Akiyo Noguchi asks the rules while climbing! | Beta Break Ep.1
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- Top competition climber Akiyo Noguchi tops a boulder during an IFSC World cup and utilizes the rules of the competition to her advantage to get to the top of the boulder and place on the podium during the competition.
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As impressive as it was for her to use the hold, I am surprised the judges agreed that it was in play when she asked. Kudos to both the climber and judges on this one. Sadly the routesetters probably ended up with some egg on their faces.
Yeah I'm surprised too! I'm surprised the judges followed the rule book word by word and let it pass. I guess you always have to think about the "what if's" in setting which is why it's such a difficult job!
I'm surprised at how quickly the judges responded. Apparently there was no hesitation, no rule checking, no debate.
@@Xeno87 probably not their first time experiencing this situation then
The judges might have already pointed out of the lack of black tape to the chief route judge beforehand. The routesetters probably feeling silly.
Well, if the rule is clear and easily verifiable, there's no reason to ruminate or go against it.
read the rules, always read the rules, and then ask for permission. lols
Haha - if you're a beast like her you can hold onto a tiny crimp and take time to ask the rules!
And walk away LAUGHING! She rocks.
Never ask for permission, only forgiveness 😁 sayeth some dude in a movie
@@YnseSchaap Eragon hehe
@@cerealex3499 😁
This has to be the most awsome beta break ever. I love that kind of out of the box thinking.
Me too! Quite literally out of the box thinking too!
@Joe Weber She did the boulder not using the intended beta. Hence she broke the beta. I would argue that all beta breaks can be considered a mistake from the route setters some more obious than other. They are usually moves that the route setters either did not consider, or deemed to be impossible. It is the same wether you skip holds or entire sections of the boulders/routes use a static beta instead of the intended dyno etc ... I understand you did not appreciate this one. You don't have to agree with rules or the judges decision to allow it but, I think we can agree that she thought of something that nobody else thought of.
@Joe Weber She broke the intended beta by the setters due to their mistake, you kind of answered your own question.
She's so good at that
My favorite part of this is the look of joy on her face. She knows that she did was awesome and is super excited by it.
Yeah. "Grace perfected."
If you don't ask, the answer will always be no. She's smart for knowing the rule and use it to her own advantage.
If you don't ask a question, there can be no answer, only information. She is not smart for knowing the rule. She did not know the rule that's why she asked. She got herself in an awkward situation and saw a way out and got lucky that the judges said it was OK. She didn't start up the wall thinking she was going to do that...
I disagree. If you don't ask, the rulebook wins. If you do ask, you have the possibility of rejection.
@@daborshy4089 if your opponent is a rule book then you throw it in a fire and you win. But you are competing against other people who have agreed to a set of rules. I think it's cheap to look for ways around rules that you agree to abide by. The competition is about climbing the wall using and utilizing a bunch of obstacles/objects to make it intentionally difficult so that a great level of skill is required to participate. I see it as contrary to the spirit of the rules.
You know one of the secrets to getting what you want in life
@@screwfist she got in trouble and her resourcefulness saved her. she knew the rules and asked for official confirmation that what she was thinking to do was okay. apparently it was, since it was allowed. also I dont think that burning a rulebook will make the rules disappear, they would still apply.
I love her, she is so smily
Such a fun climber to watch - every time she climbs I get excited to see what she is going to do next!
I doubt I could even use that crimp at all, and here Akiyo is hanging off it having a casual chat with the judges about the route....I love things like that which demonstrate so clearly the difference between an elite athlete and a casual weekender
Some years back when akiyo visit singapore, i wanted to take a photo with her after her traversing warm up in a local gym...... I waited 45mins for her to finally step down from the wall lol......
Crazy strength!
Ayyy i sg as well
which gym did she visit in SG!
hahahahahahahahahahahah
Akiyo is my favorite climber to watch. She tries so many things statically or uses her strength and flexibility for unique betas. Such a thoughtful climber who exemplifies a climber in top form and focus.
As I was watching I thought the same “hey that yellow feature is not taped out”
Good eye!
Way off topic here, but this reminds me of a money prize twerking competition that a rapper put out some years ago. Thousands of entries came in of people twerking, but the only person to win was a girl who read the rules. She didn't twerk. One of the rules said that twerking was not a requirement to win.
I call BS on this story. Sources? The rap industry as a whole doesn't generally reward girls for brains over body. Most twerking competitions are advertisements, promotional gimmicks to attract people to something. Not sure if it would be terribly exciting for a crowd or fan base to see some girl standing there doing nothing in a twerking competition and winning... I can imagine some rapper seeing some girl not twerk when that's what the point is and awarding a win because some wannabe hoe read a rule book... What twerking competition has a rule book? Most twerking competitions are judged by the crowd... and no crowd of people who wanna see that ass movin would say huh that ugly girl standing there doing nothing is sooo smart, let's vote for her.
I think OP made that whole fake sounding scenario up. For what I dunno...
@@ST-rx1vw I stand corrected. You were right and I apologize. Now I look like an idiot...
@@ST-rx1vw that long ass post that I wrote out that I guess now was all wrong. What a waste of time. Stoopid
@@screwfist I really respect that you accepted that you were wrong, instead of being stubborn.
@@silver4809 hard to argue with fax. I said I didn't believe it and asked for sources. She sent a link. I should have washed my foot before I stuck it in my mouth...
She looks so happy climbing the wall. That's so nice.
You can tell she really enjoys climbing!
Love her chuckle-in-disbelief!
i think its perfectly fair for her to use it. so much of climbing is thinking outside of what is straightforward or intuitive and she deserves so much credit for that
Man, I love that smile so much, she knew she was being clever.
it’s so strange watching these back after some of the olympic games qualifiers, the sheer shift in production and scale around the sport is so so incredible to see
Just found your channel and watched everything you’ve posted, edits are nasty and the content is awesome, thoroughly enjoyed
Thanks Alex, means allot! I'll definitely be posting once or twice a week with more content like this. Hope you enjoy! :)
@@AlbertOkay the Adam Ondra beta break just got in my recommended and i am binging everything right now :)
@@siccodewilt1 Hope you enjoy the rest of my content !!!! :)
I love watching Akiyo Noguchi-- always a joy to spectate. Hoping to see her at the Olympics next year
WHAT A QUEEN her temperament was magnetic the whole time
This was the first time I've ever heard someone pronounce the "b" in "climber."
Yeah, English people think that since they invented the language, they can just do whatever they want with it, lol!
A lot of non native speakers will pronounce the b aswell.
Yeah I thought I was incorrectly hearing it..
@@keithklassen5320 He has an american accent though?
@@keithklassen5320 Yeah except for the fact that he is American.
I read the rules and it actually didn’t say anything about bringing my own ladder... so
@Tasunke That's not nice, completely wrecking the man's joke with facts like that :P
@Tasunke The motion passes
@Tasunke Judges rules such defense as against the code presented in rulebook, sorry.
@Tasunke The defendant may not leave the court. The case is adjourned
@Tasunke True. I meant it in an informal way, in my head the defendant was still in court so I said it in a passing manner. I also love rules, thats why I'm doing law
Nicely done, hope to see some good breakdowns of Jan Hojer surprising routesetters!
He has so many surprises, it's going to be hard to narrow down which one to do!
Great video! Thanks for uploading it. A comment: as you said, rules mention "any part of the Climbing Surface demarcated as..." Black tape, as it is demarcation, is considered part of the route. If you touch it, no judge should stop your climbing. In fact, that is what IFSC's recommendations for judge's work say.
people saying the judges were weird for allowing this, but i disagree, it was stated that the judges were very strict on following the rules and so it was easy to understand that this was indeed a legal move
Noguchi is out of all their leagues. absolutely climbed that so smoothly
Excellent first video and topic!! I want more videos!! :D
I can't wait to keep making more next week! Definitely going to cover allot of topics in the future!
Me who never exercise.
RUclips : Akiyo Noguchi asks the rules while climbing! | Beta Break Ep.1
lol!!! Same. Makes me wonder whether I should get out of this chair.
@@MrIlovesubaru NO BRO IT A TRAP!!! youtube is trying to trick us to EXERCISE!!!! AHHHHHH!!!! LOL
@@sweeterbright7157 so did u exercise yet
This is making me miss my climbing while in quarantine.
I must be the last climber in Texas to discover your channel haha! Nice production value Albert and good content!
HI JESSE HOPE YOU DOING WELL!!!
She moves marvelously, superflexible and efficient. Very comfortable.
wow very informative video. feeling inspired, might climb later
I hope you do climb! Go do it!
what a beast!! love these videos
Thanks jigglymabob! More content to come in the future!
Great content! Excited to see more!
Thanks! Expect more videos next week!
Hello Albert ! Thank you so much for your amazing videos, I watch them during breaks in my day, on they're making me feel amazed by those climbers. Your strength is the way you hinghlights their tricks and talents with a very positive mindset. Please, could you make more of them ? :)
Love this series ❤️
Wonderful production
Thanks! Let me know what topics you would like to see next!
World-class climber: *obliterates intended beta*
Commentators: *talk about Adam Ondra*
This was a great video, thanks man! Laughed out loud at the end.
Just found your channel. I love the Beta Break series! Looking forward to more.
Thanks for the comment!
This series is mad underrated - subscribed!
I would love an explanation of why the series is called breaking the beta. I would think that these pioneers are breaking the meta. Is beta a climbing term i do not comprehend.
Genuinely interested and have been enjoying watching during quarantine.
Indeed, it is a jargon. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing)
she is a GENIUS so impressive so OUT OF THE BOX thinking
I was watching that and couldn't stop laughing :) fair play to her
Great video! Hope to see more quality content
Thanks! I'll be releasing the next episode along with other content next week!
I was actually expecting her to just run up really fast stepping on each rock.
I just watched an anime, Iwa Kakeru, and saw a familiar name, Akiyo Noguchi, in the first 30 seconds. I knew i saw a video somewhere, and searched for this again. Glad to see rock climbing having an anime, like many sports do.
Thinking outside the line. Nice one.
nice job youtube for recommending this randomly^^
Thanks for watching through the recommendations :)
Great videos dude. Can't wait what you'll get to see in the Olympics
good for her ..my fave Japanese climber
Her smile is so adorable
You can imagine the judges. She asks 'can I use that?' and they realise there is no tape, so yes she can, and then bugger. ha. Now imagine the other climbers thoughts. They'd be all, oh man, no way, dang.
I know when I climb indoor, I see the route and the holds I'm allowed, and I don't even see the others. They just don't register. You sort of see the expected route and then follow it. The fact she could think outside the box is impressive in itself.
Props to the tv crew for always choosing the absolute worst angle to show off the climber's moves
I don't climb but this was the best video ive ever seen
Hey thanks man. Climbing rank is basically the same though!
watching this will make anyone's hands sweat like crazy
Every time I watch I have to wipe my hands haha
Earned. She outthought the comp and got it done.
The left boulder is actually the fourth female problem (F4) not a male boulder. See time 2:04
Great video plus I love the “clime-ber” pronunciation
I have no idea why this video was recommended to me but it's an interesting topic.
saying "may I" gets you more than you think
And now she is a medalist at the first Sport Climbing event at an Olympics :)
It was the deeply rooted Japanese politeness mentality that gave her the power to hold on that crimp for so long. 😂
beta break videos are so nice and professionel!
Thanks! I make everything on an old laptop so I appreciate you thinking it's professional!
As an F1 fan should know, "You read the rulebook twice, one to understand it and the other to get around it"
Absolutely!
Watching climbing for the first time. Super cool stuff. Have a question though. What's a beta?
beta is the sequence of moves you do to get to the top of a route. if someone "gives you beta", it means they tell or show you a way to do a route. "intended beta" is the sequence the route-setters had in mind when they made the route, and is what is used when grading the route, but theres almost always other options if youre creative/strong/flexible/tall/crazy enough. "breaking the beta" means finding a completely unexpected, left-field way of completing a problem that is nothing like what the route setters intended - which is what this series is about!
very well done sir
Thanks David :)
@@AlbertOkay It means a lot when youtubers reply, thanks for making my day :D
This popped into my recommendation. How crazy strong are these people to be able to grab onto these edges like that? Do they their hands/fingers get injured a lot?
Lotta torn skin too
Cuts and calluses are an everyday norm. Though, cuts on your finger usually signal the end of your day. Continuing would risk bigger wounds and longer rest periods.
3:51 for the bit you want. video surfing: to only watch the 20 second clip and move on
king
Just found your channel. Great content and editing, can't wait to binge your other videos! Might you have watched OnBouldering before? I saw a clip of his featured in one of your videos. Not sure what happened to him, but hope all is well. Looks like you're here to take his place!
I hope you enjoy the other videos! I have watched him quite a bit, he still makes videos so go check out his channel again and watch through some of his stuff! I love his channel so I hope I don't fully take his place, just want to add more content to the world of climbing though! :)
@@AlbertOkay Unfortunately he hadn't uploaded a video in 9 months!
god tier video made only by the one true climbing legend himself albert fucking ok
Bless your soul.
love this content
Not every day life tells you that they like your content. I'm honored :)
whats most impressive is that she manages to climb with such a massive brain
2000 iq move
Galaxy brain!
Amazing work
Ha! That is hilarious and awesome. Akiyo Noguchi, you have a new fan.
honorable mention to the perfectly timed uncanny thumbnail hand beard
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5]
It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
find you through your ashima video being on mh y recommended and am now binging the rest!!
that hold is insane her finger tips could crush diamonds
Fair and square. That's who I like my legends xD
(reminds me of mythologic problems like "cutting 4 different strings with a single arrow")
Akiyo follow the rules and made it better.
Sometime a few thousand years ago there was a law that stated "Do not Murder" with no exceptions.
Legend has it Akiyo politely asks the judge "But what if it's in self defense?"
Amazing! Go Akiyo!!!!!
*"Go up."*
Hell yeah albert! Love the content!
im not even climbing, but this is clever
love this beta break series, keep it up
More than anything I think this is a failure on the route setters part for being unclear about what was possible or not. But she was brilliant as always.
Why am I watching this? I'm a bodybuilder, not a climber, but this is very entertaining bro!
You'd be a great climber I bet!
I'm a couch potato. I don't know why RUclips recommended me this.
talking about rule-breaking..... "oh well, but the judge said it was ok....."
I am not into rock climbing per se. But I do enjoy people breaking rules and being badasses. lol
This got me into climbing
Other players be like - Our coach never told to read this rule book thing.
Sometimes people should just ask someone that doesn´t have a clue :D
I don´t have one when it comes to climbing and using this one was my first intuition. No idea if that was allowed or possible, but it looked like a logical move.
Thanks for that earrape at the end of the video
Creative thinking on the wall. mobeleash
i dont understand this video but these people are good at climbing things
My hand got so sweaty watching this
*palms are sweaty*
What would be amazing is if the judges awarded her extra points because this was a bonus hold.
I'm just a casual spectator and I spent all the video wondering why climbers didn't try to get that bonus point. It seemed so obvious.
That would be cool! In this case since she only gets points for the climb she started on she wouldn't be able to get bonus points for using the other holds on the climb next to her!
@@AlbertOkay This could lead to a new strategic beta with climbers having to decide if collecting bonuses on side routes is worth the extra fatigue.
It's my personal opinion, that no matter the sport,
You have to know the rules in order to "break" them.
Yes
It's funny because as a beginner there's nothing shocking to me about wondering if I can use whatever very convenient hole that could help me out of a tricky situation.
Really cool