Quick Tip: Where Should I Use Loctite on my AR-15?
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2020
- Thread-locker, most commonly known by the Loctite® brand name, is a lot like a Dremel® tool: if you have it, you feel an almost overpowering urge to use it - a lot. "But wait," say Brownells Gun Techs Caleb and Steve, "go easy with the Loctite on your AR-15!" It should NOT be used where steel and aluminum parts are threaded together. The steel is hard and the Loctite, when compressed into the threads, is also hard. The softest material in this equation is the aluminum... and you run the risk of stripping the threads on the aluminum part. So DO NOT use Loctite on the castle nut / buffer tube connection or the pistol grip screw. (Some aftermarket AR-15 pistol grips DO come with material to put on the grip screw, but it's not Loctite.) What about the barrel nut threads? Nope, says Caleb, Loctite is not a replacement for applying proper torque to that nut. Muzzle devices get so hot that Loctite won't be able to do its job on them. Instead, use Rocksett™, which can handle temps up to 1,300 deg. F. Some manufacturers of low-profile gas blocks do recommend a dab o' Loctite on the setscrews, but again it's a high-heat area, so there's little-to-no benefit. Bottom line: Loctite is a great product... Just don't use it on your AR-15. Agree? Disagree? Shoot us a comment below!
Want more insight and info from Steve-n-Celeb and our other Gun Techs? Check out our earlier videos - and Subscribe to be notified about new ones! 
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Why use loctite when you can just cross thread the nut?
Haha yeah that was good. Well done. I couldn't think of a better way to say - Oh man.. You all are slowwww sloww wondering about this shit. What can you fix if you need this video... It's true.
Permanently installed with permanent problems🤣
always spot weld for extra protection
Remember, a cross threaded bolt is a tight bolt!
HA! Good one! Do not quit day job.
I use red loctite on everything. That way I have a reason to buy a whole new rifle.
Cant argue with that logic!
I use blue and just buy the new rifle.
😅😅
I like the way you think 🤔
Well then just go to green loktite.
Here is a Locktite Pro Tip. For a easy release when removing locktited hardware use a soldering gun to heat the screw/bolt and it can be removed like no locktite was used at all. Even works with Red locktite.
I only use a drop of blue loctite on my optic mounting screws
The handguard nuts and bolts are a good place too.
@@peaceprayer595 and MLOK/Keymod accessories.
@@billyfreeman5803 MLOK bolts should come with it pre-applied, but yes. It doesn't hurt.
I use vibra-tite on optics screws, have had blue loctite break apart.
I'll use blue to better hold optic mounts on my AR but other than that I use Rocksett only on my muzzle device.
One place Loctite is really useful is on the handguard screws. I had a brand new Aero M5E1 AR10 that I built with everything torqued down to spec, was in the process of sighting it in, and I kept losing my zero. I eventually realized that the handguard screws had come loose due to the recoil vibrations. I put some blue Loctite on the screws and never had another issue.
Mike Van I had this same issue with my Daniel Defense rifle.
That and sight systems attached but otherwise I don’t use it.
my BCM handguard came with locktite for the barrel clamp screws
Man. Can you give me some advice please, on how to keep my rail guard from turning loose. I have an m lok rail guard. Every time I shoot it it ends up moving.
@@thelonepainter4760 what rail do you have
I don’t even have one of these, I just stay for the chaos and bickering, it’s like a bunch of car guys arguing, haha!
@@melvinhawkins9208 exactly, that’s why assault cars are protected by the 2A, just like horses were for cavalry and ships for battleships.
I was in the U.S Army, My mos was 45b (small arms repairer). We never used lock tight when I was in. Torque the parts is all you need. Buy a cheap leaf spring torque wrench and you're good to go.
Thank you for sharing that. No armorer in the Marine Corps ever used lock tight while I was in either. The shooting world gets more and more nutty as time goes on.
Thank you all for your service.
I was a 45b also when we used M16A1s. No loctite then.
During 21 years, none of the unit armorers under my command ever used Loctite in any color on any of my unit's small arms - and we had M1911A1s that had seen both Korea and Vietnam, M16A1s that had seen all of Vietnam, as well as M60's and M2s that had also seen Vietnam in its entirety. Never needed it. Proper torque does the job. Dealing with worn threads used other methods to replace and rework parts, but no Loctite of any kind. Thanks for keeping our bang sticks working!
I use locktite on optics mounts only. I use purple, because I've stripped out a few fasteners with even blue.
I use rockset on muzzle devices and gas block set screws.
As an aircraft technician, I REALLY appreciate your technical explanations.
As a couch potato I also appreciate their explanation
Good stuff guys. I'm new to AR ownership, so this really helps a lot.
Thanks for watching!
Dang! Two in a row with the un-synchronized coffee! I'm devastated. ;)
I did mine right . But great to see I thought about disassembling to add loctite glad I didn’t. This helps now I know not to tear apart and for future builds.
I find these Brownell videos so interesting. I never used loctite on my AR-15s but found this to be very informative.
Thanks for watching!
I actually have used a little bit of anti-cease on the barrel nut as recommended from Steve in his 2016 tip video. No locktight. Only had my muzzle device come loose once, and added a copper crush washer from my automotive parts and problem solve, no lock tight, and better indexing of the brake. Also gave a cool copper accent to the barrel.
I love that they responded to that last video regarding Loctite. There were far too many people professing that it was a replacement for staking a castle nut, and a few of us chimed in to say DON'T EVER DO THAT. Thanks Brownells for the follow up!
Yes! That was the exact reason for this video. It was mind blowing, the amount of misinformation regarding locktite.
Thanks for acknowledging that! We DO listen to you all!
@@brownells you guys rock... Love this series and keep them coming!
you guys are great, informative ,right to the point with logic and reason , and i feel you found that perfect balance with begginers and seasoned gun owners on your video topics
I have never used Loctite on any AR assemble parts. I DO use anti-seize compound on the barrel nut threads for the same reason I use anti-seize on the threads of my spark plugs for my motorcycle, steel threads in aluminum.
Aeroshell 64 has and additive that works like anti-sieze
I always have use a high temperature grease on the barrel nut.
@@RCFlyBoy314 The only thing I would allow for when using something like Aeroshell 64 or similar libricants is just that, it IS a lubricant and will affect torque values and compression of the aluminium threads as opposed to an anti seize compound. It is made for things that rotate as opposed to things that tighten. Having said that there is an ENORMOUS amount of discussion about torquing the barrel nut and it can really get over done.
@@patthegunsmith I'm not saying that the military way is the best way.... But that IS the spec and use of 33MS for the rifle. I believe the process is also for it to be wet-torqued.
RCFlyBoy314 I’m not disagreeing at all. When I did Colt warranty work they didn’t specify any. That was during the later ‘80s and early’90s.
I would think the mil spec changed through the years. When we’re you doing that work?
Thank you, that's a subject I have heard VERY different outlooks regarding.
Great rundown and points about proper torque. Just to add, JP Enterprises MK III hand guard installation requires Loctite 271 for the bbl nut, once aligned for gas tube. After setting overnight, the bbl is inserted, followed by bbl retainer nut, which is torqued. It works and looks great!
Cool video! I’ve always been taught to apply a small amount of blue loctite to the castle nut. I never paid attention to how soft this aluminum is. Really something to think about.
Another good tutorial by the Brownell guys. I do use blue on optical sights mounted on an AR, sparingly!
Steve and Caleb always look forward to you videos , I have learned a lot from you gentlemen.
I learn something new everyday from Brownells. It's incredible how much i have learnt about my AR just by watching your daily videos. Great work guys and thank you.
As a customer I enjoy watching you guys and I’ve learned a lot from you too thank you
Thank you!
I like the no nonsense approach of these videos.
The problem with "red" and "blue" Loctite is that there's multiple versions of each, plus purple and green. In particular, there are varieties of "red" Loctite that are more temperature resistant. Don't know if they go all the way to 1300°, but there is a range.
they go to 450 degree F max.
Thanks for posting such great videos. I use your tips all the time. Cheers!
Thanks so much for watching!
I used a high heat anti-sieze for my barrel nut and castle nut.
I saw in a Criterion Barrels video that they use Loctite 609 (not regular loctite) on their barrel extensions. It supposedly aids in the fitment of cylindrical parts. When I get around to a barrel swap I will likely do this.
You can use low strength loctite 222 on the bolt release thread screw found on some billeted upper receivers... nowadays, even some forged uppers use this screw.
You can use medium strength (blue) loctite (242 or 243) on handguard rail accessories. 243 provides better oil resistance. Medium strength loctite can also be used on the screws found on some trigger guards.
You can use Loctite 246 or Permatex red on gas block screws.
You can use Rocksett on a muzzle device.
I love these videos from you guys!!! Very informative! Thanks!!!
Very interesting! Thanks for the great information y’all provide!
Thanks for watching!
Great content, awesome channel!
love you guys! thanks for these videos
I used blue loctite on my Arisaka offset mount and on one of those enhanced mag releases from Battle Arms once (went back to a milspec mag release since). Otherwise, just properly torque.
I do locktite my barrel nut but only a small drop about as much as you might put on a small screw never had a problem.
I also use a small amount to fill the space between the barrel and receiver so once it dries there is no wiggle between them, and that is a retaining compound that can be cleaned off pretty easily after removal.
Great videos guys....keep it up
I've used Rokset on my gas blocks and muzzle devices before. However I've never used loctite on any AR components with one exception, that exception being my Maxim Defense SCW brace. Which called for you to use a form of included Loctite on the buffer tub threads because it doesn't have an end plate to stake to.
Although I do put a touch of blue on the screws of my optic mounts. However I don't put any on the scope ring screws, just the mounting screws, like for an Aimpoint or Acog mount.
I made the mistake of putting loctite on my castle nut after seeing someone have a pretty serious malfunction after their nut backed out. I paid for my paranoia later on when I mangled the buffer tube a bit trying to clean it up, now I just use the ratcheting castle nut and end plate combo from Primary Weapon Systems. Works great!
Yup, not sure why the ratcheting castle nut isn't used exclusively now....
The barrel for an AR9 I finished building a few months ago came with red loctite. It said to use it for the barrel nut as well as the screws for the handguard. I was like "yeah, nah. I want to be able to remove it for cleaning/maintenance without torching it". I did use blue loctite on the screws for my AR15s scope. It's THE scope I want on it and will not be switching it out.
Thanks for the knowledge. I will run any future builds dry.
Very interesting. Makes good sense to me. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks for watching!
I find a drop of blue Loctite (medium) on the screw threads of my Sig Romeo5 red dot optic is very helpful. I've run my AR15 with just torque and with purple Loctite (low) and the optic loosens after only a couple hundred rounds. I probably put 500 rounds through the rife so far with the blue Loctite with no loosening of the optic. I have red Loctite (high) but have never used it. The Romeo5 only has one machine screw holding the optic onto the rail, and I believe two machine screws would be a better design.
THANK YOU!!! so many newbies try loctite and it makes me wince. I had a guy who red loctited his castle nut and it was BEOTCH to get off. Especially because the owner who I had to help replace that tube was the 2nd owner and didn't realize that the 1st owner used red loctite AND staked it. So you can be assured we replaced that damn tube afterwards. the ONLY place I would consider it a "ok, I wouldn't do it except when I was a newb, but it's not gonna kill it" is a little blue loctite on the pistol grip screw. It's not gonna cause an issue there as long as you don't red loctite it. It's not in any way needed, but if you did that on a build I wouln't start ripping your hair out and thinking you ruined your lower (if you red loctited it...welllllllllllllllll lol)
Great Video, as always.
Now it's time to order something from Brownells to support you... 😁👍
I only use Loctite for optics and other accesories. If you use blue Loctite for steel in Aluminium (yes, not aluminum) you don't have to soak it completely. Just a small drop. I never had problems with unintended loose screws.
I never use Loctite on parts that can get hot.
And never ever use zink plated screws for parts that can get hot. 😉
Best greetings from Germany. Keep it up.
Agree with everything said. I never use Loctite on anything that attaches to any of the receivers from the front (barrel) or the back (extension tube). The one exception to what was discussed that I make is the grip. I use blue Loctite there. I also use blue Loctite when attaching accessories to the receiver such as lights, scope rings, foregrips, or secondary sights. I also use blue Loctite for the scope mount screws that hold the actual scope in place. I find that all these accessories have a tendency to come lose after prolonged use.
Good info. Hear a lot of things and its good to get some perspective. Especially with the red loctite an heat.
Thanks for watching!
Some great info in these videos, but also some info that contradicts what a lot of other long time industry professionals and manufacturers would advise. Also a lot of generalizations and anecdotal information that might not apply to everyone.
"I run all mine dry and I've never had one come loose." is the same as someone else saying "I use Loctite on all my castle nuts and I've never messed up threads on a receiver extension."
Steel and aluminum you can use low strength Loctite 222. I've been using for years, it is easy to remove, it will seal the thread preventing corrosion and vibration loosening. Rule of thumb: application on three threads of your bolt are enough to keep it tight.
Thanks. I am building my 2nd 1 and was about to make the loctite mistake.
Interesting. I've just always been of the school of thought that blue doesn't hurt anything.
Unfortunately it certainly can.
That’s not a good school to attend.
Caleb Savant especially when they use too much.
ive used reusable blue lock tight on something & ended up destroying a specialized tool to try to get it off, "try"
Blue loctite loosens with heat, acetone or methylene chloride solvent (just a drop or two will seep in via capillary action)
I'd rather not stake my castle nut.
Optic mounts, mlok screws (like on flashlight mounts), screws for ambi safeties and everything that is attacked to the pic rail gets loctite. My gasblock screws got rockset after breaking free by themself, but that could be an issue with the aftermarket adjustable gasblock that is installed.
Great video. Keep them coming
Thank you!
Only time I've used loctite(blue) on an ar was for optic mount screws. I could probably use something else but I feel some extra security with locking the threads down a little bit to keep the optic solid in place.
Thanks for this video! There is a lot of mixed opinions out there, and I certainly respect yours.
This was very helpful.
Keep up the good work
On my muzzle devices or suppressor adapters I use silver antiseize so I can easily remove them during cleaning. I have never used rockset or locktite and with the barrel in a barrel vise and proper torque I have never had one work loose.
My 14.5" troy upper didn't have a pinned gas block, but the set screws were aggressively staked
Interesting insight about loctite, steel and aluminum. It has me thinking about all the optics that I mounted with aluminum housings, some tapped, with steel screws, into aluminum receivers. Specifically the Sclarwerks SRO adaptor for the Trijicon SRO on a Benelli M4. All the optics companys say to use blue loctite.
Very Informative
I only put blue thread locker on iron sights and red dot screws.
Great video, you guys kick butt!
Thank you!
I ran with blue loctite on the castle nut when my wrench wouldn't fit the pistol tube, and when you get a hard back plate that won't stake properly. A1's and A2's were OK'd to use blue on the ported buttstock screw, and new screws changed from nylon insert to blue loctite.
I was wondering about this. My AR building knowledge is almost complete now.
I have a ar10 and have had problems with my scope getting loose. Blue lock tight helped there.
Glad ive never even heard of using locktite on the ar platform untill now
I use blue for sight mounting and reciever extension once its set how I want it cause I don't have a good way to dimple steel.
I used red loctite on a gas block...once. Even after hard use it stripped a couple wrenches, tried torching it in a vice at home which led to more stripped hex wrenches. Ended up Dremel grinding the gas block off.
His hair, Caleb, has more Loctite than the AR-15 has! He need Loctite for his hair! :)
Wilbur Robinson came to mind when I saw it.
LOL!
His shit is tight! I respect it.
Lazytown.
Hey now... that's obviously Rocksett.
great tips
I use a touch of blue loctite in my aero receivers' threaded pins. That's it. If I need to remove them, I could always break the bond with a drop of acetone but they break free pretty readily without it.
Great video
Rocksett on muzzle devices that use shims. Blue Loctite on handguard screws and optics mount screws.
Loctite also make a thread-locker that is purple, 222MS made for small screws 1/4" and smaller that is removable with hand tools if your afraid the blue would be too hard to remove.
There are other compounds that can be used to safely retain/ secure components-- there's a transparent orange compound (forget what it's called) that's safe for mixed metal connection points and threadings alongside polymer and metal screw connections, but proper torque is always the first and foremost thing you should do for proper retaining, an appropriate compound (and an appropriate amount applied) should only be used if things keep vibrating loose or get knocked loose and won't stay tight, and you don't want to over-tighten and damage threading components like the handle/ grip retainer screw or stake the castle nut. And about the statement "if it was needed the military would do it"-- actually, from time to time they do utilize thread locking compound, especially due to how worn our weapon systems can get with certain components. Our Armorers have to be adaptive (especially on deployment) when replacement/ new parts aren't readily available or take forever to come in after the order request has been submitted and the weapon systems have be kept in the fight.
I'm glad to see the Brownells crew are actually reading the comments!
I use red loctite on my gas block screws they never loosen up and the loctite doesn’t turn to powder, this is after 1000’s of rounds. I take my guns apart to see how well they are holding up since all 16 of my ARs are home assembled. I always have a hard time getting the gas block screws out and even broke a bit doing so. I usually have to heat them up as mentioned. You can do whatever works for you but loctite on the gas block screws works for me.
I always use blue Loctite on BUIS, optics and optic mounts, and steel screws into steel mounts of the handguard.
I've never had a need for loctite on a rifle. Scope mounts, maybe, but never on the gun itself.
samesies
Its not good for scope mounts either
Ryan Oliver Vlogs says who?
@@beekydogg me, I'm a gunsmith and a long distance shooter...
Ryan Oliver Vlogs I’m super happy for you. However I’m gonna follow the manufacturers directions, not some random guy on the internet. 🤘🏻
Very very good video!
Thanks for watching!
I really like your videos. Without an intervening coating such as Zinc Aluminum/Steel treads will form their own Loctite due to galvanic corrosion. I've traded many cases of beer to have steel bolts EDMed out Aluminum parts. Keep moisture out of the threads by coating them with an anti-seise with lots of free Zinc. Anodizing the Aluminum helps too, but, it won't work in threads.
Only place I’ve used a small bit of Locktite blue was on the the nuts and bolts for my handguard
The residue found on new screws is called patchlock
The plastic tips on shoelaces are called aglets.
Interesting, I've always used a copper based anti seize on muzzle devices . The anti seize will also allow you to attain proper torque spec and avoid damage to barrel nut and upper receiver. Never had a muzzle device come loose.
I used rocksett on my gas blocks I've never had one move or anything, put 1200 rds through it at a carbine class and it's still fine after getting red hot a few times
I use it on furniture screws and optics. Tried it on a muzzle device, no issues yet. Would try rocksett, but that's pretty expensive stuff.
I use Blue Permatex on the Iron sights and Red dot only. Yes i have had the screws loosen on them pretty quickly. I snug them tightly but as we all know you cannot put 60 pounds of torque on those itty bitty screws and nuts.
Aaaand just literally yesterday I used Loctite on my optic...
I feel like that is fine, optic fasteners tend to walk and loosen. I did the same with my red dot. Put one drop of blue just so it wouldn’t walk as bad and can break it with my hand if I need to take it off.
They are specifically talking about parts of the rifle itself, they didn’t cover accessories which do benefit from Loctite and many instructions call for it or have screws with some fastner already present.
Blue loctite for optic rings is fine.
CJ nooooooooooooooooo
I agree with Mike Van and others that the handguard screws usually need a little loctite unless they have some sort of detent that holds them in place like some aero precision handguards have now.
What about using loctite on screws for optics mounts? I know especially for my shotgun setup that has a red dot I make sure to put a healthy dose of blue loctite on the screws for my optics mount and then torque them to spec.
Great vid.
The guys on SilencerShop recommend high temp blue locktite on the muzzle. But they are also swapping muzzle devices fairly frequently and have said that they had to cut a few barrels due to rocksett. So there’s that
Got it. No crazy super glue on the muzzle
Could you do an episode on pro’s & con’s/myth vs facts about anti walk trigger/safety pins? Thanks
Good suggestion!
I put the anti walking pins in and used blue lock tight for the screws
The pins are supposed to rotate due to metal wear and galling.
Agreed.
Except for the barrel extension. Loctite 620 (NOT THREAD LOCKER) gets liberally applied to the outer surface, however i only do that on medium and long range intended builds. It's not supposed to be permanent, but i wouldn't do it if you intend on fooling with it after.
I sometimes use Blue LocTite on one side of trigger/hammer pins (depending on how loose they feel). While it's not necessary every time, tolerance slop occasionally dictates it's use...!!!
I had gas block set screws come loose after just two trips to the range, and I just about bent the hex key tightening them down. I just put some blue loctite on there and am hoping to not have the same issue again. I get the heat concerns, but it has to be better than nothing.
I use a little blue loctite on my light, foregrip, and a tad on the optic. Only things that might take a beating as extremities.
Torqued to spec of course.
will add one more area only - for ambi-selectors like a Colt M4/Colt Canada C8, a small dab of blue loctite on retaining screw for the right side selector is important. otherwise - not part of the AR but on it, is blue loctite on attachments like lights and sights and non-throw lever optics....as they will come loose when least expected. I have seen many surefire M600's come loose even when the thumbscrew was tightened with noticeable force using a screwdriver. and just to add - a little thread lock goes a long way...I prefer the sticks vs the liquid.
This weekend i decided to change the buffer tube on my old DPMS and I couldnt get the castle nut off at all. Im guessing they used red loctite. I tried heat and nothing would budge it. In the end used a dremel and was worried I may destroy the lower. Luckily I got the bloody thing off and installed a BCM buffer tube and butt stock. I plan to stake the new castle nut.
So I am about to build my Grendel so I watch everything I can find. One Vid told me to use loctite LB 8008 on the barrel nut because the parts are both steel and you dont want them to weld together with the intense heat of the barrel. I am glad I watched this BEFORE I put it together. Not my normal, I usually #%@$ it up, THEN read what I should have.
Thanks!
You want to put grease on the threads to keep them from seizing.
JP recommends red on the handguard nut which screws onto the upper receiver. It is alm on alm and they attribute their accuracy in part to red loctite, also their handguards are interchangeable so you never need to remove it. I destroyed an upper with loctite but I see their point I guess
I use blue on the selector, not sure why that wasn't mentioned. I also have a Magpul B.A.D. lever and highly recommend it there.