How to Change Front Brake Pads and Rotor Ford F-150 2004-2008
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This is a video tutorial on how to replace the front brake pads and rotor. I showed the passenger front but the driver's side is exactly the same.
Links:
Brake Pads: amzn.to/2zWSnUu
Brake Rotor: www.autozone.c...
How To Jack Up a Car: • How to Safely Jack and...
Torque Specs:
Caliper Bolts: 47 lb-ft
Brake Caliper Anchor Bolts: 148 lb-ft
Lug Nuts: 150 lb-ft
If you have any further interest please visit www.2carpros.com
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
Great video, very patient.
Thanks for watching!
I bought this for the pistons.
GallopMax Brake Caliper Press Tool Brake Caliper Compression Tool 360° Adjustable Ratcheting Brake Caliper Piston Spreader Tool with Double Caliper Hangers Brake Piston Compressor Tool Red. You can find it on the most used online retailer for $22. Works great, I just did the front brakes and rotor on my 2004 F150.
And you will need a torque wrench up to 300 ft/lbs for the spindle nut.
The 2wd has a rotorhub assembly on the front. His is 4wd
Thank you very clear on how to do it all!!! 😎😎💯💯💯
No problem 👍
Great video. Does anyone know WHY you need to pump the brakes slowly to engage the pads for the first time. First ten or so times I changed pads, I just hopped in and pumped away until they engaged (except for the one time I forgot entirely to do it and almost crashed backing out of my driveway... a sad and funny story). Never had a problem otherwise. Then I read or saw somewhere that you need to pump slowly. Is that to avoid sucking air into the system? Also, I do two things differently. I use the grease that sometimes comes with the upgraded pads on the glide area of the shiny retainer clips. I also use a bit of anti-seize compound on the mating surface between the wheel and rotor, especially with alloy wheels to ease removal in case I ever have to change a tire roadside. Finally, for my money, I now pay a bit more for the rust inhibiting rotors (all surfaces are painted except for the brake pad mating area.) They stay rust free so they are no muss no fuss on removal and the outer edge looks nice through the slots in your wheel (rather than all rusty). I don't know if this affects performance / cooling / warp resistance.
To make sure that the brakes work the first time you push them. Thanks for watching!
That is a different rotor than my truck uses.
2004 F150 XLT extended cab with ABS, 5.4L Triton engine and towing package. My rotor.
Detroit Axle - 2WD 6 Lugs Front Disc Brake Rotors + Brake Pads Replacement for 2004-2008 Ford F-150 Lincoln Mark LT - 4pc Set. $230 with tax and 2 spindle nuts. Total $281.94 free shipping.
Great video mate. Very clear and a relaxed pace
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! :)
@@2carpros 😅😮😮😮😢😮
@@2carpros 😅😮😮😮😢😮
What year truck is that? I have an 04 (new body) 2wd xlt and my lug bolts are a part of the rotor, so I need a 42mm socket and 10,000 ft lbs of torque to break em loose.
It is a 2005. Your lugs are a part of the rotor? I'm confused they really shouldn't be.
Ya brother i hear you I’m changing my brakes and rotors right now
My 08 has a one piece rotor/hub/wheel bearing. The spindle nut (36mm) is torqued to 295 Ft.Lbs. Bring your BIG breaker bar!
If your changing both front brakes. Do you wait till you have both done before pumping brake?
Yes. Thanks for watching!
Do you need to bleed the brakes when you push back the brake pistons?
Nope if you don't open the system. Thanks for watching!
The video you said was in the description wasnt I. The video:(
Open the bleeder valve or no?
Can anyone tell me if 2wd version front rotors are different to the 4wd version. I need 2wd but feeling confused. Same question regarding drop links. cheers in advance??
They shouldn't be different. Just make sure you get the correct stud count. Thanks for watching Mike!
The 2wd has a rotor hub assembly on the front. It’s one piece
Mine don't look like that
Because I bought the truck uuusseedd...haha
True lol Thanks for watching!
Good
Thanks for watching!
Your videos are awsome bro super detailed i really enjoy how paitent and honest you are not caring what haters might say about " oh your not using the right anti seize" fuck them your videos rock and i enjoy watching you work on trucks i wonder if you got a go pro on your head if maybe we can see closer to some of the stoff ur unbolting or replacing anyways thanks for your time for these videos helping noobies like myself save money from stupid stealerships
Hey thanks for watching!
Open the bleeder valve or no?
No need. Thanks for watching!