How I FIX Used Power Supplies with NO Included CABLES!
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2024
- In a recent parts hunt we bought quite a lot of power supplies, and some of those were high end modular versions that... came with no cables. So today I go through my step by step process on how I make sure these power supplies work, and work properly!
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#PSU#GamingPC #PowerSupplies 
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I get my Tech YES Fix for fixing used power supplies right here. No extra cables needed.
Tech Yes Economics 101: high risk high rewards
1:06 Throw away perfectly good power supplies? Has he never watched Tech YES CIty?
Give em hell Bro, no way a PSU hits the dumpster unless it has a dell sticker or smokes from all orifices.
@@Willbme4EVA though, Dell server power supplies are unbelievably good and reputable. But well, their server market is pretty strong. I still don't understand how they make such solid server parts yet fail so much at making basic consumer-grade parts.
@@POLARTTYRTM server parts are way more expensive and contain higher spec parts. Plus a potential writ from a major company concentrates the mind.
You could re-pin using a pin extractor, the PSU side connector in the correct order for the high powered 12V stuff. No cable integrity damage, just a pin rearrangement.
I was thinking the same thing. I'm wondering why he had to solder.
Hey I forgot to mention that in the video, could you link me to the pin extractor tool set that is easy to do this? I find it extremely difficult to remove these pins consistently.
@@techyescity looks like we're going shopping!
@@techyescity A good 20 years ago I used to have an amazing pin extracting tools. The molex ones used a plunger, and motherboard one just slid right in, and the cable slid right out. I wish I could get those same tools again.
I bought a cheap pin extractor off AliExpress a few years ago, it was garbage. My roommate got very good at getting the pins out with two long sewing needles.
@@techyescity Also it's worth noting that some modular cables have resistors built into them, some of the Seasonic modular cables have the same pinout but are listed as incompatible with each other due to those resistors.
18:34 AWWW YEA! The Tech YES Jank is back!
A better way to change the molex cable would have just been to re-pin the power supply side of cable. If you look at the back of the connector where the wires go in there's small locking tabs. You push down on the tabs than you can pull the wire and pin out of the connector. Then you can just push the pin back in in the correct spot. Its really quite simple.
It's quite simple yes, though I find it really delicate to do, and hurt my fingers in the process. What tools do you use to do that?
@@techyescity it’s usually called an atx modding or pin removal tool. They can be found on eBay and aliexpress.
I have to make a correction as well as I was wrong. The locking tabs are actually pushed down from the front of the connector not the back. It’s been a while since I’ve done it. I watched a video on it just to double check.
This is without a doubt one of the best latest videos that reminds me of why I got hooked on Tech Yes City years ago. !!Salute
Priceless information here Brian. I always keep as many bits from PSU's as possible & dabble in this area myself. It's a gem of a way of saving & making money. As well as always having a back up PSU to fall back on. Priceless! Thx!
Thank you bryan for inspiring me to start flipping Pcs You are a God send. I literally imitate what you do. I want to start
buying used power supplies too
Dude, I'm no electrical engineer... But I think the issue of using random cables isn't the end of the connector.
It's actually the part that connects to the power supply that they change the pinout between different vendors.
I've used wrong cables. And it killed my GTX 980 Ti. And the worst thing was, it wasn't something that killed it immediately.
Took like a month.
You might get lucky, because from what I see they are mostly Corsair units. So I'm guessing they are all the same.
You have to look into the specs of the specific unit and the terminations.
Nevermind. Was watching as I typed the comment and you actually mentioned this exact thing haha
Keep it up. GJ
Lol what do you expect from windows optimization guy?
@@makeleletoulalan5604this sounds written by a angry old guy who needs those windows guodes quite often but is lazy and cant make a channel to get hate comments there as well deserved is for you
technically ypu are correct, that is the part that changes, but sonce you are not going to change the psu pinout, ypu modify when required the cable, so if the buyer wants to buy some sleeved cables, it will just work
it was not mostly, it was all corsair, it seems ypu dod not watched the video and felt like sharing your jayz2cents monent reusong cabled from a different brand and burning parts
sorry, but video was very clear, measure woth multimeter the correct pinout, do tests with a sacrificial pc and get the required results
@@makeleletoulalan5604 not sure what you're talking about.
If you're using the "stock" windows experience, you're the only sucker here
I think you've made some content this time that'll be ever green! I can see people searching this up over and over. AND it's so easy! Done a ton of connector probing to figure things out in cars and this is just so similar that I almost instantly memorized the correct voltages of most cables!
good use of soldering iron holder!!
You could also buy custom cables online with different colors that are spec to that model power supply.
Highly valuable information. Thanks for sharing!
I Killed 3 Hard drives that were connected on the same rail. On my power supply, it could connect in both directions for some reason, and I had it upside down and cooked them. I managed to fix them by buying new boards from Ali and switching out the BIOS chip. My 10TB has 2 chips I needed to switch, but I got them back up and running.
Great video! I figured out how to test the box of cables from various manufacturers I had sitting around.
Thanks man really great tips!
great video man♥♥
Awesome video mate very usefull Best Regards Andrew
Thanks, Bryan!!!
Btw,the chepo PSUs sometimes don't have 3.3v....
Man your Jacket is really cool😯
sporting that jacket is a statement, "hel ye, he got them all power supplies"
Wow. Those are some sweet units. All semi-passive, and brand new semi-passive ones are just insanely expensive these days. That deal was an absolute steal. That rm550x, is rated as one of the The quitest units in history. These are not just units, they are my go to units, for silence. Particularly the rm-x ones. The hx-i ones, has some serious internal measuring mechanism, so if you want to monitor your power usage, they are just insane. Back in the day, someone compared it to like $5000 equipment, and found the readings to be virtually identical. Just make sure NOT to run hx-i units in single rail, as they are unfused in that mode: Don't ask me why I know.
PS! Pokemon?
I've bought a tool (paper clip can also be used if modified) from aliexpress that allows to take pins out from the connector and re-pin them as you will. I was buying random modular cables and PSU's all the time, no issues if you'll check it with multimeter and an old potato system that you don't care at all. I've also resoldered those cables or CPU power cables on non modular PSU's if they were short.
Great video thank you bro
I usually repin with a pin extractor which is suitable for PCI-E and CPU connectors and gives a much cleaner result without risking cable integrity, never had any issues with that method. Though to me it depends on the value as to whether or not I'm going to spend my time on it, time is money after all as they say.
I get the impression from the recent issue with cabling changes that it was the main motherboard cable that was modified between versions in that case.
great video, thanks yes man
I picked up the same power supply tester donkey's years ago from MSY and still serving me well
Thanks!
No you don't throw high end corsair PSUs away, but you should have started the video with the note on Type 3/4 and pointed people to the corsair and EVGA cable compatibility charts. It makes it so much easier. Also you can just order the replacement cables from them(I would never buy cables from Ali). I would also never rewire Molex. Molex are often used for PSUs for non PC uses and can put through some serious AMPs even though PCs drives don't pull that kind of power.
Liking the bush on the face :)
WRT to 3.3V on the SATA connectors: most HDDs use just 12V and 5V for power; I am not sure if the SATA SSDs use the 3.3V rail though - a google search mentions that the majority of 2.5 inch SSDs are like the HDDs - 5V and 12V.
iirc some hard disks use that 3.3v, for some dell machines, cant remember
But still where did you get cables of the specific psu to test it? Because mixing the psu cables can kill the component in long term
no long term kill
he is making all with cables known to work with corsair, cables he had for corsair or cables compatible with corsair
if a cable is not working it or doesnt turn on the part or it burns it and shorts it on the spot
do not invent problems because people will believe it and start saying that the cable will kill things in a year, it is bs
all you do is check pinout and if it is wrong or you fix it or replace it
the problem is not test it before, assume it works and the plug a gpu that ends shorting or in flames ass other youtubes have done in the past
you saw it was checked and tested, what else do you want
Your potato build is using the same Corsair case that I currently build in. I love that case. I just replaced a Socket 1155 with an AM4 build. I didnt have to so mucb as move a standoff to make the change and put a 6750XT in it. I will use this case until it falls apart or PC's no longer require these desk anchors.
You can get a pin removal tool. Fiddly to remove the pins. No soldering required.
I took apart a massage gun that has a dead battery and spliced it into the 12v using a molex connector. I'm surprised at how well it works, but I think I need a resistor or something in line with the power because it will sometimes trigger the PSU to shut down when I apply pressure. I'm thinking the massage gun spikes current when it turns on and when applying pressure. I also noticed it goes from 20W-60W depending on how much pressure I apply to the tip of the gun.
A better method to check if these supplies are fully functional is to get a 24 Pins ATX Power Board , this way you can put a decent amount of load on the 5V and 3.3 Volt rails along with 12Volts. With only the 8 pin and 6pin you are limited to checking on 12V rails and even those without a load. I have a TX 750 that passes all the tests and even boots a PC but after an hour the system would shutdown or over a long period system would give memory errors, gpu errors the 3.3V rail was the culprit it would dip to 2.7Volts and back-up. Type-4 are the standard for all the corsair power supplies the change is from 2021 onwards and corsair has a nifty chart to show you what standard they currently follow.
Not sure about other brand PSUs, but Corsair actually does sell replacement cables for their PSUs, if I remember correctly. Just contact their customer support, tell them the model of your PSU and maybe they might need some other info like serial number or year of manufacture, and they'll direct you to buy the right cables from their store.
buy a pin tool and just depin the power supply connector end and slide them back into the correct spots. I can understand not wanting to do the 24-pin - but if you have a spare connector without pins, you can move one wire at a time to where it belongs. Then with the second (heck maybe even the first) 24-pin you fix, you've already profited.
I love buying Corsair units because they're all pretty much a single type of cable so you can get cheap cables from Aliexpress, even the older units have the same cables except the 24 pin but its a different connector so easy to tell
Corsair has at least 2 recent cable types.
@@mikesgarage394 What are those? I'm only aware of their type 4, type 3 were phased out a while ago, I don't really dabble in anything other than the standard ATX format so I don't know if there's a special cable type for sfx etc...
Easy enough to get the tools and parts to make custom cables, value add on the system sale too
Not heard of heat shrink sleeves.✌✌
Most PSU's that come with no wires are from? "Sir your PSU was faulty" coughs "we can swap that out in a jiff". The store puts in a new PSU, with no wire change, or the customer upgrades leaving the wires in place. Or a miner who just loves having xtra cables on a fairly used PSU.
I know VERY Little about electricity, but I have a question. Is your power supply tester testing load? If you have 1200 watt P/S and it passes these tests, is there a chance of it giving up the ghost at say 800? They load test car batteries to see if they have the cranking power to start a car. Does/should the same apply here?
I've never bought a used PSU, though I can see with the price vs new, why one would. I keep all the cables, main PSUs are Tier A, in their respective bags. It's interesting though perhaps if I end up transitioning from hobbyist to commercially this could be useful. Molex unless the case fans require it (Antec NX410s those are Molex) and a few older cases often I don't use those much anymore. Sata cables, if it's an older build or doesn't have an nvme. I'll often use on higher end to connect storage. But I would put the ones you certainly need down to the minimum for that pairing.
I mean for the hx1200 if you confirmed them working, buying cablemod kits is like the way to go. Puts the builds to a next level. Like mediocre looking hardware + sleeved cables will always look better than nice hardware with those default ass black calbes. And with white clables, the rgb really pops
Oh, and the RM550x and 650x are really wanted by server people, cuz they have insane low wattage efficiency, like at 60w and lower. I sould my rm550x for 300€ as they are no PSUs produced anymore with that kind of efficiency in low wattage
I got a RM 750x in the same situation, missing many cables. Bought some replacement cables from eBay happy days. Still ended up way better off.
I'm surprised you haven't got one of EEVblog's volt-meters?
I was told the PG signal is a old ATX standard, and that it is not mandatory anymore even though a lot of companies still use it, this means some PSU's that come back with a reading of 0ms PG signal can be totally fine, its common in FLEX and SFX PSU's that they just tie the PG signal wire directly to a 5 volt rail. So a 0 ms reading doesn't mean they are bad.
Yeah it's kind of meaningless. Some brand new higher end seasonic psus i tested had low signals around ~100ms, and they work perfectly fine. Same with a bunch of my EVGA Supernova G3s
@@jacksonbtb571 I have found a lot of higher end PSU's actually test between 100ms and 200ms so i dont get where he got the under 200ms figure means they are going bad, Maybe for PSU's that were made in 1995 that was the case. But all my higher end PSU's seem to be 100-200 like evga supernova and msi mag and thermaltake golds etc, its my cheaper PSU's that test in the 200-400 range usually.
Not sure why you didn't follow my advice from previous video the faulty psu you can use the cabling to make your own.
Very simple you can find pin layout for these psu online all you would need to do is crimp on the connectors (You have choice as well if you want custom length or to even sleeve)
This solves shortage of cables molex etc as well.
No soldering required not sure why you would think that is required cut and crimp very simple.
If it comes down to it, use heat shrink instead of electrical tape. It's safer and generally looks better
I'd do similar things if I get my hands on PSUs with wrong modular cables and go to test each pin and check if they're right. Maybe even de-pin the connectors instead if soldering together different wires as the soldering method can potentially have problems in high wattage loads where the thinner gauge wire can fail and/or get way too hot.
Failing those I'll just seek out the power on signal and +12v and Ground and use it as a bench power supply for random hobby projects.
My youngest daughter's PSU AND 3060 TI were both destroyed during a power-surge the other day, with my P.C. and my eldest daughter's P.C.s being fine. I WISH I had a tester during this, but I had to hook-up another PSU to confirm. In 36 years in tech I've NEVER had a dual failure like this, just goes to show it CAN happen to you too...I should have already had a proper tester...I will now.
I purchased a gigabyte 1000 watt power supply and it works fine. However, when using the power supply tester it beeps and shows a power good reading of 90. All the voltages are perfect. I seen a reddit thread that said some of these higher wattage power supply’s can throw a low PG reading due to the power delivery or something. Any ideas if my power supply is a no go?
I'd heard of one horror story, where a PC was upgraded and along with it the PSU
The PSU was the same brand but higher wattage.
Seemingly in the short version, it was a disaster the cables were not pinned out the same.
Even on the same brand of higher wattage, so theres that, if its common issue, i have no idea.
Cable Type numbers on Corsair power bricks.
11:09 Thank god. Your PC should never be smoking. It's bad for the PC and might cause Computer Cancer.
I really liked the old school PSU uptop intake and out the back exhaust on cases. Not so often they went poof, unless sat in an open window, in a rainstorm.
yup!
Love classic YES content. BTW: What music at 10:13 ?
Nigel Good "bastion part 2"
@@techyescity Thanks, Mr. YES - Love your Japan-shopping-tour. Greeting from Germany! - btw: wrong song, sadly 😞
Some enterprise and external hard drives use 3.3v to power down the drive for power savings. That's the only use of 3.3v that I am certain of off the top of my head.
I worked in a refurb shop and oh how I hate modular power supplies.
i used to solder psu cables the same way, went from using tape to heat shrink cause the cheap tape can undo itself after a while, now i use a pin extractor and re-seat the pins on the psu side to the correct layout for that psu,
If I come across something used, and it has modular cables, but it's not a Corsair, and it's some random lower end brand that's missing the cables I need, then I don't risk it for the biscuit, I'll just get a new PSU, as it's better safe than sorry in my book.
There are only so many Basic PSU makers. Slap a sticker on and call it yours. Its is not really like trying to win the lottery
@@Willbme4EVA Yes, but when it comes to modular Power Supplies I stick to well known brands like Corsair, or Seasonic, so there is less risk of blowing up a computer, or burning down a house, and when it comes non modular I try to do the same, but till test lesser brands when I comes across them to make sure everything is good, and use them in lower end builds where I know they are not being stressed out to reduce the risk of the PSU popping, smoking, or catching fire.
Without thinking about it too deeply I'm kinda curious why a power supply tester wouldn't identify a bad/incompatible cable? Unless the tester itself is made so generic it can't differentiate pin swaps depending on where the grounds are.
It would be far easier to just repin the motherboard side of the cable than it would be to cut and re-solder wires, plus it looks a lot cleaner.
Due SATA revision 3.3's Power Disable it's better not to connect 3.3V rail for HDDs.
You missed out some points.
wire gauge
some of those corsair have caps inside the cables as well for a reason.
those psu i bet still have warranty a lot of those units have 10 years (only issue would be they do like to have invoice)
Why are you soldering that is bodge job and not required you move the connector pins using tools.
Why rewire the molex conector from the Molex part when you can pin out the PSU end putting the cables in the right order... Take that tip for next time!
Bryan, with Corsair, type 3, and type 4 cables are the same, for sata, molex and pci. Only the 24 pin is different, I believe, but it may be the EPS too. Not sure on that one, but definitely the first three are the same.
My 750w g2 supernova evga PSU disagrees Bryan.
The Oems of superflower and seasonic etc made various models for corsair and evga depending on the tier and years
diaagrees on what? quality?
the thing is that the brand, to sell, matters alot
superflower and seasonic are decent, but you know that the buyer will prefer a good corsair and no one wikl check if the real manufacturer was delta, or any other unknown to most people brand
Mixing cables from different psu is a safety risk.
Do not expect a 10 yo used psu to handle the same max load as a new unit.
the problem is mix brands, it usually end in flames, if you need new cables, buy them if you have doubts
The 24 and 8 pins should be standard. The problem child’s are the molex and sata.
People were upset about some cables? lol and my brother who literally took random psu cable, did a bunch of measurements and just soldered them to his old cable that was cut in half from heat damage for whatever reason. And he proceeded to use the same computer for years... while highly overclocked, and it ran completely fine with zero problems until he just upgraded his whole computer a few months ago. Engineers... they can come up with some sketchy solutions sometimes. What he did was the embodiment of "trust me, I'm an engineer." I was baffled looking at him doing it and thinking "no way someone would ever do this to their expensive computer, man." But yeah, he did it.
Why not? If cable was cut the pin out is the same the cable only exte nds the signal, the problem is the pin out at the psu is not the same fir every brand...
@@Saiohleet why not? because he could just have got another cable and wait a few days for it to get shipped to us instead of doing something so sketchy. I still can't believe he ran that computer highly overclocked with fcking soldered cables for YEARS lmao.
Hey if you're 1 knowledgeable/skilled enough and 2 are crazy enough, why not?
I got the craziness, the rest not so much 💀
@@crisscrossam i would definitely NOT do that even with all the knowledge. Nope, not in my expensive computer at least. If it was a throwaway obsolete computer, why not.
I agree with you 100%. I’ve soldered CPU and GPUs cable straight on to the 24Pin too (like the YES man itself did back in the day) and the PCs are still running to this day. Some even bios modded.
Ler that drive cool down and it may yet live, my mother had a pc that all the fans quit working and she never turned it off well it was putting out a burning smell. The drive was melted on the outside yet I got all the information off it and kept the windows lincence going for over 15 years swapping from pc to pc.
that is not jist a volmeter, it is a multimeter, it also measure other things, not just voltage, very handy, i have a more simple one model from uni t brand
I would just buy a new set of cables for the higher end units , they are worth it.
well, yes, but if he had some of those, why not use them there? if you dont have any, just buy them for sure
there is people making those cables also, but you need the connectors and the wires, and of course, the knowledge and time
Look into a pin extractor tool so you don't have to cut and solder
Shame you're down in Nerang. I've got a bunch of mostly 775 boards/cpu/heatsink/memory I just plain don't want anymore.
He has previously stated that he no longer flips 775, since they don't support avx2
@@Takashita_Sukakoki Ok, cool. Might bin it all in the end as ebay is such a pita. Or I might just screw with those other ebayer's that are listing old stuff for stupid high prices by listing it all practically free. I have a lot of other much much older stuff too and what they list at, well, it's still there months later.
You should buy the tools and you could just pull the pins out and put the in the right spot
Good thing there weren't any Dell power supplies.
Don't cut and solder. Just remove the pins with a cheap pin extractor kit and put them into the correct order.
W
Install cables……..test with tester………use em’.
I avoid doing this by buying cheap quality PSU from a company like Apevia.
Got this on sale for $35 dollars Apevia ATX-ES700-RGB Essence 700W ATX Semi-Modular Gaming Power Supply.
I have been using it since the past 7 months with no issues.
apevia is a brand that i often hear that doesnt offer the watts it says and it doesnt have good enough security measures
someone said, you know why they are cheap
@arch1107 Not true, I have a 600w and a 700w PSU. The problem was a 500w Apevia that was marketed poorly, people started to buy them and test them by overloading it so it would blow up. It was supposed to run anything under 300w but people bought it because of the 500w marketing to test other components and it blew up mostly.
Remember, a cable that works with one PSU doesn't necessarily work with all PSUs. Manufacturers might have changed their pinout arrangement over time. That's why when you order a set of custom cables you have to specify the exact model PSU (I think sometimes even the serial number) you're using.
Why not get a ATX Power Supply Pin Removal & Extraction Tool. No soldering is needed. And it is easy to do. I can not post links outside RUclips but I found this video. It is just a tip though. I guess you have one already. With this tool you can rearrange any cable also high wattage ones because you do not cut any cable
ruclips.net/video/Sm2Nsz-xJ7o/видео.html
or you can make one, if you cant wait to get such tool
pinouts should be standardized. if the EU got apple to switch to usb-c, then psu manufacturers shouldn't be a problem
idk if anyone said this but corsair sells aftermarket individually sleeved cable kits. I picked one up for my SFX psu from them for 39.99 in the US.
Dumbass suggestion, that cost is retarded and totally defeats the budget purpose💀
Dumbass suggestion...thay price is outrageous and totally defeats the budget purpose 💀
This is actually why I really don't actually like the whole modular PSU trend
Yeah they save spare cables being in case but add bit of bulk Infront of the PSU meaning if you are using all the cables they actually take up more space
Plus 90% of cases have PSU basement to stick extra cables anyway so it renders it largely pointless
But it is all that really available on high end and even the mid range for good few years now
yes, it created a problem down the road, it was only a problem for small micro atx or mini itx, the rest of cases have always been big enough to hold the extra cables without issues
Next time just buy a molex pin removal tool and put the pins in the correct positions...mush easier, professional, and not janky!!
well, it is just some plastic tabs holding some metalic tabs, you can make a tool by bending some metal in the right shape if you dont want to buy any tool
The way I like to fix molex 4 pin is to throw them in the trash.
Sorry... you could of totally used a paperclip / depinning tool and swaped the wires on the psu end to match. why would you solder.
I think someone should regulate those cable to be universal for all this is just silly and too much of a hassle for every consumer.
In this day and age all rules and regulations are being pushed to the limits. Just waiting for my house insurance to ask me if I have an Nvidia products installed in my house?
I think asianometry or pcworld did a video about it. it was when atx 3.0 was being introduced as a new specification. All these PSU companies developed their own standards to meet their profit margins starting out and now they don't want to change stuff because of all the investments made already.
i wouldn't buy corsair new let alone second hand
they use junk capacitors which will kill your components if not immediately then later one, especially hard drivers
compared to seasonic and cooler master
well, to be fair, all brands do that, because all brands buy and relabel their psus
i personally had the problems ypu describe but with thermaltake and i never bougth a singoe thing from them after losing 3 psus with similar problems or voltage regulators exploding on the smallest loads possible
if you say that corsair shpuld be avoided, what brand do you recomend, evga?
Corsair uses different OEMs at different pricepoints for different skus usually Super flower and Seasonic ones give out very long warranties on their gold and titanium stuff
18:09 You know you could just repin them without using a soldering iron. It would look professional and not the way you did it.
At least get some black tape!
Think you shouldve tested them with full load for an hour to be really sure that they work
Testing PSUs ONLY under idle conditions is a waste time in my book. Sure you get the obvious duds, but I wouldn't touch even one of your tested ones with a 10 feet pole. I ve seen it myself - PSU works perfectly fine under idle only to crap out under different load scenarios. Lesson learned - never buy used PSUs. You can get decent 500W units for 50-60€ from reputable brands like Seasonic new.
well, you saw them powering the pc, he will later build a pc to sell and offer warranty on it, isnt that enough for you?
@@betag24cn 1) A C2Qsystem (~20 years old) had a totally different load distribution under (full) load than "modern" system. Just compare 20 year old PSUs (3,3V and 5V) with modern ones (mainly 12V).
2) Booting in BIOS hardly puts a strain on a PSU especially for PSU with 500W or higher rating.
3) To really test a PSU you should even also test fast switching loads all the way up to ~110%.
@@folterknecht1768 you want to professionally complain, you could make a youtube channel and try to make for a living with that
the warranty means nothing to you it seems, you should buy asus
m8, just buy dem cables off taobao. They are like 3USD including shipping.
Are those cables rated properly though? If you don't use proper gauge the wires will get too hot.
If you do that then you are asking even more for magic electronic smoke. If you have to buy cables, get them from the manufacturer for that specific unit. Pretty much all of them sell extended cables, extensions and normal cables.
if you want to risk your wife and kids lives, sure!
Absolute insanity. Do not listen to this!
@@techyescity I've bought replacement corsair cables off Aliexpress multiple times, works just fine. Just make sure that they are 16 or 18 AWG and you're golden