That was profoundly educational... As a younger person who is born into a world where you're meant to just buy a new anything when things break, i thought you needed a big factory in China to make or repair anything these days. But i learned here there's lots you can do with pieces of scrap metal, a vice, and a ball pein hammer. And I finally know what to use the round end of the hammer for 😅👍 Are you a fitter and turner? Where did you learn all this stuff before you had the internet?
Hi, thanks for your insight, I'm old enough tt have done real metalwork at school, and have had 50 years of fixing stuff, and sometimes getting it wrong. See my new book, Tales of Power, cheers
Thanks for this wonderful video. I managed to destroy a roller (poorly positioned in an Alaskan chainsaw mill). This gives me the insight I need to tackle it!
Thanks Andy really interesting to see your repair. Is it the height of the roller bearings that stop the two bar plates binding the tooth wheel when you tap the rivets down home?
Hi, the central disc on which the bearing run is slightly thicker than the sprocket and the bearings, so the sides of the nose clamp against that, cheers
Thanks Andy, I have been following you for a long time and have a similar view to life as you. I had to change my name to my radio callsign due to trolling. Im the guy with the small Wood in Nottinghamshire. Have a go at repair you have nothing to loose and everything to gain. Cheers.
Simon, thanks for that, yes I might be bale to drill the feed hole out. The steel is tough and the existing hole is the same width as the bar groove, maybe an extra parallel hole, or just better maintenance. These bars are mainly used on hardwoods and they get a really rough life compared to softwood use, cheers
Evening I had a go at similar , nose on bar of my 026 Stihl had locked up , the rivets are very hard metal, it suprised me as rivets are usually soft like the nail. Turns out it had nylon fishing line in there ,had made a nice nylon washer either side of the sprocket , didn't quite get back together as those rollers wish to escape and hide,and I had a nr new spare bar so used that . I have the sprocket minus one roller. I used paper to try to reassemble , may have stole the idea from one of our vids I forget . Interesting video, don't know if it's my end Andy but your videos are a bit blurry? All the best 👍
Tom, I always reference external sources of info, it's only fair. This method came from experiment, trial and error, it's the only logical way to get the nose back into the bar. As to quality, I upgraded my cameras 6 months ago, so the quality issue is probably at your feed or equipment, cheers
Ade, yes I think you are right on the lubrication front, there's so many things that can cause a problem, increasing the flow may help, but then that's a pollution problem, cheers
@@bootsowen Owen, I cleaned then out with a bit of bicycle spoke, they work is a difficult environment especially on hardwoods. I'm thinking along the lines thornwarbler suggested, but it's tough steel that work hardens. Don't want to leave a snapped off drill in there, cheers
That was profoundly educational... As a younger person who is born into a world where you're meant to just buy a new anything when things break, i thought you needed a big factory in China to make or repair anything these days.
But i learned here there's lots you can do with pieces of scrap metal, a vice, and a ball pein hammer. And I finally know what to use the round end of the hammer for 😅👍
Are you a fitter and turner? Where did you learn all this stuff before you had the internet?
Hi, thanks for your insight, I'm old enough tt have done real metalwork at school, and have had 50 years of fixing stuff, and sometimes getting it wrong. See my new book, Tales of Power, cheers
Thanks for putting your knowledge out there. The more these kinds of things get shared and recorded, the less likely we are to lose it
@@XTCBiscuit Exactly, how many times do we hear " but the skills have been lost" cheers
Thanks for this wonderful video. I managed to destroy a roller (poorly positioned in an Alaskan chainsaw mill). This gives me the insight I need to tackle it!
in later attempts I counter sunk the rivet holes in the bar and this helped to get a smooth finish, cheers
I would have liked to see the bar tested after all of your work.
Cool video. 😎👍
Yep, but not so easy with a harvester bar, cain't just pop round to the woodpile, cheers
love Your video
Cheers
Great stuff well presented .
Frank, thanks for the comment, hope you've subscribed, cheers
Interesting as always Sir.
Thanks for the comment, cheers
Thanks Andy really interesting to see your repair. Is it the height of the roller bearings that stop the two bar plates binding the tooth wheel when you tap the rivets down home?
Hi, the central disc on which the bearing run is slightly thicker than the sprocket and the bearings, so the sides of the nose clamp against that, cheers
Thanks Andy, I have been following you for a long time and have a similar view to life as you. I had to change my name to my radio callsign due to trolling. Im the guy with the small Wood in Nottinghamshire. Have a go at repair you have nothing to loose and everything to gain. Cheers.
And why go to all that effort!? Because you can whilst extending the life of an item. Great video Andy
Matt, spot on, you've hit the nail on the head, because we can and it consolidates skills, cheers
Great result !. Could you ease the oilways with a slightly larger diameter drill to encourage better lubrication flow to the tip?
Simon, thanks for that, yes I might be bale to drill the feed hole out. The steel is tough and the existing hole is the same width as the bar groove, maybe an extra parallel hole, or just better maintenance. These bars are mainly used on hardwoods and they get a really rough life compared to softwood use, cheers
chainsaws have seen some work, interesting to see the nose bearing.
They are the very devil to deal with, cheers
Evening
I had a go at similar , nose on bar of my 026 Stihl had locked up , the rivets are very hard metal, it suprised me as rivets are usually soft like the nail. Turns out it had nylon fishing line in there ,had made a nice nylon washer either side of the sprocket , didn't quite get back together as those rollers wish to escape and hide,and I had a nr new spare bar so used that . I have the sprocket minus one roller.
I used paper to try to reassemble , may have stole the idea from one of our vids I forget .
Interesting video, don't know if it's my end Andy but your videos are a bit blurry?
All the best 👍
Tom, I always reference external sources of info, it's only fair. This method came from experiment, trial and error, it's the only logical way to get the nose back into the bar. As to quality, I upgraded my cameras 6 months ago, so the quality issue is probably at your feed or equipment, cheers
Practice makes perfect..
Yes, it takes some time to get the method right, cheers
Maybe cut the plastic in half before you rest it down so could easily be pulled out. I don't no just a thought. Cheers Andy brilliant skills
Pat, now there's an idea worth working around, cheers
Learned something today !
That's grand, cheers
Ingenuity at its finest.
I'd say the bar tip was damaged from heat with the root cause being lack of oil.
Ade, yes I think you are right on the lubrication front, there's so many things that can cause a problem, increasing the flow may help, but then that's a pollution problem, cheers
if it is due to lack of oil is it worth running some compressed air in the hole to see if it makes its way?
@@bootsowen Owen, I cleaned then out with a bit of bicycle spoke, they work is a difficult environment especially on hardwoods. I'm thinking along the lines thornwarbler suggested, but it's tough steel that work hardens. Don't want to leave a snapped off drill in there, cheers
Thanks
Cheers, hope you have subscribed.