not using MAF cleaner ?
use the MAF cleaner, it is made for it and it doesn't cost that much more than brake cleaner
Loving the condensed videos Paul
Hey did any of the data pids lead you toward MAF instead of fuel or is that just where you decided to start? Thanks
Just started their on this one because there was no service port on the rail and I didn't know how to do VE testing at the time
Thank you Paul!
Great Video! like the new shorter format!
Early release viewer here -- thank you for doing this
Thank you for helping me make this possible!
Yes, I whole heartedly agree. I love SD premium, and this is just such a nice little bonus.
Where do you get the early release? I’m a premium subscriber . Dan
Have you signed up for my Premium email? We sent it to you guys through our email system but you have to sign up for it
ScannerDanner I’ll do that right now. Thanks very much for the quick response. Love your work mate.
شكرا اخي موضع جيد تعلمت منك الكثير اللة يحفضك
Thank you too my brother and may God protect you as well
Thanks Danner!
Funny thing man, I was literally cleaning the maf on my brothers car last night, a 2001 es300, and it was displaying the exact symptoms you described in this video and it worked perfectly
Thank you for this video and the information!
Glad it was helpful!
I love this new set up it will help people like us
older cars and newer cars keep it up
Keep it up that’s great
I love how you can tell how old the video is by the scan tool. Verus, Verus Pro, Verus Edge... Have you gotten a Zeus yet? I've heard people love it.
Actually people are saying that the MaxiSys Ultra has good customer info. gathering (VIN, plates, codes, name, etc...)
I use a Launch Torque that I picked up lightly used for $1100. It does all the pid color graphing, combines graphs, troubleshooter, Bluetooth wireless dongle, almost everything the $12,000 Zues does other than the scope. But Picoscope, so not needed. All for less than the cost of one Snap On update. I sold my Verus once I saw what the Zues costs, i’m done.
Professional 👍🏻
I have a question.. Should I replace the battery (-) after my car get fixed to clear the previous LTFT saved in memory?
yes, you should clear your memory after a fix, BUT it will also relearn on it's own, so it is not necessary to do so
I really like this shorter video format you have done. Love your fullsize videos too on SD Premium, but these smaller ones would be perfect for the quick recap to job your memory.
Awesome work :)
Btw I might have missed it, how did you work out if it was MAF or fuel supply issues from your data?
Glad you like them! Since this was a video from 2012, I wasn't using the calculated load data PID back then for a separating test as to whether this was an airflow issue or fuel issue. I would just pick the easiest one to start with, and since this engine did NOT have a fuel service port, I started with the MAF. You can also use a VE calculator to help you make this determination and I have since been teaching these concepts. Thank you!
Nice video, I like the quick tips
Thanks! I learned something new!
Good information Danner sir
Awsome video man. What about doing a volumetric efficiency test?
absolutely! That is the next step in my procedure these days, but not back then. I didn't really know how to use it when this was filmed
ScannerDanner. Oh shit I was getting a beer for the intro. But now I know a different way thanks
Thanks again Paul I love use the fuel trim is Great info to do a good diagnostic 👌🔧☺💗
Glad you enjoyed it
thanks for the shorter videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
More to come!
Thanks for the Video my Friend 🙋♂️
No problem 👍
Yes sir I have a question on an older car. I have a 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, it’s got a 0.030” over-bored stock crate 302, it uses ALL stock factory components, TFI Ignition, 2bbl CFI Fuel injection, EGR, A.I.R. Emissions system, stock style 2.25” Dual exhaust with new MagnaFlow Stock replacement Catalytic Converters with H-Pipe dual Thrusher 3 chamber mufflers and stock tail pipes. Its an OBD-I car and all the Emissions components under the hood have been tested using your methods and verified again for good measure!
Previous to these new parts the cats were replaced with straight pipes with glass packs and turn-downs, the TAB & TAD valves were plugged and the air pump was gone due to the original was locked up and removed, ironically the car never had a check engine light and it did run a little rich though not enough to smell bad but it did puff black smoke whenever I went WOT through the gears. Weirdly enough the car still got 12-14 mpg in the city on regular 87 octane fuel for better than a decade before my recent repairs. I haven’t yet checked the mpg’s after the repairs.
I recently parked the car , rebuilt the AOD-M trans, replaced the engine mounts, trans mount, alternator, voltage regulator, starter, all the engine sensors, the EGR was replaced 1.5 years ago and no check engine light after that and decided to replace all the emissions with new or reman parts to get the car back to stock form for better mileage and engine efficiency.
The only parts not available to purchase from parts stores or from pull-a-part yards was the following electronic controlled vacuum operated solenoids TAD, TAB, EGRC, EGRP and TK (Throttle Kicker) for a/c idle up and throttle body choke.
I have the following 2 DTC’s but never at the same time (33 = insufficient EGR flow) and (31 = EGR (EVP/EPT) circuit out of range) and yes before you ask I did remove the entire intake, cleaned the EGR crossover and passage up to the throttle body port and cleaned the EGR throttle body spacer plate and its passages as well, I also when I reinstalled the emissions piping cleaned the cross-drillings in the cylinder heads too.
I’ve checked the EGR Valve for proper operation with a manual vacuum hand pump and it operates smooth and holds in place under vacuum, and every vacuum lines has been replaced with new plastic tubes and rubber hoses and smoke checked for no vacuum leaks on the entire vacuum system.
I’ve checked all the original emissions solenoids electrically and for vacuum flow as directed by ALLDATA for Troubleshooting faulty vacuum solenoids, I’ve been dealing with this damn eye sore of a check engine light with absolutely no idea what’s wrong and tested all the emissions parts to find no problems.
The engine runs good the car drives well and I have no other issues except the damn check engine light for those 2 DTC’s that never seem to happen at the same time.
ANY HELP YOU CAN OFFER DANNER OTHER THAN GET RID OF THAT OLD CAR WOULD BE FREAKING AWESOME MAN, i had a subscription to your Scanner Danner premium but for some reason my subscription ended and PayPal is giving me issues while trying to subscribe to premium again, can’t figure out why.
this has a 3-wire EGR valve position sensor that sits on the EGR valve, vacuum controlled by an EVR solenoid (EGR valve regulator). What is closed EGR, EVP voltage? Those circuit out of range codes on these are from carbon deposits that build around the EGR pintle and seat area and it causes I higher than normal closed valve position because of the carbon. It should be under 1v from memory.
The lack of flow code, we need to focus on this EVR solenoid for a minute. Also with the engine idling, if you open the EGR, does it get rough and almost stall? IT should.
As for the premium membership, email me at support@scannerdanner.com with your user name and email and we can fix things from our end to get you back on if you like. Thank you!
ScannerDanner yes this is a standard 3-wire (5V Ref - Signal - Signal Ground) to the EEC-IV ECM and according to trouble shooting guides and ALLDATA EGR/EVP stands for EGR Valve Position sensor (located on the EGR Valve). The EGRC is the EGR control solenoid and EGRR/EVR stand for EGR Valve Regulator solenoid both of which are located with 2 other solenoids on a bracket with the throttle kicker solenoid and purge valve control solenoid mounted to two studs on the driver side valve cover.
All the sensors use the standard (5V Ref - Signal - Signal Ground) with exception of the 2-wire temp sensors and 1-wire EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) or O2 sensor and all the solenoids use 2-wire (12V - Ground) and on this EEC-IV system is all ground side switched. I found 50% of the wires going to the ECM are all grounds to sensors or grounds to solenoids and 25% or more are signal wires coming from sensors. The rest must be power to the ECM and power out.
NO SHIT right, I was just confused at 1st with ALL the black wires (grounds), green wires (signals), couple yellow wires which I assume are (12V in) and white wires I assume are (12V out). All and I do mean all of the red wires in this engine harness do not come from the ECM, some red wires are 12V and the rest are 5V from inside the car under the dash on the driver side above the ECM mounting location. The only way to distinguish which wire go to what component is the stripes on each wire and half the wires are solid not striped.
As you can assume by now I had the ENTIRE harness and factory harness extensions under the hood out of the car with exception of the harness that goes through the firewall into the car under the dash. I found 6 factory (astronomically deplorable) splices that were soldered together with no type of shrink tube for protection, I desoldered them then used 14-16awg, 10-12awg, 8awg and 6awg shrink tube - butt connectors like I’ve seen you use and now all the splices are good and protected as well as checked for proper contact after the repairs. Ford screwed the pouch on those splices let me tell ya!
As for the out of range code I did remove the throttle body, EGR spacer plate and intake. I cleaned the carbon from the EGR Valve passage on the valve with the Pintle open when I tested the EGR Valve with my hand vacuum pump. I also cleaned the carbon from passages in the EGR spacer plate and the EGR crossover in the intake manifold completely through from each side up to the port that goes up to the throttle body mounting surface.
There was only carbon around the outer passages surfaces but by no means was anything clogged or restricted. The EGR Valve itself still looks new and the pintle had little carbon on it and the pintle seat was clear and defined. That’s when I went ahead and tested the valve for full proper operation and used the hand pump to open it 100% then let it sit to make sure the diaphragm held vacuum.
I did all that work with ulterior motives due to the front China rail of the block were seeping oil that pooled on top of my water pump, so I fixed everything at once by pulling the intake off and cleaning everything and replaced all gaskets.
Yes I believe the voltage readings I got before and after were somewhere between 0.65VDC - 0.85VDC, and yes the engine starts running rough if I apply vacuum to the EGR Valve with my hand pump. It starts running rough until it shuts down at between 50% - 75% of EGR Valve travel.
As you can now tell I’m trying to somewhat restore this old car as I am a 80’s car and truck guy, preferably mercury cars and ford trucks, and yes I know mechanically Lincoln and ford cars in this time period were remarkably similar due to their drive trains being pretty much identical with exception to few components.
Yes I will get around to emailing about the scanner danner subscription issue soon, with this pandemic going on I’ve put the car on the back burner temporarily because I lost my job at Cummins back in February and still haven’t been able to find suitable work. Thank god for pension, retirement savings, tax refund and unemployment services, otherwise my family would be suffering right now but we’re good for the duration as I search for work.
I am tinkering around with the car, just no spending any considerable money on it right now. I’m only trouble shooting the EGR system and finishing the other repairs/restorations on the car now that I have time and I got the parts before I lost my job. Hence the reason I’m waiting on getting the scanner danner premium issue fixed, I’m holding onto money for living expenses but, I will get that issue fixed promptly after I get work again. I use your premium site when working on my grand marquis and my old for f250 whenever I have problems.
I’ve used your info a few times as well at work before I lost my job as heavy duty diesel tech for Cummins. Your site made me to go to guy for anything electrical or theory based troubleshooting.
Nice one man
thanks
thank you sir!
You are welcome!
Great diag danner👍
Hi Paul, thanks for the video. Just wondering what in the data makes you decide to look at the maf instead of a fuel concern? Do you have an idea of what known good g/s of the maf should be at WOT? Thanks!
Calculated load data parameter or a VE calculator can be used as a deciding test on whether it is a breathing issue or fuel pressure issue.
I wanted to address that in here, but this being an old video, I wasn't able to add this information
Super useful info! Thanks💯💪👏👍
thank you very very much. does this apply to MAP sensor or just MAF sensor ?????
MAP sensors don't get dirty like MAFs do. But if I see a lean O2 at WOT on a MAP engine, my next step is to look at fuel pressure. So yes, you can use some of the tests shown, on all engines.
@@ScannerDanner thank you sir
Fantastic
Thank you so much 😀
I need to purchase your book , i already have the online book but i forget my password a while back . I like having access to the book for quick tests at the vehicle thanks for your time and if there is a new book coming out please let us know i would buy it in a heartbeat ! ! !
I can recover your eBook login information for you. Email me at support@scannerdanner.com with the name and email address you uses to register. I also offer $20 off the purchase of the paper version for eBook owners. Thank you so much!
Helps. Camaro ss, had 171, cleaned maf, "soaked" bay in starter fluid, no revs lol. BUT now have 171+++174 lol. I'll have to go check the car out again after he's driven ut all week as I DAMNSURE cleared that sucker.
There are other reasons for lean exhaust codes
Nice sir from malaysia
Perfect! Thanks.
thanks a lot, great info
Muy bueno!!
Hi Paul i got question. Can hot film maf type be cleaned?
no!
Wouldent low Fuel Pressure allso give low o2 sensor signal at WOT? ... did you cut out the part where you messuret that too to be at correct pressure?
yes! back when I filmed this, I didn't really have a solid test to tell me if it was an airflow issue or a fuel issue, but now I do and it is to simply look at your calculated load data PID (if there is one) and or use a VE calculator for your airflow indicator. If those are good, we go toward fuel, if those are bad, we stay with airflow (MAF, exhaust restriction etc) I have some videos on VE
What does mean when ltft is high negative, between -10 and -14, at idle and increase to -5/-3 when rising rpm?stft near 0
Any other symptoms, like lean miss under load? What if there's no code, just a miss under load? Of course the signals should be monitored at this point (MAP/O2/MAF) but what values should be present? Agree, visual inspection of MAF can identify miscalibration issues. If it's running lean, should not damage cat converter?
low power but not really misfiring and yes, eventually this can end up causing converter issues
@@ScannerDanner I've seen converters overheated and melted from misfires, the other failure i've seen is getting contaminated (antifreeze, usually).
Pls make or share video on Hall Effect CKP sensor for resistance check on Aftermarket and OE supplied sensors.
As i have seen the Aftermarket CKP sensor make good Square wave but P0335 remains, should be because of not Perfect Resistance.
This was my observation on 2007 BMW 320d
I never check resistance of hall effect sensors, ever. Here is why, a resistance measurement, when it tests bad, it is bad, but when it tests good, it can still be bad haha. That is the nature of the beast when it comes to the ohmmeter and electrical troubleshooting. You'll often hear me say "leave your ohmmeter in your toolbox"
I also remember the original video.
Nice one thanks
Thank you for your support!
I learned something new, didn't know you could clean the MAF sensor with brake cleaner
I suppose the preferred method is MAF cleaner, but to be honest, the manufacturers don't want you cleaning them at all. Also, some are NOT cleanable
I've cleaned plenty of them over the years and had good success, but I always feel like I have to buy the expensive cleaner, but since your considered a professional. I just figured you knew better and the other was just a expensive gimmick, always looking for a way to save a buck and get the same results.
@@hookyjo72 If I had to pick, I would go with the MAF cleaner, there is some residue that remains with some brake cleaners is what they say
Wondering if anyone can help. Trying to figure out if I have a bad maf. -10 Ltft at idle all negative while driving until it falls on it face. I unplug the vacuum line from the fpr & all the trims go around 0 at idle & look great while driving truck runs fine. Any ideas? Great videos sd btw I’ve learned a lot from you. Thank you.
what are your fuel trim numbers at 3000 RPM in park?
ScannerDanner all trims pretty much went to -1.56 & sat there. Let off the gas & the truck stumbles a little. Have an exhaust tick that sounds like a leak that went away for a little while when it was running good. After putting at 3000 rpm it seem to have settled down trims for now. In spec right now but theirs a little miss.
How can you test if it is an fuel deliver problem?
My STFT is normal at idle, but has a negative correlation with the throttle position. So when my RPM is high, the STFT is in the negative, but once I release the throttle, STFT shoots up past 15% then stays in the positive for a bit while I'm on the traffic light. If I keep the car idling a bit longer, it eventually goes down to low positive or negative STFT. Could that still be the MAF sensor, a vacuum leak or fuel system?
Need LTFT numbers during these times too. Also, fuel trim analysis is really only done at steady throttle angles. Heavy Accelerating and decelerating we aren't really worried much about trim
@@ScannerDanner cruising around 55mph, I'm seeing stft within [-5.5, 3.1] and ltft at 14.8
@@ariansanti5076 slightly out of the normal range of +/- 10%
What is LTFT at idle? What are you chasing and why?
@@Paul-Danner I'm getting a P0171 code. LTFT shot up to 30 at one point but I don't know exactly when it triggers because two freeze frames are inconsistent with each other.
Once I come to a stop and it's idling, I've seen the STFT go to 19% and LTFT is at 14.1% with an idle oscillating from 730 to 750.
@@GrandmasMallCrawler sounds like a classic vacuum leak (sorry, I was replying with my other channel user name)
What about MAP systems? If the long term was at 20% and the short term was around 0 but when raving it up the short term goes up to 20% and the long term comes down below 10%
What would the possible causes be there?
Love your videos by the way👌
Is this a hypothetical question or is this something you are dealing with?
@@ScannerDanner something that I was dealing with a couple of days ago
👍👍
JHOOO PAUL, GIVE US THE TIME TO DIGEST YOUR VIDEOS. THEY ARE DAY AFTER DAY AND WE ARE INCAPABLE TO DIGEST. LOL, I AM KIDDING BUT IT IS TRUE.
M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
Please help bro i got the short term fuel -10 and more and Long term fuel is 0.8 always with RPM 800 and 4.5 to 4.9 g/s with engine and rpm shaking what can be the problem? There’s no vacum leak i already check steam machine
what are your fuel trim numbers at 3000 RPM in park, steady throttle
ScannerDanner brother at 3000 rpm i have the short term fuel -8.6 to -9.5and long term fuel 0.0 with 13.11 g/s and when it go back to 800 rpm the short term was -7.7 and long term also -7
ScannerDanner this is my short and long at 3000 rpm
Hey you used brake cleaner? I thought you are supposed to use maf cleaner?
use the MAF cleaner if you have it
Videos are like Scotty Kilmers' on brain steroids. Like the new format.
Hii
Simple and clear. Russia is watching you too!
Fuck. Just charge my Insignia AC system. Vacum ok, load ok. One day AC ok. Now I' m boiling in my car!
what are your pressures? bet you have a big leak somewhere
@@ScannerDanner the guy from service vacuum tested my car before refrigerant loading and said all ok. For few hours..
Now boiling under sun in my car. Where from to start checking?
i was watching a video last night of a lady building a breadboard circuit. she used thermistors. i was wondering if MAF use resistors or thermistors. here's her video ruclips.net/video/83rYV5AhmB0/видео.html
I wonder how hard this would be to figure out using brain power and no fancy tools .
No fancy tools needed. Just a basic scan tool that provides freeze frame and global OBD2 data.
@@ScannerDanner what I mean is just a ohm meter using voltage reference . I don't own a obd2 reader can't afford one after mine was stolen and being out of work .
@@Portuguese-linguica ohmmeter would not help us at all here but a voltmeter could. I showed in the original video the voltage numbers before and after and we picked up about .5v at the peak (3.4 volts before and 3.9 after). Problem with a voltmeter though is it is not fast enough to do the test as I showed in the shop, but on a test drive you may be able to see the peak voltage with your meter hooked up.
@@ScannerDanner thank you . I'm trying to figure out why a 2010 ford f150 with horrible gas mileage and only seeing .1 volt coming from maf but 5v going to it .
Hey are you going to bring life videos to your classroom are you gonna put some RUclips again or now what’s the deal with that Are RUclips audience back into the classroom again
My classroom videos are all on my Premium channel, I won't be bringing those to RUclips thanks!
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
thanks a lot, great info