I love how the commentators admit they messed up immediately lol. To me as an outsider that seems silly cause there's tape on the left side but not the top.
As he said early in the video, in some competitions, the rules state that you cannot use the top edge - unless there is a hold, most frequently the finish hold, beyond the edge. I actually think this is true for most comps at least nowadays, I've never watched one where the top was taped. So probably, the setters just assumed that it was forbidden to use the top anyways at the time they set the problem.
@Thu Nell Ⓥ at 1:44 looks like there is a yellow box in the middle of the boulder, but it is just an optical illusion because it is concave. I thought the same, why does anyone step on it and jumps to the top? xd
In my local climbing gym we have the saying: "Recht hat wer oben ankommt" which basically translates to "whoever tops out is right". It's not about doing it the intended way, but about finding your own way, as long as it's in the boundaries of the rules
That's an amazing saying I love the translation. Hope one day we can climb together and you can share me more sayings like this in your native language!
I think the problem here is that in the end it undermines the purpose of climbing in todays age. The Eiger north face for instance is revered amongst climbers, yet you could take the normal route over the west flank and basically just walk up there... which is also what climbers use for their descent. "Just get up there" was the approach of the original English mountaineers. They simply could not understand why anyone would be so silly to endanger themselves with a more difficult route and instead turned their gaze towards more difficult mountains (to endanger themselves in a non silly way), but by that metric the best mountaineers in todays age are the tourists taking the cable car. Climbing at this point has become obsolete exept as for sport (or as the English would call it "a damn hobby"). The rules are no longer dictated by nature but have become arbitrary. While ascending the north face is impressive, why not descend that way as well? Funnily climbing down is usually much more difficult but it does not give us the same feeling of achievement, so we are always climbing up. Climbing is only interesting to us anymore as a difficult but solvable problem - be it as humanity or as individuals, indoors or outdoors. The purpose of climbing today is to challange oneself (hence all the climbing grades), and the challange for route setters is to find problems that are on the cusp of being solvable for elite climbers. What Peter did here is cheeky and clever but also very boring as he did not find an interesting solution but simply opted out on the problem posed to him completely. In law practice there is a distinction between the law as written and the law as intended. I am pretty sure there was no explicit rule against taking the subway in marathon running when Rosie did it. Anyway, I am off to the climbing gym where my coach hauls me up the wall with the rope. I try to challange him by eating junk food all day while watching speedrunner videos. My goal is to set a record by becoming the first human too heavy to be carried on top of Mount Everest by a sherpa. But I also dream of the Eiger north face: free solo, having one hand tied behind my back, juggling five eggs in the other and hopping on a pogo stick while singing "God Save the Queen" backwards...oh and nekkid of course, I am sure the people on the Kleine Scheidegg want to see that blubber bubble.
This is like when quizmasters think of a question that to their mind only has one answer and then get salty when other people find different answers. It's not the fault of the participant, the question was at fault!
Simple analogy: "What is a number that has two zeroes in it?" - "100!" "No, the correct answer is 3010, thanks for participating." It's exaggerated, but it's basically the same principle.
I see that a lot with one question that is something around the lines of put ten coins into three cups so that each cup contains an odd number of coins. The correct answer is to put an odd-numbered cup of coins into the even but many point out that you can just get another coin.
i mean it's a goddamn competition and as long as the rules allow it, all is fair to "cheese it". People who say that is cheating really don't understand what competitive sport is
I absolutely devour these beta break videos and I have never climbed anything other than a jungle gym as a kid. A real shame since there is a rock climbing place less than a ten minute walk from my house. Subbed and looking forward to more. And thanks for all the great content!
You should start once this quarantine is over! I'm more than a year into my journey with bouldering and I'm definitely in love with it. It doesn't matter what level you start at, but I assure you the moment you find that one insurmountable obstacle, and conquer it, you'll be hooked.
Dude was this video made for me?! A video on Peter Dixon (the only pro I have ever met), that opens with references to speedrunning but is actually about climbing, that ends with a clip of Peter flubbing a route at a competition held at the gym I work at! The universe has aligned in my favor XD
one cool beta break that I liked was Stefano Ghisolfi at the 2019 ifsc lead finals at Kranj, when he wedged his finger behind a super-sloper (that had majorly greased up because of the bad temps and lack of cleaning between climbers), making it a sort of micro-undercling
WHAT A GENIUS! I love watching these beta breaks, makes me so hyped to go boulder myself soon. Maybe I'll somehow have a genius idea like all these climbers
I am not a climber. I have no aspiration to be a climber. What I've been loving about your Beta Break videos is watching top level athletes succeeding because they thought of something that not only their competitors didn't think of but also the route setters failed to imagine.
As a competitive magic the gathering player... You ALWAYS take your edges however big or small. If there is a structural benefit you can take in competition you take it.
I absolutely love these! Thank you for making them! They’re always an insta-click when they show up in my recommended. Magnificent job thus far! :) OH, also, what’s the little outro song? It’s always a bop!
Heck yes using your brain is part of your body. I'm glad that there is room in climbing to think your way out of problems one of the reasons why it's such a unique and fun sport.
I'm quite new to all this sports climbing world (simply as an spectator), so I don't think it's cheating at all. If everyone had the same opportunity to exploit the mistake, it's absolutely fine by me =)
At the end of the competition his top of this boulder actually didn't end up changing his position on the podiums so it all sort of worked out I guess!
@@AlbertOkay Iconic! A type of speedruns I really like is Dark Souls, where they speedrun all 3 games in a row. Just an endurance battle against losing your focus and getting tilted I think, a bit like climbing maybe? ;)
Yeah, but I would say this is clearly "against the spirit of the competition." I think it would have shown much more incredible maturity and sportsmanship to point it out rather than exploit it.
"Technically" he didn't cheat... haha brilliant use of an overlook!.... I've made use of things not taped out in comps, bolts, (non bolt) holes, small cracks by ill fitting plywood edges, even an over looked screw head that was not sunk in all the way into the plywood. Alas what Dixon did would not fly at my gyms comps. The owner states in his rules all top edges are out unless it's the taped finishing move box & further states "This is to save $$$ on tape, but further more truthful is that I am too lazy to tape off all the top edges." haha
Well, this is not cheating, cheating is breaking the rules, without notice or without way to detect it, like bringing an allen wrench, and while hiding a hold, moving it to another spot for better position. This is not even a glitch, that would be a situation that creates an unintended but valid moves, like if you are very high, and can simply skip parts of the route since you can reach what considered unreachable. This is an exploit, checking what is legal and available to everyone, and doing it. Like using an unrestricted part, that usually restricted, and obviously should be restricted, but for whatever reason not restricted currently.
Jesus when I began watching I thought I clicked on the wrong recommended video : "Speedrun ? Did I misread 200 IQ move for a climber ? Why is there speedrun ? Am I on the right channel ?" cause I watch speedrun videos too. Truly messed up with my brain ^^'
I mean, if you think about it, doing things like this seems to be more in the spirit of actual rock climbing, mountains don't have rules or demarcations telling you what you can and can't use, being able to see these features and recognize that you can use them to help you climb only makes you a better climber in my opinion.
Yeah and it's not to say that he isn't strong enough to do the problem. I'm sure if he wasn't under time pressure he would have done it eventually - I mean he's done v13 after all haha.
You can tell that the announcer and route setter are a little upset about it at first. I think perhaps a little annoyed at themselves but the announcer almost seems to want to call him out on it but everything he did was valid and he's still a tremendous athlete.
Don't worry! I posted this one, since I've been trying to get an interview with the actual athlete that was supposed to be featured on episode 10. I needed a bit more time so it could be extra special!
This is what I love for climbing: 1). It is a sport for intelligent people. 2). It is a sport for independant thinking people. And 3). There are maybe 3 or 4 root setters, but there are 8 (in the final) or more athletes, so it is always probable, that the athletes will outthinking the root setters -- It is like life: There is one god as rule setter for the world, but there are uncountable lives, so life will always outthinking the rule setter :D
Albert Ok it does! Right before Covid-19 hit they had a comp and left all the problems up for people to try! It’s such a cool space and helpful staff, I’m lucky to call it my home gym! 😁
its hacking. people think that hacking is done on computers and the like. when in reality its finding loopholes within a system and using it to your advantage. its the ones that have designed the system who are at fault, not the one who finds the loophole/s.
I agree - of course it's not cheating since it's still playing by the rules, but he knew exactly what was the challenge of the problem and just sidestepped it completely. Kind of lame IMO
For some reason I dislike this move, but I don't mind Jan's adidas rockstars beta. I think it has something to do with the top of the wall being such a jug here haha
Wtf I'm bouldering judge since several months and they told us climbers were not allowed to use edges of the structure, including the sides and the top...
Every organization will have slightly different rules, in the IFSC for instance you're allowed to use any part of the wall that's not taped off (see the beta break video of Akiyo Noguchi using a hold from a different problem)
YES! I have a big video about the top three 14/15 year olds dominating the lead season including Ai Mori. Definitely stay on the lookout for that in the future!
I think it's really fun to watch smaller climbers. What I find interesting about Ai Mori is, that she doesn't even seem to go for dynamic movements that often, as some other small climbers do to compensate. E.g. when I first watched some boulders with Mei Kotake she seemed to jump all over the place. Ai Mori definitely needs to do that sometimes as well, but if she can it seems like she often prefers static moves and flexibility :D
@@wullivieh yeah, it's pretty cool to watch. Here at our local gym we have this girl who climbs for the national junior team. She's 14 y/o and really small (1.50-ish). It's amazing to just watch how she solves really hard boulder problems that are out of her 'reach' using weird and creative toe hooks and turns to impossible holds/positions. Every time she's there she just attracts an audience of people who cannot believe their eyes. ;)
That is the beauty of climbing, you have to use your brain also, climbing effective isn't all about strength, next time they'll tape the top so he can't use it and someone else will find another way to break the beta...
He's not salty. "... But we'll see how that gets scored" He admits that he made a mistake, he admits that Peter sent the problem. There's no salt there.
That’s cheating! Jk jk. Thinking outside of the box can really help when climbing. Sometime even allowing you to find ways to beat break. Awesome video!
But why? This is a competition and the goal is to win, if there's a way to win easily people will go for it. Unless this is a normal gym training, then people would of course go for the intended beta for the training.
If i can beat a setters beta and make my own beta... to me means he hasn't thought about all styles of climbing. I win he loses that simple not cheating at all.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how the commentators admit they messed up immediately lol. To me as an outsider that seems silly cause there's tape on the left side but not the top.
As he said early in the video, in some competitions, the rules state that you cannot use the top edge - unless there is a hold, most frequently the finish hold, beyond the edge. I actually think this is true for most comps at least nowadays, I've never watched one where the top was taped. So probably, the setters just assumed that it was forbidden to use the top anyways at the time they set the problem.
@@martinr113 And we're back to rule number 1 in everything: when things do matter, never assume, always read the book to make pretty damn sure.
Did anyone else see the illusion of a yellow box extending outwards and wondering for a second why the climbers wouldn't use it?
yup
Oh completely! Now I realise it's concave I can't see it how I originally saw it! 🙈
Yes! I thought that was what he was talking about when he said going on top of the boulder, I was so confused that no one else used it
@Thu Nell Ⓥ at 1:44 looks like there is a yellow box in the middle of the boulder, but it is just an optical illusion because it is concave. I thought the same, why does anyone step on it and jumps to the top? xd
@@hellderm i dont see it, where is it?
In my local climbing gym we have the saying: "Recht hat wer oben ankommt" which basically translates to "whoever tops out is right". It's not about doing it the intended way, but about finding your own way, as long as it's in the boundaries of the rules
That's an amazing saying I love the translation. Hope one day we can climb together and you can share me more sayings like this in your native language!
Haha ja moin, denselben Spruch gibt es bei uns auch :D
"recht hat wer oben ankommt" great concept in climbing, not so much for a system of government.
@@sharperguy True. Luckily this saying is mainly known to climbers where I live
I think the problem here is that in the end it undermines the purpose of climbing in todays age.
The Eiger north face for instance is revered amongst climbers, yet you could take the normal route over the west flank and basically just walk up there... which is also what climbers use for their descent.
"Just get up there" was the approach of the original English mountaineers. They simply could not understand why anyone would be so silly to endanger themselves with a more difficult route and instead turned their gaze towards more difficult mountains (to endanger themselves in a non silly way), but by that metric the best mountaineers in todays age are the tourists taking the cable car.
Climbing at this point has become obsolete exept as for sport (or as the English would call it "a damn hobby"). The rules are no longer dictated by nature but have become arbitrary. While ascending the north face is impressive, why not descend that way as well? Funnily climbing down is usually much more difficult but it does not give us the same feeling of achievement, so we are always climbing up.
Climbing is only interesting to us anymore as a difficult but solvable problem - be it as humanity or as individuals, indoors or outdoors. The purpose of climbing today is to challange oneself (hence all the climbing grades), and the challange for route setters is to find problems that are on the cusp of being solvable for elite climbers.
What Peter did here is cheeky and clever but also very boring as he did not find an interesting solution but simply opted out on the problem posed to him completely.
In law practice there is a distinction between the law as written and the law as intended. I am pretty sure there was no explicit rule against taking the subway in marathon running when Rosie did it.
Anyway, I am off to the climbing gym where my coach hauls me up the wall with the rope. I try to challange him by eating junk food all day while watching speedrunner videos. My goal is to set a record by becoming the first human too heavy to be carried on top of Mount Everest by a sherpa. But I also dream of the Eiger north face: free solo, having one hand tied behind my back, juggling five eggs in the other and hopping on a pogo stick while singing "God Save the Queen" backwards...oh and nekkid of course, I am sure the people on the Kleine Scheidegg want to see that blubber bubble.
This is like when quizmasters think of a question that to their mind only has one answer and then get salty when other people find different answers. It's not the fault of the participant, the question was at fault!
Smart thinking should be awared!
Simple analogy:
"What is a number that has two zeroes in it?"
- "100!"
"No, the correct answer is 3010, thanks for participating."
It's exaggerated, but it's basically the same principle.
I see that a lot with one question that is something around the lines of put ten coins into three cups so that each cup contains an odd number of coins. The correct answer is to put an odd-numbered cup of coins into the even but many point out that you can just get another coin.
This has quickly become my favourite and one of the best made video series on youtube.
Agreed!
100% agree
He is starting to get too cheesy for my taste.
Saaammee
You might also like JimmyTheGiant. He also does something similar, but for freerunning/parkour/urban gymnastics
i mean it's a goddamn competition and as long as the rules allow it, all is fair to "cheese it". People who say that is cheating really don't understand what competitive sport is
So many comments giving love to this series, this is yet another.
Thanks Peter
Haha nice move there by Dixon! The silence after tho xD
The few seconds it lasted for were absolutely hilarious
I absolutely devour these beta break videos and I have never climbed anything other than a jungle gym as a kid. A real shame since there is a rock climbing place less than a ten minute walk from my house. Subbed and looking forward to more. And thanks for all the great content!
Try it!!!
Just go for it
You should start once this quarantine is over! I'm more than a year into my journey with bouldering and I'm definitely in love with it. It doesn't matter what level you start at, but I assure you the moment you find that one insurmountable obstacle, and conquer it, you'll be hooked.
Don't start it dude. You're gonna get addicted the second you do, that shit is the best
@@TheHoleGoodness what do you mean?? It's not like I just built a climbing wall in our backyard
Dude was this video made for me?! A video on Peter Dixon (the only pro I have ever met), that opens with references to speedrunning but is actually about climbing, that ends with a clip of Peter flubbing a route at a competition held at the gym I work at! The universe has aligned in my favor XD
Holy crap! So many coincidences haha. I'm glad you enjoyed it! You're so lucky you got to meet him and be at such a sick gym! Crush it dude!
one cool beta break that I liked was Stefano Ghisolfi at the 2019 ifsc lead finals at Kranj, when he wedged his finger behind a super-sloper (that had majorly greased up because of the bad temps and lack of cleaning between climbers), making it a sort of micro-undercling
OOOOOH BOI I have that one in the works in the future 100%
WHAT A GENIUS!
I love watching these beta breaks, makes me so hyped to go boulder myself soon. Maybe I'll somehow have a genius idea like all these climbers
It takes some time to learn your strong points and exploit them, but for sure! Breaking beta can be done at any level
I am not a climber. I have no aspiration to be a climber. What I've been loving about your Beta Break videos is watching top level athletes succeeding because they thought of something that not only their competitors didn't think of but also the route setters failed to imagine.
As a competitive magic the gathering player... You ALWAYS take your edges however big or small. If there is a structural benefit you can take in competition you take it.
It's contrary to the philosophy of bouldering, but competitions aren't about philosophy, so it's cool and fun and legit.
Peter did a great job by teaching the route settlers. That is how climbing evolve.
I absolutely love this dude for thinking about that
I just love the video game analogies to bouldering! I love both and it's the video game mindset that got me hooked on bouldering in the first place.
@ 1:56 Traversi is such a perfect last name for a climber, just like Klingler haha
Magdalena Röck is not far behind...
yes!! I thought the same thing!
This is essentially what Jan Hojer did too. Top wasn't taped off so he just reach straight for it. Fair play for knowing the rules
Brain power!
Hey he goes to the rough rock gym! My mans a legend.
haha ingenious, a really great example of out-of-the-box thinking!
More like on-top-of-the-box
found you by chance. ended up watching your entire beta break series. great work!
Love these beta break videos. Keep them coming!
Gabriel! Thanks so much I'm going to keep working on more in the future!
I absolutely love these! Thank you for making them! They’re always an insta-click when they show up in my recommended. Magnificent job thus far! :)
OH, also, what’s the little outro song? It’s always a bop!
Great vids man! The circuit in Tigard OR was my main gym for the last year. Great place!
your channel is addictive just like climbing
The mind plays a role in the climb. Such observation and strategy shouldn't be undermined as 'cheating'.
Heck yes using your brain is part of your body. I'm glad that there is room in climbing to think your way out of problems one of the reasons why it's such a unique and fun sport.
There is a expression used outside of climbing that I feel better reflects moments like these.
“It’s just not cricket”.
LOL I love this saying.
Woah, just realized that the gym I climb at is the one that hosted the rally!
The circuit gym in Tigard, Portland woop woop!
@@hwangmic fellow circuit climbers :D
@@TheHatBoyz22 We're out there!
I respect you for putting 2 adds at the start. 🤜🤛
Haha I think youtube did it automatically
I'm quite new to all this sports climbing world (simply as an spectator), so I don't think it's cheating at all. If everyone had the same opportunity to exploit the mistake, it's absolutely fine by me =)
Heck yes Thiago. As always if you have any questions hit me up again on instagram and I would love to talk climbing with you! Much love from Colorado!
Another awesome beta break video! Keep it up man
Ayy Thanks Jackson!
To be fair he did not broke the rules, he broke the spirit of the rules.
At the end of the competition his top of this boulder actually didn't end up changing his position on the podiums so it all sort of worked out I guess!
He saw the opening it’s like reading the rules and knowing what to do
I'm pretty sure that last clip is from Elevation bouldering gym. I used to go there all the time before Covid. I miss that place.
And there was one more legend climbing just beside him
Ya love to see it! Another great analysis man :))
0:43 that smile says “l know something you don’t know”
Great comparison at the start! Speedrunning is so interesting to watch :)
I love speed running, one of my favorites is Ryan Lockwoods streets 1:12!
@@AlbertOkay Iconic! A type of speedruns I really like is Dark Souls, where they speedrun all 3 games in a row. Just an endurance battle against losing your focus and getting tilted I think, a bit like climbing maybe? ;)
This is such a good series
Yeah, but I would say this is clearly "against the spirit of the competition." I think it would have shown much more incredible maturity and sportsmanship to point it out rather than exploit it.
"Technically" he didn't cheat... haha brilliant use of an overlook!....
I've made use of things not taped out in comps, bolts, (non bolt) holes, small cracks by ill fitting plywood edges, even an over looked screw head that was not sunk in all the way into the plywood.
Alas what Dixon did would not fly at my gyms comps. The owner states in his rules all top edges are out unless it's the taped finishing move box & further states "This is to save $$$ on tape, but further more truthful is that I am too lazy to tape off all the top edges." haha
He didn't cheat. Peter is just a very good observer.
Well, this is not cheating, cheating is breaking the rules, without notice or without way to detect it, like bringing an allen wrench, and while hiding a hold, moving it to another spot for better position.
This is not even a glitch, that would be a situation that creates an unintended but valid moves, like if you are very high, and can simply skip parts of the route since you can reach what considered unreachable.
This is an exploit, checking what is legal and available to everyone, and doing it. Like using an unrestricted part, that usually restricted, and obviously should be restricted, but for whatever reason not restricted currently.
Another great video, loving these beta breaks
I love your vids man! Keep up the good work :)
Thanks! I hope you enjoy my videos in the future! Can't wait to make the next one :)
0:53 Point (b) in the rules is about black tape, but point (d) is about open edges, so it's not a beta-break, it's a rule break.
Yoooo, that's my home gym! Represent!
Thanks!
Just because someone got mad doesn't make it cheating. Take every advantage you can.
Jesus when I began watching I thought I clicked on the wrong recommended video : "Speedrun ? Did I misread 200 IQ move for a climber ? Why is there speedrun ? Am I on the right channel ?" cause I watch speedrun videos too. Truly messed up with my brain ^^'
I mean, if you think about it, doing things like this seems to be more in the spirit of actual rock climbing, mountains don't have rules or demarcations telling you what you can and can't use, being able to see these features and recognize that you can use them to help you climb only makes you a better climber in my opinion.
Yeah and it's not to say that he isn't strong enough to do the problem. I'm sure if he wasn't under time pressure he would have done it eventually - I mean he's done v13 after all haha.
You can tell that the announcer and route setter are a little upset about it at first. I think perhaps a little annoyed at themselves but the announcer almost seems to want to call him out on it but everything he did was valid and he's still a tremendous athlete.
You cannot top out on anything but the taped hold, if there is a taped hold. That has always been the rule at any gym. But i guess not comps.
nice video! keep making new ones!
You know it! Got a special one in the books next week!
i am terrified of the day that you will have made a video for any beta break ever. what then?? 😱
Don't worry! I posted this one, since I've been trying to get an interview with the actual athlete that was supposed to be featured on episode 10. I needed a bit more time so it could be extra special!
This is what I love for climbing: 1). It is a sport for intelligent people. 2). It is a sport for independant thinking people. And 3). There are maybe 3 or 4 root setters, but there are 8 (in the final) or more athletes, so it is always probable, that the athletes will outthinking the root setters -- It is like life: There is one god as rule setter for the world, but there are uncountable lives, so life will always outthinking the rule setter :D
It's such a cool sport that has so many options for everyone no matter who you are!
the ending made me go "pffth" 🤣🤣
Someone no doubt has already pointed this out to you, but "aretes" is spelled "arrets" and means "stops" in french. :)
I actually should have put the accent over it but I'm referring to: a·rête meaning mountain top derived from Latin but in the French language!
I mean there's obviously two any% runs on this problem top glitch and topless. lol
This is the best any% run ever on a boulder haha
Ayy that’s my gym
One of the best gyms, so jealous you get to climb there all the time!
what happened at the last but
This!!!
But what?!?!
Is nobody going to mention that awkward handshake fist bump at the end?
LOL
Lol the commentators seemed pissed that he did that.
The gym in the last clip is m my home gym! Unfortunately didn’t see that comp.
Man that gym looks so cool. The roof area looks like it probably has amazing boulders!
Albert Ok it does! Right before Covid-19 hit they had a comp and left all the problems up for people to try! It’s such a cool space and helpful staff, I’m lucky to call it my home gym! 😁
Anyone have any ideas of exercises I can do so I can start climbing after lock down?
My senior teach me this saying "start at your core, then strengthen your grip, finish it with balancing your pull (hand) and push (feet)"
its hacking. people think that hacking is done on computers and the like. when in reality its finding loopholes within a system and using it to your advantage. its the ones that have designed the system who are at fault, not the one who finds the loophole/s.
fair game
Going against the rules? No.
Going against the spirit of the rules? Yes.
Breaking the beta is good and fun, but personally I think this is too far, I wouldn't want to win this way
still very smart of the guy
I agree - of course it's not cheating since it's still playing by the rules, but he knew exactly what was the challenge of the problem and just sidestepped it completely. Kind of lame IMO
Kind of stupid of the other competitors to not do it
@@abel2226 i don't agree. You try to win to prove you're the best. If you win not playing the same game as the others, victory must be tasteless
@@OlivierFRscooter winning with honor
@@OlivierFRscooter He bested a lot of them, he got second place!
Poor setter sounds so defeated, lol
albert running out of beta breaks if this is what we've got now
I GOT PLENTY MORE THIS IS ONLY THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG
@@AlbertOkay thats what i like to hear
Why the term beta break come?
I am apart of the climbing world for 12 years... If some one could tell me...
I just made an episode about the definition! Go check it out!
Rules are rules, no tape means fair game. Using your brains isn't cheating.
I don’t get the last clip, if anyone is reading this, could you explain it to me
3:37 LOLOLOL
I don’t get the last clip
Anyone know what the title screen song is?
For some reason I dislike this move, but I don't mind Jan's adidas rockstars beta. I think it has something to do with the top of the wall being such a jug here haha
I honestly don't get the ending. Didn't he just fell off? Aren't you supposed to hold the top safely?
This guy souns so much like aktion esports
Hi! 5:17 can someone please explain what’s happening for me? Non climber here and I want to know why it’s really cool or fancy or etc.!
hey Madison, hope you're doing well! nothing fancy to see there, just a good old-fashioned face plant for comedic purposes :)
on another note does anybody know where ashima got that tank top lol
Wtf I'm bouldering judge since several months and they told us climbers were not allowed to use edges of the structure, including the sides and the top...
Every organization will have slightly different rules, in the IFSC for instance you're allowed to use any part of the wall that's not taped off (see the beta break video of Akiyo Noguchi using a hold from a different problem)
In nature, getting to the top of the rock any way possible counts. So nothing is cheating.
Yes!
Do Ai Mori, she's forced to break the beta on every move 🙃
YES! I have a big video about the top three 14/15 year olds dominating the lead season including Ai Mori. Definitely stay on the lookout for that in the future!
I think it's really fun to watch smaller climbers. What I find interesting about Ai Mori is, that she doesn't even seem to go for dynamic movements that often, as some other small climbers do to compensate. E.g. when I first watched some boulders with Mei Kotake she seemed to jump all over the place. Ai Mori definitely needs to do that sometimes as well, but if she can it seems like she often prefers static moves and flexibility :D
@@wullivieh yeah, it's pretty cool to watch. Here at our local gym we have this girl who climbs for the national junior team. She's 14 y/o and really small (1.50-ish). It's amazing to just watch how she solves really hard boulder problems that are out of her 'reach' using weird and creative toe hooks and turns to impossible holds/positions. Every time she's there she just attracts an audience of people who cannot believe their eyes. ;)
Who isn't strong, has to be smart
That is the beauty of climbing, you have to use your brain also, climbing effective isn't all about strength, next time they'll tape the top so he can't use it and someone else will find another way to break the beta...
200IQ Move! ... calm down
How salty the route setter is. Come on dude, you messed up, no 'but' about it.
He's not salty.
"... But we'll see how that gets scored"
He admits that he made a mistake, he admits that Peter sent the problem. There's no salt there.
That’s cheating! Jk jk. Thinking outside of the box can really help when climbing. Sometime even allowing you to find ways to beat break. Awesome video!
when you turn on god mode
1million iq LOL
It is not cheating, but even if people know it is allowed, a lot of people would still choose not to do it.
But why? This is a competition and the goal is to win, if there's a way to win easily people will go for it. Unless this is a normal gym training, then people would of course go for the intended beta for the training.
I was at the one where he fell off in real life ! Wow I feel so famous!
was he showing off?
OMG, my comment got quoted. Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE COMMENT!!! It was so accurate! I do read every comment and try to respond as much as possible when I can. So thank you so much
They didnt tape the edge and he didnt hold the top for three seconds 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Lmao the route setters are so upset
Hahah truu
2:45 to 3:25
If i can beat a setters beta and make my own beta... to me means he hasn't thought about all styles of climbing.
I win he loses that simple not cheating at all.